Fixed the problems and made some power pulls. Share a few 361 power tips and show the gains.For more product and service info visit the website worksaws.com
I really like how you transfered your marks with that paper and pencil. I've used that trick for years! Also I think the muffler mod, timing advance, and maybe a simple base gasket delete might be some more simple things we can do at home. Possibly even match the exhaust gasket to the cylinder and muffler for better flow if it's in the way. Just thinking of at home ideas anyone could do without major tools. Good video!
Do simple gasket port match porting. Then bigger muffler, then base gasket delete, then popup piston. Then keep working your way up one dino run at a time. It's great to see little gain every time up to big power. Thank you.
These step by step mod’s are super cool! Really like seeing your transferring of your make template technique… we usta do that little pencil lead transfer technique or just some greasy and dirty shop paws rubbing them on the edges to get a transfer. That’s just a fantastic old school technique that might help a lot of guy’s who are working on all kinds of different projects!!! Loved your reaction when you cracked off the throttle and she blasted up!!! Like that’s what I’m talking about!!! That’s more like it!!! Yeah man!!! LMFFAO
Nice work on this series Joe. Your dyno results coincide with what I have experienced on my MS361 builds. Unless one changes the intake boot size it is hard to realize the full potential of the larger carb swap. I decided on my last two builds not to bother with that and focus more on filtration and muffler mods with porting. I look forward to seeing the results of your muffler mods. I can't say on the g366 but on most ms361's the squish with a base gasket is at around .026" so a base gasket delete is not possible unless one cuts the base. I did not notice the small hole in the intake port on the g366 so maybe the g366 cylider is cast off the early Mahle ms361 cylinder, that is different from the later ones. A simple intake timing change by filing and sanding off the piston squirt would be a great mod to share that anyone can do, especially giving the risk for failure with these aftermarket cylinders. And as you said a timing advance. It would be nice to know just how close the timing on the g366 is to the ms361. I have had two saws with aftermarket coils run backwards on me.Thanks for the video's. 👍
A budget saw should have a budget build. Go for a gasket delete brother! Timing advance. Maybe clean up those transfers 🤷🏻♂️ thanks for all of the efforts man. I appreciate it! I’d love to see a 200t clone build. It’ll need a stihl carb though lol.
Doing a base gasket delete would continue with understanding modification improvements that a person who doesn't have access to cylinder grinding (i.e. porting) .
I’d like to see if just opening the lower transfers will help or hurt. I only say that because you see a lot of guys who start playing with porting open lowers but nothing else. They blow the lowers open thinking they’re helping.. is it or is it not? Well I’d like to see dyno runs to see. I know it’s not easy because you need to take the cylinder on and off so it’s labor intensive but who knows maybe someday. Just an idea 🤷♂️.. Thanks for the helpful vids Joe.
I third this, lol... Port it leave Lowers stock and do a pull... Then open up. I can tell u when I ported my BB 361 cyclinder the Lowers are so tight I could. Not start with a normal sized bit... I had to use the dremel straight carbide bit 3mm wide!
I'm liking the baby step method on this build. I dabble in saw modding but I get impatient and just do it all at once outside of muffler mods. I mod some and never port them. Id like to see the small steps continue. Full muffler gutting next. Then just a base gasket delete. Then porting without machine work and last, machine work. If you can after you already ported it. Planning involved for those to be done in seperate steps obviously. I have faith you can math it out. 😊 keep up the vids. Still my favorite saw channel.
I like this step by step build up with numbers to show what is what. It would be cool to see the same intake and exhaust mods with the stock carb to see if the carb swap or air flow is helping more. I’m sure the carb makes a larger difference the further the build goes, especially if ported. I think sticking with hand tools only will be best to see how far it can go before machining is needed. I vote gutting the exhaust next, then base gasket delete, then timing advance. Then maybe some very simple porting that could be accomplished with hand files only?
Hey Joe, great vid... What I think many may like to see is what a fleece filter does.... For a worksaw most will run fleece for protection... Would just be nice to see what power loss would be with the loss of flow from the fleece vs the mesh. Cheers bud! Awesome vids
That’s how I made the fastest stihl ms290 I’ve seen left everything stock except I put a husky 372x-torq carb on it and muffler mod. Was a ripper. More gas=more power
Appreciate the time and effort to make the mods and dyno them. Swapped an 039 carb onto a g366....should of just gutted the intake elbow. Haha. More gains.....less work.
They have been working professionally for me but I’ve definitely been swapping over a good used topend or the meteor topend kit the occasional crank shaft setup with those but several of the aftermarket cranks are still running great. 32:1 obviously because it’s just not a real nikasil lining I’ll use SKF bearings but I oil them more with the 90cc size or 70… 36:1 or 40:1 on the little displacement saw’s just helps them run longer….
Great videos buddy! Can you just do a mild port job and base gasket delete no machine work keep ot simple for the small starting out guys with out a lathe.
Great video! Predictably, there is a wide range of "how far to go" in the comments. I'll just say, "keep going & taking us along." And as we progress & a machine is required (lathe/mill/grinder) don't be afraid/reluctant to use it...... that's just a part of the process to do it right. Thanks!
Great video as usual sir, When it comes to the clone saws I think a carb swap is in order, if for no other reason than to get away from the clone carbs. Every clone carb I’ve dealt with wouldn’t hold a tune.
I'd like to see muffler mod, then a pipe simple iron horse pipe. Advance the timing. Next would be a gasket delete no machine work. Home tools only. Grinder and flap wheel for cylinder clearance. 😂 Then port work. Depending on the piston maybe a dome if it doesn't have one. Like to see a single ring setup as compared to a dual if it is a two ring piston.
I'd like to see what the muffler mod and intake horn did/could do with the stock carb.... I could mod a muffler and cut the intake horn while sitting by a campfire, I probably won't have a bigger carb to throw on.
Great video as usual. I’d be curious to see what I’d does with no muffler at all. Does it even run? If it does, does it lose torque? Horsepower? Just would be interesting to see. Also, do cheap vs expensive plugs make a difference? A warmer or colder plug?
Hi Joe, I would be curious to see what a timing advance and timing retard from the factory keyed timing would do to power output on the dyno. After I did a mild port job with a base gasket delete I felt my G366 ran stronger with a little timing retard. I was getting too much kick back with factory timing along with the backwards running when trying to start the saw.
The 366s seem to have hot timing from factory... Certainly don't need an advance imo... But until I throw a timing light on it and see where it is, I wont know for sure.... Mine. Kicks too!
Does an oem stihl wrist pin (tapered) actually make any tiny measurable difference over the slightly heavier non tapered pins? Or is that one of those things we just do cuz it sounds nice
Just ordered the offset key and filter o ring kit from your store. Red beard air filter is what I wanted but out of stock. Hey v twin do you have a link to where you are getting your 620 carb? Thanks. Love the content on this channel. Mistake parts bought from sawsalvage.
Base gasket delete next. Keep going Joe You're doing great.
I really like how you transfered your marks with that paper and pencil. I've used that trick for years! Also I think the muffler mod, timing advance, and maybe a simple base gasket delete might be some more simple things we can do at home. Possibly even match the exhaust gasket to the cylinder and muffler for better flow if it's in the way. Just thinking of at home ideas anyone could do without major tools. Good video!
Do simple gasket port match porting. Then bigger muffler, then base gasket delete, then popup piston. Then keep working your way up one dino run at a time. It's great to see little gain every time up to big power. Thank you.
Thanks fir the mention, Joe! From here, I'd like to see what a fully gutted muffler mod will do as well as a timing advance. You're the man, man!
Gutted muffler uploading... Good luck at the races
Timing advance.
I’d like to see more exhaust mods and see what a straight pipe does.
These step by step mod’s are super cool! Really like seeing your transferring of your make template technique… we usta do that little pencil lead transfer technique or just some greasy and dirty shop paws rubbing them on the edges to get a transfer. That’s just a fantastic old school technique that might help a lot of guy’s who are working on all kinds of different projects!!!
Loved your reaction when you cracked off the throttle and she blasted up!!! Like that’s what I’m talking about!!! That’s more like it!!! Yeah man!!! LMFFAO
Nice work on this series Joe. Your dyno results coincide with what I have experienced on my MS361 builds. Unless one changes the intake boot size it is hard to realize the full potential of the larger carb swap. I decided on my last two builds not to bother with that and focus more on filtration and muffler mods with porting. I look forward to seeing the results of your muffler mods. I can't say on the g366 but on most ms361's the squish with a base gasket is at around .026" so a base gasket delete is not possible unless one cuts the base. I did not notice the small hole in the intake port on the g366 so maybe the g366 cylider is cast off the early Mahle ms361 cylinder, that is different from the later ones. A simple intake timing change by filing and sanding off the piston squirt would be a great mod to share that anyone can do, especially giving the risk for failure with these aftermarket cylinders. And as you said a timing advance. It would be nice to know just how close the timing on the g366 is to the ms361. I have had two saws with aftermarket coils run backwards on me.Thanks for the video's. 👍
A budget saw should have a budget build. Go for a gasket delete brother! Timing advance. Maybe clean up those transfers 🤷🏻♂️ thanks for all of the efforts man. I appreciate it! I’d love to see a 200t clone build. It’ll need a stihl carb though lol.
Doing a base gasket delete would continue with understanding modification improvements that a person who doesn't have access to cylinder grinding (i.e. porting) .
I’d like to see if just opening the lower transfers will help or hurt. I only say that because you see a lot of guys who start playing with porting open lowers but nothing else. They blow the lowers open thinking they’re helping.. is it or is it not? Well I’d like to see dyno runs to see. I know it’s not easy because you need to take the cylinder on and off so it’s labor intensive but who knows maybe someday. Just an idea 🤷♂️.. Thanks for the helpful vids Joe.
I second this👍🏻
I third this, lol... Port it leave Lowers stock and do a pull... Then open up. I can tell u when I ported my BB 361 cyclinder the Lowers are so tight I could. Not start with a normal sized bit... I had to use the dremel straight carbide bit 3mm wide!
Great, I learned a lot from your videos! Gasket delete, as easy mod, for the next step to see how much can improve without stronger modifications.
step 5; base gasket delete then dyno! step 6; basic port job then dyno.
I'm liking the baby step method on this build. I dabble in saw modding but I get impatient and just do it all at once outside of muffler mods. I mod some and never port them. Id like to see the small steps continue. Full muffler gutting next. Then just a base gasket delete. Then porting without machine work and last, machine work. If you can after you already ported it. Planning involved for those to be done in seperate steps obviously. I have faith you can math it out. 😊 keep up the vids. Still my favorite saw channel.
Area under the graph is huge with the mods . Well worth it .
That’s a fantastic new video opening or introduction,man!!! Looks awesome and extremely professional!!!
I like this step by step build up with numbers to show what is what. It would be cool to see the same intake and exhaust mods with the stock carb to see if the carb swap or air flow is helping more. I’m sure the carb makes a larger difference the further the build goes, especially if ported. I think sticking with hand tools only will be best to see how far it can go before machining is needed. I vote gutting the exhaust next, then base gasket delete, then timing advance. Then maybe some very simple porting that could be accomplished with hand files only?
Hey Joe, great vid... What I think many may like to see is what a fleece filter does.... For a worksaw most will run fleece for protection... Would just be nice to see what power loss would be with the loss of flow from the fleece vs the mesh. Cheers bud! Awesome vids
+1 this idea. Can we add a foam filter to this test as well? Maybe a Red Beard Saws filter?
Sometimes remembering where things go can be is a real issue
Nice build. I would like to see a base gasket delete then some mild porting no machine work
Nice work on adding the intro to the video. Your channel has come a long way brother!
I appreciate it! Thank you!
I’d like to see a gasket delete step. No porting just dropping the cylinder and see how much it does.
That’s how I made the fastest stihl ms290 I’ve seen left everything stock except I put a husky 372x-torq carb on it and muffler mod. Was a ripper. More gas=more power
Really enjoying the small steps and dyno plotting Joe ! Great series going on here
Show us everything joe .i love All the nitty gritty
“HEY Now!!!” Crackerjack!!!! That’s what I’m talking about!!!! She’s choochin Now, Baby!!!
Love that you showed the mistakes and symptoms. Also loving the step by step measurements. Put everything in perspective.
Excellent Series!!
Appreciate the time and effort to make the mods and dyno them. Swapped an 039 carb onto a g366....should of just gutted the intake elbow. Haha. More gains.....less work.
Great video series. 👍
They have been working professionally for me but I’ve definitely been swapping over a good used topend or the meteor topend kit the occasional crank shaft setup with those but several of the aftermarket cranks are still running great. 32:1 obviously because it’s just not a real nikasil lining I’ll use SKF bearings but I oil them more with the 90cc size or 70… 36:1 or 40:1 on the little displacement saw’s just helps them run longer….
I look forward to seeing how you open those mufflers.
Hope you have a good weekend sir.
Great videos buddy! Can you just do a mild port job and base gasket delete no machine work keep ot simple for the small starting out guys with out a lathe.
Love the new intro
I like the into Joe
Thank you!
Great video! Predictably, there is a wide range of "how far to go" in the comments.
I'll just say, "keep going & taking us along."
And as we progress & a machine is required (lathe/mill/grinder) don't be afraid/reluctant to use it...... that's just a part of the process to do it right. Thanks!
I would like to see what base gasket delete does
Awesome video Joe, I appreciate the step by step build. Any chance of a timing change and running a non restricted coil?
We will do timing advance, but I think these coils are unlimited
Great video as usual sir,
When it comes to the clone saws I think a carb swap is in order, if for no other reason than to get away from the clone carbs.
Every clone carb I’ve dealt with wouldn’t hold a tune.
Sparkplug side gap to see if any dyno gain
Great vid. brother, maybe next time you showing how to modified carb 3120 added h-jet mode? Very interested☺️
Have not done the carb myself yet....
I'd like to see muffler mod, then a pipe simple iron horse pipe. Advance the timing. Next would be a gasket delete no machine work. Home tools only. Grinder and flap wheel for cylinder clearance. 😂 Then port work. Depending on the piston maybe a dome if it doesn't have one. Like to see a single ring setup as compared to a dual if it is a two ring piston.
I will definitely do the gasket delete next
Would love to see base gasket delete them another dyno run next please
I'd like to see what the muffler mod and intake horn did/could do with the stock carb.... I could mod a muffler and cut the intake horn while sitting by a campfire, I probably won't have a bigger carb to throw on.
Great video as usual. I’d be curious to see what I’d does with no muffler at all. Does it even run? If it does, does it lose torque? Horsepower? Just would be interesting to see.
Also, do cheap vs expensive plugs make a difference? A warmer or colder plug?
That's close to stock power for a husqvarna 372
If you're able to i'd like to see you throw the you're 170 pipe on it just to see what does
You should advance the timing before you go in to it And DYNO
👍👍👍
👍👍👍👍
Hi Joe, I would be curious to see what a timing advance and timing retard from the factory keyed timing would do to power output on the dyno. After I did a mild port job with a base gasket delete I felt my G366 ran stronger with a little timing retard. I was getting too much kick back with factory timing along with the backwards running when trying to start the saw.
The 366s seem to have hot timing from factory... Certainly don't need an advance imo... But until I throw a timing light on it and see where it is, I wont know for sure.... Mine. Kicks too!
Does an oem stihl wrist pin (tapered) actually make any tiny measurable difference over the slightly heavier non tapered pins? Or is that one of those things we just do cuz it sounds nice
👍🏻👏
How do you know what carb fits and dont fit and if its bigger or smaller? I have a 036 i wouldnt mind a bigger carb and some sort of better air filter
Cheapest big bore kit you can find
Hey Joe, any chance you tried just the muffler mod with the stock Carb? Just curious if it was close?
Thanks!
Not yet.
Joe, will swapping a cs620 carb onto a cs590 worth it, I was going to try a knock off carb, I ordered the off set key from gearhead?
Yes, the 620 carb is a nice addition. Especially with the cheaper options available. Helps the muffler mod and other mods work just that much better.
Just ordered the offset key and filter o ring kit from your store. Red beard air filter is what I wanted but out of stock. Hey v twin do you have a link to where you are getting your 620 carb? Thanks. Love the content on this channel. Mistake parts bought from sawsalvage.
Timing adVance
What about ceramic bearings?
I have not used those. But I hear they do not last well in a saw.
@@dynojoemods2764 I can imagine that 😅
Build a pipe
I don’t see any reason to buy a Chinese junk carb , just learn to fix it
great job,, g660 owner, go as far as you can
👍👍👍