I bought my '06 XL1200C in '08. It had 2200mi on it. I hadn't owned a Harley since '82 and had been riding Suz. for about 25yrs. Nosedive was a real problem until someone pointed out that Harleys are designed to use equal braking between front and rear. This cured my nosedive problem as japanese bikes seem to brake better at 70% front and 30% rear. It took some getting used to. I was having a nosedive problem around 35k miles and serviced the front forks but nosediving was still a problem. I replaced the rear shocks w 1.5 in longer ones and got your shock lowering kit to put the bike closer to stock ride height and still have "more" rr susp. travel. Nosediving is gone and a lot better ride, too. Thanks you guys, keep the vids coming.
Thank you for commenting and we appreciate your business. Great to hear the parts are working well for you. 👍 I've never heard that HD's are designed for equal braking between front and rear.
@@DKCustomProducts With HD's lower center of gravity, if you use the front brake only, you have 600lbs pushing on anemic front brake and a 2.5" wide front tire. Idk if this was an actual HD recommendation or something passed on, over the years, from other HD riders. I've been riding since 1970, so memories tend to blend.
@@toejam503 On my 2 wheel Harley's I still use the front brakes for 90% of all stopping/slowing down....whether on a Sporty, Dyna, Softail or Bagger. In my experience there is much more stopping power out of the front than the rear. Using both in heavy braking situations provides the most stopping power, but it is still far more front than rear. Seen many times where someone uses only their rear brakes and the back tire breaks traction, resulting, most of the time, in a pretty bad scenario.
@@DKCustomProducts I understand locking up the rear, it's like you have to apply just enough pressure to get that perfect stop. I do use the front more than the back but really have to pay attention when I have a passenger or my Sportster is loaded for a campout. I've always weighed under 140lbs so this may have something to do with it, too. I've ridden a few bikes that were rear brake only but that goes back to '70s and '80s. I never got used to No front brake. Thanks for all your input, it's appreciated.
@@toejam503 Yes, modulating the front and rear brake for maximum braking, but no locking up...that takes practice. Thanks for your comment, and glad you're liking the videos.
There are a lot of additions to your bike that honestly are such a pain in the pocketbook. But I will say when I shelled out nearly $4000 on Legend suspension all the way around it was truly very good money spent and I have no regrets. The ride quality is on another level entirely. Best video guys !
Glad you commented and enjoyed the video! 👍 It is amazing the difference between stock suspension and suspension that is working properly. Enjoy your ride!
Agree with you, front suspension improvements make a huge difference. Also agree that being in the "right" gear coming into a corner is important. I would be careful with the rear brake, although using trail-braking in the corner/curve will increase the lean angle, which can be very useful in spirited riding.
Agree with what y’all are saying. I have Progressive 944’s in the rear now and have to upgrade my fronts. Brake dive is intense because of my size also. Just trying to decide what will be best. Springs, monotubes or intimidators. Appreciate you guys and your hard work. My shopping list is extensive. lol
You may find this comparison report useful as you contemplate how to improve your front suspension. www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm Thanks for the kind words! Always feel free to email or call with any questions. Support@DKCustomProducts.com 662-252-8828
I also have 944’s and brake dive is unreal with my wieght. About to place my order for intimidators and progressive front springs. Have my fingers crossed.
@@kevinblane5281 I realized I worded it wrong. With stock suspension on a Harley, made in the last 20 years, one can set the sag properly pretty easily. However, it will be difficult to achieve a significant reduction in brake dive AND have a comfortable ride.
@@kevinblane5281 Yes, and when setting the sag enough that there is not brake dive...or by using heavier oil to reduce brake dive, the ride becomes stiffer than most folks like. That is why the 1940's tech of a spring and damper rod is not going to get the job done of reducing brake dive, keeping a good contact patch And having a comfortable ride. Not sure what you mean by alternating dampers.
Funny, I did the cheaper progressive rear shocks/springs a couple years ago but left the front air alone on my 97 RK, rode a lot better than the seized up air shocks but I had no idea what I was missing until last month when I deleted the front air, and installed progressive fork springs along with replacing the swingarm mounts while doing the drive belt and this thing rides like a new bike, super tight. As a side note, I had to bring down the preload 2 notches on the rears. Rides absolutely incredible now, that’s just with the cheap rears too so I can only imagine what a truly premium suspension would yield.
Yeah, I have not heard of anyone that was really pleased with HD's short lived experiment with front air suspension. Glad you have it riding better for you!
I still meet riders all the time that are unaware that there is hydraulic fluid (fork oil) in the forks of a motorcycle that must be renewed as a part of regular maintenance on their bike.
Good show, the suspension lives a harsh life, it includes steering, braking and balance. Very good info here 4 sure Stock HD brakes and suspension are barely adequate IMO
Why can't HD get this right? The suspension setup on my Freewheeler is absolute garbage. HD tells me to set the rear shocks at 30 when two up, which is max. The ride is absolutely horrible. I have to run it at 10 for a more comfortable ride. If I rode on longer trips, I would dump the money into a better setup.
It is all a matter of saving money during manufacturing, while still being "adequate" for the majority of HD riders who only average 3000 miles a year. Here is a video you may find interesting regarding the book and rear shock settings- th-cam.com/video/5-NVrRF9554/w-d-xo.html
@@DKCustomProducts I have owned metric cruisers that are similar in weight and power to HD... and their suspension setups were far superior in stock form to HD suspensions. I never considered changing the suspension on any of my metric cruisers. As soon as I started riding HDs, the word suspension was always as an issue. For instance... on my 2020 Freewheeler, the rear shocks are almost worthless on bumpy roads. It is similar to a pogo stick experience. And HD tells me that two-up should be at a 30 setting. At that setting, you would knock the fillings out of your teeth. We run it at 10 right now and have experimented with the setting at 3-5. HD could do much better in this department.
@@DKCustomProducts HD does a lot of things right... for instance, their fit and finish is some of the best in the industry. rattles and unwanted sounds are almost non-existent. besides their suspension woes, my next concern is engine longevity. I have put 50-100 thousand miles on metric air-cooled v-twins with absolutely zero issues. from all that I keep reading about HD powerplants, this same result is not likely.
Great explanation. Never liked my air suspension on my SGS. I used Terry Cable rear shocks and they are great. Set up for my weight. On the front end all I did was change out the compression dampener for Terry Cable's. Wow. Was as great an upgrade as the rear. Now with this set up the steering is so tight. No diving under breaking. Cornering is amazing. And highway cruising is terrific. Love the set up.
You're not wrong about getting the sag, rebound and compression set correctly. This will help the bikes handling for sure but I didn't think you are correct in saying that when the front wheel hits a bump the rear wheel unloads and extends ie looses it's sag. I'm sure hitting a bump with the front wheel will also transfer weight to the rear wheel in return compress the rear suspension slightly. This is why compression and rebound needs to control the movement of the wheels as you are correct the bike will pogo all over the place. I don't think you have much control over the standard suspension which on my Slim seems to work well enough.
Thank you for watching the video, AND for your comment. You are correct, there are bumps that the front wheel will hit that will not unload the rear suspension. But there are bumps that will unload the rear suspension. We should have been more clear that not all bumps will unload the rear...just some bumps. And, of course, there is using the front brakes (bump or no bump) that results in brake dive which unloads the rear suspension. With the standard suspension on a Slim you have pre-load adjustment on the rear shocks, and you have two things you can do with the front that will adjust, but not cost anything: 1. Change the preload with a longer or shorter spacer 2. Change the fork oil to a heavier or lighter weight for more or less damping You can see a chart that shows what we have experienced with the above 2 adjustments to front forks, and how much they improved the ride quality. www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm
@@DKCustomProducts thanks. That's a great reply. Yes s dip in the road will unload the rear as will braking. You guys make great videos, I watch all of them, it's just that I felt this was slightly misleading. Thanks for making the videos. Have a great weekend.
Yea have a 2021 iron 883, I did not want this mc but a friend bought it then lost his job so he was 3 payments behind so no good deed goes unpunished, so he is much lighter than me but put front controls on, then I put a tallboy seat on it, I'm 6.2 250lbs no rear suspension so bought 13inc progressive rear shocks and a +1 kickstand, everyone told me this is the right fix bc my weight will compensate for rear shocks witch have no play at all and all bumps go up my spine, so what about the front end, they want to rip apart a front end of a brand new Mc, so 1inc up seat and 2inc + rear shocks but I do not want to rip apart the front end, there trying to sell me +2 fork tubes why? Why not buy 2inc fork springs or put a +1 handlebar riser? Between me and my friend we put over 2 grand into Mc just to be able to ride it, absolutely no performance parts just stuff I should not have to put on a brand new bike just to be able to ride it, I will install the rear shocks and see how it rides but any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Below are links to a video and to front and rear suspension comparison reports. After you look at the reports, I think you will understand why I say the following- If the new rear shocks you purchased have not been installed yet, I would return them for a refund. While they are an improvement over stock, there are better options for the $. www.dkcustomproducts.com/overview-of-performance-rear-shocks-83.htm www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm th-cam.com/video/N1cUpgNJ7i8/w-d-xo.html I would not fret too much about adding the Intiminators to the front forks. It is a pretty easy process...and is not very expensive. I would do one mod at a time until you get to the point where you are pleased with the ride quality.
Another helpful video. I love the 14" pro-action shocks I purchased from you. Really helps settle the 2018 Tri-glide rear end. I have the 19" Extruder Mag wheel on the front with the narrower tire. Would you suggest a upgrade to the front suspension?
Thank you. Glad you found the video useful. 👍 We appreciate your business and great to hear you are enjoying the benefits of the 14" Trike Series Shocks™ I believe you would be well pleased with an upgrade to the front suspension via the Intiminators or the FST's. See links below- www.dkcustomproducts.com/fst-asymmetric-fork-cartridge-system-harley-14-touring-trike-dk-prg-mt-ctg-4.htm www.dkcustomproducts.com/improved-front-suspension-w-intiminator-fork-valves-for-harley-dk-ric-int-39.htm
I put Wilbers suspension on my 2020 RGS and it's a game changer. Well worth the money
Good to hear you are enjoying your improved ride quality!
Thanks for the logical explanation.
You bet! 👍
I bought my '06 XL1200C in '08. It had 2200mi on it. I hadn't owned a Harley since '82 and had been riding Suz. for about 25yrs. Nosedive was a real problem until someone pointed out that Harleys are designed to use equal braking between front and rear. This cured my nosedive problem as japanese bikes seem to brake better at 70% front and 30% rear. It took some getting used to. I was having a nosedive problem around 35k miles and serviced the front forks but nosediving was still a problem. I replaced the rear shocks w 1.5 in longer ones and got your shock lowering kit to put the bike closer to stock ride height and still have "more" rr susp. travel. Nosediving is gone and a lot better ride, too. Thanks you guys, keep the vids coming.
Thank you for commenting and we appreciate your business. Great to hear the parts are working well for you. 👍
I've never heard that HD's are designed for equal braking between front and rear.
@@DKCustomProducts With HD's lower center of gravity, if you use the front brake only, you have 600lbs pushing on anemic front brake and a 2.5" wide front tire. Idk if this was an actual HD recommendation or something passed on, over the years, from other HD riders. I've been riding since 1970, so memories tend to blend.
@@toejam503 On my 2 wheel Harley's I still use the front brakes for 90% of all stopping/slowing down....whether on a Sporty, Dyna, Softail or Bagger.
In my experience there is much more stopping power out of the front than the rear.
Using both in heavy braking situations provides the most stopping power, but it is still far more front than rear.
Seen many times where someone uses only their rear brakes and the back tire breaks traction, resulting, most of the time, in a pretty bad scenario.
@@DKCustomProducts I understand locking up the rear, it's like you have to apply just enough pressure to get that perfect stop. I do use the front more than the back but really have to pay attention when I have a passenger or my Sportster is loaded for a campout. I've always weighed under 140lbs so this may have something to do with it, too. I've ridden a few bikes that were rear brake only but that goes back to '70s and '80s. I never got used to No front brake. Thanks for all your input, it's appreciated.
@@toejam503 Yes, modulating the front and rear brake for maximum braking, but no locking up...that takes practice.
Thanks for your comment, and glad you're liking the videos.
I thought this makes no sense and within 2 min It made complete sense. Love the videos. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the comment! 👍
My ride quality is on another level too! I ride an indian Roadmaster!
👍👍
👍👍
I just don't hit bumps... love the videos
😂🏍😂 Good one! 😀
Glad you're digging the vids. 👍
Thanks for this video, great explanation. Now realizing I probably over did it with the front suspension. I will have to investigate that.
Glad it was helpful!
👍
Glad you liked. 👍
There are a lot of additions to your bike that honestly are such a pain in the pocketbook. But I will say when I shelled out nearly $4000 on Legend suspension all the way around it was truly very good money spent and I have no regrets. The ride quality is on another level entirely. Best video guys !
Glad you commented and enjoyed the video! 👍
It is amazing the difference between stock suspension and suspension that is working properly. Enjoy your ride!
I've owned several different brands of bikes and I have yet to find one that won't benefit from a suspension upgrade.
@@donaldoehl7690 Yes, good point...it is not just Harley's.
front suspension upgrades are a must. If you have to brake for a corner, try down shifting and use more rear brake which will squat the rear.
Agree with you, front suspension improvements make a huge difference.
Also agree that being in the "right" gear coming into a corner is important.
I would be careful with the rear brake, although using trail-braking in the corner/curve will increase the lean angle, which can be very useful in spirited riding.
Agree with what y’all are saying. I have Progressive 944’s in the rear now and have to upgrade my fronts. Brake dive is intense because of my size also. Just trying to decide what will be best. Springs, monotubes or intimidators. Appreciate you guys and your hard work. My shopping list is extensive. lol
You may find this comparison report useful as you contemplate how to improve your front suspension.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm
Thanks for the kind words! Always feel free to email or call with any questions.
Support@DKCustomProducts.com
662-252-8828
I love my legends front and rear suspension.
@@DKCustomProducts I will watch the video. Thank you for the support.
I also have 944’s and brake dive is unreal with my wieght. About to place my order for intimidators and progressive front springs. Have my fingers crossed.
It's very simple if you address the rider sag front end Rider sag rear end problem solved
You are correct, setting the sag is an important key in getting a good ride. With stock suspension that can be challenging on some bikes.
@@DKCustomProducts not really I have been doing it over 45 years
@@kevinblane5281 I realized I worded it wrong. With stock suspension on a Harley, made in the last 20 years, one can set the sag properly pretty easily. However, it will be difficult to achieve a significant reduction in brake dive AND have a comfortable ride.
@@DKCustomProducts Rider sag determines the spring stiffness and travel plus alternating dampers can also affect fork oil amount and viscosity
@@kevinblane5281 Yes, and when setting the sag enough that there is not brake dive...or by using heavier oil to reduce brake dive, the ride becomes stiffer than most folks like.
That is why the 1940's tech of a spring and damper rod is not going to get the job done of reducing brake dive, keeping a good contact patch And having a comfortable ride.
Not sure what you mean by alternating dampers.
Funny, I did the cheaper progressive rear shocks/springs a couple years ago but left the front air alone on my 97 RK, rode a lot better than the seized up air shocks but I had no idea what I was missing until last month when I deleted the front air, and installed progressive fork springs along with replacing the swingarm mounts while doing the drive belt and this thing rides like a new bike, super tight. As a side note, I had to bring down the preload 2 notches on the rears. Rides absolutely incredible now, that’s just with the cheap rears too so I can only imagine what a truly premium suspension would yield.
Yeah, I have not heard of anyone that was really pleased with HD's short lived experiment with front air suspension.
Glad you have it riding better for you!
I still meet riders all the time that are unaware that there is hydraulic fluid (fork oil) in the forks of a motorcycle that must be renewed as a part of regular maintenance on their bike.
Yes, fork fluid is a maintenance item, just engine, primary and trans oil.
Thanks for your comment. 👍
Man if you a Reb why you got a Bama or Ark colored Bike? Please advise.
I know Dwayne told me once why he got that color...but not remembering off-hand. Maybe he will chime in.
Just messing w/him. I remember him saying he wanted a dif color, but this is what they had. It looks good. Hotty Toddy Dwayne. Thanks Kevin.
You guys are the best! 👍👍
Thanks man! 👍
Good show, the suspension lives a harsh life, it includes steering, braking and balance. Very good info here 4 sure Stock HD brakes and suspension are barely adequate IMO
Hey Jack. Thanks for the comment, appreciate it.
Well done as usual gentlemen !!
Thanks! 👍
Why can't HD get this right? The suspension setup on my Freewheeler is absolute garbage. HD tells me to set the rear shocks at 30 when two up, which is max. The ride is absolutely horrible. I have to run it at 10 for a more comfortable ride. If I rode on longer trips, I would dump the money into a better setup.
It is all a matter of saving money during manufacturing, while still being "adequate" for the majority of HD riders who only average 3000 miles a year.
Here is a video you may find interesting regarding the book and rear shock settings-
th-cam.com/video/5-NVrRF9554/w-d-xo.html
@@DKCustomProducts I have owned metric cruisers that are similar in weight and power to HD... and their suspension setups were far superior in stock form to HD suspensions. I never considered changing the suspension on any of my metric cruisers. As soon as I started riding HDs, the word suspension was always as an issue. For instance... on my 2020 Freewheeler, the rear shocks are almost worthless on bumpy roads. It is similar to a pogo stick experience. And HD tells me that two-up should be at a 30 setting. At that setting, you would knock the fillings out of your teeth. We run it at 10 right now and have experimented with the setting at 3-5. HD could do much better in this department.
@@richardrussell500 I hear you. Sometimes the info in the HD manual boggles the mind.
@@DKCustomProducts HD does a lot of things right... for instance, their fit and finish is some of the best in the industry. rattles and unwanted sounds are almost non-existent. besides their suspension woes, my next concern is engine longevity. I have put 50-100 thousand miles on metric air-cooled v-twins with absolutely zero issues. from all that I keep reading about HD powerplants, this same result is not likely.
Great explanation. Never liked my air suspension on my SGS. I used Terry Cable rear shocks and they are great. Set up for my weight. On the front end all I did was change out the compression dampener for Terry Cable's. Wow. Was as great an upgrade as the rear. Now with this set up the steering is so tight. No diving under breaking. Cornering is amazing. And highway cruising is terrific. Love the set up.
Great to hear you are enjoying your ride and have it set up how you like!
Thank you for the comment. 👍
You're not wrong about getting the sag, rebound and compression set correctly. This will help the bikes handling for sure but I didn't think you are correct in saying that when the front wheel hits a bump the rear wheel unloads and extends ie looses it's sag. I'm sure hitting a bump with the front wheel will also transfer weight to the rear wheel in return compress the rear suspension slightly. This is why compression and rebound needs to control the movement of the wheels as you are correct the bike will pogo all over the place. I don't think you have much control over the standard suspension which on my Slim seems to work well enough.
Thank you for watching the video, AND for your comment.
You are correct, there are bumps that the front wheel will hit that will not unload the rear suspension. But there are bumps that will unload the rear suspension. We should have been more clear that not all bumps will unload the rear...just some bumps.
And, of course, there is using the front brakes (bump or no bump) that results in brake dive which unloads the rear suspension.
With the standard suspension on a Slim you have pre-load adjustment on the rear shocks, and you have two things you can do with the front that will adjust, but not cost anything:
1. Change the preload with a longer or shorter spacer
2. Change the fork oil to a heavier or lighter weight for more or less damping
You can see a chart that shows what we have experienced with the above 2 adjustments to front forks, and how much they improved the ride quality.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm
@@DKCustomProducts thanks. That's a great reply. Yes s dip in the road will unload the rear as will braking. You guys make great videos, I watch all of them, it's just that I felt this was slightly misleading. Thanks for making the videos. Have a great weekend.
@@OrangeManStan Thanks man, appreciate it.
Yea have a 2021 iron 883, I did not want this mc but a friend bought it then lost his job so he was 3 payments behind so no good deed goes unpunished, so he is much lighter than me but put front controls on, then I put a tallboy seat on it, I'm 6.2 250lbs no rear suspension so bought 13inc progressive rear shocks and a +1 kickstand, everyone told me this is the right fix bc my weight will compensate for rear shocks witch have no play at all and all bumps go up my spine, so what about the front end, they want to rip apart a front end of a brand new Mc, so 1inc up seat and 2inc + rear shocks but I do not want to rip apart the front end, there trying to sell me +2 fork tubes why? Why not buy 2inc fork springs or put a +1 handlebar riser? Between me and my friend we put over 2 grand into Mc just to be able to ride it, absolutely no performance parts just stuff I should not have to put on a brand new bike just to be able to ride it, I will install the rear shocks and see how it rides but any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Below are links to a video and to front and rear suspension comparison reports.
After you look at the reports, I think you will understand why I say the following- If the new rear shocks you purchased have not been installed yet, I would return them for a refund. While they are an improvement over stock, there are better options for the $.
www.dkcustomproducts.com/overview-of-performance-rear-shocks-83.htm
www.dkcustomproducts.com/dk-custom-front-suspension-testing-report-part-i-of-ii-dk-fs-tst-rp-i.htm
th-cam.com/video/N1cUpgNJ7i8/w-d-xo.html
I would not fret too much about adding the Intiminators to the front forks. It is a pretty easy process...and is not very expensive.
I would do one mod at a time until you get to the point where you are pleased with the ride quality.
We all your knowledge you guys should built a motorcycle brand 😂🤣🤣
Thank you for the vote of confidence. We barely keep up with making the parts we do, along with R&D for new parts. 😬
Another helpful video. I love the 14" pro-action shocks I purchased from you. Really helps settle the 2018 Tri-glide rear end. I have the 19" Extruder Mag wheel on the front with the narrower tire. Would you suggest a upgrade to the front suspension?
Thank you. Glad you found the video useful. 👍
We appreciate your business and great to hear you are enjoying the benefits of the 14" Trike Series Shocks™
I believe you would be well pleased with an upgrade to the front suspension via the Intiminators or the FST's. See links below-
www.dkcustomproducts.com/fst-asymmetric-fork-cartridge-system-harley-14-touring-trike-dk-prg-mt-ctg-4.htm
www.dkcustomproducts.com/improved-front-suspension-w-intiminator-fork-valves-for-harley-dk-ric-int-39.htm