How does this guy only have 1.7k subscribers smh , guess you need to sell out to the industry Jamie , appreciate your honest video brother and staying true
I’ve been detailing for, what seems like, longer than most have been alive. Over the decades, I’ve learned a lot of what you do as a professional detailer. However, I have also learned a lot on what NOT to do. I would argue that the latter is more important. With that being said, please take what follows with a grain of salt but also know it comes from a deep experience. Jamie is correct. You do not “need” an extractor. In fact, 99% of the time, you don’t need to go through the enzyme, pretreat or shampoo process. A simple surface clean is usually all you need. Surface clean? Yes, surface clean. That means you’re not drenching upholstery with chemicals, you’re just cleaning the top surfaces of upholstery; carpet, cloth, vinyl, leather, etc. You also don’t “need” a drill brush, it is often fine just to use towels … but if time comes in to question, drill brushes save a lot of it. Now there are going to be times where upholstery “needs” to be properly cleaned. When I say proper, I mean it needs the full treatment. You’re going to damage a client’s vehicle if you skip certain steps. Example: drenching upholstery in chemicals without rinsing it clean. Drenching upholstery with water and/or chemicals without fully extracting the liquids. Not using a chemical that breaks down organic dirt and not using heat to fully disinfect and sterilize. It’s important to note that while you CAN do all these ”no-no’s” and you and your clients will be happy … over time, you’ll come to find out just how much damage you’ve caused. Mold, mildew and fungus is hazardous. That’s exactly what happens when you don’t properly clean upholstery. Materials becoming brittle, matted or even clogged is what happens when you don’t clean upholstery properly. Stains resurfacing, residue staining and “smells” are common occurrences when upholstery is not properly cleaned. I’m not trying to throw shade on anyone’s process. I’m simply explaining why professionals use what they use. A professional upholstery cleaner is not going to be using a converted shop vacuum or Zap It to “properly” clean upholstery. However, those are perfectly fine for surface cleaning. I have used Zap It and, in my opinion, it’s junk. I have been using Bio Break for so long now, everything else is junk to me. The only thing that’s ever gave BB a run for its money was the tri-stage system P&S came out with years ago. But if I’m being transparent, even the P&S system doesn’t do what Bio Break does. Also, to be perfectly clear, Zap It is actually a decent surface cleaner. However, its cleaning power is greatly reduced when diluted. Plus it leaves behind residue that builds up over time. That’s why so many have converted to something like DiY rinseless wash for ALL surface cleaning, including upholstery. That’s why it’s used in steamers. Speaking of steamers … THEY are the way to go when surface cleaning. They disinfect, they clean, they sterilize and you don’t need extraction or loads of time to dry. If you’re not going to get away with just wiping down the interior, steamers are the GOAT. Now, again, these are MY opinions and they work for ME. But my opinions are based off well over 30 years of professional experience, training and apprenticeships. Doesn’t make me an expert upholstery professional, however. 😊😊😊
Zap It has been working great on headliners for me. I spray a very small amount on a microfiber towel and then gently go after stains on headliners. It has yet to leave a "wet" mark after drying. I do think it's key to not use much. It's incredible at removing stains from carpets and seats. Zap It works great, and as you said, it smells really nice! Wear gloves though, folks! I've read the chemical is not something you want to come into contact with.
Yes! Zap-it is amazing and you definitely don’t need much for it to do its job. And yes absolutely wear gloves!! I typically wash my hands immediately after using this product otherwise it will irritate your skin after awhile.
Hi Jamie! I recently watched your 5 Interior Products video and bought Zap It to remove some stains from the fabrics in my car. It TOTALLY worked!! The stains are GONE and I don't think they'll return. I'd been using Dark Fury, Cherry Bomb and Road Warrior from Superior for exterior cleaning prior to seeing your vids, so I knew what Superior brought to the table for car detailing. However, until I saw your video on the 5 Interior Products you use from them, I hadn't used any of their products for interior cleaning. Also, just ordered Pink Perfection to implement into my cleaning regimen. I'm not a pro detailer. I'm simply a lady that likes to keep her ride clean, shiny and pristine. ❤😍❤ your videos, btw!!!
Great video! My question for you would be how do you avoid wicking? & is zap it just a chemical that won’t cause wicking and that’s why you don’t need a peroxide finisher?
@@Silveradocowboy best way to avoid wicking is to make sure you are fully rinsing out the upholstery or carpet being cleaned. Wicking is normally caused by dirt in the foam material or under padding getting wet and then making its way back onto the surface as it drys so you just have to make sure your extractor is running clear. Zap-it does a great job at minimizing wicking and it rinses out easily I believe it is because of the citrus base they use but honestly I’m not 100% sure of the chemistry behind it.
I have not yet used that chemical but I’m pretty sure it is an exterior presoak It’s what is used at a car wash at the very beginning. SP makes products for Automatic Car Washes as well as detailing but you can mix them up in a spray bottle and use them. It is what everyone does with formula 4 spray wax.
@@jamiesdetailing yeah that unknown, I use everything superior for my business except a couple things they don't have like a ceramic sealant which I don't understand why they don't make one . Figured I ask since you seem to like SP as well as me and haven't found a video on the pre soak at all on TH-cam or anywhere so just an idea maybe you can be the first lol 🤣
@KingTheDetailer I might have to order some just to try it out and be the first on YT lol. But typically Muscle Magic and Dark Fury are pretty good pre-washes so I haven’t tried it yet
I'm going to try to return it to O'Reilly's. I didn't like it. But it was only $55/5 gallons 70:1-120:1 dilution I bought SF and AF from Koch Chemie to replace it. The c85 pre soak doesn't really do much work. Honestly if you want you can just mix dirt buster with a light amount of road warrior in your foam cannon
I have suggestions … Learn how to perform the rinseless wash process. Get the basics: towels, bucket, rinseless wash solution, vacuum, etc. Go out and hustle. That’s pretty much it. 😊😊😊 EDIT: You do NOT “need” a uniform. You don’t need boutique detailing chemicals or tools. You don’t need to offer every service, nothing wrong with offering a “basic” detail. You don’t have to be able to clean upholstery or wax or polish or apply coatings.
@@augustinepassijr5325Brand suggestions? Hmm … let’s see. Wolfgang’s Uber Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon Griot’s Rinseless Wash and Wax = $60-$80 a gallon McKee’s N-914 Rinseless Wash = $50-$60 a gallon DIY Detail’s Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon P&S Absolute Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon Optimum No Rinse and Shine = $40-$50 a gallon Oberk Rinseless Wash = $60-$70 a gallon Chemical Guys Rinse Free Wash and Shine = $40-$50 a gallon XPEL Rinse Free Car Wash = $45-$55 a gallon Nanoskin Rinse Free Express Wash = $18-$25 a gallon Aero Cosmetic’s Rinseless Car Wash and Wax = $60-$80 a gallon Koch-Chemie Rapid Rinseless Wash = $16-$20 per liter (33 oz) Gyeon Q²M ECO Wash = $16-$20 per liter (33 oz) Meguiar’s Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax = $60-$80 a gallon I mean, the list of brands can go on and on but I’ve used the one’s I listed above. There are others I haven’t tried yet. However, the only rinseless wash solutions I’ve used professionally are OnR and DiY. Either of those options are excellent choices. 😊😊😊
Jamie, thanks for the video. On another note, which Superior product is used for iron remover both for paint & wheels? And can it be diluted? If diluted, what is the optimum mix?
Yes they actually make one of the better iron removers on the market. It is called Purple X. Use it on wheels and paint at 1:1. Only dilutable iron remover on the market that I know of. It is one of their more expensive products, but being dilutable still makes it more economical than other iron removers.
The answer is 437. lol … yes, you CAN use Zap It for numerous off-label purposes. However, this product is meant to be rinsed off after application. Meaning it leaves behind a fair amount of residue. So while you CAN, I wouldn’t recommend it. 😊😊😊 EDIT: I highly recommend a rinseless wash solution for ALL interior cleaning. But if you’re looking for more bite and trying to stay in the Superior Products family, Fire Power is an excellent choice.
I would recommend an APC or something more ment for those materials. Zap-it performs best on upholstery and carpeting. Try Pink perfection or Green All from Superior Products or if it doesn’t need that much of a deep clean, you can always use your favorite rinseless wash.
It is a lot different product. I love it personally. Definitely give it a try if you can. It is dilutable up to 5:1. I typically use it 4:1 and find that is the best dilution ratio. It is very slick and cleans great. Great product for wiping dust and pollen of your vehicle and just giving it that quick mid week refresh.
Yes, you CAN dilute Zap It up to 2:1 … but I wouldn’t. The effectiveness of the cleaner is massively compromised. I recommend using it straight, just remember to shake it up for every use. 😊😊😊
Perfect needed this. Next please do dash and door with green all of which ever product you like best. And then the best prewash. For both new vehicles and vehicles with ceramic coating (road warrior?). Thank you
Yes you can dilute 1:1 or possibly 2:1 but I wouldn’t go over that. The cleaning power is severely weakened upon dilution. Just remember, before dilution and before use, shake up your bottle as the ingredients tend to separate fairly easy. 😊😊😊
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
How does this guy only have 1.7k subscribers smh , guess you need to sell out to the industry Jamie , appreciate your honest video brother and staying true
I will take the low subscriber count! Thank you so much my man 👊🏽 I’m here to help you not sell you something you don’t need 🙌
@@jamiesdetailingyour channel is going to blow up in the best way. Your video production is top notch and your advice is even better!
As long as all of us keep engaging, Jamie’s channel will be all good. Right now, it’s a sleeper … but it won’t always be.
😊😊😊
@Reaper-Jim let’s gooo! We got this! Thanks for being here Jim 👊🏽
U da man Jamie!!! I’m learning a lot from you 🤜🏽🤛🏽🤙🏽
I’ve been detailing for, what seems like, longer than most have been alive. Over the decades, I’ve learned a lot of what you do as a professional detailer. However, I have also learned a lot on what NOT to do. I would argue that the latter is more important. With that being said, please take what follows with a grain of salt but also know it comes from a deep experience.
Jamie is correct. You do not “need” an extractor. In fact, 99% of the time, you don’t need to go through the enzyme, pretreat or shampoo process. A simple surface clean is usually all you need. Surface clean? Yes, surface clean. That means you’re not drenching upholstery with chemicals, you’re just cleaning the top surfaces of upholstery; carpet, cloth, vinyl, leather, etc. You also don’t “need” a drill brush, it is often fine just to use towels … but if time comes in to question, drill brushes save a lot of it.
Now there are going to be times where upholstery “needs” to be properly cleaned. When I say proper, I mean it needs the full treatment. You’re going to damage a client’s vehicle if you skip certain steps. Example: drenching upholstery in chemicals without rinsing it clean. Drenching upholstery with water and/or chemicals without fully extracting the liquids. Not using a chemical that breaks down organic dirt and not using heat to fully disinfect and sterilize. It’s important to note that while you CAN do all these ”no-no’s” and you and your clients will be happy … over time, you’ll come to find out just how much damage you’ve caused.
Mold, mildew and fungus is hazardous. That’s exactly what happens when you don’t properly clean upholstery. Materials becoming brittle, matted or even clogged is what happens when you don’t clean upholstery properly. Stains resurfacing, residue staining and “smells” are common occurrences when upholstery is not properly cleaned.
I’m not trying to throw shade on anyone’s process. I’m simply explaining why professionals use what they use. A professional upholstery cleaner is not going to be using a converted shop vacuum or Zap It to “properly” clean upholstery. However, those are perfectly fine for surface cleaning.
I have used Zap It and, in my opinion, it’s junk. I have been using Bio Break for so long now, everything else is junk to me. The only thing that’s ever gave BB a run for its money was the tri-stage system P&S came out with years ago. But if I’m being transparent, even the P&S system doesn’t do what Bio Break does. Also, to be perfectly clear, Zap It is actually a decent surface cleaner. However, its cleaning power is greatly reduced when diluted. Plus it leaves behind residue that builds up over time. That’s why so many have converted to something like DiY rinseless wash for ALL surface cleaning, including upholstery. That’s why it’s used in steamers.
Speaking of steamers … THEY are the way to go when surface cleaning. They disinfect, they clean, they sterilize and you don’t need extraction or loads of time to dry. If you’re not going to get away with just wiping down the interior, steamers are the GOAT.
Now, again, these are MY opinions and they work for ME. But my opinions are based off well over 30 years of professional experience, training and apprenticeships. Doesn’t make me an expert upholstery professional, however.
😊😊😊
Zap It has been working great on headliners for me. I spray a very small amount on a microfiber towel and then gently go after stains on headliners. It has yet to leave a "wet" mark after drying. I do think it's key to not use much. It's incredible at removing stains from carpets and seats. Zap It works great, and as you said, it smells really nice! Wear gloves though, folks! I've read the chemical is not something you want to come into contact with.
Yes! Zap-it is amazing and you definitely don’t need much for it to do its job. And yes absolutely wear gloves!! I typically wash my hands immediately after using this product otherwise it will irritate your skin after awhile.
@@jamiesdetailing I read it’s worse than irritating to skin. On your skin, in your body and probably bad for your liver.
Hi Jamie! I recently watched your 5 Interior Products video and bought Zap It to remove some stains from the fabrics in my car. It TOTALLY worked!! The stains are GONE and I don't think they'll return. I'd been using Dark Fury, Cherry Bomb and Road Warrior from Superior for exterior cleaning prior to seeing your vids, so I knew what Superior brought to the table for car detailing. However, until I saw your video on the 5 Interior Products you use from them, I hadn't used any of their products for interior cleaning. Also, just ordered Pink Perfection to implement into my cleaning regimen. I'm not a pro detailer. I'm simply a lady that likes to keep her ride clean, shiny and pristine. ❤😍❤ your videos, btw!!!
Can’t wait to use this stuff gotta finish my other chemical first .. but will be ordering when I’m done
Helpful video. Thank you!
Great videon like always Jamie
Great video! My question for you would be how do you avoid wicking? & is zap it just a chemical that won’t cause wicking and that’s why you don’t need a peroxide finisher?
@@Silveradocowboy best way to avoid wicking is to make sure you are fully rinsing out the upholstery or carpet being cleaned. Wicking is normally caused by dirt in the foam material or under padding getting wet and then making its way back onto the surface as it drys so you just have to make sure your extractor is running clear. Zap-it does a great job at minimizing wicking and it rinses out easily I believe it is because of the citrus base they use but honestly I’m not 100% sure of the chemistry behind it.
They have a pink one that I use that has the enzyme in it already does real good as well
Does it all enzyme cleaner is amazing as well all on its own. I use it often for shampooing. It is an awesome 1-2 punch with Zap-it as well!
@@jamiesdetailing you mix them together?
is zap it dilutable?
Superior has a product called pre soak any ideas on how that works ?
I have not yet used that chemical but I’m pretty sure it is an exterior presoak It’s what is used at a car wash at the very beginning.
SP makes products for Automatic Car Washes as well as detailing but you can mix them up in a spray bottle and use them. It is what everyone does with formula 4 spray wax.
@@jamiesdetailing yeah that unknown, I use everything superior for my business except a couple things they don't have like a ceramic sealant which I don't understand why they don't make one . Figured I ask since you seem to like SP as well as me and haven't found a video on the pre soak at all on TH-cam or anywhere so just an idea maybe you can be the first lol 🤣
@KingTheDetailer I might have to order some just to try it out and be the first on YT lol. But typically Muscle Magic and Dark Fury are pretty good pre-washes so I haven’t tried it yet
I have 5 gallons of it
I'm going to try to return it to O'Reilly's. I didn't like it. But it was only $55/5 gallons 70:1-120:1 dilution
I bought SF and AF from Koch Chemie to replace it. The c85 pre soak doesn't really do much work. Honestly if you want you can just mix dirt buster with a light amount of road warrior in your foam cannon
Any suggestions for a newbie entertaining the game?? Chemicals, cleaners, tools and stuff? Please 🙏🏽? Always willing to learn
I have suggestions …
Learn how to perform the rinseless wash process.
Get the basics: towels, bucket, rinseless wash solution, vacuum, etc.
Go out and hustle.
That’s pretty much it.
😊😊😊
EDIT: You do NOT “need” a uniform. You don’t need boutique detailing chemicals or tools. You don’t need to offer every service, nothing wrong with offering a “basic” detail. You don’t have to be able to clean upholstery or wax or polish or apply coatings.
@@Reaper-Jim thank you I appreciate the knowledge & tips…..any brand suggestions for rinse less wash? Please lmk thanks for your time. 🤙🏽
@@augustinepassijr5325Brand suggestions? Hmm … let’s see.
Wolfgang’s Uber Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon
Griot’s Rinseless Wash and Wax = $60-$80 a gallon
McKee’s N-914 Rinseless Wash = $50-$60 a gallon
DIY Detail’s Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon
P&S Absolute Rinseless Wash = $40-$50 a gallon
Optimum No Rinse and Shine = $40-$50 a gallon
Oberk Rinseless Wash = $60-$70 a gallon
Chemical Guys Rinse Free Wash and Shine = $40-$50 a gallon
XPEL Rinse Free Car Wash = $45-$55 a gallon
Nanoskin Rinse Free Express Wash = $18-$25 a gallon
Aero Cosmetic’s Rinseless Car Wash and Wax = $60-$80 a gallon
Koch-Chemie Rapid Rinseless Wash = $16-$20 per liter (33 oz)
Gyeon Q²M ECO Wash = $16-$20 per liter (33 oz)
Meguiar’s Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax = $60-$80 a gallon
I mean, the list of brands can go on and on but I’ve used the one’s I listed above. There are others I haven’t tried yet. However, the only rinseless wash solutions I’ve used professionally are OnR and DiY. Either of those options are excellent choices.
😊😊😊
Jamie, thanks for the video. On another note, which Superior product is used for iron remover both for paint & wheels? And can it be diluted? If diluted, what is the optimum mix?
Yes they actually make one of the better iron removers on the market. It is called Purple X. Use it on wheels and paint at 1:1. Only dilutable iron remover on the market that I know of. It is one of their more expensive products, but being dilutable still makes it more economical than other iron removers.
@@jamiesdetailing thank you for the reply, I am located about 2.5 hours south of you in Central IL...
Could I use this on the plastics as well and maybe leather
The answer is 437.
lol … yes, you CAN use Zap It for numerous off-label purposes. However, this product is meant to be rinsed off after application. Meaning it leaves behind a fair amount of residue. So while you CAN, I wouldn’t recommend it.
😊😊😊
EDIT: I highly recommend a rinseless wash solution for ALL interior cleaning. But if you’re looking for more bite and trying to stay in the Superior Products family, Fire Power is an excellent choice.
I would recommend an APC or something more ment for those materials. Zap-it performs best on upholstery and carpeting. Try Pink perfection or Green All from Superior Products or if it doesn’t need that much of a deep clean, you can always use your favorite rinseless wash.
You ever used the superior products waterless wash ? Just wondering if it’s worth getting over ONR
Waterless wash is a very different product than ONR. Not comparable to each other
Absolutely I have! Pretty sure I did a video on that product
It is a lot different product. I love it personally. Definitely give it a try if you can. It is dilutable up to 5:1. I typically use it 4:1 and find that is the best dilution ratio. It is very slick and cleans great. Great product for wiping dust and pollen of your vehicle and just giving it that quick mid week refresh.
What ratio did you use on the zap it
Zap it is actually used full strength! One of the few products from SP that is not dilutable.
Yes, you CAN dilute Zap It up to 2:1 … but I wouldn’t. The effectiveness of the cleaner is massively compromised. I recommend using it straight, just remember to shake it up for every use.
😊😊😊
Wilson auto detailing just got sponsored by super products 😮
That is sick! Congratulations to my boy!!
Perfect needed this. Next please do dash and door with green all of which ever product you like best. And then the best prewash. For both new vehicles and vehicles with ceramic coating (road warrior?). Thank you
Green All is one of my favorites that would be no problem 👊🏽
Mais um inscrito no teu canal falo do Rio de Janeiro Boa sorte meu amigo Estou aguardando novos vídeos forte abraço👍👋
Can you cut this formula or use straight?
Yes you can dilute 1:1 or possibly 2:1 but I wouldn’t go over that. The cleaning power is severely weakened upon dilution. Just remember, before dilution and before use, shake up your bottle as the ingredients tend to separate fairly easy.
😊😊😊
@@Reaper-Jim thanks Jim I appreciate your help 💪