Stop and Listen before doing this job!!! Hope these tips help others, rather then working out the hard way, as ive read on here all ready…! I done my dads Evoque for him this weekend other than that not touched a Evoque before… Had I of know all these tips the job in total should take around 2 hours but only if you know all the tips!! All of this info I’ve postage is for Evoque 2012 ! First have the vehicle in the air ie on a ramp, (ideally a 4 poster if poss so you can rotate all the wheels to turn the prop) (leave gearbox in N not P and release E-Brake when needed to spin the prop) don’t have to just easier… Make sure you have the right parts! There are 4 different types… so check before you start! For the job to be done properly on an Evoque your will need; New pump Prop flange nut (new) 2x tubes of oil Main filter With- cover and plastic cap * undo the 2x 18mm bolts which hold the rear diff too the body. This gives you more space. The diff will rest on the exhaust on the left side as you face the rear of the vehicle. Undo the prop bolts.. x6 ( if you have all for wheels off the floor you can spin the prop if not, like me just use long extension and take your time don’t get stressed. Then undo the 4x 10mm bolts on the on the mount bracket which holds the exhaust and the UJ for the front and rear prop… this will help you have more space to remove the prop from the flange coupling once your at that stage. Finally unhook the exhaust silencer from the bungees at the rear - remember the diff is resting on the exhaust so you will need to support the exhaust with a Jack. Now on the back of the flange you will see the 6x holes the prop bolts come through +2 more holes! This are set 180’Degrees apart so you can use a small bolt ie m8 to put in the hole and then use a punch and hammer to hit the bolt which frees the prop mount plate.. The joining plate should then come out of the flange coupling. You can now move the prop to the side and gain access in side the flange too undo the holding Nut. Use a buzz gun to undo. Now use a hammer and drift to knock the flange housing towards the front of the car but leave to old nut a couple turns of the thread to prevent it coming all the way off… (You can use a puller if it’s got long ass claws otherwise your be pulling out outer case and just pull agains the rubber bosh) So hammer and punch… Remember you only need enough room to remove the pump! As soon as you have this space…!!! Haha now you can watch this video… undo the 2x Allen bolts and use a screw driver to prize the pump out… Remember to catch the oil as you brake the seal…! Now the pump is out watch the video and clean the inside… Change the filter for the pump on top! No point changing a new pump, fresh oil and leaving the old filter! Pop the new filter in… And rebuild the car… Flange back on, buzz the new nut on Refit prop Refit exhaust and prop mount plate Exhaust bungees 2x diff bolts… NOW…! To the rear right side as your facing the rear of the car top corner your see the filler plug.. This is in the video however he does not prime it! Fill the Haldex not the diff! till it just starts to come out… Now turn the ignition ONLY for 5 mins, do not start the car… Now try top up again till it dribbles out… (Officially you will now use a syringe and remove 70ml) Can’t see how it would cause damage if you couldn’t ..? Now fit the top up plug… Witness mark all your bolts you have removed - good practice… And start the vehicle 👍🏻 Hope this helped someone
Thanks for leaving out the most important part of the whole video.....dropping the diff down to make it possible to remove the pump. All the rest of it is quite straight forward but without the most important part it's impossible to do. Fortunately you were not in my workshop at the time of my attempted pump removal without this vital piece of information or you may have heard some new words.
GalvanizedGamez! LOL!! So you have to drop the Diff first??! *Was that difficult to do?* I believe you can do the fluid/filter change in situ can’t you? But I’d definitely much rather be able to take it off and do it properly on the bench. ie: Give it a good clean first.. Cheers.
I know its 12 months later but I attempted to remove the motor today on my FL2 and quickly realised it's not possible to ended up using a syringe to pull out as much as possible and refilled ... not perfect I know but better than nothing.
yes its impossible i end up bending the motor that cost me £240 plus getting the car taken away and fixed i trusted the person and its cost me a fortune i should have stopped like you did
The answer why you only got 550mll inside is because the pump and new filter are empty now . After you run the car for a short time you can refill extra 200mll of oil because the filter and pump will fill up again . Total shuld be 750 mll of oil.
I have an Evoque 2014 which has the gen4 Haldex. I went through a puddle today because of Storm Babet, Dundee was just one flowing river. Now I believe I have an issue with the Haldex. No warnings or anything just not engaging the rear diff correctly, so I get a clonk because of fwd and rear misalignment. Could the Haldex just be water logged or the pump shorting out preventing it from operating. RR has full service history, so I would expect it to have had a service. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the video. But at th-cam.com/video/uv4PLa1ZPpQ/w-d-xo.html you are removing it and it is hitting the flange. There is no more room to pull it out and there is still quite a bit of of the pump still in the house (neither o-ring is visible). How did you get the pump past that flange and pull it out?
If you listened carefully he said he removed the two diff support bolts that tilts the diff front down and that gave it the clearance with a tiny bit of manipulation to remove the pump. Definitely a faster way than messing around with the exhaust and prop shaft.
Oh and one other thing, the filler plug does NOT indicate the correct oil level. You need to fill until fluid leaks from filler hole, turn on ignition for 5 minutes (for oil to circulate). Fill to level again then REMOVE 70 mls EXACTLY using a syringe. See LR workshop manual, otherwise you will lose fluid from flange seal
Hi, great vid and very helpful. One problem I’m hoping you can help with. I’ve got everything apart ok however whilst cleaning the pump innards, the two washers that sandwich the small bearing and the multi sprung grommet came out and I would just like clarity on the order they go back in. Could you help with this as there does not appear to be any schematics anywhere.
I can only concur with many of the comments below. I attempted to follow the procedure for the pump removal on my 2012 evoque 6 speed auto with haldex 4 unit only to find the pump will not pass the flange without removing it. Ended up dropping the rear of the exhaust, marking position of and unfastening and lowering the rear of the prop (which will drop if the two diff retaining bolts have been removed), unfastening the 4 x10mm bolts and gently pulling off the haldex unit. Once off remove the flange (some improvisation required to lock it and release the 150 lb/ft bolt!) then strip and clean out. Took me about 10 hours in total. Checked LR workshop manual and can find no reference to the output flange shown in this video for ANY model. Would be interested to know which particular EVOQUE model this video refers to(manual/auto etc)
Some vehicles have a larger damper than on the vehicle in the video and no amount of removing the housing bolts and dropping it down is going to make any difference, other than making access to the filter bolts a little easier, think about what you are looking at, the pump is fixed and the flange is fixed, its not like the flange is going to pivot upwards and move out of the way at all to get the pump in. But i accept on the model in the video and for some others with the smaller flange, this could work out.
Hi, very good video. I have a simple question. Did you replace all the gaskets ? Thanks a lot. P.S. in the video i can see you extract the pump without remove the Flange before: correct ? By the way, is it the 4th gen of the Haldex ? Thanks again.
It seems GEN 3 HALDEX. Get out pump to clean prime filter ok. Change filter ok. Be careful oil level : put in oil, drive a few km, and re-put oil in. Its the same for my GEN4 SKODA one even if accessibility is not same. Good job.
Tried this today, including removing the Diff bolts, but my MY12 Evoque appears to have a larger flange such that the whole circular piece at the top of the pump is in line with the flange. Hence I cannot get the pump past the flange. Looking carefully at the video, especially at 1:25 it is clear that the pump top is lower than mine. Now I am looking at having to do a full removal. :(
@@ericnaegels1648 100% if it’s a Haldex 4. I just slightly loosened the T10 screws on the pump cover and it gives enough “play” to get the pump out. Obviously you need to leave them loose to reinstall or loosen the screws on a new pump before installing. And tighten them up when it’s in place.
There is a lot of miss information, I have spoken to Landrover garages and they are all conflicting, why not every second service, its a fiddly job, little relative cost but could save you a packet
NO..! NO..! NO..!! ..THAT’S WRONG!! YOU’VE DONE IT ALL WRONG!! That’s Completely the WRONG way to do it!! 😳 Hehehehe!!! I’m Sorry. I’m only joking! It’s spot on really. I’m just being a troll! Thankyou for another Very Helpful Video!! (Especially about how much Fluid it takes: 550ml) I’ll get a Haldex Service kit and give it a go, on my Evoque, which has done 51,000 miles now. Thanks again! 😁👍🏼👌🏼
bull in a china shop hahahaha you absolute legend thank you so much great video quick question how did you clean the haldex pump & that small white filter for it? what did you use?
Dovydas David: Hi David, you alright my mate? I’d be really grateful (and so would anyone else who reads your comment) if you could repeat what you wrote above please. But this time, would you kindly write it in English, so we can actually understand what you’re trying to say!! That’d be luvvely jubbly! Cheers mucka!
please don't copy this video i have a 2013 and there is no way the motor comes out with out removing you drive shaft and all the other bits its impossible this video has just cost me £500 as i trusted it. if you go to 1.21 on the video you can see the motor is full up against the driveshaft and is impossible to get out, i done it buy using 2 different videos and force and a file and destroyed the motor had to have the car taken away and fixed cost a forturne dont copy the video its rubbish
@@nothingmuch.3014 It will make no difference unbolting the diff from the support bracket. The motor will hit the flange even if you had the whole unit on a bench.
Stop and Listen before doing this job!!!
Hope these tips help others, rather then working out the hard way, as ive read on here all ready…!
I done my dads Evoque for him this weekend other than that not touched a Evoque before…
Had I of know all these tips the job in total should take around 2 hours but only if you know all the tips!!
All of this info I’ve postage is for Evoque 2012 !
First have the vehicle in the air ie on a ramp, (ideally a 4 poster if poss so you can rotate all the wheels to turn the prop) (leave gearbox in N not P and release E-Brake when needed to spin the prop) don’t have to just easier…
Make sure you have the right parts! There are 4 different types… so check before you start!
For the job to be done properly on an Evoque your will need;
New pump
Prop flange nut (new)
2x tubes of oil
Main filter With- cover and plastic cap
* undo the 2x 18mm bolts which hold the rear diff too the body.
This gives you more space.
The diff will rest on the exhaust on the left side as you face the rear of the vehicle.
Undo the prop bolts.. x6 ( if you have all for wheels off the floor you can spin the prop if not, like me just use long extension and take your time don’t get stressed.
Then undo the 4x 10mm bolts on the on the mount bracket which holds the exhaust and the UJ for the front and rear prop… this will help you have more space to remove the prop from the flange coupling once your at that stage.
Finally unhook the exhaust silencer from the bungees at the rear - remember the diff is resting on the exhaust so you will need to support the exhaust with a Jack.
Now on the back of the flange you will see the 6x holes the prop bolts come through +2 more holes! This are set 180’Degrees apart so you can use a small bolt ie m8 to put in the hole and then use a punch and hammer to hit the bolt which frees the prop mount plate..
The joining plate should then come out of the flange coupling.
You can now move the prop to the side and gain access in side the flange too undo the holding Nut.
Use a buzz gun to undo.
Now use a hammer and drift to knock the flange housing towards the front of the car but leave to old nut a couple turns of the thread to prevent it coming all the way off…
(You can use a puller if it’s got long ass claws otherwise your be pulling out outer case and just pull agains the rubber bosh)
So hammer and punch…
Remember you only need enough room to remove the pump!
As soon as you have this space…!!!
Haha now you can watch this video… undo the 2x Allen bolts and use a screw driver to prize the pump out…
Remember to catch the oil as you brake the seal…!
Now the pump is out watch the video and clean the inside…
Change the filter for the pump on top!
No point changing a new pump, fresh oil and leaving the old filter!
Pop the new filter in…
And rebuild the car…
Flange back on, buzz the new nut on
Refit prop
Refit exhaust and prop mount plate
Exhaust bungees
2x diff bolts…
NOW…!
To the rear right side as your facing the rear of the car top corner your see the filler plug..
This is in the video however he does not prime it!
Fill the Haldex not the diff! till it just starts to come out…
Now turn the ignition ONLY for 5 mins, do not start the car…
Now try top up again till it dribbles out…
(Officially you will now use a syringe and remove 70ml)
Can’t see how it would cause damage if you couldn’t ..?
Now fit the top up plug…
Witness mark all your bolts you have removed - good practice…
And start the vehicle 👍🏻
Hope this helped someone
Thanks for leaving out the most important part of the whole video.....dropping the diff down to make it possible to remove the pump. All the rest of it is quite straight forward but without the most important part it's impossible to do. Fortunately you were not in my workshop at the time of my attempted pump removal without this vital piece of information or you may have heard some new words.
GalvanizedGamez! LOL!! So you have to drop the Diff first??! *Was that difficult to do?*
I believe you can do the fluid/filter change in situ can’t you? But I’d definitely much rather be able to take it off and do it properly on the bench. ie: Give it a good clean first.. Cheers.
I know its 12 months later but I attempted to remove the motor today on my FL2 and quickly realised it's not possible to ended up using a syringe to pull out as much as possible and refilled ... not perfect I know but better than nothing.
yes its impossible i end up bending the motor that cost me £240 plus getting the car taken away and fixed i trusted the person and its cost me a fortune i should have stopped like you did
@@CrashDummyJohn dumbass
@@Two-wheel-cult Was it difficult to get the fill bolt out? I cannot seem to remove it as it is very tight..
Thanks for this video, I have this job to do tomorrow and will be alot easier now 👍
Thx dude - gr8 video - I have LR2 2014 - so same unit - sincerely appreciated
The answer why you only got 550mll inside is because the pump and new filter are empty now . After you run the car for a short time you can refill extra 200mll of oil because the filter and pump will fill up again . Total shuld be 750 mll of oil.
I have an Evoque 2014 which has the gen4 Haldex. I went through a puddle today because of Storm Babet, Dundee was just one flowing river. Now I believe I have an issue with the Haldex. No warnings or anything just not engaging the rear diff correctly, so I get a clonk because of fwd and rear misalignment. Could the Haldex just be water logged or the pump shorting out preventing it from operating. RR has full service history, so I would expect it to have had a service. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the video. But at th-cam.com/video/uv4PLa1ZPpQ/w-d-xo.html you are removing it and it is hitting the flange. There is no more room to pull it out and there is still quite a bit of of the pump still in the house (neither o-ring is visible). How did you get the pump past that flange and pull it out?
If you listened carefully he said he removed the two diff support bolts that tilts the diff front down and that gave it the clearance with a tiny bit of manipulation to remove the pump. Definitely a faster way than messing around with the exhaust and prop shaft.
Oh and one other thing, the filler plug does NOT indicate the correct oil level. You need to fill until fluid leaks from filler hole, turn on ignition for 5 minutes (for oil to circulate). Fill to level again then REMOVE 70 mls EXACTLY using a syringe. See LR workshop manual, otherwise you will lose fluid from flange seal
Hi, great vid and very helpful. One problem I’m hoping you can help with. I’ve got everything apart ok however whilst cleaning the pump innards, the two washers that sandwich the small bearing and the multi sprung grommet came out and I would just like clarity on the order they go back in. Could you help with this as there does not appear to be any schematics anywhere.
I can only concur with many of the comments below. I attempted to follow the procedure for the pump removal on my 2012 evoque 6 speed auto with haldex 4 unit only to find the pump will not pass the flange without removing it. Ended up dropping the rear of the exhaust, marking position of and unfastening and lowering the rear of the prop (which will drop if the two diff retaining bolts have been removed), unfastening the 4 x10mm bolts and gently pulling off the haldex unit. Once off remove the flange (some improvisation required to lock it and release the 150 lb/ft bolt!) then strip and clean out. Took me about 10 hours in total. Checked LR workshop manual and can find no reference to the output flange shown in this video for ANY model. Would be interested to know which particular EVOQUE model this video refers to(manual/auto etc)
Some vehicles have a larger damper than on the vehicle in the video and no amount of removing the housing bolts and dropping it down is going to make any difference, other than making access to the filter bolts a little easier, think about what you are looking at, the pump is fixed and the flange is fixed, its not like the flange is going to pivot upwards and move out of the way at all to get the pump in. But i accept on the model in the video and for some others with the smaller flange, this could work out.
What about the Front Differential? Does the Evoque have one? (Manual) If Yes, doesn’t the front one need servicing too? Cheers.
Sorry, but there seems to be no way of removing the pump with that flange still installed. How did you get it off?
you have to allow the diff to drop a little by removing the support bracket
Hi, very good video. I have a simple question. Did you replace all the gaskets ? Thanks a lot. P.S. in the video i can see you extract the pump without remove the Flange before: correct ? By the way, is it the 4th gen of the Haldex ? Thanks again.
Pierpaolo Quaranta Yes. That’s 4th Gen Haldex.
What about taking 70ml or 40ml off after full refill, ignition on after 5 min, short road test??
Yeah, that has to be done. I'm making a step by step video for an LR2/Freelander 2.
It seems GEN 3 HALDEX. Get out pump to clean prime filter ok. Change filter ok. Be careful oil level : put in oil, drive a few km, and re-put oil in. Its the same for my GEN4 SKODA one even if accessibility is not same. Good job.
Tried this today, including removing the Diff bolts, but my MY12 Evoque appears to have a larger flange such that the whole circular piece at the top of the pump is in line with the flange. Hence I cannot get the pump past the flange. Looking carefully at the video, especially at 1:25 it is clear that the pump top is lower than mine. Now I am looking at having to do a full removal. :(
Thank you for the video. Many thanks
Good video, but how did you get the pump passed the prop shaft coupling?
yes I wondering that
Very slight manipulation, its a bit fiddly but easy to do
you cant i leaned the hard way its cost me £500 look at 1.21 of the video there is not way it will go past
Is there oil in the rear diff control module? Ergo, can I replace it without worrying about adding any oil?
80w 90 castrol is good
Did you manage to remove the pump without disassembling the drive shaft?
Very slight manipulation, its a bit fiddly, patience helps
thanks :)
I surely can't figure out how. There's just no way.
@@hellobrandonscott What did you end up doing?
@@AmericanBadAss901 sold the car and got a bigger Range Rover Sport haha
Can you assure me that you can remove the haldex pump without removing the propshaft? Regards
You have to allow the diff to drop a little by removing the support bracket , 0.18 in video
You can with loosening the pump motor cover T10 torx screws slightly. This gives you just enough play to get the pump out.
@@nickhannaford3253 hi, late after sorry. Can you assure with slight removal of the pump cover you can take the pump out ? Thx, eric
@@ericnaegels1648 100% if it’s a Haldex 4. I just slightly loosened the T10 screws on the pump cover and it gives enough “play” to get the pump out. Obviously you need to leave them loose to reinstall or loosen the screws on a new pump before installing. And tighten them up when it’s in place.
@@nickhannaford3253 perfect, thank you very much. Happy new year 2021 a better one!
At what mileage should this filter & oil be changed?
There is a lot of miss information, I have spoken to Landrover garages and they are all conflicting, why not every second service, its a fiddly job, little relative cost but could save you a packet
Never been done on my freelander 2 and it's 10 years old with 200'000k on it no sings of issues so that's your answer
@@audionut9974 I Have just talked to my JLR dealer & they say there is NO NEED TO SERVICE THIS UNIT ??? is this true??
Every 40,000 miles seems to be the general consensus..
Did my wife’s Evoque at 63k and the pump screen was nearly completely blocked. I reckon it wouldn’t have been long before the pump died.
What is the best oil I could use
Mazola oil, cant go wrong
NO..! NO..! NO..!! ..THAT’S WRONG!!
YOU’VE DONE IT ALL WRONG!!
That’s Completely the WRONG way to do it!! 😳
Hehehehe!!! I’m Sorry. I’m only joking! It’s spot on really. I’m just being a troll! Thankyou for another Very Helpful Video!! (Especially about how much Fluid it takes: 550ml)
I’ll get a Haldex Service kit and give it a go, on my Evoque, which has done 51,000 miles now.
Thanks again! 😁👍🏼👌🏼
bull in a china shop hahahaha
you absolute legend thank you so much great video
quick question how did you clean the haldex pump & that small white filter for it? what did you use?
Djordje Ivanovic Paraffin, methylated spirits, white spirits or petrol even are all fine.
good video!
Nice
wow mine needs sorting can you do mine lol x
Is any one done lots of quashing but noone give right feedback or video. Does not sound good. Like it looks.
Dovydas David: Hi David, you alright my mate? I’d be really grateful (and so would anyone else who reads your comment) if you could repeat what you wrote above please. But this time, would you kindly write it in English, so we can actually understand what you’re trying to say!!
That’d be luvvely jubbly!
Cheers mucka!
please don't copy this video i have a 2013 and there is no way the motor comes out with out removing you drive shaft and all the other bits its impossible this video has just cost me £500 as i trusted it. if you go to 1.21 on the video you can see the motor is full up against the driveshaft and is impossible to get out, i done it buy using 2 different videos and force and a file and destroyed the motor had to have the car taken away and fixed cost a forturne dont copy the video its rubbish
As mentioned many times in the comments section. The diff has to be unbolted from the support bracket to gain enough clearance
@@nothingmuch.3014 It will make no difference unbolting the diff from the support bracket. The motor will hit the flange even if you had the whole unit on a bench.
@@Conrod56 he said you have to lower the rear end, im guessing jack the car up in the rear, did you try that?
If you look at 2:59 you can see he puts the the pump back in with propshaft still in place.