457 Mostly Around Power for Projects. And More
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- A typical mailbag video with some explanation and experiments. Because it was too long for one, a part two will follow next week.
My second channel: / hb9blawireless
Links:
PD cables: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dmg...
Baseus PD Power Supply: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFo...
Baseus PD Battery: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCR...
Heat Shrink Tube f. Brother: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdF...
Risc-V board: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
100A DC solid state relay: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDi...
Heat sink: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcY...
AC solid-state relay: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBL...
LiFePo4 European store: www.aliexpress.com/store/1102...
LiFePo4 Charger: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnC...
MHP30 Hot plate: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBx... (new supplier)
Chapters:
00:00:00 Intro
00:00:29 PD cables for 9 and 12V
00:03:22 Printable Heat shrink tubes
00:03:58 Risc-V board
00:05:57 DC 100A solid-state relay including explanations
00:11:47 Home-made 7kW LiFePo4 Battery incl. accessories
00:12:27 300Ah LiFePo4 Battery
00:13:22 MHP30 Mini Hotplate
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I was hoping the video would last 1 week
:-)
Again: Well done, Andreas. You anticipate the questions one would have and give the answers right away.
Thank you for your kind words!
Mailbags are one of my favourite videos on your channel - you always provide more information about the items and there is a lot to learn. Thank you for sharing and I am looking forward to part 2
Glad you like them!
Thank You Andreas, very much, presenting direct solutions labelled correctly saves much of our problem solving time.
I agree!
The Fotek SSR are available for DC voltage too with same exact shape as the AC. It comes with either 40A to 100A model with voltage rating of 5V to 60V. It really usefull if you cannot handle the clicking noises of mechanical relay.
I did not know that Fotek had them too. Thanks! I have used a Fotek AC relay for the last few years to switch all devices connected to the PC off if I do not use the PC.
@@AndreasSpiess Yeah, the fact that you need to squint on the label to notice the difference haha. Fotek really need to color coded between AC and DC!
I can't stand the clicking noise of relays in modern electronics, it feels out of place.
Do you know if the DC variant can switch an AC load as well? Maybe it can but is less efficient?
Fascenating as allways! I love the mail delivery episodes! I'we seen alot of these cloth ironing reassembled into desoldering /reflow hotplate projects. Theres so much great stuff on this channel!!! -I am still moving slow but steady thorugh trying to build a speed measuring radar unit with the MH-ET microwave sensor....
I hope your project with the MH-ET will be successful!
@@AndreasSpiess Thank you! Im looking forward to it! I'll make shure documenting the progress 😎👍
your mailbag vids are always VERY useful - many thanks
Glad you like them!
Thanks Andreas, them PD cables are very helpful. I had bought external PD request boards just to play with them but a cable is a much neater solution.
Same here. When I saw the cables, I thought it is a much better idea...
I've had the MHP30 hot plate for about a year. It's not an everyday tool, but has been extremely useful for reworking populated PCBs, especially 4+ layer boards with inner ground planes. Sometimes I'll dial it's temperature up high enough to desolder the desired component, especially if that component has an exposed pad underneath that is soldered to the board and no sensitive components nearby. Other times I'll set it to 100 degrees C and warm the board from below for a few minutes before using hot air on the top side, making the removal quick and easy. I agree that it is somewhat expensive, but it is very well made.
A good combination with the hot air gun, I agree!
My takeaway product has to be the heatshrink. Looks great for labelling cable length
I agree!
I agree, is there a recommended printer for the heatshrink printer?
@@mad-kiwi I use the P700. The small ones seem not to work because they cannot print in mirror writing (needed for the tubes)
Wow those power delivery cables are nuts, thanks for sharing. I might actually consider getting one of those bigger charging blocks, as it could also charge my laptop with usb-c
They are also awesome for Routers. 12V in. Done.
The only downside is that Phone Chargers are not made to run 24/7
@@Haldi4803 Yes but I was thinking more about those bigger bricks made for laptops. Also this could work with one of those nice high watt usb-c soldering irons
Most of the USB-C PD chargers have quite high power ratings (as ZeusBeer mentioned). So they should easily support a few watts 24/7.
Nice grab bag of things. Looking forward to more next week...
:-)
Thankyou for the review. I found the SSR info informative.
Please read also other comments about these products. It seems that it is important that you do not use them up to the specification and add a heatsink.
Good to know about the AC relay not switching off in DC conditions!
Absolutely!
Indeed, it was a while that you did a mailbag and what a nice one it is. The USB PD cables are awesome ! Not to mention the LiFePo4 cells... I'm really looking out to see your project with these.
So far I did not plan i full video for the Lifepo battery. There are plenty of them on TH-cam. But it for sure will be part of the "Remote Station" videos on my HB9BLA channel.
That Risc-V board is from WCH. The ones who make the CH340 chips that have replaced the fake FTDI chips in so many Chinese boards.
The specs of the board aren't very impressive at 144 MHz, 256 KB of flash and 64 KB of RAM but having a debugger included is pretty cool
Unfortunately, the SW support was not good. So I never used it :-(
Great video as usual but the audio is super choppy. Feels like I‘m having a stroke
Strange. Nobody else mentioned it so far.
Another inspirational presentation.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@AndreasSpiess
Not only do I enjoy your style, the 'toys' you've made, and the 'over the top' wire straightening with your motorbike, I found you Solar Panel installation with your neighbors, most interesting. With the price of power expected to continue to rise (www.abc.net.au/news/2022-05-26/benchmark-power-prices-electricity-bills-to-soar-australia/101098128), your play with home power generation, is likely to become a good investment. Truly a 'practical' and applicable to almost everyone, expose.
Also, your weather balloon chasing and radiosonde recovery, was fun to watch. Something I hope to emulate in the (near) future.
Cheers Andreas!
..._ _._ _.... ._ .__ _._ __... ...__
I use one of those tiny hotplates at work all of the time for repairs or changing SMD ICs, especially those with a big ground plane on the bottom. I 3D printed a couple of nesting simple boxes the same height as the heater and about 12 CM square, so I could place the heater inside and prop a PCB on top so it was supported and I could place the heater under the appropriate chip. Very useful, reasonably quick heating as well. Has made reworking boards a lot easier! And, as you say, it's a little jewel. Very nice tool. Thanks for a neat video! Just purchased a brand new surplus EV battery 'block' with 20 of the CATL 280AH LiFe batteries to back up the house for a few days when we lose power. A great deal from Battery Hookup here in the US, especially when the 340lb pallet is shipped (in the 48 states) for free, truck freight. Getting it up my 43 steps was a lot of fun, but it'll be a great replacement for my existing cobbled up Li-ion scooter battery powered solution. Still saved me a lot of misery this last winter...:) But with that bigger LiFe pack, i'll get several days of power with less load restriction. And less volatile batteries about.. Setting up a 48V system shortly. Looking forward to part two! Stay safe. Stu
So you do not use a lot of energy! Our 10kWh battery only lasts for one day...
@@AndreasSpiess Very true. All my lighting is dimmed LED, the current 'emergency/UPS' backup power setup includes all lighting, computer/50"4k TV/monitor (The two power pigs, maybe 220 watt total) all the cable/router/pico cell site/NVR and 5 cameras, CPAP and electric blanket (as needed) All that is currently on a 400W Minuteman UPS. Also just added a Starlink setup, so that's up to 80W. I can get about 2 days with my current 6ish KWh li-ion setup, if I'm frugal. The refer (100ish run watts) and freezer (75 run watts) are separately powered currently. New setup would add those two. I'm only 800sqft in a redwood forest, so pretty moderate climate. The minisplit can run with useful output down to 400W or so, but if it's really working, up to 1300w, so not a good idea on a small battery. Altho if I had to, I could run it off the battery overnight and recharge from generator daytime. Before the Starlink, my average power using a laptop lights and comms stuff can be as low as 100W or so, tho the Starlink won't help. At night, CPAP and basic comms still about 100W. Blanket probably adds an average 50-60W on the few times I need to use it. So, if I'm conserving, 3-4 days easy on 15ish KWh, if I'm cold and using full computer/50" many hours, probably a solid 2 days. Wish I could use solar, but the trees don't help. (Now with Starlink. It's usable for emails and such, but only connects about 80% of the time. But, when the storms hit, I have no other communications, so...) Leaning towards one of those all-in-one inverter/charger units, maybe a 3000W. Don't like the low power standby losses, but it's less hassle than my low-power/high power current setup. (400W UPS on always, 3000W inverter on when heavy loads. 'solar' generators covering refer/freezer currently.)
Keep up the great videos!
The MPH30 is a really brilliant product! I use mine close to every week for replacing stepper drivers, MCU modules and even CM4 connectors. It's a truly great device for rework when you do prototyping!
Thank you for sharing your info. It seems you have a lot of "casualties" ;-)
I have a pair of "40A" SSRs on my water heater. It only draws 17A per element. Without a fan and heatsink, even at 17A, the SSR gets hot enough to fail (happened once). Interesting note about SSR is that they tend to fail in the ON position.
As you write, they overheat without heatsink. That is why they fail in the "ON" state.
@@AndreasSpiess I have used these Fotek ones quite a bit in the past. Past being the key word. Solid State Relays are great, just not these. These Fotek ones are really crappy and fail sometimes with a load under 1 amp. They are a cheap knockoff and should not be used if there is any reliability required. Also, they say 3 to 32 vdc trigger, yet many of them will not trigger at 3.3vdc. This is a real problem if trying to drive with an esp32 or equivalent.
@@grassrootfilmsYou get at most what you have paid for. If you pay little, you have little (in the best case scenario). Chinese are not charity associations, if their goods cost so little (if compared to a west made product) there is a reason .....
For anything serious I would not use a 5€ no name power SSR. A Siemens PLC costs hundreds of € for a computing power and functionalities that is a mere fraction of, let us say, a ESP32 board. But you can expect the Siemens PLC to work for at least 20 years 24/24h in an industrial environment without issues. For a ESP32 board I have absolutely no expectations (some of them are even faulty on delivery).
Thank you Andreas for your valuable explanations.
May I add that the SSR for DC may have significant voltage drop of up to 1V ( That is why it needs cooling 🙂) For battery applications this can be too much.
For resoldering I mounted an old iron upside down. Then I use an aluminium piece of about the size of your heater glued with heat sink paste to the iron. This works very well for unsoldering Espressifs or other stuff
Cool idea! I did not know that irons get so hot.
Really enjoy your mail bag videos… interesting mix of items and creative ideas … 73’s
Thank you!
3:58 As soon as the RISC-V-Board will be available in Arduino/PlatformIO, I would be really happy to see a video about it.
I hope I will get the info to test it...
Andreas. If you want to desolder something large.
Use a thick copper wire. Bend it around the vias. And heat it up with your soldering iron.
The copper wire will transfer the heat to all the vias.
If you use low melt solder would help too.
Thank you for your tip!
I like your "post bags".
Thank you!
9:20 very nice product and well explained - love it and consider to add it to my 16S LFP = 51,2 V battery.
Reading other comments, it seems to be better to not use the full specs... I plan for a max current of 30A..
Thank you Andreas. And a special sneak peak of the top secret S3 board (14:20). Full of analog adjustments, labels for Antennas and, curiously, PTTs. Can’t wait. Oh, and I’ll take two.
The potentiometers are there because we want to experiment with the voltage levels. In a second version, we hope we can avoid most of them...
I hope you're okay Ander your voice doesn't sound as smooth as usual.
Yeah I was searching for comment like this, I hope he is ok.
I just returned from our trip to the north of Scottland. So I am fine.
I use a different microphone for mailbag videos. And these videos are not scripted.
I will use the DC Foteks for switching off 120VDC solar power. Thanks for sharing all the other stuff.
It seems advisable that you do not load them to the specs. And you must add a heat sink. Otherwise, they do not survive long (voice of other commenters).
@@AndreasSpiess done that 200V version and 5 times bigger current and flyback external shottky doides 🤔
Hi,
Hope you are okay and well…
Thank you for the nice link summary!!!
I am ok, thanks!
The data sheet for the Foteck SSR's from Taiwan show the limits of the devices.
The output to the load must be fused. Most likely a circuit breaker is present
anyway. The rated current is ONLY for purely resistive loads and while using a
heatsink at all times with thermal compound.
For other loads, they advise using X times a higher current rated module.
Incandescent lamps and three phase motors, 4 times the rated current.
*Transformer loads are to use 10 times the rated current.
Capacitive loads are to use 3 times.
So a 2.5A max transformer load would require a 25A SSR.
Excellent video like always. :)
I assume similar rules apply to mechanical relays (I am no power electronics guy). I plan to switch max. 30A with my 100A relay. They are so cheap, why not ;-)
Very interesting... Thank you for sharing :)
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing!!
My pleasure!!
Heat shrink tubes that can be used with a Brother label maker?! I was unaware of such goodness. Best thing since sliced bread!
I agree. Check the data sheet of your printer. Not all support tubes. I use a P700.
Thanks for this, interesting as always, hot plate desolating of smd, be sure and show your way of soldering it’s replacement!!
Usually, I solder one pin first, adlust the opposite pin, and them "drag solder" with lots of flux.
Really useful!
Glad you think so!
I keep a small plate of 6mm thick aluminium (about 40-50mm square) around for the purpose of reflowing parts of a PCB. It sits between a regular sized hot plate and the PCB.
Good idea!
We use those pre-heater hotplates for rework all the time... it is so much easier to control the temperature (and air flow) than using a hot air rework station. I'm not skillful enough to use it with double sided PCBs (I don't do too much rework), but I've seen our production techs work magic with them.
Thank you for sharing your experience!
points to note for SSR : very good (ususally opto) isolation (especially compared to a plain transistor circuit) ; vs relays, no potential sparkling, bouncing, no clicking sound. On the bad side: quite high ON- resistance; critical behavior in overcurrent/shortcircuit situations.
I agree with your positive points. I did not measure the on resistance and, unfortunately, it is not specified.
Also worthy of note is leakage current at the output which can cause issues with light loads, including failure of the SSR to release properly.
1:16 ist nice, but different cable colours for the different voltages would be nice too, cause both in yellow is not the safest even though but a quite nice tip.
I use the usual dymo labeler from aldi and the cheap unbranded paper labels. If I want additional protection I simply add a round of TESA tape that will protect it very well for quite a long time and I bet a lot cheaper than the heat shrink printer.
Dymo added DRM to its latest products, so buy a used label printer or an alternative brand.
@@nobodynoone2500 DRM heat shrink tube also works with Dymo label maker, e.g. 280 or 450. I have both of them and both work fine.
You get the tubes in different colors, so you could do it (and I agree, it would be better). But the number of different tubes becomes big if you multiply the width with the colors...
I bought an MHP30 some time ago and it has expanded a lot the types of PCBs I can solder. And of course, desolder. It's small, yes, but I don't make PCBs that are more than 20cm x 20cm, and moving the PCB to put the hotplate below the area of interest is no big deal.
Thank you for sharing your experience!
The desoldering pad logo reminds me the DSO portable oscilloscope. I have a DSO Quad nano with a very similar logo design, ad it's a really nice device.
It is probably the same brand: Miniware.
Yea cool stuff. Love it
:-)
Just be aware that 12V is not a standard, mandatory voltage in the PD standard.
Some PD batteries and chargers only support 9 and 15 volts and the 12volt cable will not work.
So check your charger datasheet if it optionally supports 12 volt.
Interesting! Thank you.
The mini hot plate is just what many need to avoid potential damage and personal stress. It can truly save time too. I noticed the display and the A/B ports/buttons so I'm curious what they're for. Is the temperature adjustable? Perhaps a demonstration ???
The temperature is adjustable (3 levels). Also other parameters are programmable.
@@AndreasSpiess Thank you so much. I really enjoy your presentations. I don't have any experience with Arduinos yet buy I'm planning to get involved soon enough.
UAu, the Heat Shrink Tube is very handy
I agree!
I appreciate your insistence on sticking with boards that are actually Arduino-IDE compatible. It cuts way down on my own research on whether I need to install Yet Another IDE. Would much rather "hit the ground running" where I know I can start with testing right away. Burned too much time already learning too many IDEs. Maybe I am stubborn.
I agree. This is why I still use the Arduino IDE.
For high DC currents I use car relais. They are dirt cheap and easy to connect/replace.
Good idea! Sometimes, relays get quite warm if they are on 24/7 (the coil consumes quite some current). This is why I decided on a solid-state relay.
@@AndreasSpiess Of course, they are not perfect for every project...
I love this Aliexpress series! Please more of that.
I did many more of them a few years ago. But then they were no longer watched often. So I decided to reduce the number of videos in this genre :-(.
@@AndreasSpiess I blame the high quality of your project focused videos: "Oh, the guy with the Swiss accent dropped a video, gonna be something cool - oh it's a mail bag. I guess I'll watch it later" :) I, for one, appreciate the breadth of these. So perhaps keep them less often, but collect several cool things. Like this one (well, two).
I like and use solid state AC relays you show here. I discovered that these relays do leak a small AC current when off - enought to trigger an AC indicator LED I wanted to use as an on/off display. I’ve tried several brands of solid state AC relays and see the same behavior. These relays also switch very quickly and can do nice PWM effects with the right load. I love them but cannot use them in every AC application due to the current leak.
They have a rather finite lifespan too, not saying don't use them, but buy two and keep the spare with the device using it lol
I use one of these AC relays to switch all my devices around the PC if the 12V supply of the PC goes away. It has worked for at least 5 years. But of course, only with a low load.
I did not know it has a high leakage current. Thanks!
Those labeler can print on heat shrink! OMG how did I not know that.
Not all of them. You have to consult the data sheet (I use a P700)
I have encountered similar situations with SSR not shutting off and resolved it by placing a resistor across the input. I believe the internal trigger is a triac or at least it behaves like one
I am not sure if this is a problem on the input. So your solution surprises me. Did you use an AC SSR for DC?
@@AndreasSpiess AC SSR with AC load. Issue was on the control side
Thanks for the very interesiting mailbag. What the LiFePos are intended to use?
If I did not show it in this video it should apear in the next one...
@@AndreasSpiess I stay tuned 🙂
Nice collection, Andreas.
I would like to ask if you could put the youtube link in your patreo posts as well, in text format? This way I could save the time it needs to login into Patron, use 2FA, just to get redirected to youtube. I could jump to youtube directly out of my mail program. Thanks a lot for considering.
Now your comment appeared again on TH-cam and I can answer here. Wilco (Will comply ;-)
@@AndreasSpiess Cheers!
For the Dongguan LiFePO4 batteries, most realistic the ones before from the manufacturer was the 120Ah. It seems they are from CATL. It's good to make sure they are insulated against each other as the insulation that is there, especially the black plastic on the top, is not very good.
I agree, I put some plastic in between the batteries (table sets from IKEA ;-)
Very interesting overview! By the way, those dirt cheap SSR-s are sometimes not very well made, I'd really hesitate to run it with nominal current for any longer period. It is very tempting though, because price ratio with "Made in EU" ones can be easily 16 dB...
And 16dB is a lot ;-)
Our remote station will consume around 30A max. So we will see...
Based on BigClive's teardown of one SSR (7 years ago now), I consider the ratings listed as MAX PEAK, and the operating current should be close to half the rated current for the dirt cheap ones. 40A ones work great for any household devices in the US
Ihave burnt a couple of these. They cant handle the rated current over time.
@@torfinnsrnes6232Agreed! I had a SSR 25 DA blow up switching a 3kW 240V immersion heater on low duty cycle. The SSR 40 DA I replaced it with has been OK. So nowhere near the specified current from my experience. They don't smell nice when they blow.
Good evening, Andreas. I hope you are having a good weekend.
Yes. I just returned from our trip to Scottland and summer arrived in Switzerland. So I am having a good time!
@@AndreasSpiess I just received new from my new sister. I have a first cousin from Switzerland. Bit of a surprise to me.
@@chuxxsss The world is small ;-)
Andreas,
The RISC-V board is too impressive to overlook. How about considering an introductory video? Thank you for sharing it.
If it is supported by the Arduino IDE it is well possible it will re-appear...
The miniware products all seem so nice but more than i want to spend lol. But i really want to.😂
I agree!
Oh, just at the start - the USB C coax power cables - the heat shrink labels are good, but I'd have used different colors for 9 vs 12 - maybe even just a hand-added marker line. Wrong voltage to the circuit is such a heart-breaker!
Different colors are better, of course. But a logistical nightmare for me with all the combination with widths.
The CH32v3x are highly compatible with the STM32F103 type MCU as far as peripherals go, ~ same driver code works.
Good to know! So maybe the Arduino libraries will work, too...
Very interesting content.
I want to see how RISC V works out. Lots more kit becoming available.
Hot plate is not cheap but how long would it take to remove ESP module without it. Time can expensive.
My time (as an SAP consultant) for sure is expensive ;-)
My problem with USB-C PD trigger boards is that 12V is an optional voltage level and not actually required hence most PD chargers will only do the required 5V, 9V, 15V, 20V and a 12V trigger will only give out 9V in that case
So far, I had none without 12V. But not all offered 20V.
@@AndreasSpiess Spigen ArcDock 120W GaN Charger won't do 12v via USB-C PD but will do 12V@1.5A on junky USB-A QC
CH32V is really interesting, note that 307 has built-in PHY for USB High speed and 10 Mbps Ethernet MAC.
Thanks for the info!
looking forward to your 300ah battery cell build. From the pic, saw you had the BMS for part 2? :)
I did not plan a video about the battery because there are a lot of them already on the internet. But it will appear on my second channel when it is installed in the remote station.
@@AndreasSpiess Correct many videos out there, but your channel goes beyond most so always interested in your PoV. Planning any monitoring beyond the BMS provided sensors?
@@Chris-ut6eq The BMS reports all the needed parameters for me. I replaced the BT dongle with an ESP8266...
Even with that pcb, it will be hard to use that hotplate as pcb will going to fall from it. So, it is very niche product.
I was able to keep it in one hand. But I agree, you have to use it a few times before you "master" it.
SSR are great for switching, but their resistance when closed is not ideal. I wish there was hybrid relays available. A SSR for turning on/off and a regular relay in parallell that bypasses the SSR in the on-state to lower the heat output and the overall resistance.
I assume you can create such a "hybrid yourself. So far, I have not measured the losses and found no specs (I use a buck converter after the relay).
Could you maybe test the MangoPI mqpro? It is based on the allwinner d1 which contains a single riscv core
As a Linux noob I decided to stick with the Raspberry Pi. They should be available again after the summer break...
these relays you showed at @6:00 (Songle, blue) are the worst what can happen on Ali - they very often glue together and the only way to disconnect is to ... use hammer - I had to replace more than 20 in my projects that were connected to mains - they were simply not reliable at all and very dangerous.
I found later that there are relays and relays and the most important characteristic of good relay is: the material the contacts are made of.
Thank you for sharing your experience! For mains, I use the Fotek SSRs (or the smaller Omrons for PCBs). I use the blue ones for low voltage/low power applications and so far had no issues.
I haven't got into PD yet - but seeing those cables reminds me of a question I had when they first hit the market - do all PD power sources have dedicated power regulators for each output port? i.e. If you plug the 9v and 12v cables into different connectors on the same power bank/supply - do they both get the expected output? I've watched many of Big Clive's "normal" power bank teardowns where the output ports all share the same regulator (obviously, because they only produce 5v) but he hasn't done a PD version yet (to my knowledge). Interesting video, as always. Stay safe out there.
Yes they do! Voltage is negotiated from both sides of the Cable. If that doesn't work it falls back to 5V as it's USB.
They probably use variable boost converters because many of them not only provide 9/12/15V. They provide also all voltages in between in 0.1V steps.
But they need one for each USB-C connector as the voltage can differ according to the needs of the consumer.
@@AndreasSpiess That's good to know - and explains some of the extra cost of PD power banks.
Beau petit labo
Merci!
@@AndreasSpiess Le microscope a l'air très bien.
Maybe hotplate is for presolder balls in BGA chips? I tried some time ago with hot air and its not so easy
Well possible. So far, I never did such a job.
For the power cables (first item in this video), do they need to be CE marked? In Ali Baba on the specification tab, the certification is marked as NONE. Does anyone reading this know what can be expected/required?
Who cares?!
They don't need it, but you must also accept the risk of being low quality and/or unprotected from common faults.
Buyer beware even with supposedly "certified" stuff on chinese electronics sites.
@@nobodynoone2500 Thank you so much for your reply. Maybe it is OK to use material like this for home electronics etc, but I guess it would not fly in a more commercial production setup.
The specification tab usually is not filled correctly. I only go with the description.
Anyway, as others wrote: The Chinese CE signs are not very valuable...
@@AndreasSpiess Dear Andreas, thank you so much for your reply.
Just noticed you have a series on platformio IDE for Arduino, thanks. I refuse to use the arduino IDE any longer because of the poor professionalism/reliability.
PlatformIO uses the Arduino framework. So you have the goodies of both worlds...
What Brother Label printer are you using for printing on heat shrinking tubes ?
The P700. I once got it in a sale...
I am interested in the ch32v303 because it has a build in Ethernet without any external component except for connector
In my opinion 305/307 is a bit more interesting because of High Speed USB without having to route ULPI...
Not sure if anyone else added a comment about this but did you notice that a pack of 8 pcs. LFP batteries is $1636 while ordering 8 x 1pcs is $1580?
You always have to pay attention to this and chose the package with the lowest cost per item, which isn’t always the one you’d expect. Else you’re simply overpaying for the exact same thing.
Thank you for the information!
I have high hopes for RISC-V
So the trend goes in your direction...
Would your DC SSR still work for an AC load?
I do not think so.
Good to know about the Baseus GaN 100W. You can't charge 2 iPhone (it's seems about 20W "only" is required) at the same time. I tried on both USB Cat the same time or 1 USB C - 1 USB A. Each time one phone is disconnected ! :( Why ??? Sad...
All PD devices I have disconnect all charged devices when a new connector is inserted. It seems they have to redo the calculation for the internal power budget. And indeed, my iPhone 15 only consumes 25W max while charging. Higher power is mostly for laptops with larger batteries.
love the unscripted aspect of this video
Thank you for your feedback!
I do wonder a bit when ublox will have the C and with that riscv SOM’s.
Hmm that Li prices crazy..
That was price of 8... :-)
If you multiply 24Vx300Ah you get 7.2kWh. Compare it with a Tesla Power Wall or similar batteries...
Do any one know if the shipping on aliexpress contain the customs of the country delivered to or not ?
please some one help me with that
It depends on the country. In the EU, taxes are collected by AliExpress. In Switzerland for example, not.
Hey good day to you, please make some video using contact image sensor with esp32 or arduino to get an image
What is a "contact image"?
12 waltz? I didn't even know there were that many.
I do not understand :-(
What if you would buy 8x1 instead of 1x8 pieces of the batteries? It's almost $60 less
I was not aware of this difference...
3:19 where did you get that powerbank in white color?
As always, you find all relevant links in the video description ;-)
Those lifepo4 cells are not showing up when I look at the store/link, just a completely empty webstore....
Good point. It seems they closed the shop after I made the video :-(
Many Solid State Relays (SSR) are AC only, some will do DC, and those that do care about load polarity!. The better brands have good datasheets that explain the options. Almost none will survive more than 6A continuous without some form of heatsink: the bottom plate is metal to provide a protective earth and heat dump option. Your 25A at 380V model assumes a beefy heatsink and fan, not shown / purchased separately!
Be aware that exceptionally cheap ("too good to be true") SSR have been found to lie about their specs, using 3A FET/TRIAC and claiming 10A rating was popular, and claiming optoisolation but not having any came up too. 2021 SSR are better than 2016 SSR were, but still be aware!
Great toys when they work :)
Others also mentioned that you have to pay attention. I thought I showed the heatsink, BTW.
Try the board with generic STM32 generic library in arduino ide
How should this work? The STMs do not use the RISC-V instruction set.
Please note that the link to the MHP-30 hotplate does not work.
Thanks for the info. It seems that the supplier I bought from stopped selling the product after I made my video. I added another link.
Sorry, the first one needs a special power block right? You can't just hook it up to a usb type c phone charger?
As mentioned, PD capability is needed. Most current USB-C devices support this standard.
@@AndreasSpiess sorry, my bad. Flicking through whilst at work 🙄
Vendors call any evaluation board with Arduino pin headers "Arduino compatible". Doesn't mean it is supported in the IDE or framework.
I agree. But I asked for the Arduino IDE...
MHP30 Hot plate link does not work :(
Thanks for the info. My supplier stopped selling the product after I made the video. I replaced the link.
I'd love to know how to implement esp-now in esphome on esp32 wroom32 boards.
I tried wifi-now and still can't get it to work a video will be great to see how it works in esphome
Google found some projects. So far, I always used standard WiFi for my network... What would be the advantage to use ESP-Now?
@@AndreasSpiess In home assistant esphome is used there and all my nodeds or devices is esp32 devices esp-now or wifi-now is used communicate directly between devices with out having the server running render the system control more stable if the server is disabled for some time. E.G... a water pump and a water tank the water pump controlled by a esp32 and the water tank level measured by another esp32 can still continue to work even if the server is down.
hope this makes sence.
Just a matter of time when someone connects the 12V usb-cable to a car battery and the other end into his notebook 🤯
We already doing that :)
Type c to Laptop is a very common thing now days.
I don't even remember when did I used the original laptop charger.
@@remy44444 yeah - but those cables only work the other way.
I am not sure if anything would happen. The laptop should get along with 12V on the charging rail (it expects 19V). But it probably would not start charging if no PD handshake appears.
Not too sound too critical, but are you feeling ok my friend? You sound quite short of breath and a little delayed. Hope you are doing well, Andreas
I am doing well, thank you!. The mailbag videos are not scripted and I use a different microphone. So the sound is different.
Be careful with cheap SSRs. The really cheap ones are guaranteed to be fake. The more expensive ones (>5 USD for 40 A) can be fake too, but at least you have a chance to get a genuine SSR. Yes, a Chinese brand can be genuine and fake too 😁. Anyways, test their current capabilities by increasing the current stepwise to their rating while keeping an eye (or finger) on the temperature. A fake SSR can have a good circuit design, but they often come with a smaller triac, or even an old used one. In that case, you are lucky if you get 15-20 A through a 40 A fake SSR ...
Thank you for the info! I never use anything Chinese up to their specs…
"Extremely expensive given it's size" he said after spending over 1600 dollars on batteries lmao. I'm sure there's a good reason, just was funny in comparison!
The batteries are also much bigger and heavier. So the price/size is much lower ;-)