It's also important to make sure your printer is even compatible with aftermarket empty cartridges. The manufacturers these days are making it really difficult to put in third party ink. First they put chips in the cartridges, so you've got to buy a chip re-setter, then they make the chips non-re-settable, so somebody comes out with replacement chips. It's like an arms race. They've got to make that money somehow🤣 I think, in the future, it's going to get very difficult to load off-the-shelf printers with all-black systems, or sublimation dyes.
Haha wow that’s so good to know. I don’t know why someone hasn’t made a printer specifically for the screen print industry yet. Or maybe there is and I don’t know about it.
@@startupscreenprintingthey have many years ago and they were laser printers with a very expensive print head, oyo, xante just to make a few. The printer that started the downfall of the laser printers was the Epson 3000 inkjet printer which printed a 17 x 22 inch film then it's baby brother the Epson 1520 which printed 13x19 I had both back in the day still have two old 3000's very good printers. I now use the 1430 because of RIP software compatibility and upgrades from win XP to 10
I used to make rubberstamps with the photomasking on uv resin method before moving to laser. The negative we use is created by printing out a normal image of the stamps from a laser printer, the printer would have to be an HP monochrome model for best results. Then we would sandwich it to a piece of black thermal wax film and passing them under a really hot pouch laminator. The result is a crystal clear negative with almost 100% opaque background. I believe this wax film works in the same way as one of those reflective foils you use to highlight business/greeting cards by passing under hot laminator.
Thank you for teaching chossing a right film compatiable for laser vs inkjet printer. Also explanation on toner enhancement if a film prints on laser printer.
For a Cheap Home Printer. Could some one try an Experiment to Thicken the line Width of some basic art and Under expose like he Suggests; to see if a thicker Line compensates for the light bleed under cutting on the edges of Positive. Just curious to see what could work. But Now I think I may Buy into a Laser Engraver to expose screens.
This is crazy... well the fact that the 1430 is 2300 bucks on amazon (11/14/2024).... I bought the artisan 1430 brand new back in 2016 or 17 from best buy for $239.99! wish i had bought 100 of them. We use it for sublimation but they have become very popular for sublimation, screen print, DTF and even DTG with conversion kits... GREAT Printers!
Yeah the price is dumb! I love my new $200 printer. Maybe I should buy more of them for when they get discontinued and go up in price like the 1430 haha
Hello! Wanting to confirm that other printer you mentioned you got in the description works just as good as the one on the right in the video. That $250 price tag is perfect.
Yes, it's been working great. Every bit as good as the Artison 1430. Make sure you get a good all-black ink system and RIP software. Just to be sure, this is the one I have ( Canon Pixma IP8720 amzn.to/3PgN60j ) and I have PrintFAB RIP
1:38 - I have a similar wf-3620 printer, have you tried using special UV blocking inks which have a rating of optical density of 4.7-5? These inks should block all UV lights. I plan on buying these inks but since you mentioned you need to use double layer films, that completely defeats the purpose.
@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the reply. I've seen the entire video. I was referring on your experiences based on the older wf-3620 model if you've ever used special UV blocking inks. My assumption is that using UV blocking inks on the wf-3620 should provide a good print without needing to use double layer film, but I just wanted to confirm with your past experiences. I also avoid Canon printers because they use thermal-based print heads, which only work on certain limited inks designed to be used with high temperatures. Piezoelectric print heads are the best in using multiple range of inks and it is patented by Epson. I'll take a look on your Canon video.
I see, yeah I do use the UV dye in my current printer and it's a great choice for anyone printing films for screen printing. The thing to look out for is if there are cartridges available for your printer. For screen printing, Epson and Canon are the printers that most often have the cartridges available. It's known as an "All black ink conversion" and then you'd use whatever dye option is meant for those cartridges and printer. For example, some dyes only work in canon or epson and not both. For my current printer, I purchased new refillable cartridges from filmdirectonline.com along with a black dye meant for canon printers and it's working very, very well. The dye has the UV blocking properties and when combined with a good software RIP, you get a really dense, opaque black print that works great for exposing screens. I only showed the WF printer in this video to inform people that they "could" start with just any inkjet printer they have so that beginners can be encouraged to give it a try, but as mentioned in the video i warned them that if the design has large areas of ink, that it can be a bit transparent and cause issues during exposure, hence double-layering the film, but even that presents it's own issues. At this time, the WF printer i used to use, and many others like it, do not have black ink conversion kits available, so the best option is to upgrade to a new printer that does have a kit available and make that swap from day 1. The Epson 1430 printer shown in this video has long been the standard for film printers for screen printers, but since it's no longer made it's difficult to find them and to get parts. I also found that the dye would clog the print heads way more often in the Epson printer than with my new canon printer, so I'm a canon fan for now. Plus, at the low price tag of these canon printers, one could very easily have a backup printer (most shops do) ready for if/when there are print head issues.
hello ... I wanna ask you two questions and i hope that you can help me ... 1..In what thickness we use waterproof film and what is the effect if we change thickness ... 2.. When I print on waterproof film it does not completely absorb the ink . but some of ink flows on it ... and knowing that i am choosing the option ( standard ink ) not more ink or less .
I’m not sure on thickness I just get the premium film from Ryonet. Thickness shouldn’t have a negative effect though. And there’s only one side that’s printable so make sure you’re printing the correct side of the film. The printable side is sticky if you wet your finger it will stick to that side then you make sure that side is pointing up when you put it in the printer.
@@tammamalhasan9555 It's probably fine. I've seen that one used for DTF printing, too. I'd say just see if you can find an all-black ink conversion kit for it cause that will help a ton to have all black UV blocking ink.
Great info! I used the 1430/AccuRip before, but I shut my operation down a few years ago. I'm getting back into it and I am curious as to what ink kit (ink cartridges) you used for the Canon printer. Also, how well does PrintFab work with halftones for simulated process or 4 color process? TIA
Hi Jesse, Thank you for what you're doing here. It's been a year since this was posted. Do you still recommend the Epson 1430 printer? There are a few on eBay under $500 and replacement print heads are available new. Or, is there a more modern machine that you can steer me to? I would love to hear your thoughts.
Actually I’ve swapped to this printer: amzn.to/3WV0cEG The 1430 kept clogging with the BlackMax ink and I finally wasn’t able to fix it. This new printer is way more affordable and readily available so if it breaks I can replace it faster. For ink, I have surprisingly gotten better results lately with a different ink kit from Film Direct: filmdirectonline.com/copy-of-canon-ix6800-ix6820-completely-black-ink-kit-pgi-250-cli-251-chipset-1/ It doesn’t seem to dry/clog the heads like the Blackmax did and it creates a really dark print. I’ve been able to increase exposure times with this ink and I love it so far.
Hello, I have a quick question. Is it possible to use alternative rip software with the Blackmax Refillable Master Ink Kit? The website specifies that it must be used with AccuRIP Software. Thank you.
Thank you very much. I've been utilizing the Epson 1430 for a few years without any rip software. I was concerned that other rip software might not be compatible with that ink system. I wasn't particularly keen on the AccuRIP 1-Year License for $199.@@startupscreenprinting
I’m not seeing any all black ink kits available for that printer so I would recommend not using it. I always check filmdirectonline.com and solutionsforscreenprinters.com to see if they have ink kits for the printer I’m considering. If you do want to use that L8050 then it will “work” but you aren’t going to get great films and you will have issues during exposure. The ink just isn’t opaque enough and it doesn’t block UV. At a minimum, I’d say if you print in black be sure to use a rich black (check my latest shorts) so that it’s printing with more just the black ink cartridge
hi! I would really appreciate if you can help me with these two questions I have : 1.Do you think this printer:EPSON STYLUS SX115 can work with this type of printing? 2.In case yes, what paper should I buy, and what are the criters of the black ink I have to buy?
hi there! you could certainly use that printer to print films but i'm not sure if there's an all-black ink kit for it. You can look at the kit I use here: solutionsforscreenprinters.com/product/all-black-ink/ maybe contact them and ask about your specific printer model. If no kit exists for it, you can still just print a "full black" by selecting 100% on all 4 colors (CMYK) instead of just printing the black ink. This will help get you a darker image on the transparency but it's still not as good as the UV-blocking all-black ink kits. You will also need rip software like Accu-RIP, PrintFab, or Image R.E.D.. You don't HAVE to have the rip software if you do the output yourself within illustrator or whatever program you use (watch my separations video) but the rip is usually required to print with the all-black ink kits. For film, I use the Baselayr film from Ryonet: ssp.ink/ryonet and search film.
it's not true. The shop i managed years ago had a laser printer and it's all we used. The benefit is you don't need RIP software as RIP is built into laser printers. One of the reasons most shops use inkjet is because laser toner is more expensive than ink. But the biggest reason is because laser printers struggle to get a really dark film so you typically have to spray the printed film with toner enhancer in order to darken the print before you use it to expose a screen. So it adds a step to the process. Plus it's not UV blocking like the black dye kits you can get for inkjet printers. So the quick answer is yes you can use a laser printer, i did for years. But an inkjet will often get better results and is a better investment.
Hi there! Thanks for your video!! I am just wondering if I can use epson xp-15000 instead of epson 1430. People said that xp-15000 is the replace of 1430
You probably can. Just be sure you can get all-black ink kits for it and make sure your rip software works with that printer. I just switched to the Canon IP8720 and love it so far: amzn.to/3TNtZOq
I’m really struggling to choose I saw cheap used epson p6000 and I don’t know if it do film positive i know it’s big but i want to do all over print I need help
All over print can be difficult with screen printing since printing over seams isn’t ideal. Most often sublimation is best for all-over printing. I don’t have any experience with the larger film printers.
@@startupscreenprinting thank you for answering me 🙏 what about the p6000 can I make it print on film positive so if I change the cartridge and add DMAX it’s okay to print like the T3270 Epson? Thanks again for answering my questions 🤝
Hi mate, what will be the best COMMERCIAL INKJET PRINTING for Tissue paper (like burger warping paper), can you please give me a company name to search for ? i am looking for manufacture to print between 500-10,000 sheets per job.
Honestly I'm not really sure. That sounds like something you might need to speak to an actual printing press about. For all of my paper printing (business cards, posters, etc.) I use a company called 4Over.
Great question, Matthew. So RIP software will allow inkjet printers to do halftones and color separations for you. All of it can be done manually and I did for the first 3-4 years until I got the Epson 1430. It's just a time saver, really, except for it's ability to tell the printer to use every cartridge as black ink. I'll try to do a video on it soon so I can share more details. All that to say it's not something you should feel required to get when you're getting started. You can get it a few years in and be totally fine. Most laser printers actually have the ability to do RIP built in.
@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the response, that makes a lot of sense. I'm just screen printing for my own clothing brand, so have yet to do any halftones, but I would love if my printer would just print with black ink. Its such an annoyance.
True rip software, compatible with your printer, can (in addition to creating halftones) manipulate how much ink the print head spits out, increasing ink density if you want. I've seen some software lately that claims to be rip, but is compatible with every model of printer. If it claims to do that, it's probably not rip. True rip is essentially a 3rd party driver for your printer, so the manufacturer had to buy every printer on their compatibility list, reverse engineer the driver to figure out how to control the print heads directly, that's why a "universal" rip can't really be rip. It may create halftones (but a lot of software can already do that), but cannot manipulate the print heads on every existing model of inkjet printer, there's just too many of them. So, buyer beware. In my opinion the increase in ink density is more important than halftone creation.
Yeah and there are ways to get it to print all colors so it’s a deeper black, but it’s just hard to get full opacity without a black dye cartridge. You can try to print two of the same and tape them over each other. Sometimes that helps if it’s not too detailed of a design. Or I’ve taken a marker and colored over it to make it darker before.
You can, but without a rip you wouldn't be able to convert opacity settings to halftones, you'd have to create the halftones first, then print. You also wouldn't be able to take advantage of any all-black ink cartridges if you have those as they typically require a rip in order to tell the printer to print correctly with all black.
@startupscreenprinting my Epson SC-P400 does not recognize new ink cartridges. I've done all I can do to rectify the issue to no avail. Very frustrating.
Thanks for the feedback! The video is only 20 minutes so I guess that's better than 30 and means I'm almost to 10 😉 Thanks for watching the whole thing even if only half of it wasn't interesting for you 😎
It's also important to make sure your printer is even compatible with aftermarket empty cartridges. The manufacturers these days are making it really difficult to put in third party ink. First they put chips in the cartridges, so you've got to buy a chip re-setter, then they make the chips non-re-settable, so somebody comes out with replacement chips. It's like an arms race. They've got to make that money somehow🤣 I think, in the future, it's going to get very difficult to load off-the-shelf printers with all-black systems, or sublimation dyes.
Haha wow that’s so good to know. I don’t know why someone hasn’t made a printer specifically for the screen print industry yet. Or maybe there is and I don’t know about it.
@@startupscreenprintingthey have many years ago and they were laser printers with a very expensive print head, oyo, xante just to make a few. The printer that started the downfall of the laser printers was the Epson 3000 inkjet printer which printed a 17 x 22 inch film then it's baby brother the Epson 1520 which printed 13x19 I had both back in the day still have two old 3000's very good printers. I now use the 1430 because of RIP software compatibility and upgrades from win XP to 10
I used to make rubberstamps with the photomasking on uv resin method before moving to laser. The negative we use is created by printing out a normal image of the stamps from a laser printer, the printer would have to be an HP monochrome model for best results. Then we would sandwich it to a piece of black thermal wax film and passing them under a really hot pouch laminator. The result is a crystal clear negative with almost 100% opaque background. I believe this wax film works in the same way as one of those reflective foils you use to highlight business/greeting cards by passing under hot laminator.
that sounds like a super cool process!
What is the process called?
Thank you for teaching chossing a right film compatiable for laser vs inkjet printer. Also explanation on toner enhancement if a film prints on laser printer.
happy to help!
For a Cheap Home Printer. Could some one try an Experiment to Thicken the line Width of some basic art and Under expose like he Suggests; to see if a thicker Line compensates for the light bleed under cutting on the edges of Positive. Just curious to see what could work. But Now I think I may Buy into a Laser Engraver to expose screens.
By laser engraver I assume you mean LTS? If only we could all afford LTS haha
This is crazy... well the fact that the 1430 is 2300 bucks on amazon (11/14/2024).... I bought the artisan 1430 brand new back in 2016 or 17 from best buy for $239.99! wish i had bought 100 of them. We use it for sublimation but they have become very popular for sublimation, screen print, DTF and even DTG with conversion kits... GREAT Printers!
Yeah the price is dumb! I love my new $200 printer. Maybe I should buy more of them for when they get discontinued and go up in price like the 1430 haha
Hello!
Wanting to confirm that other printer you mentioned you got in the description works just as good as the one on the right in the video. That $250 price tag is perfect.
Yes, it's been working great. Every bit as good as the Artison 1430. Make sure you get a good all-black ink system and RIP software. Just to be sure, this is the one I have ( Canon Pixma IP8720 amzn.to/3PgN60j ) and I have PrintFAB RIP
great knowledge and easy to understand - thank you
Thanks!
1:38 - I have a similar wf-3620 printer, have you tried using special UV blocking inks which have a rating of optical density of 4.7-5? These inks should block all UV lights. I plan on buying these inks but since you mentioned you need to use double layer films, that completely defeats the purpose.
If you watched the full video you’ll see I don’t use this printer anymore. I now use a canon ip8720 with all black uv dye cartridges.
@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the reply. I've seen the entire video. I was referring on your experiences based on the older wf-3620 model if you've ever used special UV blocking inks. My assumption is that using UV blocking inks on the wf-3620 should provide a good print without needing to use double layer film, but I just wanted to confirm with your past experiences. I also avoid Canon printers because they use thermal-based print heads, which only work on certain limited inks designed to be used with high temperatures. Piezoelectric print heads are the best in using multiple range of inks and it is patented by Epson. I'll take a look on your Canon video.
I see, yeah I do use the UV dye in my current printer and it's a great choice for anyone printing films for screen printing. The thing to look out for is if there are cartridges available for your printer. For screen printing, Epson and Canon are the printers that most often have the cartridges available. It's known as an "All black ink conversion" and then you'd use whatever dye option is meant for those cartridges and printer. For example, some dyes only work in canon or epson and not both. For my current printer, I purchased new refillable cartridges from filmdirectonline.com along with a black dye meant for canon printers and it's working very, very well. The dye has the UV blocking properties and when combined with a good software RIP, you get a really dense, opaque black print that works great for exposing screens. I only showed the WF printer in this video to inform people that they "could" start with just any inkjet printer they have so that beginners can be encouraged to give it a try, but as mentioned in the video i warned them that if the design has large areas of ink, that it can be a bit transparent and cause issues during exposure, hence double-layering the film, but even that presents it's own issues. At this time, the WF printer i used to use, and many others like it, do not have black ink conversion kits available, so the best option is to upgrade to a new printer that does have a kit available and make that swap from day 1. The Epson 1430 printer shown in this video has long been the standard for film printers for screen printers, but since it's no longer made it's difficult to find them and to get parts. I also found that the dye would clog the print heads way more often in the Epson printer than with my new canon printer, so I'm a canon fan for now. Plus, at the low price tag of these canon printers, one could very easily have a backup printer (most shops do) ready for if/when there are print head issues.
hello ...
I wanna ask you two questions and i hope that you can help me ...
1..In what thickness we use waterproof film and what is the effect if we change thickness ...
2.. When I print on waterproof film it does not completely absorb the ink . but some of ink flows on it ... and knowing that i am choosing the option ( standard ink ) not more ink or less .
I’m not sure on thickness I just get the premium film from Ryonet. Thickness shouldn’t have a negative effect though. And there’s only one side that’s printable so make sure you’re printing the correct side of the film. The printable side is sticky if you wet your finger it will stick to that side then you make sure that side is pointing up when you put it in the printer.
Thanks alot ... my printer epson l1800 do you think that it's good for this type of printing
@@tammamalhasan9555 It's probably fine. I've seen that one used for DTF printing, too. I'd say just see if you can find an all-black ink conversion kit for it cause that will help a ton to have all black UV blocking ink.
Great info! I used the 1430/AccuRip before, but I shut my operation down a few years ago. I'm getting back into it and I am curious as to what ink kit (ink cartridges) you used for the Canon printer. Also, how well does PrintFab work with halftones for simulated process or 4 color process? TIA
I got my cartridges and ink from filmdirect.com and it’s great. And printfab has been great for halftones for me, definitely recommend it.
Thank you for your informal video! - I appreciate it alot!
My pleasure!
Hi Jesse,
Thank you for what you're doing here.
It's been a year since this was posted. Do you still recommend the Epson 1430 printer? There are a few on eBay under $500 and replacement print heads are available new. Or, is there a more modern machine that you can steer me to?
I would love to hear your thoughts.
Actually I’ve swapped to this printer: amzn.to/3WV0cEG
The 1430 kept clogging with the BlackMax ink and I finally wasn’t able to fix it. This new printer is way more affordable and readily available so if it breaks I can replace it faster.
For ink, I have surprisingly gotten better results lately with a different ink kit from Film Direct: filmdirectonline.com/copy-of-canon-ix6800-ix6820-completely-black-ink-kit-pgi-250-cli-251-chipset-1/
It doesn’t seem to dry/clog the heads like the Blackmax did and it creates a really dark print. I’ve been able to increase exposure times with this ink and I love it so far.
Hello, I have a quick question. Is it possible to use alternative rip software with the Blackmax Refillable Master Ink Kit? The website specifies that it must be used with AccuRIP Software. Thank you.
I use it with PrintFab with no issues at all.
Thank you very much. I've been utilizing the Epson 1430 for a few years without any rip software. I was concerned that other rip software might not be compatible with that ink system. I wasn't particularly keen on the AccuRIP 1-Year License for $199.@@startupscreenprinting
Can this printer be used for DTF heat transfers also?
I don’t think so
Hi, Can we use Epson l8050 to print the film positives? is it good enough to print in black?
I’m not seeing any all black ink kits available for that printer so I would recommend not using it. I always check filmdirectonline.com and solutionsforscreenprinters.com to see if they have ink kits for the printer I’m considering. If you do want to use that L8050 then it will “work” but you aren’t going to get great films and you will have issues during exposure. The ink just isn’t opaque enough and it doesn’t block UV. At a minimum, I’d say if you print in black be sure to use a rich black (check my latest shorts) so that it’s printing with more just the black ink cartridge
hi! I would really appreciate if you can help me with these two questions I have : 1.Do you think this printer:EPSON STYLUS SX115 can work with this type of printing? 2.In case yes, what paper should I buy, and what are the criters of the black ink I have to buy?
hi there! you could certainly use that printer to print films but i'm not sure if there's an all-black ink kit for it. You can look at the kit I use here: solutionsforscreenprinters.com/product/all-black-ink/
maybe contact them and ask about your specific printer model.
If no kit exists for it, you can still just print a "full black" by selecting 100% on all 4 colors (CMYK) instead of just printing the black ink. This will help get you a darker image on the transparency but it's still not as good as the UV-blocking all-black ink kits. You will also need rip software like Accu-RIP, PrintFab, or Image R.E.D.. You don't HAVE to have the rip software if you do the output yourself within illustrator or whatever program you use (watch my separations video) but the rip is usually required to print with the all-black ink kits.
For film, I use the Baselayr film from Ryonet: ssp.ink/ryonet and search film.
It's to my understand that you can't use laser printer. Is this true? Edit: Just saw where you can. Thanks
it's not true. The shop i managed years ago had a laser printer and it's all we used. The benefit is you don't need RIP software as RIP is built into laser printers. One of the reasons most shops use inkjet is because laser toner is more expensive than ink. But the biggest reason is because laser printers struggle to get a really dark film so you typically have to spray the printed film with toner enhancer in order to darken the print before you use it to expose a screen. So it adds a step to the process. Plus it's not UV blocking like the black dye kits you can get for inkjet printers. So the quick answer is yes you can use a laser printer, i did for years. But an inkjet will often get better results and is a better investment.
@@startupscreenprinting Thanks, I did notice you mentioned this at the end of the vidoe. Thank you for your help.
Hi there! Thanks for your video!!
I am just wondering if I can use epson xp-15000 instead of epson 1430. People said that xp-15000 is the replace of 1430
You probably can. Just be sure you can get all-black ink kits for it and make sure your rip software works with that printer. I just switched to the Canon IP8720 and love it so far: amzn.to/3TNtZOq
Thank you so much !! Can I ask what RIP software you currently use?
@user-ox1dv8xh6g I use PrintFab
does the Blackmax only work if i have the Accurip software or can i use it with photoshop?
Any rip software typically works. I use PrintFAB, but you do need rip to tell the printer to use all the black cartridges
thanks I apricate the response @@startupscreenprinting
I’m really struggling to choose I saw cheap used epson p6000 and I don’t know if it do film positive i know it’s big but i want to do all over print I need help
All over print can be difficult with screen printing since printing over seams isn’t ideal. Most often sublimation is best for all-over printing. I don’t have any experience with the larger film printers.
@@startupscreenprinting thank you for answering me 🙏 what about the p6000 can I make it print on film positive so if I change the cartridge and add DMAX it’s okay to print like the T3270 Epson? Thanks again for answering my questions 🤝
@moodea3098 you’d have to check compatibility at solutionsforscreenprinters.com or filmdirect.com
Can I print blue in on film if my black ink head don’t work
Probably won’t work too well. Blue (cyan) is pretty bright and certainly more translucent than black.
Hi mate, what will be the best COMMERCIAL INKJET PRINTING for Tissue paper (like burger warping paper), can you please give me a company name to search for ? i am looking for manufacture to print between 500-10,000 sheets per job.
Honestly I'm not really sure. That sounds like something you might need to speak to an actual printing press about. For all of my paper printing (business cards, posters, etc.) I use a company called 4Over.
Hi we provide you all type of services if you want then contact us
what does a rip software do? for my epson wf7310, I just print it straight from photoshop albeit, I am still quite a newbie.
Great question, Matthew. So RIP software will allow inkjet printers to do halftones and color separations for you. All of it can be done manually and I did for the first 3-4 years until I got the Epson 1430. It's just a time saver, really, except for it's ability to tell the printer to use every cartridge as black ink. I'll try to do a video on it soon so I can share more details. All that to say it's not something you should feel required to get when you're getting started. You can get it a few years in and be totally fine. Most laser printers actually have the ability to do RIP built in.
@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the response, that makes a lot of sense. I'm just screen printing for my own clothing brand, so have yet to do any halftones, but I would love if my printer would just print with black ink. Its such an annoyance.
True rip software, compatible with your printer, can (in addition to creating halftones) manipulate how much ink the print head spits out, increasing ink density if you want. I've seen some software lately that claims to be rip, but is compatible with every model of printer. If it claims to do that, it's probably not rip. True rip is essentially a 3rd party driver for your printer, so the manufacturer had to buy every printer on their compatibility list, reverse engineer the driver to figure out how to control the print heads directly, that's why a "universal" rip can't really be rip. It may create halftones (but a lot of software can already do that), but cannot manipulate the print heads on every existing model of inkjet printer, there's just too many of them. So, buyer beware. In my opinion the increase in ink density is more important than halftone creation.
Yeah and there are ways to get it to print all colors so it’s a deeper black, but it’s just hard to get full opacity without a black dye cartridge. You can try to print two of the same and tape them over each other. Sometimes that helps if it’s not too detailed of a design. Or I’ve taken a marker and colored over it to make it darker before.
Totally agree the ink density is most important. And wow thanks for sharing all that great info too!!! Super helpful to know all that.
So I can't just print from procreate?
You can, but without a rip you wouldn't be able to convert opacity settings to halftones, you'd have to create the halftones first, then print. You also wouldn't be able to take advantage of any all-black ink cartridges if you have those as they typically require a rip in order to tell the printer to print correctly with all black.
Is the film is dtf film
Please reply 😭🙏🙏🙏
No it’s film specific for ink jet printers
Can anyone suggest a printer currently in production that I can use?
I currently use the Canon IP8720 and love it ssp.ink/ip8720
💪thank you!
You bet!
Anyone use the Epson 15000?
Can’t say I’ve ever heard of anyone using it but maybe someone will chime in
@startupscreenprinting my Epson SC-P400 does not recognize new ink cartridges. I've done all I can do to rectify the issue to no avail. Very frustrating.
Man, 30 min of blah blah blah. If you stop repeating yourself you can cut this down to 10 interesting min.
Thanks for the feedback! The video is only 20 minutes so I guess that's better than 30 and means I'm almost to 10 😉 Thanks for watching the whole thing even if only half of it wasn't interesting for you 😎
All this guy did was talk ?
Most effective communication method I’ve found so far 🤔🤣