Thanks Marc. After hour of trying to get me 4 jaw centered using the DIY method and the suggestion of a couple other TH-cam contributors, I followed your example and presto; took only about ten minutes. I know that's slow by comparison but it was my first time so I'm pretty proud of the accomplishment. I wanted to stop at .0005 runout but the temptation to get it zeroed was too much. That's probably why it took ten minutes.
Hi Marc, I am just starting your videos again for the second time. I watched them when I first started setting up my workshop as a newbie hobbyist machinist. Since then I have been able to familiarise myself with the Mill and lathe alot more. I have been buying these second hand and stripping them down to bare bones and rebuilding and replacing parts as needed. I have found this exceptionally satisfying as I feel more comfortable about the machines. Having said that I now understand more but going through your videos again is of great assistance and as always learn and consolidate more. Please keep them coming. Gordon, AUS
you are a legend marc. how helpful was that! just what i have been looking for. really helpful information. i knew it was here in youtube.. just no idea where to look sometimes.
Great tip I found, on the chuck key take out the bar and use hand grip strength to move the pair of jaws. When you have aligned all jaws, use the bar and nip up all jaws equally. Works alot easier with a range of people with different strengths, and avoids chasing zero.
Hi Marc, Would it any advantage to use a flat or slightly convex tip on the dial indicator to "average" the contact surface, rather than using the ball end which can "drop" into surface irregularities as the part is rotated? Cheers Eric
Thank you; great video. What about a round or non- round part, where a hole needs to be; how do you center no an existing feature? think cam lobe or a boss on a lathe slide nut
Hi Frederick! When centering from an existing feature it is best to just do as you would normally do but from the feature that you want centered. If you have a square shaft that is cylindrical on its end (turned down) just apply the dial indicator on the round section and center as if the whole part was cylindrical. When centering from a hole, just apply the dial indicator to the hole, and so on. Here is a link to one of my videos that might help. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc. th-cam.com/video/fnhXkQPwpyA/w-d-xo.html
bonjours M. lecuyer, que faite vous avec des surfaces irrégulières? lorsque la masse est décentré., le contrepoids est nécessaire pour pouvoir augmenter la vitesse. que faite vous a ce sujet. j'adore vos vidéos
What about a round in the jaws to cross drill the centre? I understand a 'V Centre Finder' might be the answer or a scalpel blade with the dead centre pressed up to it but if anyone can give me a method used to dial it in within a Thou, I'd be very happy to know.
Hm. Interesting problem! And two years later... after your project is finished... :) I have a thought or two. What about using the dial indicator near the center, against the "face" of the part, so that as you rotate the chuck, it rides up on the high points and down on sides a little bit? Then if it was centered, the low points along the sides would be the same. The further down the sides, the better. But I dunno -- that would be difficult on a small part, but might work on a bigger one, since you have to get the dial indicator down inside the jaws. Another idea comes to mind... put flat plates in there, clamped to the sides of the part by the jaws, and set the dial indicator on the inside faces of those? The low spots ("high" spots) would be the same if it was centered cross-wise. Centering length-wise could be done at the ends, of course.
One thing you can explain for me is that chuck guard. I've been doing machine work for 40 years and I've never seen one like that. If it is to help you remember to remove the chuck key then it looks like a bigger hazard than not having a chuck guard. thanks
I agree Richard, it is a sorry excuse of a chuck guard. The only thing that I like about it is that it gives you a good surface to lean your arm on when filing (for right handed people). Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, Marc L'Ecuyer
THATLAZYMACHINIST Just took the chuck guard off my lathe. It was built and installed several years ago to appease OSHA. It serves on use, wasn't used once in the ten years the lathe was in the shop. Removing it was my decision. You make your decision to remove it or not.
Hello mate nice video again why don't you just use two chuck key's to alter the jaws, I found it easier,only a novice with a hobby mind. I know there's probably something wrong doing that way just nobody has ever told me. Rob
It sure would speed things up when large adjustments are required. I alternate because I can better feel the tension on the jaws when I loosen and tighten. For safety, I always told my students to never leave a chuck key in the chuck, to never let go of the chuck key until it is deposited in a safe place, to always hold the chuck key with the same hand and to always start the machine with the hand that you use to hold the chuck key. Thanks for taking the time to watch and to comment my videos and happy machining. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
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An excellent explanation of how to center on a 4 jaw chuck. Thank you for taking the time to be clear and concise.
Thanks Marc. After hour of trying to get me 4 jaw centered using the DIY method and the suggestion of a couple other TH-cam contributors, I followed your example and presto; took only about ten minutes. I know that's slow by comparison but it was my first time so I'm pretty proud of the accomplishment. I wanted to stop at .0005 runout but the temptation to get it zeroed was too much. That's probably why it took ten minutes.
Wow that guard on the lathe is the most crazy thing i have ever seen, bordering on dangerous.
Hi Marc, I am just starting your videos again for the second time. I watched them when I first started setting up my workshop as a newbie hobbyist machinist. Since then I have been able to familiarise myself with the Mill and lathe alot more. I have been buying these second hand and stripping them down to bare bones and rebuilding and replacing parts as needed. I have found this exceptionally satisfying as I feel more comfortable about the machines. Having said that I now understand more but going through your videos again is of great assistance and as always learn and consolidate more. Please keep them coming. Gordon, AUS
Thanks Marc. I just dialed in my first first four jaw chuck. Yay!
Mike in Whitby
simple and best explanation I have ever seen.
Thanks
Excellent travail, comme d'habitude. Merci beaucoup.
Thanks again! Very well done Chazz
you are a legend marc. how helpful was that! just what i have been looking for. really helpful information. i knew it was here in youtube.. just no idea where to look sometimes.
Thanks so much for your sharing this an excellent video training
Great tutorial Sir, many thanks from Ireland
Great tip I found, on the chuck key take out the bar and use hand grip strength to move the pair of jaws. When you have aligned all jaws, use the bar and nip up all jaws equally. Works alot easier with a range of people with different strengths, and avoids chasing zero.
Thank you, excellent video. 🇳🇿
This is helpful to me.
Thanks this helped
Great thanks
Thank you
Dear Marc, thank you very much
Lesson: 58
Hi Marc,
Would it any advantage to use a flat or slightly convex tip on the dial indicator to "average" the contact surface, rather than using the ball end which can "drop" into surface irregularities as the part is rotated?
Cheers Eric
Do mini lathes have a neutral on the spindle as well so I can turn the chuck manually by hand?
Yeah just take it out of gear
Thank you; great video. What about a round or non- round part, where a hole needs to be; how do you center no an existing feature? think cam lobe or a boss on a lathe slide nut
Hi Frederick! When centering from an existing feature it is best to just do as you would normally do but from the feature that you want centered. If you have a square shaft that is cylindrical on its end (turned down) just apply the dial indicator on the round section and center as if the whole part was cylindrical. When centering from a hole, just apply the dial indicator to the hole, and so on. Here is a link to one of my videos that might help. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc. th-cam.com/video/fnhXkQPwpyA/w-d-xo.html
Although I have a 4-jaw chuck, I'm currently using s 3-jaw chuck. Nevertheless this video will help with centering my workpieces.
bonjours M. lecuyer, que faite vous avec des surfaces irrégulières? lorsque la masse est décentré., le contrepoids est nécessaire pour pouvoir augmenter la vitesse. que faite vous a ce sujet. j'adore vos vidéos
fantastic i was doing so well UNTIL that bloody square bar he he good job i dont have any
Dont forget to give it the ol' once-o-round
What about a round in the jaws to cross drill the centre? I understand a 'V Centre Finder' might be the answer or a scalpel blade with the dead centre pressed up to it but if anyone can give me a method used to dial it in within a Thou, I'd be very happy to know.
Hm. Interesting problem! And two years later... after your project is finished... :) I have a thought or two.
What about using the dial indicator near the center, against the "face" of the part, so that as you rotate the chuck, it rides up on the high points and down on sides a little bit? Then if it was centered, the low points along the sides would be the same. The further down the sides, the better. But I dunno -- that would be difficult on a small part, but might work on a bigger one, since you have to get the dial indicator down inside the jaws.
Another idea comes to mind... put flat plates in there, clamped to the sides of the part by the jaws, and set the dial indicator on the inside faces of those? The low spots ("high" spots) would be the same if it was centered cross-wise. Centering length-wise could be done at the ends, of course.
One thing you can explain for me is that chuck guard. I've been doing machine work for 40 years and I've never seen one like that. If it is to help you remember to remove the chuck key then it looks like a bigger hazard than not having a chuck guard. thanks
I agree Richard, it is a sorry excuse of a chuck guard. The only thing that I like about it is that it gives you a good surface to lean your arm on when filing (for right handed people). Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, Marc L'Ecuyer
THATLAZYMACHINIST Just took the chuck guard off my lathe. It was built and installed several years ago to appease OSHA. It serves on use, wasn't used once in the ten years the lathe was in the shop. Removing it was my decision. You make your decision to remove it or not.
never worked with a guard. didn't know they existed lmao. all machines were 80s and below.
Think "school". Think "random collection of students." :)
Here is me at 2:30
yeah, I did notice another old guy in the video...:-)
i used to get mad as hell about that tiny jerk in the needles like i was messing up lmao. I was only 16
+Anthony Bursie Thanks for watching Anthony! Marc
+THATLAZYMACHINIST no problem need to refresh my skills. you are helping me out brother.
Hello mate nice video again why don't you just use two chuck key's to alter the jaws, I found it easier,only a novice with a hobby mind. I know there's probably something wrong doing that way just nobody has ever told me. Rob
It sure would speed things up when large adjustments are required. I alternate because I can better feel the tension on the jaws when I loosen and tighten. For safety, I always told my students to never leave a chuck key in the chuck, to never let go of the chuck key until it is deposited in a safe place, to always hold the chuck key with the same hand and to always start the machine with the hand that you use to hold the chuck key. Thanks for taking the time to watch and to comment my videos and happy machining. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
Poor sound quality (to much echo)
So... I guess the rule is... don't record machine work in a machine shop? :)
The echo in your shop makes it very difficult to hear exactly what you’re saying… :-/
Sound is awful
do some work on your audio it sucks