"i think we are just rushing this" thats the best thing you said , STOP saying we will do a test ride etc etc , ok heres what you need to do 1 : fueling get the tank above the carbs as it would be mounted like on the bike frame, also new spark plugs. 2: get the carbs airboxed up , you had the original airbox so use it buddy !!! 3: alloy does not weld to steel , you need a steel hub for the steel sprocket. 4: Clutch have said many times stop with the foot clutch use a hand clutch. 5: Brakes that little brake caliper for pit bikes aint gonna work , use the bikes original brake caliper and lines 6: STOP RUSHING Migs document what your doing forget test drives etc etc , just get it running propper , not spluttery , it must idle , it must go throw idle -1/4 throttle - half throttle - 3/4 throttle - full open throttle without bogging and hit its max rpm . :7 re-check everything twice / triple . 8: build a battery tray and mount it. 9: recheck everything again 10: think about a test drive .
he can gravity feed but sometimes these motors need an extra help with a vaccum petcock ( vaccum fuel pump) as the carbs can drink fuel fairly fast . the petcock works via a vaccum pulse thats created by air being drawn into the engine usually from the carb manifold , or on two stroked via a crankcase nipple , as the valve opens it creates a rush of air/fuel into the cylinder, this inturn creates a vaccum in the petcock vac hose and opens the petcock , when the valve closes a drop in vaccum allows the petcock valve to close, this happens very quick when the motor idles or is at high rpm and it creates a pumping like motion in the petcock forcing fuel into the carb/s . on some twostrokes the vaccum petcock is used to just open the valve to allow fuel to flow via gravity into smaller carbs they tend not to need the bowl to be refilled very fast ( 50cc / 125cc ) , but on a 750 your feeding four carb bowls 224/7 so they need extra help sometimes .
Hey man it's fine, take your time with it to get it running properly. Don't think you have to rush anything for the viewers. Take your time, we know you'll get it running sweet :)
The clutch cable it gonna be different from your hand to your foot I did a build like this in a dune buggy same thing was happening just got a the biggest a brake cable from gopowersports and its been working great ever since was throwing in my 2 cents lol
Fuck the gearbox after the output shaft on the engine, too many points to fail, try your hardest to directly chain the output sprocket to the drive axle sprocket
They are called pulse pumps ...;) for next time. And I think that little hose you blocked of is what that pulse pump hooks too I do beleive.. also would like to add I love this build I myself am getting ready to use that exact motor in a golf cart build of my own. I am so glad you are way ahead of me so I can see the week spots and strong spots of your build. Another words I'm learning from your build of what works and what won't. Thank you
My guess is the throw on your clutch pedal is too long. Meaning when you push with your foot you are pushing too far past available travel, thus snapping the cable.
the problem you're having with that pump is it's a pulse pump. it will NOT work on steady vacuum pressure. Use a T fitting with the electric pump to bleed off extra pressure back to the tank. that is your best option. And just so you know it is IMPOSSIBLE to weld aluminum to steel.
@@benjaminramos2455 just so you know I am a custom car builder and metal fabricator. my welding skills are not to bad if I do say so myself. so I know a little bit about something something. lol
You can use the clutch Handel off the motor cycle and cable drill a hole in the side of it mount it next to the seat use a long rod to go to the shifter for the movement of the gears just squeeze handle to engage the clutch pull back twice for first gear and bump forward for second skip neutral one time then third and so forth
Just get a fuel tank and put it higher than the carbs, you don’t really need a fuel pump for carbed bikes. Keep it gravity fed and don’t use a paper filter with it. Best of luck with the build
Put the clutch on a bar that shifts the gears as well so you don’t have to worry about the foot pedal. It would be hooked up just like the motorcycle but you have it on an upright bar
The original clutch cable is only for a small movement of the fingers while on the bike, now you are using your foot and a larger movement, you need to kinda gear the distance down so your large movement translates to a small distance on the clutch lever, also I’d definitely use a thicker cable.👍
Dude! Stop rushin! You shouldnt make promises that lead you to half-assing everything and causing more problems. I feel like you need to really sit down, plan everything out, and do a bunch of research to lead you in the right direction. I think it’s honorable to learn from the school of hard knocks, but at some point you’re really working against yourself. Plan your work, work to plan, and you’ll succeed. Good luck man.
READ THIS COMMENT.. HI MIGS.. So if you go to a bicycle shop you can get costomizable cables. And they have a barrel nut to replace the one that keeps breaking. It has a little screw in it that clamps to the cable and locks it in place.. check it out. Clutch cable solved
If a fuel pump is too much use as fuel regulator. My dad uses one on his 67 wagoneer because the original mechanical fuel pump has about 5 psi in the fuel line and the electric one has 15. It was forcing the float valve open so the regulator fixed that
Dirt Moto sorry but u are wrong. Do research. US Navy DDG's are steel hauls and aluminum super structures that are welded together. It can be done but not normal for the average welder or smartest thing for someone to do
I know you want a foot operated clutch but in my opinion a hand lever mounted to the gear shift would be a better set up.keep up the good work migs you will get there.and if you want the foot clutch go for it.
Try the split sprocket and instead of buying a new clutch cable get a barrel nut and try it on one of the broken ones I had a build going awhile back with a on seater frame yard cart and my built 300ex that the rear end blew out of I had the same problem with the clutch cable and I just used a barrel nut
Mikunni has a twin carb set up for your engine. That should work well. Idea: get a hydraulic clutch master cylinder and a slave cylinder and make the clutch work instead of a cable snapping all the time.
Maybe get one of those really cheap fuel pumps from the parts store that pump 5 psi max, then get a fuel pressure regulator to go along with it. IIRC they can be regulated down to 1 psi. Or you could just do a bypass system if you have a place to return the fuel to the tank. Or just put the tank above the engine/carbs... P.S. The vacuum pump could fail and fill your crankcase with fuel and ruin your engine.
Get a set of header clamps and copper crush gaskets ..their are two half pipe pieces that fit on the outside of the header pipe..and again you're need an electric fan your seat blocks the airflow and you can damage your engine ..
When he said drill a hole in the carb boot I was like oh no he’s just about to fuck everything up. We all said it from beginning this build is Gona b a mess the way ur doing things. I guess u learned the hard way
your old fuel pump is a pulse pump, not a vacuum pump.. it needs to hook up to crank case pressure and not vacuum and it will work..Vacuum will not let diaphragm move in and out like the pulse the crank case provides.. Good Luck
Use the motorcycle clutch & clutch cable just mount it on the jocky shifter that you put in and use that for a while and don't rush bro just take your time and you will figure it all out
those carbs can only handle maybe 2psi fuel pressure, i would run an electric pump, the vacuum pulse pumps will just be another issue, there are other youtubers who just built a cart with a 750, carsandcameras, check out their build, they dumped the stock carbs, built an intake, they hit 85mph, i just want to go out and get one of these motors again and do a youtube on how to make it run lol
Make your own clutch cable. Watch Cars and cameras they just they're just building a cart with a 750 Honda and they went to the same issues you're going through one thing was spark plugs and I'm almost positive they ended up going with like Mikuni carburetors on it.
Instead of literally throwing the whole bike together just for a test drive, do it the right way the first time. Mount your gauges, mount the fuel pump etc. Your taking 5 steps forward, but having to go back 10 steps to fix all the Zip ties and gorilla glue mounts. Do it the right way first.
You need to check out carsandcameras they have a similar build and you may get a lot of good ideas on how to build an airbox, shifting cables, and etc.
Im guessing thats a diaphram pump meaning that it needs air pressure and air vacum to pump which is why its hooked to the crank case vent because that provides vacum and suction very rapidly which is what it needs so if you just hook suction (or preasure) to it it wont work however you may have broken the diaphram by hooking its up to that pump Good video though
Make It Offroad I will disagree. You can weld them together. The DDG's in the US Navy have a steel haul and a aluminum super structure. They are welded together. So research before you tell him he is wrong.
Seriously Best Build on TH-cam!!!!!! Oi you Legend thanks for the awesome content But when you start playing with clutch cables and lengthening them they get really hard to Engage/Pull I found Bigger\ Rigid cables makes it much easier!!!.. 💯👋🇦🇺
Oh and your sprocket set up needs to be way more rigid the same as the engine like as much bracing as you can get or you’ll just chuck chains bro.... / damage sprockets 😢
Man you are a Legend! I’m just happy to be here and seriously it’s absolutely awesome watching you learn how to do what you do best aye please keep up this bomb content!!!! I just have 1 question?... Did you end up getting them long cylinder bolts replaced with real ones, or?
Just use the electric fuel pump and if you need to dial down the f/p just get a regulator and set it to 5-7 psi that should work if to much drop to 3-4 psi but it should work better then a pulse pump but I dunno I'm just a 12 year old kid just tinkering like you.
Yes it is a pump It is a vacuum pulse pump that uses a diaphragm and check valves to pump fuel They are used on most all snowmobiles and some yard equipment A vacume operated petcock is quite different , but will usually have a selector switch and a prime settting to allow the full flow of fuel
Its not possible to weld steel to alum for the use that you want it will not be strong enough to take the tourque you need you could use a bimetal strip with is half alum have steel that is made thru some over my head way get rid of the alum and use all steel
"i think we are just rushing this" thats the best thing you said , STOP saying we will do a test ride etc etc ,
ok heres what you need to do
1 : fueling get the tank above the carbs as it would be mounted like on the bike frame, also new spark plugs.
2: get the carbs airboxed up , you had the original airbox so use it buddy !!!
3: alloy does not weld to steel , you need a steel hub for the steel sprocket.
4: Clutch have said many times stop with the foot clutch use a hand clutch.
5: Brakes that little brake caliper for pit bikes aint gonna work , use the bikes original brake caliper and lines
6: STOP RUSHING Migs document what your doing forget test drives etc etc , just get it running propper , not spluttery , it must idle , it must go throw idle -1/4 throttle - half throttle - 3/4 throttle - full open throttle without bogging and hit its max rpm .
:7 re-check everything twice / triple .
8: build a battery tray and mount it.
9: recheck everything again
10: think about a test drive .
It didn't have an air box
I agree with these 10 steps
I highly agree
Yep slow things down and just throw some AirPods on that will work fine and big thick brake cable should work for the clutch
Thanks for the list man, I definitely needed this!
Put the motorcycle clutch lever on a rod and operate the clutch with your hand for the moment until you figure the whole foot clutch deal
Dont let them rush you get what you need done first and be safe
You can gravity feed the fuel just get the tank higher than the motor
he can gravity feed but sometimes these motors need an extra help with a vaccum petcock ( vaccum fuel pump) as the carbs can drink fuel fairly fast . the petcock works via a vaccum pulse thats created by air being drawn into the engine usually from the carb manifold , or on two stroked via a crankcase nipple , as the valve opens it creates a rush of air/fuel into the cylinder, this inturn creates a vaccum in the petcock vac hose and opens the petcock , when the valve closes a drop in vaccum allows the petcock valve to close, this happens very quick when the motor idles or is at high rpm and it creates a pumping like motion in the petcock forcing fuel into the carb/s .
on some twostrokes the vaccum petcock is used to just open the valve to allow fuel to flow via gravity into smaller carbs they tend not to need the bowl to be refilled very fast ( 50cc / 125cc ) , but on a 750 your feeding four carb bowls 224/7 so they need extra help sometimes .
Hey man it's fine, take your time with it to get it running properly. Don't think you have to rush anything for the viewers. Take your time, we know you'll get it running sweet :)
I understand, builds are unpredictable, and just like myself you are learning as you go. Keep up the good work Migs!
Your not a real mechanic if that never happens to you.
Thanks for the support man! I appreciate it!
The clutch cable it gonna be different from your hand to your foot I did a build like this in a dune buggy same thing was happening just got a the biggest a brake cable from gopowersports and its been working great ever since was throwing in my 2 cents lol
Stop using clutch cables and make a linkage rod that runs from the pedal the the shifter. It will be smoother and no more cable to mess with.
Fuck the gearbox after the output shaft on the engine, too many points to fail, try your hardest to directly chain the output sprocket to the drive axle sprocket
They are called pulse pumps ...;) for next time. And I think that little hose you blocked of is what that pulse pump hooks too I do beleive.. also would like to add I love this build I myself am getting ready to use that exact motor in a golf cart build of my own. I am so glad you are way ahead of me so I can see the week spots and strong spots of your build. Another words I'm learning from your build of what works and what won't. Thank you
Dont put the coils and fuel pump beside eachother, because if you get a leak it could catch fire
My guess is the throw on your clutch pedal is too long. Meaning when you push with your foot you are pushing too far past available travel, thus snapping the cable.
Put a stop bolt on the clutch pedal so that when you push the clutch pedal in you can't push it to far and snap the cable
the problem you're having with that pump is it's a pulse pump. it will NOT work on steady vacuum pressure. Use a T fitting with the electric pump to bleed off extra pressure back to the tank. that is your best option.
And just so you know it is IMPOSSIBLE to weld aluminum to steel.
Its not
I have to melt the steel and aluminum together it just takes a while
@@benjaminramos2455 won't work. steal and aluminum melt at 2 totally different temperatures.
@@benjaminramos2455 just so you know I am a custom car builder and metal fabricator. my welding skills are not to bad if I do say so myself. so I know a little bit about something something. lol
You can use the clutch Handel off the motor cycle and cable drill a hole in the side of it mount it next to the seat use a long rod to go to the shifter for the movement of the gears just squeeze handle to engage the clutch pull back twice for first gear and bump forward for second skip neutral one time then third and so forth
Just get a fuel tank and put it higher than the carbs, you don’t really need a fuel pump for carbed bikes. Keep it gravity fed and don’t use a paper filter with it. Best of luck with the build
Ur doing a great job Migs, keep it up !!
Thanks!!
Put the clutch on a bar that shifts the gears as well so you don’t have to worry about the foot pedal. It would be hooked up just like the motorcycle but you have it on an upright bar
In first time builds, mistakes are gonna happen, every problem has a great solution!!!!# Keep up the good work!!!!!
21st is the day it works. I will get my 1st cataract removed in the morning. Good Luck!
You can check the spark plugs. You could also switch it to dual Mikuni carbs with pvc
I don't know who your friend is or how great of a welder he is, but nobody can weld a steel sprocket to aluminum
The original clutch cable is only for a small movement of the fingers while on the bike, now you are using your foot and a larger movement, you need to kinda gear the distance down so your large movement translates to a small distance on the clutch lever, also I’d definitely use a thicker cable.👍
Dude! Stop rushin! You shouldnt make promises that lead you to half-assing everything and causing more problems. I feel like you need to really sit down, plan everything out, and do a bunch of research to lead you in the right direction. I think it’s honorable to learn from the school of hard knocks, but at some point you’re really working against yourself. Plan your work, work to plan, and you’ll succeed. Good luck man.
Migs dont get frustrated take your time we have faith in you
READ THIS COMMENT.. HI MIGS.. So if you go to a bicycle shop you can get costomizable cables. And they have a barrel nut to replace the one that keeps breaking. It has a little screw in it that clamps to the cable and locks it in place.. check it out. Clutch cable solved
If a fuel pump is too much use as fuel regulator. My dad uses one on his 67 wagoneer because the original mechanical fuel pump has about 5 psi in the fuel line and the electric one has 15. It was forcing the float valve open so the regulator fixed that
You can’t weld aluminum to steel regardless. That is physically not possible.
I mean follow instruction..you will not make mistakes
Dirt Moto sorry but u are wrong. Do research. US Navy DDG's are steel hauls and aluminum super structures that are welded together. It can be done but not normal for the average welder or smartest thing for someone to do
I love these videos and I’m just saying take your time it’s better to be safe then sorry
I know you want a foot operated clutch but in my opinion a hand lever mounted to the gear shift would be a better set up.keep up the good work migs you will get there.and if you want the foot clutch go for it.
Try the split sprocket and instead of buying a new clutch cable get a barrel nut and try it on one of the broken ones I had a build going awhile back with a on seater frame yard cart and my built 300ex that the rear end blew out of I had the same problem with the clutch cable and I just used a barrel nut
Clutches are probably stuck together. See if you can move the clutch lever on the motor with vise grips or something.
It's a gravity flow engine the fuel pump is for the little up push that's why the gas tank is above the engine
Mikunni has a twin carb set up for your engine. That should work well. Idea: get a hydraulic clutch master cylinder and a slave cylinder and make the clutch work instead of a cable snapping all the time.
On another show with a Honda 750 thy used a gravity fed tank no pump
Maybe get one of those really cheap fuel pumps from the parts store that pump 5 psi max, then get a fuel pressure regulator to go along with it. IIRC they can be regulated down to 1 psi. Or you could just do a bypass system if you have a place to return the fuel to the tank. Or just put the tank above the engine/carbs...
P.S. The vacuum pump could fail and fill your crankcase with fuel and ruin your engine.
Love your vids
You could possibly use a brake cable or throttle cable they might be alittle thicker and stronger but I don't know if there's a difference
U was studdering hard dawg 😂 love ur channel I watch all ur videos
Haha I don’t know what happened there 😂 but thanks man!
Get a set of header clamps and copper crush gaskets ..their are two half pipe pieces that fit on the outside of the header pipe..and again you're need an electric fan your seat blocks the airflow and you can damage your engine ..
21:10
Lighting is good. You look great 😁
Take your time, do it right. Don't want to end up with a death trap. We'll be here waiting
Boom I'm hear 45th
When he said drill a hole in the carb boot I was like oh no he’s just about to fuck everything up. We all said it from beginning this build is Gona b a mess the way ur doing things. I guess u learned the hard way
It's a learning process, at least your not throwing your hands up and walking away. Your doing great.
What if you mount the glass tank above the motor for gravity feed fuel like a motorcycle
Man this is like the best build video series ive ever seen, keep it up cuz i don’t even think u got in the closet for this channel
The only way to learn is from your own mistakes.
Wrong... Study physics.. Know how your world works... This kid is lost.. History repeats itself
@@daverayburn013 you must be fun at parties, 👍
Unfortunately this kid wired the house and every one at the party died in a horrible fire but me
@@daverayburn013 🤣🤣🤣
@@daverayburn013 okay 🦟
I'm not first.
I'm not last.
But one thing I know.
I sure clicked fast.
Put a b bicycle break cable holder there's a bolt with a hole in it put it on where your cable through it Titan it down cable won't move
Cannot weld aluminum to steel, if your friend can do that then he is going to be an over night millionaire, drill and bolt the sprocket on
man dont worry about gettin it done for next video,its done when its done!!
your old fuel pump is a pulse pump, not a vacuum pump.. it needs to hook up to crank case pressure and not vacuum and it will work..Vacuum will not let diaphragm move in and out like the pulse the crank case provides.. Good Luck
So lost.. You need a pulse for that pump to work
You should make the linkage from rods and pivots that way it won't bind and snap
i got a very sweet engine for that kart it's a 99 Honda magna VF 750c
I had a vfr 750 that turned into a doner engine for my buddies reverse trike, great swap for karts being a v4.
Just use the bikes clutch cable as far as it will go then a rod to connect it the rest of the way to the pedal...
Good job migs this was a tricky build
You gonna need a fan to cool that air cooled motor. Might be hard with what ever you exhaust is gonna be
Use the motorcycle clutch & clutch cable just mount it on the jocky shifter that you put in and use that for a while and don't rush bro just take your time and you will figure it all out
Is that a rupp tt500 @16:30 in the background? If so lmk im looking for another tt500 to mess around with
keep a fire extinguisher handy as all times bro.MUCH RESPECT MOTO MIGS
Why is there a hole in the top cap of your number 2 carb?
Check out cars and cameras vids. I think it was spark plugs that solved all their problems with this engine
All you needed for the big electric fuel pump you had was a fuel pressure regulator.
Your doing great..just don't make promises people like your videos ..just say I'm going to try to get it running.. love your videos on
Glad you got that fixed and that u are getting a new clutch line
Maybe Go PowerSports can help you on the axel and sprocket problems
@motomigs it's called a mini cup. 1/4 scale
those carbs can only handle maybe 2psi fuel pressure, i would run an electric pump, the vacuum pulse pumps will just be another issue, there are other youtubers who just built a cart with a 750, carsandcameras, check out their build, they dumped the stock carbs, built an intake, they hit 85mph, i just want to go out and get one of these motors again and do a youtube on how to make it run lol
Are you welding with gas or flux core?
Flux
I use the same for my builds on my channel
froggers garage ty
Yay
Make your own clutch cable. Watch Cars and cameras they just they're just building a cart with a 750 Honda and they went to the same issues you're going through one thing was spark plugs and I'm almost positive they ended up going with like Mikuni carburetors on it.
Hey guys! Chris fix here
FINALLY A TEST DRIVE
How is that engine getting its cooling?
less talking and more making it work
people been telling him that for ages he just doesn't listen
@@TheDonnyfrerejean he voice gets on my nerves some times just going on and on.
@Lance Washington I have what u his butt buddy
@Lance Washington stop crying baby Baby Huey
Instead of literally throwing the whole bike together just for a test drive, do it the right way the first time. Mount your gauges, mount the fuel pump etc. Your taking 5 steps forward, but having to go back 10 steps to fix all the Zip ties and gorilla glue mounts. Do it the right way first.
Once u get the feul pump right and all the bugs out all hell well break loese lol u got it buddy
You need to check out carsandcameras they have a similar build and you may get a lot of good ideas on how to build an airbox, shifting cables, and etc.
Jason Cresong not really cause they had one that was already running he had to rebuild this motor
Yes but they had to do the clutch, shift lever, carburetors, airbox, and more.
Im guessing thats a diaphram pump meaning that it needs air pressure and air vacum to pump which is why its hooked to the crank case vent because that provides vacum and suction very rapidly which is what it needs so if you just hook suction (or preasure) to it it wont work however you may have broken the diaphram by hooking its up to that pump
Good video though
Hey bro most people mount the fuel cell higher to help the pump not have to pull up down and up again
Finally
You can't weld steel to aluminum
Make It Offroad I will disagree. You can weld them together. The DDG's in the US Navy have a steel haul and a aluminum super structure. They are welded together. So research before you tell him he is wrong.
all you have to do is get a cheap fuel pump 12v that you can hook up to the start system
Put some adjustable stopper on you clutch pedal
U should've clend up the engine like take apart sand and paint
You don't need a fuel pump when you put the fuel cell higher than the carburetors
Your carburetors are gravity-fed and for the clutch problem app for Market hydraulics kit
Weld the end of the clutch cable to the peddle
Seriously Best Build on TH-cam!!!!!!
Oi you Legend thanks for the awesome content But when you start playing with clutch cables and lengthening them they get really hard to Engage/Pull I found Bigger\ Rigid cables makes it much easier!!!.. 💯👋🇦🇺
Oh and your sprocket set up needs to be way more rigid the same as the engine like as much bracing as you can get or you’ll just chuck chains bro....
/ damage sprockets 😢
Oh and you need a steel sprocket I think
Thanks for the tips man, I appreciate the support! 👍🏻
Man you are a Legend! I’m just happy to be here and seriously it’s absolutely awesome watching you learn how to do what you do best aye please keep up this bomb content!!!!
I just have 1 question?...
Did you end up getting them long cylinder bolts replaced with real ones, or?
Just use the electric fuel pump and if you need to dial down the f/p just get a regulator and set it to 5-7 psi that should work if to much drop to 3-4 psi but it should work better then a pulse pump but I dunno I'm just a 12 year old kid just tinkering like you.
The exhaust pipes are to short make them go under the motor you will. Like the sound
its not a pump its a vacum valve to open gas line for carb ant not flood engine whe carb floats get stuck
That's what I thought, isn't it a vacuum activated petcock?
Yes it is a pump
It is a vacuum pulse pump that uses a diaphragm and check valves to pump fuel
They are used on most all snowmobiles and some yard equipment
A vacume operated petcock is quite different , but will usually have a selector switch and a prime settting to allow the full flow of fuel
Test to see if that clutch even works by rotating it manually with ur hand or tool. U might be routing that clutch cables in the wrong direction 🤷🏻♂️
Make a side exhaust for this engine too
ha ha ha i knew that would break and I wait for the next thing to break on it because there will be more. that is all :D
Like I said the first drive will be it’s last lol
Those carbs are gravity fed from the tank and the float bowls regulate the fuel. Du! Look at the bike! Where's the fuel pump instine!🤦🏽♂️😂
What is the sound effect called on 9:45
Its not possible to weld steel to alum for the use that you want it will not be strong enough to take the tourque you need you could use a bimetal strip with is half alum have steel that is made thru some over my head way get rid of the alum and use all steel
I've heard "half scale Nascar" so many times now it doesn't sound like real words