OMG - I did not know what those little holes in the prongs of the power cord were for or how they worked - I never actually thought about them! Once again, I learned so much from you videos - this is straight forward and I'm less spooked about vintage machines. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise!
I have had good success cleaning the small copper “plates” on the commutator with a soft eraser like you would use in school. And, don’t use alcohol on the wire windings on the motor. They are coated with something like shellac to protect them and keep them from touching each other.
Thank you for this video. I have a Kenmore 158.504 where the light goes on but nothing happens with the motor. No sound or movement from motor. Got the machine without a foot pedal. Got the correct foot pedal and the light goes on but nothing with motor. Using your video will look at the motor brushes!!!! Thanks again, your video presentation was easy for this novice to understand!!! Subscribed!
I have this exact same machine! It sat for probably 20 years without use. I cleaned and oiled it and so happy to get it running again. But in the process I broke the zigzag needle plate. Fortunately found someone selling it online - after first ordering the wrong plate.
You are exactly right. I didn't realize the mistake was made until I uploaded. Unfortunately, I cant correct it without removing the video and reuploading :-( Thanks for the comment.
I sort of bopped through the video. It is rare for a brush to break away like that, but it can happen. Did you disassmble the motor and have a look at your commutator? If a brush went rogue, it could have potentially damaged the copper slats in the commutator. A feel around with your fingertip would easily tell you if your commuator is OK, or if it has a nick that needs to be buffed out. As well, the carbon soot that builds up on the commutator, the copper windings, the rotor and the stator all should be cleaned up as well. The copper windings just need electronic cleaner or 90% Isopropryl alcohol sprayed on while you very carefully wipe down the surfaces (softer than soft cloth, and do not soak them, very important). A Dremel tool or 800 grit sandpaper to clean the soot off of the commutator, stator and rotor helps too. Good idea to clean the bearings on top and the bottom of the motor can while you're at it, and deliver a drop of oil in the cans vents where the wool wicks deliver the oil to the rotating shaft on both ends (this should be done every 6 months to a year, the oiling I mean). This will keep your machine running at optimum speed, and keep the motor healthy for a lot longer than if it's not done at all (which most sewists don't tend to do).
@@randykoger4646 I, and many other sewing machine restorers have used very fine grit sandpaper (absolutely nothing with a lower grit) on dings in a commutator with excellent results. I would never use it if the commutator was just fouled with carbon dust, etc, but if you are dealing with a deep gouge, the sanding (either Dremel it while it is in a vice or hook it up to a drill, secure said drill in the vice and allow a thin strip of sandpaper to clean and level the surface until flat. It's not just my fix, it's the fix of a great many other restorers when dealing with a damaged commutator. I stand by my statement! NOW...for the record, if you don't know what you are doing, then don't follow that example, bring the motor to a professional for refurbishment.
Motor bushes do create gunk in the ports of the brushes. When they gunk up they stick and when they wear down they no longer make contact with commutator. Use qtip to clean out the brush ports and the outside of brushes. I do this as part of every tuneup i do.
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You are brave and smart. Every time I work on something, I make it worse.
Fabulous! YAY!
A Big Big Thank you. I was having the exact same problem. I would have never thought to have done that. Would have taken it to a shop ...
I admire your work. You’re an inspiration to us women❤
OMG - I did not know what those little holes in the prongs of the power cord were for or how they worked - I never actually thought about them! Once again, I learned so much from you videos - this is straight forward and I'm less spooked about vintage machines. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise!
This is not related to the video, but what are your recommendations for an embroidery machine? Reasonably priced that is.
So so helpful😊 Thank you
Great advice very informative!
Thank you! This is great information. I have a Kenmore 158.19310. It is very similar and sews great.
I have had good success cleaning the small copper “plates” on the commutator with a soft eraser like you would use in school. And, don’t use alcohol on the wire windings on the motor. They are coated with something like shellac to protect them and keep them from touching each other.
Hmm. I will have to try the soft eraser. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this video. I have a Kenmore 158.504 where the light goes on but nothing happens with the motor. No sound or movement from motor. Got the machine without a foot pedal. Got the correct foot pedal and the light goes on but nothing with motor. Using your video will look at the motor brushes!!!! Thanks again, your video presentation was easy for this novice to understand!!! Subscribed!
I have a White 530 and light is on but motor won't run.
I will follow these steps and see if I can figure it out.
Thank you ❤😊
We have the same Kenmore
Thank you so much, this was very very helpful. 10/10
@thimblebook thanks to you my 'faulty machine' is now working perfectly.
I wanted to see and hear your machine running, lol! 💗 Nice work. I enjoy your video editing.
I have this exact same machine! It sat for probably 20 years without use. I cleaned and oiled it and so happy to get it running again. But in the process I broke the zigzag needle plate. Fortunately found someone selling it online - after first ordering the wrong plate.
The part of the motor that the brushes contact is the commutater, NOT the communicator.
You are exactly right. I didn't realize the mistake was made until I uploaded. Unfortunately, I cant correct it without removing the video and reuploading :-( Thanks for the comment.
Impressive.
Excellent video!
Thanks.
I sort of bopped through the video. It is rare for a brush to break away like that, but it can happen. Did you disassmble the motor and have a look at your commutator?
If a brush went rogue, it could have potentially damaged the copper slats in the commutator. A feel around with your fingertip would easily tell you if your commuator is OK, or if it has a nick that needs to be buffed out. As well, the carbon soot that builds up on the commutator, the copper windings, the rotor and the stator all should be cleaned up as well. The copper windings just need electronic cleaner or 90% Isopropryl alcohol sprayed on while you very carefully wipe down the surfaces (softer than soft cloth, and do not soak them, very important).
A Dremel tool or 800 grit sandpaper to clean the soot off of the commutator, stator and rotor helps too. Good idea to clean the bearings on top and the bottom of the motor can while you're at it, and deliver a drop of oil in the cans vents where the wool wicks deliver the oil to the rotating shaft on both ends (this should be done every 6 months to a year, the oiling I mean).
This will keep your machine running at optimum speed, and keep the motor healthy for a lot longer than if it's not done at all (which most sewists don't tend to do).
Thanks so much for letting me know. I'll check it out to make sure the broken pieces aren't down in there.
@@ThimbleBook maybe do the maintenance I suggested. It'll give your motor a much longer life, not to mention the increase in performance.
Do NOT use sandpaper to clean the commutator face!!
@@randykoger4646 I, and many other sewing machine restorers have used very fine grit sandpaper (absolutely nothing with a lower grit) on dings in a commutator with excellent results. I would never use it if the commutator was just fouled with carbon dust, etc, but if you are dealing with a deep gouge, the sanding (either Dremel it while it is in a vice or hook it up to a drill, secure said drill in the vice and allow a thin strip of sandpaper to clean and level the surface until flat. It's not just my fix, it's the fix of a great many other restorers when dealing with a damaged commutator. I stand by my statement! NOW...for the record, if you don't know what you are doing, then don't follow that example, bring the motor to a professional for refurbishment.
Thanks😂
Motor bushes do create gunk in the ports of the brushes. When they gunk up they stick and when they wear down they no longer make contact with commutator. Use qtip to clean out the brush ports and the outside of brushes. I do this as part of every tuneup i do.
This is a great piece of advice. Thanks.
❤❤❤❤❤
So frustrating when you're sewing along and the right machine goes kaput!
Great video but it’s a “commutator plate”, not a “communicator”.
How much is it
Currently not selling. Thanks for watching.