I, like many of you watching this video, am frustrated and saddened that the hard plastic water ring has been discontinued. Don't know why, because it was so functional and long-lasting. Hmmm, maybe that's it! However, until/unless it goes back into production and is made available again, I recommend the tree water bladder as a substitute. The bladder has the advantage of holding 15 gallons vs 5 gallons. It also has the disadvantage of being vulnerable to rodent incisors! Make sure you remove and store these inside for the winter. If you don't, they become the equivalent of Club Med for field mice and voles that chew through them in the autumn and overwinter in them. An expensive way of supporting nasty little, destructive critters.
Maybe it was because it is a set size and you can't really wrap it around bigger trees like you can the others. For heat stressed areas using these rings is key during heat waves and you can't really put the hard plastic one around bigger trees.
I was searching all over for this watering ring. I'm glad that I checked the comments and found out it has been discontinued or I would still be searching. Thanks!
I love your dry sense of humor. Thank you. I just planted my first tree, and it would break my heart if it died, so I've been doing a lot of research on how to water correctly.
Excellent point and I mentioned it briefly without much information on how to actually measure percolation rates. There is another video in this series where I demonstrate how to conduct a percolation test (drainage rate) on your landscape. In a nutshell, dig/auger a hole 24 inches deep. Fill with water. When it drains completely, fill again. The second filling should take no longer than 24 hours for a "normal" soil. If it takes longer, that's a poor percolation rate and the amount of water (dose) per irrigation will need to be reduced to avoid drowning the root system. How much less? Depend. Did it take 30 hours to drain completely? Reduce by about a gallon or so. Did it take 72 hours? Cut the dose down to about 1/3...at least. Has it still not drained? Learn to love willows or tamaracks...or, replant on a raised berm to avoid the poor drainage rate. If you can't even fill the hole the first time, then it would be wise to add some organic matter (along with the surface mulch) to hold the moisture better, and increase the frequency (not the dose, since it's draining like a flushed toilet) to 3-4 times a week through that first year of establishment.
Super helpful (and entertaining) video! I love the idea of the five gallon buckets and they're easy to stack to put away for the winter. As for the people who complain about the use of the water bladders, maybe you can recruit them to do weeding since they obviously have nothing better to do...
The company that supplied my larger trees reccommends watering from the edge of the rootball inwards, and as the tree starts ro establish, to water more generously at the edges. I have established some fairly large trees, and now water them further than the canopy extends when needed.
Both the dose (gallons) and frequency (interval of days between doses) depends on soil texture (e.g. sandy or clayey), percolation rate (normal is 24 inches in 24 hours), the size of the plant, type of plant, and exposure. I gave you the base line recommendations, but often they need to be customized for the landscape. In droughty, windy Saint Paul this summer, I have been using a frequency of 2-3 days for newly planted trees...not normal.
This video is a scream! I miss St Paul, where Spring lasts a half day, then it's 100 degrees for three weeks, then back to Winter. Such a growing season! I'll never forget that drought of 1988 or the 1991 Halloween storm.
If you look closely at the picture, the name "Water Ring" is on it. It smacks of "product placement," but there are several devices called water ring, so I don't feel too bad about letting it be seen.
When you go to the supermarket, go the bakery department and ask for the frosting buckets. They are free and empty. Around three gallons sometimes. Cut holes in bottom and fill with water. Or cut bottom and place next to tree or bush and fill with water. Actually, if you want your roots to grow in every direction,,place more than one bucket next to tree. When watering deep, you can skip a few days.
Sharon: I LOVE THIS RECOMMENDATION! Being mostly Scottish, I appreciate anything thrifty and really appreciate any efforts to reuse materials. Thanks so much for joining all of the comments and recommendations.
I have no clue why anyone would buy those things. Thanks for the info on how much water it needs, some videos saying dump 15 gallons at a time, and I thought the was excessive.
I really like the hard plastic water device I have been looking to get them. I cant find them. I googled high impact water and i am not having any luck. I wish he gave more info for that one. My trees are not near a hose. Im looking for a solution.
During years two and three bump up the dose a bit, probably to the tune of 3-5 times the first year dose, depending on the soil texture and percolation rate. The frequency drops to once per week, unless it's a droughty, hot, windy summer. In that case, mulching would be critical and watering a couple of times a week may be warranted...again, depending on the soil, exposure, etc. Those are good rules-of-thumb, though. A key for years two and three is monitoring wilting or early leaf margin scorch. Catch it early, adjust the dose and frequency, and the trees can be saved.
In most cases and in normal summers with a soil that drains well, two to three times a week. If the soils drains slowly, maybe only once a week...you kinda need to experiment a bit by conducting a percolation test (referred to earlier in these notes) and by digging down into the soil near the roots to see if the soil is moist. If your area is experiencing a very rainy season, you may only need to water once a week or two. Root rot is caused by a fungal pathogen that moves with surface water that runs down a slope. So, the pathogen must be present, and there must be vulnerable plants down slope. Quite realistically, root rot is more of a problem in production tree/shrub nurseries and is not very common in landscapes...thank goodness.
For those of you looking for sources of the various watering "devices," simply type the general names (e.g. landscape tree watering well, tree water bags/bladders, tree soaker hose) into any browser, and you will be greeted with a variety of these devices from a variety of online companies in a variety of materials and colors. Also, new devices are being introduced each year and most are very effective.
Was there a reason that you did not include drip irrigation in your watering options? Same idea as using soaker hose, but you know exactly what the flow rate is based on the emitters you install. And it's easy to connect to an automatic sprinkler control to manage the frequency and volume.
Thanks, Jeff. Drip irrigation is certainly a useful watering method but probably a little bit more advanced and on the grower side of things. Drip irrigation is an economical way to water rows of plants / containers. You could certainly design a drip irrigation system, for example making a circle out of the irrigation pipe with emitters spaced evenly, or tapping into the main irrigation pipe using spaghetti tubing.
@@UMNUrbanForestry Maybe it's a regional thing. Here' in the Southwest, drip irrigation is standard in residential landscape. To manage regular watering for new trees, I make a loop of drip tube around the tree. As the tree grows I expand the loop and add emitters. This gets connected to a PVC line back to my valve station and sprinkler controller, and run on an automatic schedule
Personally, I love drip irrigation when and where it can be set up. The most efficient use of water and as you said, easy to regulate the water flow. We use it all of the time in our field operations and our research gravel beds. I didn't mention it simply because I wanted to feature the simplest materials/methods for supplying water, and drip irrigation takes a bit more time and forethought to set up, especially on boulevard trees...much simpler on landscape trees.
Not the exact product, but similar www.amleo.com/bio-plex-drip-irrigation-tree-ring-25gal/p/TRR25?mkwid=|dc&pcrid=510045705290&pkw=&pmt=&plc=&kc=&prd=TRR25&slid=&prd=TRR25&pgrid=118765786044&ptaid=pla-1155851962734&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5auGBhDEARIsAFyNm9F3cWZojbqCsuyBO14UoS0Ls3KBSI2Gz7I2Tz-s1czC-odu2OzCDIQaAtaBEALw_wcB
Yes, caliper is the diameter of the stem, usually taken about six inches off the ground. You may also hear the term "diameter at breast height" or "DBH" which is the diameter of the stem taken at ~4.5 ft from the ground.
Caliper is a grower's term and it is the stem diameter, measured 6 inches above ground. If that measurement is greater than 4 inches, measure the stem diameter 12 inches above ground, which negates the exaggerated stem diameter at 6 inches caused by the flare of the trunk as it enters the ground. These are standard terms and points of measurement that the tree nursery industry uses for trees.
Dear UMN Urban Forestry, there are some misleading facts in this video. One of them can cause damage of a tree. I tried to contact prof. Johnson but he is already retired from the university. Can I get it communication with the video author or your department? Tnx. Martin
Can't seem to find the durable plastic 4.5gal water ring anywhere online; seems because it is so durable it is less profitable. Please let me know what the brand is so I can do a better search. Thx
"Water Ring" is the brand. They may have discontinued that exact one, but there are similar landscape tree water rings online from different companies. Some are enclosed rings, some are open.
Different people learn in different ways. With some, just listening is enough. Most new learners tend to be visual learners so I try to combine these messages in order to help the most people. Quite honestly, I actually listen to youtube videos quite often while I am doing other things that don't require intense concentration, so I do appreciate your learning style.
I, like many of you watching this video, am frustrated and saddened that the hard plastic water ring has been discontinued. Don't know why, because it was so functional and long-lasting. Hmmm, maybe that's it! However, until/unless it goes back into production and is made available again, I recommend the tree water bladder as a substitute. The bladder has the advantage of holding 15 gallons vs 5 gallons. It also has the disadvantage of being vulnerable to rodent incisors! Make sure you remove and store these inside for the winter. If you don't, they become the equivalent of Club Med for field mice and voles that chew through them in the autumn and overwinter in them. An expensive way of supporting nasty little, destructive critters.
Maybe it was because it is a set size and you can't really wrap it around bigger trees like you can the others. For heat stressed areas using these rings is key during heat waves and you can't really put the hard plastic one around bigger trees.
I like your practical logic on this comment...never even thought of that perspective! Thanks for adding in a great observation.
@@garyjohnson2224 Thanks for your video and taking the time out to do this. I sent this to some people planting trees. Do it for the trees! 😃🌳🌲🌴
Wow! Thank YOU for taking the time to pen this note. I humbly appreciate it.
I was searching all over for this watering ring. I'm glad that I checked the comments and found out it has been discontinued or I would still be searching. Thanks!
Knowing all these ways to water is extremely helpful, cool.
Give this man a raise.
I love your dry sense of humor. Thank you. I just planted my first tree, and it would break my heart if it died, so I've been doing a lot of research on how to water correctly.
Love your sense of humor 🤣
09:50 😄
Excellent information video. Well done!!
for anyone who had to google like me;
1.75 inches is around 4.4cm, so 3.5 gallons is 15
2 inches is around 5cm and so 4 gallons is 18 litres
Love your "DRY" Humor ... Cheers
A good point to bring to attention the soil types when watering the new tree. Thank you, for the video.
Excellent point and I mentioned it briefly without much information on how to actually measure percolation rates. There is another video in this series where I demonstrate how to conduct a percolation test (drainage rate) on your landscape. In a nutshell, dig/auger a hole 24 inches deep. Fill with water. When it drains completely, fill again. The second filling should take no longer than 24 hours for a "normal" soil. If it takes longer, that's a poor percolation rate and the amount of water (dose) per irrigation will need to be reduced to avoid drowning the root system. How much less? Depend. Did it take 30 hours to drain completely? Reduce by about a gallon or so. Did it take 72 hours? Cut the dose down to about 1/3...at least. Has it still not drained? Learn to love willows or tamaracks...or, replant on a raised berm to avoid the poor drainage rate.
If you can't even fill the hole the first time, then it would be wise to add some organic matter (along with the surface mulch) to hold the moisture better, and increase the frequency (not the dose, since it's draining like a flushed toilet) to 3-4 times a week through that first year of establishment.
@@garyjohnson2224 Fantastic reply, that's commitment rarely seen on YT.
I'm starting to plant quite a few trees to try and establish a new woodland and this was extremely helpful. Many thanks and all the best from Greece.
Super helpful (and entertaining) video! I love the idea of the five gallon buckets and they're easy to stack to put away for the winter. As for the people who complain about the use of the water bladders, maybe you can recruit them to do weeding since they obviously have nothing better to do...
Great presentation. I'm definitely going to try one or more of these options!
Great video. The tree diapers will be great for summer heat stress. Gonna pick some up.
I use buckets and they are great. I even bring them to street trees on the block.
Treero!
Great and simple! Thank you!
You're the man. UM looks cool.
The company that supplied my larger trees reccommends watering from the edge of the rootball inwards, and as the tree starts ro establish, to water more generously at the edges. I have established some fairly large trees, and now water them further than the canopy extends when needed.
Haha love the "Cut off the branches to install the ring" then followed up with "They work well (water well) joke! :)
Have learnt a lot.
In our Carolina red clay soil trees Charlotte recommends 5 gallons once a week for the trees it plants
Both the dose (gallons) and frequency (interval of days between doses) depends on soil texture (e.g. sandy or clayey), percolation rate (normal is 24 inches in 24 hours), the size of the plant, type of plant, and exposure. I gave you the base line recommendations, but often they need to be customized for the landscape. In droughty, windy Saint Paul this summer, I have been using a frequency of 2-3 days for newly planted trees...not normal.
nice work
This video is a scream!
I miss St Paul, where Spring lasts a half day, then it's 100 degrees for three weeks, then back to Winter. Such a growing season!
I'll never forget that drought of 1988 or the 1991 Halloween storm.
I can't for the life of me find where to buy the high impact plastic option. Anyone have a link they can post?
What's the name of the hard plastic one?
Thanks for the video
If you look closely at the picture, the name "Water Ring" is on it. It smacks of "product placement," but there are several devices called water ring, so I don't feel too bad about letting it be seen.
Try Greenland Gardener Watering Tree Ring.
When you go to the supermarket, go the bakery department and ask for the frosting buckets. They are free and empty. Around three gallons sometimes. Cut holes in bottom and fill with water. Or cut bottom and place next to tree or bush and fill with water. Actually, if you want your roots to grow in every direction,,place more than one bucket next to tree. When watering deep, you can skip a few days.
Sharon: I LOVE THIS RECOMMENDATION! Being mostly Scottish, I appreciate anything thrifty and really appreciate any efforts to reuse materials. Thanks so much for joining all of the comments and recommendations.
I have no clue why anyone would buy those things. Thanks for the info on how much water it needs, some videos saying dump 15 gallons at a time, and I thought the was excessive.
I really like the hard plastic water device
I have been looking to get them. I cant find them. I googled high impact water and i am not having any luck. I wish he gave more info for that one. My trees are not near a hose. Im looking for a solution.
Great video. How about year 2 and 3 how much watering is needed?
During years two and three bump up the dose a bit, probably to the tune of 3-5 times the first year dose, depending on the soil texture and percolation rate. The frequency drops to once per week, unless it's a droughty, hot, windy summer. In that case, mulching would be critical and watering a couple of times a week may be warranted...again, depending on the soil, exposure, etc. Those are good rules-of-thumb, though. A key for years two and three is monitoring wilting or early leaf margin scorch. Catch it early, adjust the dose and frequency, and the trees can be saved.
How often do you fill buckets if you choose this method and am curious why it doesn't cause root rot?
In most cases and in normal summers with a soil that drains well, two to three times a week. If the soils drains slowly, maybe only once a week...you kinda need to experiment a bit by conducting a percolation test (referred to earlier in these notes) and by digging down into the soil near the roots to see if the soil is moist. If your area is experiencing a very rainy season, you may only need to water once a week or two.
Root rot is caused by a fungal pathogen that moves with surface water that runs down a slope. So, the pathogen must be present, and there must be vulnerable plants down slope. Quite realistically, root rot is more of a problem in production tree/shrub nurseries and is not very common in landscapes...thank goodness.
Help, where to buy plastic tube ring?
For those of you looking for sources of the various watering "devices," simply type the general names (e.g. landscape tree watering well, tree water bags/bladders, tree soaker hose) into any browser, and you will be greeted with a variety of these devices from a variety of online companies in a variety of materials and colors. Also, new devices are being introduced each year and most are very effective.
Great.
Was there a reason that you did not include drip irrigation in your watering options? Same idea as using soaker hose, but you know exactly what the flow rate is based on the emitters you install. And it's easy to connect to an automatic sprinkler control to manage the frequency and volume.
Thanks, Jeff. Drip irrigation is certainly a useful watering method but probably a little bit more advanced and on the grower side of things. Drip irrigation is an economical way to water rows of plants / containers. You could certainly design a drip irrigation system, for example making a circle out of the irrigation pipe with emitters spaced evenly, or tapping into the main irrigation pipe using spaghetti tubing.
@@UMNUrbanForestry Maybe it's a regional thing. Here' in the Southwest, drip irrigation is standard in residential landscape. To manage regular watering for new trees, I make a loop of drip tube around the tree. As the tree grows I expand the loop and add emitters. This gets connected to a PVC line back to my valve station and sprinkler controller, and run on an automatic schedule
Personally, I love drip irrigation when and where it can be set up. The most efficient use of water and as you said, easy to regulate the water flow. We use it all of the time in our field operations and our research gravel beds. I didn't mention it simply because I wanted to feature the simplest materials/methods for supplying water, and drip irrigation takes a bit more time and forethought to set up, especially on boulevard trees...much simpler on landscape trees.
what was that tire-looking thing? I can't find anything like that on Amazon.
He added a note at the top that they’re not being made anymore. 🙁
Where do you find that black hard plastic ring? I can't seem to find them anywhere.
Hi Craig, good observation. I'm having a tough time finding it now online as well. Ryan - UFor
Not the exact product, but similar www.amleo.com/bio-plex-drip-irrigation-tree-ring-25gal/p/TRR25?mkwid=|dc&pcrid=510045705290&pkw=&pmt=&plc=&kc=&prd=TRR25&slid=&prd=TRR25&pgrid=118765786044&ptaid=pla-1155851962734&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5auGBhDEARIsAFyNm9F3cWZojbqCsuyBO14UoS0Ls3KBSI2Gz7I2Tz-s1czC-odu2OzCDIQaAtaBEALw_wcB
@@UMNUrbanForestry Thank you for the link. This product apparently feeds mosquitoes!
I am still looking for the black ring he is showing in the video.
Name of the product is: Greenland Gardener Watering Tree Ring and the company is out of business. Out of Stock in Amazon and Sam's club
what does caliper mean ? Is it the diameter of the tree ?
Yes, caliper is the diameter of the stem, usually taken about six inches off the ground. You may also hear the term "diameter at breast height" or "DBH" which is the diameter of the stem taken at ~4.5 ft from the ground.
Caliper is a grower's term and it is the stem diameter, measured 6 inches above ground. If that measurement is greater than 4 inches, measure the stem diameter 12 inches above ground, which negates the exaggerated stem diameter at 6 inches caused by the flare of the trunk as it enters the ground. These are standard terms and points of measurement that the tree nursery industry uses for trees.
Dear UMN Urban Forestry, there are some misleading facts in this video. One of them can cause damage of a tree. I tried to contact prof. Johnson but he is already retired from the university. Can I get it communication with the video author or your department? Tnx. Martin
I would invite you to post your concerns so they can be addressed and hopefully help everyone visiting this site. Never, ever, any judgements.
I took aboriculture from him 20 years ago. That started my love affair with trees. I've planted at least 2000 since then.
When you cut a plastic barrel into 4 pieces you can make at least 4 "well type" watering devices.
the dude abides
Can't seem to find the durable plastic 4.5gal water ring anywhere online; seems because it is so durable it is less profitable. Please let me know what the brand is so I can do a better search. Thx
Hi Kitty Witty, it seems like those water rings are tough to source currently. It's too bad as a lot of folks are interested in them.- Ryan, UFOR
"Water Ring" is the brand. They may have discontinued that exact one, but there are similar landscape tree water rings online from different companies. Some are enclosed rings, some are open.
the 2 week diapers they have for kids now..HAHA
My ex killed my trees with a string trimmer!
8:09 Treegator ... Product placement :|
Oops! My bad.
Do not show just talk
Different people learn in different ways. With some, just listening is enough. Most new learners tend to be visual learners so I try to combine these messages in order to help the most people. Quite honestly, I actually listen to youtube videos quite often while I am doing other things that don't require intense concentration, so I do appreciate your learning style.