Great job and pvc make the best rails . One tip to make water launching a little easier is to simply pull your kayak back around 4 feet . That puts it closer to the water and floats it off easily
I'm starting a similar build on a Harbor Freight trailer and for 2 kayaks. I've been mentally debating between the 3" and 4". Can you advise me on why you are switching to the larger pipe?
@@TomGregory-n7t The smaller ones worked but had a little too much flex. You could get away with them but if I had to do it again I would have went with the larger ones.
Have you seen any issue with the pvc deforming the mold of the pa? Assuming you store your kayak on the trailer year round? About to do this and just curious. Great video!
thin pvc like this has some give and shapes to the kayaks hull, it won’t warp your kayak hull unless you strap it down tight as shit and store it in an oven 😂
@@sambageian PVC comes in different Schedules, 40 and 80 are the 2 primary, with some thin-wall tossed in. The thin stuff ( I THINK it's Sched 20) will probably get a bit warped and maybe brittle. Not sure. But, I wouldn't trust it. Sched 40 is what 99% of houses with PVC have. Sched 80 is thick and rigid. Then, there is the electrical ENT pipe that I've seen some folks use. Right now, I'm leaning towards Sched 40 for the buiid I'm getting ready to do.
Great video especially showing all the tools and parts and measurements A+
Thanks man, I appreciate that.
Great job and pvc make the best rails . One tip to make water launching a little easier is to simply pull your kayak back around 4 feet . That puts it closer to the water and floats it off easily
That PA will definitely slide and down that trailer super easy. Makes loading at the end of the day much easier.
Yea I’m really looking forward to not having to use a cart very often.
@@danielperryfishing3046 yes sir. I loved our PA’s but man the weight was something else. Just recently picked up the Lynx. So far I really like it.
Thanks for the thorough run down. Just what I needed!
Thanks man , cause I didn't have a clue.
I did this to my jon boat trailer and works great
I did it on my Gheenoe trailer and I didn't have to back down the ramp as far, or a pond launch.
I have two on 14 gauge and it works fine
Very Nive Job! Thanks
Curious, why not just u-bolt the pvc to the frame? Wouldn't that use less material? Maybe there's something I'm not thinking about.
Wouldn't be a bad idea. You might would lose the flex of the struts and have permanent holes in your trailer.
Edit - Spacing for the Hobie is from the center of one bolt to the center of the other. Not from PVC to PVC.
Any updates on the trailer?lessons learned? I made the same exact one for my AP120.thinking of carpeting the PVC bunks just not sure if it will stick.
@@billbob670 Sorry I sold it a while back. I have posted in another comment that I would go with the larger pvc. But besides that it worked fine.
I'm starting a similar build on a Harbor Freight trailer and for 2 kayaks. I've been mentally debating between the 3" and 4".
Can you advise me on why you are switching to the larger pipe?
@@TomGregory-n7t The smaller ones worked but had a little too much flex. You could get away with them but if I had to do it again I would have went with the larger ones.
Why did you choose gray conduit vs white pvc? The white pvc is a lot less expensive, so I’m guessing there must be a reason.
Man, I honestly don't remember. It wasn't for any particular reason though.
What in the center to center of the PVC for spacing on the 14 pa? C to C with wise?
Sorry I can’t answer that. I actually just sold the trailer. Good luck though.
Have you seen any issue with the pvc deforming the mold of the pa? Assuming you store your kayak on the trailer year round? About to do this and just curious. Great video!
thin pvc like this has some give and shapes to the kayaks hull, it won’t warp your kayak hull unless you strap it down tight as shit and store it in an oven 😂
I keep my AP120 on these same exact bunks full time with no issues.
@@sambageian PVC comes in different Schedules, 40 and 80 are the 2 primary, with some thin-wall tossed in. The thin stuff ( I THINK it's Sched 20) will probably get a bit warped and maybe brittle. Not sure. But, I wouldn't trust it. Sched 40 is what 99% of houses with PVC have. Sched 80 is thick and rigid.
Then, there is the electrical ENT pipe that I've seen some folks use.
Right now, I'm leaning towards Sched 40 for the buiid I'm getting ready to do.
Way to big trailer for the yak. And I would spend a $ to get aluminum...
That trailer was made specifically for kayaks. So you're wrong.