The Ultimate Guide to Sealing Foam Props and Costumes - Prop: Shop

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
  • The complete list of materials and a chart comparing them can be found on our website!
    punishedprops.c...
    Skip to the part in the video on:
    No Sealing 1:40
    Spray Paint 3:49
    Rubber 4:44
    PVA Glues 6:59
    Plasti Dip 9:35
    Epoxies 11:03
    Urethane 13:22
    Combinations 15:18
    Learn more about foam armor and prop making in the Foamsmith books!
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ความคิดเห็น • 545

  • @DaedalusProps
    @DaedalusProps 8 ปีที่แล้ว +273

    I get so many people calling me insane for using a blow torch.
    I mean I am insane and they are right, but hey dude, it works.

    • @CazM
      @CazM 8 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      For sealing the foam before priming and painting?

    • @quietrioter
      @quietrioter 6 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      Heat sealing the most metal way....maybe using lava

    • @lonelyrebel_
      @lonelyrebel_ 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      i use a candle

    • @jackneiner7322
      @jackneiner7322 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      You guys are doing it all wrong, you need to just fly straight to the surface of the sun

  • @brennenhalliwell4632
    @brennenhalliwell4632 ปีที่แล้ว +28

    I am not a costume designer, but rather an architecture student. This video was extremely helpful to understand how to cover my foam architectural models!

  • @EvilTedSmith
    @EvilTedSmith 8 ปีที่แล้ว +228

    OMG! Your best video ever!

    • @toebeansvideos
      @toebeansvideos 8 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      Thanks Ted :)

    • @linkpie
      @linkpie 8 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      You guys rock so much! You too TED! Made a Arthur Knights of Justice two years ago and making a Ike cosplay for AWA in a week using a lot of the methods you guys recommend! If you are ever nearby, let us know. Love to visit and show off what you guys technically helped to create

    • @EvilTedSmith
      @EvilTedSmith 8 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      Thank you for watching our videos!

  • @juliesczesny90
    @juliesczesny90 7 ปีที่แล้ว +37

    I saw someone use PlastiDip on EVA foam. She showed you could get the wrinkles out with a heatgun, at your destination. I've not seen anything else do this, thought I'd mention it. You all rock!

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว +14

      Yeah that was our pal Kamui, she's super clever! =D

  • @shizusaki8
    @shizusaki8 ปีที่แล้ว +44

    since i keep coming back to this video i made a timestamp list (mostly for myself but maybe it'll be useful to someone!)
    1:09 *EVA FOAM*
    1:41 *NO SEALING PRODUCT*
    2:08 heat sealing
    2:21 paint
    3:51 spray paint
    *RUBBERS*
    4:45 latex rubber
    6:16 neoprene
    7:00 *PVA GLUES*
    wood glue, flexbond, mod podge
    9:37 *PLASTIDIP* (and flexidip)
    11:05 *EPOXIES*
    xtc-3d, epsilon
    12:53 epsilon pro
    13:23 *URETHANES*
    smoothcast 300
    14:03 urecoat
    15:19 C-C-C-C-COMBO

  • @GeektoStudios
    @GeektoStudios 8 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    This is now my favourite video.
    I'm coming back to this everytime I grab my heat gun and floor foam

  • @MegaBlackrose67
    @MegaBlackrose67 7 ปีที่แล้ว +174

    Some of these seals, like plasti-dip, can have the wrinkles removed by applying some heat even after being painted. not all of them though. KamuiCosplay has a good video that shows how some of these seals react to stress and if they can be fixed with heat

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว +33

      Yeah Kamui did a great job showing how to fix some wrinkles. =D

    • @rafa4614
      @rafa4614 7 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      PlastiDip ftw

  • @mckennamonheim2249
    @mckennamonheim2249 8 ปีที่แล้ว +77

    BILL (and everyone) I HAVE ANOTHER AMAZING AND CHEAP WAY TO SEAL FOAM!!! There is an acrylic medium called GAC 900. it is a medium that you mix with acrylic paint and it makes it VERY flexible, I use it all the time now

    • @severinsuveren5117
      @severinsuveren5117 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      McKenna Monheim noice

    • @terrahbruner
      @terrahbruner 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The word GAC makes me think of webkinz. Thanks for the tipp

    • @SynthornCosplay
      @SynthornCosplay 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi I have some questions about this stuff. I’ve never seen it used on foam, only on shoes/shirts. Does it allow for more paint to go on top of it after it dries? Is it toxic as they say? And do you have any videos demonstrating how the process works on foam?

  • @rodline9027
    @rodline9027 8 ปีที่แล้ว +36

    Awesome video! Great information that everyone who uses EVA should watch.

  • @javakat343
    @javakat343 5 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    This is AMAZINGLY comprehensive. Thank you! I was shocked that you included Urecoat, which is what I have lying around, so I apreciate your thoughts on it!

  • @ZacHiggins
    @ZacHiggins 8 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Just when I think you guys can't get any better, you go and put out this video! Great job, so much information, and the outtakes were worth a million bucks!!

  • @danny71737
    @danny71737 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Finally a FULL description with a ton of examples

  • @monsterslovetacos2812
    @monsterslovetacos2812 8 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    We are just starting out on foamsmithing and were curious about this. We went out just today and got Plastidip and I think it's a good choice for the things we're making for Halloween. Thanks for the information! -Casey

  • @FrozenGuineaPig
    @FrozenGuineaPig 8 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That tiny bottle of Urecoat is just too precious.
    Thank you for making this video though, it is super helpful!

  • @zenku41
    @zenku41 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Thank you very much for this video, I'm barely starting on the EVA prop making world and this was very educational!

  • @barhamitzvah
    @barhamitzvah 8 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    I LOOOOOVE this video so much! I really like the chart you made, too! Terrific idea and I appreciate all the work you and Brit put in for this video!

  • @AnarchoFuturist
    @AnarchoFuturist 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for everything you do! I bought both your books and I'm in the process of converting my garage into a prop/costume workshop.

  • @pygmybugs
    @pygmybugs 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    Just for reference, it's not super uncommon to be allergic to neoprene. Less so than latex (although I'm allergic to both because ...special?), but it's something to watch out for, especially if you're doing a commission for someone you don't know or something. If someone has issues with contact cements like Barge (which are neoprene based), it's likely that neoprene will also irritate.

  • @partyhatlion
    @partyhatlion 8 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Hey guys! I have a tendency to do very light coats of Plastidip, leaving a bumpy finish, and I just wanted to note that while it sands horribly, I've had a lot of success smoothing the texture using VM&P Naphtha (respirator required!) and a gloved finger.

  • @marcomarterer7232
    @marcomarterer7232 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    On solid props i have tried waterwashable UV resin. I like the hard surface, the sandability and the fast and total control over the curing process.

  • @8kowwife
    @8kowwife 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've been running my own experiments and this video is super helpful. There are a few methods here that I've never seen before.

  • @1ManOnFir3
    @1ManOnFir3 8 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Bill I just discovered the best way ever to seal a paint job but you know more than me so I want to share it. It's called Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethene. It comes in both spray and brush on, and different finishes. It's flexible and VERY durable, and probably could be used to seal foam too but I haven't tried it. It is similar to floor wax (but way better.)

  • @CazM
    @CazM 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I started out using school glue thinned with water, progressed to Plastidip, and now go back and forth between wood glue for rigid pieces i know won't flex, plastidip for parts that need a bit of flex to them, and fabric paint medium mixed with wood glue with something in between.
    No one perfect primer works for everything, so showing all the pros and cons of each is so helpful. Thank you!

    • @CazM
      @CazM 8 ปีที่แล้ว

      Still screw up often, but hey that's how you learn...melted pink insulation foam board last week b/c I used contact cement. Should have googled first!

  • @jakdarkstar4629
    @jakdarkstar4629 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Excellent video. This is the best side by side comparison of products I've seen so far, and you answered several questions I had involving failures I've had with various products. Props to you! No pun intended. ;)

  • @Dach101
    @Dach101 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you so much for running these tests it Really helps ! Saves so much time you know what prop peeps need and supply every time !

  • @JasonPatz
    @JasonPatz 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    These kinds of videos are why the internet should have been invented! Yes, this video is that important. Well, maybe not, but it is very useful. Thanks for your time and effort.

  • @katanyookatavatin1703
    @katanyookatavatin1703 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    This video is great! Sealing foam is a huge problem for me. Now I know how to seal foam with different kind of products, and know the pros and cons. Thank you so much!!!

  • @scotadam
    @scotadam 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for this video. I've been looking for a comprehensive look at this issue for a while and you guys hit the nail on the head. I'll definitely be picking up that material sheet from your website that you talked about. Thanks again.

  • @SandmanLocke
    @SandmanLocke 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Timing for this is perfect. I'm in a time crunch for my con next week and this helped out a lot!

  • @KanuckStreams
    @KanuckStreams 8 ปีที่แล้ว +99

    *Saves to a playlist, copies URL into a notebook so he will never lose it.*

    • @CarlMateo
      @CarlMateo 7 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      Doctor Discord *Loses notebook*

    • @origamikira
      @origamikira 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      RIGHT, ty for reminding me :D

  • @whynotchaos
    @whynotchaos 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have been experimenting with UreCoat. I actually DYED the urethane with acrylic Jacquard brand paint!! Also for weathering, the top coat paint seems to adhere if you rub down the urethane with some acetone to "dry out" the oils that are in the urethane rubber, and scuffs it up.

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That's wicked cool! Thank you for sharing--we'll have to try that out. We did a UreCoat test with green and white opaque pigments and cast magic pearl powders mixed together. The result looks a bit like the Skyrim glass armor. So much to test!

    • @whynotchaos
      @whynotchaos 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Punished Props excited to see the results! Also I will be at the Pizza and Prop Makers dinner at DragonCon! I'm really hoping that my Urecoat-ed armor will turn out how i envision it!! Much to discuss.

  • @Stanurs3D
    @Stanurs3D 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    guys you are unbelievable, I am not watching video to learn only but I I've also fun. Thanks a lot from Europe..

  • @Max_Money_AWA
    @Max_Money_AWA 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    What an awesome video!!! I will be checking out a bunch of these things when I get around to making armor for an old D&D character. This will make things so much easier for me. Thank you

  • @lukasotter7970
    @lukasotter7970 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a fantastic guide! Thank you so very much in testing the many options for sealing Foam!

  • @i.am.adrian
    @i.am.adrian 8 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Excellent Breakdown! Really great work. Having used flexbond, PVA, Plasti-dip, Flexidip, Epsilon, and Angelus, I can verify your results. Many of your foam props have weathered, aged, or distressed looks to them, what would you recommend for a prop you want to look shiny and new?

  • @dianawhitcomb6132
    @dianawhitcomb6132 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've been looking for different ways to seal foam for my props and this video is perfect 😉 Thanks so much!

  • @DoctorBahnausSee
    @DoctorBahnausSee 8 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    finaly! thanks so much. i watched so many of your videos and was like "wait what? why is he useing x/y to seal it, the last time he was useing y/x"
    great video and sooo helpful! :)

  • @melissaquinn1463
    @melissaquinn1463 7 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! For doing the work, for assuming the expense of testing, for sharing what you've learned.

  • @ryankrammes8245
    @ryankrammes8245 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm gonna guess this video will continue to bring in views for a long time, great job!

  • @joshhaug7481
    @joshhaug7481 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I Was working in my fallout power armour and I couldn't find a video on how to seal it. Until you posted this
    So Thank you so much (:

  • @Its_mr_kai
    @Its_mr_kai 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Something to note about PVA glues, the wood glue especially but also mod podge will yellow over time. This is more of an issue if it's a top coat but it can discolor light and white paints painted over top. This is only an issue long term but if it's something you're going to display or use for years use archival bookbinding PVA instead. It won't discolor and it's a bit more flexible but it does cost a lot more and it's not water resistant like TiteBond 3.

  • @kurtgruber796
    @kurtgruber796 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This realy helps me a lot picking the right product for my ( in "Blueprint State") Armor. Many thx to both of you.

    • @budliv
      @budliv 8 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks guys!!! now I'm gonna end up spending even MORE money with smooth-on than I was originally planning. "the more you know"....the lighter your wallet gets lol. great video though. also I have been using rustoleum filler primer and then plasti-dip for props that don't need to bend and have gotten some great finishes. super smooth with enough sanding of course

  • @dsl145
    @dsl145 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video you guys!
    I think you covered everything very comprehensively... Looks like it would have taken a long time to go through all the testing.

  • @physastra4962
    @physastra4962 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is quite possibly the best video on you tube EVER!!! Between you guys and evil Ted I'm trying to make my son some mccree armour from overwatch. The tips in this video should be gold plated and hung on the wall! It's great. Thanks.

    • @physastra4962
      @physastra4962 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Punished Props yes please. Any help with finishing, sealing and painting would be awesome. Best combos, recommendations and just helpful stuff.

  • @JackRupert133
    @JackRupert133 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video as usual!
    For painting the urecoat, and urethane rubbers in general, check out Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
    Lay down a good coat of it and then paint with your preferred paints within the time specified on the can. Nothing really bonds to urethane rubber but the adhesion promoter really helps!

  • @Grimfaxe
    @Grimfaxe 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you guys!! This is an rediculusy good guide! And Im at this stage of my costume making right now so the timeing couldnt be better!!!

  • @sloandarkhorn44885
    @sloandarkhorn44885 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm relatively new to all of this stuff and I've used mostly PVA glue. this video was very helpful thanks!

  • @cricket_price4633
    @cricket_price4633 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    That you so much for including products people with a latex allergy can use for props. It has been a real search to find something that works as good as latex, but not actually have latex in it. :)

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No problem! Happy to help!

  • @piebeisel
    @piebeisel 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a great video guys, very well done. Also, props to the Evil Ted shirt Brit!

  • @NixxNikoli
    @NixxNikoli 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    So so useful! Thanks for this video guys, really helped me decide on what to use to finish my shield project

  • @wesker2007
    @wesker2007 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very Informative! I've been using Weldwood Contact Cement (green quart) followed by Plasti-Dip

  • @barnowl012001
    @barnowl012001 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    you guys have definitely hit all the areas that I've been looking for on this subject is was just thinking this the other day so I could work on my Mandalorian rifle thank you bill and brit👍👍👍

  • @joshuacrandall4155
    @joshuacrandall4155 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing guide Bill and Brit! Thank you so much! Also, I love your books!!

  • @isaacpopp
    @isaacpopp 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Incredible reference video for foam crafting.
    Evil Ted said it all below.

  • @Giyvin
    @Giyvin 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    been watching your videos for awhile now, this video convinced me I have to fallow your works and sub. Thank you for this test run on all the ways to seal foam. Informative videos like this is what the community needs. Would be cool to see you guys @ SciFi On The Rock

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +Barrie Hall Thanks for sticking around. =)

    • @Giyvin
      @Giyvin 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      :D my pleasure.

  • @UwU_the_UwUer
    @UwU_the_UwUer 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    funnily enough I had gotten your books as christmas presents and I had found this video looking into more detail on sealing. I hadn't even realized that you were the same people until I saw the mass effect armor and I was like wait a minute...

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      HA! Awesome. Thanks and enjoy the books! =D

  • @KnoxsWorkshop
    @KnoxsWorkshop 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome and informative video :)
    I haven't used a wide range of materials to seal but my favourite for foam is PVA and then plasti-dip and for worbla its gesso and then mod podge :)

  • @markus5320
    @markus5320 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LIFE SAVER GOD BLESS THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      You're so very welcome! We're so glad you found it helpful!

  • @DaraDef
    @DaraDef 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    So far I've found that Flexbond is my favourite to use to seal foam before priming/painting:) It's a nice consistency (I add a tiny it of water to it), 2 - 3 layers and it's good to go (dries really fast too). I like that the foam is still very flexible (hence the name), and doesn't crack when dried.

  • @cleverbast594
    @cleverbast594 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    For things that I've covered with black Worbla I really like filler automotive primer. It sands beautifully!

  • @neonhoshi
    @neonhoshi 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is an amazing video. Super informative!

  • @munnyl7837
    @munnyl7837 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    OMG thank you so much for this, my education on TH-cam is complete

  • @jeremyhunt8920
    @jeremyhunt8920 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    This was excellent, and hugely helpful.

  • @dawnwayfinder
    @dawnwayfinder 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm relatively new to painting props, but I use an acrylic "binder" as undercoat before I start painting.
    Then I mix my paint with the binder.
    I have yet to experiment with finishing coats but I think I'll use some Mod Podge.

  • @lasarith2
    @lasarith2 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video, very informative, thanks Bill,Brittany 🙂

  • @BYGTraining
    @BYGTraining 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Let's say a fella like me wanted to make a hockey puck out of foam. What would be the best sealant to hold up to the rigors of being constantly beaten on? Looks are not an issue, I just want to make it last longer. That smooth-on sealant looked pretty thick and durable. What do you guys think?

  • @Lisargarza
    @Lisargarza 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow! Whole lotta info in one video- thanks!

  • @chrismapley7513
    @chrismapley7513 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    u guys r great I was wondering what to use now I know how much appreciated thank you

  • @JamesLFilms
    @JamesLFilms 8 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thanks! I'll have to try neoprene. I'm extremely allergic to latex. Which stinks!

  • @johnsmith-ku1er
    @johnsmith-ku1er 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for making this awesome Video and useful tutorial~
    I am propmakers from indonesia, and in here we always use Aqua prof or Roof Tile sealer, maybe you can try it~
    Thank you very much~

  • @MtnBadger
    @MtnBadger 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Try adhesion promoter (comes in a regular, paint-type spray can) before spraying your Krylon. Paint sticks great on plastic, rubber, wood... Any otherwise hard to paint surface.
    For anyone interested... There are actually "Ts" in the word "button." Somehow, they got lost in the last generation change. lol
    Great video, guys. This one took a lot of effort and time.

  • @erickozokas
    @erickozokas 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi! I just found your channel. I love your instructional videos. I like the idea of using the critter instead of brushing all of my coats. Can you recommend a small "hobby grade" compressor that would meet the needs of the critter when working on something like a set of armor? Keep the videos coming!

  • @damienbrand9422
    @damienbrand9422 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks so much!! You guys have read my mind - as I was pondering how to seal and pain my recently completed (first) shield :o)

  • @Samtagri
    @Samtagri 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Holy crap! Thank you for doing all this experimentation so the rest of us don’t have to

  • @leew5090
    @leew5090 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Since I'm on a pretty extreme budget, I generally use regular school glue, it acts just like Mod Podge but takes about six layers to be properly paintable

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great tip! Thanks for sharing.

  • @DrJonesCreations
    @DrJonesCreations 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    I didn't know mod podge could be sanded! I gotta try this out!! Thank you.

  • @jacobh707
    @jacobh707 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic job on this one! Thanks for this!!

  • @WarGamerGirl
    @WarGamerGirl 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, this was really super helpful!

  • @Younggunna737
    @Younggunna737 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    It's my first time making props and I made two cardboard prop hammers I'm using for my NYCC cosplay. This is an awesome video! But I was wondering if you had any advice on sealing cardboard? Thanks!

  • @PressXProps
    @PressXProps 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Bill! Great video, as always. I ran into a small problem with painting Plasti Dip just now. Last night I coated my foam with Plasti Dip and just now I tried to cover that with Krylon Colormaster (apparently Fusion doesn't exist any more) and I'm getting tiny holes where the Krylon doesn't want to cover. Like thousands of them. It looks kinda spongey. Have you ever encountered this before? Thanks!

  • @akahige9626
    @akahige9626 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks a lot, you answered many questions that I wasn't able to ask xD

  • @GamingDad63
    @GamingDad63 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video! :) Question: Have you made a video on the step before this? Like what to use when filling in seams and such to get a smooth surface. It would be nice if you could give a description of what you used as well since quite a few of these brands aren't sold here. However, if i know what stuff to ask for in the shop, they might point me in the right direction.

  • @stephanieschwartz5862
    @stephanieschwartz5862 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Really great and helpful info, Have you ever worked with Bondo Fiberglass on EVA foam, That is currently what I am looking into. The only think I know is that is you dont have a power sander, you will not get a smooth finish, But I have never really worked with it.

  • @MeatSim9
    @MeatSim9 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    When you started flexing that battle axe around I was screaming because I vastly underestimated the flexibility of that finish.

    • @MeatSim9
      @MeatSim9 8 ปีที่แล้ว

      i.imgur.com/F3TPFLa.gif

  • @linkdelodela
    @linkdelodela 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is the greatest guide eveeeeeer !

  • @GregAtlas
    @GregAtlas 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    You didn't mention whether the UraCoat was capable of being sanded or not. Also, how well does primer bond with it?
    Another thing I would like to see tested is some paint that would be found in stores like home depot. Glidden Diamond and Behr Premium or Behr Marquee being a couple examples, plus they can be custom pigmented. The examples I listed are also paint+primer so it might have some interesting advantages along with being 100% acrylic. One thing to note is that, according to my research, exterior paint usually has more pigment applied to it. I haven't tested any of it yet though due to lack of resources.
    Recently I came across a post where someone used book binder's glue (a type of PVA glue) and they achieved quite a nice finish for how flexible it was. I recently picked some up and will be doing some tests myself.
    How viable would it be to use urathane or polyurathane to stiffen the foam? If using this method, should I add fiberglass reinforcement since I'm already putting in the effort of coating with that type of resin? Does fiberglass laminate to EVA well?
    A suggestion for the next time you're working with epoxies or urathanes: Get a spray gun capable of being used with resins. I think you could get an even better finish if you did.
    Thanks.

  • @LAKster
    @LAKster 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great vid, this is going to help me loads in the future :D

  • @lpstynathedragon3264
    @lpstynathedragon3264 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    MY HEROES!!! You saved me.

  • @frozencrazytuna
    @frozencrazytuna 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Bill and Brittany, awesome video! VERY informative. Do you guys plan on doing a brief overview of the voice changer in your Mechanist costume?

  • @Porthias
    @Porthias 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing video thank you for the in depth information!

  • @MrJwfearman
    @MrJwfearman ปีที่แล้ว

    Very informative! What would you say for a large (4ft round) one-piece costume that goes over the head? Nothing moves, and I want it as durable as possible. Basically, it's a big hulking metal thing. I was going to make it out of fiberglass, but Eva, with a support structure, may be a better way to go.

  • @LadyHalfling
    @LadyHalfling 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic video. Really useful info.

  • @andrewstambaugh8030
    @andrewstambaugh8030 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just saw on kamuicosplay that you can use a heatgun to smooth out crinkles in plasti or flexi dip coated foam. Considering how fast it is to do that, you may want to try comparing them and possibly switch away from the latex.

  • @kerricaine
    @kerricaine 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i really like the translucent look you get from the eurethane. what if you were to coat the foam and paint it with a metallic silver first, and then put a tinted eurethane over it?

  • @greyjackal
    @greyjackal 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can someone stop me watching every damn video on this playlist? I need sleep :D

  • @FullThrottle1091
    @FullThrottle1091 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Neoprene being able to be sanded some is interesting. Do you know how well would it perform cold casting metal in place of using a resin?

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I'm not sure! I haven't ever tried to do that with it. I think it would definitely be worth some experiments! Our employee Paige has been able to cold cast rubber pads on the bottoms of the hooves she makes, but can't buff it to a shine because of the texture, so that's worth considering.

  • @bcostell69
    @bcostell69 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant video , very informative

  • @amandajones8841
    @amandajones8841 ปีที่แล้ว

    Love the rigour. I'm just about to start on foam armour, and trying to work out if plastidip is worth the $40 per can it costs here.

  • @derelict7222
    @derelict7222 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    More videos like this!! haha. Very informative. Awesome vid

  • @madmac66
    @madmac66 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent video. Subbed. Glad I saw this before dropping the dough on Epsilon. It’s brushable yes, but way thicker than I expected. I can use a cheaper generic epoxy resin brand in that case. Wonder if you ever use EPS on your props. Would these sealants work on that. I know the epoxy resin will, but what about urethane or latex?

    • @punishedprops
      @punishedprops  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm not sure about the EPS, but I have used latex. Epsilon essentially is a resin for sealing and coating.

    • @madmac66
      @madmac66 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Punished Props Academy thx, yeah I only ever seen people use resin to seal EPS. Just wondered if other stuff would without melting it. Stuff is not exactly cheap to experiment with