When I got my first lee powder drop it was sloppy like yours. I drilled a 1/16 hole through the bottom connector and rod and stuck a finish nail in and cut the excess off the nail and no more slop.
In watching this video it’s evident that your problem is at the lower end of the plastic actuating arm . With the reset attachment removed , the screw holding it on needs to be re installed in the hole behind the arm to keep it in the charge position slot . Without that screw in there it’s going to want to push into the no charge slot and with continuous use will gain slop . Set up properly , these will throw charges as accurate as anything on the market and then some .
I was having issues with mine using the 38/357 powder through die. I ended up using the insert from the 9mm PTD, which is a touch longer, and it solved the problem. I use a different die to flare so that wasn’t an issue for me.
I have the same measure . It don't click or shake ,or have any play . However it does leak a little and I can't adj it out . Try adj the die up so the plastic does not hit or bottom out on the main housing.
Adjusting the die as in the powder through expanding die? I cant adjust that out in my case because that's what gives me my case mouth belling. I kinda gave up on this measure and want to try the auto-disk instead for my ball powders.
Mine doesn't have quite that much play when moving it by hand . The tension on the adjusting nut and how well the drum fits the housing seems to be the key as to how well the measure works . On mine the O ring style lock nut wasn't holding . I scored the washer that the O ring rides against to keep it consistent .
I see. I'll have to double check when I get home, but I think I can get that rod where I want it inside the housing to which it connects to. Then, I'll drill a small hole all the way through the rod and the housing and put a small bolt and lock nuts on it to cinch it down to the position I need. That way itll be exactly centered when it comes to rest with no case in it. I know if you get the powder through die that doesn't bell the case mouth, you can adjust the die itself up and down to where it will actuate where you need it to but not on the powder through expander. I need it where it is to get sufficient case mouth belling.
I feel your pain. I have gone round and round for several days messing with this thing. Right out of the box, I saw that the plastic drums as well as the interior of the powder measure needed to be smoothed out, which I did. I did this because just as with metals, plastic on metal will wear, which in this case will lead to powder leakage. I polished the metal and smoothed the plastic so it moved freely and smooth. The next area of concern was with the alignment of the charge cup on top and at the bottom. Just as you have surmised it is not a "Dead Nuts" alignment. I studied this carefully and for a solid hour, realizing that the miss alignment at the top may be a mute point as the weight of the powder will/should force a full charge into the cup. The question was, will it then be 100% dumped into the case? In some cases yes, and some not so much. I think LEE compensated for this by allowing minor adjustment of the powder dropped with the key, for fine tuning. I looked long and hard, trying to understand why LEE would use so many plastic parts in critical wear areas!? I get it, to save money, but the sheer amount of slop that comes with plastic drives me nuts. The long plastic lever, with no detail on how to adjust was a big issue for me, and how do you use or adjust the screw located right behind the lever!? Through trial and error I was hell bent on a resolution and fixed the plastic lever to the point of breaking the tab off! I know, I can hear it already, "Should have bought, Green, Blue or Yellow"!
Mine is the same way. Just got my kit, a few weeks ago. I disconnected the linkage and made a lever, hornady or rcbs style. So basically it's no longer case actuated, I have to rotate the lever, but it takes 1/2 second longer and now I feel I can trust it to throw consistent accurate loads, my initial tests also confirm this.
I have less play and no play in the riser. Mine also doesn't move back completely to the top to full open, but it opens at the top most of the way. However, I must be getting consistent 'filling' as I get consistent measures with Unique and H335 with no leaking. Loaded thousands of rounds over 2 years. The bit of play isn't evidenced in actual use. I did put graphite onto the plastic drum surface as recommended by Lee (used a #2 pencil to 'color' it).
That's good that you have no leaking. Someone told me that Lee came out with new drums that they will send you that are somhow different than the originals. They supposedly make them leak less, but I haven't bothered with it. Have you heard anything about them?
tin man try backing out the powder assembly a turn or two from the base of the expanding die . That won't change your flair ,your not moving the die ,just the powder measure.
2years on from you posting I have the exact issues there is over a grain in variation, haven’t yet thrown a charge and seated and projectile, I will never trust it. I have tried all the troubleshoots, I have run hopper after hopper through it measuring every charge and it just doesn’t throw accurately, he’ll it’s not even predictably inaccurate it is just wild
You may not have a gazillion views for this one, but this video did the trick for me. Others have explained it but I understood you, thanks. Now, with that part being said I do notice what you were talking about the indexing of the position of the actual measuring adjuster it self, meaning the 1oklock start and it should stop at around the 5. When I stop I can reach and manually turn it a little more like if it was slop.
Yes, I have one with the same problem. That plastic rod is the issue. If you look close it's also bent a tiny bit. Those drive components need to be made of steel. I've got 3 of these, 1 actually works reliably, 1 has this excess play issue, and the other had an issue with the main body casting. Very disappointed.
I have 2. One for rifle, one for pistol. Was usually pretty good but bound up yesterday with wc844 badly. So frustrated that I had to leave my reloading room before I threw the rifle one away. I'm going to polish up the inside and the drum itself as that has seemed to help a lot of people. I have slop as well. Ill see about putting a shim in to account for that perhaps. I have hope. I dont have money for the Hornady case actuated linkage and powder thrower.
I used the auto disk for a long time and it worked better. Still leaked a little with fine ball powders, but it was better. I run a Dillon powder measure now and it's perfect.
I have a similar problem but mine overtravels at the rest position which is just opposite of yours. I don't have the same looseness in the linkage but I can turn my drum back & forth in the rest position just as much as yours. The slop in mine is limited to the two metal gears in the drum housing. I can't have +/- .8 Gr in my loads, not even close.
I gave up on thispowdermeasure for fine ball powder. It workedgreatwithflake or extruded powders, which I dont typically use on a progressive. Gave it to my brother in law 😁
I totally missed your comment! Sorry, Willie! It works okay with Bullseye powder so I'll keep it for loading my 45 rounds for now. Until I get an auto-disk, then we'll try that out!
One has that much play also, but I’m surprised to find that it still delivers accurate measures! The “slop” reduces significantly with adjustment of the powder/expander die but then my case mouth flare is not where I want it to be!
TinMan ...... played with it today, one revelation is that the bottom hole is not so important , the drum only needs to go about 2/3rds of the way down for full delivery ( mark the cast body with the drum removed- the hole is actually quite large!). Once that was not a concern I was able to balance the amount of mouth flare and ran nearly 100 rounds very neatly! I think the rigidity of the plastic deactivation arm plays a part too (I removed the little screw and it seemed to make a difference - don’t how or why!) Thanks for your video - it’s made my press run a bit better!
That's a good suggestion, but that would give me less of a bell on my case mouth and I have it set to right where I need it. I think I'm going to have to have the measure and case belling in separate stations.
I went through 3 of them with various problems and I sent them back to lee . The last one wasn’t any better. So it sits on my shelf gathering dust . Lee won’t admit the have a problem
If someone would make a Lyman Brass Smith powder measure that was case activated, it would be a gold mine. Until then, I'm with you and ditched the Lee. I have a Dillon measure and it is perfect.
I absolutely hate mine. Willie Bulletman wants one, I’m giving it to him to use as a hand thrower. Not to mention the ball powder spilling all over the place.
I heard Kenny over at Eagle Eye has one he doesn't want anymore either 🤣🤣 I use flake powders (Bullseye and Titegroup) and there's powder all over my press too. We should all send Willie our auto drums so he can have one for each charge weight!
Mines going airborne! Haha. I second the handthrow. I'm thinking of trying out the Lee Deluxe Powder Measure. I second what Ozark Says. Im trying to figure out to how to incorporate the Brass smith onto my BLP
@@EagleEyeShooting I have the Deluxe Perfect powder measure and it's awesome. Loaded thousands of rounds with it and it doesn't leak near as bad as the auto drum and throws consistently with bullseye and titegroup. If I'm not mistaken, doesn't someone make an adapter where you can screw a Lyman thrower onto the powder through expander die?
I purchased one 2 years ago and had problems with it from the beginning. I sent it back to lee and and was sent a replacements . And guess what the same issue. As much fan fair it get they aren’t worth the time or the money . It just sits on my shelf gathering dust and taking up space
They are a little problematic. I did think it threw flake powders pretty well, but I have since upgraded to a Dillon measure and haven't looked back. You could always do what I did and gift the Lee measure to your brother-in-law 😁🤣👍
I gave mine to my brother in law. Lol. Went to a Dillon measure. But, theres a guy on here named Psyko Klown that just did a video on fixing his. You may find that helpful.
Tried using it for the first time. Dialed it in to my charge, threw my first and it was on. Threw two more after that and they were light. Reset everything and it did the same. This time my disconnect won't reset and its leaking powder. And yes I tightened up a little bit on the screw. I thought this was supposed to be the greatest thing from the videos I have watched. WTF.
I hear you, man. This thing is finicky. I use it when I throw flake powders like Bullseye and it does pretty well most of the time, little leakage here and there but nothing horrible. If I use it with a fine ball powder, I lose a full charge of powder every ten throws. It's ridiculous. I've switched to the Auto Disk Pro for the ball powder and that works a lot better. Havent tried the disk using flake though. I feel your pain!
I use mine on a 4 hole Lee turret. So it bounces around as it indexes and seems to hold accuracy on my Dillon beam scale. I have used Tightgroup, CFE Pistol, Trailboss, Accurate 5-7-9, & TruBlue. Accuracy of the scale is 1/10th grain and the measure seems to hold that. I do not have leaks all over either. I have replaced the hand gear inside. I have not used Unique yet so I am curious how it works out. Uncle Jim really likes his New Lyman for Unique. I have mine on a riser. - It does not have any wiggle like show in your video. - It has no play. - I do not know if it is how I have the die set up that keeps it from moving. I would say contact LEE.
I gotcha. Glad you got it all fixed up. It will still have play if its put together. I had it apart to clean the drum because I was getting varying charge weights when I noticed all the play in that linkage. I have an idea for a fix, but it'll have to wait for the weekend unless they rope me into working overtime Saturday. Thanks for the feedback! I wasnt sure if this was normal or not.
LIVIN CINCY I had Lee 4 holes turret and it leak with TruBlue, swap with another “funnel” , still have problem. Will buy another one and just hope have luck with the second one.
Save yourself the trouble and pass on the auto drum! 😂😂 Might have to send this one over to @Eagle Eye Shooting and have him blow it up with tannerite 💥🔨
Mine has the exact same issues yours does. Plus it leaks like crazy. I put it back in the box and on a shelf. Not worth the time or hassle to deal with customer service for the price imo. Lee stuff is all garbage except for the dies. I even got one of there cheap single stage presses for decaping. And recently tried resizing on it. It flexes like crazy. Never buying anything else from them.
Mine only leaks like crazy with fine ball powders. Flake powders dont leak quite as bad. But yes, this measure is garbage. I've heard really good things about the auto-disk measure though. Any experience with that?
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When I got my first lee powder drop it was sloppy like yours. I drilled a 1/16 hole through the bottom connector and rod and stuck a finish nail in and cut the excess off the nail and no more slop.
In watching this video it’s evident that your problem is at the lower end of the plastic actuating arm . With the reset attachment removed , the screw holding it on needs to be re installed in the hole behind the arm to keep it in the charge position slot . Without that screw in there it’s going to want to push into the no charge slot and with continuous use will gain slop . Set up properly , these will throw charges as accurate as anything on the market and then some .
I was having issues with mine using the 38/357 powder through die. I ended up using the insert from the 9mm PTD, which is a touch longer, and it solved the problem. I use a different die to flare so that wasn’t an issue for me.
That's a really good idea. I want to try a separate die for powder too. See if I can change the start and stop point of the drum.
I have the same measure . It don't click or shake ,or have any play . However it does leak a little and I can't adj it out . Try adj the die up so the plastic does not hit or bottom out on the main housing.
Adjusting the die as in the powder through expanding die? I cant adjust that out in my case because that's what gives me my case mouth belling. I kinda gave up on this measure and want to try the auto-disk instead for my ball powders.
Mine doesn't have quite that much play when moving it by hand . The tension on the adjusting nut and how well the drum fits the housing seems to be the key as to how well the measure works . On mine the O ring style lock nut wasn't holding . I scored the washer that the O ring rides against to keep it consistent .
I see. I'll have to double check when I get home, but I think I can get that rod where I want it inside the housing to which it connects to. Then, I'll drill a small hole all the way through the rod and the housing and put a small bolt and lock nuts on it to cinch it down to the position I need. That way itll be exactly centered when it comes to rest with no case in it. I know if you get the powder through die that doesn't bell the case mouth, you can adjust the die itself up and down to where it will actuate where you need it to but not on the powder through expander. I need it where it is to get sufficient case mouth belling.
I feel your pain. I have gone round and round for several days messing with this thing. Right out of the box, I saw that the plastic drums as well as the interior of the powder measure needed to be smoothed out, which I did. I did this because just as with metals, plastic on metal will wear, which in this case will lead to powder leakage. I polished the metal and smoothed the plastic so it moved freely and smooth.
The next area of concern was with the alignment of the charge cup on top and at the bottom. Just as you have surmised it is not a "Dead Nuts" alignment. I studied this carefully and for a solid hour, realizing that the miss alignment at the top may be a mute point as the weight of the powder will/should force a full charge into the cup. The question was, will it then be 100% dumped into the case? In some cases yes, and some not so much. I think LEE compensated for this by allowing minor adjustment of the powder dropped with the key, for fine tuning.
I looked long and hard, trying to understand why LEE would use so many plastic parts in critical wear areas!? I get it, to save money, but the sheer amount of slop that comes with plastic drives me nuts. The long plastic lever, with no detail on how to adjust was a big issue for me, and how do you use or adjust the screw located right behind the lever!? Through trial and error I was hell bent on a resolution and fixed the plastic lever to the point of breaking the tab off! I know, I can hear it already, "Should have bought, Green, Blue or Yellow"!
Mine is the same way. Just got my kit, a few weeks ago. I disconnected the linkage and made a lever, hornady or rcbs style. So basically it's no longer case actuated, I have to rotate the lever, but it takes 1/2 second longer and now I feel I can trust it to throw consistent accurate loads, my initial tests also confirm this.
Yep had the same thing. Diassembled it, realigned the gears viola fixed.
These can be irritating but once the bugs are worked out they’re great throwers. Thanks!
Great video and great information
I have less play and no play in the riser. Mine also doesn't move back completely to the top to full open, but it opens at the top most of the way. However, I must be getting consistent 'filling' as I get consistent measures with Unique and H335 with no leaking. Loaded thousands of rounds over 2 years. The bit of play isn't evidenced in actual use. I did put graphite onto the plastic drum surface as recommended by Lee (used a #2 pencil to 'color' it).
That's good that you have no leaking. Someone told me that Lee came out with new drums that they will send you that are somhow different than the originals. They supposedly make them leak less, but I haven't bothered with it. Have you heard anything about them?
tin man try backing out the powder assembly a turn or two from the base of the expanding die . That won't change your flair ,your not moving the die ,just the powder measure.
2years on from you posting I have the exact issues there is over a grain in variation, haven’t yet thrown a charge and seated and projectile, I will never trust it. I have tried all the troubleshoots, I have run hopper after hopper through it measuring every charge and it just doesn’t throw accurately, he’ll it’s not even predictably inaccurate it is just wild
You may not have a gazillion views for this one, but this video did the trick for me. Others have explained it but I understood you, thanks. Now, with that part being said I do notice what you were talking about the indexing of the position of the actual measuring adjuster it self, meaning the 1oklock start and it should stop at around the 5. When I stop I can reach and manually turn it a little more like if it was slop.
Yes, I have one with the same problem. That plastic rod is the issue. If you look close it's also bent a tiny bit. Those drive components need to be made of steel. I've got 3 of these, 1 actually works reliably, 1 has this excess play issue, and the other had an issue with the main body casting. Very disappointed.
Mine does the same thing, different charge each time.
I have lots of play in mine also. Just noticed it yesterday
I have 2. One for rifle, one for pistol. Was usually pretty good but bound up yesterday with wc844 badly. So frustrated that I had to leave my reloading room before I threw the rifle one away. I'm going to polish up the inside and the drum itself as that has seemed to help a lot of people. I have slop as well. Ill see about putting a shim in to account for that perhaps. I have hope. I dont have money for the Hornady case actuated linkage and powder thrower.
Exact same problem here. Worked good for 700 or so loadings the I noticed this issue too.
I used the auto disk for a long time and it worked better. Still leaked a little with fine ball powders, but it was better. I run a Dillon powder measure now and it's perfect.
I have a similar problem but mine overtravels at the rest position which is just opposite of yours. I don't have the same looseness in the linkage but I can turn my drum back & forth in the rest position just as much as yours. The slop in mine is limited to the two metal gears in the drum housing.
I can't have +/- .8 Gr in my loads, not even close.
I have no slop in my rod like yours does,,, but it will not return the powder chamber all he way to fully open just like yours!
I gave up on thispowdermeasure for fine ball powder. It workedgreatwithflake or extruded powders, which I dont typically use on a progressive. Gave it to my brother in law 😁
As long as it fills and dumps, you'll be ok. I have the same and it accurate1/10 - 2/10. Your scale is probably off +- 3% also.
Looking forward watching your vids.
Thanks, Big Al! Sorry about the late reply, I didnt get notified of a lot of comments on this vid. Thanks for watching!
You need to send that back to lee because my auto drum does not do that at all I’m sorry you got a bad one
I totally missed your comment! Sorry, Willie! It works okay with Bullseye powder so I'll keep it for loading my 45 rounds for now. Until I get an auto-disk, then we'll try that out!
One has that much play also, but I’m surprised to find that it still delivers accurate measures! The “slop” reduces significantly with adjustment of the powder/expander die but then my case mouth flare is not where I want it to be!
That was ecatly my issue too. Trying to get rid of the slop and time the holes to line up correctly would screw up my flaring.
TinMan ...... played with it today, one revelation is that the bottom hole is not so important , the drum only needs to go about 2/3rds of the way down for full delivery ( mark the cast body with the drum removed- the hole is actually quite large!). Once that was not a concern I was able to balance the amount of mouth flare and ran nearly 100 rounds very neatly!
I think the rigidity of the plastic deactivation arm plays a part too (I removed the little screw and it seemed to make a difference - don’t how or why!)
Thanks for your video - it’s made my press run a bit better!
The die is in too far. I had the same problem. One to two turns should do it.
That's a good suggestion, but that would give me less of a bell on my case mouth and I have it set to right where I need it. I think I'm going to have to have the measure and case belling in separate stations.
I went through 3 of them with various problems and I sent them back to lee . The last one wasn’t any better. So it sits on my shelf gathering dust . Lee won’t admit the have a problem
If someone would make a Lyman Brass Smith powder measure that was case activated, it would be a gold mine. Until then, I'm with you and ditched the Lee. I have a Dillon measure and it is perfect.
My feeling is that the Lee powder hopper is junk. I stopped using mine.
I agree and have done the same!
Does it work? I think you are over thinking it
I absolutely hate mine. Willie Bulletman wants one, I’m giving it to him to use as a hand thrower.
Not to mention the ball powder spilling all over the place.
I heard Kenny over at Eagle Eye has one he doesn't want anymore either 🤣🤣 I use flake powders (Bullseye and Titegroup) and there's powder all over my press too. We should all send Willie our auto drums so he can have one for each charge weight!
Mines going airborne! Haha. I second the handthrow. I'm thinking of trying out the Lee Deluxe Powder Measure. I second what Ozark Says. Im trying to figure out to how to incorporate the Brass smith onto my BLP
@@EagleEyeShooting I have the Deluxe Perfect powder measure and it's awesome. Loaded thousands of rounds with it and it doesn't leak near as bad as the auto drum and throws consistently with bullseye and titegroup. If I'm not mistaken, doesn't someone make an adapter where you can screw a Lyman thrower onto the powder through expander die?
Worked perfect for 4.5 years, now it's inaccurate as hell. Lots of slop like yours. I have to spring for some thing else, maybe lee pro auto disc.
Good info thanks
I purchased one 2 years ago and had problems with it from the beginning. I sent it back to lee and and was sent a replacements . And guess what the same issue. As much fan fair it get they aren’t worth the time or the money . It just sits on my shelf gathering dust and taking up space
They are a little problematic. I did think it threw flake powders pretty well, but I have since upgraded to a Dillon measure and haven't looked back. You could always do what I did and gift the Lee measure to your brother-in-law 😁🤣👍
I have this same problem and I can't recharge, how did you solve it?
Gave it to my brother in law and bought a Dillon.
Check with Harleychromeman he is a lee expert.
I just bought one and it leaks IMR4198 a cylindrical powder like mad. I'd appreciate any constructive suggestions.
I gave mine to my brother in law. Lol. Went to a Dillon measure. But, theres a guy on here named Psyko Klown that just did a video on fixing his. You may find that helpful.
Try 2 O-rings and see if that helps
Tried using it for the first time. Dialed it in to my charge, threw my first and it was on. Threw two more after that and they were light. Reset everything and it did the same. This time my disconnect won't reset and its leaking powder. And yes I tightened up a little bit on the screw. I thought this was supposed to be the greatest thing from the videos I have watched. WTF.
I hear you, man. This thing is finicky. I use it when I throw flake powders like Bullseye and it does pretty well most of the time, little leakage here and there but nothing horrible. If I use it with a fine ball powder, I lose a full charge of powder every ten throws. It's ridiculous. I've switched to the Auto Disk Pro for the ball powder and that works a lot better. Havent tried the disk using flake though. I feel your pain!
I'm over it I've had all the same issues f*** it I'm going to team blue
Thats what I did. Gave the Auto drum to my brother in law. Hehehehe.
you might get by with filling a little off.. but The dumping of powder is terrible
I use mine on a 4 hole Lee turret. So it bounces around as it indexes and seems to hold accuracy on my Dillon beam scale. I have used Tightgroup, CFE Pistol, Trailboss, Accurate 5-7-9, & TruBlue. Accuracy of the scale is 1/10th grain and the measure seems to hold that. I do not have leaks all over either. I have replaced the hand gear inside.
I have not used Unique yet so I am curious how it works out. Uncle Jim really likes his New Lyman for Unique.
I have mine on a riser.
- It does not have any wiggle like show in your video.
- It has no play.
- I do not know if it is how I have the die set up that keeps it from moving.
I would say contact LEE.
I was thinking about the riser. Interesting that yours doesn't have play in it. How come you replaced the hand gear inside might I ask?
@@TinManReloading - I broke it... I had it turned to tight. When I pushed the case it sheered the locator pin.
I did not take mine apart and try to move it.
I gotcha. Glad you got it all fixed up. It will still have play if its put together. I had it apart to clean the drum because I was getting varying charge weights when I noticed all the play in that linkage. I have an idea for a fix, but it'll have to wait for the weekend unless they rope me into working overtime Saturday. Thanks for the feedback! I wasnt sure if this was normal or not.
LIVIN CINCY I had Lee 4 holes turret and it leak with TruBlue, swap with another “funnel” , still have problem. Will buy another one and just hope have luck with the second one.
Mine did the same
Yep. I ditched it and went with a Dillon.
good video with a bottom line is Lee is cheap for a reason
That's not good 😲😲,I don't have any experience with that
Save yourself the trouble and pass on the auto drum! 😂😂 Might have to send this one over to @Eagle Eye Shooting and have him blow it up with tannerite 💥🔨
@@TinManReloading 🤣😂😲✔✔
Mine does the same thing, only now it won’t even drop a powder charge.
I fixed mine by replacing it with a Dillon powder measure. 🤣 Won't Lee send you a replacement?
Same issue for me
Mine has the exact same issues yours does. Plus it leaks like crazy. I put it back in the box and on a shelf. Not worth the time or hassle to deal with customer service for the price imo. Lee stuff is all garbage except for the dies. I even got one of there cheap single stage presses for decaping. And recently tried resizing on it. It flexes like crazy. Never buying anything else from them.
Mine only leaks like crazy with fine ball powders. Flake powders dont leak quite as bad. But yes, this measure is garbage. I've heard really good things about the auto-disk measure though. Any experience with that?
I have the lee auto disk powder measure (not the pro) and it leaks bullseye all over my bench 😕
I sold my Lee auto measures and bought a Dillon. Problems went away! My auto disk leaked too, but not as bad as my auto drum. I gave up.
@@TinManReloading My auto disk pro doesn't leak at all. Which Dillon did you get and does it work with the Lee expander dies?