My dad was actually a linoleum installer known for being the best around since my grandfather had a linoleum store in south Boston. He had a T-shirt that said “Professional layer”.
I started researching flooring for a shop in my basement last year and saw your video. It appears my shop is about the same size as yours. I ended up going with the same flooring that you did (black with the blue specks). I painted the walls a bright white and after installing the flooring the walls now appear to be a very pale blue. I'm coming up on a year now since I did the installation and I couldn't be happier. I use a shop vac with a Dust Stopper to vacuum up the sawdust which works good. At the end of the day I run a Shark Rotator around and it does a great job picking up the fine dust. Since I have to break down sheets of plywood in my garage so I can manage to get them downstairs I've definitely noticed the huge difference in the comfort of the rubber flooring compared to working on the concrete in my garage. Thanks for your video!
i went with the foam puzzle pieces for my shop. with my spine issues the padding was the most important variable. was a complete game changer for me. no problems cleaning it up whatsoever. i wish i had done this years ago too
I am so glad you posted this on the very day I decided that I needed to upgrade my shop's concrete flooring. Your thorough overview and high praise of the heavy duty rubber flooring have me convinced. I've got about 350 sqft to cover, and this looks like the best solution. Perhaps I'll post photos or a video. Thanks for the information!
I think you probably made the right choice with the rolls, I had the same thought about sweeping while you were talking lol. I've got gravel with plastic sheeting and some free carpet over top in my pole barn shop. Holds onto the dust a bit more but like with your rubber floor it isn't as hard on stuff you drop and machine legs don't sink.
For anyone thinking about the foam puzzle pieces. Like James said sweeping is a bit of a pain. Chips and shavings come up east. There tends to be a fine layer of dust that is left so I follow with a vacuum. Also, wood filler seams to instantly bond with the stuff. On the other hand, with rubber shoes, it is great for antifatigue.
I have several of the foam puzzle pieces in front of my bench simply to help with my bad knees (old sports injuries). And they DO help a lot. But I would love to have that rubber flooring all over my shop. Looks awesome in your shop, James!
If the cracks are annoying a product my grandfather invented and patented might help although I doubt you could find it. Namkub enterprises. It was a roll of extruded plastic with a T shape that fit in seams of linoleum to keep things from falling in the cracks when it was only 3 or 6 feet wide.
My woodshop is only about 80ft², with a wood floor over dirt. I definitely like the idea of the rubber as insulation. It'll keep cold air from seeping in from underneath. I may go with the horse mats since I can probably get them dirt cheap as 2nds.
I have the exact same material in my small 12x10 shop, and it has saved many a chisel and plane. Cost of tool replacement far exceeds cost of the material. You can also glue down rubber floor as a permanent solution if shifting is a concern.
@@DaileyWoodworks the floor is very shock absorbing, but does not allow dropped items to bounce. Same stuff they use in commercial gyms for weight room flooring. Easy to clean too. No real odour to it though.
It would be a good idea to glue the edges together using contact adhesive, that way you don't have to worry about catching an edge when sliding heavy objects around. That could be a problem if you are adjusting saw horses or moving a project or your bench. It will also make it easier to clean since you can make the edges match each other when gluing you won't have gaps & uneven surfaces for dust to stick to.
I thought about that, but if I move I want to peel these up and take them. also in the tests I did of moving things around I have not had any issue at all. the floor does not bubble up because feet do not sink into it. and the seams are crazy tight as is.
comfort is very worthwhile. i spent years standing on hard concrete and it was a pain literally. i bought the eva foam puzzle pieces, which i have in the five areas where i mostly stand. makes a huge difference to your work, as it does prevent fatigue which is where mistakes come in.
I put 3/4 inch horse mats in my 10x12 shed 10 years ago. A bit of a luxury, but I really like it and would do it again. For a larger space, I'm thinking the rolls you used are more cost effective.
I cover all my floor with Osb 2 boards and it functions and also looks very nice with the shavings on the floor... I recommended to whom looking for a cheaper and a bit more natural option 👍
I thought about something like that, but I like to move things around. most of the epoxy tests I have done on it show that the epoxy will chip off once it hardens it does not hold that strongly to it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo ah that's fair enough, in the scheme of things then unless you start juggling with your tools i guess the floor should survive pretty well
I'm actually going to be making a video in the next couple months reviewing the flooring after having it for a couple years. In all honesty I wish I had done this years before. Other than the bench it was the best thing I've ever put in the shop. I originally thought I would probably be wishing I had gotten the half inch thick material. But in all honesty if I had to do it again I would stay with 3/8. It is absolutely amazing and if I ever build another shop it will be the first thing to go in.
It really looks fantastic, James! Really nice! 😃 In my workspace I think about putting something around the workbenches... But I'm not sure what yet. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What about rolling heavy equipment and benches? Does the rubber gather up at all or wrinkle? Or does it stay put? Any thoughts here would be helpful. Many thanks!
Look at that, 290 thumbs up and zero thumbs down. I found your discussion worthwhile but wonder whether the EVA would make effective, cheap and easy to install sound deadening for an enclosure for a 7-1/2 Hp dust collector and same-size compressor. What do you think? Is there something more effective for anywhere near the price?
What were your reasons behind the colour choice? In an enclosed basement, did you not want to brighten, rather than darken the room? Also, more importantly, do you not struggle to find screws, nails etc when you drop them? It looks like quite a camouflage pattern. Also, do they do printed rubber? I was considering getting a giant self portrait on my floor. Just my grinning face. I think it'd look great every time I open my garage door, and not remotely sinister.
Lol I like the way you think. most rubber flooring comes just black and you spend a bit more to get a color mixed into it. White rubber is very expensive. And white rubber won't stay white very long. I actually find it a bit easier to find things on the floor with this than I did on the concrete because the concrete had a lot of different colors and splotches. this is just jet black with a few speckles of blue.
The floor looks great, James. It sounds like you found something that works out well for you and your shop. I look forward to an update in a year or two after you've had some time to live with it. It would be interesting to see what a 'simulated spill' of epoxy would look like on that scrap piece of flooring. I'm curious how well the epoxy would adhere and if it doesn't, if it would come off in one big satisfying piece.
Over the years I've seen "horse mats" or whatever they're called, they're the rubber mats in a horse stall that can get pretty thick. I've seen these at Tractor Supply as well as a few other places. I don't remember pricing but I was thinking about using it on a workshop floor... as soon as I find space for a workshop...
If the basement flooded I would just peal back the middle one and air dry it. but as to moisture build up from normal air? no I have no fear of that. we are air conditioned. but if the basement flooded that would be the least of my fears!
Hi James, I'm considering this for my one car garage shop. Do the caster wheels roll easy? Also do these give out any fumes if I have heat blasting? I live in the cold climate and I'll be blasting heat during winter.
I can roll my 600# lathe around on it. About 2 weeks after I no longer smell rubber at all. I am in a climate controlled room though full ac and heat. My guess is there would be no problem at all as long as you are not melting the rubber.
You can smell it in the shop but outside the shop it doesn't smell it all. My wife said she doesn't even smell it and she has a pretty sensitive snazz.
What rubber mat did you buy? Do you have an online link for these mats? I was going to epoxy my shop floor but after seeing this video I have changed my mind and will be installing a rubber mat for the comfort factor. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for the video! I now feel so much better about the 3/8 inch rubber flooring I purchased for my garage/woodworking shop. I'm waiting for warmer temperatures to install it. I also purchased a heavy duty double sided tape to put under the edges, but after watching this video I may try the installation without first. The tape can always be added later if needed. My only concern about this type of flooring is that the wheels on the mobile bases of my heavy machines may leave dents in the florring over time and with the Arizona heat. What are your thoughts regarding this? Thanks again, love your channel!
I do nto think the tape would help if the heat and weight are enough to cause a problem. with my 600lb lathe sitting on 4 small legs it does not dent in at all. but I am at around 65 degrees all year round there.
I don't think it would make that much of a difference in an open air situation. But in a shop where it can bounce around in an enclosed space it makes a little bit of a difference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo bummer. i just order some. my only hope is that when i do some mortise they will not try to kill me. and is germany we need to obey the rules :)
With the qualities you described for each type of flooring, I'm wondering if a combination of the two might be advantageous. If you put the eva down and lay the rubber on top, would there be significant denting/compression, or do you think the rubber would prevent this? It seems like the eva underneath would add more insulation and padding.
I don't think I would want to try that. Having the soft EVA underneath would cause the rubber to bubble up making seams pop up. The difference in insulation between the two is very minimal and I don't think it would be worth the other struggles. You can get lighter rubbers or a thicker rubber.
Is this a big issue? In all the various places I've lived with basements the concrete floor never had problems like that, though we generally kept ours bare concrete or with throw rugs over top.
If the basement flooded I would just peal back the middle one and air dry it. but as to moisture build up from normal air? no I have no fear of that. we are air conditioned. but if the basement flooded that would be the least of my fears!
@@DanielAKA as long as the air can move mold will most often not grow. If you stop the airflow so moister can rise up but not go anywhere its common to get problems.
In older homes concrete was poured directly on the gravel base. Most homes in the last 30 or 40 years have a heavy plastic vapor barrier to stop moisture from migrating.
Any tape, glue, or sealant at the seams to keep them from curling up into tripping hazzards over time? Maybe double sided tape to help hold them down to the floor along the seams? Definitely looks like a more finished space with that floor down now. I think I like it... yeah, I definitly like it, quite a bit, actually. It looks good.
I'm sure the rubber floor is easier on the feet and back than the concrete floor. But I just thought - the shop I will build will have a plywood floor. Do you think the rubber floor is necessary?
Plywood floors 10 to fall apart rather quickly in comparison. Also, they are very loud and I don't notice much difference between plywood and concrete on my feet. However, the rubber floor is far superior in both of those characteristics. And it's about the same price as plywood. And cheaper in some areas. The longer I have the rubber down on the floor the more I absolutely love it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I don't quite understand. I'm building a shop, so I will need a plywood floor in any case, right? Is it possible to install rubber floor INSTEAD of plywood?
Thanks. I've been considering putting down some kind of anti-fatigue flooring in my garage shop. Could you link to the actual product you used. Rubber Flooring offers a lot of products. and it's not clear which one you picked.
here you go. www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.htmlthey are all basically the same other then thickness and look. most of the terms just refer to the size of the color flecks.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks. I think this may be exactly what I've been looking for. Here's a corrected link for others... www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.html
Not a floor related question: I have never seen those clogs before. I tried to do a search and I'm only seeing more recent videos about adding new soles and why you wear them. Where's the video on making them?
I have a video on carving the outside but I don't have one for making the foothold. Mine actually came from Holland as a rough blank. so I just had to do the final sculpting to make them fit my foot and then decorated the outside. I have a video on that but it was four or five years old and on the main channel.
It looks like there are many options in the rubber flooring (heavy duty, regrind, impact, big chip...) on their web site. Which one did you go with? It looks like a great solution. Thanks for sharing!
Great video James! I have a few questions whenever you have time to reply..... Is the rubber virgin or recycled? It's not apparent on the linked product page. Has not using any glue on the seams or edges been a problem? Would you do anything differently next time? Thanks!
I'm going to be doing an update video on them here soon. Probably the next month or two. Each manufacturer is different. But if they don't list it as recycled then it's probably virgin. I would not glue the seams. After having it down for 2 years there almost invisible and nothing has gotten into them. They really come together very tight. Originally I thought I should have upgraded to the half inch but after having them for a while there is no reason for that. The 3/8 is more than enough. It actually makes me wonder if I could have gone down to quarter inch. But the big takeaway is I wish I put these down years ago. They've saved so many falling tools as well as my feet as now I have no problem with chisels hitting the ground I just get out of the way and let them go. It's all so much easier on my back with no hard floors. Absolutely love them.
Good discussion! (I use an interlocking mat system with holes that allow sawdust to fall below the walking surface to maintain grip - then vacuum up the dust easily afterward. That system doesn't support moving equip over it, but I rarely have the need for that.) Wondering - is there a way to glue the rubber strips together to form a cohesive surface? That would prevent the seams from opening when moving equipment around and prevent seams from accumulating debris. -- Love the jokes at the end! Very punny!
I'm sure you could use a poly based glue and adhere them together very nicely. It would be a lot of work to run along the edge of all the puzzle pieces but it would probably help from that.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo wow that's very good! For my gym and garage the 3/4 made sense but my workshop is in a short New England basement and I've been pretty hesitant to put rubber down because of the reduction in height, maybe the 3/8 would work. Lower price and delivery would be super nice. Plus those look awesome! Thanks for sharing
No concerns about moisture. if there is any moisture won't be coming up through the concrete but from the air around and the house is air conditioned so no problem there.
Hi there. So sorry if this has been asked already but for those of us who share our workspaces with a car, would the rubber flooring that you have be an option for us? Thanks! The shop looks great btw.
I actually was thinking of putting it in the garage. I do not see why it would not work under cars. it would have no issue at all with the weight. I might bump up to 1/2" or thicker so there would be less chance of it bubbling with wheels turning in place. but other then that it should work well.
I am going to look at horse mats for my shop. I have the squares and they can be a trip hazard. And horrors of horrors I dropped my block plane on the concrete; no damage luckily.
If you only need a small area like around your bench then those horse mats are the way to go. Pretty cheap at tractor supply. I have had a couple for about the last 4 months and it has worked great. The only issue is the ends will curl a bit from being rolled up tightly, just weigh them down for a month and they will be fine.
chisels on a concrete floor, feels so wrong but works so well disclaimer before someone has a heart attack: i only do that regularly with a knackered chisel and for work purposes
Does it smell rubbery? I bought one horse stall mat, and the smell was unbearable. I read that leaving it in the sun would reduce the smell. I did that and then it eventually fell apart before the amount of smell was acceptable. Big waste of money.
I would not leave them in the sun as they are UV sensitive. pretty much all rubber floors will smell the same. The smell will deaden over time but usually that takes a year or more. Depending upon how much air flow you get.
That is a very interesting subject to dig into. oddly enough. When you carve a surface to perfectly match your foot you do not need cushion. you can be comfortable in steel as the pressure is evenly spread out. cushion is just needed for commercial shoes that have to fit all feet.
You mentioned there were a few other benefits to go thicker. What were those benefits exactly? All I'm finding is that 1/2" is better for dropping weights over 100 lbs.
if you are doing weights and gym equipment I would not go any thinner then 1/2" if you want to do bar drops I would go thicker then 3/4" but for the normal shop I do nto see a huge benefit for going thicker then 3/8 I would not go down to 1/4" as you would want to use carpet tape with that, but 3/8holds in place really nicely.
I've got quite a few videos on the clogs. Best shop shoes you could ask for. Incredibly comfortable and they do protect your feet from falling things off the bench.
Spent the whole day coming up with those bad puns for the end of the video, right? No wonder there was so much moaning while you were working... Those were some real groaners.
yes. I have a friend with it in his garage. no problem with the wheels just oil and other contaminates. though it would be easer to clean then the concrete.
I carved them from blanks. but I have several videos over the years talking about why I use them and then resoling them. here is the first video where I carved them. th-cam.com/video/vuP9fzEPdLQ/w-d-xo.html
Nope. I wear a wooden shoes in the shop everyday. I have for the last 6 years. They are incredibly comfortable and protective. When you carve them to fit your foot, they'll be the most comfortable shoes you ever had.
Two Years Later: see my thoughts: th-cam.com/video/F7wd0F0XEXY/w-d-xo.html
My dad was actually a linoleum installer known for being the best around since my grandfather had a linoleum store in south Boston. He had a T-shirt that said “Professional layer”.
My wife thought that was a great idea and she suggested I do the walls and ceilings too. She also said she would get me a special new jacket!
You got to love it when the wife steps up and thinks of everything.
I started researching flooring for a shop in my basement last year and saw your video. It appears my shop is about the same size as yours. I ended up going with the same flooring that you did (black with the blue specks). I painted the walls a bright white and after installing the flooring the walls now appear to be a very pale blue. I'm coming up on a year now since I did the installation and I couldn't be happier. I use a shop vac with a Dust Stopper to vacuum up the sawdust which works good. At the end of the day I run a Shark Rotator around and it does a great job picking up the fine dust. Since I have to break down sheets of plywood in my garage so I can manage to get them downstairs I've definitely noticed the huge difference in the comfort of the rubber flooring compared to working on the concrete in my garage. Thanks for your video!
i went with the foam puzzle pieces for my shop. with my spine issues the padding was the most important variable. was a complete game changer for me. no problems cleaning it up whatsoever. i wish i had done this years ago too
I am so glad you posted this on the very day I decided that I needed to upgrade my shop's concrete flooring. Your thorough overview and high praise of the heavy duty rubber flooring have me convinced. I've got about 350 sqft to cover, and this looks like the best solution. Perhaps I'll post photos or a video. Thanks for the information!
Sweet. Looking forward to seeing what you put down.
I just moved into a smaller shop - much smaller with a concrete floor so I need to do this before winter. Thanks for your video and thoughts.
the workshop looks so much more colourful now. awesome.
It makes me very happy.
I think you probably made the right choice with the rolls, I had the same thought about sweeping while you were talking lol. I've got gravel with plastic sheeting and some free carpet over top in my pole barn shop. Holds onto the dust a bit more but like with your rubber floor it isn't as hard on stuff you drop and machine legs don't sink.
I can notice the sound difference I think 👍 I have some puzzle piece mats to put down when I get time to clear out the garage!
For anyone thinking about the foam puzzle pieces. Like James said sweeping is a bit of a pain. Chips and shavings come up east. There tends to be a fine layer of dust that is left so I follow with a vacuum. Also, wood filler seams to instantly bond with the stuff. On the other hand, with rubber shoes, it is great for antifatigue.
I have several of the foam puzzle pieces in front of my bench simply to help with my bad knees (old sports injuries). And they DO help a lot. But I would love to have that rubber flooring all over my shop. Looks awesome in your shop, James!
So true. Anti-feetig mats make a fantastic difference.
Oh wow. Looks like you were using the "good chisel" to clean the epoxy bumps off the concrete floor! Nice new floor. Good video.
It's always wise to have a set of chisels in the shop that are not as light as others.
That has to be soooo much better than my Harbor Freight floor mats lol
If the cracks are annoying a product my grandfather invented and patented might help although I doubt you could find it. Namkub enterprises. It was a roll of extruded plastic with a T shape that fit in seams of linoleum to keep things from falling in the cracks when it was only 3 or 6 feet wide.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
4:08 dude is rockin’ wood shoes. Didn’t expect that.
Thanks for sharing. I greatly appreciate the information on the horse mats. That might be a good solution for my small shop.
My woodshop is only about 80ft², with a wood floor over dirt. I definitely like the idea of the rubber as insulation. It'll keep cold air from seeping in from underneath. I may go with the horse mats since I can probably get them dirt cheap as 2nds.
ya horse mats would be prefect there!
If you're getting second hand check for smell. Horses like to pee on it
@@tryingagain14 Nope. They're brand new 2nds from the factory.
@@rhpsoregon ok good. Was a bit concerned.
Miles
I have the exact same material in my small 12x10 shop, and it has saved many a chisel and plane. Cost of tool replacement far exceeds cost of the material. You can also glue down rubber floor as a permanent solution if shifting is a concern.
Does it smell? How do tools roll on it?
@@DaileyWoodworks the floor is very shock absorbing, but does not allow dropped items to bounce. Same stuff they use in commercial gyms for weight room flooring. Easy to clean too. No real odour to it though.
great rubber floor but Sara''s bench will look great on it!
Great video. I may have found a solution to my barn floor/workshop!
Thanks for the good information.
Very Nice!!! 👍😎 Thank You James!!
Happy new rubber floor James! It looks like it'll be a great upgrade 👍
It would be a good idea to glue the edges together using contact adhesive, that way you don't have to worry about catching an edge when sliding heavy objects around. That could be a problem if you are adjusting saw horses or moving a project or your bench. It will also make it easier to clean since you can make the edges match each other when gluing you won't have gaps & uneven surfaces for dust to stick to.
I thought about that, but if I move I want to peel these up and take them. also in the tests I did of moving things around I have not had any issue at all. the floor does not bubble up because feet do not sink into it. and the seams are crazy tight as is.
I'm thinking of using carpet tape to join the seams.
comfort is very worthwhile. i spent years standing on hard concrete and it was a pain literally. i bought the eva foam puzzle pieces, which i have in the five areas where i mostly stand. makes a huge difference to your work, as it does prevent fatigue which is where mistakes come in.
thank you James well that topic floored me
I put 3/4 inch horse mats in my 10x12 shed 10 years ago. A bit of a luxury, but I really like it and would do it again. For a larger space, I'm thinking the rolls you used are more cost effective.
I cover all my floor with Osb 2 boards and it functions and also looks very nice with the shavings on the floor... I recommended to whom looking for a cheaper and a bit more natural option 👍
I had that in my last shop. worked perfectly for several years!
Right call on the rolls. I had rubber puzzle pieces, it would tend to bunch up when you roll heavy machinery over it. Rolls wouldn’t do that!
did you think to put a strip down the other way by the bench and shelving so you could replace it easily if it gets damaged/too messy with epoxy ect.?
I thought about something like that, but I like to move things around. most of the epoxy tests I have done on it show that the epoxy will chip off once it hardens it does not hold that strongly to it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo ah that's fair enough, in the scheme of things then unless you start juggling with your tools i guess the floor should survive pretty well
Hey great video, I'm wondering in hindsight if you had wish you want a different route. I'm thinking of doing this for my shop.
I'm actually going to be making a video in the next couple months reviewing the flooring after having it for a couple years. In all honesty I wish I had done this years before. Other than the bench it was the best thing I've ever put in the shop. I originally thought I would probably be wishing I had gotten the half inch thick material. But in all honesty if I had to do it again I would stay with 3/8. It is absolutely amazing and if I ever build another shop it will be the first thing to go in.
It really looks fantastic, James! Really nice! 😃
In my workspace I think about putting something around the workbenches... But I'm not sure what yet. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What about rolling heavy equipment and benches? Does the rubber gather up at all or wrinkle? Or does it stay put? Any thoughts here would be helpful.
Many thanks!
no problem with it at all. it stays like it was glued there. the longer I have it the more I love it!
Look at that, 290 thumbs up and zero thumbs down. I found your discussion worthwhile but wonder whether the EVA would make effective, cheap and easy to install sound deadening for an enclosure for a 7-1/2 Hp dust collector and same-size compressor. What do you think? Is there something more effective for anywhere near the price?
I think EVA would work great for that. especially if you did a layer or two.
Can you put a coat of paste wax on the rubber? How does it react to boiled linseed oil?
I have not though about paste wax. that may defeat the grip though. the oil is fine as long as it is a polymerizing oil.
What were your reasons behind the colour choice? In an enclosed basement, did you not want to brighten, rather than darken the room? Also, more importantly, do you not struggle to find screws, nails etc when you drop them? It looks like quite a camouflage pattern. Also, do they do printed rubber? I was considering getting a giant self portrait on my floor. Just my grinning face. I think it'd look great every time I open my garage door, and not remotely sinister.
Lol I like the way you think. most rubber flooring comes just black and you spend a bit more to get a color mixed into it. White rubber is very expensive. And white rubber won't stay white very long. I actually find it a bit easier to find things on the floor with this than I did on the concrete because the concrete had a lot of different colors and splotches. this is just jet black with a few speckles of blue.
First video of yours that I've ever watched... gotta admit... I'm a little weirded out by the wooden shoes, but I subscribed and gave you a chance. :)
Thanks. I've got a few videos on the clogs. Best shop shoes you could ask for. Incredibly comfortable and protective.
The floor looks great, James. It sounds like you found something that works out well for you and your shop. I look forward to an update in a year or two after you've had some time to live with it. It would be interesting to see what a 'simulated spill' of epoxy would look like on that scrap piece of flooring. I'm curious how well the epoxy would adhere and if it doesn't, if it would come off in one big satisfying piece.
I wish I had shown the epoxy tests I did on it. as long as you let it cure it chips off fairly easily. not 100% but far better then concrete.
Was there any off gassing?
no. you could smell the new rubber for a day or two but nothing after I got every thing back in.
Does the rubber smell? I really wasn't wanting my new shop to smell like a tire shop. :-)
Thanks much for your help!
for the first week it off gasses but after that there is nothing to smell.
Our makeshift workshop is our garage a car is normally parked here during the week. Would this rubber flooring be suitable to put a car on?
You would want to go up to at least 1/2" but I do know people who put it in the garage.
Is it worth taping the seams? I'm thinking a liquid spill or dust working it's way under.
I think if you go 3/8 or more there is no benefit to taping the seams on large rolls. but if you go thinner then it is deffinently wise.
Thanks. I appreciate the info.
Over the years I've seen "horse mats" or whatever they're called, they're the rubber mats in a horse stall that can get pretty thick. I've seen these at Tractor Supply as well as a few other places. I don't remember pricing but I was thinking about using it on a workshop floor... as soon as I find space for a workshop...
I posted the horse mats comment before I seen rest of the vid, apparently he did know about them... great minds lol
Any concerns about moisture getting trapped under there?
If the basement flooded I would just peal back the middle one and air dry it. but as to moisture build up from normal air? no I have no fear of that. we are air conditioned. but if the basement flooded that would be the least of my fears!
Hi James, I'm considering this for my one car garage shop. Do the caster wheels roll easy? Also do these give out any fumes if I have heat blasting? I live in the cold climate and I'll be blasting heat during winter.
I can roll my 600# lathe around on it. About 2 weeks after I no longer smell rubber at all. I am in a climate controlled room though full ac and heat. My guess is there would be no problem at all as long as you are not melting the rubber.
How much smell from the rubber goes thru the house if this was used in a basement shop?
You can smell it in the shop but outside the shop it doesn't smell it all. My wife said she doesn't even smell it and she has a pretty sensitive snazz.
What rubber mat did you buy? Do you have an online link for these mats? I was going to epoxy my shop floor but after seeing this video I have changed my mind and will be installing a rubber mat for the comfort factor. Great video, thanks.
Here you go. www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.html
Thanks for the video! I now feel so much better about the 3/8 inch rubber flooring I purchased for my garage/woodworking shop. I'm waiting for warmer temperatures to install it. I also purchased a heavy duty double sided tape to put under the edges, but after watching this video I may try the installation without first. The tape can always be added later if needed. My only concern about this type of flooring is that the wheels on the mobile bases of my heavy machines may leave dents in the florring over time and with the Arizona heat. What are your thoughts regarding this? Thanks again, love your channel!
I do nto think the tape would help if the heat and weight are enough to cause a problem. with my 600lb lathe sitting on 4 small legs it does not dent in at all. but I am at around 65 degrees all year round there.
a stupid question I know, but its valid to me... if you bounced a tennis ball on the eva or rubber, which bounces higher?
Rubber. The EVA phone would absorb a lot of the impact.
What about odor? Does the rubber floor smell like tires?
I could smell it when I first rolled it out, but a week later no one can smell anything from it.
how good are those to absorb the noise of a mallet? I current setup is a small workbench on balcony, and each mortise chop means annoyed people.
I don't think it would make that much of a difference in an open air situation. But in a shop where it can bounce around in an enclosed space it makes a little bit of a difference.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo bummer. i just order some. my only hope is that when i do some mortise they will not try to kill me. and is germany we need to obey the rules :)
I've found that if you wear ear plugs, most of the neighbours' complaints become inaudible.
With the qualities you described for each type of flooring, I'm wondering if a combination of the two might be advantageous. If you put the eva down and lay the rubber on top, would there be significant denting/compression, or do you think the rubber would prevent this? It seems like the eva underneath would add more insulation and padding.
I don't think I would want to try that. Having the soft EVA underneath would cause the rubber to bubble up making seams pop up. The difference in insulation between the two is very minimal and I don't think it would be worth the other struggles. You can get lighter rubbers or a thicker rubber.
Do you know how heat resistant the rubber is? I have a mostly metal working shop
I have no idea. Might have to do some tests.
Humm. Basement, concrete floor. How to you prevent mold from growing under the rubber?
Looks great though!
Is this a big issue? In all the various places I've lived with basements the concrete floor never had problems like that, though we generally kept ours bare concrete or with throw rugs over top.
If the basement flooded I would just peal back the middle one and air dry it. but as to moisture build up from normal air? no I have no fear of that. we are air conditioned. but if the basement flooded that would be the least of my fears!
@@DanielAKA as long as the air can move mold will most often not grow. If you stop the airflow so moister can rise up but not go anywhere its common to get problems.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I was thinking about the moisture from the ground. But as you said. If problems would arise you can just peel it back 🙂
In older homes concrete was poured directly on the gravel base. Most homes in the last 30 or 40 years have a heavy plastic vapor barrier to stop moisture from migrating.
Any tape, glue, or sealant at the seams to keep them from curling up into tripping hazzards over time? Maybe double sided tape to help hold them down to the floor along the seams? Definitely looks like a more finished space with that floor down now. I think I like it... yeah, I definitly like it, quite a bit, actually. It looks good.
No. The rubber is actually designed to go down without anything holding in place it lays perfectly flat. No tape or sealant needed.
I'm sure the rubber floor is easier on the feet and back than the concrete floor. But I just thought - the shop I will build will have a plywood floor. Do you think the rubber floor is necessary?
Plywood floors 10 to fall apart rather quickly in comparison. Also, they are very loud and I don't notice much difference between plywood and concrete on my feet. However, the rubber floor is far superior in both of those characteristics. And it's about the same price as plywood. And cheaper in some areas. The longer I have the rubber down on the floor the more I absolutely love it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I don't quite understand. I'm building a shop, so I will need a plywood floor in any case, right? Is it possible to install rubber floor INSTEAD of plywood?
Does the rubber smell like tires? I wonder how much it smells, as my wife is allergic to butyl rubber
I was expecting it to smell a lot more then it does. My wife, who is very sensitive, can not smell it outside the shop.
Thanks. I've been considering putting down some kind of anti-fatigue flooring in my garage shop. Could you link to the actual product you used. Rubber Flooring offers a lot of products. and it's not clear which one you picked.
here you go. www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.htmlthey are all basically the same other then thickness and look. most of the terms just refer to the size of the color flecks.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks. I think this may be exactly what I've been looking for.
Here's a corrected link for others...
www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.html
I checked out the flooring website, but OMG what a lot of choices. What exactly did you buy?
Yes there are quite a few companies listed there with different choices of the same things. There is a link to the exact one in the discription.
Not a floor related question: I have never seen those clogs before. I tried to do a search and I'm only seeing more recent videos about adding new soles and why you wear them. Where's the video on making them?
Nevermind it's in the description of the Why video xD
I have a video on carving the outside but I don't have one for making the foothold. Mine actually came from Holland as a rough blank. so I just had to do the final sculpting to make them fit my foot and then decorated the outside. I have a video on that but it was four or five years old and on the main channel.
It looks like there are many options in the rubber flooring (heavy duty, regrind, impact, big chip...) on their web site. Which one did you go with? It looks like a great solution. Thanks for sharing!
I just got the standard. nothing special needed for me. www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/index.html
With that much rubber in your shop, aren't you worried that things are just going to start disappearing? 😆👍
Great video James! I have a few questions whenever you have time to reply.....
Is the rubber virgin or recycled? It's not apparent on the linked product page.
Has not using any glue on the seams or edges been a problem?
Would you do anything differently next time?
Thanks!
I'm going to be doing an update video on them here soon. Probably the next month or two. Each manufacturer is different. But if they don't list it as recycled then it's probably virgin. I would not glue the seams. After having it down for 2 years there almost invisible and nothing has gotten into them. They really come together very tight. Originally I thought I should have upgraded to the half inch but after having them for a while there is no reason for that. The 3/8 is more than enough. It actually makes me wonder if I could have gone down to quarter inch. But the big takeaway is I wish I put these down years ago. They've saved so many falling tools as well as my feet as now I have no problem with chisels hitting the ground I just get out of the way and let them go. It's all so much easier on my back with no hard floors. Absolutely love them.
Much appreciated! Got a quote and discovered the shipping is almost as much as the product itself. :( I'm now looking for something local.
ty for this vid
Good discussion! (I use an interlocking mat system with holes that allow sawdust to fall below the walking surface to maintain grip - then vacuum up the dust easily afterward. That system doesn't support moving equip over it, but I rarely have the need for that.) Wondering - is there a way to glue the rubber strips together to form a cohesive surface? That would prevent the seams from opening when moving equipment around and prevent seams from accumulating debris. -- Love the jokes at the end! Very punny!
I'm sure you could use a poly based glue and adhere them together very nicely. It would be a lot of work to run along the edge of all the puzzle pieces but it would probably help from that.
4x6 3/4 stall matts are roughly 2$ per sq ft. at tsc, seems tough to beat?
Yep. Especially for 3/4 thick. Mine came out about $1.75 a square foot. But it's only 3/8 thick.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo wow that's very good! For my gym and garage the 3/4 made sense but my workshop is in a short New England basement and I've been pretty hesitant to put rubber down because of the reduction in height, maybe the 3/8 would work. Lower price and delivery would be super nice. Plus those look awesome! Thanks for sharing
Is your slab sealed? Are there any concerns about condensation / moisture under the mat?
No concerns about moisture. if there is any moisture won't be coming up through the concrete but from the air around and the house is air conditioned so no problem there.
The edges of the foam will lift up at the edges and become a trip point. Especially if a joint is close to a heavy item.
right on. another reason I went with the rubber. even the 600lb lathe does not sink in.
Hi there. So sorry if this has been asked already but for those of us who share our workspaces with a car, would the rubber flooring that you have be an option for us? Thanks! The shop looks great btw.
I actually was thinking of putting it in the garage. I do not see why it would not work under cars. it would have no issue at all with the weight. I might bump up to 1/2" or thicker so there would be less chance of it bubbling with wheels turning in place. but other then that it should work well.
I am going to look at horse mats for my shop. I have the squares and they can be a trip hazard. And horrors of horrors I dropped my block plane on the concrete; no damage luckily.
If you only need a small area like around your bench then those horse mats are the way to go. Pretty cheap at tractor supply. I have had a couple for about the last 4 months and it has worked great. The only issue is the ends will curl a bit from being rolled up tightly, just weigh them down for a month and they will be fine.
chisels on a concrete floor, feels so wrong but works so well
disclaimer before someone has a heart attack: i only do that regularly with a knackered chisel and for work purposes
LOL yes. you got to have a set of chisels that are not so loved!
Dude just casually said he has wooden shoes 💀 😂
Best shop shoes you could ask for. Incredibly comfortable and protective. I have a few videos on them if you want to see more.
is it weird that I just bought a stack of the EVA squares for my shop last week?
I liked it...
Got to get me one those concrete chisels!
it is good to have a chisel set on hand that is not so loved.
So it’s safe to say your floored about your floor?
Bingo!
Can you park a car on it? (garage/shop)
Sure. No problem at all. I actually have a friend with it in his garage.
Does it smell rubbery? I bought one horse stall mat, and the smell was unbearable. I read that leaving it in the sun would reduce the smell. I did that and then it eventually fell apart before the amount of smell was acceptable. Big waste of money.
I would not leave them in the sun as they are UV sensitive. pretty much all rubber floors will smell the same. The smell will deaden over time but usually that takes a year or more. Depending upon how much air flow you get.
I'm just very happy the chisel didn't bounce your way..
There's a reason I dropped it the distance away from me I did lol
You know James, most shoes have cushion and rubber soles. Your custom wooden clogs, not so much. Great video though! Very educational.
That is a very interesting subject to dig into. oddly enough. When you carve a surface to perfectly match your foot you do not need cushion. you can be comfortable in steel as the pressure is evenly spread out. cushion is just needed for commercial shoes that have to fit all feet.
Forgiving flooring can lower fatigue an joint pain when standing or walking for long periods of time compared to hard surface floors
That's why I love my wood shoes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo figured thats why you are always rockin dem bad boys
You mentioned there were a few other benefits to go thicker. What were those benefits exactly? All I'm finding is that 1/2" is better for dropping weights over 100 lbs.
if you are doing weights and gym equipment I would not go any thinner then 1/2" if you want to do bar drops I would go thicker then 3/4" but for the normal shop I do nto see a huge benefit for going thicker then 3/8 I would not go down to 1/4" as you would want to use carpet tape with that, but 3/8holds in place really nicely.
Not a lot of talk about the wooden shoes . What are the safety ratings on those ? Lol.
I've got quite a few videos on the clogs. Best shop shoes you could ask for. Incredibly comfortable and they do protect your feet from falling things off the bench.
Nice. No half measures.
Spent the whole day coming up with those bad puns for the end of the video, right? No wonder there was so much moaning while you were working... Those were some real groaners.
I can't afford to do that to my floor, but I can afford to put it on the bottom of everything in the shop including me
Have you thought of just putting a layer of rubber on the soles of your shoes 🙂
LOL but that doesn't fix all the other problems. And yes I used to have rubber and then I tried leather and I tried a few other things.
Can this be used in a garage? Can you park a car on it?
yes. I have a friend with it in his garage. no problem with the wheels just oil and other contaminates. though it would be easer to clean then the concrete.
I thought 'when did I subscribe to johnny sins' when I first saw the thumbnail..lmao
I think the important take away from this video is WOODEN SHOES???? Is there a video where you make them?
I carved them from blanks. but I have several videos over the years talking about why I use them and then resoling them. here is the first video where I carved them. th-cam.com/video/vuP9fzEPdLQ/w-d-xo.html
Great floor. Isn't rubber vulnerable to oil ? Better not spill your linseed oil.
to some yes. but oils that polymerize, no.
66th.
Is he joking about having wooden shoes?
Nope. I wear a wooden shoes in the shop everyday. I have for the last 6 years. They are incredibly comfortable and protective. When you carve them to fit your foot, they'll be the most comfortable shoes you ever had.
Was going to pull the trigger then I saw the freaking shipping charges -- $400 for the cheapest. That's more than the 3 rolls of flooring!
Yup. It is a full pallet. Mine was over 1000lb.
First? Ha!
Woot woot. Nice work on first.
Where the rubber meets the uhh... floor.
Now I know why I stopped watching this channel.
Why is that. I always welcome feedback.