ive spent days trying to find forums or amplifying information on all this because i am new to the 4runner world. this video helped me and i hope it helps the next person. good content and good quality
This is the absolute best video that I've come across in my research of doing the lift on my truck. You went over everything that I had questions about. I was thinking that I'd have to go to a 4x4 specialist because they would be familiar with the SPCs, and pay that specialist price rate. Because of this, I'm making the adjustments tomorrow morning, having my new tires put on at the local shop, along with having them do the alignment in trip. If they only have to tweak the toe in/out for the most part, that'll save me so much trouble. Honestly, thank you for making this video!
For sure!!! I was super confused too when I got these spc and research showed this is the way! Get it close and let them fine tune the lower arms :). Or tune it to what you want for caster first and let them get the toe and camber in spec
This was such good advice, getting the caster set the way you want before the alignment. I ended up getting 2 alignments because I didn't do that. Once I found this video, it helped me fix the rubbing issues, thanks for the info! I even bought the air hammer, but it didn't work too well for me. I ended up using a small sledge hammer.
Timely video. Just installed BTF upper control arms on my 3rd gen, and it shoved my 33s backward (caster). Going to get an alignment in the morning and hoping they can adjust the cams to bring the control arm forward a bit and get the tire to stop rubbing
Try what I did with the lower cams and see if it clears better. The alignment shop won’t help you and will only get it in the green spec. Set what you can adjust and let them finalize it.
PhoRunner Channel I learned this the hard way a few days ago. The local “chain” alignment shop said they couldn’t adjust the caster. They got everything in the green and called it good. But, with aftermarket geometry, the green means nothing. The place I’m going to tomorrow is an old school alignment shop. They don’t even have computerized alignment racks in there. Been in business for about 60 years in the town I live in. I totally would adjust the cams myself, but I do want to get the toe and everything else dialed in also. Would hate to mess up my new BFGs
@@hunterjohnson4954 yeah. old school methods work. There's not a whole lot to alignments. I was able to to set 2 of the 3 adjustments manually. Sometimes those machines aren't always 100% accurate either I noticed so it is what it is.
@@PhoRunner Got the alignment done this morning by the old school shop, and they fixed the Caster and Toe, etc. Truck drives itself now, it really is night and day. No print outs or computerized machines telling them what to do either :)
Awesome info and presentation. Much appreciated. I’m a 4thgen 4Runner owner. About to install these UPCs with OME springs/shocks and 1” spacer up front.
glad you liked it. I should have shown some adjustments to the SPC upper hehe. Maybe when I get my new tires I will need to adjust them again. My lifetime alignment shop is going to know me by name soon.
Hell yah! Make sure when you get to the shop to tell them to not adjust your caster. Just dial in the camber a little using the lower adjusters since you’ll be close and then dial in the toe. Nothing else!!
@@PhoRunner had my alignment done this afternoon. I was 0.1 degrees from 0 camber and caster was perfect to stuff my 35s. Your method worked like a dream! It's always a headache trying to find someone to align the truck using my SPC UCAs - now I don't have to worry about it!
You make all the bullet-points in detail! That's why this video is so helpful. Thank you for this. I recently picked up a set of SPC UCA's, but I'm holding on till I get the new suspension components completely delivered. I'm going with a Dobinsons IMS setup for the front and back... Those are the non-resi's (in black) that are fully rebuildable and are a 2.2", or 56mm shock. The springs are the heavier of the 2" lifted ones, front C59-134 and rear C59-137V. These are gonna be rough at first because the springs are for a medium to heavy load... I also got the lower UCA bushing from Whiteline, because they are closer to factory, but may be a tad firmer. I didn't want the poly, as it may be too stiff. In the long run, I would like to go with 285/75/16's! I want to avoid cutting up the body as much as possible. 👍
You can use a heat gun and bend most of the plastic inward for clearance instead of cutting. Heat it up, push it in with a hammer handle or something, hold it in until it cools. Great video! Thanks
Good video. Only issue I saw is when talking about reducing the caster to move the tire forward in the wheel well you said letters that would do the opposite due to the instruction being backwards (front of vehicle pointed towards firewall) @about 2:00 in. Wording was right. Letter mentioned was wrong.
I didn't know anything about adjustment before looking at your video. thanks for sharing! maybe update us on what size tyres that you did place on your rig, and also can you explain how to adjust the toe by the tie rod ends?
35's or go home lol! But I saw Austin Brown video on fitting 35s using that method also by taking out his suspension and put a jack under. Good information 👍😊👍😊
Actually, setting E-G will give you less positive caster but more rearward clearance. A-C will give you more caster, but less clearance since you're pushing the ball joint back.
@@xl6589 think of the spindle’s orientation. As you push the bottom (LCA) out you gain caster angle relative to the top (while simultaneously moving the wheel forward). Pushing the top (UCA) side in towards the firewall also increases this angle but also simultaneously is moving the wheel back. Setting it at setting G moves the top forward and, when combined with pushing the bottom forward, nets the maximum amount of clearance.
Damn! You almost got it correct. You're reading the SPC spec sheet backwards. To move the tires forward you want the set the SPC's at E,F, or stock setting of G. "G" is 0 degrees of added Caster. Other than that great video!
I did not watch this video before getting an alignment. I wish I would have because I asked them to adjust my spc upper control arms and Firestone had a conniption fit. I'll do it myself and take it back. Fortunately I paid for lifetime alignments so it wont cost me anything further.
I appreciate the help. Between your channel and Timmy's I feel like I can do anything to my 3rd gen. My girlfriend could see how annoyed I was that I had to pay someone else to work on my truck for the first time. I wont even let someone else change my oil.
Thanks for the video! Gonna be throwing on some 35/12.5/17's on my 4thgen runner...i have my SPC's installed already, will I be able to do this test without removing my front suspension?
Very informative video. Just got my UCA today from RockAuto. They're sold as Mevotech's but are actually stamped with SPC. I wanted to know where you had your alignment done so i can go straight to a shop that knows how to do alignment with these type UCA's. I also wanted to ask what type/brand of grease did you use for the balljoints. If appreciate your input.
Firestone did mine but they have no clue either. Only off-road shops will know how to adjust these so that’s why I made this video to get it close enough to what I want and like then let them dial it in with what they know how to adjust (lower control arms)
Great video! I am struggling with the camber adjustment: After each adjustment, before measuring, I do a short drive to settle the suspension. I can go for a drive and be too positive, then another (without any adjustments) and come back too negative... bolts tight, no changes in the UBJ or cam bolt settlings. Any thoughts?
Do you know if can 5th gens (2015) perform the same placement of LCA alignment bolts as you did to receive max caster? Is it possible to use the cam bolt layout (as you specified) along with setting SPC to max caster to achieve "total max caster"? I need more room for 35s.
Yes should be same setup. And yes you could do this to totally max out the caster. Then adjust the top to fix the camber as best you can and let the alignment shop dial it for toe and camber.
I’m running 285/75r16 on a 16x8 zero offset wheel If I wanted to get a slight poke say, 1 inch. What setting would you say I would have to adjust it to?
You won’t get poke by adjusting the caster or camber. You need wheel spacers to move the wheel out. You’ll run into problems with clearance though if you get too much poke. The fender might hit
Hello sir. I’ve replaced my uca with aftermarket uca bc my oem uca is hitting the springs of my struts. But after i change into an aftermarket uca my wheel is hitting the body of my truck towards the running board area but i have no problem in the front because I have a steel bumper so nothing can hit in the front area but when I brought my truck to the alignment shop they told me that the caster is adjusted fully towards the front but i don’t know if he’s lying bc he’s lazy or not because my caster bolt is not looking the same as yours in this video. What should i do to make it go towards the front as much as possible? And I noticed after the alignment my steering feeling has changed and noticed I have shaking in my steering wheel even though I didn’t have that problem before. (Sorry for the bad english and explanation i hope i make sense I’m from the Philippines) i hope you can help me
Thinking of replacing the springs on rear and front. What part number and brand do you think would be good? I am going with Bilstein 5100 on rear and basically it is I think 0 - 2inch ride height. Thanks for any input!
@@PhoRunner What are the possible sizes of tires and rims I would be able to fit in considering these shocks and springs? Do you recommend any other after market suspension parts? Thanks
How is that possible to get the suspension compressed that much with the lift? You have to apply more force to the spring to compress to bump stop. Where will that force come from if the vehicle weights the same ? In the worst case you can lower your bump stop about an inch to prevent suspension from going up that high
Awesome video! Quick Qs: How much suspension lift do you have to fit those 34s? And did you have to do a diff drop as well? I have a '97 Taco, with ~2-3/4" suspension lift and a 1" puck diff drop, and I was told I can't go larger than my 32/11.5/15s, but I would rather fit 33s without rubbing. Would these SPCs fix that problem and allow me to do so?
Do you have any kind of lift in your setup ? If you do you could have lowered your bump stops without cutting the uptravel range. This would definitely help avoiding the tires rubbing things at full compression. Did you chop body mounts ?
@@PhoRunner nice :). What wheel offset do you run ? Moving the wheel towards the front of the car is easy in your case since you have steel bumper which sticks less at the back compare to stock plastic one
It rode great while I had it like that. I recently got an alignment and the shop did it to spec (sigh) and I think it understeers now. Never did it before when I maxed the caster. Might go back after I reset everything
Just install 35s and move caster to max also did a little bit of adjustment on the camber n toe it drove pretty good no veering to the left or right after but after taking it to do alignment it started steering to the right don’t know if I should take it back or just adjust it myself
I got a question about the spc control arms. I have ome springs and bilsteins all around for a 2.5inch lift and just installed spc control arms yesterday because of your channel and now my front height is basically back to stock. The control arms are flexed upward and im not sure why. Any ideas????
you need to do a whole lot more than just that. Brake lines/etc start needing to be extended. That's why everyone goes 3" max for springs. You could get more lift by doing a body lift. 2" or so.
If you’re alignment is good, it should be just fine. This is to get it back to stock alignment settings or stock toe and camber (caster will be out of spec but caster won’t eat up tires)
@@PhoRunner hopefully you can help me out. So Im rocking 285/70/17 w 17x9 -38 offset wheels. A couple days ago, I am exiting the highway on one of those wide loops. I turn my wheel all the way to the left and the wheels hit something and push me to the right. I have spc uca’s and I’m sure they’re set on the D setting. If I had to guess I would say I hit the frame. I’ve got a BMC done already. What setting should I try to set it at if I’m hitting the frame or anything else. Sorry if I’m unclear
Definitely sounds like the frame. Those are super wide wheels! The caster moving forward won’t really help with that. You should be able to check frame clearance by just turning steering wheel lock to lock. It might have shifted a little with the weight shifting over on the turn
Hmm I’ll have to check and get back to you. I definitely hear some noise in my front suspension these days. I don’t drive much but it could be those bushings
Hey man If I move the caster plate on position C it leaves less room and tire starts rubbing more where I did pinch weld mode but if I set it at E it leaves little more room so basically it’s working opposite way. I’m little confused. Any idea why it’s doing that?
Thanks bud! I’ve been on 3 different alignment shops but non of those know anything about SPC adjustable upper control arms. They even don’t wanna touch them. So I think it’s best to do lower cams and upper ball joints adjustment by yourself and then take it to them like you did.
I got one more question. Can I set one side on E other on F or both sides supposed to be on the same latter? Because alignment guys were not able to get steering straight without moving my lower cams back to negative on driver’s side and that made the wheel start rubbing again? I told them to turn the cams back to maximum positive and try to get steering straight as much as possible. Steering wheel is still little off but not too bad. Thanks
@@marsshaw799 you'll want the lowers in a neutral position for maximum adjustment for alignment shop. They need that to dial in the toe. You can set each side different yes but probably want it the same if your frame is straight. You want to set the caster the way you like it with the E/F etc, then adjust the camber with the top nut close to dead 0 with lower arms in neutral position. Then the alignment shop will dial in the camber and toe with the lower arms
@@PhoRunnerwhat about with cam eliminators set at rear outboard, front inboard like you have it in the video. Some forums say they ran G setting for spc castor and all the mechanic had to do was set the toe.
They won’t even touch the aftermarket upper. They will only adjust the lowers and they will do what you tell them but make sure to tell them ahead of them. Otherwise they will try to get it in spec for caster and camber
ive spent days trying to find forums or amplifying information on all this because i am new to the 4runner world. this video helped me and i hope it helps the next person. good content and good quality
Thanks. Yeah I got tired of poking around and was getting no where so decided to make my own video and do my own exploring lol
This is the absolute best video that I've come across in my research of doing the lift on my truck. You went over everything that I had questions about. I was thinking that I'd have to go to a 4x4 specialist because they would be familiar with the SPCs, and pay that specialist price rate. Because of this, I'm making the adjustments tomorrow morning, having my new tires put on at the local shop, along with having them do the alignment in trip. If they only have to tweak the toe in/out for the most part, that'll save me so much trouble.
Honestly, thank you for making this video!
For sure!!! I was super confused too when I got these spc and research showed this is the way! Get it close and let them fine tune the lower arms :). Or tune it to what you want for caster first and let them get the toe and camber in spec
Probably the best alignment video I’ve seen in a long time. Extremely thorough. 🤙
thanks for watching. I didn't see anyone else do a video like this so I figure I would do it.
This was such good advice, getting the caster set the way you want before the alignment. I ended up getting 2 alignments because I didn't do that. Once I found this video, it helped me fix the rubbing issues, thanks for the info! I even bought the air hammer, but it didn't work too well for me. I ended up using a small sledge hammer.
Nice. Yeah set it the way you like it and let them fine tune it! Bummer on the air hammer but I can see big blows working better :)
Great job detailing how the SPC UCAs work and how to get everything setup prior to an alignment! Thanks!
No problem!
Thank you! I'm installing a full suspension kit and spc arms on my tacoma and was a bit overwhelmed. Your video helped me a TON! Really appreciate it!
Excellent! No problem!
Timely video. Just installed BTF upper control arms on my 3rd gen, and it shoved my 33s backward (caster). Going to get an alignment in the morning and hoping they can adjust the cams to bring the control arm forward a bit and get the tire to stop rubbing
Try what I did with the lower cams and see if it clears better. The alignment shop won’t help you and will only get it in the green spec. Set what you can adjust and let them finalize it.
PhoRunner Channel I learned this the hard way a few days ago. The local “chain” alignment shop said they couldn’t adjust the caster. They got everything in the green and called it good. But, with aftermarket geometry, the green means nothing. The place I’m going to tomorrow is an old school alignment shop. They don’t even have computerized alignment racks in there. Been in business for about 60 years in the town I live in. I totally would adjust the cams myself, but I do want to get the toe and everything else dialed in also. Would hate to mess up my new BFGs
@@hunterjohnson4954 yeah. old school methods work. There's not a whole lot to alignments. I was able to to set 2 of the 3 adjustments manually. Sometimes those machines aren't always 100% accurate either I noticed so it is what it is.
@@PhoRunner Got the alignment done this morning by the old school shop, and they fixed the Caster and Toe, etc. Truck drives itself now, it really is night and day. No print outs or computerized machines telling them what to do either :)
@@hunterjohnson4954 it's definitely possible!
Awesome info and presentation. Much appreciated. I’m a 4thgen 4Runner owner. About to install these UPCs with OME springs/shocks and 1” spacer up front.
Nice bud. Same should apply!
Great video, Clear explanation, & "to the point" examples of content.
You are welcome!!
I got the same set of control arms. Damn your content is great dog and straight to the point.
glad you liked it. I should have shown some adjustments to the SPC upper hehe. Maybe when I get my new tires I will need to adjust them again. My lifetime alignment shop is going to know me by name soon.
Thanks for the fantastic content! I have SPC UCAs on my Tacoma and this video helped me get my 35s squared away before my alignment.
Hell yah! Make sure when you get to the shop to tell them to not adjust your caster. Just dial in the camber a little using the lower adjusters since you’ll be close and then dial in the toe. Nothing else!!
@@PhoRunner had my alignment done this afternoon. I was 0.1 degrees from 0 camber and caster was perfect to stuff my 35s. Your method worked like a dream! It's always a headache trying to find someone to align the truck using my SPC UCAs - now I don't have to worry about it!
I love the wheel and tire swap in the video 😂 great video!
Thanks. They are pretty nice.
You make all the bullet-points in detail! That's why this video is so helpful. Thank you for this. I recently picked up a set of SPC UCA's, but I'm holding on till I get the new suspension components completely delivered. I'm going with a Dobinsons IMS setup for the front and back... Those are the non-resi's (in black) that are fully rebuildable and are a 2.2", or 56mm shock. The springs are the heavier of the 2" lifted ones, front C59-134 and rear C59-137V. These are gonna be rough at first because the springs are for a medium to heavy load... I also got the lower UCA bushing from Whiteline, because they are closer to factory, but may be a tad firmer. I didn't want the poly, as it may be too stiff. In the long run, I would like to go with 285/75/16's! I want to avoid cutting up the body as much as possible. 👍
I think it’ll be close!
You can use a heat gun and bend most of the plastic inward for clearance instead of cutting. Heat it up, push it in with a hammer handle or something, hold it in until it cools. Great video! Thanks
Yup I did that also but some of it just had to go lol
Good video. Only issue I saw is when talking about reducing the caster to move the tire forward in the wheel well you said letters that would do the opposite due to the instruction being backwards (front of vehicle pointed towards firewall) @about 2:00 in. Wording was right. Letter mentioned was wrong.
Man this is a quality vid. Rare these days!
Thanks!
I didn't know anything about adjustment before looking at your video. thanks for sharing! maybe update us on what size tyres that you did place on your rig, and also can you explain how to adjust the toe by the tie rod ends?
285/75/17 :). You just loosen the jam nut and turn the inner tie rod
Good video. Did great explaining how the adjustments move around.
No problem man! It was confusing for me so figure I’d film what I learned to help others
The only video I could find good job bro👍🏻👍🏻
Anytime!
Not a runner owner but am a 1st gen owner getting spc for my 97 taco and great vid that way it'll help me clear 35s haha
Nice man. Yup same thing for the most part.
@@PhoRunner yea ive heard good stuff about spc they are the best bang for your buck with good outstanding quality
Keep them coming this was great
thanks for watching!
35's or go home lol! But I saw Austin Brown video on fitting 35s using that method also by taking out his suspension and put a jack under. Good information 👍😊👍😊
yup, the only way to do it right. that's why lifts don't fit tires.... except for daily driving lol
no 35s for this guy hahaha.
SPC condensed version of this topic is kind of foggy, this clears it right up! Thanks
Yeah I watched there’s like so many times lol. Figured id make one for 3rd gen owners specifically.
Just got mine done, curious what ur caster #s were after u took it to the shop to get tuned?
I have it in my video.
14:10 shows the results
Duh, thanks!
Actually, setting E-G will give you less positive caster but more rearward clearance. A-C will give you more caster, but less clearance since you're pushing the ball joint back.
I was thinking the same thing. I was hoping someone touched on it in the comment section
Correct, this guy had me fucked up
Not sure why I’m not understanding this so if tire need to get move forward from rubbing the body mount I should set setting at e-g?
@@xl6589 think of the spindle’s orientation. As you push the bottom (LCA) out you gain caster angle relative to the top (while simultaneously moving the wheel forward). Pushing the top (UCA) side in towards the firewall also increases this angle but also simultaneously is moving the wheel back. Setting it at setting G moves the top forward and, when combined with pushing the bottom forward, nets the maximum amount of clearance.
@@dandnguyen thank you! Make sense now
Damn! You almost got it correct. You're reading the SPC spec sheet backwards.
To move the tires forward you want the set the SPC's at E,F, or stock setting of G.
"G" is 0 degrees of added Caster. Other than that great video!
50/50 shot lol
I did not watch this video before getting an alignment. I wish I would have because I asked them to adjust my spc upper control arms and Firestone had a conniption fit. I'll do it myself and take it back. Fortunately I paid for lifetime alignments so it wont cost me anything further.
Nice yeah!! They have no clue what to do with the uppers hehe. Get it close like mine and send it back. Should be good ;)
I appreciate the help. Between your channel and Timmy's I feel like I can do anything to my 3rd gen. My girlfriend could see how annoyed I was that I had to pay someone else to work on my truck for the first time. I wont even let someone else change my oil.
I love timmy!!!
Thanks for the video! Gonna be throwing on some 35/12.5/17's on my 4thgen runner...i have my SPC's installed already, will I be able to do this test without removing my front suspension?
It’ll be tough with the shock in to get full compression
Very informative video. Just got my UCA today from RockAuto. They're sold as Mevotech's but are actually stamped with SPC. I wanted to know where you had your alignment done so i can go straight to a shop that knows how to do alignment with these type UCA's. I also wanted to ask what type/brand of grease did you use for the balljoints. If appreciate your input.
Firestone did mine but they have no clue either. Only off-road shops will know how to adjust these so that’s why I made this video to get it close enough to what I want and like then let them dial it in with what they know how to adjust (lower control arms)
For grease, head to o reilly and buy the grease they recommend in the instructions. Cheap and works :)
Great video! I am struggling with the camber adjustment: After each adjustment, before measuring, I do a short drive to settle the suspension. I can go for a drive and be too positive, then another (without any adjustments) and come back too negative... bolts tight, no changes in the UBJ or cam bolt settlings. Any thoughts?
Check your bushings. Maybe they are gonezo!
Excellent content ...will this work for 2nd gen taco ??? Thanks
Hmm yes but you’ll likely need a body mount chop too
Hey bro great video what was the name of that kit for putting in the ball joints.
Otc front end service 6295 and otc balljoint 7249 kit
Thanks for the useful info in this video, one question, how do you adjust camber if you're running stock upper control arms on a 3rd gen 4runner??
You have to adjust the lower cams. You won’t have much adjustability since adjusting camber affects caster and vice versa.
Great video!
Thanks sir
How did the spc control arm bushings hold out any issues to date?
So far seems ok but I do get some strange noises when my vehicle sits too long. Almost like bushings aren’t happy
I'm running the same control arm right now what will be the replacement ball joint for it? Thanks in advance
I’m not sure yet. Is yours bad already? I hear it’s a common one though and easy to change
285/70/17 job done.
Lol yes or 285/75/16
Do you know if can 5th gens (2015) perform the same placement of LCA alignment bolts as you did to receive max caster? Is it possible to use the cam bolt layout (as you specified) along with setting SPC to max caster to achieve "total max caster"? I need more room for 35s.
Yes should be same setup. And yes you could do this to totally max out the caster. Then adjust the top to fix the camber as best you can and let the alignment shop dial it for toe and camber.
How often do you check the UCA nut when off-roading and normal street use?
I mark it and just look at it once in a while to make sure it didn’t move. It hasn’t moved yet
Have you heard of Poly Performance permanent cam plates? Locks LCA in either max , neutral, min cam bolt position.
Did you set at F?
Whatever I set it on in the video is what I’m still on
I’m running 285/75r16 on a 16x8 zero offset wheel
If I wanted to get a slight poke say, 1 inch. What setting would you say I would have to adjust it to?
You won’t get poke by adjusting the caster or camber. You need wheel spacers to move the wheel out. You’ll run into problems with clearance though if you get too much poke. The fender might hit
after you adjust the caster on the UCA do you need to get the alignment redone?
Yes
@@PhoRunner I was thinking so but wanted to check without someone else who knew more about suspension than myself LOL.
No problem
How do you know you have enough grease in the spc uca ball joint? can you over grease? Thanks.
It’ll just come out as you drive if you put too much lol.
@@PhoRunner Thank you.
I just bought some
ko2 285/70/17 for my Tacoma will this technique work for my truck?
Yes
What cv axles are you running I'm having an issue with stock style cv axles ripping boots and binding
Not sure. Just came from the junkyard when I did my manual hubs
What model floor jack is in the background?
Some Amazon special. Save the money and get a hf one
Hello sir. I’ve replaced my uca with aftermarket uca bc my oem uca is hitting the springs of my struts. But after i change into an aftermarket uca my wheel is hitting the body of my truck towards the running board area but i have no problem in the front because I have a steel bumper so nothing can hit in the front area but when I brought my truck to the alignment shop they told me that the caster is adjusted fully towards the front but i don’t know if he’s lying bc he’s lazy or not because my caster bolt is not looking the same as yours in this video. What should i do to make it go towards the front as much as possible? And I noticed after the alignment my steering feeling has changed and noticed I have shaking in my steering wheel even though I didn’t have that problem before. (Sorry for the bad english and explanation i hope i make sense I’m from the Philippines) i hope you can help me
Thinking of replacing the springs on rear and front. What part number and brand do you think would be good? I am going with Bilstein 5100 on rear and basically it is I think 0 - 2inch ride height. Thanks for any input!
Ome 880/881 front and ome 906 rear. Good stance and not obnoxious like mine lol
@@PhoRunner What are the possible sizes of tires and rims I would be able to fit in considering these shocks and springs? Do you recommend any other after market suspension parts? Thanks
@@cuppy3755 265/75/16 or 265/70/17 should be no problem. That's one size up from the factory size.
@@PhoRunner What about 275 or 285?
@@cuppy3755 275 should be fine. 285 is getting iffy :)
Is the front of your truck lifted? Thanks!
Yuppp
How is that possible to get the suspension compressed that much with the lift? You have to apply more force to the spring to compress to bump stop. Where will that force come from if the vehicle weights the same ? In the worst case you can lower your bump stop about an inch to prevent suspension from going up that high
I took my spring and shock out. It likely won’t compress that much but offroad can do some crazy things lol
Very informative.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Quick Qs: How much suspension lift do you have to fit those 34s? And did you have to do a diff drop as well?
I have a '97 Taco, with ~2-3/4" suspension lift and a 1" puck diff drop, and I was told I can't go larger than my 32/11.5/15s, but I would rather fit 33s without rubbing. Would these SPCs fix that problem and allow me to do so?
Nevermind... Just subscribed and realized you got this covered in your previous vids. Thanks.
no problem! it fits great under there without spacers and TRD wheels.
Sweet vid bro
Thanks man
Do you have any kind of lift in your setup ?
If you do you could have lowered your bump stops without cutting the uptravel range. This would definitely help avoiding the tires rubbing things at full compression.
Did you chop body mounts ?
2” lift in this video. I have 2.5-3” now.
No body mount chop as it’s pretty far out of the way
@@PhoRunner have you installed 34s after all ?
Yea I did
@@PhoRunner nice :).
What wheel offset do you run ?
Moving the wheel towards the front of the car is easy in your case since you have steel bumper which sticks less at the back compare to stock plastic one
+4mm
@phorunner Can this be done with the wheels on the ground or do they have to be in the air?
Have to be in the air for the camber adjustment. The lower cams can be on the ground
How the ride after setting your caster to positive heard it harder to steer n steering wheel will noticeably vibrate going higher speed
It rode great while I had it like that. I recently got an alignment and the shop did it to spec (sigh) and I think it understeers now. Never did it before when I maxed the caster. Might go back after I reset everything
Just install 35s and move caster to max also did a little bit of adjustment on the camber n toe it drove pretty good no veering to the left or right after but after taking it to do alignment it started steering to the right don’t know if I should take it back or just adjust it myself
I got a question about the spc control arms. I have ome springs and bilsteins all around for a 2.5inch lift and just installed spc control arms yesterday because of your channel and now my front height is basically back to stock. The control arms are flexed upward and im not sure why. Any ideas????
Hmmm control arms shouldn't affect lift. That's odd.
if you go beyond 3 inch lift up front you need to upgrade UC?
you need to do a whole lot more than just that. Brake lines/etc start needing to be extended. That's why everyone goes 3" max for springs. You could get more lift by doing a body lift. 2" or so.
If I do this will it eat my tires on longer drives?
If you’re alignment is good, it should be just fine. This is to get it back to stock alignment settings or stock toe and camber (caster will be out of spec but caster won’t eat up tires)
You said you’re hitting the frame and was wondering if you had CMC already done or not?
This vehicle doesn’t need a body mount chop since it’s farther back. It’s hitting the fender sheet metal.
@@PhoRunner hopefully you can help me out. So Im rocking 285/70/17 w 17x9 -38 offset wheels. A couple days ago, I am exiting the highway on one of those wide loops. I turn my wheel all the way to the left and the wheels hit something and push me to the right. I have spc uca’s and I’m sure they’re set on the D setting. If I had to guess I would say I hit the frame. I’ve got a BMC done already. What setting should I try to set it at if I’m hitting the frame or anything else. Sorry if I’m unclear
Definitely sounds like the frame. Those are super wide wheels! The caster moving forward won’t really help with that. You should be able to check frame clearance by just turning steering wheel lock to lock. It might have shifted a little with the weight shifting over on the turn
Would this apply to Tacoma's as well?
Yup
Still trying to find a video like this for trailblazers...they’re totally different
Sucks... sorry man!
Have you had any issues with the bushings? Mine got toasted in 2yrs
Hmm I’ll have to check and get back to you. I definitely hear some noise in my front suspension these days. I don’t drive much but it could be those bushings
Hey man If I move the caster plate on position C it leaves less room and tire starts rubbing more where I did pinch weld mode but if I set it at E it leaves little more room so basically it’s working opposite way. I’m little confused. Any idea why it’s doing that?
Yeah I got it backwards. You got it right bud!
Thanks bud! I’ve been on 3 different alignment shops but non of those know anything about SPC adjustable upper control arms. They even don’t wanna touch them. So I think it’s best to do lower cams and upper ball joints adjustment by yourself and then take it to them like you did.
I got one more question. Can I set one side on E other on F or both sides supposed to be on the same latter? Because alignment guys were not able to get steering straight without moving my lower cams back to negative on driver’s side and that made the wheel start rubbing again? I told them to turn the cams back to maximum positive and try to get steering straight as much as possible. Steering wheel is still little off but not too bad. Thanks
@@marsshaw799 you'll want the lowers in a neutral position for maximum adjustment for alignment shop. They need that to dial in the toe. You can set each side different yes but probably want it the same if your frame is straight. You want to set the caster the way you like it with the E/F etc, then adjust the camber with the top nut close to dead 0 with lower arms in neutral position. Then the alignment shop will dial in the camber and toe with the lower arms
@@PhoRunnerwhat about with cam eliminators set at rear outboard, front inboard like you have it in the video. Some forums say they ran G setting for spc castor and all the mechanic had to do was set the toe.
Do you have a body lift on your 4runner?
I do not.
What kind of center caps are those? Link?
Those are manual locking hubs not center cabs
Thanks
Of course
Nice 👍🏾
Throw on some 2” body lift👍🏾
Nah... lol
I have spc n 285/70/17 17x8 - 15 but my upper control arms hitting me tires but i dont wanna run spacer any advices?
Weird. Mine doesn’t hit at all and it’s 17x7 4mm offset
Nvm there positive offset 15 thats why they are hitting me tire i guess spacer for a bit. Till next year lol
Shouldn’t the alignment shop do all of that though ?
Most don’t know how to adjust spc aftermarket arms so they won’t even touch these.
Why not just 33's man. With flex you will hit a lot more places
34s better. Only place I’m hitting is that washer fluid which is easy to relocate
Love your channel. Gotta change that intro music. It's melancholy and depressing.
Thanks bro and sorry ahha
It’s not level it’s plumb
Thanks for the correction :)
It too big forget it.
Self clearance
Thanks for the helpful video. So in your experience most shop won’t max out the negative caster for you?
They won’t even touch the aftermarket upper. They will only adjust the lowers and they will do what you tell them but make sure to tell them ahead of them. Otherwise they will try to get it in spec for caster and camber