John, great review. Do you recommend this for a rookie with limited Heli experience coming from a 450? I have a Dynam E-razor 450 RTF aluminum head with the mechanical flybar from 2012 that I finally repaired and got back in the air after 10 years. It wasn't bad while I had it in the air the past couple of times, but I literally crashed it for the 3rd (and maybe final) time today! I'm still not used to the throttle for a good hover, but there was wind today. I'm sure I didn't have it all dialed in, but it was pretty responsive. Since it is obsolete, I won't soon find parts for it and I'm down to my last flybar if I decide to fly again. The main gear is worn in 2 spots too, but it still flew. I just got too greedy and there was small wind gusts. I should have quit while I was ahead, but I didn't. Anyway, I've also got the Xk110 micro heli that I fly indoors and I love that as well. I want something that is CP, but I'm clearly not ready for 3D. I just want to fly without worrying too much about the stakes of crashing, and I am not a bad quacopter pilot. Maybe I should embrace the new era of electronics assisted flybarless flight. Will this do or should I look elsewhere?
Thanks for your honest review. I love my M1 and was thinking going a little bigger but still sub250g for the regulations. This was the contender, because M2 is just slightly above 250g. I guess I'll stick to the M1.
@Lindrud Trucking LLC. Depends on the county's specific regulations, but most are all inclusive meaning all RPAS (remote piloted aerial systems) fall into regulation regardless of LOS or FPV. Up here in Canada all under 250g RPAS are exempt, or if you belong to MAAC (Model Aeronautics Association of Canada) and fly out of a MAAC approved flying site. However, MAAC won't allow FPV flight without a spotter which is again fairly standard in many countries.
If you live in the U.S., the FAA regs aren't too bad to deal with. Basically you have to pass a really easy test (TRUST) online, and carry the certificate with you. The test goes over all the salient points of the new regulations, then periodically asks you multiple guess questions as you go. That part of it is all free, and probably worth completing if you ever intend to fly outdoors just to avoid any potential hassles even if you are below the weight limit. If your aircraft is above 250g, you need to register it w/ a $5 fee per vehicle, and mark your registration number somewhere on the outside. If you live in uncontrolled airspace like I do, that's all you basically need to worry about. If you intend to fly in a controlled airspace environment, then you need to get clearance which can be done online in real time for free. Alternately you can fly in an AMA approved site. HOWEVER... In 2023 there is supposed to be a requirement that all drones have a transceiver mounted onboard. Basically so it shows up on any radar in the area. In the real world, if you are flying indoors, on your property, and/or flying anything larger than 100 size class helicopters, I wouldn't worry about it. Even 200 sized helis are small enough you probably won't attract any attention. Larger than that, if you intend to fly outdoors in a public place, then it would be a good idea to register the model. Personally I have very mixed feelings about all of this. On one hand, I think it's classic government overreach and fee grabbing. On the other hand I have known some very irresponsible pilots. One braying jackass I'm thinking about used to like buzzing the Coast Guard tower in our area. I've also watched him crash his plane into the side of an RV, then go over, grab the plane, and run away and pretend nothing happened. Not to mention he got ALL R/C flying banned from quite a number of spots in town because of his antics. It's because of idiots like him that we ended up with these regulations.
@@Reindeer911 Nice to know the US regulations for interest sake. In europe we still have to register ourselves as RC pilots and have an insurance, that covers RC models. Its not a big deal. Above 250g you are very limited where to fly. So that really sucks. You cant fly in a park. At least not if it gets a little bigger, noisier and stops looking like a childs toy. I guess the M1 would be on the limit already. If there is no complaint, youre good. The law says above 250g you will need remote ID soon from 2023 and are generally not allowed to fly near any uninvolved pedestrians. Thats all law theory and practically nearly impossible. That only leaves you an RC club to fly at. Unless you really have a good spot in a offside rural area.
Thanks for the cool review! I just about sprung for one, but after your further thoughts and re-watching your OMP vids, I now have a purple OMP M2 V2 on the way!!! Just can't wait till the time I can do them justice.
Another wonderful review John. Great information as always! Take it easy on those Tail Booms, I know you have been hitting the Gym, I don't want to see you breaking anything John. 😂👍
How hilarious funny, loved the review here, hit the link to buy one, have a lovely message flash up on a screen stating "no shipping to the UK" how lovely to be so exclusive excluded! Will ship anywhere on the planet except Great Britain. Well thank you, I shall take my business else where then.
@@Rchelicopterfun I just do not understand why they will not ship to the UK? We are no different to any other independent Country in the world. A real shame.
@tetherracer1 - you should ask this question direct to BG - I don't know their shipping policy. My best guess would be since you have a BG warehouse in the UK (we don't here in Canada), they will only ship stuff like this with LiPo's (dangerous goods) direct from the UK warehouse once stock levels have improved. In short, it most likely has more to due with LiPo shipping regulations in your country along with the world wide shortage of almost everything right now than it has to do with BG's shipping policy to the UK from the CN warehouse, but again - best to ask them. 🙂
Thanks again John for an excellent review. I just got this little guy today (my Bday nice happenstance). What you recommend in terms of settings to tame her down. Really don’t want to break this before even really enjoying it. I’ve heard conflicting things but I’ve got my throttle curve at set at a relatively consistent rpm from 0 to 60 ish. Not sure if that’s better than a linear curve but I’m hoping for a stable hover where the throttle doesn’t shoot it up and down. I’ve got low rates set a 50 and an expo of positive 25. As far as pitch, I tried to set it without too much negative so it won’t slam into the ground so no lower than 40. I heard you mention running at less than full power? Not sure what that entails. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve, Happy B-Day 🙂 I cover correct setup practices for any CP heli based on flying style in my Setup & Tips eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html You want consistent head speed with any CP heli, meaning more or less flat line throttle curves or at least shallow ones - but certainly not high or full power with normal/gentle type flying. If you are just learning, no negative collective at all - a little positive even and not maximum collective either. For normal/scale flying perhaps -3 to +10 at most; all explained in detail in the setup ebook. Your DR is a good starting point for normal/gentle flying, I personally wouldn't use any +EXPO with that much DR reduction - but that is entirely up to the individual how they want cyclic and tail response.
Good review John. I've been tempted by the M1 or this but the M2s get so small quickly and I don't like flying too close. I'm thinking of going bigger, maybe the OMP M5 if it's affordable or the 380 buddy.
@@Rchelicopterfun I would prefer an m3 or m4 to be honest. I can get away with park flying my M2 in London but anything bigger and louder than an m3 would draw too much attention... We'll see though 😏
i always wonder how people can fly like that while i'm already glad that i can catch my nano s3 from crashing into the trees 30m away without having to use the Panic! button
You made a comment about liking DFC for small helos, not for large ones. I might have missed it in an earlier videos, but could you elaborate on why? Pros / cons? Thanks John.
Hi Franklin. I cover the DFC topic, pros & cons, small vs large heli advantages in detail on my website on the DFC page. Here's the link: www.rchelicopterfun.com/DFC.html That should answer all your questions about it, but if not, contact me through my site. 🙂
Not enough rotor area on these little ones. The 200 size & up direct drive ones will do it, but it's hard; just so little rotor area and rotational mass. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the machine, the easier it is to auto.
Wait, so the USB charger charged each cell to 4.22, 4.23, and 4.23 and you said they were way overcharged and the supplied charger was no good. Then later in the video you said you were ready to go and showed that they were all charged to 4.20. I know charging levels are important for these batteries but is 0.03 volts per cell on a 3 cell battery truly way overcharged? I'm still newer to the hobby and have a lot left to learn so I was just curious if that small of a difference is something I need to be focusing on. Great video and really informative, thanks!
Normal chemistry (not HV) LiPo cells are extremely sensitive to over-charging; it's not as bad as over-discharging of course, but it has significant impact. Some won't even charge to 4.20 anymore and set their termination voltage lower. Personally, on my large costly packs I usually set termination at 4.18, on these small low cost packs, I don't really care. 4.23V termination won't be halving the life of the battery of course, but it's damaging the cell, no question. Also depends on cell quality and many other factors such as pack temperature, how long the cells sit at the 4.20V 100% charged state and the amount of internal resistance of the cell, both new and as they age. Anyway, anything over 4.20 even by 100's of a volt should be avoided for maximum LiPo cell life. I cover this in more detail on my LiPo articles on my website. This page is the hub for all the LiPo help articles: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html Charging specifics are covered on this page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/charging-rc-lipo-batteries.html
New flyer here. Meaning I’ve had a coax 3.5 channel heli for a couple months and sooooo ready to fly with banking instead of just straight lines. And I want to advance period. Is this a good beginner? And if I tape it off all properly, can I paint the boom and skids, along with body and not have to worry about screwing up weight distro and flying? I have a little bit of a hard time seeing in some lighting situations and want to make it brighter.
Any collective pitch RC helicopter can be made into a good trainer by fitting a set of training gear and using a tame learning to fly setup. Your setup determines how a collective pitch helicopter behaves from tame to insane. The E150 is no exception to this and can be a great trainer right up to a powerful 3D smacker. As for painting it a different color, I suppose as long as it's not really heavy paint, it won't upset things much, but keep in mind weight is the #1 enemy of any small helicopter.
Unfortunately, I can't recall what size the hex head is on the jesus bolt/shaft bolt; presuming that is what you are referencing since the head doesn't unscrew from the shaft. I also no longer have this heli to check the size of the shaft bolt hex head. I'm guessing it's a 1.5mm hex, but that is just going by my over one year old foggy memory of working on this one.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much for the reply John. I really do appreciate it. The screw I’m referring to can be seen by looking up the rotor headset. You can see it’s threaded at the bottom, but it is not a regular hex screw and I couldn’t for the life of me find out how to unscrew it and I think it would be necessary to remove it to work on the head. If anything it seems slightly Phillips like but the included tools did not seem to fit. Fortunately, I discovered it was the anti-rotation bracket which didn’t necessitate removing the head but I might well have to sonner or later. I’ve got a few of them. Way above my skill level at this point as well in idle up. I hear you about that, it’s crazy powerful. Again, kind of disappointing to have broken the anti-rotation bracket on what I considered a bit of a hard landing on grass. Seems you can barely get away with anything with these things….I know because of the energy released. I guess I was a little late on the throttle cut. Any thoughts would be very appreciated thank you.
John, I bought an E150 and have it bound to my Spectrum DX8. I notice when I flip my gyro switch, the LED on the RX is either solid blue and red or blue with red blinking. In either position , I don't notice any tendency of the swash to self level when I tilt the heli. Am I missing a step? Wish there was an instruction manual. Thanks Bob
Sounds like it's working correctly by your description. Blue LED is RF status (radio communication). Solid blue means the RX in the heli is communicating correctly with the TX. Blue should always be solid in other words, no issue there by the sounds of it. Red LED indicates stabilization mode selection type (assigned to channel 5 output); red flashing= normal gyro, red solid=artificial self level. Again, by what I'm reading, yours is working just as it should. I don't think the gyros on the E150 (I don't have mine anymore), are not activated until the ESC gets a power signal, ie. the the rotor spools so gyro mode operation can't be confirmed until rotors have spooled and powered down (I think). In short, just trust the red LED 🙂 I cover LED status (many micro CP helis work the exact same way) on my stabilization video: th-cam.com/video/LouYitd7jak/w-d-xo.html
Did a test flight this morning and it hovers very nicely but wants to come back a litttle. I put in a little forward elevator trim which stabilized it. Flew a few figure 8's no problem. I noticed that its a little tail heavy which is probably the cause for it wanting to come backward. I'll balance it and take out the trim and see how things go. Very nice!
As I said in the video & link to, I use the same OpenTX collective pitch heli template on this heli that I use on all of my birds: th-cam.com/video/XdFOndPG7xo/w-d-xo.html
Hi John, I have three question for you , first question do you know if eachine e180 servo will work with eachine e150, second question eachine E200 will i able to use the tail motor on E150, last question E200 main motor will it fit in E150 , needed parts for my eachine E150 but banggood seams to not stock parts for e150 .
Great review John, I still prefer personally the OMP brand for small helis, are we due soon for another R2 video, this made my mind to order a 3D printer, waiting patiently for the next episode
Can we all please contact all these makers of Heli's and DEMAND more attention being paid to canopy size/position? Its been ridiculous for MANY YEARS now, pretty much ALL manufacturers do it. I have often run my fleet with "a size up" fitted. Example: I run modern high C discharge 4000mAh 6S on my 500's (various makes), and most are now running 550 canopies or have ugly double grommet locations further aft on the canopy. Only a quick EMail, but if LOTS of us do, surely they might listen. Here's my mail......... "Dear Eachine, like the look of the E150, as do five of my flying buddies. NONE of us are going to buy though, as you have made the canopy far too tight a fit. Correct this and we'll surely buy!"
Hi John, Ramy here your new subscriber. Thanks a lot for sharing, I just enjoyed watching your videos. What do you say the m2 vs eachine 150? Thanks in advance.
@Ramy Lems - Pretty different helicopters in size alone. A more direct comparison to the E150 is the OMP M1 which I shared my comparison thoughts on at the end of this video. If you are wanting a better apples to apples comparison to the M2, the Eachine E180 would be much closer. I did a review on it as well, and like every heli, it has pros and cons, but I like the M2 better (both subjectively & objectively) as it suits my flying style better and parts are easier to source here in North America.
Hi John..i bought this model without remote version (my mistake)..and i newbie..so how to control my heli...i need to buy transmitter and receiver?can you suggest that suitable?please...help me..Thank you.
Great vid excellent info and love your voice very easy to listen to! Q i want a heli to move into from cp non 3d i have and been considering the e180 or e150 as omp bit more dollar! Wud both make good models? Is the 180 more stable/ predictable being larger? Thanks👍
@cjb405 - More size gives you better wind handling ability, more inertia & momentum, and of course being able to see it at greater distances. On the down side, the bigger you go, the more energy will be released when it crashes and that means parts break more. Also consider your flying area, if you have a large size area you will appreciate the increase in size, if your flying area is small, then going smaller has obvious benefits.
Hey, I really don't want my batteries to overcharge...What is an affordable charger that I can use for these batteries that will charge them properly? can you link it here?
I cover RC chargers & my personal recommendations based on budget & power needs on my RC Charger page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-battery-charger.html For something that is low cost, and not overly powerful, the SKYRC B6 is a good one: amzn.to/3LdxhDT You'll need an XT-30 charge harness as well.
hello my friend, I need a help about the helicopter Eachine E150 2.4G 6CH 6-Axis Gyro. Could you please check if when you reverse channel 4 on the radio the tail movement of the helicopter also changes direction? normally when the tail control on the radio is moved to the left the tail goes to the right, if channel 4 on the radio is inverted when the tail control on the radio is moved to the left the tail also goes to the left? please check if this is possible. thanks.
hey John can you help me a little please I bought this helicopter it's in the mail and now I realize Banggood will not sell batteries and lots of people will ship to Canada…will this fit…53.5x30.5x18.1mm should I cancel my order if you can't get batteries what is a person to do… I wish this was part of your review
LiPo shipping restrictions are ever changing; have been since 2012. At the time of the review, it was no issue ordering smaller LiPo's from Banggood (under 1000mah). This is a new restriction forced on them in the last couple months by the shipping companies. Get used to it because LiPo shipping restrictions are getting tighter & tighter world wide. I've been warning of this for a decade now on my website; as I said, its nothing new. As for getting LiPo's here in Canada, I personally get all my LiPo's from RotorQuest here in Canada. They carry several quality brands but I have no idea if they have a pack that will fit the E150 as I've never looked. I'm sure Gen's Ace/Tattu or Pulse-Ultra would have a pack that will fit this thing, but as I said, I've never looked into it. Totally your call if you want to cancel your order or spend some time on Google first to find a similar sized 3S pack that you can order from a Canadian LiPo retailer. 🙂
Hey John! Awesome video 🌈 This is my favourite Eachine heli to date! 🤩 I’ve had hours of fun with this one! Unfortunately it had to happen, I took a sideways impact. No biggy really, no signs of damage whatsoever. But now whenever I apply throttle, the tail immediately goes to full power & of course the heli just spins around on the pavement. Any ideas? Much appreciated 👍🏻
Only guessing without seeing it in person to properly test output voltages and scope it, but it sounds like the ESC pooped the bed (current spike took out the tail motor mosfet/s/control circuit). Again, just a guess.
Neither are better than the other, one is just bigger. Which is best suited to the size of your flying area is the question. A smaller area, the E150 would be a better choice. A larger flying area, the E180.
@zmanphx - If you mean subtrim - yes. Keep in mind when using the E6 (or any other computerized radio) with this heli, like almost all FBL systems, you set servo centering up in the flybarless unit, not the radio.
I thought 4.2 volts charge was standard. Would 4.23 be an issue. Is 'Way over charged' an exageration. In many years of flying various helicopters I've always got good, long life.
@bert rc - Yep, couldn't wait for someone to bring up this topic. 👍 I too have been flying large electric RC helicopters for over 12 years now, and there is direct correlation between max charge voltage and cycle life. Lot's of studies on it as well, and many an electrical engineer discussions have resulted. Personally, I won't even charge my large expensive packs past 4.18V anymore and I know a growing number who now terminate at 4.15V. A Common LiPo study that is often referenced shows: Charge to 4.1V gave over 2000 cycles. Charge to 4.2V gave about 500 cycles. Charge to 4.3V gave under 100 cycles. Charge to 4.4V gave less than 5 cycles. Now, is 0.02 to 0.03 voltage potential going to make much of a difference with all the other variables that reduce LiPo life such as over discharging, charging at too high a current rate, poor storage charge habits, over heating, etc. Not likely and yes, I was purposely being hyperbolic to make a point and get a discussion going because there is no reason whatsoever for any of these little USB chargers to be over charging packs by any amount. Hopefully by calling it out bluntly, maybe it will be addressed. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun hear what you are saying and good on you. Bare in mind, and I am sure you would this know better than me, non of my chargers or testers can agree at increments of 100th of a volt. All references on the web quote 4.2 volts. (4 & 2 tenths) So perhaps if testers and chargers stuck to tenths of a volt and dropped the hundredths, which are inaccurate anyway, we could be less pedantic about it. Keep up the good work. :)
@bert rc - "non of my chargers or testers can agree at increments of 100th of a volt". Really? All my iChargers and even those little low cost voltage checkers are always bang on to each other down to 10 millivolts. It's only once into the 1 millivolt range where things start drifting a bit from what my DMMs indicate. Guess I've just been lucky. 🙃 Personally, I'd be damn upset if any of my chargers couldn't accurately charge and balance with less than 10 millivolt resolution and remain consistent with each other.
Hi John. Man am I disappointed. I just bought and an Eachine 150 of a guy new out of the box. Took off it flew great. Bit of a hard landing (no crash) the tail rotor was bent. Changed the tail rotor and now the boom seems to vibrate quite a bit and even though the tail rotor is turning all the heli does is spin around out of control. Could it be the tail motor is not spinning quite fast enough even though the tail rotor turns. Should I get another tail motor? Anyone help please.
Sorry, but any "landing" that released enough energy to bend the tail rotor is a crash. Usual culprits in order of probability... The tail rotor is slipping on the motor so it can't produce enough thrust. The motor is shot. The ESC is shot.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot John. Really appreciate the response. I’m very disappointed I know you know the feeling. Well I can assure the tail rotor is tight and I don’t think it’s the ESC because the helicopter flew perfectly until that hard landing. Honestly though man it really wasn’t that bad these things are fragile. I guess that leaves the tail motor right? I I always thought if the tail motor was shot it wouldn’t turn the rotor at all but I guess not. Would that also account for the extreme tailboom vibration? Also I am signing up for your books but under another name this is my pseudonym for TH-cam
Hi Steve, Yep, no crash where damage occurs is that great, but to be honest on these little micros, it's not bad and they are for the most part very forgiving. Keep in mind those little brushless direct drive tail rotors are spinning upwards of 40K RPM - there is massive energy release when they hit something while spooled. Just be thankful it wasn't a bigger machine where even a light tail rotor strike can add up to a couple hundred beans in the blink of the eye. You never mentioned a strong vibration in the boom in your original comment. That most certainly indicates something is bent/damaged within the motor.
How durable is the tail boom. The e160 is so flimsy, one strike and its broken. How is the e150 doing ? I like aluminum more, you get a ding but thats it
Nothing special - just a subby homage - a PD GMT automatic: amzn.to/3LIVwtQ It's a decent & inexpensive timepiece for rough usage around the workshop/garage.
this is off topic but can you charge lipos to like half their capacity so lets say a 2 cell instead of charging to 8.4v, can i charge it to like 8v and be all good?
That is how you would charge LiPo's for storage - 50% capacity. Wouldn't want to only charge them to 50% capacity before a flight however. A 2 cell LiPo at 50% capacity would not be 8V, it would be closer to 7.7V (3.85V x2). www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
Watch the chargers they can catch fire and also damage the middle cell of the lipo's, happened to all 3 batteries. I put the power down to 40% to get used to it, even then it's fast, crashed it into a brick garage and it was fine, it's a good chopper.
If want to know what protocols are support - visit multi-module.org's website for a full listing (there is much more than just Futaba that Multi-module will work with). Futaba's S-FHSS protocol is one of many.
So.... I have the e180, plugged the charger into the wrong usb block and its fried. Have you used a balance charger on these batteries before? Stuck waiting 3 weeks plus for an OEM charger from banggood.
@@Rchelicopterfun I saw you checking the voltages via the balance charger (assumed you used it for charging as well) just wanted to confirm. My local hobby shop was less than helpful trying to get me airborne, they were super flustered with the XT30 connector, I thought it was pretty standard hobby stuff. I appreciate the reply John!
@Brian Harris - Yep, XT30's are very common place for smaller models like this. Basically the equivalent (not compatible) to the EC2 which most hobby shops here in North America are no doubt more familiar with due to Horizon Hobby's almost draconian dealership rules & regulations. As for XT30 charging, I just make my own charge harnesses, but you can find them and even Xt30 para-boards pretty easy. Buddy RC in the US has them: www.buddyrc.com/products/40a-paraboard-v2-xh-and-xt30?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb&variant=30274316107862 Banggood also carry them: www.banggood.com/custlink/KvmYQnAsUg Likely many other places as well - those two came up with a 20 second google search. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun after this info I took the plunge and drove 40mins across town. They were able to set me up with everything I needed to make leads. First time I've solder in about 24 years but hey I got my heli flying today thanks to your info and their help, much appreciated!
Impossible to have a shaft/belt driven variable pitch tail rotor on a heli this small. Fixed pitch brushless direct drive tail rotors work exceedingly well and are by far the best/only option on collective pitch helicopters up to about 250 size.
Presuming you are referencing Align's very first direct drive micro (the Trex T15), it hasn't even been released yet while the E150 was releases back in October. They are vastly different looking and different sizes so I can't see how it looks like a "rip off". Of course all the Align haters are saying the T15 is a rip off OMP M1 which is certainly closer to the T15 than the E150 in both size and design. However, who even cares who mimics who? What's important is they are all awesome little direct drive collective pitch helicopters that fly great and are tough little buggers; not to mention the last time I checked, it's always in the consumer's best interest to have options.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
Eachine E150 Bind N Fly version:
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGDWovMYWo
John, great review. Do you recommend this for a rookie with limited Heli experience coming from a 450? I have a Dynam E-razor 450 RTF aluminum head with the mechanical flybar from 2012 that I finally repaired and got back in the air after 10 years. It wasn't bad while I had it in the air the past couple of times, but I literally crashed it for the 3rd (and maybe final) time today! I'm still not used to the throttle for a good hover, but there was wind today. I'm sure I didn't have it all dialed in, but it was pretty responsive. Since it is obsolete, I won't soon find parts for it and I'm down to my last flybar if I decide to fly again. The main gear is worn in 2 spots too, but it still flew. I just got too greedy and there was small wind gusts. I should have quit while I was ahead, but I didn't. Anyway, I've also got the Xk110 micro heli that I fly indoors and I love that as well. I want something that is CP, but I'm clearly not ready for 3D. I just want to fly without worrying too much about the stakes of crashing, and I am not a bad quacopter pilot. Maybe I should embrace the new era of electronics assisted flybarless flight. Will this do or should I look elsewhere?
Thanks for your honest review. I love my M1 and was thinking going a little bigger but still sub250g for the regulations. This was the contender, because M2 is just slightly above 250g. I guess I'll stick to the M1.
Isn't that regulation just for fpv flying. Line of site flying is exempt?
@Lindrud Trucking LLC. Depends on the county's specific regulations, but most are all inclusive meaning all RPAS (remote piloted aerial systems) fall into regulation regardless of LOS or FPV. Up here in Canada all under 250g RPAS are exempt, or if you belong to MAAC (Model Aeronautics Association of Canada) and fly out of a MAAC approved flying site. However, MAAC won't allow FPV flight without a spotter which is again fairly standard in many countries.
@John Salt Thanks John! Love your reviews and for brushing us up on the regulations!
🚁🇨🇦🚁
If you live in the U.S., the FAA regs aren't too bad to deal with. Basically you have to pass a really easy test (TRUST) online, and carry the certificate with you. The test goes over all the salient points of the new regulations, then periodically asks you multiple guess questions as you go. That part of it is all free, and probably worth completing if you ever intend to fly outdoors just to avoid any potential hassles even if you are below the weight limit. If your aircraft is above 250g, you need to register it w/ a $5 fee per vehicle, and mark your registration number somewhere on the outside. If you live in uncontrolled airspace like I do, that's all you basically need to worry about. If you intend to fly in a controlled airspace environment, then you need to get clearance which can be done online in real time for free. Alternately you can fly in an AMA approved site.
HOWEVER... In 2023 there is supposed to be a requirement that all drones have a transceiver mounted onboard. Basically so it shows up on any radar in the area.
In the real world, if you are flying indoors, on your property, and/or flying anything larger than 100 size class helicopters, I wouldn't worry about it. Even 200 sized helis are small enough you probably won't attract any attention. Larger than that, if you intend to fly outdoors in a public place, then it would be a good idea to register the model.
Personally I have very mixed feelings about all of this. On one hand, I think it's classic government overreach and fee grabbing. On the other hand I have known some very irresponsible pilots. One braying jackass I'm thinking about used to like buzzing the Coast Guard tower in our area. I've also watched him crash his plane into the side of an RV, then go over, grab the plane, and run away and pretend nothing happened. Not to mention he got ALL R/C flying banned from quite a number of spots in town because of his antics. It's because of idiots like him that we ended up with these regulations.
@@Reindeer911 Nice to know the US regulations for interest sake. In europe we still have to register ourselves as RC pilots and have an insurance, that covers RC models. Its not a big deal. Above 250g you are very limited where to fly. So that really sucks. You cant fly in a park. At least not if it gets a little bigger, noisier and stops looking like a childs toy. I guess the M1 would be on the limit already. If there is no complaint, youre good. The law says above 250g you will need remote ID soon from 2023 and are generally not allowed to fly near any uninvolved pedestrians. Thats all law theory and practically nearly impossible. That only leaves you an RC club to fly at. Unless you really have a good spot in a offside rural area.
John good to see your review. overall this is my favourite micro and has proven to be a very tough bird with the CF chassis.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the cool review! I just about sprung for one, but after your further thoughts and re-watching your OMP vids, I now have a purple OMP M2 V2 on the way!!! Just can't wait till the time I can do them justice.
Nice 🙂
HE!HE!HE! That 150 is a bumblebee at 100% !😄 Nice review John, I like your method of testing on this one. Blue skies!
👍😄
I really like this heli and it will more than likely be my next one. Very nice review John.
👍🙂
I remember getting my nano cpx many years back , gota love the micros
Dang this looks super solid ! V977 Powerstar my main chopper, this may be my first direct drive heli !
At 8:19 I flinched when I saw you slam it around, but if it is that strong I am super excited to fly mine, and not feel bad with my bad landings XD
Yep, it's a tough little bugger for the most part.
the included flat blade driver is for adjusting the 3 screws on flight control board.
Flash backs to annoying insect that won't leave you alone. Looks fun, great family pestering device 😁
😄
Another wonderful review John. Great information as always! Take it easy on those Tail Booms, I know you have been hitting the Gym, I don't want to see you breaking anything John. 😂👍
😂🙃
How hilarious funny, loved the review here, hit the link to buy one, have a lovely message flash up on a screen stating "no shipping to the UK" how lovely to be so exclusive excluded! Will ship anywhere on the planet except Great Britain. Well thank you, I shall take my business else where then.
Thanks for sharing
@@Rchelicopterfun I just do not understand why they will not ship to the UK? We are no different to any other independent Country in the world. A real shame.
@tetherracer1 - you should ask this question direct to BG - I don't know their shipping policy. My best guess would be since you have a BG warehouse in the UK (we don't here in Canada), they will only ship stuff like this with LiPo's (dangerous goods) direct from the UK warehouse once stock levels have improved. In short, it most likely has more to due with LiPo shipping regulations in your country along with the world wide shortage of almost everything right now than it has to do with BG's shipping policy to the UK from the CN warehouse, but again - best to ask them. 🙂
I looked at the Thumbnail of this video, I thought I had seen a flying Cadbury’s Cream Egg!
Classic & so true!
Haha...I have just watched this vid and thought exactly the same as soon as I saw it, flying cream egg...🤣
Thanks again John for an excellent review. I just got this little guy today (my Bday nice happenstance). What you recommend in terms of settings to tame her down. Really don’t want to break this before even really enjoying it. I’ve heard conflicting things but I’ve got my throttle curve at set at a relatively consistent rpm from 0 to 60 ish. Not sure if that’s better than a linear curve but I’m hoping for a stable hover where the throttle doesn’t shoot it up and down. I’ve got low rates set a 50 and an expo of positive 25. As far as pitch, I tried to set it without too much negative so it won’t slam into the ground so no lower than 40. I heard you mention running at less than full power? Not sure what that entails. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Steve, Happy B-Day 🙂 I cover correct setup practices for any CP heli based on flying style in my Setup & Tips eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
You want consistent head speed with any CP heli, meaning more or less flat line throttle curves or at least shallow ones - but certainly not high or full power with normal/gentle type flying. If you are just learning, no negative collective at all - a little positive even and not maximum collective either. For normal/scale flying perhaps -3 to +10 at most; all explained in detail in the setup ebook. Your DR is a good starting point for normal/gentle flying, I personally wouldn't use any +EXPO with that much DR reduction - but that is entirely up to the individual how they want cyclic and tail response.
Performance looks great, I always hate how those motor tails buzz lol
Good review John.
I've been tempted by the M1 or this but the M2s get so small quickly and I don't like flying too close. I'm thinking of going bigger, maybe the OMP M5 if it's affordable or the 380 buddy.
Yep, can't wait to see if/when the M5 makes it to production.
@@Rchelicopterfun I would prefer an m3 or m4 to be honest. I can get away with park flying my M2 in London but anything bigger and louder than an m3 would draw too much attention...
We'll see though 😏
Thought about getting this before. Might think about it again even though I'm after bigger birds too.
He does great reviews
Seems that those lipos aren't really struggling with the obvious cold temps!
Hi sir how to level thr swash plate of the eachine e150?
i always wonder how people can fly like that while i'm already glad that i can catch my nano s3 from crashing into the trees 30m away without having to use the Panic! button
That was even fun to watch😃
🙂
You made a comment about liking DFC for small helos, not for large ones. I might have missed it in an earlier videos, but could you elaborate on why? Pros / cons? Thanks John.
Hi Franklin. I cover the DFC topic, pros & cons, small vs large heli advantages in detail on my website on the DFC page. Here's the link: www.rchelicopterfun.com/DFC.html
That should answer all your questions about it, but if not, contact me through my site. 🙂
Cool review sir
Thanks for the visit
@@Rchelicopterfun I've been watching your videos sir. Its awesome.
Sir can eachine e180 rotor clips fit in eachine e150? Since u have both heli,
No idea. Different part numbers so I highly doubt it.
Those little DD helis cam autorotate? Or even the traditional version like the 160 can do?
Not enough rotor area on these little ones. The 200 size & up direct drive ones will do it, but it's hard; just so little rotor area and rotational mass. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the machine, the easier it is to auto.
Wait, so the USB charger charged each cell to 4.22, 4.23, and 4.23 and you said they were way overcharged and the supplied charger was no good. Then later in the video you said you were ready to go and showed that they were all charged to 4.20. I know charging levels are important for these batteries but is 0.03 volts per cell on a 3 cell battery truly way overcharged? I'm still newer to the hobby and have a lot left to learn so I was just curious if that small of a difference is something I need to be focusing on. Great video and really informative, thanks!
Normal chemistry (not HV) LiPo cells are extremely sensitive to over-charging; it's not as bad as over-discharging of course, but it has significant impact. Some won't even charge to 4.20 anymore and set their termination voltage lower. Personally, on my large costly packs I usually set termination at 4.18, on these small low cost packs, I don't really care. 4.23V termination won't be halving the life of the battery of course, but it's damaging the cell, no question. Also depends on cell quality and many other factors such as pack temperature, how long the cells sit at the 4.20V 100% charged state and the amount of internal resistance of the cell, both new and as they age.
Anyway, anything over 4.20 even by 100's of a volt should be avoided for maximum LiPo cell life.
I cover this in more detail on my LiPo articles on my website. This page is the hub for all the LiPo help articles: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
Charging specifics are covered on this page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/charging-rc-lipo-batteries.html
Awesome video !!!
Thanks for the visit
New flyer here. Meaning I’ve had a coax 3.5 channel heli for a couple months and sooooo ready to fly with banking instead of just straight lines. And I want to advance period. Is this a good beginner? And if I tape it off all properly, can I paint the boom and skids, along with body and not have to worry about screwing up weight distro and flying? I have a little bit of a hard time seeing in some lighting situations and want to make it brighter.
Any collective pitch RC helicopter can be made into a good trainer by fitting a set of training gear and using a tame learning to fly setup. Your setup determines how a collective pitch helicopter behaves from tame to insane. The E150 is no exception to this and can be a great trainer right up to a powerful 3D smacker.
As for painting it a different color, I suppose as long as it's not really heavy paint, it won't upset things much, but keep in mind weight is the #1 enemy of any small helicopter.
John please. For the love of God how do I unscrew the rotor head? What kind of screw is it? Do you need a special tool?
Unfortunately, I can't recall what size the hex head is on the jesus bolt/shaft bolt; presuming that is what you are referencing since the head doesn't unscrew from the shaft. I also no longer have this heli to check the size of the shaft bolt hex head. I'm guessing it's a 1.5mm hex, but that is just going by my over one year old foggy memory of working on this one.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much for the reply John. I really do appreciate it. The screw I’m referring to can be seen by looking up the rotor headset. You can see it’s threaded at the bottom, but it is not a regular hex screw and I couldn’t for the life of me find out how to unscrew it and I think it would be necessary to remove it to work on the head. If anything it seems slightly Phillips like but the included tools did not seem to fit. Fortunately, I discovered it was the anti-rotation bracket which didn’t necessitate removing the head but I might well have to sonner or later. I’ve got a few of them. Way above my skill level at this point as well in idle up. I hear you about that, it’s crazy powerful. Again, kind of disappointing to have broken the anti-rotation bracket on what I considered a bit of a hard landing on grass. Seems you can barely get away with anything with these things….I know because of the energy released. I guess I was a little late on the throttle cut. Any thoughts would be very appreciated thank you.
That's freeking cool."
John, I bought an E150 and have it bound to my Spectrum DX8. I notice when I flip my gyro switch, the LED on the RX is either solid blue and red or blue with red blinking. In either position , I don't notice any tendency of the swash to self level when I tilt the heli. Am I missing a step? Wish there was an instruction manual.
Thanks
Bob
Sounds like it's working correctly by your description. Blue LED is RF status (radio communication). Solid blue means the RX in the heli is communicating correctly with the TX. Blue should always be solid in other words, no issue there by the sounds of it.
Red LED indicates stabilization mode selection type (assigned to channel 5 output); red flashing= normal gyro, red solid=artificial self level. Again, by what I'm reading, yours is working just as it should. I don't think the gyros on the E150 (I don't have mine anymore), are not activated until the ESC gets a power signal, ie. the the rotor spools so gyro mode operation can't be confirmed until rotors have spooled and powered down (I think). In short, just trust the red LED 🙂
I cover LED status (many micro CP helis work the exact same way) on my stabilization video: th-cam.com/video/LouYitd7jak/w-d-xo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun OK. I'll give it a try. Thanks for your reply.
Gave it a try with the blades off and motor running. Seems to work as it should. Swash moves counter to the direction of tilt.
Did a test flight this morning and it hovers very nicely but wants to come back a litttle. I put in a little forward elevator trim which stabilized it. Flew a few figure 8's no problem. I noticed that its a little tail heavy which is probably the cause for it wanting to come backward. I'll balance it and take out the trim and see how things go. Very nice!
4.23 is "way overcharged"? What should "full" be?
Shown in the video 4.20. 4.18 to 4.19 even better if you want to play it safe.
Hello, is there any video showing how to bind an x6 transmitter with this heli?
What character you recommend?
nice video on this heli, did you just bind on fly or you of to do sum setting on the radiomaster tx16 , would like to see those settings.
As I said in the video & link to, I use the same OpenTX collective pitch heli template on this heli that I use on all of my birds: th-cam.com/video/XdFOndPG7xo/w-d-xo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun ok ,thanks.
Sure would be nice to see it when your flying it. The trees in the background are making it disappear.
IN the middle of winter when the sun is skimming the horizon, we are lucky we got any flying footage.
Hi John, I have three question for you , first question do you know if eachine e180 servo will work with eachine e150, second question eachine E200 will i able to use the tail motor on E150, last question E200 main motor will it fit in E150 , needed parts for my eachine E150 but banggood seams to not stock parts for e150 .
Sorry, no idea on all 3.
@@Rchelicopterfun OK,thanks you.
Great review John, I still prefer personally the OMP brand for small helis, are we due soon for another R2 video, this made my mind to order a 3D printer, waiting patiently for the next episode
Saturday morning 🙂
Can we all please contact all these makers of Heli's and DEMAND more attention being paid to canopy size/position? Its been ridiculous for MANY YEARS now, pretty much ALL manufacturers do it. I have often run my fleet with "a size up" fitted. Example: I run modern high C discharge 4000mAh 6S on my 500's (various makes), and most are now running 550 canopies or have ugly double grommet locations further aft on the canopy. Only a quick EMail, but if LOTS of us do, surely they might listen. Here's my mail......... "Dear Eachine, like the look of the E150, as do five of my flying buddies. NONE of us are going to buy though, as you have made the canopy far too tight a fit. Correct this and we'll surely buy!"
Hi John, Ramy here your new subscriber. Thanks a lot for sharing, I just enjoyed watching your videos. What do you say the m2 vs eachine 150? Thanks in advance.
@Ramy Lems - Pretty different helicopters in size alone. A more direct comparison to the E150 is the OMP M1 which I shared my comparison thoughts on at the end of this video. If you are wanting a better apples to apples comparison to the M2, the Eachine E180 would be much closer. I did a review on it as well, and like every heli, it has pros and cons, but I like the M2 better (both subjectively & objectively) as it suits my flying style better and parts are easier to source here in North America.
Hi. May I ask which country you are from? this 250g law exist in mine too!
Canada
Hi John..i bought this model without remote version (my mistake)..and i newbie..so how to control my heli...i need to buy transmitter and receiver?can you suggest that suitable?please...help me..Thank you.
Please...show me step by step after buy controller.
You need a futaba sfhss protocol transmitter like xk x6, eachine e6 etc, no need to buy receiver
@@vaggost.3933 Thank you.
Great vid excellent info and love your voice very easy to listen to! Q i want a heli to move into from cp non 3d i have and been considering the e180 or e150 as omp bit more dollar! Wud both make good models? Is the 180 more stable/ predictable being larger? Thanks👍
@cjb405 - More size gives you better wind handling ability, more inertia & momentum, and of course being able to see it at greater distances. On the down side, the bigger you go, the more energy will be released when it crashes and that means parts break more. Also consider your flying area, if you have a large size area you will appreciate the increase in size, if your flying area is small, then going smaller has obvious benefits.
Hey, I really don't want my batteries to overcharge...What is an affordable charger that I can use for these batteries that will charge them properly? can you link it here?
I cover RC chargers & my personal recommendations based on budget & power needs on my RC Charger page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-battery-charger.html
For something that is low cost, and not overly powerful, the SKYRC B6 is a good one: amzn.to/3LdxhDT
You'll need an XT-30 charge harness as well.
First crash and broke my tail boom in half. Having trouble sourcing a new one for a reasonable cost. Anyone have any links?
Ok, now thinking just carbon fibre tubing of right OD on amazon likely best option - measured it and seems like 7mm ID x 8mm OD should work.
hello my friend, I need a help about the helicopter Eachine E150 2.4G 6CH 6-Axis Gyro. Could you please check if when you reverse channel 4 on the radio the tail movement of the helicopter also changes direction? normally when the tail control on the radio is moved to the left the tail goes to the right, if channel 4 on the radio is inverted when the tail control on the radio is moved to the left the tail also goes to the left? please check if this is possible. thanks.
hey John can you help me a little please I bought this helicopter it's in the mail and now I realize Banggood will not sell batteries and lots of people will ship to Canada…will this fit…53.5x30.5x18.1mm should I cancel my order if you can't get batteries what is a person to do… I wish this was part of your review
LiPo shipping restrictions are ever changing; have been since 2012. At the time of the review, it was no issue ordering smaller LiPo's from Banggood (under 1000mah). This is a new restriction forced on them in the last couple months by the shipping companies. Get used to it because LiPo shipping restrictions are getting tighter & tighter world wide. I've been warning of this for a decade now on my website; as I said, its nothing new.
As for getting LiPo's here in Canada, I personally get all my LiPo's from RotorQuest here in Canada. They carry several quality brands but I have no idea if they have a pack that will fit the E150 as I've never looked. I'm sure Gen's Ace/Tattu or Pulse-Ultra would have a pack that will fit this thing, but as I said, I've never looked into it. Totally your call if you want to cancel your order or spend some time on Google first to find a similar sized 3S pack that you can order from a Canadian LiPo retailer. 🙂
Hey John! Awesome video 🌈 This is my favourite Eachine heli to date! 🤩 I’ve had hours of fun with this one! Unfortunately it had to happen, I took a sideways impact. No biggy really, no signs of damage whatsoever. But now whenever I apply throttle, the tail immediately goes to full power & of course the heli just spins around on the pavement. Any ideas? Much appreciated 👍🏻
Only guessing without seeing it in person to properly test output voltages and scope it, but it sounds like the ESC pooped the bed (current spike took out the tail motor mosfet/s/control circuit). Again, just a guess.
@@Rchelicopterfun Great - makes sense! Thanks John 👍🏻🚁
@@Rchelicopterfun Does the tail motor have it’s own separate ESC?
@Nutleigh Grove - combined unit.
@@Rchelicopterfun You’re a star! ⭐️
Which one is actually better? E150 or e180?
Neither are better than the other, one is just bigger. Which is best suited to the size of your flying area is the question. A smaller area, the E150 would be a better choice. A larger flying area, the E180.
Does the flight controller have servos centering adjustment?
@zmanphx - If you mean subtrim - yes. Keep in mind when using the E6 (or any other computerized radio) with this heli, like almost all FBL systems, you set servo centering up in the flybarless unit, not the radio.
I thought 4.2 volts charge was standard. Would 4.23 be an issue. Is 'Way over charged' an exageration. In many years of flying various helicopters I've always got good, long life.
@bert rc - Yep, couldn't wait for someone to bring up this topic. 👍
I too have been flying large electric RC helicopters for over 12 years now, and there is direct correlation between max charge voltage and cycle life. Lot's of studies on it as well, and many an electrical engineer discussions have resulted. Personally, I won't even charge my large expensive packs past 4.18V anymore and I know a growing number who now terminate at 4.15V.
A Common LiPo study that is often referenced shows:
Charge to 4.1V gave over 2000 cycles.
Charge to 4.2V gave about 500 cycles.
Charge to 4.3V gave under 100 cycles.
Charge to 4.4V gave less than 5 cycles.
Now, is 0.02 to 0.03 voltage potential going to make much of a difference with all the other variables that reduce LiPo life such as over discharging, charging at too high a current rate, poor storage charge habits, over heating, etc. Not likely and yes, I was purposely being hyperbolic to make a point and get a discussion going because there is no reason whatsoever for any of these little USB chargers to be over charging packs by any amount. Hopefully by calling it out bluntly, maybe it will be addressed. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun hear what you are saying and good on you. Bare in mind, and I am sure you would this know better than me, non of my chargers or testers can agree at increments of 100th of a volt. All references on the web quote 4.2 volts. (4 & 2 tenths) So perhaps if testers and chargers stuck to tenths of a volt and dropped the hundredths, which are inaccurate anyway, we could be less pedantic about it. Keep up the good work. :)
@bert rc - "non of my chargers or testers can agree at increments of 100th of a volt". Really? All my iChargers and even those little low cost voltage checkers are always bang on to each other down to 10 millivolts. It's only once into the 1 millivolt range where things start drifting a bit from what my DMMs indicate. Guess I've just been lucky. 🙃 Personally, I'd be damn upset if any of my chargers couldn't accurately charge and balance with less than 10 millivolt resolution and remain consistent with each other.
Hi John. Man am I disappointed. I just bought and an Eachine 150 of a guy new out of the box. Took off it flew great. Bit of a hard landing (no crash) the tail rotor was bent. Changed the tail rotor and now the boom seems to vibrate quite a bit and even though the tail rotor is turning all the heli does is spin around out of control. Could it be the tail motor is not spinning quite fast enough even though the tail rotor turns. Should I get another tail motor? Anyone help please.
Sorry, but any "landing" that released enough energy to bend the tail rotor is a crash. Usual culprits in order of probability... The tail rotor is slipping on the motor so it can't produce enough thrust. The motor is shot. The ESC is shot.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot John. Really appreciate the response. I’m very disappointed I know you know the feeling. Well I can assure the tail rotor is tight and I don’t think it’s the ESC because the helicopter flew perfectly until that hard landing. Honestly though man it really wasn’t that bad these things are fragile. I guess that leaves the tail motor right? I I always thought if the tail motor was shot it wouldn’t turn the rotor at all but I guess not. Would that also account for the extreme tailboom vibration? Also I am signing up for your books but under another name this is my pseudonym for TH-cam
Hi Steve, Yep, no crash where damage occurs is that great, but to be honest on these little micros, it's not bad and they are for the most part very forgiving. Keep in mind those little brushless direct drive tail rotors are spinning upwards of 40K RPM - there is massive energy release when they hit something while spooled. Just be thankful it wasn't a bigger machine where even a light tail rotor strike can add up to a couple hundred beans in the blink of the eye.
You never mentioned a strong vibration in the boom in your original comment. That most certainly indicates something is bent/damaged within the motor.
Sorry I asked before watch vid
How durable is the tail boom. The e160 is so flimsy, one strike and its broken. How is the e150 doing ?
I like aluminum more, you get a ding but thats it
Much stronger boom.
@@Rchelicopterfun
Thats good. I am undecided between the M1 and this one. Whats your take on it
@Jan S, I can't add any more then I already did at the end of the video where I address that very question (M1 vs E150).
Great review!!! Nice looking wristwatch what is it may I ask? Thanks
Nothing special - just a subby homage - a PD GMT automatic: amzn.to/3LIVwtQ
It's a decent & inexpensive timepiece for rough usage around the workshop/garage.
this is off topic but can you charge lipos to like half their capacity so lets say a 2 cell instead of charging to 8.4v, can i charge it to like 8v and be all good?
That is how you would charge LiPo's for storage - 50% capacity. Wouldn't want to only charge them to 50% capacity before a flight however. A 2 cell LiPo at 50% capacity would not be 8V, it would be closer to 7.7V (3.85V x2). www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I’ve heard to store around 3.9V. Make sense? Also would you recommend not fully charging to 4.2 to lengthen battery life?
Just an edit note....You misspelled Helicopter, accidently switched the "p" & "t".
@David Young - Really appreciate that catch - fixed 👍
Hi which site I can learn how to fly 3d stunts
SmackTalk RC plus a good RC helicopter simulator to practice with: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-simulator.html
Flies like a UFO!
Watch the chargers they can catch fire and also damage the middle cell of the lipo's, happened to all 3 batteries.
I put the power down to 40% to get used to it, even then it's fast, crashed it into a brick garage and it was fine, it's a good chopper.
Thanks for sharing your E150 experiences.
...🛩️🚁🛸👍
Can you but them in mode 1 ?
The E6 Radio has switchable stick modes (1 & 2).
Can you use spectrum radio
I said you could in the review when covering the flight controller - just have to use a DSM satellite RX.
Dies IT habe GPS ?
Thankfully no.
But thanks again
Smashed thousand helicopters
Cost lot of time for repair money for parts
Now zero smashes
To be too much fabulously to be that real
So the radiomaster t16 will bind to a heli that uses futaba protocol, no problem?
If want to know what protocols are support - visit multi-module.org's website for a full listing (there is much more than just Futaba that Multi-module will work with). Futaba's S-FHSS protocol is one of many.
@@Rchelicopterfun cheers.
So.... I have the e180, plugged the charger into the wrong usb block and its fried. Have you used a balance charger on these batteries before? Stuck waiting 3 weeks plus for an OEM charger from banggood.
I only use computerized balance chargers on all my LiPos. I even show it in this video.
@@Rchelicopterfun I saw you checking the voltages via the balance charger (assumed you used it for charging as well) just wanted to confirm. My local hobby shop was less than helpful trying to get me airborne, they were super flustered with the XT30 connector, I thought it was pretty standard hobby stuff. I appreciate the reply John!
@Brian Harris - Yep, XT30's are very common place for smaller models like this. Basically the equivalent (not compatible) to the EC2 which most hobby shops here in North America are no doubt more familiar with due to Horizon Hobby's almost draconian dealership rules & regulations.
As for XT30 charging, I just make my own charge harnesses, but you can find them and even Xt30 para-boards pretty easy. Buddy RC in the US has them:
www.buddyrc.com/products/40a-paraboard-v2-xh-and-xt30?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb&variant=30274316107862
Banggood also carry them: www.banggood.com/custlink/KvmYQnAsUg
Likely many other places as well - those two came up with a 20 second google search. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun after this info I took the plunge and drove 40mins across town. They were able to set me up with everything I needed to make leads. First time I've solder in about 24 years but hey I got my heli flying today thanks to your info and their help, much appreciated!
too bad tail rotor is not shaft/belt driven
Impossible to have a shaft/belt driven variable pitch tail rotor on a heli this small. Fixed pitch brushless direct drive tail rotors work exceedingly well and are by far the best/only option on collective pitch helicopters up to about 250 size.
Looks like an align rip off.
Presuming you are referencing Align's very first direct drive micro (the Trex T15), it hasn't even been released yet while the E150 was releases back in October. They are vastly different looking and different sizes so I can't see how it looks like a "rip off". Of course all the Align haters are saying the T15 is a rip off OMP M1 which is certainly closer to the T15 than the E150 in both size and design. However, who even cares who mimics who? What's important is they are all awesome little direct drive collective pitch helicopters that fly great and are tough little buggers; not to mention the last time I checked, it's always in the consumer's best interest to have options.
Cannot ship to UK...., great job Brexiteers!
Is there not a Banggood warehouse in the UK? I'm pretty sure there is - maybe they don't have stock of the E150 right now?
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for nice review, looks great fun. Nope, appears that Banggood doesn't ship to the UK at the moment 😞