How to Create a Two-Part Mold in Fusion 360 - Learn Autodesk Fusion 360 in 30 Days: Day #21
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- How to Create a Two-Part Mold (to 3D Print) in Fusion 360 // Welcome to Day #21 of Learn Fusion 360 in 30 days. By the end of this tutorial, you’ll be able to 3D model a two-part mold that you can 3D print.
We’ll take a look at how to use the Combine tool to subtract a body, how to split a body in half, and how to create registration pins for the mold.
ONE-PART MOLD VIDEO:
• How to Create a One-Pa...
Watch this course ad-free: skl.sh/3e78ksX
SUPPORT KEVIN'S MISSION
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
[Making CAD education accessible]
1. Kevin's Patreon: / productdesignonline
2. Buy Kevin a Coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/pdo
3. Amazon storefront: bit.ly/amazonpdo
4. Subscribe to this channel: bit.ly/sub-right-now
TUTORIAL RESOURCES
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
1. Demo Files & Reference Images: bit.ly/f36030days
2. Checklist for F360 beginners: bit.ly/f360checklist
TOP FUSION 360 PLAYLISTS
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
30 Days Series: bit.ly/learn-fusion360
Woodworkers: bit.ly/woodworker-playlist
3D Printing: bit.ly/3D-printing-playlist
Sculpting: bit.ly/sculpt-playlist
KEVIN’S FAV 3D PRINTERS
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
➞ Ultimaker: bit.ly/kevins-printer
➞ Prusa: bit.ly/prusa3dp
JOIN THE PDO COMMUNITY
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
Discord Group: bit.ly/PDO-Discord
Facebook Group: bit.ly/PDO-Fb
PDO Forum: bit.ly/PDO-Forum
FOLLOW KEVIN ELSEWHERE
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
Twitter: / prodesignonline
Facebook: / productdesignonline
Instagram: / productdesignonline
Want to send me something?
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
PO Box 1914
Woodinville, WA 98072
USA
TIMESTAMPS
━━━━━━━━━━━━━
0:00 - Create a 2-Part Mold in Fusion 360
1:10 - Create the mold box
2:34 - Change opacity of a body
2:48 - Subtract object from the mold
3:37 - Create a construction plane
4:12 - Split body into two pieces
5:59 - Create registration spheres
8:23 - Create a hole to pour into
10:10 - Draft analysis
11:35 - Save for 3D printing
-
Disclaimer:
This video description may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a small commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you.
#Fusion360 #ProductDesignOnline
How'd it go?? Drop your Fusion 360 questions about this video in the comments below! 👇
*TIMESTAMPS*
0:00 - Create a 2-Part Mold in Fusion 360
1:10 - Create the mold box
2:34 - Change opacity of a body
2:48 - Subtract object from the mold
3:37 - Create a construction plane
4:12 - Split body into two pieces
5:59 - Create registration spheres
8:23 - Create a hole to pour into
10:10 - Draft analysis
11:35 - Save for 3D printing
can i send you my file and can you just do it for me? ill pay
How could one fix any support issues inside the mold for printing!? Just printed my first fold and half work better then the other!
SWEET VIDEO!
Thanks, F360 team! :D
kolok
I waited to watch these after they were all posted so I could go thru them at my own pace, I have done 22 in like 4 days now. To be honest after watching Lars Christensen for a year or more now, I didn't really think I would learn much just brush up from another perspective. I'll be darned, I have learned something new in every one so far. Great Job & Thank You for taking the time to do something like this !!!!!!!
Hi, Frank. I'm happy to hear that you're learning lots! I will continue to make tutorials as long as there are people watching. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Cheers, Kevin :)
without a doubt you make the best tutorials for Fusion. I was having so much trouble learning the software until this. Bless your soul!
im like 2 hours new into fusion 360 and you helped out allot already. love the mould videos. THANKS M8 !!!!
Have to give this video a thumbs down. Tried printing the doughnut without the molds but it tasted like plastic mostly, only ate one half before I threw it out in the bin.
Hi, Special Agent Dale Cooper. It sounds like you forgot to add the frosting and sprinkles. Those should drown out the plastic taste enough to were you could finish it. Cheers, Kevin :)
Can you include a link to the sprinkles?
Thank you for this and especially for making it short and to the point. Worked perfectly.
This was my favorite tutorial so far Thank you!
Trust this video to pop up after I've done it the longer way. You did it with a very simple method in comparison. The registration hole and combine features 🖖🏾🏆
Really enjoy your videos, keep going! Thanks Kevin.
Thank you very much for your video! This was the best I found in regards to making mold boxes in Fusion 360! I will save it and use as a reference for my future mold making adventures!
Thanks for the refresher. I have made several of these that I use for press molding custom carbon-fiber bike parts. It's very easy to do -- you don't even need parting fluid, you can just use kitchen cling wrap over the mold and lay up the wetted CF, press, clamp (I use more cling wrap, stretched, to provide the compression) and you get perfect parts.
Great tips! Thx :)
Depending on the material a compression style mold might be best. Same process, but you can extrude the periphery of the mold halves into a male and female complimentary protrusion. This can allow you to exert more force on the media to be shaped without it shooting through the seams.
This is brilliant - Just what I needed for a fishinglure project - thanks
Hi, Splish Splash. I just checked out your channel....great stuff! The perfect use of Fusion 360 and 3D printing! Cheers, Kevin :)
Great video and equally great series!!
Thanks, Vince! Sorry I missed your comment earlier. Cheers, Kevin :)
Nice video and thanks for posting. May I suggest the registration marks not be symmetrical. That change would help reduce chances of accidentally putting the two haves together the wrong way.
Great Tip!!! Cheers, Kevin :)
Brilliant as usual.
Awesome video. Thank you so much.
Thank you. This is still relevant and useful.
Hi, Thank you for the nice tutorial. Just one question, does it need another hole for air to come out? If yes, which part should contain it?
Explanation very good upto the required points.
Thanks, 123kkambiz! I'm always happy to hear the explanation was good and thorough. Cheers, Kevin :)
Excellent Videos! I'm now a follower.
Thanks, rocketfast09! I'm happy to hear that. Don't ever hesitate to comment questions on any of my videos. Cheers, Kevin :)
I had been doing this for months and I couldn't, I followed all the steps and it was very good thx
I really love your delivery! Very concise and informative. Oh and you don’t say “Okay” or “K” every other sentence😲.
🙂🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🤓
Thanks for the kind words, Steve. I spend a lot of time prepping the tutorials and planning things out...so I'm glad to hear it pays off. Don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos should you have any questions. Cheers, Kevin :)
it´s coming handy! thanks!!!
Well done! Thank you
Thanks, Kamp Media! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment! Cheers, Kevin :)
You are amazing!
Thanks a lot brother!!
Best wishes!!!
Thank you so much, this video is great...
nicely done, and very clear to understand. so many cad tutorials are narrated by voices very difficult to understand. your tips along the way were helpful and didnt get in the way of the lesson. thanks mang
Your videos are the best on the internet for this product!!
Question: what do you think of printing the mold halves in tpu or something somewhat flexible?
Thanks, ripper9111! I'm happy you enjoy my tutorials. Please don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos should you have any questions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Great job enjoyed the video.
As always, thanks for watching, Rud Dog! Cheers, Kevin :)
5:28
"or chocolate"
Kevin knows what I'm up to 😛
Greatest video 😃👍
thanks,really simple and useful video
Kevin...thank you, thank you, thank you...for this superb video!!!!
Thanks, R K. I'm glad you liked it. Please don't hesitate to comment on any of my videos should you have any questions. Cheers, Kevin :)
Kevin...this is probably the 4th or 5th video of yours I have watched. They are all great. Particularly appreciate how responsive and interactive you are with your viewers. You are a rarity on that...and I am sure it is super tough to do. Anyway, I am a fan and a subscriber!
It definitely takes time to respond to everyone... but I'm genuinely more interested in helping others Learn Fusion 360 over getting "famous" on YT. Thanks for your support. I'm glad you're enjoying them. Cheers, Kevin :)
Kevin...I embedded a link to your video into my class notes...if any other students refer to my notes, they will see that you were very helpful to my understanding of F360. Please don't stop teaching!
@@sennabullet Thanks! I really appreciate that and I'm always happy to answer Fusion 360 questions for you or your students. I don't plan on stopping anytime soon! Cheers, Kevin :)
Great Video!
how would someone add tolerances to the registration pins? Wouldn't it be better to have some offset in those spherical cuts?
Great Tutorial. I would like to implement these methods in Autodesk Inventor for plastic design and silicone mold design. Thanks for this content.
Nice work!
Thanks, Jonny! I appreciate your continued support. Cheers, Kevin :)
FIRS EVER VIDEO THAT GET TO THE POINT !!! MAN YOU ARE GREAT
Thanks, offer shahar! Check out the entire 30 Days series here - bit.ly/learn-fusion360
Cheers, Kevin :)
Thanks! I just made my first mold following your vid. Will now subscribe. Wish I knew someone with an aluminum cnc milling machine to make my mold. I shall scan the interwebs.
First let me say I LOVE this video series. I'm just getting into 3d printing and am finding this invaluable. That being said, there are a couple things I'd like to suggest for the mold. I've been in injection molding for decades, so I may have a different perspective.
1) This is petty, but at least in my experience, they're called locators. Never heard the term registration pins.
2) The pins are almost always cylinders with a chamfer on top. It's much more robust that a sphere. With molding by pouring the material in, this may not be an issue since there isn't any real pressure building up inside. Injection molding is different and would tear the spheres apart very quickly. The other solid option is a cone shape if it's difficult to line up the halves.
3) I would seriously consider adding a vent hole. Otherwise the air won't all get displaced and you'll wind up with a very porous part. They can be tiny so the final part isn't really effected. Injection molds have these and you can't even see where they are on the finished part.
4) Does the inspect function have the ability to check the knit lines? If using a hot material this is critical in the molding process.
5) You could optionally add ejector pins on the halves to aid in releasing the part. These leave marks though.
Please don't take this as criticism, I can't get enough of these. You're series is by FAR the best one out there. Kudos for mentioning mold release and undercuts as well. Anyone starting in molding of any kind really needs to understand these things to be successful.
Your videos are so good I felt I had to become a Patreon supporter. Never done that before. Made an account solely for that purpose. Fantastic work, I sincerely appreciate it.
Thanks, Jon! I really appreciate you joining my Patreon. Every little bit adds up and will continue to help me create more tutorials and invest in more/better equipment to improve them. Cheers, Kevin :)
Hi, Jon. Thanks for the feedback. I'm always open to hearing things like this!
To clarify, this tutorial was intended to be a very stripped down mold-making tutorial with the focus to be predominantly on Fusion 360's features. Because of that, I have removed industry terminology and tried to keep it at a basic level that a hobbyists could understand and use for small projects (3d printed).
I do hope to eventually create some tutorials or a course that is more specific to Injection Molding. I have some experience designing and manufacturing for injection molded parts...although it sounds like you have more than me! I may have to pick your brain if I get around to making a tutorial for it.
Thanks again for taking the time to leave and share this valuable molding info! Cheers, Kevin :)
I see what you mean. Makes a lot of sense to do it that way. I would be happy to help any way I can, and I'm never to proud to admit when I don't know something 😂
@@joncue0304 Thanks again...and thanks for your honesty, Jon! :D
Thank you SO much!
Thank you very much for your efforts! You are just keep making me interested! Although I can't wait to see in the next tutorials tips about animating and rendering to make a good presentation of a design! I don't know if these videos are in the channel or not but if not please consider adding this idea to your to do list ❤👐
Thank you again!
Hi, Ziad. I do have a longer form "rendering" tutorial on the "to do" list. My plan is to show how to take a model and create a realistic product rendering, something that Product Designers use for presentations, pitches, or sometimes marketing materials. I have a few other videos in the works, but its definitely at the top of my list once I get through those. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Keep up the good work 👏❤
@@ziadammar3095 Thank you! :)
Super thanks!!
Great series Kevin. Thank you! My question has to do with the Combine function. I can select the mold box, but cannot select the donut. Why can I not select the donut?
Thanks! Can you share your Fusion 360 file or a screenshot so I can see what's going on?
I have the same problem
Hi Kevin, a great video. With the two part mould you would need to create a negative of each part of the mould as a first step. How would I do that with the current mould part? For example I have a negative mould-then cut out in wax-use silicone to create your mould part-use your mould part to fill with resin-resin doughnut completed.
Thanks, Matt. Not sure I'm following your question. Can you post pictures/details of what you're trying to achieve in my community space? bit.ly/PDOcommunity
Thanks
Much needed one
Sweet vid. Any chance of doing a tutorial for making soft plastic lure mold with side entry for the plastic injection? And cylinder pins as the registration? I have a CNC router and would love to know how to make my own molds. Would be awesome to see the CAM part of it too cutting out the pockets, etc. My Router is like a Workbee 1500x1500. Aluminium block will be the material. Not sure if anyone has done tutorials online of this before but this vid helps at least. Thanks.
amazing!! I can't thank you enough
Glad you're enjoying them! Cheers, Kevin :)
Dude, thank you thank you thank you
Hi! I made the top invisible but you still can see its ghostly shape, and no matter how I turn the bottom part I can't place a sphere on the top of the bottom - it ends up on the top's top.
And if I select a top surface of the top - then I can work with the bottom part. But when I make the top visible again - it shows as a solid piece without the doughnut hole in it.
Love this series (and your other Fusion tutorials as well). What filament do you recommended for making molds? I've seen some sites recommend PETG, others ABS or ASA? I would've thought TPE or TPU would be easiest to bend apart. I've also printed in PLA, nylons, and PC, so curious what you've found works best for holding epoxy resins? Thanks.
For epoxy, I've always used PETG or TPU. What I've found matters more is using a 'mold release'. I typically use this one - amzn.to/3HjFPY1 and if you're in a pinch to get a project done you can sometimes get away with using PAM from the grocery store - amzn.to/3zIwhE6
PETG is better to have 'crisp' detail and surfaces, but does not work well for complex parts as you cannot really bend it...so you need to split the mold into 3+ pieces. TPU is the opposite, though you'll lose quality and detail depending on what your'e trying to achieve.
@@ProductDesignOnline Makes sense and very helpful. Thanks!
I found this very informative. If you were trying to split and align the item in the box (for making a sand cast mold) would the process change? Do you have a video on that? (sorry, I'm not sure how to search your video library). I plan to be making brass and aluminum flywheels approximately 4" in diameter and 3/4" thick with features on both sides so a 2 part mold is required.
If I knew how to link to a video I could send you an example of the models I build if it would help explain this.
I really am enjoying your videos. You are very good at explaining what you are doing in a simple manner for those of us that are "technologically challenged"
Cheers from Canada
Hi, bhein67. Depending on your model, you may need to make a 3-part mold. It really depends on the shape, as any potential "undercuts" would require additional ways to remove the mold so you don't mess up the object.
Great video. With your help, I created my first 2 pc mold that was 3D printed. The final mold though turned out to be a bit on the small side. The mold cavity is a 4" long angled pipe 0.615" diameter. It will be used to pour urethane parts. I need to increase the diameter of the pipe. I think it's possible. Any tips on going back into the drawing to increase the pipe diameter?
No need to answer. When in doubt, start at the beginning. The question was answered in the first video in the series 'Navigating the Fusion 360 User Interface'. This is a great series. I am learning F360 to model parts for our company's parts that are destined for our 3D printer.
So if I print this mold do I print it all at once or do I have to split the mold?
Could answer a question only if you have time?
I have a solid disk 25mm thick by a diameter of 80mm and I want to put 6 holes 10mm diameter each around the circumference 10mm off the edge. That is the easy part, im just trying set the stage for the part I cant do. Now for the hard part, I need each the hole to lean to the center of the disk 3 degrees and each hole follow the circumference of the disk leaning 10 degrees. can you help?
I thoroughly all of your series that you put up. You make it so easy to follow.
I'm always happy to help! However, I'm not sure I understand the last part of your question. I've got the disk part down and understand that you want to have circles around the circumference... but, can you please explain the degrees in further detail? do you have any reference image(s)? It seems like the 3 degrees and the 10 degrees contradict each other... or are they being applied to different circles? Cheers, Kevin
would you want the registration key positive to be slightly smaller before printing? If so, what's a good ball park number .3mm?
great point, Ben! .4mm is usually what I use for clearance. Anywhere from .3 to .8mm works depending on the other variables of the printer, slicer, etc :)
Great tutorial! I do have a question though, would the registration keys require a bit of tolerance around them to ensure the moulds actually fit together nicely? If so how would you ensure there is say a 0.2mm tolerance in the subtracted keys?
Yep! Use the Offset Face tool to subtract the desired tolerance (0.2mm total does work well in my experience).
One note with Offset face is that it will apply to the whole face so you'll actually subtract 0.1 to get the desired .2mm total
@@ProductDesignOnline Thanks for this info Kevin! love the tutorials, keep them up. Its because of your tutorials that I get better at F360 every day and can make my own models for 3DP!
Thank you for the great tutorial. I have a question about the registration spheres. Will top and bottom parts coincide? Or should we allow some tolerance gap to have a better closing of the two pars of the mold? Thank you.
If you plan to 3D print, you'll want to factor in a clearance of approximately 0.5mm to allow the registration pins to align. This can be done with "Offset faces" command.
@@ProductDesignOnline Hi, do you have a video on how to do these offset faces?
I had the same question. In practice I have found for my printer that .5mm is a bit loose and .3 is very snug. If the offset plane feature isnt working I would create a sketch on the plane draw a circle with diameter of the sphere and use the revolve tool to cut your two components using the offset tool in the sketch to create the correct size circle.
Hello Kevin, I came across your video when I was finding tutorials to 3D print molds for my miniature. It's such a well-thought tutorial.
Do you have any tutorial on how to create sprue for parts in a mold?
Thanks, Luan. I do not at the moment :)
For some reason I wasn't able to select my tool body at all during the combine phase. Looking online the only solution seemed to be stitching but I couldn't select my object in that either. It wasn't hidden and no special selection priorities were enabled. I couldnt select through the mold body even though I should have been able to. I was able to select it out of tools but not in them
hmmm.. If you can share the file in my community space we'd be happy to help troubleshoot: bit.ly/day1Solutions
Fantastic tutorial. I am trying to mould an object that is like a cup. i wish to have mould in three parts front fear and top. with the top being the top and hollow section of a cup. How do i make a removable plug as the pot section of mould? all the cut functions are across plane not to a set distance like 25% in to where the cup wall starts?
So if we have a part we want to make but our printer isn't big enough we could make the mold in more than 2 segments (assuming that the seams between mold segments aren't a big deal)?
Correct!
How do you do the same thing but add a slight air gap around the model you want to subtract from the new body? Is there an easier way than slightly up-scaling the model slightly larger before subtracting or is that the only method?
You can use "offset faces" to offset them a defined amount away from the tool or original part
When I split my two bodies into four (as you show in the end of your video), I try to create the spheres to cut holes in the opposite body as you showed before. When I try to do the combining-feature this time and select "cut" I get this error: "There was a problem combining geometry together. If attempting a Join/cut/Intersect, try ensure that the bodies have a clear overlap where faces and edges are nearly coincident."
Same error
same here
On the doughnut mold bottom component there is still a top body of the mold in the dropdown list. Will that effect the STL file?
No, as long as you only export the individual bodies. If exporting the Component you can remove any unwanted 3D bodies :)
Great tutorial. I was wondering how would you make a mold for a complex piece? I want to for some statue figures that have one leg bent other straight.
Thanks, John! Sounds like you'll need at least a 3 part mold (or more pieces) depending on how the leg is bent. Essentially, you can follow the same process, cutting in 2 or more directions at once. I'll have to do a more complex mold tutorial at some point.
I suggest looking up tutorials from prop and cosplay makers online. There are a number of good tutorials on complex mold making practices that work best. Take those and you cam then apply what you learned form this tutorial to that. From my experience you will be wanting to make a flexible master mold so it will be a multi part process. Lots of ways to do this though, and after a while you just have to learn from experience... good and bad!
i imported an stl model and im trying to make a mold of it but it will not let me select the model when combining
thanksssssssss
hey so I'm having a problem where its says the plane isn't in contact with the object I'm trying to split. Do you have any idea what would cause that to happen?
Hey Tristin. Are all of your bodies turned on in the Fusion 360 browser? Make sure the lightbulb icon is lit up. If that's not it, then please share your file and I'll take a look. Share your public link as a reply to this comment. Here's a video explaining how to share a public link - th-cam.com/video/2XrcrdV-8Ls/w-d-xo.html
Then, please write a separate comment letting me know you've replied with a link because TH-cam flags most links and I don't always get notified. Cheers, Kevin :)
This is weird, but after I create the rectangle and extrude it just like you did, it doesn't allow me to select the extruded rectangle from the Target Body. I can only select the Tool Body (the Doughnut). Why is this?
can you split a mould following a spline line?, im trying to split a wing mould but it does wierd things! the tool does cut a wing but it does leave some uncut stuff also .... cad life
Yes. A picture might explain it better (www.dropforging.net/image/forging%20of%20aluminum%20alloys.jpg) This is how a part would come out of a forging die. This one still has the flashing (where the excess metal comes out - You have to trim it to get the final part). If you looked at the part in the XZ Axis the flashing would look like just a line - you would not see any of the surface part. It is a RULED SURFACE with a DIRECTION (Direction is the Y Axis). You would have to take a slightly different strategy at both of the smaller ends to make the transitions from one side to another. For turbine blades, for example, you would want the parting lines to follow the leading and trailing edges to get proper metal flow and grain alignment. Are you trying to split on leading/trailing edges -- or along the top/bottom?
I'm interested in drawing the doughnut also. How can we draw the icing part like that?
Hi, paranajape. The Donut file was actually built in another 3D program. You could attempt to do the frosting in the Sculpt environment or... possibly by very carefully lofting surfaces in the Patch Workspace. However, this type of modeling would likely be easier achieved in Zbrush, Maya, or Blender. Cheers, Kevin :)
Hi
I was doing a Mold of a phone stand i made for a project at school. My mold is not coming out like you ha in the video. Can you please tell me what i am doing wrong?
I tried giving more register keys to the top and bottom components. I split the top and bottom halves to quarters and they gave me an error saying "There was a problem combining geometry together." what should I do?
Hi Sam. This error is typically caused by some sort of geometry not being fully closed. To check this, you can turn off the design history. Right-click on the top-level component in the Browser > Select "Do not capture design history". Then, while in the Design workspace, select the inspect dropdown menu > validate. Using the validate feature will help you verify the quality of the bodies. If it finds any errors it will attempt to repair them by stitching them together.
Let me know if that helps. I'd be happy to take a look at your file if you'd like. Cheers, Kevin :)
i just made a mold that doesnt need to be split it is a cookie mold and when i made a mold with the combine tool and the new component is now the final mold when i rcport it to cura its just a hockeypuck.. and i dont know what i did wrong i tried several times but no result :(
That donut, how did you create it. We need more videos concerning how to cut shapes from shapes.
how did you create the icing on the Donut?
I am facing an issue at 3:00, while cutting donut from the Mold box. I am unable to select Donut as Tool bodies.
same
Can we superlike videos? Thanks for the awesome work
I cannot figure out what it is I am doing wrong, I have fusion 360 2017 installed on my computer I created a 3D model of a tire for my RC car and I'm trying to create a mold so that I can produce my own tires. A lot of the functions that you speak of such as capture timeline I do not see in my software and have tried to find it please help
Why can't I select the inner structure which is the tool bodies when I want to combine?
How do I input the donut file into my desktop Fusion 360?
Kevin, could you show how to make the doughnut with icing in Fusion? Instead of using your demo file so I can learn the whole process?
thangk you soooooo mutsh helpt me aut alot!!! :)
Hi there, is this the right place to ask questions I'm a noob.. for some reason I can't see both top and bottom parts solid together I can view them solid seperately. I can either see the top or the bottom solid but not at the same time. I've tried the opacity control on all of them but no success. Pls help
Hi Darren. By default, Fusion 360 will "ghost" all components that are not active (you can change in the preferences if you don't like this). If you want to see all components at 100% opacity then you will need to right-click on the TOP LEVEL component (file name) in the Fusion 360 Browser > Select "Activate". When the top-level component is active all components and bodies nested underneath will have 100% opacity, unless the opacity has been individually changed.
Let me know if this solves it for you...if you're still having issues I would be happy to take a look at your file. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Hey Kevin, I did the tutorial over again and this time it works. I'm not sure where I went wrong. I read your opinion but there was another underlying problem.. probably something to do with components and bodies. Oh well it works now.. thank you for your fast response :)
Hey.. I've figured out what went wrong. I was getting confused with all the different opacity controls... Now if I activate the TOP LEVEL component everything goes solid (100 percent opacity) Thanks once again :)
@@darrenthacker9223 I'm glad you got it sorted out. It can be a bit confusing especially if you forget that you have manually changed the opacity to some of the bodies or components. Cheers, Kevin :)
HELP~ I did everything in this video and my mold will not hollow. I can select the box as my target body (no problem) Then I go to select the model for my tool body and nothing happens. I mean no alert, no notification, nothing. No matter what I do, I can't get it to select. I thought maybe my model is too large, so went back to the beginning and reduced as low of triangles as I could without loosing too much definition. What the heck do I do? I have a deadline to meet on this mold. Please help! Thanks
I see this video is a couple years old maybe some updates have changed some features. I have an .stl file that i import into fusion360 but it comes in as a mesh and won't allow me to combine the mesh body with the box I have drawn around it. Am I missing a step? Am I on the wrong video for what I want to do?
It will depend on how complex the mesh file is. What is the object? If there are too many triangle facets it won't work.
Could you automate this process if you needed to repeat it for different objects?
You would have to write a Script to automate.
How do I import the file and what type of file should I import. When I bring it in it is on edge and it shows up as "doughnut v1 (1):1" in the browser list in a different place from the Mold Box.
I have a feeling this is something simple you have already covered but I have been away from it for a while and can't figure out what is going on.
Thanks Kevin - good stuff!
Hi Doug.
1. Click on the doughnut file link a360.co/2qfRsZx
2. Click the blue download button. Select Fusion 360 Archive file type and then type out your email.
3. Download the file from your email link
4. Open up your data panel in Fusion 360 (grid icon in the upper lefthand corner) and then select the blue upload button.
5. Select the doughnut file from your downloads folder and then hit "upload." Once uploaded double click on the file to open it up.
Here's a video on uploading files - th-cam.com/video/TVD0YlfGjM0/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if this clears it up! Cheers, Kevin :)
That was interesting...I imported it and the did a drag and drop to the design panel. It came in exactly like the others - standing on the edge. Then I watched the video and tried double clicking instead of drag-and-drop and it was in the correct orientation. Why is that?
@@douggrant4008 I think I know what may be happening. What is your default modeling orientation? I'm guessing you have the Z-axis set to be up?
In the doughnut file, the Y-axis was set to up, which could explain why when you open the file it's sitting at the right orientation, but when you insert the doughnut into your current design the object is on its side.
Let me know if that was it! Cheers, Kevin :)
Yes, that is the problem. Is it better to leave it that way in Fusion360 and change it in the slicer, or should I change my preference in Fusion? Or, doesn't it really matter?
@@douggrant4008 It really doesn't matter. Fusion 360 used to have the default set to Y-up, however, they recently changed it to be Z-up. I try to stick with defaults so it is easy for everyone to follow along, but that's why my older tutorials will have Y-axis up and the latest ones have Z-up.
If you're mainly planning on 3D printing then it wouldn't hurt to have everything oriented with the Z-axis up... just one less step (rotating the model) when you get to your slicer. Cheers, Kevin :)
Did you make the doughnut using the sculpt workspace
Nope, it was made in Blender :)
Hey what about the part about print tolerence, we cant print exact dimensions and expect parts to fit
Hi Ardian - great question! For this demo the mold was just for fun, so I was not concerned about tolerances. If you're looking for exact dimensions then you will have to do some tests. The tolerances really depend on what type of 3D printer you're using, as they vary drastically from consumer level printers to commercial grade printers. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline thanks for the reply you're awesome! I was just hoping to maybe see which way you would go about it when it comes to modeling tolerences. My tolerance is 0.06mm
@@ardianmusliji8349 Unfortunately, Fusion 360 doesn't currently offer an easy way to do tolerances while using the split or combine tools. If you're planning on 3D printing, I actually recommend adding tolerances in your 3D printers slicing software by slightly scaling the mold. Alternatively, you can scale the object in Fusion 360 before you go to create the mold. Cheers, Kevin :)
You can set tolerance on cura and other slicers different on two half of object
Hello! By any chance someone has a video of how to do a mold flow simulation for the injection mold?
Thanks ^^
Hi, Arisbeth. Sorry, I don't have any at the moment. But that's an interesting topic to add to the list :)
Have u done a video on making a 3D mold on a sketch u drew? I made a sketch and loaded it to Fusion, I traced over the sketch and have the layout of the sketch from the drawing. Now I am trying to make a 2 piece mold of the sketch I can print with Fusion so I can inject with soft rubbery plastic so I can have what I created on the sketch.
How did you make the doughtnut though!?
It seems doughnut cannot be downloaded. So, instead I created a "torus", and start practicing with it. You create torus by clicking on "create" in the "solid" section and then finding torus. Also, I agree that it is necessary to create a hole for the air to come out, as I have watched a creation of a mold for a yacht keel, and the person doing it forgot to create this hole, and so there were problems pouring the molten lead into the mold. I suppose the air hole must be created on the same side as the hole for pouring the liquid (bottom), just at the opposite side and really small.
Hi, Kevin
11:11 I'm wondering what "registration keys" is
Great question, CHO성진. In mold-making, a registration key is a shape that is intentionally added to help ensure that all the parts of the mold line up correctly after taking it apart. It ensures that each time the mold pieces fit back together and that they don't slide apart in the mold making process (however, usually a rubber-band or latch is required to hold the pieces together).
One thing to note - in this video I simply made half spheres...but you could realistically make the registration keys any shape that allows one piece to be taken apart from another. Cheers, Kevin :)
Product Design Online
Thank you! I understand it
so useful information
@@devstefancho You're welcome :)
Running into sphere issue. Says visibility issue when I try to add those markers.
Make sure your body's folder is turned on in the Fusion 360 browser. That, or one of your components is turned off.
would it be a good idea to link the doughnut file?
Hi Marc, Here is the donut file: a360.co/2qfRsZx
Cheers, Kevin :)