I am not a costume designer, but rather an architecture student. This video was extremely helpful to understand how to cover my foam architectural models!
since i keep coming back to this video i made a timestamp list (mostly for myself but maybe it'll be useful to someone!) 1:09 *EVA FOAM* 1:41 *NO SEALING PRODUCT* 2:08 heat sealing 2:21 paint 3:51 spray paint *RUBBERS* 4:45 latex rubber 6:16 neoprene 7:00 *PVA GLUES* wood glue, flexbond, mod podge 9:37 *PLASTIDIP* (and flexidip) 11:05 *EPOXIES* xtc-3d, epsilon 12:53 epsilon pro 13:23 *URETHANES* smoothcast 300 14:03 urecoat 15:19 C-C-C-C-COMBO
Some of these seals, like plasti-dip, can have the wrinkles removed by applying some heat even after being painted. not all of them though. KamuiCosplay has a good video that shows how some of these seals react to stress and if they can be fixed with heat
I saw someone use PlastiDip on EVA foam. She showed you could get the wrinkles out with a heatgun, at your destination. I've not seen anything else do this, thought I'd mention it. You all rock!
BILL (and everyone) I HAVE ANOTHER AMAZING AND CHEAP WAY TO SEAL FOAM!!! There is an acrylic medium called GAC 900. it is a medium that you mix with acrylic paint and it makes it VERY flexible, I use it all the time now
Hi I have some questions about this stuff. I’ve never seen it used on foam, only on shoes/shirts. Does it allow for more paint to go on top of it after it dries? Is it toxic as they say? And do you have any videos demonstrating how the process works on foam?
You guys rock so much! You too TED! Made a Arthur Knights of Justice two years ago and making a Ike cosplay for AWA in a week using a lot of the methods you guys recommend! If you are ever nearby, let us know. Love to visit and show off what you guys technically helped to create
This is AMAZINGLY comprehensive. Thank you! I was shocked that you included Urecoat, which is what I have lying around, so I apreciate your thoughts on it!
Just for reference, it's not super uncommon to be allergic to neoprene. Less so than latex (although I'm allergic to both because ...special?), but it's something to watch out for, especially if you're doing a commission for someone you don't know or something. If someone has issues with contact cements like Barge (which are neoprene based), it's likely that neoprene will also irritate.
We are just starting out on foamsmithing and were curious about this. We went out just today and got Plastidip and I think it's a good choice for the things we're making for Halloween. Thanks for the information! -Casey
I started out using school glue thinned with water, progressed to Plastidip, and now go back and forth between wood glue for rigid pieces i know won't flex, plastidip for parts that need a bit of flex to them, and fabric paint medium mixed with wood glue with something in between. No one perfect primer works for everything, so showing all the pros and cons of each is so helpful. Thank you!
Just when I think you guys can't get any better, you go and put out this video! Great job, so much information, and the outtakes were worth a million bucks!!
Hey guys! I have a tendency to do very light coats of Plastidip, leaving a bumpy finish, and I just wanted to note that while it sands horribly, I've had a lot of success smoothing the texture using VM&P Naphtha (respirator required!) and a gloved finger.
Bill I just discovered the best way ever to seal a paint job but you know more than me so I want to share it. It's called Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethene. It comes in both spray and brush on, and different finishes. It's flexible and VERY durable, and probably could be used to seal foam too but I haven't tried it. It is similar to floor wax (but way better.)
These kinds of videos are why the internet should have been invented! Yes, this video is that important. Well, maybe not, but it is very useful. Thanks for your time and effort.
This video is great! Sealing foam is a huge problem for me. Now I know how to seal foam with different kind of products, and know the pros and cons. Thank you so much!!!
Something to note about PVA glues, the wood glue especially but also mod podge will yellow over time. This is more of an issue if it's a top coat but it can discolor light and white paints painted over top. This is only an issue long term but if it's something you're going to display or use for years use archival bookbinding PVA instead. It won't discolor and it's a bit more flexible but it does cost a lot more and it's not water resistant like TiteBond 3.
Excellent Breakdown! Really great work. Having used flexbond, PVA, Plasti-dip, Flexidip, Epsilon, and Angelus, I can verify your results. Many of your foam props have weathered, aged, or distressed looks to them, what would you recommend for a prop you want to look shiny and new?
Great video as usual! For painting the urecoat, and urethane rubbers in general, check out Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. Lay down a good coat of it and then paint with your preferred paints within the time specified on the can. Nothing really bonds to urethane rubber but the adhesion promoter really helps!
That you so much for including products people with a latex allergy can use for props. It has been a real search to find something that works as good as latex, but not actually have latex in it. :)
finaly! thanks so much. i watched so many of your videos and was like "wait what? why is he useing x/y to seal it, the last time he was useing y/x" great video and sooo helpful! :)
Excellent video. This is the best side by side comparison of products I've seen so far, and you answered several questions I had involving failures I've had with various products. Props to you! No pun intended. ;)
Try adhesion promoter (comes in a regular, paint-type spray can) before spraying your Krylon. Paint sticks great on plastic, rubber, wood... Any otherwise hard to paint surface. For anyone interested... There are actually "Ts" in the word "button." Somehow, they got lost in the last generation change. lol Great video, guys. This one took a lot of effort and time.
Thanks for this video. I've been looking for a comprehensive look at this issue for a while and you guys hit the nail on the head. I'll definitely be picking up that material sheet from your website that you talked about. Thanks again.
This is quite possibly the best video on you tube EVER!!! Between you guys and evil Ted I'm trying to make my son some mccree armour from overwatch. The tips in this video should be gold plated and hung on the wall! It's great. Thanks.
I'm relatively new to painting props, but I use an acrylic "binder" as undercoat before I start painting. Then I mix my paint with the binder. I have yet to experiment with finishing coats but I think I'll use some Mod Podge.
I have been experimenting with UreCoat. I actually DYED the urethane with acrylic Jacquard brand paint!! Also for weathering, the top coat paint seems to adhere if you rub down the urethane with some acetone to "dry out" the oils that are in the urethane rubber, and scuffs it up.
That's wicked cool! Thank you for sharing--we'll have to try that out. We did a UreCoat test with green and white opaque pigments and cast magic pearl powders mixed together. The result looks a bit like the Skyrim glass armor. So much to test!
Punished Props excited to see the results! Also I will be at the Pizza and Prop Makers dinner at DragonCon! I'm really hoping that my Urecoat-ed armor will turn out how i envision it!! Much to discuss.
So far I've found that Flexbond is my favourite to use to seal foam before priming/painting:) It's a nice consistency (I add a tiny it of water to it), 2 - 3 layers and it's good to go (dries really fast too). I like that the foam is still very flexible (hence the name), and doesn't crack when dried.
What an awesome video!!! I will be checking out a bunch of these things when I get around to making armor for an old D&D character. This will make things so much easier for me. Thank you
Thanks guys!!! now I'm gonna end up spending even MORE money with smooth-on than I was originally planning. "the more you know"....the lighter your wallet gets lol. great video though. also I have been using rustoleum filler primer and then plasti-dip for props that don't need to bend and have gotten some great finishes. super smooth with enough sanding of course
you guys have definitely hit all the areas that I've been looking for on this subject is was just thinking this the other day so I could work on my Mandalorian rifle thank you bill and brit👍👍👍
Since I'm on a pretty extreme budget, I generally use regular school glue, it acts just like Mod Podge but takes about six layers to be properly paintable
Awesome and informative video :) I haven't used a wide range of materials to seal but my favourite for foam is PVA and then plasti-dip and for worbla its gesso and then mod podge :)
funnily enough I had gotten your books as christmas presents and I had found this video looking into more detail on sealing. I hadn't even realized that you were the same people until I saw the mass effect armor and I was like wait a minute...
i really like the translucent look you get from the eurethane. what if you were to coat the foam and paint it with a metallic silver first, and then put a tinted eurethane over it?
I just saw on kamuicosplay that you can use a heatgun to smooth out crinkles in plasti or flexi dip coated foam. Considering how fast it is to do that, you may want to try comparing them and possibly switch away from the latex.
Thanks for making this awesome Video and useful tutorial~ I am propmakers from indonesia, and in here we always use Aqua prof or Roof Tile sealer, maybe you can try it~ Thank you very much~
I'm not sure! I haven't ever tried to do that with it. I think it would definitely be worth some experiments! Our employee Paige has been able to cold cast rubber pads on the bottoms of the hooves she makes, but can't buff it to a shine because of the texture, so that's worth considering.
Let's say a fella like me wanted to make a hockey puck out of foam. What would be the best sealant to hold up to the rigors of being constantly beaten on? Looks are not an issue, I just want to make it last longer. That smooth-on sealant looked pretty thick and durable. What do you guys think?
Great video! :) Question: Have you made a video on the step before this? Like what to use when filling in seams and such to get a smooth surface. It would be nice if you could give a description of what you used as well since quite a few of these brands aren't sold here. However, if i know what stuff to ask for in the shop, they might point me in the right direction.
You didn't mention whether the UraCoat was capable of being sanded or not. Also, how well does primer bond with it? Another thing I would like to see tested is some paint that would be found in stores like home depot. Glidden Diamond and Behr Premium or Behr Marquee being a couple examples, plus they can be custom pigmented. The examples I listed are also paint+primer so it might have some interesting advantages along with being 100% acrylic. One thing to note is that, according to my research, exterior paint usually has more pigment applied to it. I haven't tested any of it yet though due to lack of resources. Recently I came across a post where someone used book binder's glue (a type of PVA glue) and they achieved quite a nice finish for how flexible it was. I recently picked some up and will be doing some tests myself. How viable would it be to use urathane or polyurathane to stiffen the foam? If using this method, should I add fiberglass reinforcement since I'm already putting in the effort of coating with that type of resin? Does fiberglass laminate to EVA well? A suggestion for the next time you're working with epoxies or urathanes: Get a spray gun capable of being used with resins. I think you could get an even better finish if you did. Thanks.
Yeah, setting this one aside. Fortunately my starting project is just a found parts Portal gun for a 12-year-old who will likely be easily impressed, so my supply of glues and spray paints will do. Wood or spray glue and high gloss Rustoleum 2x paint+primer that works on plastic are my picks, once I heat seal the pieces. I'm testing the combination already on a scrap. But it's good to know what's most durable for armor. It's something we've talked about doing for years, making one kind of armor or another, and if I ever do I want it wrinkle free.
I usually use car filling paste that stuff is super cheap if you have a lot of projects, also it bonds really well to foam and paint and when it cracks its practically invisible and doesent wrincle and it can be repaired as new yith the same material quite easely however it needs a lot of sanding, its not really flexible, adds some weight and it is not heat friendly you cant just let your pieces outside on the sun all day, here in my country I use like 2 dollars car paste worth for covering a girls armor with helmet included so for me is a good choice for prop making
I work at a Michael’s art store and would like to add a way you can get the material(s) you need. Use our online store and check to see if the store near you carries your item. Before going in though call up to the Michael’s store and ask them to check their stock before coming up there. There should be an item number on the products page of the Michael’s website. Give the person on the phone and wait for someone to bring it up and they should (depending on what it is) be able to put it on hold for you. If they do not have the item a great option is to do an in-store pickup. By doing this, you pay online and they ship your item(s) to the store of your choosing. And the best part is that by doing an in-store pickup you don’t have to pay shipping.
Really great and helpful info, Have you ever worked with Bondo Fiberglass on EVA foam, That is currently what I am looking into. The only think I know is that is you dont have a power sander, you will not get a smooth finish, But I have never really worked with it.
Hi! I just found your channel. I love your instructional videos. I like the idea of using the critter instead of brushing all of my coats. Can you recommend a small "hobby grade" compressor that would meet the needs of the critter when working on something like a set of armor? Keep the videos coming!
It's my first time making props and I made two cardboard prop hammers I'm using for my NYCC cosplay. This is an awesome video! But I was wondering if you had any advice on sealing cardboard? Thanks!
Wow thanks for replying! The timing of this video was excellent for me haha. It's only a problem for the armor I made for my dog since it doesn't bend very well, but it still looks pretty good for my first foam build 👍🏼
interesting to watch. tho, what i'm looking forward to design i think i most likely would be wearing resin plastic parts instead of foam. think something on the lines of Daft Punk but, more than just the helmet and hands.
I know I probably need to watch this a few times, but I also wanted to ask a question in regards to making foam props more durable. The main thing I wanted to make sure of is in a case where the foam weapons can be durable enough to not fall apart should it take a hit and still allow it to be painted over afterward (and coated) so that once all of that is done, it could be used for random projects. I think there was also something like a sheet which could be warmed up with a heat gun and applied directly to the prop so that it can have the protection applied to it directly, but I wanted to look around and make sure I can find something that can work the best.
they use rubber latex to make it still flexible and durable and the sheet you were talking about is stuff like worbla, wonderflex which makes a hard plastic surface and those plastic sheets can be mashed together to make all sorts of shapes hope this helps ps if you try the rubber latex method do a layer of contact adhesive under the latex then if your using normal acrylic paint do another layer of contact adhesive on top of the latex as paint doesnt stick well to the latex unless you use plastidip hope this helps you :)
All by itself the EVA foam should be able to take hits and falls like a champ. Whatever you choose to seal it with might improve that durability. Either coat it with something that's super flexible, like latex rubber, or an incredibly thick coating of something rigid, like one of the epoxies we mentioned.
First off, thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I know you might not be answer all questions asked so it means a lot. I'll be sure to try out those you suggested for sure when I get the chance. I have been waiting to make a hammer weapon and a sword weapon, and it would be a shame if it fell apart so quickly right after it was crafted. Can't say thank you enough since it is always appreciated when someone responds to a question. ^_^
Very informative! What would you say for a large (4ft round) one-piece costume that goes over the head? Nothing moves, and I want it as durable as possible. Basically, it's a big hulking metal thing. I was going to make it out of fiberglass, but Eva, with a support structure, may be a better way to go.
been watching your videos for awhile now, this video convinced me I have to fallow your works and sub. Thank you for this test run on all the ways to seal foam. Informative videos like this is what the community needs. Would be cool to see you guys @ SciFi On The Rock
Have you guys ever added corn starch to your mod podge ? It gives it thickness and an almost plastic feel to it. Experiment with it I think you will love the results. I use it and can make different consistencies and thicknesses to the mod podge
You can use heat to speed up the epoxies drying. Just put your piece inside a big cardboard box and blast the box interior with a space heater or a lamp over top of it ( over the open part of the box, not against the cardboard obv.. with a normal bulb in it, not one of those energy efficient bulbs, they don't produce enough heat. you have to let it cool before touching thoguh because the hear will make it tacky for a while.
I am not a costume designer, but rather an architecture student. This video was extremely helpful to understand how to cover my foam architectural models!
since i keep coming back to this video i made a timestamp list (mostly for myself but maybe it'll be useful to someone!)
1:09 *EVA FOAM*
1:41 *NO SEALING PRODUCT*
2:08 heat sealing
2:21 paint
3:51 spray paint
*RUBBERS*
4:45 latex rubber
6:16 neoprene
7:00 *PVA GLUES*
wood glue, flexbond, mod podge
9:37 *PLASTIDIP* (and flexidip)
11:05 *EPOXIES*
xtc-3d, epsilon
12:53 epsilon pro
13:23 *URETHANES*
smoothcast 300
14:03 urecoat
15:19 C-C-C-C-COMBO
Some of these seals, like plasti-dip, can have the wrinkles removed by applying some heat even after being painted. not all of them though. KamuiCosplay has a good video that shows how some of these seals react to stress and if they can be fixed with heat
Yeah Kamui did a great job showing how to fix some wrinkles. =D
PlastiDip ftw
I get so many people calling me insane for using a blow torch.
I mean I am insane and they are right, but hey dude, it works.
For sealing the foam before priming and painting?
Heat sealing the most metal way....maybe using lava
i use a candle
You guys are doing it all wrong, you need to just fly straight to the surface of the sun
I saw someone use PlastiDip on EVA foam. She showed you could get the wrinkles out with a heatgun, at your destination. I've not seen anything else do this, thought I'd mention it. You all rock!
Yeah that was our pal Kamui, she's super clever! =D
BILL (and everyone) I HAVE ANOTHER AMAZING AND CHEAP WAY TO SEAL FOAM!!! There is an acrylic medium called GAC 900. it is a medium that you mix with acrylic paint and it makes it VERY flexible, I use it all the time now
McKenna Monheim noice
The word GAC makes me think of webkinz. Thanks for the tipp
Hi I have some questions about this stuff. I’ve never seen it used on foam, only on shoes/shirts. Does it allow for more paint to go on top of it after it dries? Is it toxic as they say? And do you have any videos demonstrating how the process works on foam?
This is now my favourite video.
I'm coming back to this everytime I grab my heat gun and floor foam
OMG! Your best video ever!
Thanks Ted :)
You guys rock so much! You too TED! Made a Arthur Knights of Justice two years ago and making a Ike cosplay for AWA in a week using a lot of the methods you guys recommend! If you are ever nearby, let us know. Love to visit and show off what you guys technically helped to create
Thank you for watching our videos!
Awesome video! Great information that everyone who uses EVA should watch.
This is AMAZINGLY comprehensive. Thank you! I was shocked that you included Urecoat, which is what I have lying around, so I apreciate your thoughts on it!
Just for reference, it's not super uncommon to be allergic to neoprene. Less so than latex (although I'm allergic to both because ...special?), but it's something to watch out for, especially if you're doing a commission for someone you don't know or something. If someone has issues with contact cements like Barge (which are neoprene based), it's likely that neoprene will also irritate.
Good to know!
We are just starting out on foamsmithing and were curious about this. We went out just today and got Plastidip and I think it's a good choice for the things we're making for Halloween. Thanks for the information! -Casey
I started out using school glue thinned with water, progressed to Plastidip, and now go back and forth between wood glue for rigid pieces i know won't flex, plastidip for parts that need a bit of flex to them, and fabric paint medium mixed with wood glue with something in between.
No one perfect primer works for everything, so showing all the pros and cons of each is so helpful. Thank you!
Still screw up often, but hey that's how you learn...melted pink insulation foam board last week b/c I used contact cement. Should have googled first!
Just when I think you guys can't get any better, you go and put out this video! Great job, so much information, and the outtakes were worth a million bucks!!
Finally a FULL description with a ton of examples
Hey guys! I have a tendency to do very light coats of Plastidip, leaving a bumpy finish, and I just wanted to note that while it sands horribly, I've had a lot of success smoothing the texture using VM&P Naphtha (respirator required!) and a gloved finger.
Bill I just discovered the best way ever to seal a paint job but you know more than me so I want to share it. It's called Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethene. It comes in both spray and brush on, and different finishes. It's flexible and VERY durable, and probably could be used to seal foam too but I haven't tried it. It is similar to floor wax (but way better.)
That tiny bottle of Urecoat is just too precious.
Thank you for making this video though, it is super helpful!
These kinds of videos are why the internet should have been invented! Yes, this video is that important. Well, maybe not, but it is very useful. Thanks for your time and effort.
On solid props i have tried waterwashable UV resin. I like the hard surface, the sandability and the fast and total control over the curing process.
Thank you very much for this video, I'm barely starting on the EVA prop making world and this was very educational!
I've been running my own experiments and this video is super helpful. There are a few methods here that I've never seen before.
*Saves to a playlist, copies URL into a notebook so he will never lose it.*
Doctor Discord *Loses notebook*
RIGHT, ty for reminding me :D
Thank you for everything you do! I bought both your books and I'm in the process of converting my garage into a prop/costume workshop.
This video is great! Sealing foam is a huge problem for me. Now I know how to seal foam with different kind of products, and know the pros and cons. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! For doing the work, for assuming the expense of testing, for sharing what you've learned.
Something to note about PVA glues, the wood glue especially but also mod podge will yellow over time. This is more of an issue if it's a top coat but it can discolor light and white paints painted over top. This is only an issue long term but if it's something you're going to display or use for years use archival bookbinding PVA instead. It won't discolor and it's a bit more flexible but it does cost a lot more and it's not water resistant like TiteBond 3.
I LOOOOOVE this video so much! I really like the chart you made, too! Terrific idea and I appreciate all the work you and Brit put in for this video!
guys you are unbelievable, I am not watching video to learn only but I I've also fun. Thanks a lot from Europe..
I'm relatively new to all of this stuff and I've used mostly PVA glue. this video was very helpful thanks!
Excellent Breakdown! Really great work. Having used flexbond, PVA, Plasti-dip, Flexidip, Epsilon, and Angelus, I can verify your results. Many of your foam props have weathered, aged, or distressed looks to them, what would you recommend for a prop you want to look shiny and new?
Timing for this is perfect. I'm in a time crunch for my con next week and this helped out a lot!
Great video as usual!
For painting the urecoat, and urethane rubbers in general, check out Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
Lay down a good coat of it and then paint with your preferred paints within the time specified on the can. Nothing really bonds to urethane rubber but the adhesion promoter really helps!
Thanks! I'll have to try neoprene. I'm extremely allergic to latex. Which stinks!
That you so much for including products people with a latex allergy can use for props. It has been a real search to find something that works as good as latex, but not actually have latex in it. :)
No problem! Happy to help!
I Was working in my fallout power armour and I couldn't find a video on how to seal it. Until you posted this
So Thank you so much (:
Thank you so much for running these tests it Really helps ! Saves so much time you know what prop peeps need and supply every time !
finaly! thanks so much. i watched so many of your videos and was like "wait what? why is he useing x/y to seal it, the last time he was useing y/x"
great video and sooo helpful! :)
Excellent video. This is the best side by side comparison of products I've seen so far, and you answered several questions I had involving failures I've had with various products. Props to you! No pun intended. ;)
Try adhesion promoter (comes in a regular, paint-type spray can) before spraying your Krylon. Paint sticks great on plastic, rubber, wood... Any otherwise hard to paint surface.
For anyone interested... There are actually "Ts" in the word "button." Somehow, they got lost in the last generation change. lol
Great video, guys. This one took a lot of effort and time.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for this video. I've been looking for a comprehensive look at this issue for a while and you guys hit the nail on the head. I'll definitely be picking up that material sheet from your website that you talked about. Thanks again.
Very Informative! I've been using Weldwood Contact Cement (green quart) followed by Plasti-Dip
This is quite possibly the best video on you tube EVER!!! Between you guys and evil Ted I'm trying to make my son some mccree armour from overwatch. The tips in this video should be gold plated and hung on the wall! It's great. Thanks.
Punished Props yes please. Any help with finishing, sealing and painting would be awesome. Best combos, recommendations and just helpful stuff.
What a fantastic guide! Thank you so very much in testing the many options for sealing Foam!
I'm relatively new to painting props, but I use an acrylic "binder" as undercoat before I start painting.
Then I mix my paint with the binder.
I have yet to experiment with finishing coats but I think I'll use some Mod Podge.
Great video you guys!
I think you covered everything very comprehensively... Looks like it would have taken a long time to go through all the testing.
I have been experimenting with UreCoat. I actually DYED the urethane with acrylic Jacquard brand paint!! Also for weathering, the top coat paint seems to adhere if you rub down the urethane with some acetone to "dry out" the oils that are in the urethane rubber, and scuffs it up.
That's wicked cool! Thank you for sharing--we'll have to try that out. We did a UreCoat test with green and white opaque pigments and cast magic pearl powders mixed together. The result looks a bit like the Skyrim glass armor. So much to test!
Punished Props excited to see the results! Also I will be at the Pizza and Prop Makers dinner at DragonCon! I'm really hoping that my Urecoat-ed armor will turn out how i envision it!! Much to discuss.
For things that I've covered with black Worbla I really like filler automotive primer. It sands beautifully!
So far I've found that Flexbond is my favourite to use to seal foam before priming/painting:) It's a nice consistency (I add a tiny it of water to it), 2 - 3 layers and it's good to go (dries really fast too). I like that the foam is still very flexible (hence the name), and doesn't crack when dried.
What an awesome video!!! I will be checking out a bunch of these things when I get around to making armor for an old D&D character. This will make things so much easier for me. Thank you
I've been looking for different ways to seal foam for my props and this video is perfect 😉 Thanks so much!
This realy helps me a lot picking the right product for my ( in "Blueprint State") Armor. Many thx to both of you.
Thanks guys!!! now I'm gonna end up spending even MORE money with smooth-on than I was originally planning. "the more you know"....the lighter your wallet gets lol. great video though. also I have been using rustoleum filler primer and then plasti-dip for props that don't need to bend and have gotten some great finishes. super smooth with enough sanding of course
I'm gonna guess this video will continue to bring in views for a long time, great job!
you guys have definitely hit all the areas that I've been looking for on this subject is was just thinking this the other day so I could work on my Mandalorian rifle thank you bill and brit👍👍👍
Since I'm on a pretty extreme budget, I generally use regular school glue, it acts just like Mod Podge but takes about six layers to be properly paintable
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome and informative video :)
I haven't used a wide range of materials to seal but my favourite for foam is PVA and then plasti-dip and for worbla its gesso and then mod podge :)
Incredible reference video for foam crafting.
Evil Ted said it all below.
funnily enough I had gotten your books as christmas presents and I had found this video looking into more detail on sealing. I hadn't even realized that you were the same people until I saw the mass effect armor and I was like wait a minute...
HA! Awesome. Thanks and enjoy the books! =D
I didn't know mod podge could be sanded! I gotta try this out!! Thank you.
Thank you guys!! This is an rediculusy good guide! And Im at this stage of my costume making right now so the timeing couldnt be better!!!
So so useful! Thanks for this video guys, really helped me decide on what to use to finish my shield project
i really like the translucent look you get from the eurethane. what if you were to coat the foam and paint it with a metallic silver first, and then put a tinted eurethane over it?
This helps a lot. Although i don't know if I can complete a full Dead Space Engineer suit within a month.
I just saw on kamuicosplay that you can use a heatgun to smooth out crinkles in plasti or flexi dip coated foam. Considering how fast it is to do that, you may want to try comparing them and possibly switch away from the latex.
Interesting!
What a great video guys, very well done. Also, props to the Evil Ted shirt Brit!
Love the rigour. I'm just about to start on foam armour, and trying to work out if plastidip is worth the $40 per can it costs here.
Holy crap! Thank you for doing all this experimentation so the rest of us don’t have to
You are most welcome!
YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LIFE SAVER GOD BLESS THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO
You're so very welcome! We're so glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for making this awesome Video and useful tutorial~
I am propmakers from indonesia, and in here we always use Aqua prof or Roof Tile sealer, maybe you can try it~
Thank you very much~
Neoprene being able to be sanded some is interesting. Do you know how well would it perform cold casting metal in place of using a resin?
I'm not sure! I haven't ever tried to do that with it. I think it would definitely be worth some experiments! Our employee Paige has been able to cold cast rubber pads on the bottoms of the hooves she makes, but can't buff it to a shine because of the texture, so that's worth considering.
Let's say a fella like me wanted to make a hockey puck out of foam. What would be the best sealant to hold up to the rigors of being constantly beaten on? Looks are not an issue, I just want to make it last longer. That smooth-on sealant looked pretty thick and durable. What do you guys think?
Great video! :) Question: Have you made a video on the step before this? Like what to use when filling in seams and such to get a smooth surface. It would be nice if you could give a description of what you used as well since quite a few of these brands aren't sold here. However, if i know what stuff to ask for in the shop, they might point me in the right direction.
You didn't mention whether the UraCoat was capable of being sanded or not. Also, how well does primer bond with it?
Another thing I would like to see tested is some paint that would be found in stores like home depot. Glidden Diamond and Behr Premium or Behr Marquee being a couple examples, plus they can be custom pigmented. The examples I listed are also paint+primer so it might have some interesting advantages along with being 100% acrylic. One thing to note is that, according to my research, exterior paint usually has more pigment applied to it. I haven't tested any of it yet though due to lack of resources.
Recently I came across a post where someone used book binder's glue (a type of PVA glue) and they achieved quite a nice finish for how flexible it was. I recently picked some up and will be doing some tests myself.
How viable would it be to use urathane or polyurathane to stiffen the foam? If using this method, should I add fiberglass reinforcement since I'm already putting in the effort of coating with that type of resin? Does fiberglass laminate to EVA well?
A suggestion for the next time you're working with epoxies or urathanes: Get a spray gun capable of being used with resins. I think you could get an even better finish if you did.
Thanks.
When you started flexing that battle axe around I was screaming because I vastly underestimated the flexibility of that finish.
i.imgur.com/F3TPFLa.gif
Yeah, setting this one aside. Fortunately my starting project is just a found parts Portal gun for a 12-year-old who will likely be easily impressed, so my supply of glues and spray paints will do. Wood or spray glue and high gloss Rustoleum 2x paint+primer that works on plastic are my picks, once I heat seal the pieces. I'm testing the combination already on a scrap. But it's good to know what's most durable for armor. It's something we've talked about doing for years, making one kind of armor or another, and if I ever do I want it wrinkle free.
I usually use car filling paste that stuff is super cheap if you have a lot of projects, also it bonds really well to foam and paint and when it cracks its practically invisible and doesent wrincle and it can be repaired as new yith the same material quite easely however it needs a lot of sanding, its not really flexible, adds some weight and it is not heat friendly you cant just let your pieces outside on the sun all day, here in my country I use like 2 dollars car paste worth for covering a girls armor with helmet included so for me is a good choice for prop making
I work at a Michael’s art store and would like to add a way you can get the material(s) you need. Use our online store and check to see if the store near you carries your item. Before going in though call up to the Michael’s store and ask them to check their stock before coming up there. There should be an item number on the products page of the Michael’s website. Give the person on the phone and wait for someone to bring it up and they should (depending on what it is) be able to put it on hold for you.
If they do not have the item a great option is to do an in-store pickup. By doing this, you pay online and they ship your item(s) to the store of your choosing. And the best part is that by doing an in-store pickup you don’t have to pay shipping.
Great tip, thanks for sharing! =D
Really great and helpful info, Have you ever worked with Bondo Fiberglass on EVA foam, That is currently what I am looking into. The only think I know is that is you dont have a power sander, you will not get a smooth finish, But I have never really worked with it.
Great video, very informative, thanks Bill,Brittany 🙂
What is a glue that can seal eva foam and styrofoam together? Does gorilla glue work?
Hi! I just found your channel. I love your instructional videos. I like the idea of using the critter instead of brushing all of my coats. Can you recommend a small "hobby grade" compressor that would meet the needs of the critter when working on something like a set of armor? Keep the videos coming!
OMG thank you so much for this, my education on TH-cam is complete
You're most welcome!
Amazing guide Bill and Brit! Thank you so much! Also, I love your books!!
This was excellent, and hugely helpful.
It's my first time making props and I made two cardboard prop hammers I'm using for my NYCC cosplay. This is an awesome video! But I was wondering if you had any advice on sealing cardboard? Thanks!
Damn I just finished sealing my chest armour too fml I was cheap and used wood glue...
Wow thanks for replying! The timing of this video was excellent for me haha. It's only a problem for the armor I made for my dog since it doesn't bend very well, but it still looks pretty good for my first foam build 👍🏼
What about Gesso? It needs a lot of coats and sanding, but it ends up pretty smooth and flexible, and it takes paint really well.
Fantastic video. Really useful info.
Thanks for this helpful guide :D I think i can use mod podge for the sword I'm currently making :D
u guys r great I was wondering what to use now I know how much appreciated thank you
interesting to watch. tho, what i'm looking forward to design i think i most likely would be wearing resin plastic parts instead of foam. think something on the lines of Daft Punk but, more than just the helmet and hands.
I know I probably need to watch this a few times, but I also wanted to ask a question in regards to making foam props more durable. The main thing I wanted to make sure of is in a case where the foam weapons can be durable enough to not fall apart should it take a hit and still allow it to be painted over afterward (and coated) so that once all of that is done, it could be used for random projects.
I think there was also something like a sheet which could be warmed up with a heat gun and applied directly to the prop so that it can have the protection applied to it directly, but I wanted to look around and make sure I can find something that can work the best.
they use rubber latex to make it still flexible and durable and the sheet you were talking about is stuff like worbla, wonderflex which makes a hard plastic surface and those plastic sheets can be mashed together to make all sorts of shapes hope this helps ps if you try the rubber latex method do a layer of contact adhesive under the latex then if your using normal acrylic paint do another layer of contact adhesive on top of the latex as paint doesnt stick well to the latex unless you use plastidip hope this helps you :)
All by itself the EVA foam should be able to take hits and falls like a champ. Whatever you choose to seal it with might improve that durability. Either coat it with something that's super flexible, like latex rubber, or an incredibly thick coating of something rigid, like one of the epoxies we mentioned.
First off, thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I know you might not be answer all questions asked so it means a lot.
I'll be sure to try out those you suggested for sure when I get the chance. I have been waiting to make a hammer weapon and a sword weapon, and it would be a shame if it fell apart so quickly right after it was crafted.
Can't say thank you enough since it is always appreciated when someone responds to a question. ^_^
Very informative! What would you say for a large (4ft round) one-piece costume that goes over the head? Nothing moves, and I want it as durable as possible. Basically, it's a big hulking metal thing. I was going to make it out of fiberglass, but Eva, with a support structure, may be a better way to go.
This is an amazing video. Super informative!
been watching your videos for awhile now, this video convinced me I have to fallow your works and sub. Thank you for this test run on all the ways to seal foam. Informative videos like this is what the community needs. Would be cool to see you guys @ SciFi On The Rock
+Barrie Hall Thanks for sticking around. =)
:D my pleasure.
Hey Bill and Brittany, awesome video! VERY informative. Do you guys plan on doing a brief overview of the voice changer in your Mechanist costume?
Have you guys ever added corn starch to your mod podge ? It gives it thickness and an almost plastic feel to it. Experiment with it I think you will love the results. I use it and can make different consistencies and thicknesses to the mod podge
You can use heat to speed up the epoxies drying. Just put your piece inside a big cardboard box and blast the box interior with a space heater or a lamp over top of it ( over the open part of the box, not against the cardboard obv.. with a normal bulb in it, not one of those energy efficient bulbs, they don't produce enough heat. you have to let it cool before touching thoguh because the hear will make it tacky for a while.
+K Kallweit Good tip!
Wow! Whole lotta info in one video- thanks!
I have used regular white glue thinned with warm water but the parts were static and not subject to abuse. Cheaper than wood glue though.....