This was a really excellent video. There are so many nonsense videos about sailing but this one really imparts key bit of knowledge about how a rig should be set up and how stay-lock fitting work. Please keep these more technical videos coming.
Jade, is such a man of few words, but each one means something. Soooooo! Professional. "Silence is golden" I live my life on the premise, that " when all is said, there is more said than done". In today's society, people yap, yap, yap. Just a lot of unnecessary noise pollution. Good rigger choice Steve & Judy
An interesting video. I replaced all the standing rigging on my Rustler 36 also using StaLok fittings. Replacement is an easy DIY job, as you have the old shrouds/stays as templates. Also worth noting that p and s rigging must be exactly the same length, but that small differences (up to 5 mm) between old and new are not so critical, as there is a degree of adjustment with the rigging screws. It would have been good to show how the wires were cut to length. I used a block of oak, drilled with 8mm and 10mm holes, then cut a slot at right angle down to the level of the holes, wide enough for a normal hacksaw. Measure the distance from insertion point to slot to allow for an offset. This gives a really clean cut. I used the same block to fit a friend’s inner forestay. I was a little surprised that you didn’t remove any chainplates. The area where corrosion occurs is the invisible one where it passes through the deck. Some chainplates can be difficult to remove as builders love to clad them with lining, but if you are going to cross an ocean, you must be able to remove them. An effective check, used in the heavy lift industry, is to hang the chainplate from a screwdriver through, first the hole for the clevis pin, then the hole for the bottom bolt. Strike other end of the chainplate with a metal hammer. A clear, bell-like tone means that there is no corrosion between the suspended hole and the rest of the chainplate. A dull “clunk” means replace! No chance of mistaking, as the difference is obvious to even the most unmusical ear.
Thanks Steve, really clear and useful. One small point - you and others mentioned dyneema - one should remember the inverted thermodynamic properties in that dyneema elongates when cold and shines when hot - so one must have the opposing stay or shroud made of the same material - furler with steel forestay needs a steel backstay; damage a steel shroud and change to dyneema in an emergency - change on both sides and any opposing stay - ie baby stay and check stays. Cheers
Yes I talked about exactly that in an interview with Herby (Rigging Doctor) a couple of years ago. As you say keeping opposing supports in the same material is vital.
Very good content in both these videos part 1 and part 2 very informational thank you very much appreciate it please do follow through with the final tuning I'm sure there's a lot of people out there that would enjoy it
Thanks Steve for this very thorough and practical look at rigging and re-rigging. Amazing how every time anyone looks at the good gear, Selden is always right up there!
Thanks for a very informative and enjoyable video, Steve. I learn something every time I watch you and Judy and especially from the tech video's. Based on your feedback and Jade's obvious skill and professionalism, I've been talking with him to replace my standing rigging. You can't beat informed, word of mouth (and in this case, visual) recommendations. Thanks again for sharing these video's with us.
Once again an excellent all points covered pair of articles. Mostly common sense but great to get those nuggets from jade. I’m always amazed when doing a pre delivery rig check how many split pins are upside down, wearing due to the Clovis pins too small or poorly toggled or just plain missing. Excellent training vid for sta-lock fittings too boot. Bring on dynamic tuning and keep up the intro music 👏👏
People have used laser tape measure devices to measure up for rigging lengths. It might be possible to use a laser tape measure to check furler forestay tension. The change in total forestay straight line length to get the sag to a ballpark value would be less than 1mm. The total forestay straight line length change to set 15% of breaking strain tension would be about 15 mm to get a forestay sag of around 70 mm so it seems to me that it might be possible to get a fairly accurate number for the headstay tension with a furler fitted using a laser measurer version of the Selden 2 metre rule method. Edit - Looks like we don't need a laser thing. Can just measure the length change at the tensioning device. I'm going to look at the numbers related to sag / catenary induced tension etc first to see how accurate the method would be but it does look like it might be enough to determine a good wire tension number. The effect of sag change on tensioning length change change should be relatively small & if friction in the tightening device screw were to be reduced considerably with lubricant then it might be possible to also use a torque wrench approach to measuring tension in the forestay. Using a combination might help with improving accuracy so some oil, a spring balance to check force applied to the adjustable spanners & measuring bottle screw length change might do the trick. I've just got to work out the expected adjustable spanner torque numbers for the low friction & unlubricated conditions. So the numbers might look like 7 NM to 40 NM - from minimum to 15% tension. Could use a torque wrench with a crows foot spanner with length change max 40mm & the real numbers if recorded would be very repeatable as the tension increase is gradual & linear.
Started watching your channel and love the mix of topics. In particular the technical corner with its tips and walk though of the process. All in all very informative and well made videos. Only feedback is that’s it’s not always easy to find the right sequence of videos (ie sails before the rigging videos). It’s a shame TH-cam isn’t better at grouping and managing content eg having categories or folder.
Glad you like the videos. There are ‘playlists’ on our YT channel where tech videos - episodes - product reviews etc are grouped together. I should probably go through and make some sub groups now like electronics - rigging etc, but it may help find things a bit
@@svfairislethank you, learn something new everyday! Sorry, but I haven’t caught up yet. Have you started your Atlantic crossing or are you waiting in the Canneries? Also, have you done a video on your planned circumnavigation route? Appreciate it may change, but interest in the route from Panama across the Pacific, where you will sit out the Hurricane/ Cyclone seasons and whether you are planning to coming up through Suez or down around Cape of Good Hope?
@@davidllewelyn We are currently anchored in the South of Gran Canaria having sailed down today. If the wind is good tomorrow which it should be we will head off to The Gambia which will take around a week, maybe 8 days. From there it’s the Cape Verds and the Southern Caribbean where we will stay for the hurricanes season then head up the next year and see how for up the US eastern seaboard we can get in the summer. Then the Bahamas & after that not sure!
Great. Ideo.. It’s worth mentioning that he put thread locker on the Sta-Lok before pre assembly in order to lubricate the threads and avoid the stainless terminal from jamming.. which is a common thing on really large diameter wires..
There are some big advantages to going synthetic, weight aloft being the big one. It’s also stronger and easier to see if there’s and damage happening ( the dyneema will go fuzzy if it’s chafing) It would have required a lot of thought with termination’s though and you do have the downside of thermal expansion/ contraction with temperature so you have to devise a was to easily tension you rig. The reason we didn’t go for it though is we have furling headsails. Going synthetic would mean going slab reefed and that’s just too much work to sail.
Best not to add it all up! We did okay though as we got a good discount on the Furlex at the boat show which was £7,000 full price. The standing rigging was about the same again and we did get a bit of a discount from Stay lok
S & J, on your sailmaker choice, I have inquired with Precision Sails about junk sails for my 60 ft schooner SV Spice of Life. They have replied never made any, but I will follow up with them when required. Thanks
Yes I can see the problem with a junk rigged boat, the system they have come up with relies on you filling out their on line form with all the relevant measurements, they would need to come up with a form for a gaff rigged boat. But they are very accommodating & nice guys so if you hit them at a time when they’re not snowed under I sure they would rise to the challenge!
@@svfairisle Steve, a gaff is very different than a junk, but I get your reference. I am moored across the strait about 25 miles from Precision's loft, so I could bring my current junk sails to them. Thanks for your input. Bye the way, as a yacht broker, I wonder if you and Judy realize that all of your maintenance and upgrade videos, are actually an online pre-purchase survey documentary for the next buyer, when you decide to sell Fair Isle. It will be an easy sale, because the demand will be huge, especially the prestige of owning the former vessel of the famous documentary film makers, Judy and Steve.
When there's any sign of deterioration. The chain plates go through the deck, which I dont like I prefer when they are on the outside of the hull. So the place where they will suffer will be as they pass through the deck. To be 100% sure you would pull the plates, but I have clear sight of them as the come through the deck on the inside and there is not, and has never been, any sign of water/rust staining. I've also pulled the bolts which were all pristine. So the chances of any of the plates having a problem are pretty much zero so I'm happy to leave them be for now.
Always rake first then bend. Confusing I know as it’s often called prebend! Basically you are lengthening the forestay to get rake before everything in tightened up. Fair Isle is just about 1 degree a morn modern rig, fractional or with swept back spreaders might have much more. But really you want as much rake as gives you the right amount of weather helm ie enough to turn you slowly up wind in 10 knows of breeze or give a small pull on the gusts. You will have a couple of degrees of rudder loading if this is correct. Then introducing some bend will help the shape of the sail. Again generally rigs with swept back spreaders tend to have more, but it’s all about how the sail is cut ( what the sailmaker was expecting ) so as Jade said, just go sailing and look. More mast bend flattens the sail and de-powers it, a straighter mast gives shape & power. If you start getting diagonal wrinkles from clew to luff you’ve got too much bend.
Rod rigging is an option, not really one that you would want on a cruising boat as it's an unnecessary expense for no real gain. Dyneema would be a better option in many ways, for the shrouds at least. We want roller furling so can't use it for the stays.
His Steve: Very nice technicall video as allways. Please, Could you give us some detail information about this extension piece? I look for it in the Sta lock site but what I find is not exactly what you have in your hand. The part number reference will be ok. Thanks very much again.
That’s kind of the point with why it’s not such a big deal to not be using a gauge on the stays, you can’t use one on a forestay with a furler and you can’t on our back stay either with our stainless steel extrusion for the radar. A good rigger like Jade who came to Montenegro for our re-rig in the winter can tension by feel at the dock and get things pretty close but you’re only going to get things properly tuned in by sailing and seeing how much sag you’re getting on the foil and how well or badly you’re pointing. You can play with tensions and as long as the rake and prebend remain correct you’re looking for the tension that helps you point the highest.
@@svfairisle I guess I was asking more of a specific/technical question...if you can't access the forestay to tension it, how do you get forestay sag out? Do you just tension the backstay till there's too much pre-bend then tighten the diamonds to take the bend out -which would in turn tighten the forestay? How are you getting proper tension on the forestay without putting too much backstay tension on, but also keeping your backstay from sagging too much? Right like I can foresee a problem where you're trying to tension your forestay by tensioning your backstay, but to get enough tension on the forestay you have to way overt tighten the backstay which will mess up your mast pre-bend ...
@@travisweaver1805 You're over thinking it a bit I think. Remember that you cant have a stay over tensioned with the opposite stay not also overtensioned, same deal with the shrouds. If you tension a shroud to a certain level then to opposing shroud will be the same tension if the mast is in column. Newtons first law of motion will tell you that, it the forces were not matched then there would be motion until they did. Same deal with the stays except the angles probable wont match like the stays do, so the shallower angle has more tension to keep things in check. So yes you're looking for the right amount of forestay tension to not allow too much sag, if you get this right along with the correct amount of rake then your good, the backstay tension will be fine. You are talking about mast pre-bend which is a different thing again and dependent on how the mast is held by everything else, for us being a cutter thats mainly the inner forestay for the staysail. Don't get confused between pre-bend and rake!
Thanks for another great technical video, Steve. I’ve used Norseman and Sta-Lok terminals on all my boats. One of the debates about these fittings over the years has been whether to add sealants to the fittings to prevent water intrusion. Nigel Calder, Brion Toss, and Patrick Childress all recommend adding a sealant. If my memory is correct, the manufacturers of Norseman and Sta-Lok fittings used to recommend sealants, but they recently seem to have reversed themselves and no longer include mentions of sealants in their manuals. Your rigger seems to fall into this camp. I generally strictly adhere to the recommendations of reputable manufacturers, but the thought of bucking the advice both Calder and Toss causes me considerable consternation. Where do you come down on this?
OOOPS!!! I added this comment before watching the whole video. You and your rigger do address this at the end. Your rigger’s arguments and credentials are persuasive; I still find it difficult to contravene the advice of Calder and Toss, however…..
Jade has done lots of research on this and had long consultations with Sta-loc the upshot is they agree that no sealant is best. I might not contradict Nigel on electrical matters but on this I certainly would.
Jade, is such a man of few words, but each one means something. Soooooo! Professional. "Silence is golden" I live my life on the premise, that " when all is said, there is more said than done". In today's society, people yap, yap, yap. Just a lot of unnecessary noise pollution. Good rigger choice Steve & Judy
![DYNEEMA [Part 2]: Measuring Your Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8mG2MDXQmUU/mqdefault.jpg)
![DYNEEMA [Part 2]: Measuring Your Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
This was a really excellent video. There are so many nonsense videos about sailing but this one really imparts key bit of knowledge about how a rig should be set up and how stay-lock fitting work. Please keep these more technical videos coming.
Jade, is such a man of few words, but each one means something. Soooooo! Professional. "Silence is golden" I live my life on the premise, that " when all is said, there is more said than done". In today's society, people yap, yap, yap. Just a lot of unnecessary noise pollution. Good rigger choice Steve & Judy
An interesting video. I replaced all the standing rigging on my Rustler 36 also using StaLok fittings. Replacement is an easy DIY job, as you have the old shrouds/stays as templates. Also worth noting that p and s rigging must be exactly the same length, but that small differences (up to 5 mm) between old and new are not so critical, as there is a degree of adjustment with the rigging screws. It would have been good to show how the wires were cut to length. I used a block of oak, drilled with 8mm and 10mm holes, then cut a slot at right angle down to the level of the holes, wide enough for a normal hacksaw. Measure the distance from insertion point to slot to allow for an offset. This gives a really clean cut. I used the same block to fit a friend’s inner forestay. I was a little surprised that you didn’t remove any chainplates. The area where corrosion occurs is the invisible one where it passes through the deck. Some chainplates can be difficult to remove as builders love to clad them with lining, but if you are going to cross an ocean, you must be able to remove them. An effective check, used in the heavy lift industry, is to hang the chainplate from a screwdriver through, first the hole for the clevis pin, then the hole for the bottom bolt. Strike other end of the chainplate with a metal hammer. A clear, bell-like tone means that there is no corrosion between the suspended hole and the rest of the chainplate. A dull “clunk” means replace! No chance of mistaking, as the difference is obvious to even the most unmusical ear.
Excellent video, great to watch someone like Jade who is obviously a real expert and so understated.
Thanks Steve, really clear and useful.
One small point - you and others mentioned dyneema - one should remember the inverted thermodynamic properties in that dyneema elongates when cold and shines when hot - so one must have the opposing stay or shroud made of the same material - furler with steel forestay needs a steel backstay; damage a steel shroud and change to dyneema in an emergency - change on both sides and any opposing stay - ie baby stay and check stays. Cheers
Yes I talked about exactly that in an interview with Herby (Rigging Doctor) a couple of years ago. As you say keeping opposing supports in the same material is vital.
Very good content in both these videos part 1 and part 2 very informational thank you very much appreciate it please do follow through with the final tuning I'm sure there's a lot of people out there that would enjoy it
There’s a rough and ready tune in the latest video, done by me, I’ll try and film one with an expert rigger at some point
Thanks Steve for this very thorough and practical look at rigging and re-rigging. Amazing how every time anyone looks at the good gear, Selden is always right up there!
The great thing with the open bearings is washing them out every now & then with warm soapy water , Good vid thanks .
Thanks for a very informative and enjoyable video, Steve. I learn something every time I watch you and Judy and especially from the tech video's. Based on your feedback and Jade's obvious skill and professionalism, I've been talking with him to replace my standing rigging. You can't beat informed, word of mouth (and in this case, visual) recommendations. Thanks again for sharing these video's with us.
Jade is a top man, you’re in good hands
Thanks for the detailed videos on the re-rig! 😄
Great video with good nuggets of info!
Really good video!! Really informative!!😊
Very valuable knowledge , thank you 👍
Great video. I’d love to have a Part 3 for sure. And not just for the intro music either! Cheers.
“Remember, it is a boat and not everything is straight forward” - now that is an understatement!😂
Once again an excellent all points covered pair of articles. Mostly common sense but great to get those nuggets from jade. I’m always amazed when doing a pre delivery rig check how many split pins are upside down, wearing due to the Clovis pins too small or poorly toggled or just plain missing. Excellent training vid for sta-lock fittings too boot.
Bring on dynamic tuning and keep up the intro music 👏👏
Very informative, well done mate great video.🇦🇺
love your tech vids they are the best, obviously great rigger helps, thanks!
A great Video Steve. Thanks for sharing. It sounds like you got a great deal..
Hello, A great rig is not a luxury but it is often overlook......great work!
Great video Steve!
Great technical info.
Will never do this but a very informative video thanks
Thanks Steve, very useful piece
Great information and technic thanks
Great video I learned a lot. Thanhs !!!
Love the tech videos. Thanks!
People have used laser tape measure devices to measure up for rigging lengths.
It might be possible to use a laser tape measure to check furler forestay tension.
The change in total forestay straight line length to get the sag to a ballpark value would be less than 1mm. The total forestay straight line length change to set 15% of breaking strain tension would be about 15 mm to get a forestay sag of around 70 mm so it seems to me that it might be possible to get a fairly accurate number for the headstay tension with a furler fitted using a laser measurer version of the Selden 2 metre rule method.
Edit - Looks like we don't need a laser thing. Can just measure the length change at the tensioning device. I'm going to look at the numbers related to sag / catenary induced tension etc first to see how accurate the method would be but it does look like it might be enough to determine a good wire tension number.
The effect of sag change on tensioning length change change should be relatively small & if friction in the tightening device screw were to be reduced considerably with lubricant then it might be possible to also use a torque wrench approach to measuring tension in the forestay. Using a combination might help with improving accuracy so some oil, a spring balance to check force applied to the adjustable spanners & measuring bottle screw length change might do the trick. I've just got to work out the expected adjustable spanner torque numbers for the low friction & unlubricated conditions.
So the numbers might look like 7 NM to 40 NM - from minimum to 15% tension. Could use a torque wrench with a crows foot spanner with length change max 40mm & the real numbers if recorded would be very repeatable as the tension increase is gradual & linear.
Quality information
Started watching your channel and love the mix of topics. In particular the technical corner with its tips and walk though of the process. All in all very informative and well made videos. Only feedback is that’s it’s not always easy to find the right sequence of videos (ie sails before the rigging videos). It’s a shame TH-cam isn’t better at grouping and managing content eg having categories or folder.
Glad you like the videos. There are ‘playlists’ on our YT channel where tech videos - episodes - product reviews etc are grouped together. I should probably go through and make some sub groups now like electronics - rigging etc, but it may help find things a bit
@@svfairislethank you, learn something new everyday!
Sorry, but I haven’t caught up yet. Have you started your Atlantic crossing or are you waiting in the Canneries?
Also, have you done a video on your planned circumnavigation route? Appreciate it may change, but interest in the route from Panama across the Pacific, where you will sit out the Hurricane/ Cyclone seasons and whether you are planning to coming up through Suez or down around Cape of Good Hope?
@@davidllewelyn We are currently anchored in the South of Gran Canaria having sailed down today. If the wind is good tomorrow which it should be we will head off to The Gambia which will take around a week, maybe 8 days. From there it’s the Cape Verds and the Southern Caribbean where we will stay for the hurricanes season then head up the next year and see how for up the US eastern seaboard we can get in the summer. Then the Bahamas & after that not sure!
@@svfairisle then I wish you fair winds and look forward to your future videos.
... very useful info, thanks :)
I plan on using dyneema with dead eyes, but its good to know how it should look just in case. I have to step the mast to go out the Erie canal.
Great. Ideo.. It’s worth mentioning that he put thread locker on the Sta-Lok before pre assembly in order to lubricate the threads and avoid the stainless terminal from jamming.. which is a common thing on really large diameter wires..
nice Lada Niva
In the up and coming video id like to know your thoughts on synthetic rigging . Pros.and cons thanks
There are some big advantages to going synthetic, weight aloft being the big one. It’s also stronger and easier to see if there’s and damage happening ( the dyneema will go fuzzy if it’s chafing) It would have required a lot of thought with termination’s though and you do have the downside of thermal expansion/ contraction with temperature so you have to devise a was to easily tension you rig. The reason we didn’t go for it though is we have furling headsails. Going synthetic would mean going slab reefed and that’s just too much work to sail.
I wonder how much it all cost? The full rigging refit?
Best not to add it all up! We did okay though as we got a good discount on the Furlex at the boat show which was £7,000 full price. The standing rigging was about the same again and we did get a bit of a discount from Stay lok
It looked like one of the standing rig wires was rubbing the security line wire.
Yes it happens in a couple of places, I have the lifeline sleeved in those spots
S & J, on your sailmaker choice, I have inquired with Precision Sails about junk sails for my 60 ft schooner SV Spice of Life. They have replied never made any, but I will follow up with them when required. Thanks
Yes I can see the problem with a junk rigged boat, the system they have come up with relies on you filling out their on line form with all the relevant measurements, they would need to come up with a form for a gaff rigged boat. But they are very accommodating & nice guys so if you hit them at a time when they’re not snowed under I sure they would rise to the challenge!
@@svfairisle Steve, a gaff is very different than a junk, but I get your reference. I am moored across the strait about 25 miles from Precision's loft, so I could bring my current junk sails to them. Thanks for your input. Bye the way, as a yacht broker, I wonder if you and Judy realize that all of your maintenance and upgrade videos, are actually an online pre-purchase survey documentary for the next buyer, when you decide to sell Fair Isle. It will be an easy sale, because the demand will be huge, especially the prestige of owning the former vessel of the famous documentary film makers, Judy and Steve.
Great video. Where in Montenegro, did you get this done?
Porto Montenegro (great marina)
When will you do a chain plate inspection??
When there's any sign of deterioration. The chain plates go through the deck, which I dont like I prefer when they are on the outside of the hull. So the place where they will suffer will be as they pass through the deck. To be 100% sure you would pull the plates, but I have clear sight of them as the come through the deck on the inside and there is not, and has never been, any sign of water/rust staining. I've also pulled the bolts which were all pristine. So the chances of any of the plates having a problem are pretty much zero so I'm happy to leave them be for now.
Hi Steve. I'm a little bit lost as to whether the mast rake incorporates the mast bend or is it induced after setting the rake?
Always rake first then bend. Confusing I know as it’s often called prebend! Basically you are lengthening the forestay to get rake before everything in tightened up. Fair Isle is just about 1 degree a morn modern rig, fractional or with swept back spreaders might have much more. But really you want as much rake as gives you the right amount of weather helm ie enough to turn you slowly up wind in 10 knows of breeze or give a small pull on the gusts. You will have a couple of degrees of rudder loading if this is correct. Then introducing some bend will help the shape of the sail. Again generally rigs with swept back spreaders tend to have more, but it’s all about how the sail is cut ( what the sailmaker was expecting ) so as Jade said, just go sailing and look. More mast bend flattens the sail and de-powers it, a straighter mast gives shape & power. If you start getting diagonal wrinkles from clew to luff you’ve got too much bend.
Thanks. For once I could actually follow a rigging presentation,
What’s better, wire rigging or I’ve seen like straight steel rigging
Rod rigging is an option, not really one that you would want on a cruising boat as it's an unnecessary expense for no real gain. Dyneema would be a better option in many ways, for the shrouds at least. We want roller furling so can't use it for the stays.
His Steve: Very nice technicall video as allways. Please, Could you give us some detail information about this extension piece? I look for it in the Sta lock site but what I find is not exactly what you have in your hand. The part number reference will be ok. Thanks very much again.
Hi - It is our Sta-Lok Self-Fit Long Stud (Product Code 076)
They call it a 'long stud' the number on the packet is 076-08-5/8
Thanks very much, Steve
Thanks, so much good information.
What is the forestay adjuster? I don’t see them on the sta lock web site.
The whole forestay system is Selden (Furlex) they just happen to use STALOK terminations as well
@@svfairisle thank you! Rigging 101 part 1 and part 2 were excellent. Thank you for doing them.
so how do you tension the forestay with that big furling system on it?
That’s kind of the point with why it’s not such a big deal to not be using a gauge on the stays, you can’t use one on a forestay with a furler and you can’t on our back stay either with our stainless steel extrusion for the radar. A good rigger like Jade who came to Montenegro for our re-rig in the winter can tension by feel at the dock and get things pretty close but you’re only going to get things properly tuned in by sailing and seeing how much sag you’re getting on the foil and how well or badly you’re pointing. You can play with tensions and as long as the rake and prebend remain correct you’re looking for the tension that helps you point the highest.
@@svfairisle I guess I was asking more of a specific/technical question...if you can't access the forestay to tension it, how do you get forestay sag out? Do you just tension the backstay till there's too much pre-bend then tighten the diamonds to take the bend out -which would in turn tighten the forestay? How are you getting proper tension on the forestay without putting too much backstay tension on, but also keeping your backstay from sagging too much? Right like I can foresee a problem where you're trying to tension your forestay by tensioning your backstay, but to get enough tension on the forestay you have to way overt tighten the backstay which will mess up your mast pre-bend ...
@@travisweaver1805 You're over thinking it a bit I think. Remember that you cant have a stay over tensioned with the opposite stay not also overtensioned, same deal with the shrouds. If you tension a shroud to a certain level then to opposing shroud will be the same tension if the mast is in column. Newtons first law of motion will tell you that, it the forces were not matched then there would be motion until they did. Same deal with the stays except the angles probable wont match like the stays do, so the shallower angle has more tension to keep things in check. So yes you're looking for the right amount of forestay tension to not allow too much sag, if you get this right along with the correct amount of rake then your good, the backstay tension will be fine. You are talking about mast pre-bend which is a different thing again and dependent on how the mast is held by everything else, for us being a cutter thats mainly the inner forestay for the staysail. Don't get confused between pre-bend and rake!
Recomend dynema rigging ?
Love the idea of dyneema rigging but we have roller furling foresails that can’t be mounted on dyneema, going slab reefed would be too much for us
Thanks for another great technical video, Steve. I’ve used Norseman and Sta-Lok terminals on all my boats. One of the debates about these fittings over the years has been whether to add sealants to the fittings to prevent water intrusion. Nigel Calder, Brion Toss, and Patrick Childress all recommend adding a sealant. If my memory is correct, the manufacturers of Norseman and Sta-Lok fittings used to recommend sealants, but they recently seem to have reversed themselves and no longer include mentions of sealants in their manuals. Your rigger seems to fall into this camp. I generally strictly adhere to the recommendations of reputable manufacturers, but the thought of bucking the advice both Calder and Toss causes me considerable consternation. Where do you come down on this?
OOOPS!!! I added this comment before watching the whole video. You and your rigger do address this at the end. Your rigger’s arguments and credentials are persuasive; I still find it difficult to contravene the advice of Calder and Toss, however…..
Jade has done lots of research on this and had long consultations with Sta-loc the upshot is they agree that no sealant is best. I might not contradict Nigel on electrical matters but on this I certainly would.
Great job . The new rigging should last you the rest of your cruising life .
I hope not… we plan to be going until we’re at least 80!
Jade, is such a man of few words, but each one means something. Soooooo! Professional. "Silence is golden" I live my life on the premise, that " when all is said, there is more said than done". In today's society, people yap, yap, yap. Just a lot of unnecessary noise pollution. Good rigger choice Steve & Judy