@@petescarport I used like 50/50 mix. But stopped doing that because the gear oil will foam up. Now I modify the valve. You can tighten the small nut at the bottom of the valve. And you can add washer spacers between the spring and the valve body. That helps a lot.
Thanks for the great video set on your Sprite build. I recently tackled service on all the lever dampers on my Sprite, and because I didn't want to have to replace the lid gaskets AND the oil was super crap and sticky, what I did was dump as much out as I could and then dump petrol in there and work it through, then dump that, and put a bit of oil and work that through, then dump, and finally fill. I also use motorcycle 20W fork oil from Lucas because it was easily available at my Canadian Tire outlet. Looking for some thoughts on my approach. So far, things seem much better than they were when I began.
You're welcome, glad you're enjoying them. I think your approach is a viable one. I was able to source fluids for British cars in Edmonton (I'm in Calgary) so drop by there if needed when we visit family that live in Edmonton.
Got cut off before I finished - everything you've done is fine. Measure the angle the damper is fitted when in the car and replicate that in a soft jawed vice. Open the fill hole and work the damper arm very slowly till all bubbles pop and top up to the level of the bottom thread. PTFE or apply sealant to the the bolt. There should be no lost movement. If you're doing both you can add a weight to the arm and time the full drop then adjust the oil viscosities till you have a matching pair.
@@EconoboxGarage I have rebuilt more than a few of this style shock over the years, and you do have them over full. The bulb at the top is your expansion area, and just like Fergus mentioned, all the way full it will blow seals out. Once you have them on the car take out the top plug and let the excess run out at ride height and you will be fine.
@@EconoboxGarage After I asked, I saw somewhere else that there aren't seals or cups on the pistons, that it's just tolerance between the parts. I don't know for absolute sure yet.
Great work Ian!
All the best for your build from the land down under and the team at All Lever Shock Absorbers 👍
Thanks for your help Steven, I really appreciate it.
👍👍Good description Ian! Very useful.
Thanks Gareth. Glad you found it helpful.
Great info and thanks for sharing. Great job on the clean and refill as well!
Thanks Joseph, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent video
Thanks you. Glad you liked it.
Oh exactly how I did my front shocks. But I used a mixture of motorcycle fork oil and 90 at gear oil to get a stiffer shock.
Thanks Mike. This fluid is a bit stiffer... there is a shocker fluid #1 from the same supplier that is close to stock.
What ratio did you make your mix. I’m looking for a stiff shock. Thank you
@@petescarport I used like 50/50 mix. But stopped doing that because the gear oil will foam up. Now I modify the valve. You can tighten the small nut at the bottom of the valve. And you can add washer spacers between the spring and the valve body. That helps a lot.
Thanks very informative post not described in the Austin healey workshop manual
You're welcome Fred! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ian ,splendid,I will replicate on my Kermit frogeye...
Your are most welcome.
Thanks for the great video set on your Sprite build. I recently tackled service on all the lever dampers on my Sprite, and because I didn't want to have to replace the lid gaskets AND the oil was super crap and sticky, what I did was dump as much out as I could and then dump petrol in there and work it through, then dump that, and put a bit of oil and work that through, then dump, and finally fill. I also use motorcycle 20W fork oil from Lucas because it was easily available at my Canadian Tire outlet. Looking for some thoughts on my approach. So far, things seem much better than they were when I began.
You're welcome, glad you're enjoying them. I think your approach is a viable one. I was able to source fluids for British cars in Edmonton (I'm in Calgary) so drop by there if needed when we visit family that live in Edmonton.
Nice work
Thanks for the visit
Was just thinking, "that arm needs a shot of paint". I'm sure it'll come out just fine.
Will he paint it or will he not? All the more reason to come back for the next episode :)
@@EconoboxGarage lol, paint it red!
@@mundanestuff "I see a red lever arm shock, and I want to paint it black..." LOL!
I painted my shocks gloss black. Just so you know, lol
You may have overfilled . If you fill beyond the screw point in the upper chamber when at the correct working angle, excess oil will burst the seals
Thanks for this. I will double check before putting the car on the road.
Got cut off before I finished - everything you've done is fine. Measure the angle the damper is fitted when in the car and replicate that in a soft jawed vice. Open the fill hole and work the damper arm very slowly till all bubbles pop and top up to the level of the bottom thread. PTFE or apply sealant to the the bolt. There should be no lost movement. If you're doing both you can add a weight to the arm and time the full drop then adjust the oil viscosities till you have a matching pair.
@@EconoboxGarage I have rebuilt more than a few of this style shock over the years, and you do have them over full. The bulb at the top is your expansion area, and just like Fergus mentioned, all the way full it will blow seals out. Once you have them on the car take out the top plug and let the excess run out at ride height and you will be fine.
Thank you @shvrdavid and @FergusPol. I will definitely check this before putting the car on the road. A bit of extra material for an upcoming video!
I'm sure I saw the shim fall off, I stuck mine on with the tiniest dab of grease
Thanks Steve. I rewatched the video to make sure and I'm pretty sure that the shim is in place.
Do you know how to refurbish the pivot bushings and seals?
I do not. Time will tell whether I'll have to learn how to do it!
The bolts holding the lever shock absorbers to the bulkhead break. They are not big/strong enough.
I've not had any issues with mine. I'll keep an eye on them though, thanks.
So are there no rubber parts inside the shock to be replaced?
I'm not sure to be honest. I seem to recall there is one on the brass nut for the valve but it was in great shape so didn't replace it.
@@EconoboxGarage After I asked, I saw somewhere else that there aren't seals or cups on the pistons, that it's just tolerance between the parts. I don't know for absolute sure yet.