I also made the experience of flying aluminum profile on the mitre saw. At work I had to cut around 100 pcs, handsaw was no option. My learnings for the mitre saw were: - use a mitre saw blade with tooth geometry made for aluminum, reduces chance of kickback - clamp your workpeace down, keep, your hands away from the blade - small offcuts have the highest chance of launching, wait for the blade to come to a still stand before lifting the blade after the cut was made - a zero clearance insert keeps small pieces from getting pinched between the blade and maschiene body -adjust the fence for a small fence gap / install a zero clearance fence, to prevent getting small pieces pinched between blade and fence Pinching gets things flying! Other options: - Cross cut sled on the table saw - Bandsaws with metal blades - Recip Saw with metal blade, piece clamped down on table / in vice - Jigsaw with metal blade, piece clamped down as well - and if you really don't feel comfortable with metal on power tools use a hacksaw, there is no shame, being safe is priority
I've used an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade, and my new favorite is my 3" multi-material saw with a metal cutting disk. PS Clamp the track down and make the cut as close to the supporting surface as possible to reduce vibration that will make the cut rough.
@3:27...turn off the brake on your SawStop and grab your miter gauge. The table saw will cut it just fine. I personally have a cheap blade for cutting aluminum but really you can cut it with the blade you have in the saw. Carbide is WAY harder and you aren't cutting a lot so dulling won't be that big a deal. Make sure you blow out the cabinet well to get any chips out. Those could set off the brake later...ask me how I know :)
Black and blue looks cool together, I don’t have a drill press so I’m glad you made one for yourself Enjoy some of that Canadian weather this Sunday Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Awesome and thanks for sharing Cliff. The images and your drill press table look great. I will highlight your work in my weekly woodworking newsletter. Have a positive day!
You should find and watch the many vids on table saw NO NO'S. Because, you did one at the start of your video. Don't forget, people are taking your advice and seeing your methods. Awesome table though!
@@standishwoodstory Cross cut with the fence touching your work. You could have the whole panel kick back. Build a cross cut sled or at least use a mitre gauge with a sacrificial fence (meaning longer). Stay safe/Be you
Thank you but it’s actually a bench top model, maybe my picture is deceiving 😂 - I also made a rolling cabinet to put it on. It’s my first drill press so just learning about the speeds, do you find you change yours often or leave it as is?
@@standishwoodstory Re watched I see that is a big bench top one with features of a stationary 😀 I don't change speeds often, I would like to run the forstner bits lower than lowest speed of 630.
Good advice, I don’t yet personally have a cross cut sled made, and I would have to deactivate my safety features to use my table saw to cut aluminum (sawstop) but sounds like this would work great. Thanks for sharing!
good work, any reason you didn't want to use a laminate top? While it works with a clamp, not sure if there's a easier way to hold it and remove it. All in all, might be building one myself, as I don't like my tiny cast iron top either :)
@@standishwoodstoryok, saw another shortly after yours that did a laminate top. Gonna build mine based on yours but i'll add laminate with the track too :)
Recently a guy sold me his drill press, a drill press table and a bench grinder all for $100. I turned around and sold the bench grinder for $80 and kept the drill press and table. My best deal ever on a tool! I don't know the King Canada brand. I wonder what it is comparable to in the States?
That is the way to do it John, love it! I’m not sure about the drill press but I know when I got my King Jointer my research showed it was all the same parts as what makes up the Grizzly so perhaps that’s the same for the drill press as we do not have the brand Grizzly offered for sale here in Canada.
Heads up… I’ve watched a cpl of your table saw videos…Your habit of pushing perpendicular long narrow pieces of plywood through your tablesaw on the LEFT side of the blade is a very dangerous practice because the “keeper” can get wedged between the fence and the blade, resulting in a mega kickback. It’s a good thing you have a SawStop, because that kind of kickback can suck your feed hand into the blade far faster than you can react. My uncle, aa 50 yr pro cabinetmaker lost half of his right hand in the exact same accident. He knew better but got sloppy/tired. (He also chopped off his thumb with a tablesaw sled, but that’s another story) ALWAYS push down, forward, and toward your fence with your right hand, working ONLY between the fence and the blade . The large piece on the left of the blade should be fully supported and allowed to cut free. It’s OK to use your left hand to steady the waste and push it away at the end of the cut, but it should not be the hand driving the cut through. Stay safe.
@HBSuccess I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment, it left me puzzled and had me examine my last several videos to review my habits. As you can see in my videos I am always using a push pad, push stick or a micro gripper - safety is my #1 priority in the shop and as I am far from a professional I am always learning, and arguably I have made many mistakes along the way that I try to highlight and share in order to help fellow newer woodworkers hopefully avoid these mistakes, so I truly do appreciate this safety advice. I believe what you are referring to is that on occasions, I’ve used my left hand to still guide the piece that will be cut off past the point of blade entry, which runs the risk of the off cut being pushed back into the saw blade. I found this great video done by Katz Moses that better explains it in a visual way (for anyone else who is reading this and wondering what this refers too). So again thank you for sharing and I will be keeping this in mind going forward. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkx18c3azDJlc0m62SV1AnmyScU-AidD1xA?si=H5l62hDe3Kyqwq2Q
![⚡[DIY] Just the perfect drill press table / woodworking](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zBrgcXnROHQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The right tool for the right job! Any recommendations on how to better cut T-Trak?
I also made the experience of flying aluminum profile on the mitre saw. At work I had to cut around 100 pcs, handsaw was no option.
My learnings for the mitre saw were:
- use a mitre saw blade with tooth geometry made for aluminum, reduces chance of kickback
- clamp your workpeace down, keep, your hands away from the blade
- small offcuts have the highest chance of launching, wait for the blade to come to a still stand before lifting the blade after the cut was made
- a zero clearance insert keeps small pieces from getting pinched between the blade and maschiene body
-adjust the fence for a small fence gap / install a zero clearance fence, to prevent getting small pieces pinched between blade and fence
Pinching gets things flying!
Other options:
- Cross cut sled on the table saw
- Bandsaws with metal blades
- Recip Saw with metal blade, piece clamped down on table / in vice
- Jigsaw with metal blade, piece clamped down as well
- and if you really don't feel comfortable with metal on power tools use a hacksaw, there is no shame, being safe is priority
I've used an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade, and my new favorite is my 3" multi-material saw with a metal cutting disk.
PS Clamp the track down and make the cut as close to the supporting surface as possible to reduce vibration that will make the cut rough.
@3:27...turn off the brake on your SawStop and grab your miter gauge. The table saw will cut it just fine. I personally have a cheap blade for cutting aluminum but really you can cut it with the blade you have in the saw. Carbide is WAY harder and you aren't cutting a lot so dulling won't be that big a deal. Make sure you blow out the cabinet well to get any chips out. Those could set off the brake later...ask me how I know :)
I like using a cordless bandsaw for cutting metal things like pipe and track.
I bought a used drill press a couple months ago, need to make this!!
It is so useful, and a quick project, highly recommend making one 🙃
Second time watching this video and it's still a great project. Thanks for sharing
Thanks again! 3rd times a charm;)
Black and blue looks cool together, I don’t have a drill press so I’m glad you made one for yourself
Enjoy some of that Canadian weather this Sunday
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Thank you, we have lots of snow now, perfect weather for staying indoors and building :)
You can use 3/4" plywood with threaded inserts or T-Nuts for holding the T-Track down.
That is a great piece of advice, thanks!
Thanks going to try this with my bench top drill. Will make modifications to fit.
Sounds great, happy building :)
Nice job!! I emailed you a couple of pictures of my table. I cut the T-Trak with my miter saw and just go slow.
Awesome and thanks for sharing Cliff. The images and your drill press table look great. I will highlight your work in my weekly woodworking newsletter. Have a positive day!
Use a grinder with a cutoff wheel for cutting the track
Thank you for the tip, good idea.
Hmmm....that is a good idea. Thanks!
Cool project! Now I just need a drill press😂
It took me a while too, now I’m finding all kind of projects I’m using it for!
Very helpful! Thanks for sharinng
Glad it was helpful!
Good job, T-track girl :)
I shoot for the stars. Hence forth, I shall be known as "T-Track Queen"!!! :)
@@standishwoodstory Thats the spirit, besides freezing winter, love it ♥️
bonne et heureuse année et plein de nouvelles créations patrick
Happy new year to you as well 🎉
Merci! Bonne année à toi aussi !!!
You should find and watch the many vids on table saw NO NO'S. Because, you did one at the start of your video. Don't forget, people are taking your advice and seeing your methods.
Awesome table though!
I am always willing to learn and to improve. What was my "NO NO"?
@@standishwoodstory Cross cut with the fence touching your work. You could have the whole panel kick back. Build a cross cut sled or at least use a mitre gauge with a sacrificial fence (meaning longer).
Stay safe/Be you
Husband says cut it with a demurely with cut off wheels
I’ve never even heard of a “demurely” - what is it?
Nice
😊 thanks
Congrats on getting floor model.. I used to have one switched to 8" bench , I miss the lower speeds of what floor did :(
Thank you but it’s actually a bench top model, maybe my picture is deceiving 😂 - I also made a rolling cabinet to put it on. It’s my first drill press so just learning about the speeds, do you find you change yours often or leave it as is?
@@standishwoodstory Re watched I see that is a big bench top one with features of a stationary 😀 I don't change speeds often, I would like to run the forstner bits lower than lowest speed of 630.
Cut your T Track with your table saw and a cross cut sled. I found that was the best way for me.
Good advice, I don’t yet personally have a cross cut sled made, and I would have to deactivate my safety features to use my table saw to cut aluminum (sawstop) but sounds like this would work great. Thanks for sharing!
Do drill presses require any special power or do they run off of standard 110V? Thanks for the vid by the way😊
Some may, but the one I have does not. Thanks for watching!
Как всегда отличная работа👏
Thank you so much, I appreciate your support!
good work, any reason you didn't want to use a laminate top? While it works with a clamp, not sure if there's a easier way to hold it and remove it. All in all, might be building one myself, as I don't like my tiny cast iron top either :)
Nope no reason other then I wanted to use scraps I had on hand 😊
@@standishwoodstoryok, saw another shortly after yours that did a laminate top. Gonna build mine based on yours but i'll add laminate with the track too :)
Awesome have fun building :)
Never had a problem cutting aluminium on the mitre saw. Safety glasses a must, that coming from someone who usually doesn't wear them
🤓 are key for sure! Thanks for sharing. Maybe one day I’ll be brave enough to give it a go, I just always think it will fly back at me.
Recently a guy sold me his drill press, a drill press table and a bench grinder all for $100. I turned around and sold the bench grinder for $80 and kept the drill press and table. My best deal ever on a tool! I don't know the King Canada brand. I wonder what it is comparable to in the States?
That is the way to do it John, love it! I’m not sure about the drill press but I know when I got my King Jointer my research showed it was all the same parts as what makes up the Grizzly so perhaps that’s the same for the drill press as we do not have the brand Grizzly offered for sale here in Canada.
Peccato che siamo lontani....sono un falegname 🤗
That’s a great trade to be in :)
👍💯💯👍
Thanks for Watching!
Heads up… I’ve watched a cpl of your table saw videos…Your habit of pushing perpendicular long narrow pieces of plywood through your tablesaw on the LEFT side of the blade is a very dangerous practice because the “keeper” can get wedged between the fence and the blade, resulting in a mega kickback. It’s a good thing you have a SawStop, because that kind of kickback can suck your feed hand into the blade far faster than you can react. My uncle, aa 50 yr pro cabinetmaker lost half of his right hand in the exact same accident. He knew better but got sloppy/tired. (He also chopped off his thumb with a tablesaw sled, but that’s another story) ALWAYS push down, forward, and toward your fence with your right hand, working ONLY between the fence and the blade . The large piece on the left of the blade should be fully supported and allowed to cut free. It’s OK to use your left hand to steady the waste and push it away at the end of the cut, but it should not be the hand driving the cut through. Stay safe.
@HBSuccess I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment, it left me puzzled and had me examine my last several videos to review my habits. As you can see in my videos I am always using a push pad, push stick or a micro gripper - safety is my #1 priority in the shop and as I am far from a professional I am always learning, and arguably I have made many mistakes along the way that I try to highlight and share in order to help fellow newer woodworkers hopefully avoid these mistakes, so I truly do appreciate this safety advice. I believe what you are referring to is that on occasions, I’ve used my left hand to still guide the piece that will be cut off past the point of blade entry, which runs the risk of the off cut being pushed back into the saw blade. I
found this great video done by Katz Moses that better explains it in a visual way (for anyone else who is reading this and wondering what this refers too). So again thank you for sharing and I will be keeping this in mind going forward. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkx18c3azDJlc0m62SV1AnmyScU-AidD1xA?si=H5l62hDe3Kyqwq2Q
Great content, subbed!
Thanks @Jonesey and glad you enjoyed the content! I have many more videos on route🚀