I installed conduit on all the services in the garage to provide additional safety - There's much stuff always being moved around such as garden tools, wood, ladders, bikes on hangers etc. The kids were less than observant and careful when getting their stuff out. Did all that and then an electrician changed our board, rerouted the circuits into the garage and then installed his own cables using tie-wraps on the conduit. All the benefit undone!
I put all my garage cabling in black conduit pipes and fitted MK metal-clad switches and sockets just because I wanted that industrial feel to the garage. It appeals to my engineering mindset. Yes, I'm a DIYer with too much time on my hands 😊
Theory of why the wiring conduit was installed at the same level of joists rather than on top or below, is that maybe the garage owner planned to install a ceiling below and a floor covering above.
Just to pick up on something you said, ‘some diy’ers think it’s ok just to put the switch off but that means the neutral is still connected’ ?? 🤷🏼♂️ on all installs pre RCBO’s the neutrals are still connected even when you switch the circuit off at the board.
You always want to switch off the mcb or rcbo or if you want to super safe than switch off the main switch you want to because if it is ceiling rose wiring than there is a permanent Live! So always switch off the mcb or rcbo
I always enjoy seeing how you install various items if only to see if my installs have been wrong for the last 40 years!! This garage install seemed very 'over the top' but did not appear to incorporate a switch at the garage door AND the house door. This is usually essential and therefore the wiring as installed would not have been suitable. I would have removed all the existing wires and conduits and done a simple two way circuit to serve them all with the cable stapled to the top of the joists out of sight. Why would anyone need a remote control? Just more expense.
Interesting that you have all these cool tools for stripping flat twin and earth cable etc but you used a pair of snips to strip the core insulation on the flex cable. In an industrial/nuclear environment we used proprietary wire stripper to avoid inadvertently cutting some off one or more of the individual cores in the stranded cable. We then fitted AMP crimps/ferrules to the cores and terminated in KLIPPON terminals. I enjoy your channel particularly the solar installs and fault finding.
Great video thanks. Music too loud, had to keep turning up and down volume to avoid annoying people in the next room! Love the conduit work in a garage - someone was enjoying themselves!
Don't just turn off at the light switch as the neutral will still be live! The neutral is still live if you only turn off the MCB too! Only turning off the main switch or a double pole RCBO will isolator the neutral
These lights are called corrive or vapour proof . They are ip65 . The lads drilled holes in the base . Once you do this the warranty is void in most fittings. That's why you have the brackets and glands to keep the 1p65 rating . Any corrie you open will have a sticker inside stating this .
Very good point but “turning off” a main switch or 2P RCBO only _disconnects_ the circuit. Locking off is what establishes isolation - as mentioned in the video.
In older (c1960) UK houses there was a common practice that all the lighting neutrals converged to the kitchen fitting. As a teenager I was helping a neighbour (I'm retired now) and even though they though they'd turned off the circuit, when we started to unwind that common neutral the wires started sparking. There was another light on somewhere else, and we were mid-span in the return loop. Now it's the diverted neutrals, and all those EMC/RFI filter currentss in the electronics that could get you!
Its done like that (conduit and bends) coz it was done by a conscientious DIYer! A leccy pointed to some work in my house and said 'You did that didn't you?' I said Yeah how'd you know? ... 'Cos its too neat' LOL
You mentioned that just turning off the light switch leaves the neutral connected. A lot of breakers are just single pole, so they also would leave the neutral connected, so that might not be relevant. That said, here in Australia, even changing a light fitting like you are doing is illegal unless you are an electrician. There are some good safety tips in this video and quite helpful.
Same in Finland, only thing you can do without being a certified electrician is that you can change a broken cable on a single phase device with a plug and you can hang lights in the ceiling if there are connector blocks but you're not allowed to open the junction box
In Ontario (Canada), for residential, no permit/cert is required unless you are altering a circuit (adding/removing/relocating device). Swapping a light fixture, switch, or plug is aloud.
That's assuming that the line is the conductor being switched. If a DIYer wired it wrong originally then the single pole switch could be switching a neutral. This would cause the light to be off when the circuit is open but still have 230v sitting waiting to be touched. Wish we had it like Australia here too. DIYers can do the work from youtube videos but they will never be able to test properly.
@@hoonsurdaddy8482 That's far too nanny state for me. Are you also in favour of banning DIY building work? That can be dangerous. How about working on cars. Get that wrong and that can be very dangerous too. There are lots of people who do their own maintenance, work on their classic cars and much else. On the latter, it's not even necessary to get them MOT'd either if more than 40 years old. Follow your line, and all that has to stop. How about working on bicycles? There is a certain point at which interference in the freedom of individuals crosses a line. Stopping people replacing light fittings is one where it does in my view.
Love to see the pros using the same Mr. Quality crimper that I bought. I didn't have much trust in it but if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me!
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE! I stopped the video right in the middle, and replaced my 2 double-tube fluorescent fixtures with LED fixtures :) Looks amazing! Unfortunately, JCC is not available in any local 'USA' stores :( One hour later, I watched the rest of the video :)
Nice. I will never forget the day I climbed up a high ladder in a warehouse, to hacksaw through an SWA. I was an apprentice at the time and was assured that the circuit was dead by my boss. As I hacksawed, the blade blew in half and I nearly fell backwards off the ladder, but I grabbed the rung just in time. I should have known, as my Bosses nickname was The Cowboy. I thought it was only because he wore Cowboy boots, but there was more to it obviously.
Make sure that in a commercial environment that you also have a tag with contact info and company name. I have seen a number of times locks had to be cut off because at the end of a project there is still a lock on the device, the person forgot it. It's not so important with residential, unless you have many trades working in the same area. 🤠👍
Swapped out a light at Aunt's house last weekend... that telltale tingling feeling running down your arm turned out to be lights linked to the socket ring main....
Been there, done that at 2:27 and I'm a qualified electrician. Had an excavator cut a main feed line from the pole where the meter was to the house, was a 4x16mm2 copper I think. I had the copper end visible in the end and the pen didn't say anything. Also the driver of the excavator had his pen and it had given a signal that it was live, he then unscrewed the fuses that was to the garage and the signal was gone. I used a battery makita grinder to cut the cable, my intention was to repair the cable with two junctions and a meter or two of cable between. The driver was the homeowner and he was digging a new feed to the house, this one I was repairing was gonna be disconnected but was still a month till that. I got half way in the cable and queue a loud bang. Turns out the cable wasn't fed from the 3x35A fuses to the garage, it was fed by the main fuses, 3x125A (it's a farm). No harm done, just a scare. But can say my Fluke T5-1000 has been a lot more in use since that.
My lights are controlled off a lighting control module with PIR/Microwave motion sensing and manual dimming control. really easy to install. All lights fed from flexes which plug in.
I would add that labels in the consumer unit can be wrong. What is called 'sockets' could be lights. 'Upstairs' and 'downstairs' flipped or something called just 'power'. Very helpful. Even more reason to double and triple check power is off.
A point of note. When you lock off you should have a tag on the lock saying who locked off, so your name and some kind of contact details. If you want to go one step further you could also note when your predict the power will be restored. Sound excessive for a domestic CU but on a larger building the power being off can affect more people and systems.
What's the relevance for this on this video? They've always done it on other videos when there are bigger premisis or when there are more than one contractor on site. Doesn't relate to a DIY video.
@@Nailzy1985 I would say it is best practise to do it correctly ALL of the time rather than SOME of the time. Consider someone watching this who is not a subscriber and they only watch this one video. 3 seconds into the video Jordan says we are going to show you how to change lights safely.
@@sergiofernandez3725the person watching this video is watching a video on changing their own garage lights. You are totally missing the point. If the video was aimed at someone saying ‘here’s how to start your own business changing people’s electrics’ - you might have a point. He even says he doesn’t like showing people how to do things DIY….probably because people like you exist. Pay attention to what is said at the start.
The Waste from Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE) originated as an EU directive that was brought in to force in 2012 and subsequently adopted into law by all EU countries around the same time, which also included the U.K. So, most European countries will follow the same process for recycling old electrical and electronic equipment. IAnd quite coincidentally, I recently recycled a couple of fluorescent tubes at the Austrian equivalent to B&Q.
Something else to be aware of, If the house has an rcd then you need to keep those neutral and earth wires away from each other, otherwise you'll trip the rcd off.
Joe 90!! How many times have I used that reference only for it to sail over the head of the person I’m speaking to? 😅. I guess anyone younger than 55-ish won’t get it.
Fluorescent tube lights do suck, especially compared to LED tube replacements. I had an 8-foot tube fixture above my home workbench years ago. The bench and fixture had been installed by the previous homeowner. The bench was great; the old tubes, not so much. I replaced it with a normal 4-ft fixture and a direct-wire LED tube lamp. The energy use went from 2x 75 watt tubes (150w total) to 17w for one LED tube, and overall, the bench is much brighter with the one new tube.
After watching this video, I can now see the benefit of a Laser level. Taken years though. I'm really old skool and stuck in my ways. Slowly being dragged kicking and screaming into the modern world. I am going to buy a Laser level. My question is. Does the DeWalt laser have a pendulum lock? I cant decide between this and the Bosch.
Not sure about the newest LED lamps, but I checked one or two years ago, you had to get really good LED lamps to reach higher efficiency than fluorescent tubes. A fluorescent tube has roughly 77lm/W, so check first if you don't buy old stock with less than 100lm/W, otherwise you're not saving as much energy as you expect. BTW: if you use retrofit LED tubes, these have less luminosity than a fluorescent tube, so you probably will need extra lamps to keep the same amount of ligthing. One thing is good however: no more waiting until the lamps start, at least if you have conventional ballasts. So maybe switchting the conventional ballast to an electronic one could be the better option. If you exactly know what you are doing.
The spec on the units they installed are 134lm/W (assuming they are the 5ft/29W model JC180041). Retrofits are as you say not as bright, we recently had our retrofit tubes replaced with panels (in false ceiling grids) in my workplace (education provider) and found that we could reduce the number of fittings by around 1/3rd and maintain a similar light level in most offices and corridors and some class rooms.
One business question I do have slightly off topic is that what do most businesses owners do about employees vans, with regards to taking them home, personal use and fuel etc.
I've got 10 5ft fluorescent lights a mix of 58 watt and 65 watt in my garage and workshop I only fitted these light's 6 years ago they are like new. So I might keep the fitting's and rewire the inside's by removing the starter and ballast, so the incoming supply go's to one end of the light fitting and replace the fluorescent tube's with LED tubes I will do this in the new year as the light's are fine they are not all on at the same time. I know this can be done by the home DIYer and that's me and is my limit now I do know the rules and regs . I did do the electric supply my self installing a 40 amp, 10mm cable to the workshop and garage I fitted a ring main with 12 double sockets with a neon (MK) 3 switch fuse units with neon (MK) and 4 single sockets with neon (MK) and 2 lighting circuit's but this was done in 1998, a year earlier in 1997 I did rewire my house when the DIYer was allowed to do home electrics ,But it was checked over by my uncle who was at the time a qualified industrial and domestic electrician, who could not fault my work and was happy with it. But now any thing that need's to be done I will use an electrician. Great video keep up the good work I do enjoy your video's , I do regret that I was not an electrician. Take care👍
Depends on how long you occupy your garage. if it's not that long, the payback will not justify the cost especially if you have to pay someone to do it. Do the sums first.
Then do you can not sell new stuff to your customers. 😂 I self "tested" this pure LED stuff lights at places how are dark so that you need lights on near 24/7. They are crazy stuff and no companies buy 50 lights new for 100£ per each. So we buy the cheap 15£ stuff. They are trash! Just buy new LED-tubes and change it - costs less as you think. 😂 It is a better solution after this can do every customers self without call an electrician every month. 😊
A few years ago we had a number of bad fluorescent tubes in the basement. Paid about $8 US each for replacement LED tubes. Today they are more expensive, $20 for a two pack. The hardest thing was finding the taller ladder.
Ah what a nice video, really loved it 😍 At 3:12 you finalised the test procedure, after testing all combinations of L, N, PE. Wouldn’t it be a good idea to also test each conductor to a ground rod, to exclude having broken PE conductors and hence false-negative readings to earth? 🙂
Oh dear! following a change of the tubes in the warehouse where I worked, we would smash the old tubes against a wall or pile them up and drive a forklift truck over them. This was back in the 80's when we didn't know any better.
Great looking lights. Do these lights flicker when being filmed or did you need to select a certain frame rate to remove the flicker? I'm trying to find some lights that don't flicker to reduce headaches. Thanks
‘LED fluorescent tube replacements’ are probably the worst replacements. Shorter more compact units and more of them would spread the light far better and need minimal extra wiring. For the same result as yours and cheaper just cut out the old transformers and use 4ft, 5ft or 6ft energiser led tubes.
You should have connected a flex to each fitting and terminated the feed cable into the conduit junction boxes then all you have to do is fit the lights to the joists and terminate the JB’s
I thought it was phospher powder lol. Here we find PCB's in really old fluro fittings (Ballast and Capacitors) which is bad if it gets into the food chain.
@@blower1 but it's not just the mercury you need to worry about, it's the toxic phosphor dust that coats the inside of the glass, unlike the mercury, witch will eventually leave, the dust won't.
Check voltages with a 2-pole voltage tester. They are already available cheaply at hardware stores. Test this in a socket beforehand. This works very well with the round European sockets. It's really dangerous if the light switch is in the neutral conductor. Then an electrician has to correct the wiring. Hardware stores in Germany are taking back fluorescent tubes.
It's much less likely in the UK as polarisation is designed in from the beginning. A simple plug-in tester will show reversed line and neutral. In any event, if working on electrics it's safer to turn off the double pole mains switch anyway (and that garage has it's own CU so won't affect the rest of the property).
Just on WEEE Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment recycling, it was brought in by Europe not the UK, a great initiative to ensure landfill isn’t filled with billions of reusable items
If you just turn of the MCB in the CU, then unless it's one of those relatively rare double pole ones, there will still be a neutral connected to the light fittings. Safer to turn off the main switch and rely on battery lighting in this case.
Depends on the country you are in, if double pole MCBs are rare. Here in Germany they are rare, but e.g. in Austria double pole MCBs are a requirement. As here in Germany main switches are not standard for individual distribution units, the easiest way is to switch off the RCD, as it will trip anyways if you connect neutral and PE by accident.
@@johnscaramis2515 I the UK the trend is away from shared RCDs with individual MCBs to RCBOs per circuit. Most of those are single pole too. The only way in that case to isolate the neutral is to turn off the main switch.
After Jordan said you could place the brackets anywhere on the light fitting, I didn't understand why one light fitting was screwed directly without using the brackets?! 🤔
Isn't the neutral still connected when you turn off the circuit breaker? You mentioned this "problem" just using the light switch. When I change light fittings I keep getting RCD trips due to neutral touching earth. Can you get two pole MCBs or RCBOs?
As a non-electrician, whenever working on electrics, after isolating I always do a voltage test between L/N, L/E, and N/E. If I find stray voltage, I always do a low impedance voltage test to make doubly sure. I do this on EVERY part of the circuit, in case someone has linked one circuit to another through a piece of equipment. Only then do I start work. I'd advise this to anyone who wants to do their own electrical work.
You should still prove your test device immediately before and after use either against a known source or, as in the video, using a dedicated proving unit.
not to mention sticking the busted ends into a light fixture to pop them. but fluorescent lights contain mercury and toxic phosphor dust! so make sure you toss them into a lamp chipper unit like the bulb eater.
My garage lights are Ansell Top-Line LED battens, as recommended by Jordan in a video just hours before I moved in to my forever home. ❤ 9000LM over the workbench is completely insane. 😊
Cool video. Just a quick question: I've noticed your switches are configured up for off and down for on. I understand that, conventional for the UK. Why then are the breakers in the service panel up for on and down for off? Why are they reversed?
Complete guess: flipping a switch down is easier than flipping up. Therefor, to make it easier to turn on a light you flip down (safety). On the flip side (see what I did there?) it should be harder to energize a circuit on a CB than it should be to cut power. That’s my non-researched, non-professional theory
What you've said only relates to one way lighting circuits.. Anything more than this and depending which switch was operated last will have an effect on wether the switch your operating is up or down for on
Thanks for this really helpful. I recently installed an LED batten and it even though it works perfectly it makes a sort of cyclical ticking noise. Does this mean its got a fault or is this normal? The brand is meridian and its IP65 anti-corosive etc.
@@jamesbrett6518 I don't think electronic ballasts were a big thing 20 years ago. And if you exchange the conventional ballast with an electronic one, I would not call the lamp 20 years old anymore, but maybe that's only me.
Question: I'm currently considering doing something similar; is there a limit to the number of fittings that can be powered from a single light switch? It it just a simple case of adding up the power consumption and staying within the amp rating of the switch? Or do we have to derate for things like reactive load? My garage currently has a single GLS fitting with a CFL (so yes, it really does suck), and I'm planning to do something similar to what is in the video. In my case, the roof beams run longitudinally down the garage, so I'm going to put a row of battens down each side.
@@funnyman13231 In the UK if you can even find an electrician who will do a “small” job like this you can easily wait months. Most will either decline to quote or deliberately price themselves out when they see it’s not a multi-day job.
Fitting tube lights in 2023 with no explanation why? PLEASE explain why you would do this? LED batten lights are MUCH brighter, cheaper to run and last basically forever. This is the first video I've seen on this brilliant channel where I'm forced to ask "why would you do that?". It's like upgrading filament bulbs to CFL bulbs. Nobody still does that.
tests for circuit between wires and the conclusion is "there is no voltage" so it is safe. Yes there is no voltage, because there is no circuit between these wires, but one of the wires can still be live and dangerous. How about a single pole phase test, like the pen devices you described but with a proper and safer device like Benning DUSPOL for example ? I have watched some of your videos and they are interesting, but I have never seen you use such device. Don't you recommend this kind of test and why ?
NEVER TURN THE LIGHTSWITCH OFF AND GO TINKER ABOUT THE WIRES, ASK ME HOW I LEARNED THAT ! I Learned That When IW as A Kiddo, Got 250 All The Way Thru, Shocked The Socks Off Of Me
Proving that power is off with special unit is pointless, because one did not prove that the switch that was used to isolate circuit was actually the correct switch.
Two sparky's on the same circuit and the power wasn't isolated between the two circuits ? Health and safety hat on says DUH . No ring lighting circuit ?
sometimes im jealous of the European wiring , most seems to be easier with push on wire connectors, screw terminals, and safety features, most of the stuff i buy here in the USA is a pain to work with and half the time very cheap and possible fire hazards.
cool i like them to. and if i'm going to get LED, the drivers must have good long hangfire, i don't like the lights firing on instantly, it's more satisfying watching them come on randomly after flicking the switch. and to bad LED's don't require starters, i will miss that pinging noise! also weatherproof batten fixtures look daft without the silhouettes of tombstones at the ends, it just looks wrong.
My guess is most people only have their garage lights on for short periods of time. As such swapping fluorescent tubes for LEDs when they are not broken is going to have a payback period of decades. If you use it as a workshop then by all means upgrade them though.
Yep, this was the issue I had, 5 fluoro battens currently in use £4.99 for a new tube or £50 for an LED batten, needless to say, I just popped a new tube in
Depends on what kind of ballast your lamp has. Conventional ballasts may take long to start the light, so if they are used for only very short periods, switching over to LEDs is a matter of comfort. But basically you are right, if you have lightings that are only used sparsely and for a short amount of time, even a good old-fashioned lightbulb could be the best option.
@@bradbttl There is a bit of a problem with sticking with fluorescent lamps, a RoHS directive is in place "Prohibiting the placing on the market of all T5 and T8 fluorescent lamps" effectively banning the sale of fluorescent tubes, I'm not sure but supplier may be able to sell lamps currently in stock.
Nothing wrong with my garage lights, I changed them all a few weeks back, circa 400w down to 66w. Went with some nice LED battens from TLC Direct. Dual wattage, and 3 colour temperatures. Oh and I've got so much earth sleeving, it'll last me a lifetime, I have other colours as well.
Not sure how it was the other electrician’s fault, if you know someone else is working off the same board you don’t put it back on without checking where they’re at with their job
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I installed conduit on all the services in the garage to provide additional safety - There's much stuff always being moved around such as garden tools, wood, ladders, bikes on hangers etc. The kids were less than observant and careful when getting their stuff out. Did all that and then an electrician changed our board, rerouted the circuits into the garage and then installed his own cables using tie-wraps on the conduit. All the benefit undone!
I put all my garage cabling in black conduit pipes and fitted MK metal-clad switches and sockets just because I wanted that industrial feel to the garage. It appeals to my engineering mindset. Yes, I'm a DIYer with too much time on my hands 😊
Same with me, although the conduit only runs up to the roof trusses.
Theory of why the wiring conduit was installed at the same level of joists rather than on top or below, is that maybe the garage owner planned to install a ceiling below and a floor covering above.
Just to pick up on something you said, ‘some diy’ers think it’s ok just to put the switch off but that means the neutral is still connected’ ?? 🤷🏼♂️ on all installs pre RCBO’s the neutrals are still connected even when you switch the circuit off at the board.
Plus most rcbos are single pole anyway 🫠
You always want to switch off the mcb or rcbo or if you want to super safe than switch off the main switch you want to because if it is ceiling rose wiring than there is a permanent Live! So always switch off the mcb or rcbo
I always enjoy seeing how you install various items if only to see if my installs have been wrong for the last 40 years!! This garage install seemed very 'over the top' but did not appear to incorporate a switch at the garage door AND the house door. This is usually essential and therefore the wiring as installed would not have been suitable. I would have removed all the existing wires and conduits and done a simple two way circuit to serve them all with the cable stapled to the top of the joists out of sight. Why would anyone need a remote control? Just more expense.
thanks those led work lights are great...as a DIY bloke, i also appreciated their ease of fitting and flexibility to wire up.
Interesting that you have all these cool tools for stripping flat twin and earth cable etc but you used a pair of snips to strip the core insulation on the flex cable. In an industrial/nuclear environment we used proprietary wire stripper to avoid inadvertently cutting some off one or more of the individual cores in the stranded cable. We then fitted AMP crimps/ferrules to the cores and terminated in KLIPPON terminals. I enjoy your channel particularly the solar installs and fault finding.
Great video thanks. Music too loud, had to keep turning up and down volume to avoid annoying people in the next room! Love the conduit work in a garage - someone was enjoying themselves!
Don't just turn off at the light switch as the neutral will still be live! The neutral is still live if you only turn off the MCB too! Only turning off the main switch or a double pole RCBO will isolator the neutral
These lights are called corrive or vapour proof . They are ip65 . The lads drilled holes in the base . Once you do this the warranty is void in most fittings. That's why you have the brackets and glands to keep the 1p65 rating . Any corrie you open will have a sticker inside stating this .
Very good point but “turning off” a main switch or 2P RCBO only _disconnects_ the circuit. Locking off is what establishes isolation - as mentioned in the video.
In older (c1960) UK houses there was a common practice that all the lighting neutrals converged to the kitchen fitting. As a teenager I was helping a neighbour (I'm retired now) and even though they though they'd turned off the circuit, when we started to unwind that common neutral the wires started sparking. There was another light on somewhere else, and we were mid-span in the return loop.
Now it's the diverted neutrals, and all those EMC/RFI filter currentss in the electronics that could get you!
Its done like that (conduit and bends) coz it was done by a conscientious DIYer! A leccy pointed to some work in my house and said 'You did that didn't you?' I said Yeah how'd you know? ... 'Cos its too neat' LOL
I did this myself two years ago and it was a massive improvement
You mentioned that just turning off the light switch leaves the neutral connected. A lot of breakers are just single pole, so they also would leave the neutral connected, so that might not be relevant. That said, here in Australia, even changing a light fitting like you are doing is illegal unless you are an electrician.
There are some good safety tips in this video and quite helpful.
Same in Finland, only thing you can do without being a certified electrician is that you can change a broken cable on a single phase device with a plug and you can hang lights in the ceiling if there are connector blocks but you're not allowed to open the junction box
In Ontario (Canada), for residential, no permit/cert is required unless you are altering a circuit (adding/removing/relocating device). Swapping a light fixture, switch, or plug is aloud.
That's assuming that the line is the conductor being switched. If a DIYer wired it wrong originally then the single pole switch could be switching a neutral. This would cause the light to be off when the circuit is open but still have 230v sitting waiting to be touched. Wish we had it like Australia here too. DIYers can do the work from youtube videos but they will never be able to test properly.
That's how it should be in the UK. But when you've got qualified electricians making instructional videos l, why would you call a professional?! 🤦
@@hoonsurdaddy8482 That's far too nanny state for me. Are you also in favour of banning DIY building work? That can be dangerous. How about working on cars. Get that wrong and that can be very dangerous too. There are lots of people who do their own maintenance, work on their classic cars and much else. On the latter, it's not even necessary to get them MOT'd either if more than 40 years old. Follow your line, and all that has to stop. How about working on bicycles?
There is a certain point at which interference in the freedom of individuals crosses a line. Stopping people replacing light fittings is one where it does in my view.
Love to see the pros using the same Mr. Quality crimper that I bought. I didn't have much trust in it but if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me!
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE! I stopped the video right in the middle, and replaced my 2 double-tube fluorescent fixtures with LED fixtures :) Looks amazing! Unfortunately, JCC is not available in any local 'USA' stores :( One hour later, I watched the rest of the video :)
My lights don't suck, as I had mine done a couple of years ago and are spot on.
Nice. I will never forget the day I climbed up a high ladder in a warehouse, to hacksaw through an SWA. I was an apprentice at the time and was assured that the circuit was dead by my boss. As I hacksawed, the blade blew in half and I nearly fell backwards off the ladder, but I grabbed the rung just in time. I should have known, as my Bosses nickname was The Cowboy. I thought it was only because he wore Cowboy boots, but there was more to it obviously.
With regard to securing the fusebox to prevent electrocution, if there are multiple electricians working, surely each should fit their own padlock?
You cannot all fit a lock on so usually you put one lock on then the key goes in a lock box which all people put their own lock on the box.
Make sure that in a commercial environment that you also have a tag with contact info and company name. I have seen a number of times locks had to be cut off because at the end of a project there is still a lock on the device, the person forgot it. It's not so important with residential, unless you have many trades working in the same area. 🤠👍
I repalced my GLS fitting in my loft with a nice flourcent tube over 20 years ago. It tokk me 4 hours to do but I was lone working.
Swapped out a light at Aunt's house last weekend... that telltale tingling feeling running down your arm turned out to be lights linked to the socket ring main....
Been there, done that at 2:27 and I'm a qualified electrician. Had an excavator cut a main feed line from the pole where the meter was to the house, was a 4x16mm2 copper I think. I had the copper end visible in the end and the pen didn't say anything. Also the driver of the excavator had his pen and it had given a signal that it was live, he then unscrewed the fuses that was to the garage and the signal was gone. I used a battery makita grinder to cut the cable, my intention was to repair the cable with two junctions and a meter or two of cable between. The driver was the homeowner and he was digging a new feed to the house, this one I was repairing was gonna be disconnected but was still a month till that. I got half way in the cable and queue a loud bang. Turns out the cable wasn't fed from the 3x35A fuses to the garage, it was fed by the main fuses, 3x125A (it's a farm). No harm done, just a scare. But can say my Fluke T5-1000 has been a lot more in use since that.
My lights are controlled off a lighting control module with PIR/Microwave motion sensing and manual dimming control. really easy to install. All lights fed from flexes which plug in.
I did this years ago when I upgraded all my bulbs to LED, well worth it!
I would add that labels in the consumer unit can be wrong. What is called 'sockets' could be lights. 'Upstairs' and 'downstairs' flipped or something called just 'power'. Very helpful. Even more reason to double and triple check power is off.
A point of note. When you lock off you should have a tag on the lock saying who locked off, so your name and some kind of contact details. If you want to go one step further you could also note when your predict the power will be restored. Sound excessive for a domestic CU but on a larger building the power being off can affect more people and systems.
What's the relevance for this on this video? They've always done it on other videos when there are bigger premisis or when there are more than one contractor on site. Doesn't relate to a DIY video.
@@Nailzy1985 Agree - pedants seem to lurk round every corner these days 😂
@@Nailzy1985 I would say it is best practise to do it correctly ALL of the time rather than SOME of the time. Consider someone watching this who is not a subscriber and they only watch this one video. 3 seconds into the video Jordan says we are going to show you how to change lights safely.
@@sergiofernandez3725the person watching this video is watching a video on changing their own garage lights. You are totally missing the point. If the video was aimed at someone saying ‘here’s how to start your own business changing people’s electrics’ - you might have a point. He even says he doesn’t like showing people how to do things DIY….probably because people like you exist. Pay attention to what is said at the start.
The Waste from Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE) originated as an EU directive that was brought in to force in 2012 and subsequently adopted into law by all EU countries around the same time, which also included the U.K. So, most European countries will follow the same process for recycling old electrical and electronic equipment. IAnd quite coincidentally, I recently recycled a couple of fluorescent tubes at the Austrian equivalent to B&Q.
Something else to be aware of, If the house has an rcd then you need to keep those neutral and earth wires away from each other, otherwise you'll trip the rcd off.
😂😂
This bloke is an insufferable twat but he isn't stupid at all, electrical wise or business wise. I'm sure he didn't need to be told this mate.
Dig those Joe 90 Glasses!
No wonder you know all the answers!
Joe 90!! How many times have I used that reference only for it to sail over the head of the person I’m speaking to? 😅. I guess anyone younger than 55-ish won’t get it.
Fluorescent tube lights do suck, especially compared to LED tube replacements. I had an 8-foot tube fixture above my home workbench years ago. The bench and fixture had been installed by the previous homeowner. The bench was great; the old tubes, not so much. I replaced it with a normal 4-ft fixture and a direct-wire LED tube lamp. The energy use went from 2x 75 watt tubes (150w total) to 17w for one LED tube, and overall, the bench is much brighter with the one new tube.
cool, now get an integrated fixture with exposed LED's. diffusers suck!
I swapped my fluorescent for LED by just changing the tubes and starters. Took around 5 mins for four tubes.
After watching this video, I can now see the benefit of a Laser level. Taken years though. I'm really old skool and stuck in my ways. Slowly being dragged kicking and screaming into the modern world. I am going to buy a Laser level. My question is. Does the DeWalt laser have a pendulum lock? I cant decide between this and the Bosch.
Not sure about the newest LED lamps, but I checked one or two years ago, you had to get really good LED lamps to reach higher efficiency than fluorescent tubes. A fluorescent tube has roughly 77lm/W, so check first if you don't buy old stock with less than 100lm/W, otherwise you're not saving as much energy as you expect.
BTW: if you use retrofit LED tubes, these have less luminosity than a fluorescent tube, so you probably will need extra lamps to keep the same amount of ligthing.
One thing is good however: no more waiting until the lamps start, at least if you have conventional ballasts.
So maybe switchting the conventional ballast to an electronic one could be the better option. If you exactly know what you are doing.
The spec on the units they installed are 134lm/W (assuming they are the 5ft/29W model JC180041). Retrofits are as you say not as bright, we recently had our retrofit tubes replaced with panels (in false ceiling grids) in my workplace (education provider) and found that we could reduce the number of fittings by around 1/3rd and maintain a similar light level in most offices and corridors and some class rooms.
One business question I do have slightly off topic is that what do most businesses owners do about employees vans, with regards to taking them home, personal use and fuel etc.
I've got 10 5ft fluorescent lights a mix of 58 watt and 65 watt in my garage and workshop I only fitted these light's 6 years ago they are like new. So I might keep the fitting's and rewire the inside's by removing the starter and ballast, so the incoming supply go's to one end of the light fitting and replace the fluorescent tube's with LED tubes I will do this in the new year as the light's are fine they are not all on at the same time. I know this can be done by the home DIYer and that's me and is my limit now I do know the rules and regs . I did do the electric supply my self installing a 40 amp, 10mm cable to the workshop and garage I fitted a ring main with 12 double sockets with a neon (MK) 3 switch fuse units with neon (MK) and 4 single sockets with neon (MK) and 2 lighting circuit's but this was done in 1998, a year earlier in 1997 I did rewire my house when the DIYer was allowed to do home electrics ,But it was checked over by my uncle who was at the time a qualified industrial and domestic electrician, who could not fault my work and was happy with it. But now any thing that need's to be done I will use an electrician. Great video keep up the good work I do enjoy your video's , I do regret that I was not an electrician. Take care👍
Depends on how long you occupy your garage. if it's not that long, the payback will not justify the cost especially if you have to pay someone to do it. Do the sums first.
Why not just use drop in LED replacement bulbs?
Then do you can not sell new stuff to your customers. 😂
I self "tested" this pure LED stuff lights at places how are dark so that you need lights on near 24/7. They are crazy stuff and no companies buy 50 lights new for 100£ per each. So we buy the cheap 15£ stuff. They are trash!
Just buy new LED-tubes and change it - costs less as you think. 😂 It is a better solution after this can do every customers self without call an electrician every month. 😊
A few years ago we had a number of bad fluorescent tubes in the basement. Paid about $8 US each for replacement LED tubes. Today they are more expensive, $20 for a two pack. The hardest thing was finding the taller ladder.
You'd be a terrible business owner.
Gotta love a toolbox that contains both a Knipex cable stripper and Mister Quality ferrule crimper
The wiring diagram could be interpreted as if the lights were in series instead of in parallel. Otherwise, great content, can't wait for more!
Ah what a nice video, really loved it 😍
At 3:12 you finalised the test procedure, after testing all combinations of L, N, PE. Wouldn’t it be a good idea to also test each conductor to a ground rod, to exclude having broken PE conductors and hence false-negative readings to earth? 🙂
Oh dear! following a change of the tubes in the warehouse where I worked, we would smash the old tubes against a wall or pile them up and drive a forklift truck over them. This was back in the 80's when we didn't know any better.
What was the burden on the health service for you and your offspring?
RIP, your gone. yummy mercury vapor and phosphor dust!
Those JCC lights look decent. Recently added led lights similar to my workshop but they where dreadful quality.
Great looking lights. Do these lights flicker when being filmed or did you need to select a certain frame rate to remove the flicker? I'm trying to find some lights that don't flicker to reduce headaches. Thanks
Hi, thanks, now the problem is why they dont sell in others country the ToughLED™ Pro 4ft Single 18W :( , need 5 of them
‘LED fluorescent tube replacements’ are probably the worst replacements. Shorter more compact units and more of them would spread the light far better and need minimal extra wiring. For the same result as yours and cheaper just cut out the old transformers and use 4ft, 5ft or 6ft energiser led tubes.
You should have connected a flex to each fitting and terminated the feed cable into the conduit junction boxes then all you have to do is fit the lights to the joists and terminate the JB’s
JCC integrated fittings huh? I hope you kept the receipt.
There is no such thing as mercury powder. Nice install lads!
Mercury vapour is a thing though, and that's whats in a fluorescent tube.
I thought it was phospher powder lol.
Here we find PCB's in really old fluro fittings (Ballast and Capacitors) which is bad if it gets into the food chain.
@@Rx4Lyfeproper gender-bending chemicals which have a lot to answer for!
@@blower1 but it's not just the mercury you need to worry about, it's the toxic phosphor dust that coats the inside of the glass, unlike the mercury, witch will eventually leave, the dust won't.
Check voltages with a 2-pole voltage tester. They are already available cheaply at hardware stores. Test this in a socket beforehand. This works very well with the round European sockets.
It's really dangerous if the light switch is in the neutral conductor. Then an electrician has to correct the wiring.
Hardware stores in Germany are taking back fluorescent tubes.
It's much less likely in the UK as polarisation is designed in from the beginning. A simple plug-in tester will show reversed line and neutral.
In any event, if working on electrics it's safer to turn off the double pole mains switch anyway (and that garage has it's own CU so won't affect the rest of the property).
Tell me if I'm wrong but did I just see a flash when Luke was connecting the end of line fitting?
Just on WEEE Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment recycling, it was brought in by Europe not the UK, a great initiative to ensure landfill isn’t filled with billions of reusable items
I like all the features of these lights but every single JCC fitting I’ve ever fitted has failed (mainly floods) I must be unlucky 🤣
If you just turn of the MCB in the CU, then unless it's one of those relatively rare double pole ones, there will still be a neutral connected to the light fittings. Safer to turn off the main switch and rely on battery lighting in this case.
Depends on the country you are in, if double pole MCBs are rare. Here in Germany they are rare, but e.g. in Austria double pole MCBs are a requirement. As here in Germany main switches are not standard for individual distribution units, the easiest way is to switch off the RCD, as it will trip anyways if you connect neutral and PE by accident.
@@johnscaramis2515 I the UK the trend is away from shared RCDs with individual MCBs to RCBOs per circuit. Most of those are single pole too. The only way in that case to isolate the neutral is to turn off the main switch.
What are the trousers and boots you guys are wearing? Want to pick some up myself
Can you reduce the brightness of the LED light strips?
After Jordan said you could place the brackets anywhere on the light fitting, I didn't understand why one light fitting was screwed directly without using the brackets?! 🤔
Do you still rate these fittings? I see there's a few places selling them off as clearance??
i wired a light in my porch a couple of years ago and thought turning off the switch would protect me, until i got a shock!
Will wholesalers still take old tubes if you didn't buy the new ones from them?
Isn't the neutral still connected when you turn off the circuit breaker? You mentioned this "problem" just using the light switch. When I change light fittings I keep getting RCD trips due to neutral touching earth. Can you get two pole MCBs or RCBOs?
As a non-electrician, whenever working on electrics, after isolating I always do a voltage test between L/N, L/E, and N/E. If I find stray voltage, I always do a low impedance voltage test to make doubly sure. I do this on EVERY part of the circuit, in case someone has linked one circuit to another through a piece of equipment. Only then do I start work. I'd advise this to anyone who wants to do their own electrical work.
You should still prove your test device immediately before and after use either against a known source or, as in the video, using a dedicated proving unit.
Excessive conduit, could this be for NVQ portfolio? 😮
The best way to dispose of old lamps is a lightsaber fight in the car park...
Promise iv never done this
not to mention sticking the busted ends into a light fixture to pop them. but fluorescent lights contain mercury and toxic phosphor dust! so make sure you toss them into a lamp chipper unit like the bulb eater.
Good video lads
Although some wholesalers have started charging for lamp recycling nown
I'm considering installing these, what is the 'JC1800......' number for the light battens please? TIA.
which actual JCC tough LED pro model did you use please
My garage lights are Ansell Top-Line LED battens, as recommended by Jordan in a video just hours before I moved in to my forever home. ❤
9000LM over the workbench is completely insane. 😊
Can you drop a link please 👍🏻
@@TrickyTree84 price is up about 20% now though
They came from superlecdirect
Surely the breaker doesn't kill the neutral feed.
keep the old lights change them to led
Cool video. Just a quick question: I've noticed your switches are configured up for off and down for on. I understand that, conventional for the UK. Why then are the breakers in the service panel up for on and down for off? Why are they reversed?
Complete guess: flipping a switch down is easier than flipping up. Therefor, to make it easier to turn on a light you flip down (safety). On the flip side (see what I did there?) it should be harder to energize a circuit on a CB than it should be to cut power. That’s my non-researched, non-professional theory
What you've said only relates to one way lighting circuits..
Anything more than this and depending which switch was operated last will have an effect on wether the switch your operating is up or down for on
Thanks for this really helpful. I recently installed an LED batten and it even though it works perfectly it makes a sort of cyclical ticking noise. Does this mean its got a fault or is this normal? The brand is meridian and its IP65 anti-corosive etc.
The racking and storage do you have links to them ?
You tube: how many adverts would you like Luke?
Luke: Yes
they done it this way, because they are proud on their work.
Those connectors takes solid, few stranded and stranded without ferrules okay @ 16:00
My fluorescent garage lights have lasted 20 years without a single failure.
same here
Yeah seemed like nice lamps, but trying to pull the longer lasting card seems a bit silly.
@@scania9786 Fluorescent might not be as efficient, but it will definitely last longer.
@@HIDLad001especially with a decent electronic ballast
@@jamesbrett6518 I don't think electronic ballasts were a big thing 20 years ago. And if you exchange the conventional ballast with an electronic one, I would not call the lamp 20 years old anymore, but maybe that's only me.
Question: I'm currently considering doing something similar; is there a limit to the number of fittings that can be powered from a single light switch? It it just a simple case of adding up the power consumption and staying within the amp rating of the switch? Or do we have to derate for things like reactive load? My garage currently has a single GLS fitting with a CFL (so yes, it really does suck), and I'm planning to do something similar to what is in the video. In my case, the roof beams run longitudinally down the garage, so I'm going to put a row of battens down each side.
Get an electrician and leave it to the professionals
@@funnyman13231 In the UK if you can even find an electrician who will do a “small” job like this you can easily wait months. Most will either decline to quote or deliberately price themselves out when they see it’s not a multi-day job.
Fitting tube lights in 2023 with no explanation why? PLEASE explain why you would do this? LED batten lights are MUCH brighter, cheaper to run and last basically forever. This is the first video I've seen on this brilliant channel where I'm forced to ask "why would you do that?". It's like upgrading filament bulbs to CFL bulbs. Nobody still does that.
The 10% code for safe style doesn’t seem to be accepted by the site, is the code correct thanks 😁
tests for circuit between wires and the conclusion is "there is no voltage" so it is safe.
Yes there is no voltage, because there is no circuit between these wires, but one of the wires can still be live and dangerous. How about a single pole phase test, like the pen devices you described but with a proper and safer device like Benning DUSPOL for example ?
I have watched some of your videos and they are interesting, but I have never seen you use such device. Don't you recommend this kind of test and why ?
NEVER TURN THE LIGHTSWITCH OFF AND GO TINKER ABOUT THE WIRES, ASK ME HOW I LEARNED THAT !
I Learned That When IW as A Kiddo, Got 250 All The Way Thru, Shocked The Socks Off Of Me
Mine don't, I don't have a garage.
Proving that power is off with special unit is pointless, because one did not prove that the switch that was used to isolate circuit was actually the correct switch.
Just subscribed nd great video to watch. Will have to invest in a few of them lights for garage and loft
I couldn’t find out if the lighting circuit is protected by RCBO or RCD, is that RCBO or MCB?
Two sparky's on the same circuit and the power wasn't isolated between the two circuits ? Health and safety hat on says DUH . No ring lighting circuit ?
Which model ToughLed Pro's are you using here?
What's wrong with using a DMM to test voltage?
Thought you had bugged off
sometimes im jealous of the European wiring , most seems to be easier with push on wire connectors, screw terminals, and safety features, most of the stuff i buy here in the USA is a pain to work with and half the time very cheap and possible fire hazards.
Love those new lights and not to expensive but looks so easy to install its worth spending a little bit more and its future proof
i prefere my fluorescent tubes thanks . . got TONs of spare tubes thanksfully
cool i like them to. and if i'm going to get LED, the drivers must have good long hangfire, i don't like the lights firing on instantly, it's more satisfying watching them come on randomly after flicking the switch. and to bad LED's don't require starters, i will miss that pinging noise! also weatherproof batten fixtures look daft without the silhouettes of tombstones at the ends, it just looks wrong.
My guess is most people only have their garage lights on for short periods of time. As such swapping fluorescent tubes for LEDs when they are not broken is going to have a payback period of decades. If you use it as a workshop then by all means upgrade them though.
Yep, this was the issue I had, 5 fluoro battens currently in use £4.99 for a new tube or £50 for an LED batten, needless to say, I just popped a new tube in
Depends on what kind of ballast your lamp has. Conventional ballasts may take long to start the light, so if they are used for only very short periods, switching over to LEDs is a matter of comfort.
But basically you are right, if you have lightings that are only used sparsely and for a short amount of time, even a good old-fashioned lightbulb could be the best option.
@@johnscaramis2515 I have conventional ballasts, all starters were replaced with rapid start electronic starters which start the lamp in 0.3 seconds
@@bradbttl There is a bit of a problem with sticking with fluorescent lamps, a RoHS directive is in place "Prohibiting the placing on the market of all T5 and T8 fluorescent lamps" effectively banning the sale of fluorescent tubes, I'm not sure but supplier may be able to sell lamps currently in stock.
Love watching your videos there always spot on
Nothing wrong with my garage lights, I changed them all a few weeks back, circa 400w down to 66w. Went with some nice LED battens from TLC Direct. Dual wattage, and 3 colour temperatures. Oh and I've got so much earth sleeving, it'll last me a lifetime, I have other colours as well.
Only a 2 pole mcb and a 2 pole rcbo wwith isolate neutral .
Not sure how it was the other electrician’s fault, if you know someone else is working off the same board you don’t put it back on without checking where they’re at with their job
also using Ferruls on push in Terminals?
Like your folding knife Jordan. Have you a link ?? Thanks !
That’s probably the Unilite one which you can get a discount on there is a link the video description
Brilliant light fittings
I prefer the flourescent