It would be interesting to dig a well and measure the depth of the water table now and in a few more years when more water gets to soak into the soil. Getting a loop going where more water causes more growth to shade the soil that in turn lets more water sink in would be something a lot of people would be interested in seeing I think.
Me too! Looks very green compared with the neighbour lot which was completly brown and dry despite of the rain. I only wonder why they don't break up the soil after rain so seeds can sprout and grow more easy? Especially in the river.
In Namibia’s sun, so harsh and grand, Permaculture takes a daring stand. "Desert's too dry!" skeptics declare, But mulch says, “Hold my water, I’ll care.” Cows do the mowing, trees cast their shade, Compost works magic, nutrients trade. Rain's a rare guest, yet swales give a grin, "Catch it! Store it! Let life begin!" Critters and plants in a quirky embrace, Turning the sand to a thriving place. So in the land where the dry winds sing, Permaculture's the desert’s bling!
Wowee!!! I remember when your guys planted things in the swale and then you put drip irrigation. About a month ago? Tremendous and lush growth. Well done! ❤
@@thefoodforestnamibia comment 173 - yes it may indeed feel like luck - it is however a result of harvesting the water. Both the previous harvesting, and the harvesting this time around. If you had a way to measure the level of moisture in the ground, all the way down to the aquafer, it is very likely that the numbers would show an increase in humidity, at every level, ever since you have first begun the harvesting of the water. Water runs so much slower, in the ground, than it does above ground. So I have no doubt, that you will be able to observe a change is how fast/slow, the water will seep into the ground, after each of the following rain events. If you had a well, on your property, it is very likely, that you would also see how the water level in your well, might very well be higher that what is likely for your neighbors wells. --- Harvesting as much of the water that lands on your property, to the extend that it all gets a chance to seep into the ground, will accumulate in the ground (even at your property) over time. Because water flow so, so much slower in the ground as compared to the speed of flow above the ground. I seem to remember that at Dustups, the estimate was, that above ground, the flow of water would take some minutes (about 30-45 minutes) to flow from one end of the farm to the other end of the farm. But once the water was under ground, it would likely take about 10 years, for the water to flow from one end of the farm to the other end of the farm. So, you are very likely to see noticeable differences of how water will behave, everywhere on your farm, as you keep harvesting as much water as possible. Even if the water leaves the surface in a few days. Once the water is in the ground, it will remain as a local resource, for quite a while. Maybe not as a resource for the top 3 inches, but never the less, as a local resource. If only some types of local growth can get to it. -- Once you have become an experienced 'above the ground water harvester' then you will slowly start to observe how different types of plants reacts to the new below-ground water resources.
i think the lesson from the unfinished beaver dam is that 'done is better than perfect', even if you don't have time it's worth it to just stage stuff inside the river bed just case you get an unexpected rain like this time.
Agree! That's what I was thinking. Seems a good idea just to get as many branches etc down to cover the ground. Obviously there is a risk a bigger flood will move it but might be worth a go!
Looks fantastic, and you can definitely see the improvement over time. That erosion under your little tire dam is called "piping" and it's caused by the water pushing through the narrow gaps between the tires. It works like putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose. To fix it, put fist-sized rocks between in front of the tires, tightly packed together, to force the water to move around even more as the gaps are plugged. Generally, this is why it's recommended that you dig a shallow trench and bury the first course of tires an inch or so below grade. The piles of twigs you have everywhere really are showcasing how important it is to have mulch on the ground. Protecting the top surface of the soil from the harsh winds and sun is making a tremendous difference! Now is the time to harvest more of that native grass and get it transplanted around the property. You can wait on nature to do things, or you can speed up the process, maximizing things. I wouldn't wait because that means leaving a lot of it up to chance. If nothing else, split some of those native grasses and plant them in the bottles so you can really take care of them in the shade house until they are strong enough and thick enough to be transplanted out in the property. You need at least a hundred of the beauties so you can make some wonderful hedgerows around the house and across the stream bed.
I think everything you wrote is great but I second your comment about the native grasses. They are already adapted to the climate so will do really well and if they can dig up a few clumps, divide and transplant it will be so beneficial, keeping the soil in shade and encouraging more soil activity. Its a virtually cost free way to maximise benefits with only cost being the labour to do so. A virtually free green living mulch that can be replicated many times over as one small grass clump will produce so many little transplantable grass plugs. Also the established grass can be used for cut and drop before rains to help introduce humus into the soil as it breaks down, further adding to soil fertility and moisture holding capacity
Great job on capturing moisture with earthworks. As you have noticed, mulching helps reduce evaporation and keep the moisture in soil. I recommend on doubling down on mulching bare soil with native grasses. Cutting grass encourages it to become bushier and produce more shoots, leading to increased biomass overall. Cutting removes the tips of the grass blades where growth hormones are concentrated. This triggers the plant to produce more hormones lower down, encouraging lateral growth and denser foliage. To maximize mulch production and benefit your soil, cut your native grasses when they reach around 30-45 centimeters (12-18 inches) high. This is usually before they start flowering, ensuring most nutrients are in the leaves and stems. When cutting, leave about 5-8 centimeters (2-3 inches) of stubble standing. This helps the plants recover quickly and protects the soil from erosion. Spread the grass cuttings evenly over the area, aiming for a layer about 5-10 centimeters (2-4 inches) thick. Don't pile the mulch directly against plant stems as this can cause rot. Leave some space for air circulation. Water the soil thoroughly after applying the mulch to help it settle and decompose.
comment 161 - So many observations. So many details to ponder, and to learn from. It is all quite marvelous. The way of water. Thanks for sharing all of this - so we can all learn more details of 'the way of water' Indeed, it is all quite marvelous.
Watching from the Philippines. I dunno why, I find romance in fixing deserts when we have a minimum of 10 typhoons-approximately 20, blasting through my country per year, and we got 6 last month, we get too much rain, lol.
Congrats on the amazing achievements in such a short time. Keep up the good work and be proud on your crew. Change does take time. Be it in how people do things and how the water does shape your land. You analyse and adapt according to your conclusions. Hope you feel better soon. ( Wish I could send you some rain from Belgium )
It all looks great Danou! I love to go out to my garden and see the difference between the beds that are mulched and the ones that aren't. I know the theory, and I have witnessed it many many times over the years but it still gives me a wee thrill every single time :))
It's great to see so many people commenting on this video. Just another random thought, if you have cardboard hanging around you can put that over the ground to stop the moisture evaporating in areas that you are not working in.
Again, so interesting to see the progress and the greening of your property. It's always frustrating when employees don't quite get what you want them to do - they are not invested in the way you are, but on the positive side they have still 'broken ground' and moved a lot of dirt in the time you have been away.
01:20 I can totally understand you! It's not being disappointed, it's more like being impatient, as you already have a picture in your mind what's being possible, and you just can't wait getting there. I had (and still have) the same problem. But with a little patience your expectations will be exceeded.
I love the tyre river dam filled with soil 👍 but to decrease speed of water,👉 I would dig furrow like structures horizontally 2 meters before reaching the tyres to reduce speed of water flow and to capture erroded soil and water, (also terrace like structures and Gabions would work)
Oh wow danou tremendous outcome . Step back be proud and satisfied. You have said in other videos baby steps. You and your crew have achieved so much. To me everything looks lush, new life everywhere, things growing, birdsong. Compare that to when you showed us the land on your trip where everything is dead. Your crew are doing their best. I’ve worked with lots of people in my lifetime with different reasons for doing or not doing things and attitudes to work. Like you sometimes I’d just have to shake my head and continue guidance. Big congratulations get well soon and look forward to learning more along the way. Subu Australia.
Mooi! Lekker om te sien dit het weer gereen. Jou harde werk gaan jy regtig eers n verskil sien teen einde 2025 jou gras gaan die somer n saad basis bou, so vasbyt en hou aan met die projekte. Voorspoed vir 2025 vir jou en die familie. Mooi loop.
Wonderful Danou. All of your earthworks are working. Now you are getting first hand experience with how concepts actually apply to your farm. My number one take away from your remarks is that you have become a true believer in the value of shade in your climate. So I would like to reinforce the goal of being able to walk from all 4 corners of the farm in 5 to 10 years in shade. As to your workers - I would never suggest dismissing them. They simply revert to their social and cultural practices whenever you are not standing next to them. Reprograming is a long term project. That is why I continue to mention 'Forest Gardens' training. It works over a period of 4 years. Also it seems you have become a believer in the usefulness of leaky weirs made from compacted brush. That is wonderful because the scrub brush your men cut when clearing the dead underbrush is abundant. one leaky weir every 30 meters in the river with one row of tires and one leaky brush weir in all of the erosion gullies every 5 meters should be the new goal after all of your planting pits are dug for 2025. Your berm is fabulous. one of your men can start cutting fodder every day now until the end of the rainy season. The only caution is do not cut close to the ground - leave a good 8 inches and sharpen the sickle frequently - every 6 to 10 strokes. You have proven the Zai pits are a great way to maximize germination. I don't know how many seeds were planted, but based on the pattern, I'll suggest you got close to 100 percent germination. I wonder if your crew only planted corn after you left town in the shallow planting holes?! ✅
I agree that changing habits does take time. People tend to go in to automatic mode when they do their usual tasks. I'm sure that patience from his side will accomplish his goals with his workers. Maybe in due time they will become the teachers for others in the future. Keep up the good work and greetings from Belgium which registered the most rainfall in 2024 since we started recording.
comment 164 - One simple method to minimize the erosion after the tires at the beaver dam, could be to add branches above and especially after the tires. As has been observed, the flow in the river, is already sufficiently slow enough, that the river does not remove the branches, if they are wide enough (in the length of the river) to help each other to stay put. So, by adding branches (slightly) above, and especially after and in between, the exit of the tires, it will change how the water flows. So the water flow will change, from being a knife and shovel, to being a much more soft type of flow. The same amount of water will flow, but each drop will be disturbed more, so the drops are less likely to team up, and become strong enough to remove the sand under the tires. Ideally stones should be used, as they are very good at breaking up the flow, and spreading the forces over a larger area. So each drop in the combined flow, after the stone is softer - but if stones are not available, then sticks and branches can be used, to soften/disturb the flow of the water. --- Likewise, every place where you see water damage from overflow. It is possible to restore with sand/mud/stones, but by restoring with branches, in the cut, will keep the cut open, so as to still decide where the water will overflow the next time around, but the sticks will soften the flow of the water, so there will be less erosion caused by the overflow. Also the sticks will catch debris, so it is more likely that things will start to grow, in the overflow marks, and the roots from what ever might grow there, will help to make the overflow more resilient to erosion, next time an overflow will happen.
I am from Austria. I think Lucas the other die it shallow because they wanted to finish the field quickly to put the seedinto while Ground is still wet. Dugging deeper means more Work and less planting but deeper keeps the fewer plants with more Shadow -> less evaporation
Brilliant! That berm is just wonderful and the things that haven't worked as you wished have mostly still done something. Can we be greedy and hope for at least one more lot of rain? Hope you are soon feeling better.
In several of your videos, you talk about struggling to find different types of plants/seeds. Have you tried to post a list of what you are looking for? Maybe someone will be able to send/share some with you.
Absolutely fantastic. I know you get it, now you get to see it! A quick shot of the neighbours, maybe with the drone, would really drive the message home. It's not about monoculture, it's not about herbicides, insecticides, fungisides or fertilisers. It's about water and life. The erosion at the check dam might simply be elevation. The drop is too high, allowing the water to punch holes in the ground. Build up a little exit ramp with the hardest thing you can, which will be clay I imagine since you have no rocks, and let the water glide rather than drop. At every stage you can see where water was too fast, and how you don't get growth in those places. It's the same with some of your channels and the new deeper pits. Don't just dig straight down with a spade, dig at a slope so water doesn't drop. I'm concerned about your well talk. You are at the stage of trying to plant water into your land and keep it there. A well that seeps from the surrounding area is going to be taking from the plants. I have no problem with deep holes to catch runoff and hold it, I really don't like wells that gather water to be extracted. It's your choice, but I would say your land isn't ready to support a well that won't do more harm than good.
Greets from Germany ... Check this out The photomolecular effect is a newly discovered phenomenon where light can cause water to evaporate from its surface without the need for heat. Researchers at MIT found that light striking the water's surface can break water molecules away and float them into the air, causing evaporation even in the absence of heat2.
Danou, I think it is important to create large water basins that are also quite deep so that the water does not evaporate so quickly. Depending on the clay content, you would probably have to add clay to the water basins! Thanks for the Update and welcome back @Home🥳🙋🏻♂️
Grass, grass and more grass and we will conquer desertification. Fills me with so much joy to see your land so lush with green. However, at some stage you will have to introduce some herbivore to manicure the land otherwise the same might pose a fire risk as it will turn brown and also to encourage new growth and green. Continue the good and Please don't skip a day, lolol
Hey hey, it’s so wonderful that you are getting more rain this year than last year. 😊 When the water drops off the tires it increases its speed and its force. You could put something hard like building stones or flat stones there to catch the impact? Or it might naturally create a waterfall pool there… as long as that pool doesn’t cut back under the tires which could destabilise the wall it shouldn’t be a problem? Nice to see so much water still under the sticks and in the debris. Thanks for the video. 😊
I think with the rock structure, the water is taking the easiest/lowest route. You may need to add another rock there to give that area some hight. Maybe in future if you make another rock dam, make the centre rocks lower than the ones on the edge so that the lowest point is in the centre and the overflow water will be channel there.
For the tire dams, you need to build a rock or tire outflow dissipation pad that eliminates the drop over the tire. Create a slope off the backside with another line of tires angled into the ground to provide a slope and fill with gravel or rock. This should eliminate the scouring off the backside of the tires. Same thing with the big rock damn, build a sloping downstream side to get rid of the scouring.
A poly culture of trees all become water tanks. Mono culture of trees drink water. That’s why I’m so huge on multiple fruit trees. Bananas I still believe you can grow are pretty much solid water tanks.
I love watching your progress! We are in the middle of our dry season and won't get rain until end of March so it's kinda cool to see that we are almost on the opposite sides of the seasons. Very informative to watch your work and I'm definitely learning from some failed attempts you've made and will be attempting some of these things
Have you thought about trying to create a syntropic agroforestry system on your land? With the success of your long swale I think it could really transform your land
06:10 I can hear a couple of nice bird songs in the background as well. Do you have white-browed (red-backed) scrub robins in your area? You will probably see a steady increase in bird numbers and bird variety as your project develops... As of now, I counted over 130 species on our 60 acres (20 ha)...
I’m reminded of an anecdote, a Diamond Mine in South Africa, they paid a bonus for every diamond the workers recovered! So, a worker found a huge stone! Thinking of his bonus, he smashed the huge stone into over 100 pieces, to get his bonus for each piece!
if you decide to leave that half-finished BDA where it is, maybe just put 2 or 3 t-posts on the back so if you do get more heavy rain, it'll be sure to stay put =]
P.A. Yeomans often said: “The proper place for water is in the soil, not in dams or rivers” or put another way: “The safest place to store water is in the soil”.
8:25 It might be even more efficient to spread the pile out (like 10m²). At ankle height or at most knee height, with a few stakes in the ground in between to stabilize the whole thing. It would slow down the water, catch more debris, and keep more soil moist.
The saying is, if you want something done great, do it your selfes 😂, but they are doing a good job,some stearing is needed and you knew upfront, it could go a litle bit different then what you explained. Its the way it is with workers. Keep on going, its looking great.
Perhaps you can show them where there is greenery, or brown mulch, or deeper pits, there is more sprouting. Do you have a temperature measure where you could show them the temperature difference of bare soil, mulch and the soil beneath, and plants and the soil beneath? In faster moving sections of the swale, perhaps some leaky rock wiers would be a good addition to slow the water. If you continue to catch water like this, you will end up raising the water table in the soil.
I looked at the comments in the previous video and I found a comment in Italian saying that they are fava beans not beans. I did not think he was insulting you, he was telling how they are eaten. I live in Malta in the Mediterranean the most common legumes that we grow here are bush peas, the plant remains less than 2 feet in size and does not sprawl and fava beans
@@thefoodforestnamibia maybe I saw a different comment then. Lol but since my country is becoming almost a desert too, I often despair when we are left 7 months without rain. I do what I can
I think that the water is channeling between the tyres into a stronger flow causing that erosion. Beaver dams dont move without tyres and water getting through isnt channelled.
Many thanks for the updates. Is there any more rain in the forecast? Perhaps you can give the guys some visual reference when digging the small pits, like digging the hole to the depth of the spade head or half a spade head? I knkw i work better with something i can see. Even so, it is heartening to see all that greenery on the swale and you you do a chop and drop in to the swale to keep more moisture there?
if your swales are likely to overflow and you don't have rock, you should consider using tyres as part of the berm to form a level spillway and control where it overflows and stop any erosion of your berms.
Is your brother in law/neighbour warming up to the idea of doing something similar on his property in the near future or is he still on the fence about it?
@ Hi, it’s pretty simple to inoculate, the bacteria is mixed into a “carrier medium” easiest is limestone dust, which is then put into a mixer (even a kitchen food mixer) to which is added damp seed, the dampness causes the limestone powder with the bacteria included to stick to the seed, then plant. The good part is IF your soil has it, you don’t need to inoculate, easy way to check is does your legume roots have the nitrogen converting nodules attached?
@ you can also directly apply it to the soil, but I think that’s too expensive. In Australia it’s very available on line, tell me if it’s not so in Namibia.
Funny how at the beginning when you started to talk about the shallow pocket being in a straight line and not in a fish scale pattern, I thought yeah you’re right they are all in a straight line but as soon as you moved into them and change the point of view and the camera angle they suddenly all appeared in a fish scale pattern. So who right? 😂
14:00 I understand your frustration, we have the same problem here. But: communication is a very difficult thing, and especially cross cultural communication. They probably only got 20% of what you were saying in the first place and then where heavily influenced by their cultural thinking on the way. I found that the better way to teach them is to let them make mistakes and then look at the differences between what you taught them and what they do normally after the effects become visible. Or make a little song that can be sung together while digging those pits. Trying to teach them the way you were taught will only lead to more frustration, try new ways. More practicable ways, visible, singable etc. And expect years to pass before they get it.
13:30 🌿🌿1. Get a water plastic bottle irrigation system for every hole th-cam.com/video/NJQeHGwKf0U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8lt4On2sUNwNsp0R 2. Or something like this th-cam.com/video/BiujnOzZndM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tRk2cQWm_Fk9nBEJ
I laughed at your wet week, it is a pretty common occurence here in parts of NZ. I am pretty impressed with how things are looking. Don't blame Lucas, he has centuries of tradition behind him, and permaculture is a pretty hard concept to adapt to. I am trying no dig and cut and drop in my veg patch, but it also looks untidy which hurts my need for tidiness. And pea straw mulch drive me crazy because the birds love to toss it around everywhere.....
I was raised that chop and drop was "tidy" vs scraping away and "wasting" good carbon in landfills.😅 I know a guy who has your same problem and he had such difficulty growing things because he always scraped up and threw away free material then he would buy stuff at the store. Its sad really.
@leelindsay5618 bags of potting mix are always sterilized to kill the weeds in them, unfortunately kills any microbes and enzymes also. Looks pretty though.
For the erosion around the tires, you need to slow the water, a one rock dam would likely be the best start. a single layer of rocks so they all sit at roughly the same height, so the water fall onto the rock and dissipates it's energy on the rock instead of the soil. th-cam.com/video/qvrp6qRvYbo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hBCUeQbfFgY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching with me. Where are you watching from?
@@thefoodforestnamibia India 🇮🇳
Egypt
Germany 🇩🇪
flanders /belgium
Nederland 👍
It would be interesting to dig a well and measure the depth of the water table now and in a few more years when more water gets to soak into the soil.
Getting a loop going where more water causes more growth to shade the soil that in turn lets more water sink in would be something a lot of people would be interested in seeing I think.
I'm disappointed that you're disappointed - I think the impact is incredible so far!
Me too! Looks very green compared with the neighbour lot which was completly brown and dry despite of the rain.
I only wonder why they don't break up the soil after rain so seeds can sprout and grow more easy? Especially in the river.
In Namibia’s sun, so harsh and grand,
Permaculture takes a daring stand.
"Desert's too dry!" skeptics declare,
But mulch says, “Hold my water, I’ll care.”
Cows do the mowing, trees cast their shade,
Compost works magic, nutrients trade.
Rain's a rare guest, yet swales give a grin,
"Catch it! Store it! Let life begin!"
Critters and plants in a quirky embrace,
Turning the sand to a thriving place.
So in the land where the dry winds sing,
Permaculture's the desert’s bling!
How eloquent your comment is about this permaculture whiz
I approve.
Wowee!!! I remember when your guys planted things in the swale and then you put drip irrigation. About a month ago? Tremendous and lush growth. Well done! ❤
The farm is looking bountiful even 5 days after a rain. Great job!
Yes! The soil is really holding the water this year, we are so lucky!
@@thefoodforestnamibia comment 173 - yes it may indeed feel like luck - it is however a result of harvesting the water.
Both the previous harvesting, and the harvesting this time around.
If you had a way to measure the level of moisture in the ground, all the way down to the aquafer, it is very likely that the numbers would show an increase in humidity, at every level, ever since you have first begun the harvesting of the water.
Water runs so much slower, in the ground, than it does above ground.
So I have no doubt, that you will be able to observe a change is how fast/slow, the water will seep into the ground, after each of the following rain events.
If you had a well, on your property, it is very likely, that you would also see how the water level in your well, might very well be higher that what is likely for your neighbors wells.
---
Harvesting as much of the water that lands on your property, to the extend that it all gets a chance to seep into the ground, will accumulate in the ground (even at your property) over time.
Because water flow so, so much slower in the ground as compared to the speed of flow above the ground.
I seem to remember that at Dustups, the estimate was, that above ground, the flow of water would take some minutes (about 30-45 minutes) to flow from one end of the farm to the other end of the farm.
But once the water was under ground, it would likely take about 10 years, for the water to flow from one end of the farm to the other end of the farm.
So, you are very likely to see noticeable differences of how water will behave, everywhere on your farm, as you keep harvesting as much water as possible. Even if the water leaves the surface in a few days.
Once the water is in the ground, it will remain as a local resource, for quite a while.
Maybe not as a resource for the top 3 inches, but never the less, as a local resource. If only some types of local growth can get to it.
--
Once you have become an experienced 'above the ground water harvester' then you will slowly start to observe how different types of plants reacts to the new below-ground water resources.
a few small setbacks but overall looks like amazing progress! thanks for posting =]
It's looking very green.
yes, I came to say that. The planted swales are looking fantastic.
Progress... not Perfection. Well done!!
i think the lesson from the unfinished beaver dam is that 'done is better than perfect', even if you don't have time it's worth it to just stage stuff inside the river bed just case you get an unexpected rain like this time.
Agree! That's what I was thinking. Seems a good idea just to get as many branches etc down to cover the ground. Obviously there is a risk a bigger flood will move it but might be worth a go!
@@DuanRussel True but if he puts it upstream from a secure structure then it will never move past that
Looks fantastic, and you can definitely see the improvement over time. That erosion under your little tire dam is called "piping" and it's caused by the water pushing through the narrow gaps between the tires. It works like putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose. To fix it, put fist-sized rocks between in front of the tires, tightly packed together, to force the water to move around even more as the gaps are plugged. Generally, this is why it's recommended that you dig a shallow trench and bury the first course of tires an inch or so below grade.
The piles of twigs you have everywhere really are showcasing how important it is to have mulch on the ground. Protecting the top surface of the soil from the harsh winds and sun is making a tremendous difference!
Now is the time to harvest more of that native grass and get it transplanted around the property. You can wait on nature to do things, or you can speed up the process, maximizing things. I wouldn't wait because that means leaving a lot of it up to chance. If nothing else, split some of those native grasses and plant them in the bottles so you can really take care of them in the shade house until they are strong enough and thick enough to be transplanted out in the property. You need at least a hundred of the beauties so you can make some wonderful hedgerows around the house and across the stream bed.
I think everything you wrote is great but I second your comment about the native grasses. They are already adapted to the climate so will do really well and if they can dig up a few clumps, divide and transplant it will be so beneficial, keeping the soil in shade and encouraging more soil activity. Its a virtually cost free way to maximise benefits with only cost being the labour to do so. A virtually free green living mulch that can be replicated many times over as one small grass clump will produce so many little transplantable grass plugs. Also the established grass can be used for cut and drop before rains to help introduce humus into the soil as it breaks down, further adding to soil fertility and moisture holding capacity
good ideas
Love seeing your property after a rain.
Great job on capturing moisture with earthworks. As you have noticed, mulching helps reduce evaporation and keep the moisture in soil. I recommend on doubling down on mulching bare soil with native grasses.
Cutting grass encourages it to become bushier and produce more shoots, leading to increased biomass overall. Cutting removes the tips of the grass blades where growth hormones are concentrated. This triggers the plant to produce more hormones lower down, encouraging lateral growth and denser foliage.
To maximize mulch production and benefit your soil, cut your native grasses when they reach around 30-45 centimeters (12-18 inches) high. This is usually before they start flowering, ensuring most nutrients are in the leaves and stems. When cutting, leave about 5-8 centimeters (2-3 inches) of stubble standing. This helps the plants recover quickly and protects the soil from erosion. Spread the grass cuttings evenly over the area, aiming for a layer about 5-10 centimeters (2-4 inches) thick. Don't pile the mulch directly against plant stems as this can cause rot. Leave some space for air circulation. Water the soil thoroughly after applying the mulch to help it settle and decompose.
Thoroughly agree !
good instructions
Yes, it’s better to Judge People by their Strengths and not just their Weaknesses.
Your place is looking so lush. Your work is paying off.
Watching from UK, No shortage of rain here 😊⛈
What a wonderful sight. Those berms of the swales are teeming with growth!
Crazy how fast it grows
comment 161 - So many observations. So many details to ponder, and to learn from.
It is all quite marvelous.
The way of water.
Thanks for sharing all of this - so we can all learn more details of 'the way of water'
Indeed, it is all quite marvelous.
Finally got some water. 🎉
Looks like your hard work is starting to pay off!
Love all the greenery
Watching from the Philippines. I dunno why, I find romance in fixing deserts when we have a minimum of 10 typhoons-approximately 20, blasting through my country per year, and we got 6 last month, we get too much rain, lol.
Congrats on the amazing achievements in such a short time. Keep up the good work and be proud on your crew. Change does take time. Be it in how people do things and how the water does shape your land. You analyse and adapt according to your conclusions. Hope you feel better soon. ( Wish I could send you some rain from Belgium )
It all looks great Danou! I love to go out to my garden and see the difference between the beds that are mulched and the ones that aren't. I know the theory, and I have witnessed it many many times over the years but it still gives me a wee thrill every single time :))
It's great to see so many people commenting on this video.
Just another random thought, if you have cardboard hanging around you can put that over the ground to stop the moisture evaporating in areas that you are not working in.
Again, so interesting to see the progress and the greening of your property. It's always frustrating when employees don't quite get what you want them to do - they are not invested in the way you are, but on the positive side they have still 'broken ground' and moved a lot of dirt in the time you have been away.
01:20 I can totally understand you! It's not being disappointed, it's more like being impatient, as you already have a picture in your mind what's being possible, and you just can't wait getting there. I had (and still have) the same problem. But with a little patience your expectations will be exceeded.
Plants sprout so fast there!
30c most things will sprout
I love the tyre river dam filled with soil 👍 but to decrease speed of water,👉 I would dig furrow like structures horizontally 2 meters before reaching the tyres to reduce speed of water flow and to capture erroded soil and water, (also terrace like structures and Gabions would work)
Oh wow danou tremendous outcome . Step back be proud and satisfied. You have said in other videos baby steps. You and your crew have achieved so much. To me everything looks lush, new life everywhere, things growing, birdsong. Compare that to when you showed us the land on your trip where everything is dead. Your crew are doing their best. I’ve worked with lots of people in my lifetime with different reasons for doing or not doing things and attitudes to work. Like you sometimes I’d just have to shake my head and continue guidance. Big congratulations get well soon and look forward to learning more along the way. Subu Australia.
Mooi!
Lekker om te sien dit het weer gereen.
Jou harde werk gaan jy regtig eers n verskil sien teen einde 2025 jou gras gaan die somer n saad basis bou, so vasbyt en hou aan met die projekte.
Voorspoed vir 2025 vir jou en die familie.
Mooi loop.
Bedankt
I missed thanking you in my latest video. I am really sory. I realy do appreciate the support!
Waters of life will continually flow on your land and in your heart🙂
Wonderful Danou. All of your earthworks are working. Now you are getting first hand experience with how concepts actually apply to your farm.
My number one take away from your remarks is that you have become a true believer in the value of shade in your climate. So I would like to reinforce the goal of being able to walk from all 4 corners of the farm in 5 to 10 years in shade.
As to your workers - I would never suggest dismissing them. They simply revert to their social and cultural practices whenever you are not standing next to them. Reprograming is a long term project. That is why I continue to mention 'Forest Gardens' training. It works over a period of 4 years.
Also it seems you have become a believer in the usefulness of leaky weirs made from compacted brush. That is wonderful because the scrub brush your men cut when clearing the dead underbrush is abundant. one leaky weir every 30 meters in the river with one row of tires and one leaky brush weir in all of the erosion gullies every 5 meters should be the new goal after all of your planting pits are dug for 2025.
Your berm is fabulous. one of your men can start cutting fodder every day now until the end of the rainy season. The only caution is do not cut close to the ground - leave a good 8 inches and sharpen the sickle frequently - every 6 to 10 strokes.
You have proven the Zai pits are a great way to maximize germination. I don't know how many seeds were planted, but based on the pattern, I'll suggest you got close to 100 percent germination.
I wonder if your crew only planted corn after you left town in the shallow planting holes?! ✅
I agree that changing habits does take time. People tend to go in to automatic mode when they do their usual tasks. I'm sure that patience from his side will accomplish his goals with his workers. Maybe in due time they will become the teachers for others in the future. Keep up the good work and greetings from Belgium which registered the most rainfall in 2024 since we started recording.
It is also a great opportunity to do a comparison between traditional planting patterns and your method…
Watching from wet, soggy and cold England. I can only admire your determination in a tough environment
comment 164 - One simple method to minimize the erosion after the tires at the beaver dam, could be to add branches above and especially after the tires.
As has been observed, the flow in the river, is already sufficiently slow enough, that the river does not remove the branches, if they are wide enough (in the length of the river) to help each other to stay put.
So, by adding branches (slightly) above, and especially after and in between, the exit of the tires, it will change how the water flows.
So the water flow will change, from being a knife and shovel, to being a much more soft type of flow.
The same amount of water will flow, but each drop will be disturbed more, so the drops are less likely to team up, and become strong enough to remove the sand under the tires.
Ideally stones should be used, as they are very good at breaking up the flow, and spreading the forces over a larger area. So each drop in the combined flow, after the stone is softer - but if stones are not available, then sticks and branches can be used, to soften/disturb the flow of the water.
---
Likewise, every place where you see water damage from overflow.
It is possible to restore with sand/mud/stones,
but by restoring with branches, in the cut, will keep the cut open, so as to still decide where the water will overflow the next time around,
but the sticks will soften the flow of the water, so there will be less erosion caused by the overflow.
Also the sticks will catch debris, so it is more likely that things will start to grow, in the overflow marks, and the roots from what ever might grow there, will help to make the overflow more resilient to erosion, next time an overflow will happen.
I am from Austria. I think Lucas the other die it shallow because they wanted to finish the field quickly to put the seedinto while Ground is still wet.
Dugging deeper means more Work and less planting but deeper keeps the fewer plants with more Shadow -> less evaporation
I think you are 100% correct
Brilliant! That berm is just wonderful and the things that haven't worked as you wished have mostly still done something. Can we be greedy and hope for at least one more lot of rain? Hope you are soon feeling better.
In my second language; Pragtig
Baie dankie!
In several of your videos, you talk about struggling to find different types of plants/seeds. Have you tried to post a list of what you are looking for? Maybe someone will be able to send/share some with you.
Great suggestion!
Yes, a wish list is a great idea.
Nature is an amazing teacher isn't it. I'm watching from Australia
Absolutely fantastic. I know you get it, now you get to see it! A quick shot of the neighbours, maybe with the drone, would really drive the message home. It's not about monoculture, it's not about herbicides, insecticides, fungisides or fertilisers. It's about water and life.
The erosion at the check dam might simply be elevation. The drop is too high, allowing the water to punch holes in the ground. Build up a little exit ramp with the hardest thing you can, which will be clay I imagine since you have no rocks, and let the water glide rather than drop. At every stage you can see where water was too fast, and how you don't get growth in those places. It's the same with some of your channels and the new deeper pits. Don't just dig straight down with a spade, dig at a slope so water doesn't drop.
I'm concerned about your well talk. You are at the stage of trying to plant water into your land and keep it there. A well that seeps from the surrounding area is going to be taking from the plants. I have no problem with deep holes to catch runoff and hold it, I really don't like wells that gather water to be extracted. It's your choice, but I would say your land isn't ready to support a well that won't do more harm than good.
very good point
It's amazing how much effort you have already put into this project. I'm sure it's going to pay off hundredth fold.
Sacrifice to the yt algorithm.
Greets from Germany ... Check this out The photomolecular effect is a newly discovered phenomenon where light can cause water to evaporate from its surface without the need for heat.
Researchers at MIT found that light striking the water's surface can break water molecules away and float them into the air, causing evaporation even in the absence of heat2.
Very interesting indeed
i thought so , too
@ug636 The evaporative light frequency is green. Plants reflect green light, stopping the water from evaporating. Turns out, green really matters!
Danou, I think it is important to create large water basins that are also quite deep so that the water does not evaporate so quickly.
Depending on the clay content, you would probably have to add clay to the water basins!
Thanks for the Update and welcome back @Home🥳🙋🏻♂️
Grass, grass and more grass and we will conquer desertification. Fills me with so much joy to see your land so lush with green. However, at some stage you will have to introduce some herbivore to manicure the land otherwise the same might pose a fire risk as it will turn brown and also to encourage new growth and green. Continue the good and Please don't skip a day, lolol
Hey hey, it’s so wonderful that you are getting more rain this year than last year. 😊
When the water drops off the tires it increases its speed and its force. You could put something hard like building stones or flat stones there to catch the impact? Or it might naturally create a waterfall pool there… as long as that pool doesn’t cut back under the tires which could destabilise the wall it shouldn’t be a problem? Nice to see so much water still under the sticks and in the debris. Thanks for the video. 😊
I think with the rock structure, the water is taking the easiest/lowest route. You may need to add another rock there to give that area some hight. Maybe in future if you make another rock dam, make the centre rocks lower than the ones on the edge so that the lowest point is in the centre and the overflow water will be channel there.
❤awesome work! Clearly, dessert turning to oasis!
Thank you 😋
Things are looking good, really coming along. A bit of rain makes a world of difference.
For the tire dams, you need to build a rock or tire outflow dissipation pad that eliminates the drop over the tire. Create a slope off the backside with another line of tires angled into the ground to provide a slope and fill with gravel or rock. This should eliminate the scouring off the backside of the tires. Same thing with the big rock damn, build a sloping downstream side to get rid of the scouring.
From Eritrea🇪🇷🌿🌿🌿🌿
A poly culture of trees all become water tanks. Mono culture of trees drink water. That’s why I’m so huge on multiple fruit trees. Bananas I still believe you can grow are pretty much solid water tanks.
Syntropic agroforestry
@@olsim1730 I use some of Syntropic thinking but evolving my system to drastically reduce the work.
Thanks 👍
Get well soon. Chicken soup /bone broth might help with the flu.
I love watching your progress! We are in the middle of our dry season and won't get rain until end of March so it's kinda cool to see that we are almost on the opposite sides of the seasons. Very informative to watch your work and I'm definitely learning from some failed attempts you've made and will be attempting some of these things
Have you thought about trying to create a syntropic agroforestry system on your land? With the success of your long swale I think it could really transform your land
06:10 I can hear a couple of nice bird songs in the background as well. Do you have white-browed (red-backed) scrub robins in your area? You will probably see a steady increase in bird numbers and bird variety as your project develops... As of now, I counted over 130 species on our 60 acres (20 ha)...
looking good buddy progress❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
7:38 here this is where I think a irrigation dam be dug out and the river diverted to fill it
I’m reminded of an anecdote, a Diamond Mine in South Africa, they paid a bonus for every diamond the workers recovered! So, a worker found a huge stone! Thinking of his bonus, he smashed the huge stone into over 100 pieces, to get his bonus for each piece!
🤣🤣🤣
if you decide to leave that half-finished BDA where it is, maybe just put 2 or 3 t-posts on the back so if you do get more heavy rain, it'll be sure to stay put =]
It caused sedimentation not erosion since there were preventive measures already in place.
Super frustrating and I feel for you.
Very green 💚 Drone footage will be epic.
Do drone video comparisons between your property and your neighbors so we can see the difference your efforts are making.
P.A. Yeomans often said: “The proper place for water is in the soil, not in dams or rivers” or put another way: “The safest place to store water is in the soil”.
Claiming the fridge 🎉
Any chance we could get a topographic map or aerial photo of your property so we could situate the swales and other structures?
There is a youtube friend that made one for us.
Wil try to post the link on the next video
8:25 It might be even more efficient to spread the pile out (like 10m²). At ankle height or at most knee height, with a few stakes in the ground in between to stabilize the whole thing. It would slow down the water, catch more debris, and keep more soil moist.
The saying is, if you want something done great, do it your selfes 😂, but they are doing a good job,some stearing is needed and you knew upfront, it could go a litle bit different then what you explained. Its the way it is with workers. Keep on going, its looking great.
Perhaps you can show them where there is greenery, or brown mulch, or deeper pits, there is more sprouting.
Do you have a temperature measure where you could show them the temperature difference of bare soil, mulch and the soil beneath, and plants and the soil beneath?
In faster moving sections of the swale, perhaps some leaky rock wiers would be a good addition to slow the water. If you continue to catch water like this, you will end up raising the water table in the soil.
a temperature measure might be a cool new tool (or toy).
I looked at the comments in the previous video and I found a comment in Italian saying that they are fava beans not beans. I did not think he was insulting you, he was telling how they are eaten. I live in Malta in the Mediterranean the most common legumes that we grow here are bush peas, the plant remains less than 2 feet in size and does not sprawl and fava beans
Also wasn't sure it was a insult. Did say something about the way of Namibia is the way of despair or something like that...
@@thefoodforestnamibia maybe I saw a different comment then. Lol but since my country is becoming almost a desert too, I often despair when we are left 7 months without rain. I do what I can
Watching from Canada. Sometimes I get a bit dizzy from the way the camera sways back and forth. Interesting to see your beaver dam analogues.
A lot of progress in such a short time 👍 (UK)
I think that the water is channeling between the tyres into a stronger flow causing that erosion. Beaver dams dont move without tyres and water getting through isnt channelled.
How are those two different lots of corn doing after the rain?
Let the adds play through, and watch til the end, hope it helps
Many thanks for the updates. Is there any more rain in the forecast?
Perhaps you can give the guys some visual reference when digging the small pits, like digging the hole to the depth of the spade head or half a spade head? I knkw i work better with something i can see.
Even so, it is heartening to see all that greenery on the swale and you you do a chop and drop in to the swale to keep more moisture there?
Yes, a concrete measure might be best.
Greetings from Malawi. Have you tried vetiver grass? We're using it to control erosion and it's working great.
Trying my best to get some asao
@@thefoodforestnamibia put it on a wish list 💚
Düsseldorf, Germany
Have you considered trying soy and/or peanuts in combi with the corn and sorghum? Soy and peanuts are both nitrogen fixers.
peanuts are a great idea.
16:35 you can definitely thin that row, feed the animals with some top notch grass
and even put some grass as mulch right there on the berm, since there seems to be very little decomposing organic matter
if your swales are likely to overflow and you don't have rock, you should consider using tyres as part of the berm to form a level spillway and control where it overflows and stop any erosion of your berms.
Since you're lacking rock for the dam, perhaps a few sandbags would help the erosion issue.
good point. You get feed and Miliepap bags that you could fill up and use.
Happy to see this. Do you have a map of your permaculture structures?
💚
Maybe put variation of "greening the desert" in the title once in a while to get more views.
Soon you'll be having 4000 subscribers 👍👍
I agree
looks good
Alabama USA
Is your brother in law/neighbour warming up to the idea of doing something similar on his property in the near future or is he still on the fence about it?
Are there any San people living nearby?
We do have yes. And himba people.
Key for you is to slow down rushing water. Rocks might be best. Its slows down rushing wster but pourous enough to allow water through.
You do know you have to “inoculate” the legume seed (I.e. the cow peas) if the bacteria isn’t already in the soil?
I have heard but not. Sure how to do it. Don't think we can buy those Bacteria here but I Wil find out.
@ Hi, it’s pretty simple to inoculate, the bacteria is mixed into a “carrier medium” easiest is limestone dust, which is then put into a mixer (even a kitchen food mixer) to which is added damp seed, the dampness causes the limestone powder with the bacteria included to stick to the seed, then plant. The good part is IF your soil has it, you don’t need to inoculate, easy way to check is does your legume roots have the nitrogen converting nodules attached?
@ forgot to tell you, you can buy the bacteria on line.
@ you can also directly apply it to the soil, but I think that’s too expensive. In Australia it’s very available on line, tell me if it’s not so in Namibia.
I wonder how the African Smiles have worked?
OK, in the meantime I have seen it on the drone footage - they worked well.
England
Funny how at the beginning when you started to talk about the shallow pocket being in a straight line and not in a fish scale pattern, I thought yeah you’re right they are all in a straight line but as soon as you moved into them and change the point of view and the camera angle they suddenly all appeared in a fish scale pattern. So who right? 😂
14:00 I understand your frustration, we have the same problem here. But: communication is a very difficult thing, and especially cross cultural communication. They probably only got 20% of what you were saying in the first place and then where heavily influenced by their cultural thinking on the way.
I found that the better way to teach them is to let them make mistakes and then look at the differences between what you taught them and what they do normally after the effects become visible. Or make a little song that can be sung together while digging those pits.
Trying to teach them the way you were taught will only lead to more frustration, try new ways. More practicable ways, visible, singable etc. And expect years to pass before they get it.
13:30 🌿🌿1. Get a water plastic bottle irrigation system for every hole th-cam.com/video/NJQeHGwKf0U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8lt4On2sUNwNsp0R
2. Or something like this th-cam.com/video/BiujnOzZndM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tRk2cQWm_Fk9nBEJ
I laughed at your wet week, it is a pretty common occurence here in parts of NZ. I am pretty impressed with how things are looking. Don't blame Lucas, he has centuries of tradition behind him, and permaculture is a pretty hard concept to adapt to. I am trying no dig and cut and drop in my veg patch, but it also looks untidy which hurts my need for tidiness. And pea straw mulch drive me crazy because the birds love to toss it around everywhere.....
I was raised that chop and drop was "tidy" vs scraping away and "wasting" good carbon in landfills.😅 I know a guy who has your same problem and he had such difficulty growing things because he always scraped up and threw away free material then he would buy stuff at the store. Its sad really.
@leelindsay5618 bags of potting mix are always sterilized to kill the weeds in them, unfortunately kills any microbes and enzymes also. Looks pretty though.
For the erosion around the tires, you need to slow the water, a one rock dam would likely be the best start. a single layer of rocks so they all sit at roughly the same height, so the water fall onto the rock and dissipates it's energy on the rock instead of the soil.
th-cam.com/video/qvrp6qRvYbo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/hBCUeQbfFgY/w-d-xo.html