MM x QWK Challenger Mk3 Standard vs Pro Max comparison and which one should you get?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- An in-depth of sharing my thoughts on both the standard and Pro Max version of the Mk3.
I discussed the differences between the two and what I think about them after playing around with both Standard and Pro Max for a couple of months.
Add on notes:
1. The Mk3 Standard gearbox are also much less complicated than the Pro Max, less wire, less contact points, less thing to go wrong.
2. The Mk3 Pro Max has an anti-jam detection system to help keep the system safe when a jam occur. But this can also another fault point, as mentioned in my older video.
I bought the MK3 pro max, because it's worth spending the extra, well worth paying the extra I love it
Same. Nylon outer, metal gear box, I don’t worry about durability at all. Metal mag release is nice too. Then the bolt lock. Literally get it just for the bolt lock
Hello Darren, I was wondering if you had any issues with your model? I have been looking to get my hands on one and have discovered some of the early models had a number of issues.
@@ruzer1514 my mj3 pro no issues but u gave to be careful to cock and decock if u do break something monkey mods carry most of the spares. My qwk edge just make sure your battery is fully charged
i got my qwk edge. its awesome. i thought it came with a charger, had to buy one from amazon. thanks for the qwk edge tips. i cut some darts with suction to short length and haven't had a jam yet
Congratulation on your purchase! I'm sure you will enjoy every moment with the Edge, just make sure to be attentive while you use it, watch out for jam! Make sure you get at least a B4 balance charger for the battery!
@@monkeemods8393 yes definitely. if i purchase a mk 3 pro max can i get one all black?
Unfortunately there is no full black color for the Mk3 Pro Max.
Wish the ProMax was still available : /
My biggest gripe would be the strong spring in the magazine. This is probably the main cause of many jams and feeding issues for the Challenger Mk3.
Untrue, and it's actually the other way round. The rather stiff follower spring is a necessity for the Challenger Mk3 because of the fast cycling nature of the system. If the follower spring is weak, it can actually cause the system to jam more frequently, simply because the darts are not able to push up fast enough to match the speed of the pusher.
If you truly think that the stiff follower spring is the cause of jam, simply take the follower spring out and cut a few coil off and test it, then you come back and tell me if that reduced the jam in your Mk3 ;)
@@monkeemods8393 😆though it does cause the darts to pop out a few times as well as squish the darts out of shape.
Yeah that is unfortunately a downside of the stiff spring, so the darts you use must have a rather stiff foam. Otherwise, load your mag no more than 16 darts and it should be okay. Otherwise use the EPP darts and this wont be an issue at all lol
mag base extention fix this problem, and yes, the spring inside the mag is effing stiff. but the active dart corrector is the true fixer for me, zero jams for me months of abusing my mk3 pro max.
Walker Melissa Hernandez Larry Rodriguez Edward
Where can i buy the pro max ?
When starting to use the mk3, I just insert the mag, squeeze trigger once to chamber the first round and trigger again to fire.
Not sure why u want to trigger first before inserting the mag to prime, insert mag and manual pull release the charging handle then fire.
You can certainly do it that way if you wish to, there is no right or wrong way of chambering the dart so long as it works.
For some, we prefer to pull the charging handle manually to chamber the dart ourselves.
Hello just joined the channel. Nice informative content. Thank you. May I ask a question please sir? I have a Lynx printed parts are from Singapore specifically DigitOwl 3D who no longer does prints. I'm trying to figure out where to get the hardware kit for this . My concern is that I don't know if it's metric or imperial. Thanks for any help.
Please email us at admin@monkeemods.com, let's see if we can figure something out together :D
Can we have the STL files for the cheek rest? it's pretty dope on yr personal Mk3
Love the bodykit on that standard MK3. When do u guys plan to release them for sale. My money is ready!! Haha
In the near future these custom kit will be available for sale!
@@monkeemods8393 Hello! I was wondering if I could purchase a custom kit version of the Pro model or the standard model?
Can you share the power button mod? Its a feature really needed on this blaster
@Monkee Mods why are your postage costs so ridiculously high. Over $200 to ship this blaster to Sydney! I can get the Pro Max version from back raisins site for $70 postage.
We are sorry but there is nothing that we can do, these are what the courier services charges us to deliver it :/
Is there a way to convert a pro max back to standard (electrically)? My pro max board keep frying up one of the solenoid chip and not functioning
I have yet to hear anyone attempted that before but I don't see why that's not doable, you just need to replace the entire electrical system to the Standard's, particularly the chipboard.
If your Pro Max chipboard for the solenoid valve kept getting fried, there is a short somewhere in the system, I'd take a close look at the solenoid valve switch (the one exposed outside the gearbox).
@@monkeemods8393 guys, will removing both the the bolt lock solenoid and the jam detection switch interfere with the other operations of the blaster? for the solenoid, just removing the jst header from the from the control board, not removing the solenoid entirely.
Excellent instructional video, the MK3 isn't , pull out of the box stupid proof, but if you understand how it works , at this level you should have mechanical sympathy,these are high end blasters, you break it , it's pretty much you made a mistake 🤷, we all do lol
100% agreed with what you said!
@monkeemods hey I love your videos and I also have purchased the pro max. Question… sometimes when I deprime my blaster it doesn’t shoot the dart but it sounds like it deprimed. Am I doing something wrong or is there a fix?
Also, are those iron sights available on your sight? Because I wanted to get that or a red dot or laser
Thanks for liking the video!
Can you elaborate more when you say, when you deprime your blaster but it doesn't shoot out the dart? Are you sure you have one darts left in the barrel when you deprime? Or after you attempted to deprime with a dart in the barrel, it doesn't get shot out and stuck in the barrel?
These are the D.D iron sight, we do have them in our store but they are sold out at the moment. We have a great and even better alternative that suit the Mk3 profile better though, check it out here :
www.monkeemods.com/nerf/kublai-scalar-works-fixed-iron-sight
@@monkeemods8393 I'll test it today because I am pretty sure I've done it with and without a dart in it. In the beginning, it used to de-prime shooting a dart all the time. Also regarding maintenance.. should I lube it and open up the aluminum box and grease it after let's say 1k shots? I haven't had many issues with this blaster rather than my o ring getting shot out from where the rod pushes the dart. I replaced it with one of my Nexus pro o rings and it seems fine.
@@monkeemods8393 here I made a video describing what I meant th-cam.com/video/A5cJquzzZ3Y/w-d-xo.html
@@monkeemods8393 here I made a video describing what I mean… th-cam.com/video/A5cJquzzZ3Y/w-d-xo.html
@@naniwatiger2450 can you check the breech / barrel seal? i have used a nexus pro oring too during a game where my oring was caught on the darts and rolled off, the nexus pro oring does not give a good seal. you might need to get a 9x2 oring (9mm id / 2mm cross section) since getting a 10.82x1.78 oring thats originally used on the blaster is really hard.
Hey where did you get the hand guard, I’m interested in buying it
Hmm? I don't have any handguard installed on both the Mk3 displayed tho lol
Do either one of them have overheating issues?
I have not ran into any overheating issue with both my standard and Pro Max. However, it is not advisable to do mag dump on the Standard in a short period of time (for example, mag dumping 5 mags continuously in one go). This is because the heat dissipation is not ideal with the Nylon gearbox shell, it traps heat. But for regular usage, this is a non-issue.
On the other hand, on the Pro Max this is not an issue because of the aluminum Gearbox shell, it basically act as a huge heatsink for the motor lol.
Thanks for getting back to me. Definitely enjoy your videos and you've made my decision easier
Thank you very much sir and glad to be of help!