I like the look of that film - I have a lot of colour films to shoot but after that I am going to go mono for a while and this film sill be first on my list !and yes it looks good slight under exposed .
Excited to shoot 2 rolls of P33. Just wish there was some developing info on using ILFOSOL 3 which I prefer more than D-76... Thanks for the video. Great job and XLNT photos!! Fan from Las Vegas, NV.
thanks so much!! oooo that's exciting you've got a couple rolls but yeah there's not many developer options in their data sheet/dev sheet. I wonder if there are some threads flying around where someone might have tried it with that developer?
I only shot one roll of P30 in 120 and of course messed it up )) Metered at 160 because needed the extra flexibility, but didn't know it's not recommended. Than Jamie Maldonado suggested to do stand developing, so I did it in hopes to save it and it worked, now this became my go-to developing method for BW film 🤣 I got good results with P30 and wanna try P33.
oh no!! lol but glad it was savable! i've wanted to start doing more stand development, which developer did you use? yeah would be amazing to have P33 in 120! hopefully they are working on it especially if p30 came out in 120 :)
For the life of me, I can never find the sweet spot for P30, I want to try P33 after my move and I can mix up some D76. Failing that look for some developing times for HC110 or Ilfotec HC and Ilfotec DDX.
I love the idea of Ferrania and that they're resurrecting a film factory. One of the things that I really appreciate is that P30 is such a low ASA film; it does make it more of a specialty product but I don't think the world needs ANOTHER ASA400 black & white film. I'm really interested to see if they can make high-speed slide film but understand the setbacks with their color film production. I think the closer they get to ASA400 the less interested in their products I will be because what's the point? Tri-X already exists. As far as my own experiences with P30, a guy at my local camera store recommended shooting & developing at ASA50 which I kind of agree with unless you're being very precise. Pulling the film by 2/3 of a stop does tame some of the contrast inherent in movie film. I have a feeling this film would be best developed in Kodak D-96 but have never tried. At university we were using Sprint Standard chemistry and I developed for 7min at 70F (Sprint M) which was just about right. I have scanned the film with my Pakon F335 and I dunno if it's the low grain or a difference in the thickness of the film base but I would have to run the scanner through the focusing wizard to get sharp results...then run it again with Tri-X or Portra to get it back to what it should be with other films. I expect that P33 (and P36, they had originally announced that at the same time) will follow the same as P30 in this regard so hopefully that info is helpful. I have some further thoughts & expansions of thoughts on my photo blog The Resurrected Camera. Dunno if YT will approve links but I'll try: resurrectedcamera.wordpress.com/tag/ferrania-p30/
These are great! I love P33, I developed it in D-76 1+1 for 10 minutes using constant rotation and in 510-Pyro 1+100 11.5 minutes constant rotation. Personally I find it close to Plus-X. I would love to see P36 a 320 film!
I love the way you move your Eyes ... other YTlers wave around and move their Hands, senseless. But Your Eyes are pointing to the Theme, GREAT! Keep it up, you are awesome!
From all the sample images I have seen here and in others reviews for P33, I’ll be sticking with the P30 (for Ferrania anyway). If I’m going to get that much grain I can do that with much cheaper film. Nice to have options, but seems a bit overpriced for what it is (at least for me). I do plan on using P30 occasionally though, so hope they make plenty of that as it seems to be sold out quite a bit. If they are going to add more films seems like if anything they could do an even finer grain b&w film than P30 (if that is possible for them) as there are already a lot of b&w films on the market that seem as good or better than P33. A new color film would be cool too, would be nice to have more options there.
Pretty awesome review with great shots. I did notice some scratch marks on a couple of shots, and am curious if they were just lint, or scratches during the development. Is this film real thin? Keep posting your awesome work, and thank you
I shot P30 and Orto, both developed in Rodinal. I didn't like the results of P30 - at least not P30 developed in Rodinal. Orto is nice - I don't know if I will buy another roll, for now I want to play a bit more with Adox HR-50
This video made me decide on two things. One, get some Ferrania film next. Although maybe not just P33 but also Orto. Might go ask my local lab first if they can handle them first though. Also that comment about composing with 50mm reminded me of looking for a 28 or 35. My 50/1.4 was dead-cheap, but wide-angle not so much, even the oldest 28/2.8 Nikkors seem to be ridiculously pricey. Maybe I'll have a look at an M42 lens.
yesssss :) haha I love ortho films so orto would be cool to shoot! yeah the 28mm focal length is more expensive, I'm looking for a 35mm still, what camera do you have? M42s are great deals!
@@Eclectachrome A Nikon FG, which means I'll have to use an adapter with a corrective lens and do research which M42 lenses work. If the rear element moves (much) during focusing that is apparently a problem. So working combos supposedly exist but, welp. After several hours searching on eBay I think my best option will be an RMC Tokina 28 (for Nikon AI). I would love the Nikkor 35/2 but that is sold used for around 350+ € around here which is a bit steep.
Small update: I improvised now and went for a cheap Nikkor AF 35-70 3.5-4.5. That one is almost as compact as a prime at 35 (don't need no zoom anyway) and still is half-way decent wrt aperture. And supposedly not too bad wrt image quality. And it was cheap.
On my screen the highlights looks pretty toasty, but that seems not to be the case for other commenters. Did you feel the video after upload was like that Eclecta, or do I need to see about calibrating this monitor?
First, I wanna know where you got your camera strap from? 😁 Second, I really like how your pics look, especially the one with the pool. Looks so 60s-80s vibes there. 🤩 Another thing is, I don't think my local film store can develop a film like this one, but I will ask if they will carry it. 👍🏾
hehe of course! I got it from Glaziers in Seattle, it's by a company called Photogenic Supply - called rope camera straps, it's so nice and comfy and I wish I had bought a couple more! and thank you :) but yes definitely worth asking!!
Thank you for responding back to me! 😁 Yeah, it's hard for me to wear certain neck straps with my film cameras. I've been following you for a while now, and I do enjoy your channel. It's hard to find women photographers on TH-cam to watch. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
The whites/brightest content of P33 in your shots, I think, are even better than the Acros II shots -- you get a lot of light-colored content in the image without it being blown out, and retaining the fine grain. I cannot get that with a lot of the traditional B&W films (TriX, HP5, HP4+) -- often the lightest/brightest content ends up being just over the threshold into blown-out whites. Your shots in the woods, at first glance, look to me to be a tad overexposed *BUT* no -- looking at the brightest content I could still see the details of the trees/wood/materials in the photo -- now *that* I really like.... And where do I get someone to toss me my next roll of film from off-camera, right when I need to load my camera???? 😁
its the opposite to p30 ... maybe a little bit more fp4 .more about the midrange tones and less contrast ... shot 2 rolls will shoot more ..want to try on 120 as well .. but generally am a fan of film ferrania .. I did 1 minute rotation and then 10-15 secs every minute in Rodinal .. most likely 1-100 .. from memory or what ever it recommended ..
I grew up 30 kilometers from Cairo Montenotte. How can I not be excited about this film? 😅 I haven't tried it yet, but I love the P30. It has a lot of character 😊 Next film I hope they'll make? Color slide film. But I know it would be difficult 😅
when you mention Fuji Acros 2 is this a re make of acros, or is it a new film?, as I have just shot this (acros 100) in 120 on a H1 hasselblad with lens SHADE, 2 sec. self-timer; at f5.6 1/400; f9 1/180 just a few settings, I shot in Adelaide, South Australia a fortnight ago, and the light was medium to overcast {EV 12-15} for reference; and it all turned out fine, but I went out with someone, and he suggested only HIGH contrast buildings, etc. this is what worked. ( this was a day shooting, one day every week for three weeks straight, to get the 17 shots done). how is this, as compared to Acros?, which would you shoot as a beginner, or as a more experienced film shooter?
@@Eclectachrome thanks, I asked because I first shot a high asa 400 film (Fuji 400H) and it didn't work out, white out and glare; I shoot urban and seascapes, so high glare is always a problem, plus this was my first 120 roll, and first film! {the roll I mentioned in the comment was my 3rd and IT did work out, simply because I took every precaution, to ensure it did, also the H1 is like a dslr, meter and MASP included}-that experience made me evangelical about the use of lens hoods, and using LOW asa on bright days, also when using mirrorless cameras to check exposure use the ']' bracket, it IS part of the meter scale, the HIGHLIGHT end!-it's hard to see the lit part, but it is there, and is a warning of glare; my mistake was that I didn't see it, so over exposed due to indifference.
It would be cool if Ferrania brought back their Solaris film stock. I shot a couple back in the day. I remember it had a very grainy vintage look.
I really like this film! It's definitely got contrast and character. I developed it in HC110 and the results were plenty sharp.
nice!
P30 is by far my favourite film. It's got some magic to it.
it's so nice!
I remember when P30 came out and NOBODY in the US had it.
Ferrania had touted it for years before delivering it.
Yeah that's not fun to see others with access, but maybe an excuse to travel?? Lol
I got a roll in a Leica R3 w/ 50mm Summicron. I’m going to process it HC110. Not sure how yet or times, but I’m going to try it.
sounds great! let me know how it goes!
I like the look of that film - I have a lot of colour films to shoot but after that I am going to go mono for a while and this film sill be first on my list !and yes it looks good slight under exposed .
Excited to shoot 2 rolls of P33. Just wish there was some developing info on using ILFOSOL 3 which I prefer more than D-76... Thanks for the video. Great job and XLNT photos!! Fan from Las Vegas, NV.
thanks so much!! oooo that's exciting you've got a couple rolls but yeah there's not many developer options in their data sheet/dev sheet. I wonder if there are some threads flying around where someone might have tried it with that developer?
I only shot one roll of P30 in 120 and of course messed it up )) Metered at 160 because needed the extra flexibility, but didn't know it's not recommended. Than Jamie Maldonado suggested to do stand developing, so I did it in hopes to save it and it worked, now this became my go-to developing method for BW film 🤣 I got good results with P30 and wanna try P33.
oh no!! lol but glad it was savable! i've wanted to start doing more stand development, which developer did you use? yeah would be amazing to have P33 in 120! hopefully they are working on it especially if p30 came out in 120 :)
Only shot one roll so far but I'm liking it. Prints well in the darkroom, easy to work with.
good news!
For the life of me, I can never find the sweet spot for P30, I want to try P33 after my move and I can mix up some D76. Failing that look for some developing times for HC110 or Ilfotec HC and Ilfotec DDX.
I love the idea of Ferrania and that they're resurrecting a film factory. One of the things that I really appreciate is that P30 is such a low ASA film; it does make it more of a specialty product but I don't think the world needs ANOTHER ASA400 black & white film. I'm really interested to see if they can make high-speed slide film but understand the setbacks with their color film production. I think the closer they get to ASA400 the less interested in their products I will be because what's the point? Tri-X already exists.
As far as my own experiences with P30, a guy at my local camera store recommended shooting & developing at ASA50 which I kind of agree with unless you're being very precise. Pulling the film by 2/3 of a stop does tame some of the contrast inherent in movie film. I have a feeling this film would be best developed in Kodak D-96 but have never tried. At university we were using Sprint Standard chemistry and I developed for 7min at 70F (Sprint M) which was just about right. I have scanned the film with my Pakon F335 and I dunno if it's the low grain or a difference in the thickness of the film base but I would have to run the scanner through the focusing wizard to get sharp results...then run it again with Tri-X or Portra to get it back to what it should be with other films.
I expect that P33 (and P36, they had originally announced that at the same time) will follow the same as P30 in this regard so hopefully that info is helpful. I have some further thoughts & expansions of thoughts on my photo blog The Resurrected Camera. Dunno if YT will approve links but I'll try: resurrectedcamera.wordpress.com/tag/ferrania-p30/
These are great! I love P33, I developed it in D-76 1+1 for 10 minutes using constant rotation and in 510-Pyro 1+100 11.5 minutes constant rotation. Personally I find it close to Plus-X. I would love to see P36 a 320 film!
thanks Alex!!!
I love the way you move your Eyes ... other YTlers wave around and move their Hands, senseless.
But Your Eyes are pointing to the Theme, GREAT!
Keep it up, you are awesome!
Thank you 😀
From all the sample images I have seen here and in others reviews for P33, I’ll be sticking with the P30 (for Ferrania anyway). If I’m going to get that much grain I can do that with much cheaper film. Nice to have options, but seems a bit overpriced for what it is (at least for me). I do plan on using P30 occasionally though, so hope they make plenty of that as it seems to be sold out quite a bit. If they are going to add more films seems like if anything they could do an even finer grain b&w film than P30 (if that is possible for them) as there are already a lot of b&w films on the market that seem as good or better than P33. A new color film would be cool too, would be nice to have more options there.
With all those grow lights mom and dad might be on a DEA watch list 😉
hehe :D
Pretty awesome review with great shots. I did notice some scratch marks on a couple of shots, and am curious if they were just lint, or scratches during the development. Is this film real thin? Keep posting your awesome work, and thank you
Hey! So it seems sort of thin compared to others! And thank you 😊
I shot P30 and Orto, both developed in Rodinal. I didn't like the results of P30 - at least not P30 developed in Rodinal. Orto is nice - I don't know if I will buy another roll, for now I want to play a bit more with Adox HR-50
Agfa BW is my favourite film. I've got maximum juicy results.
anything Agfa is fab!! :)
This video made me decide on two things. One, get some Ferrania film next. Although maybe not just P33 but also Orto. Might go ask my local lab first if they can handle them first though. Also that comment about composing with 50mm reminded me of looking for a 28 or 35. My 50/1.4 was dead-cheap, but wide-angle not so much, even the oldest 28/2.8 Nikkors seem to be ridiculously pricey. Maybe I'll have a look at an M42 lens.
yesssss :) haha I love ortho films so orto would be cool to shoot! yeah the 28mm focal length is more expensive, I'm looking for a 35mm still, what camera do you have? M42s are great deals!
@@Eclectachrome A Nikon FG, which means I'll have to use an adapter with a corrective lens and do research which M42 lenses work. If the rear element moves (much) during focusing that is apparently a problem. So working combos supposedly exist but, welp. After several hours searching on eBay I think my best option will be an RMC Tokina 28 (for Nikon AI). I would love the Nikkor 35/2 but that is sold used for around 350+ € around here which is a bit steep.
Small update: I improvised now and went for a cheap Nikkor AF 35-70 3.5-4.5. That one is almost as compact as a prime at 35 (don't need no zoom anyway) and still is half-way decent wrt aperture. And supposedly not too bad wrt image quality. And it was cheap.
On my screen the highlights looks pretty toasty, but that seems not to be the case for other commenters. Did you feel the video after upload was like that Eclecta, or do I need to see about calibrating this monitor?
haha you'd probably have to clarify what you mean by toasty for me to answer that question :)
First, I wanna know where you got your camera strap from? 😁
Second, I really like how your pics look, especially the one with the pool. Looks so 60s-80s vibes there. 🤩
Another thing is, I don't think my local film store can develop a film like this one, but I will ask if they will carry it. 👍🏾
hehe of course! I got it from Glaziers in Seattle, it's by a company called Photogenic Supply - called rope camera straps, it's so nice and comfy and I wish I had bought a couple more! and thank you :) but yes definitely worth asking!!
Thank you for responding back to me! 😁
Yeah, it's hard for me to wear certain neck straps with my film cameras.
I've been following you for a while now, and I do enjoy your channel. It's hard to find women photographers on TH-cam to watch.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
@@LeslieABronxBebeFalu of course! aw thank you, yeah I agree with you, it'd be nice to have more :)
The whites/brightest content of P33 in your shots, I think, are even better than the Acros II shots -- you get a lot of light-colored content in the image without it being blown out, and retaining the fine grain. I cannot get that with a lot of the traditional B&W films (TriX, HP5, HP4+) -- often the lightest/brightest content ends up being just over the threshold into blown-out whites. Your shots in the woods, at first glance, look to me to be a tad overexposed *BUT* no -- looking at the brightest content I could still see the details of the trees/wood/materials in the photo -- now *that* I really like.... And where do I get someone to toss me my next roll of film from off-camera, right when I need to load my camera???? 😁
hehe you have to bribe them!! lol thanks for your comments as always :) yeah the exposure is a bit funny to sort through but the result is nice :)
@@Eclectachrome -- I think your video intros should have fast-repeat loop of you catching the box of film! It's awesome!!! 😄
its the opposite to p30 ... maybe a little bit more fp4 .more about the midrange tones and less contrast ... shot 2 rolls will shoot more ..want to try on 120 as well .. but generally am a fan of film ferrania .. I did 1 minute rotation and then 10-15 secs every minute in Rodinal .. most likely 1-100 .. from memory or what ever it recommended ..
I grew up 30 kilometers from Cairo Montenotte. How can I not be excited about this film? 😅 I haven't tried it yet, but I love the P30. It has a lot of character 😊 Next film I hope they'll make? Color slide film. But I know it would be difficult 😅
but of course!!! hehe who doesn't love film with character, keeps things interesting :) and yes color slide film would be amazing!
when you mention Fuji Acros 2 is this a re make of acros, or is it a new film?, as I have just shot this (acros 100) in 120 on a H1 hasselblad with lens SHADE, 2 sec. self-timer; at f5.6 1/400; f9 1/180 just a few settings, I shot in Adelaide, South Australia a fortnight ago, and the light was medium to overcast {EV 12-15} for reference; and it all turned out fine, but I went out with someone, and he suggested only HIGH contrast buildings, etc. this is what worked. ( this was a day shooting, one day every week for three weeks straight, to get the 17 shots done).
how is this, as compared to Acros?, which would you shoot as a beginner, or as a more experienced film shooter?
I was referring to Acros II :) also anybody could shoot either film at any level!
@@Eclectachrome thanks, I asked because I first shot a high asa 400 film (Fuji 400H) and it didn't work out, white out and glare; I shoot urban and seascapes, so high glare is always a problem, plus this was my first 120 roll, and first film! {the roll I mentioned in the comment was my 3rd and IT did work out, simply because I took every precaution, to ensure it did, also the H1 is like a dslr, meter and MASP included}-that experience made me evangelical about the use of lens hoods, and using LOW asa on bright days, also when using mirrorless cameras to check exposure use the ']' bracket, it IS part of the meter scale, the HIGHLIGHT end!-it's hard to see the lit part, but it is there, and is a warning of glare; my mistake was that I didn't see it, so over exposed due to indifference.
hi, I shoot P33 and have made some YT videos covering different development strategies ... I like it best at EI 640
oh nice! whats your favorite developer with that?
@@Eclectachrome I’ve only tried Rodinal and xtol … like both