With a different track and skis, you'll be able to skip short stretches of water with that sled! I had an '82 Polaris TXL 340 as a kid, always wanted a '92 Indy 440. Keep the 90's sleds running. New snowmobiles are way too expensive today. Congrats on the find.
You got a good deal getting that for free . Those 440 back in the day were great sleds. It’s worth fixing and keeping. Definitely need to check suspension and those idler wheels might be seized up.
I used to take all three of mine, 340 Indy, 440 Indy, and XCR600 Polaris, pull the entire suspension frame assembly out and Grease or replace all the bearings, every year! I took mine on 100 to 200 mile trips in North Michigan and that’s last thing I want is something to break down cause of lack of maintenance!
I got the same sled (a 1992) for $500 bucks a couple years ago, just turned 5,000 miles on the all original engine (over 1,000 are on me). It's still fun to rip around town. Had to bypass the key ignition on it; seafoam, new fuel lines & filter, cleaned clutches and a new belt is it all it took. She's on her third season as a wood hauler and trail groomer now.
I ended up getting my 1995 Indy440 for 400$ as a non-runner, so yes you got a sweet ride for what you have in it. Incidentally I disconnected that same wire and the engine fired right up. Traced down the issue and found the ignition switch wire was shorted to ground. Fixed and had it working perfectly in minutes. Also, I added a tether switch (something I think all sleds should have). I have put some work and money into this sled, but it has been worth it. All in all, I probably have about 1000$ total invested in this machine (including the sled itself). To me, it is worth every penny I have spent on it.
Couldn't tell by your video whether you cleaned those Rusty clutch shafts . If that rust was not cleaned up that could be causing it to engage improperly. Looks like you got to rev it up quite high and all the sudden the track engages and gets you stuck. Also that rust will destroy bushings as they slide over top of it. Wouldn't cost you anything to run Scotch-Brite over it. Even fine sandpGrit. 2000 grit. You'll have to pull the 6 bolts and get the cover off . Mark it so it goes on the same way.
Great video! One other thing to check is rust on the bottom of the skis, they might not slide hood causing you to get stuck. Give them a good coat of paint or some plastic ski skins or get some newer skis
Plastic ski skins are good or plastic skis. You could wire brush and paint the ski bottoms, but the paint will wear off too eventually. But yeah just run it they will polish up. Don't run intensely down a gravel road because that will be hard on track clips and hyfax, but doing it some won't hurt. Most snowmobiles have some idler wheels on the skid rails to take some pressure off the hyfax when crossing roads and stuff. I have seen so many leave their snoscooters outside sitting on the ground. That's hard on them. Skis, suspensions & tracks especially, not to mention the seats and plastics. Best to keep them in a building if possible, otherwise put them on some wood blocks or something to keep them off the ground and throw a cover on them. I have an old Indy XCR that still looks good because it's always been shredded.
Yes, lean enough to seize a piston. Could go up a size or two on the jetting without the air box. But the air box does help prevent debris from getting sucked into the engine too, although it's not a good filter in itself.
Nice work for a first timer! I have two 94s (xlt special and 500 efi) and a 97 trail. They are all good for different reasons. Those 440 are fun too, and great for kids or beginners. The sugary drift snow is rough on the evolved chassis with short tracks and short lugs though. It should do just fine on the trails with those trail studs.
I imagine the bottom of the skis are pretty rusty so they drag alot. Running it some, even down a gravel road for a little bit would polish them up. Also its newer than a 94, ive got one. 1980 to about 1998 or so is whats called the Indy wedge models. That one isn't a wedge, its the next generation, closer to a 2000 model. Too bad it sat unused outside for so long, that is really hard on them.
Ever find out what the wire was that had to be removed from the stator? Working on sleds sure is different. I couldn’t get the steering rod off a Rev XP until i figured out it’s reverse threaded. Good times.
Other issues can be the bearings in all the bogie wheels in the track. Replace all of those as that can cause resistance to the track and clutch. Grease all the drivetrain fittings. As mentioned above, that clutch is really hurting you in deep snow with it not engaging correctly. Good thing the engine sounds great.
You do need to check the bearings on ALL of the idler wheels. Critically important are the bearings in the wheels at the back of the track. These wheels tension the track and these wheels bear significant load. When one or more of the bearings inside these track tension wheels go bad the wheel itself will fly off a seized bearing and real good chance of tearing the track now presents itself. You will Not know when the wheel is gone. You will know when the track tears. If you have not already done so then grease Every fitting in the skid. The skid is the assembly that lives inside the track. Grease the bearing fitting behind the secondary clutch. Check your sliders. They are the plastic runners that the skid sits on that also runs low friction on the bottom inside of the track. Please check the fluid in the chain case. Maybe change this fluid, the fluid is not expensive and you can check the chain tension while you are changing the fluid. Great job resurrecting that Polaris. When running well it should do about 70 MPH or approx. 110 KMH on hardpacked snow. P.S. Did you check the bottom of the skis? Look see if you have any mud/debris on the ski bottom and if there is Any skeg left showing for which to steer on hard pack. In the Summer a guy could/should pull the seat off and let it drip dry for what may be many many days.
Thanks! I did grease all of the fittings, and the sliders under the skid are in good shape, idler wheels no clue. 70mph is pretty impressive! Thanks for the tips, more to look at!
great machines. sounds like its lugging a bit. A new belt would make a huge difference. If theres any rust on the bottom of the skies will really hold you back. Rust on the track clips will slow it down too but that will come off after some good rips. looks like you check all the boxes. as others have mentioned, the chaincase should have a going over as well. nice work, youve got yourself a solid little machine for cheap
Wow, the sled sounds like it runs great! I can completely relate to this video. I made an eerily similar video reviving a Puma 340 I got for free. I, too, have a very mechanical background, but had never messed with a sled before. Now I might be hooked. You have a new subscriber here as well. Keep them coming!
Nice job! You might want to check the coil springs in the clutch assembly and make sure they're not broken. It could be the cause of late engagement and lack of low end torque.
Engagement rpm sounds about right. 4,000-5,000 or so. Should rev close to 8,000 wide open. But yeah I'm sure the clutchs could stand to be gone through.
tie rods probably frozen. upgrade to a Cobra Pull Cord. Change the water pump belt. clean clutches with some sand paper. change the cam rollers on the secondary. NGK-BR9ES spark plugs. check the oil injection, maybe block it off and pre mix cause that could be froze up.
Naw, it would have already seized up if the oil injection didn't work. Oil injection is the best thing that ever happened for a two cycle engine! Why would you want to disable it? My family used to have a dealership and I've worked on sleds and stuff for years, I can't remember an oil pump outright failing. It's usually running them out of oil or cracked, plugged oil lines, cable unhooked or broken or misadjustment or something like that.
Clean the clutches properly. I bet money your pins are rusted to the weights and dirty asf. Don't ever out graphite on clutches. Just clean them. Put it in the dish washer
Ya you’re probably right. Graphite in the clutch was really more of a Hail Mary than maintenance. Now that I know it runs well I’ll have to add clutch service to my “do eventually” list. Cheers!
Seems like it's struggling with the track, would be quite telling how it's performing if you throttle it out on a lake. And whilst I'm no expert, I'm quite sure it shouldn't be getting stuck like that with so little snow.
После такого простоя часто ржавеют подшипники коленвала и нижний подшипник шатуна, причем цилиндры зачастую в нормальном состоянии... Сальники коленвала скорее всего рассохлись и подлежат замене (надо опрессовать). В общем далеко от дома я бы не уезжал до полной ревизии.
Make you check the water pump on those because it's so old those seals dry rott , I bet you'll end up replacing g the water pump that's if you can find one and they don't make rebuild kits either
@EricFB moat of thebtine they don't leak the motor will just over heat its eternal seals, it's kind of shitty design if yibask me I bought 3 used sleds and every pump owner bad on me in 99 to 97 sleds
There's no reason why that sled shouldn't go through that snow. The belt could be too loose, should be 1 1/4" after you push down on it. Could be a track tension, alignment. Should grease all the track and steering column.
@@MidnightPolaris800 it’s on the to-do list. So far found one missing bolt in the skid. Going to pull it all apart. I love how ugly it is, would be great to have it rolling a touch better.
You shuld get some plastic on the skies, if you run with bare metall you will only get stuck, snow and ice will stick to them all the time, its not usable :)
Manufacturers think people are just going to ride them for a few years and throw them away and buy a new one so they don't make them to last they hope you're going to throw it away and rebuy another they don't anticipate people liking in rebuilding. They think you're going to throw it away and buy a new
@@EricFBYou will only get stuck with rusty metall skies, its called skies for a reason :) They shuld slide on the snow, not plow the snow. Best thing is to get some cheap plastic skins to mount on them, no one rides with metall skies. Ornif if u want problems, u can😄
Pick me dude! But there's a reasons. I use them every day because I'm a semi retired life long mechanic by trade. Yes they are darn expensive but they are dependable and work/fit in places where others won't. With an excellent warranty if we ever need it. I have had very few snap on tools that ever needed to be warranted. Also they make many tools, some are specialized, that mechanics need, that you won't find at the big discount stores and stuff.
Additionally, I have way more than $10,000. invested in tools. My big box alone was that much and I have several boxes lol But like I said it is a lifelong investment that has made me a decent living.
Episode 2: th-cam.com/video/9-RpP32uFgQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CCP072rkdU9f_kYn
With a different track and skis, you'll be able to skip short stretches of water with that sled! I had an '82 Polaris TXL 340 as a kid, always wanted a '92 Indy 440. Keep the 90's sleds running. New snowmobiles are way too expensive today. Congrats on the find.
The amount of sarcasm is astonishing. I love it.
You got a good deal getting that for free . Those 440 back in the day were great sleds. It’s worth fixing and keeping. Definitely need to check suspension and those idler wheels might be seized up.
Thanks man. Ya those idler wheels will be the next thing I address. Cheers!
Take a look at your chain case. Good idea to change the oil in it. Lube up the jackshaft. And and keep an eye on your idler wheel bearings. Nice work!
Thanks!
I used to take all three of mine, 340 Indy, 440 Indy, and XCR600 Polaris, pull the entire suspension frame assembly out and Grease or replace all the bearings, every year! I took mine on 100 to 200 mile trips in North Michigan and that’s last thing I want is something to break down cause of lack of maintenance!
Keep up the great work! I think u did great so far. For the first sled it was great. Can’t wait till your next winter project.
I got the same sled (a 1992) for $500 bucks a couple years ago, just turned 5,000 miles on the all original engine (over 1,000 are on me). It's still fun to rip around town. Had to bypass the key ignition on it; seafoam, new fuel lines & filter, cleaned clutches and a new belt is it all it took. She's on her third season as a wood hauler and trail groomer now.
@@GreatWhiteNorthAK That’s awesome! Love it.
I ended up getting my 1995 Indy440 for 400$ as a non-runner, so yes you got a sweet ride for what you have in it. Incidentally I disconnected that same wire and the engine fired right up. Traced down the issue and found the ignition switch wire was shorted to ground. Fixed and had it working perfectly in minutes. Also, I added a tether switch (something I think all sleds should have).
I have put some work and money into this sled, but it has been worth it. All in all, I probably have about 1000$ total invested in this machine (including the sled itself). To me, it is worth every penny I have spent on it.
Thanks! Yes I do agree about the tether, I’ve got one in a box somewhere to be installed. Cheers!
Couldn't tell by your video whether you cleaned those Rusty clutch shafts . If that rust was not cleaned up that could be causing it to engage improperly. Looks like you got to rev it up quite high and all the sudden the track engages and gets you stuck. Also that rust will destroy bushings as they slide over top of it. Wouldn't cost you anything to run Scotch-Brite over it. Even fine sandpGrit. 2000 grit. You'll have to pull the 6 bolts and get the cover off . Mark it so it goes on the same way.
New belt and a stand would do ya good. Gotta warm up track and belt.i also suggest that you put that air box back on also.
Great video! One other thing to check is rust on the bottom of the skis, they might not slide hood causing you to get stuck. Give them a good coat of paint or some plastic ski skins or get some newer skis
Good idea, cheers!
Or just ride it on or alongside some gravel roads. They'll polish up.
Get plastic, metall is only one big forever problem.
@@EricFBBad fix buddy.
Plastic ski skins are good or plastic skis. You could wire brush and paint the ski bottoms, but the paint will wear off too eventually. But yeah just run it they will polish up. Don't run intensely down a gravel road because that will be hard on track clips and hyfax, but doing it some won't hurt. Most snowmobiles have some idler wheels on the skid rails to take some pressure off the hyfax when crossing roads and stuff.
I have seen so many leave their snoscooters outside sitting on the ground. That's hard on them. Skis, suspensions & tracks especially, not to mention the seats and plastics. Best to keep them in a building if possible, otherwise put them on some wood blocks or something to keep them off the ground and throw a cover on them. I have an old Indy XCR that still looks good because it's always been shredded.
When you get done rebuilding the fuel pump make sure to reinstall the air box. They tend to run lean without it.
Will do thanks for the tip!
Yes, lean enough to seize a piston. Could go up a size or two on the jetting without the air box. But the air box does help prevent debris from getting sucked into the engine too, although it's not a good filter in itself.
They run rich without an airbox, not lean
@@MidnightPolaris800
You got that right. My IQ shift 550. Was running way
Too rich. Now it is
Running the way it
Suppose to
@@MidnightPolaris800 sorry, but nope, that leans them out, be carefull.
Nice work for a first timer! I have two 94s (xlt special and 500 efi) and a 97 trail. They are all good for different reasons. Those 440 are fun too, and great for kids or beginners. The sugary drift snow is rough on the evolved chassis with short tracks and short lugs though. It should do just fine on the trails with those trail studs.
I imagine the bottom of the skis are pretty rusty so they drag alot. Running it some, even down a gravel road for a little bit would polish them up. Also its newer than a 94, ive got one. 1980 to about 1998 or so is whats called the Indy wedge models. That one isn't a wedge, its the next generation, closer to a 2000 model. Too bad it sat unused outside for so long, that is really hard on them.
Ever find out what the wire was that had to be removed from the stator? Working on sleds sure is different. I couldn’t get the steering rod off a Rev XP until i figured out it’s reverse threaded. Good times.
Why didn't you use the caliper to measure starter rope
That was good for the crank bearings when you hit the puller repeatedly 😂😂😂
Yeah but sometimes it's the only way they will come off! Been there done that.
@oneninerniner3427 there are several ways to get the clutch off other than hitting the puller lmao😂
Other issues can be the bearings in all the bogie wheels in the track. Replace all of those as that can cause resistance to the track and clutch. Grease all the drivetrain fittings. As mentioned above, that clutch is really hurting you in deep snow with it not engaging correctly. Good thing the engine sounds great.
You do need to check the bearings on ALL of the idler wheels. Critically important are the bearings in the wheels at the back of the track. These wheels tension the track and these wheels bear significant load. When one or more of the bearings inside these track tension wheels go bad the wheel itself will fly off a seized bearing and real good chance of tearing the track now presents itself. You will Not know when the wheel is gone. You will know when the track tears.
If you have not already done so then grease Every fitting in the skid. The skid is the assembly that lives inside the track. Grease the bearing fitting behind the secondary clutch. Check your sliders. They are the plastic runners that the skid sits on that also runs low friction on the bottom inside of the track.
Please check the fluid in the chain case. Maybe change this fluid, the fluid is not expensive and you can check the chain tension while you are changing the fluid.
Great job resurrecting that Polaris. When running well it should do about 70 MPH or approx. 110 KMH on hardpacked snow.
P.S. Did you check the bottom of the skis? Look see if you have any mud/debris on the ski bottom and if there is Any skeg left showing for which to steer on hard pack.
In the Summer a guy could/should pull the seat off and let it drip dry for what may be many many days.
Thanks! I did grease all of the fittings, and the sliders under the skid are in good shape, idler wheels no clue. 70mph is pretty impressive! Thanks for the tips, more to look at!
great machines. sounds like its lugging a bit. A new belt would make a huge difference. If theres any rust on the bottom of the skies will really hold you back. Rust on the track clips will slow it down too but that will come off after some good rips. looks like you check all the boxes. as others have mentioned, the chaincase should have a going over as well. nice work, youve got yourself a solid little machine for cheap
Wow, the sled sounds like it runs great! I can completely relate to this video. I made an eerily similar video reviving a Puma 340 I got for free. I, too, have a very mechanical background, but had never messed with a sled before. Now I might be hooked. You have a new subscriber here as well. Keep them coming!
oh the memories. I spent alot of my teenage years on that same sled.
Put the breather box on if it isn't. i know this is an old video but for the future you need those on
hey if your in canada which province?
I think you might have to grease the jackshaft on that on the secondary clutch
it would probably run a lot better with the airbox on it. Sounds like it needs a good clutch rebuild.
Nice job! You might want to check the coil springs in the clutch assembly and make sure they're not broken. It could be the cause of late engagement and lack of low end torque.
Engagement rpm sounds about right. 4,000-5,000 or so. Should rev close to 8,000 wide open. But yeah I'm sure the clutchs could stand to be gone through.
tie rods probably frozen. upgrade to a Cobra Pull Cord. Change the water pump belt. clean clutches with some sand paper. change the cam rollers on the secondary. NGK-BR9ES spark plugs. check the oil injection, maybe block it off and pre mix cause that could be froze up.
Naw, it would have already seized up if the oil injection didn't work. Oil injection is the best thing that ever happened for a two cycle engine! Why would you want to disable it? My family used to have a dealership and I've worked on sleds and stuff for years, I can't remember an oil pump outright failing. It's usually running them out of oil or cracked, plugged oil lines, cable unhooked or broken or misadjustment or something like that.
I ❤these polaris motors I have a 500 indy almost exactly like barely ever break down they're almost bullet proof
I need adjust suspension in the back of the snowmobile
Love the vid.. more videos on the 440 indy.🎉
Thanks!
I've got one identical except mine is mint compared to yours. Excellent machines and super reliable.
You must either live in Canada or close to the border here in the States.
Clean the clutches properly. I bet money your pins are rusted to the weights and dirty asf. Don't ever out graphite on clutches. Just clean them. Put it in the dish washer
Ya you’re probably right. Graphite in the clutch was really more of a Hail Mary than maintenance. Now that I know it runs well I’ll have to add clutch service to my “do eventually” list. Cheers!
They usually clean up good.
Nice work!!
Seems like it's struggling with the track, would be quite telling how it's performing if you throttle it out on a lake. And whilst I'm no expert, I'm quite sure it shouldn't be getting stuck like that with so little snow.
Replacing the track will help too.
No doubt, once I find a decent used one I’d like to rebuild the whole suspension. Cheers!
I fixed my streeing. Cut off the and made new steel plate drill holes welded.a pipe on plate
После такого простоя часто ржавеют подшипники коленвала и нижний подшипник шатуна, причем цилиндры зачастую в нормальном состоянии... Сальники коленвала скорее всего рассохлись и подлежат замене (надо опрессовать). В общем далеко от дома я бы не уезжал до полной ревизии.
Wish i could find sleds like these to fix up but everyone thinks their junk is worth its weight in gold nowadays.
Yes they sure do. I got lucky with my generous friend, not so much looking for an old Elan. So far… Cheers!
Make you check the water pump on those because it's so old those seals dry rott , I bet you'll end up replacing g the water pump that's if you can find one and they don't make rebuild kits either
@@Brothercat2011 Already leaking, but at the O-ring not the pulley seal. Hopefully she holds with silicone!
@EricFB moat of thebtine they don't leak the motor will just over heat its eternal seals, it's kind of shitty design if yibask me I bought 3 used sleds and every pump owner bad on me in 99 to 97 sleds
That’s a clutch problem, that’s not enough snow to get stuck in really. Not even a foot deep! That sled should rocket through that!
Im from Ontario is Never get a Polaris I always had problems with them. The best sled out there is a 03 to 06 arctic cat firecat f6 to f7 efi
Great sleeds. That chassis is terrible for getting stuck. If you ever decide.... get a Polaris edge chassis. They are the best.
"dinosaur juice" 🤣🤣
It shouldn’t get stuck in that little amount of snow. Clean the rust off the ski bottoms.
Like to kill switch wire trick have to try on my488 Polaris
Just adjust your throttle cable correctly and you wont have to.
There's no reason why that sled shouldn't go through that snow. The belt could be too loose, should be 1 1/4" after you push down on it.
Could be a track tension, alignment.
Should grease all the track and steering column.
Egagement 3800 to 4000 redline 7800 8000 idle 1500 to 1750
Good to know! I’ll take a look and see how far off I am
Best price. Your rear suspension needs to be gone through. Theres too much resistance when you take off
@@MidnightPolaris800 it’s on the to-do list. So far found one missing bolt in the skid. Going to pull it all apart. I love how ugly it is, would be great to have it rolling a touch better.
You shuld get some plastic on the skies, if you run with bare metall you will only get stuck, snow and ice will stick to them all the time, its not usable :)
Thanks for the tip :)
Beauty vid. Just subscibed. 🤟
Impressive!
stay clear of that un guarded belt.......nasty when they break.
You gained a new sub
Probably just could have taken the clutch plate off and sprayed with brake cleaner, rather than removing whole thing...
Not to be rude that sled ment fir packed trail
Nice 👍
Awesome 😎
Not a fast sled but a decent trail sled
It's a trail sled not made for deep snow
Sand the bottoms of the skis and repaint them and maybe you won't get stuck so much, worked for me!
Just slapped some ski skins on, waiting on snow to test them out ;)
Manufacturers think people are just going to ride them for a few years and throw them away and buy a new one so they don't make them to last they hope you're going to throw it away and rebuy another they don't anticipate people liking in rebuilding. They think you're going to throw it away and buy a new
rusty ski bottoms...and you have to keep going more throttle
They are rusty but wasn’t sure it would matter. Makes sense, thanks man!
@@EricFBYou will only get stuck with rusty metall skies, its called skies for a reason :) They shuld slide on the snow, not plow the snow. Best thing is to get some cheap plastic skins to mount on them, no one rides with metall skies. Ornif if u want problems, u can😄
the guy that has $10,000 in snap on tools only has $10 in drill bits. I always wondered who those people are that waste their money on snap on.
😂 My $30 set is at the cottage
Pick me dude! But there's a reasons. I use them every day because I'm a semi retired life long mechanic by trade. Yes they are darn expensive but they are dependable and work/fit in places where others won't. With an excellent warranty if we ever need it. I have had very few snap on tools that ever needed to be warranted. Also they make many tools, some are specialized, that mechanics need, that you won't find at the big discount stores and stuff.
Additionally, I have way more than $10,000. invested in tools. My big box alone was that much and I have several boxes lol But like I said it is a lifelong investment that has made me a decent living.
They were not made and designed to last for 30 years... guys u made it last for 30 plus
Take the latex gloves off get your hands dirty 😂
Track prolly won't last long.
Your track is pretty bald you should get a new one and who knows you won't get stuck so much
I got some ski skins for it, hoping that’ll help it get rolling a bit easier otherwise I might be looking for a new-used track. Cheers!
If it's free nothin
poolaris