I've roofed for 38 yrs, I've never seen anyone double up the Bvent flashing other than on a tile roof ( I live in Colorado ) Having said that, I have absolutely nothing negative to say about this presentation. I enjoyed seeing this. Thanks, live long, work well!☮️☑️
Seems to make sense. Since you have a shingle butted up against the front of the b vent, you have a potential entry point for water. The double vent prevents this. Perhaps an option to avoid that would be to install the original flashing with the bottom exposed over the shingles at the bottom as is common with roof vents.
I wish you guys were in Houston. I would have given you my Roof job. I still have the one leak around the Water Heat Vent, and this is the way the roofer should have fixed it. Now I know what to look for when they come back to do the warranty work. Thank you.
So how is the storm collar attached? Do you nail it? Is it supposed to move? Our cap blew off during hurricane in FL just need to replace it. I noticed that our collar is moving up and down and has a lot of caulking around it.
I have solid 1X6 sheathing and the roofers put underlayment then shingles over. From the attic I can see nails come through the underlayment in between the sheathing. Seems not secure to me. Won't that leak ?
Yes, most things done well tend to look like overkill, but when you consider the B-Vents in Central Texas fail inspections 40% of the time due to lack of clearance costing home sellers hundreds of dollars to repair, and they are the number one leak in Central Texas, maybe it's worth it. Thanks for you comment, have a great 2020. GW
Thank you! So in your example: do you have 4" B-vent with two 4" flashing and a 4" storm collar. Then a 5" single wall counterflash pipe over it all leading to a 4" cap? I don't understand if you are connecting a 4" cap (by 90 deg twist) to the 4" B-vent or is that a 5" single wall cap connected to the 5" counter flash single wall pipe?
Excellent question. I'd like to know as well. I like the single wall pipe converted to "counterflashing" and my concern would be how the counterflashing connects into the roof cap. If it connects to the 5" single wall pipe, then the 4" type B is not terminated with a listed cap. It may work ok and the counterflashing sounds great but technically, you would have an incomplete listed B vent system. Looking closer at the video again (4:12), my guess is the roof cap is connecting to the inner type B pipe.
My thoughts exactly. The tolerances on those caps are small so they don't lift in high winds. Adding additional layers will require the cap to go inside the counter flashing and I don't think you will have a listed install that way. The lack of response from Mr. Whillock speaks for its self.
All parts of a 4" B-Vent are 4", and fit perfectly together except the counter flashing, the 5" single wall pipe fits over the 4" B-Vent pipe and collar, then is covered with the umbrella of the 4" cap.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment. The top layer is fabricated from a single wall pipe, available at quality AC suppliers. Solder the joint!
My Amerivent Type B furnace vent pipe leaks from the INSIDE, dripping from a seam in the sheet-metal elbow below the roof vent. The outside of the pipe in the attic is dry. The water is definitely coming from INSIDE the vent pipe, at one of the seams in the sheet-metal elbow, as though the cap itself (outdoors, above) is leaking. The rain water then drips out of a ceiling-mount light fixture inside the house, which is how I noticed the leak. I finally hung a bucket just below the leaking elbow in the attic as a band-aid temporary fix. I'd like to know if I need to replace the outdoor vent cap itself or what? This is a fairly new house, and has always had this problem. No the flashing is not leaking at all - the water is coming from inside the pipe. My worry now is corrosion of the vent pipe and maybe the furnace itself, considering that much more water may be flowing past the elbow where we see it dripping from, right into the furnace. Any suggestions?
Your thinking is spot on! Is there a chance you have a picture of the cap handy? Also, a photo from a distance and if you don't mind, home address, so I can Google to see. Please use our website to send an inquiry. www.exteriorsbygarywhillock.com Nearly every page has a request form at the bottom. GW
Curious as to why you didnt extend the water shield down further so that it was over the top edge of a shingle so that if water did get to it, it would shed over a shingle and not under it. Am I overthinking this?
Good question. Time reveals, empirical evidence clearly shows that having two layers of protection is better than one. Mixing, as so many do, the underlayment and the shingles, creates the opportunity for flaws, confused installs. Keep it clean and simple, a water-tight underlayment and a water-tight shingles system. One example, what happens if a shingle blows off? What happens if it's the one under your underlayment? Food for thought, thanks for your question! GW
Some say overkill. But if it works. Call it what you want. I never understood the caulking around the weather cap for the flashing. It'll wear off eventually. Caulking doesn't look professionally on the outside. I live in the Midwest, so we go from hot, cold, to artic. So that caulking I'm sure would age and wear off
I've roofed for 38 yrs,
I've never seen anyone double up the Bvent flashing other than on a tile roof ( I live in Colorado )
Having said that, I have absolutely nothing negative to say about this presentation.
I enjoyed seeing this.
Thanks, live long, work well!☮️☑️
Thanks for watching!
Seems to make sense. Since you have a shingle butted up against the front of the b vent, you have a potential entry point for water. The double vent prevents this. Perhaps an option to avoid that would be to install the original flashing with the bottom exposed over the shingles at the bottom as is common with roof vents.
No one does this. Ever.
@@jerseyjim9092 yes, you’re supposed to leave the bottom edge exposed, just like on the second flashing he installed, that’s why this makes no sense!
OMG
Lead jack
Double contained duct
Single contained duct
Under shingle flashing
Over shingle flashing
Anti missile vent cap
I wish you guys were in Houston. I would have given you my Roof job. I still have the one leak around the Water Heat Vent, and this is the way the roofer should have fixed it. Now I know what to look for when they come back to do the warranty work. Thank you.
Very good , plain and clear demo. Congrats and Thanks. This should be helpful for everyone.
Very helpful, I appreciate you sharing this video. Thank you so much
That was great information. I don't like using caulk on any vent pipe transferring heat because of the expansion/ contraction cycle. Thanks again...
Your welcome and thanks for your comment!
Thanks for this comment.
Thank you, finally after Searching from hours I found this video
Best instruction video I've found thanks!
Thanks for your comment!
outstanding video for a very proper installation. Thank you. you guys do terrific work.
Thanks for the comment.
Exactly the video I’ve been searching for! Thank you very much for sharing.
Alex Moreno it's installed wrong tho
Why
So how is the storm collar attached? Do you nail it? Is it supposed to move? Our cap blew off during hurricane in FL just need to replace it. I noticed that our collar is moving up and down and has a lot of caulking around it.
just had my roof done a year ago water boiler vent is dripping now....
I have solid 1X6 sheathing and the roofers put underlayment then shingles over. From the attic I can see nails come through the underlayment in between the sheathing. Seems not secure to me. Won't that leak ?
Do you still screw the cap on? Isn't the screw going to distort the outer flashing in the process?
evidently this system has been working for you. It looks like excessive overkill till you get a leak I guess.
Yes, most things done well tend to look like overkill, but when you consider the B-Vents in Central Texas fail inspections 40% of the time due to lack of clearance costing home sellers hundreds of dollars to repair, and they are the number one leak in Central Texas, maybe it's worth it. Thanks for you comment, have a great 2020. GW
How close to the gable end of a house can a b vent be installed?
Thank you! So in your example: do you have 4" B-vent with two 4" flashing and a 4" storm collar. Then a 5" single wall counterflash pipe over it all leading to a 4" cap? I don't understand if you are connecting a 4" cap (by 90 deg twist) to the 4" B-vent or is that a 5" single wall cap connected to the 5" counter flash single wall pipe?
Excellent question. I'd like to know as well. I like the single wall pipe converted to "counterflashing" and my concern would be how the counterflashing connects into the roof cap. If it connects to the 5" single wall pipe, then the 4" type B is not terminated with a listed cap. It may work ok and the counterflashing sounds great but technically, you would have an incomplete listed B vent system. Looking closer at the video again (4:12), my guess is the roof cap is connecting to the inner type B pipe.
My thoughts exactly. The tolerances on those caps are small so they don't lift in high winds. Adding additional layers will require the cap to go inside the counter flashing and I don't think you will have a listed install that way. The lack of response from Mr. Whillock speaks for its self.
All parts of a 4" B-Vent are 4", and fit perfectly together except the counter flashing, the 5" single wall pipe fits over the 4" B-Vent pipe and collar, then is covered with the umbrella of the 4" cap.
awesome job the third layer of flashing was that made for you or did ecco supply it?
Thanks for watching and thanks for your comment. The top layer is fabricated from a single wall pipe, available at quality AC suppliers. Solder the joint!
Why don’t they make a B vent as one continuous piece instead of needing the storm collar? Sorry I’m a new home owner and this is all new to me.
My Amerivent Type B furnace vent pipe leaks from the INSIDE, dripping from a seam in the sheet-metal elbow below the roof vent. The outside of the pipe in the attic is dry. The water is definitely coming from INSIDE the vent pipe, at one of the seams in the sheet-metal elbow, as though the cap itself (outdoors, above) is leaking. The rain water then drips out of a ceiling-mount light fixture inside the house, which is how I noticed the leak. I finally hung a bucket just below the leaking elbow in the attic as a band-aid temporary fix. I'd like to know if I need to replace the outdoor vent cap itself or what? This is a fairly new house, and has always had this problem. No the flashing is not leaking at all - the water is coming from inside the pipe. My worry now is corrosion of the vent pipe and maybe the furnace itself, considering that much more water may be flowing past the elbow where we see it dripping from, right into the furnace. Any suggestions?
Your thinking is spot on! Is there a chance you have a picture of the cap handy? Also, a photo from a distance and if you don't mind, home address, so I can Google to see. Please use our website to send an inquiry. www.exteriorsbygarywhillock.com Nearly every page has a request form at the bottom. GW
Where can I buy this roof vent system Are they parts sold separately or is it a kit Is Ecco the manufacturer? Located in Virginia Thxs
eccomfg.com/product-page-type-...
I've never seen it done like that with 2 roof jacks. Makes sense though.
Curious as to why you didnt extend the water shield down further so that it was over the top edge of a shingle so that if water did get to it, it would shed over a shingle and not under it. Am I overthinking this?
Good question. Time reveals, empirical evidence clearly shows that having two layers of protection is better than one. Mixing, as so many do, the underlayment and the shingles, creates the opportunity for flaws, confused installs. Keep it clean and simple, a water-tight underlayment and a water-tight shingles system. One example, what happens if a shingle blows off? What happens if it's the one under your underlayment? Food for thought, thanks for your question! GW
Haha very professional all the way up and till the end lol
It's duel wall pipe, it don't get very hot...
Some say overkill. But if it works. Call it what you want. I never understood the caulking around the weather cap for the flashing. It'll wear off eventually. Caulking doesn't look professionally on the outside. I live in the Midwest, so we go from hot, cold, to artic. So that caulking I'm sure would age and wear off
Could you provide links to the materials you used in this video?
He just TOLD YOU what they used,
Where to buy ?
The double boot seems unnecessary
thx
You are welcome! Thanks for watching my vids
Over kill