*Update* I was able to get the fridge to run colder on the original thermostat, but there was no range for adjustment. I ended up just buying a replacement thermostat and calibrating it.
Since having placed the white cable dangling on the side of the fridge and setting the temp dial to mid range, the back panel gets frosty to the point that drinks actually freeze (become like a slush puppy) and then after a couple of days, the back panel warms up and doesn't re-cool. If I reset the temp dial ie taking it to zero (till I hear a click) and then setting it once again to mid range then the back panel gets frosty once again. Does this mean the thermostate is bad / needs replacing or is there soemthing I can adjust on it to get it to 'maintain' the cool temp? Thanks in advance for your perspective.
This is totally what was wrong with my danby mini fridge so weird! Ibdid end up putting in a new thermostat though because it was -3 then celsius in the door. The replacement doesnt line up with the knob though now so no idea if its all the way cold or not.
2:30 time. > thankyou, Mr Jonathan, for this video. The temperature, is directly proportional to those engineers' lack of knowledge about 'thermodynamics'. There are laws, governing this. THEY SHOULD HAVE that temperature sensing wire, NOT touching, nor close to that back metal panel. This would give the thermostat, the wrong temperature; ie: > temperature of the metal plate, and NOT THE AMBIENT AIR TEMPERATURE, which is what a 'fridge' is for; = to preserve the 'stuff' in it. AIR TEMPERATURE. Don't know what's coming in the rest of the video, but i hope you re-route that sensing wire, about 1 inch away from the back metal plate. Thusly providing the 'proper' air temperature, of the inside of fridge. Shalom !
I'm trying to pull the thermostat out of a Danby beverage cooler, and the temperature wire seems to be attached to the back panel. Do I have to remove that panel to get it out?
I think I figured out why the wire touches the cooling elements in the back. Apparently there are two types of thermostats- WDF is a constant temperature reset, used in the ice compartment of the refrigerator, and is designed to be turned on at a temperature above 0 degrees. Mine is a WDF25 (Frigidaire/Danby) WPF is a temperature difference reset, a few degrees away from the return switch WDF=refrigerator thermostat, WPF=freezer thermostat So this particular Mini Fridge has a WDF which relies on the 0 temp reading of the freezer (back part). Other use the WDF which isn't in the back and uses a temp differential. Apparently if you have a WDF you can use a WPF type (probably relocating the tstat wire) but you can't go from a WPF tstat to WDF. I'm thinking about swapping it over to a WPF - thinking it will be a better range as currently when it reaches low temp, it shuts off for an hour plus... assuming it has to be above zero temp for it kicks on.
I did research on this because I was curious why my double door (freezer/fridge) mini fridge acted differently than my single door mini fridge. Difference is between how they operate. WPF thermostats are put in mini-fridges with chiller compartments within the fridge one. These get really cold but will build up and attract frost, they turn on and don't shut off until the fridge reaches ideal temp. WDF thermostats are put in mini-fridges with separate fridge and freezer compartments. They click on and shut off when the condenser gets too cold. This allows frost to melt off the condenser and collect on a drip tray underneath the fridge and on the compressor, leaving to a frost free fridge. This also means the compressor turns on less often and temperatures will have spikes if you open your fridge often. WPF is better but allows frost to collect and will require a manual defrost. I tried WPF thermostats in my freezer/fridge and it always runs often and collects frost, but my thermometer shows it never stayed too long in that 42 F+ "danger zone" . WDF has long off and on cycles, the long breaks allows temperatures to spike but also gives the condenser time to warm up and melt away frost. Pick your poison.
The wire I’m showing in the video comes from the thermostat and the other end does not go into anything . The wire is the gauge that helps the thermostat read the temperature parameters..
*Update*
I was able to get the fridge to run colder on the original thermostat, but there was no range for adjustment. I ended up just buying a replacement thermostat and calibrating it.
Thanks so much for this video :). It seems to have resolved my issue!!
Since having placed the white cable dangling on the side of the fridge and setting the temp dial to mid range, the back panel gets frosty to the point that drinks actually freeze (become like a slush puppy) and then after a couple of days, the back panel warms up and doesn't re-cool. If I reset the temp dial ie taking it to zero (till I hear a click) and then setting it once again to mid range then the back panel gets frosty once again.
Does this mean the thermostate is bad / needs replacing or is there soemthing I can adjust on it to get it to 'maintain' the cool temp?
Thanks in advance for your perspective.
This is totally what was wrong with my danby mini fridge so weird! Ibdid end up putting in a new thermostat though because it was -3 then celsius in the door. The replacement doesnt line up with the knob though now so no idea if its all the way cold or not.
2:30 time. > thankyou, Mr Jonathan, for this video. The temperature, is directly proportional to those engineers' lack of knowledge about 'thermodynamics'.
There are laws, governing this. THEY SHOULD HAVE that temperature sensing wire, NOT touching, nor close to that back metal panel. This would give the thermostat, the wrong temperature; ie: > temperature of the metal plate, and NOT THE AMBIENT AIR TEMPERATURE, which is what a 'fridge' is for; = to preserve the 'stuff' in it. AIR TEMPERATURE. Don't know what's coming in the rest of the video, but i hope you re-route that sensing wire, about 1 inch away from the back metal plate. Thusly providing the 'proper' air temperature, of the inside of fridge. Shalom !
I'm trying to pull the thermostat out of a Danby beverage cooler, and the temperature wire seems to be attached to the back panel. Do I have to remove that panel to get it out?
Yes, that’s what I did.
I think I figured out why the wire touches the cooling elements in the back. Apparently there are two types of thermostats- WDF is a constant temperature reset, used in the ice compartment of the refrigerator, and is designed to be turned on at a temperature above 0 degrees. Mine is a WDF25 (Frigidaire/Danby)
WPF is a temperature difference reset, a few degrees away from the return switch
WDF=refrigerator thermostat, WPF=freezer thermostat
So this particular Mini Fridge has a WDF which relies on the 0 temp reading of the freezer (back part). Other use the WDF which isn't in the back and uses a temp differential.
Apparently if you have a WDF you can use a WPF type (probably relocating the tstat wire) but you can't go from a WPF tstat to WDF.
I'm thinking about swapping it over to a WPF - thinking it will be a better range as currently when it reaches low temp, it shuts off for an hour plus... assuming it has to be above zero temp for it kicks on.
I did research on this because I was curious why my double door (freezer/fridge) mini fridge acted differently than my single door mini fridge. Difference is between how they operate. WPF thermostats are put in mini-fridges with chiller compartments within the fridge one. These get really cold but will build up and attract frost, they turn on and don't shut off until the fridge reaches ideal temp.
WDF thermostats are put in mini-fridges with separate fridge and freezer compartments. They click on and shut off when the condenser gets too cold. This allows frost to melt off the condenser and collect on a drip tray underneath the fridge and on the compressor, leaving to a frost free fridge. This also means the compressor turns on less often and temperatures will have spikes if you open your fridge often.
WPF is better but allows frost to collect and will require a manual defrost. I tried WPF thermostats in my freezer/fridge and it always runs often and collects frost, but my thermometer shows it never stayed too long in that 42 F+ "danger zone" . WDF has long off and on cycles, the long breaks allows temperatures to spike but also gives the condenser time to warm up and melt away frost. Pick your poison.
Appreciate the detailed and informative comment.
Does that rear panel with the embossed coil pattern on it come off by itself or does the cooling element come off with it?
So these are not meant to come off. They are all part of the cooling circuit with the compressor.
@@everybodysjonathan Was wondering how you removed the temperature probe from the clamp on the back of the panel.
I think I removed the mounting of the panel and pulled it back to gain access.
@@everybodysjonathan Right-o. Thanks!
Is it safe if that white whire the temperature wire is naked ? thanks for the reply
Perfectly safe. It’s Just better at reading the temp if it’s not touching the inside walls.
Does that wire plug in somewhere ? As its hanging down and freezer keeps freezing up?
The wire I’m showing in the video comes from the thermostat and the other end does not go into anything . The wire is the gauge that helps the thermostat read the temperature parameters..
Nice video but the tisk every few words is annoying and distracting
You hung the flag backward
You’re right! Thank you, I’m going to change it now.