This reminded me of the training circuits at Keesler AFB way back in 1976! A l little trap door on the bottom of the chassis hid several switches that introduced faults. The instructor would set one up and we had to troubleshoot it EXACTLY like what you just did. Ah, memories.
Hey finally the looper! I made that suggestion or using a recording long ago. Jus sayin. Well done Terry. Another great training session! People willing to take the time to watch, listen, and understand will appreciate these lessons.
Hey Terry, another fab D-Lab basic training lesson..Great video and more tech info and practical faults remedied and repairs learned..Thanks for sharing..Ed..uk..😁
Thanks for another "wake-up" video...I am still able to get to where I need to be using the "Visual inspection" aided by a magnifying glass and this is because you reminded us to look at the parts more closely, thanks. I was getting too used to gizmos instead of using my own Eyes and ears to solve problems.
That design looks clean enough that I think I will buy Your board and other parts and build one. You I hope can provide a parts list Schematic. I will check Your site. Good reminder Quality of solder connection is near as important as that of components. Thanks.
How about some tone stack training, I remember you made a switch to change from fender to Brit tone on one of your amps. Would be good to understand the differences.
Man I could have used this video about 1 1/2 years ago :) I was working on an Egnater Tweaker 15 that sounded exactly like your amp. The Egnater came in with a failed OT and after I replaced it I got this cutting out sound. I thought maybe the new OT was bad so I spent some time checking that out but it tested fine. Turns out the cathode resistor didn’t have a path to ground. Unbeknownst to me the guy before me changed the resistor (assuming during troubleshooting?) but didn’t solder it correctly. Quick fix and all was well.
Maybe in a up coming Fred video show us how to use a homemade signal tracer and trace the signal path from the input to the output and all in between to find a break in the signal path caused by a bad resistor or such
Great video. Thanks for the upload. Have been watching your uploads for a while now and learnt loads from you. Where can I find out more about your PCBs? I normally build mine on tag strip's as I find them easy to modify .
Your opinion please: would it be beneficial to CLEAN and treat all non-soldered contacts within an amplifier. We know the benefits of cleaning and interconnects and speaker cable terminations! Thx.
Great video I like this Fred series. Is there ways that I can use to check if in a new build something is wired wrong , besides just looking at the wires and the layout , can one do some sort of ohm test and see . I’m reliving now that my lead dressing is very important to be neat and organized thank you for making great videos
If you had probed the "gnd" side of the resistor while powered on, you would have seen 60Vdc there also. That would prove the resistor was not open and it wasn't tied to ground. Right?
Great video , I have a clone that is new first time starting it up and doing the first voltage test and it over heats the cathode resistor and melts it , could it be that the original resistor was a 3 watt resistor and the high wall voltage of today compared to the voltage of 1958 was less . Or should I look at what part fist to see if I wired it wrong , I’m learning about this stuff so I’m just asking we’re to look first then second and third etc your video like this is golden to me thank you again
Hi Terry how are you. A customer brought me a Gibson GA-5 Les Paul junior amp. Its a very small combo with only one control and a small 5×7 speaker. It has a shorted power transformer. The Tube compliment is 6V6, 6SH7 and the rectifier is missing but its wired for 5Y3. What power transformer would you put in it? its vertical mount. It powers up and all the voltages are there but it gets way too hot after about 10 minutes. I took all the tubes out and it still got too hot. I'm thinking a Hammond 269X or 270x will fit but I need to choose which one. The voltage measures 270 volts AC to ground on one red wire of the high voltage secondary and the other measured 290 both measurements are with transformer unloaded. I always test the transformers before I replace all paper caps, old electrolytics and carbon resistors that are out of tolerance but next time I test a power transformer I will let it stay powered on a bit longer so as to check for partial shorts and overheating In order to give a more accurate estimate on repair. Thank you Terry
I have a similar issue with my 5e3 clone but one Power tube is at operating temperature the other 66 is cold and when I checked the pin to on the tooth socket on the top side where the Warriors attach was loose I could wiggle it so could’ve bad this bad spot dude also the same as this example because then the heater isn’t heating the tube and send it to visit operating either I think I’m correct
And some elsewhere it seems, good practice is to scrape away oxidisation on component (especially older ones kept in storage) leads before soldering. I am not a fan of high-power rated resistors right next to electrolytic caps, even though the power would be a max of 1.5W.
I wish you all the best and blessings. In your new venture in amp and ham radio repair looks like you have a nice set up. . ... . .. N6TLU DE KC4ITU ..
This reminded me of the training circuits at Keesler AFB way back in 1976! A l little trap door on the bottom of the chassis hid several switches that introduced faults. The instructor would set one up and we had to troubleshoot it EXACTLY like what you just did. Ah, memories.
My father was stationed at Keesler back in about 56' when I was just about one year old. I haven't thought about that in years.
That sounds fun!
I'm impressed that you were able to get that bad connection on purpose.
D lab Electronics your utube videos are awesome
5F2 has a choke whereas the 5F2-A doesn't. Not trying to call you out, just trying to be accurate. Love your stuff, Terry!!
A very clever saboteur. If it teaches secrets to every workflow in troubleshooting, then it was well intended. Cheers!
Hey finally the looper! I made that suggestion or using a recording long ago. Jus sayin. Well done Terry. Another great training session! People willing to take the time to watch, listen, and understand will appreciate these lessons.
Great lesson on making sure your connections are working and soldered in correctly. Thanks for the basic training Terry.
Thank you for the good tech tips Terry, Please keep them coming.
Nice video showing how to track down a problem with an amp.
Great video on the woes of poor soldering.
I would love to help this channel grow. Unfortunately, I am the only one I know that has any knowledge or interest in what you do. I love this stuff.
Hey Terry, another fab D-Lab basic training lesson..Great video and more tech info and practical faults remedied and repairs learned..Thanks for sharing..Ed..uk..😁
I really enjoy your videos, content and style. Good job Terry!
Thanks for another "wake-up" video...I am still able to get to where I need to be using the "Visual inspection" aided by a magnifying glass and this is because you reminded us to look at the parts more closely, thanks. I was getting too used to gizmos instead of using my own Eyes and ears to solve problems.
Great video D-Lab. Thanks for the instructional video.
Nice teaching method, Terry. WHat you'll see and why.
Great video well explained. I have one of those 360 Loopers and like how it was used in the demonstration.
Good one Terr. Useful lesson.
Perfect repair Terry 👍🏻
That design looks clean enough that I think I will buy Your board and other parts and build one. You I hope can provide a parts list Schematic. I will check Your site. Good reminder Quality of solder connection is near as important as that of components. Thanks.
Awesome stuff Terry. I’m loving my DLab amp.
Carry on…
Thx for making these videos D-Lab'👍
Great training lesson, thanks!
How about some tone stack training, I remember you made a switch to change from fender to Brit tone on one of your amps. Would be good to understand the differences.
Thanks for all of your shared knowledge!
I love your videos. Thank you!
Man I could have used this video about 1 1/2 years ago :) I was working on an Egnater Tweaker 15 that sounded exactly like your amp. The Egnater came in with a failed OT and after I replaced it I got this cutting out sound. I thought maybe the new OT was bad so I spent some time checking that out but it tested fine. Turns out the cathode resistor didn’t have a path to ground. Unbeknownst to me the guy before me changed the resistor (assuming during troubleshooting?) but didn’t solder it correctly. Quick fix and all was well.
Thanks for this. Truly appreciated.
Maybe in a up coming Fred video show us how to use a homemade signal tracer and trace the signal path from the input to the output and all in between to find a break in the signal path caused by a bad resistor or such
Nice lesson! Thanks Terry
Great video. Thanks for the upload.
Have been watching your uploads for a while now and learnt loads from you.
Where can I find out more about your PCBs?
I normally build mine on tag strip's as I find them easy to modify .
Check out d-labelectronics.com
One more great video!!! Thank you for share your experience with us. Please, may you say where you buy your electronic components?
very educational mr terry! thanks!
Excellent series, thanks!
Great Terry. Like it!
That was a cool demo
Your opinion please: would it be beneficial to CLEAN and treat all non-soldered contacts within an amplifier. We know the benefits of cleaning and interconnects and speaker cable terminations! Thx.
Hi Terry! Good video.
Great video I like this Fred series. Is there ways that I can use to check if in a new build something is wired wrong , besides just looking at the wires and the layout , can one do some sort of ohm test and see . I’m reliving now that my lead dressing is very important to be neat and organized thank you for making great videos
Right Said Fred
Great video!
If you had probed the "gnd" side of the resistor while powered on, you would have seen 60Vdc there also. That would prove the resistor was not open and it wasn't tied to ground.
Right?
Yes, the 60V would be at the open circuit
Superb
👍
6-weeks of basic training, will you follow up with AIT
Great video , I have a clone that is new first time starting it up and doing the first voltage test and it over heats the cathode resistor and melts it , could it be that the original resistor was a 3 watt resistor and the high wall voltage of today compared to the voltage of 1958 was less . Or should I look at what part fist to see if I wired it wrong , I’m learning about this stuff so I’m just asking we’re to look first then second and third etc your video like this is golden to me thank you again
My clone is of 5E3 from tube depot just so you all know
Hi Terry how are you. A customer brought me a Gibson GA-5 Les Paul junior amp. Its a very small combo with only one control and a small 5×7 speaker. It has a shorted power transformer. The Tube compliment is 6V6, 6SH7 and the rectifier is missing but its wired for 5Y3. What power transformer would you put in it? its vertical mount. It powers up and all the voltages are there but it gets way too hot after about 10 minutes. I took all the tubes out and it still got too hot. I'm thinking a Hammond 269X or 270x will fit but I need to choose which one. The voltage measures 270 volts AC to ground on one red wire of the high voltage secondary and the other measured 290 both measurements are with transformer unloaded. I always test the transformers before I replace all paper caps, old electrolytics and carbon resistors that are out of tolerance but next time I test a power transformer I will let it stay powered on a bit longer so as to check for partial shorts and overheating In order to give a more accurate estimate on repair. Thank you Terry
I have a similar issue with my 5e3 clone but one Power tube is at operating temperature the other 66 is cold and when I checked the pin to on the tooth socket on the top side where the Warriors attach was loose I could wiggle it so could’ve bad this bad spot dude also the same as this example because then the heater isn’t heating the tube and send it to visit operating either I think I’m correct
There are some eyelets on the left that look dodgy.
Yep, all will be tidy before reassembly
And some elsewhere it seems, good practice is to scrape away oxidisation on component (especially older ones kept in storage) leads before soldering. I am not a fan of high-power rated resistors right next to electrolytic caps, even though the power would be a max of 1.5W.
I wish you all the best and blessings. In your new venture in amp and ham radio repair looks like you have a nice set up. . ... . ..
N6TLU DE KC4ITU ..
Sv
Great demonstration, thanks.
clear and informative - thanks for teaching !