This is very helpful, appreciate it. Also the input from Denis R about the adjustment of height. I sell louvers and sunshades and had always wondered how the values were generated and this info will definitely come in handy.
Ok, so I bought a 2 story house about a year ago that had enormous roof overhangs. (Called it the mushroom house even though the normal climate is hot and humid). Before then I never thought much about the overhangs as in I figured that they were more part of the style than functional. Now, I'm learning about how much those overhangs are keeping the sun (and rain) off the walls of the house. I think its reducing the heat load and reducing paint fading.
Hey Darius, congrats on the new home! The shading and reduced heat load is a great benefit, but keeping the rain away from the wall is one of the best things you can do for a house. Good selection!
You should put your overhang 10 to 14 inches higher to maximum sun gain (full glass) in the winter and recalculate the extension of the shade. I also like to take for account few hours before and after the sun culmination.
May I know why The Internal Shading Devices & Solar reflection due to adjacent buildings are the two limitations on using to design building envelopes for energy efficiency? Thank you
Internal shading does not prevent your HVAC system from dealing with the thermal gain, so exterior shading is better. Adjacent buildings can block access to the sun. These are not the only two limitations on energy efficient design.
@@HyperfineArchitecture if the wall face was facing a different aspect such as SW, how would you simply use the high angle of the sun at that point on the compass or still use the max angle for due south?
Yeah, the real world always messes things up. You can still use the max angle as a good starting point, but as your orientation shifts more toward East-West then vertical shading is a better strategy. You can experiment with different overhang depths and shading shapes, or even try to combine an overhang and a vertical shade at the side of the window. Try using some of the solar analysis tools in Revit, see Balkan Architect for a good video. th-cam.com/video/HKzXY9CZJWo/w-d-xo.html
You would design the windows to be the size you want based on code, aesthetics, building program, day lighting needs and more. Not so much a calculation as a coordinated design.
But then, on June 1st the sun is slightly lower in altitude and it's still pretty hot, and now the sun's rays will have penetrated past the glazing, no? You've basically designed a shade that works for 1 day.
You understand the sun, but you miss the entire point of this exercise. You have to design for general worst case scenarios. Unless you use a mechanical shade you can’t have full coverage every single day.
Sorry, but this tutorial is useless because it is not representing deeper understanding of the solar geometry needed to be known for constructing a overhang for windows. At first choosing the pick values (summer and winter solstice) is absolutely wrong because at those positions the sun is only twice a year and are lasting for less then 10 minutes. During the longer period that the windows are exposed to the sun gain (especially in summer) and they need to be protected with overhang, the sun beams have lower altitude and they have azimuth. (exp. May-11 a.m; June 10 a.m and June 11 a.m are more specific) Some of the next mistakes are: - analyzing in section with azimuth 0 degree - where the real north is and etc. Constructing overhang is much more complicated than any technical person including architects means.
This is not useless. It is an intro to basic principles, not a masterclass in shading for Passive House Design. You are also mistaking the terms azimuth and altitude. The azimuth in section is 180 degrees because we're looking at a south facing wall. We use the section to check the altitude. This is a different measurement of the sun location. Thanks for your support. I'm looking forward to all the tutorials and resources I'm sure you'll be creating soon.
@@HyperfineArchitecture Pance Kosturanov is right saying that the sun stays at max angle for a few minutes. All day before and after that peak it is lower, from sunrise and to sunset (in fact the sun will be behind the facade in early morning and late afternoon during summer). That's why the two ends of the overhang should extend beyond the window jambs. In general, it is naive to base your shading device design on the maximum altitude angle. The use of a sun path diagram is the minimum requirement for serious design for shading. Especially if the orientation is not south.
This was not useless at all. There are plenty of videos on how to generate the chart for your sunpath for your location, but it's hard to find a video to apply that knowledge to your location. I personally found this video very useful.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is very helpful, appreciate it. Also the input from Denis R about the adjustment of height.
I sell louvers and sunshades and had always wondered how the values were generated and this info will definitely come in handy.
Ok, so I bought a 2 story house about a year ago that had enormous roof overhangs. (Called it the mushroom house even though the normal climate is hot and humid). Before then I never thought much about the overhangs as in I figured that they were more part of the style than functional. Now, I'm learning about how much those overhangs are keeping the sun (and rain) off the walls of the house. I think its reducing the heat load and reducing paint fading.
Hey Darius, congrats on the new home! The shading and reduced heat load is a great benefit, but keeping the rain away from the wall is one of the best things you can do for a house. Good selection!
You should put your overhang 10 to 14 inches higher to maximum sun gain (full glass) in the winter and recalculate the extension of the shade. I also like to take for account few hours before and after the sun culmination.
Thanks, Denis. Good point about designing for more than just the highest altitude.
Superb video. Very useful.
Thank you, Francisco!
thanks for sharing this，helps me a lot 😊
May I know why The Internal Shading Devices & Solar reflection due to adjacent buildings are the two limitations on using to design building envelopes for energy efficiency?
Thank you
Internal shading does not prevent your HVAC system from dealing with the thermal gain, so exterior shading is better. Adjacent buildings can block access to the sun. These are not the only two limitations on energy efficient design.
Where did I get this window family
You can get this sample file at hyperfinearchitecture.com/resources
I don't understand how you gonna select 75 degree angle 🤔 by screening table or something????
Yes, I used a table to figure out the highest point of the sun, which turned out to be 75 degrees. See the video at about 50 seconds in.
@@HyperfineArchitecture if the wall face was facing a different aspect such as SW, how would you simply use the high angle of the sun at that point on the compass or still use the max angle for due south?
Yeah, the real world always messes things up. You can still use the max angle as a good starting point, but as your orientation shifts more toward East-West then vertical shading is a better strategy. You can experiment with different overhang depths and shading shapes, or even try to combine an overhang and a vertical shade at the side of the window. Try using some of the solar analysis tools in Revit, see Balkan Architect for a good video.
th-cam.com/video/HKzXY9CZJWo/w-d-xo.html
thanks!
How do you calculate the size of windows
You would design the windows to be the size you want based on code, aesthetics, building program, day lighting needs and more. Not so much a calculation as a coordinated design.
But then, on June 1st the sun is slightly lower in altitude and it's still pretty hot, and now the sun's rays will have penetrated past the glazing, no? You've basically designed a shade that works for 1 day.
You understand the sun, but you miss the entire point of this exercise. You have to design for general worst case scenarios. Unless you use a mechanical shade you can’t have full coverage every single day.
@@HyperfineArchitecture I'm guessing that's what makes those old fashioned exterior wood shutters so great?
Lol, yes shutters solved this problem a long time ago!
Sorry, but this tutorial is useless because it is not representing deeper understanding of the solar geometry needed to be known for constructing a overhang for windows.
At first choosing the pick values (summer and winter solstice) is absolutely wrong because at those positions the sun is only twice a year and are lasting for less then 10 minutes. During the longer period that the windows are exposed to the sun gain (especially in summer) and they need to be protected with overhang, the sun beams have lower altitude and they have azimuth. (exp. May-11 a.m; June 10 a.m and June 11 a.m are more specific)
Some of the next mistakes are:
- analyzing in section with azimuth 0 degree
- where the real north is and etc.
Constructing overhang is much more complicated than any technical person including architects means.
This is not useless. It is an intro to basic principles, not a masterclass in shading for Passive House Design. You are also mistaking the terms azimuth and altitude. The azimuth in section is 180 degrees because we're looking at a south facing wall. We use the section to check the altitude. This is a different measurement of the sun location. Thanks for your support. I'm looking forward to all the tutorials and resources I'm sure you'll be creating soon.
@@HyperfineArchitecture Pance Kosturanov
is right saying that the sun stays at max angle for a few minutes. All day before and after that peak it is lower, from sunrise and to sunset (in fact the sun will be behind the facade in early morning and late afternoon during summer).
That's why the two ends of the overhang should extend beyond the window jambs.
In general, it is naive to base your shading device design on the maximum altitude angle. The use of a sun path diagram is the minimum requirement for serious design for shading. Especially if the orientation is not south.
This was not useless at all. There are plenty of videos on how to generate the chart for your sunpath for your location, but it's hard to find a video to apply that knowledge to your location. I personally found this video very useful.