Poor HOWA, always getting left out! I use McGowen barrels on my Howa 1500 with this style of installation. It is called the HOWAGE, mimicking the "Savage" style of barrel nut. Why is it that all these manufacturers put so much emphasis on the Remington but so little on other brands? I get the 700 is very common, and a go to for builds, but it is time for more support of other brands.
You realise the installation is the same right? He points out that it is the same for all using a barrel nut like this why are you assuming the howa is some how excluded from "all other rifles"
@@jbpooh All the while, Japanese are the last to go woke. Haven't seen any Toyota's marketed with rainbows. Howa is a solid company with a proven track record for quality and precision. I'll pit my homemade Howa build against a Remington any day of the week.
you screw the barrel in touch off, leave barrel where it is bolt down on the go, then a little, forget the nogo ... your good on go, I chk my brass compared to go gauge I like it tight on go stops brass stretch then bump at .001 or .002, my brass last long time if I don't run it hot then I just loose primer pockets
when you have the barrel wrench, any other type of crows foot wrench it is imperative that you must do the calculation to adjust the required torque because you will get a false torque. 90 degrees of deflection from the center of the torque wrench ( 1/4,3/8,1/2 dr.) will negate the calculation required as the deflection does not magnify/intensify the desired torque resulting in an over torqued nut. I will furnish said information if desired. I hope this helps all concerned
Actually what bothers me even more fundamentally is that Caleb seems to tighten the barrel while the go-gauge is still in the chamber. Either he runs the risk of damaging the chamber with the gauge or vice versa. One of the two will give way eventually, although that would probably require a higher torque. I would just avoid it althogether because both the gauge and the barrel are expensive parts and taking the gauge out and reinserting after the torquing will not cost a lot of time.
@@123nicefellow123 agreed. I would hope he had realized the errors made, and a possible video remake would be in order showing best shop practices for those who are inexperienced. I mean this with the utmost respect for all concerned.
@@dougmate2378 I appreciate the concern, If I had not backed the barrel off the gauge before torquing this would indeed be a possibility on higher torque barrels. I am using very little torque comparatively to other bolt action rifles and providing a gap off the gauge.
You essentially lengthened your torque wrench and changed your torque value. Your wrench should have been set to 90 degrees or perpendicular to what you were torquing.
Actually no, the torque is measured at the point where it plugs into the barrel wrench. I get more leverage, but it will always read at that joint, not the leverage.
you only need 40 or 50 lbs you take a chance of galling when you start going high with torque, I change out barrels all the time you don't need 90lbs of torque, benchresters hand tighten then a bit, you ruin a action then ur fd
@@CalebSavant Incorrect,the tool adds a couple of inches to the length, the torque wrench will not be accurate. Torque is by definition Force X Length..Wrench should be 90 degs to the wrench.
One question I habe had on this type of barrel instalation is whither the receiver most idealy should be trued or blueprinted in order to get the best acuracy. I would be interested in reading feedback on this.
Witness mark the recoil lug position before barrel removal otherwise center line the bottom of the action & center line the recoil lug then line them up.
one tip on torque wrench etticate, this is a PRECISE instrument, so PUT IT AWAY in the storage case!!!, as soon as you are finished, and for this guage style NEVER rest it on the cover glass, you could break it, and bend the indicating needle inside!!; and yes, some of the other comments are right, you MUST ADD the extension factor of this 'adaptor' to determine the SET torque on the wrench scale, when given the REQUIRED torque from the manufacturer, it varies due to mechanical advantage, the indicator is ONLY calibrated for an average joe with his hands on the knurled section of the handle, AND a plain socket on the end of a bolts' head!- if you need a lead-pipe or cheater bar, or an attachment, as you have here,you MUST account for this difference in leverage in OBTAINED torque (the force on the fastener itself, not the read torque on the instrument), then you are doing the job in the intention the manufacturer had, when designing the assembly method.
What's misleading? Barrel changes on a Savage action is very simple. I've met "old gunsmiths" that I was surprised were still in business because of lack of knowledge and spewing misinformation because of pure stubbornness.
@@kassilewis5511 agreed. When I was a 20 year old kid an older guy I worked for told me this. Only a guy who’s always learning is gaining experience. The guy who decides he’s a know it all stops learning. So you either have 20 years of experience OR you have one year of experience 20 times! Very big difference. I’m guessing Mr Stubborn has a year of experience 20 times.
@@mrjeffjob Exactly. I can't stand it when I hear "I been doin this for XX years and this is how I always do it!". That is pretty much the giveaway of that 20x 1 year experience and stubbornness trumps logical thinking in their mind simply so they don't have to admit they are wrong and been doing wrong for those XX years.
@@FC2ESWS Some people do this to add clearance over absolute minimum headspace and set at a mid range between go and No go. Personally, I have always touched up tightly to the gauge, took the gauge out and tightened down there. Any slack between the barrel and reciever threads gets taken up when the nut is torqued adding some degree of clearance by itself so backing off isn't necessary in my opinion. If you are looking for absolute minimum turn in to touch the gauge, remove the gauge and go a very small amount further in, tighten and check. Too tight, loosen back up and try again.
Well done. Excellent instructional video
Anyone else impressed how perfect my mans hair is. That took some effffffoooort.
He looks like Hank Williams.
I imagine the nut hair is impeccable....
Was top notch. Lol
Poor HOWA, always getting left out! I use McGowen barrels on my Howa 1500 with this style of installation. It is called the HOWAGE, mimicking the "Savage" style of barrel nut. Why is it that all these manufacturers put so much emphasis on the Remington but so little on other brands? I get the 700 is very common, and a go to for builds, but it is time for more support of other brands.
You realise the installation is the same right? He points out that it is the same for all using a barrel nut like this why are you assuming the howa is some how excluded from "all other rifles"
thats funny cause I just put a mcgowan on my howa 1500 bout 3 months ago
Well Howa is a Japanese company so it needs to be left out! American made or bust!
@@jbpooh All the while, Japanese are the last to go woke. Haven't seen any Toyota's marketed with rainbows. Howa is a solid company with a proven track record for quality and precision. I'll pit my homemade Howa build against a Remington any day of the week.
@@ricksters11 Japanese are the last to go woke, while they run around like "furries"? You are pretty "woke" acting yourself.
That hair!!! It's amazing. Was Caleb's hair assembled in a Jig? Cause every strained is in place.
More great info thanks
You can't send the barrels to US. Right?
Why would you remove the recoil plug if it will be installed under regular operations? If the extra material impacts one, it would impact the other
I will never use this quick tip video for myself-only with the right info,how far the barrel must be backed off after touching the GO gauge....
you screw the barrel in touch off, leave barrel where it is bolt down on the go, then a little, forget the nogo ... your good on go, I chk my brass compared to go gauge I like it tight on go stops brass stretch then bump at .001 or .002, my brass last long time if I don't run it hot then I just loose primer pockets
@ 2:03 why did you back off just a bit? any special reason behind that?
For the average gun enthusiast, does a prefit barrel require any gunsmithing or the action being sent to the barrel maker?
No. If you buy a quality barrel and follow the instructions in this video you should be good to go.
why was my comment erased? just asked about how to align the front sight to
the receiver?
savage long action bolt action rifle whats the biggest shell can be fireed threw it
Anything that is 3.34 inches in length. I think the 458 win mag is the "biggest" you can put in it (if you have the magnum bolt face)
Torque wrench procedure is wrong. Torque wrench should be at 90 degrees. You just added a shit ton of torque!!!
$easy button$
when you have the barrel wrench, any other type of crows foot wrench it is imperative that you must do the calculation to adjust the required torque because you will get a false torque. 90 degrees of deflection from the center of the torque wrench ( 1/4,3/8,1/2 dr.) will negate the calculation required as the deflection does not magnify/intensify the desired torque resulting in an over torqued nut. I will furnish said information if desired. I hope this helps all concerned
Actually what bothers me even more fundamentally is that Caleb seems to tighten the barrel while the go-gauge is still in the chamber. Either he runs the risk of damaging the chamber with the gauge or vice versa. One of the two will give way eventually, although that would probably require a higher torque. I would just avoid it althogether because both the gauge and the barrel are expensive parts and taking the gauge out and reinserting after the torquing will not cost a lot of time.
@@123nicefellow123 agreed. I would hope he had realized the errors made, and a possible video remake would be in order showing best shop practices for those who are inexperienced. I mean this with the utmost respect for all concerned.
@@dougmate2378 I appreciate the concern, If I had not backed the barrel off the gauge before torquing this would indeed be a possibility on higher torque barrels. I am using very little torque comparatively to other bolt action rifles and providing a gap off the gauge.
The calculation is: true torque = (actual torque applied X length of two wrench)/ extension length
Or using the TQ adapter at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench negates the need for the conversion.
If I get go no go gauges, I can take my barrel off my remington 700 and replace it
Torque wrench prolly should be at 90 degs to the wrench. So the reading stays accurate..
I was thinking the same thing. But I was wondering if he was using a special kind of torque wrench or something. He is a professional ya know.
Now you just need a easy way to remove the old barrel.
Pipe wrench and vise
@@jeremys8360 I don’t think that will work, too much torque
@@johnk4588 it should work as long as you don't care about wrecking the old Barrel
@@obummer14-4 Or twisting the action.....
Your torque trench should be 90 degree from your barrel but wrench
Do you need to put anti seize if so what is best pls
I just use a light coat of basic gun grease if the steel is dry. The Brownells Action Lube is great but you can use anything of that sort.
Thanks buddy
Regular gun grease or auto grease will work, however, usually an anti seize is recommended (like loctite copper anti seize).
Matt Lemmon thanks
I use a light coat nickel anti-sieze.
Do do check the gap specs with a piece of lead shot?
You essentially lengthened your torque wrench and changed your torque value. Your wrench should have been set to 90 degrees or perpendicular to what you were torquing.
Actually no, the torque is measured at the point where it plugs into the barrel wrench. I get more leverage, but it will always read at that joint, not the leverage.
I assemble by feel. And everything works fine. But really for hunting things should be reliable. I guess.
you only need 40 or 50 lbs you take a chance of galling when you start going high with torque, I change out barrels all the time you don't need 90lbs of torque, benchresters hand tighten then a bit, you ruin a action then ur fd
@@CalebSavant Incorrect,the tool adds a couple of inches to the length, the torque wrench will not be accurate. Torque is by definition Force X Length..Wrench should be 90 degs to the wrench.
@@CalebSavant sorry but that is incorrect wrench should be 90 degrees off the wrench to not increase length.
Great barrels 👍👍
One question I habe had on this type of barrel instalation is whither the receiver most idealy should be trued or blueprinted in order to get the best acuracy. I would be interested in reading feedback on this.
Oh, hi there, Grover
You used the phrase My very often, instead of the! It shows you're very possessive!
I like the quick tip video, but this one as serious fails.
As mentioned, when you use an extension, you have to allow 90° to the torque wrench, otherwise you’re adding length to the torque reading
What do you use to align the recoil lug on a Remington 700?
Witness mark the recoil lug position before barrel removal otherwise center line the bottom of the action & center line the recoil lug then line them up.
There is a jig available that aligns the lug as well.
@@dustyfarmer yep best to use a Jig
As you tighten it up it won't stay on that stupid ass witness mark
one tip on torque wrench etticate, this is a PRECISE instrument, so PUT IT AWAY in the storage case!!!, as soon as you are finished, and for this guage style NEVER rest it on the cover glass, you could break it, and bend the indicating needle inside!!; and yes, some of the other comments are right, you MUST ADD the extension factor of this 'adaptor' to determine the SET torque on the wrench scale, when given the REQUIRED torque from the manufacturer, it varies due to mechanical advantage, the indicator is ONLY calibrated for an average joe with his hands on the knurled section of the handle, AND a plain socket on the end of a bolts' head!- if you need a lead-pipe or cheater bar, or an attachment, as you have here,you MUST account for this difference in leverage in OBTAINED torque (the force on the fastener itself, not the read torque on the instrument), then you are doing the job in the intention the manufacturer had, when designing the assembly method.
I'd rather have an old gun smith show me this. Than some green as fuck kid. Lot of misleading comments.
What's misleading? Barrel changes on a Savage action is very simple. I've met "old gunsmiths" that I was surprised were still in business because of lack of knowledge and spewing misinformation because of pure stubbornness.
@@kassilewis5511 agreed. When I was a 20 year old kid an older guy I worked for told me this. Only a guy who’s always learning is gaining experience. The guy who decides he’s a know it all stops learning. So you either have 20 years of experience OR you have one year of experience 20 times! Very big difference. I’m guessing Mr Stubborn has a year of experience 20 times.
@@mrjeffjob Exactly. I can't stand it when I hear "I been doin this for XX years and this is how I always do it!". That is pretty much the giveaway of that 20x 1 year experience and stubbornness trumps logical thinking in their mind simply so they don't have to admit they are wrong and been doing wrong for those XX years.
Why did he screw it in to touch the go gauge, then back it off a little bit?
@@FC2ESWS Some people do this to add clearance over absolute minimum headspace and set at a mid range between go and No go. Personally, I have always touched up tightly to the gauge, took the gauge out and tightened down there. Any slack between the barrel and reciever threads gets taken up when the nut is torqued adding some degree of clearance by itself so backing off isn't necessary in my opinion. If you are looking for absolute minimum turn in to touch the gauge, remove the gauge and go a very small amount further in, tighten and check. Too tight, loosen back up and try again.