What was your jeep doing? Mine had a bad ignition coil code so i replaced that and nothing changed. Runs fine until it get warm and then starts wanting to cut off when coming to a stop
Ive been trying to fix my 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 for about 6 months now I've replaced the crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, ignition coil, purge valve, fuel filter, idle air valve, and a full tune up. It runs like a champ but just dies sometimes at random times like at an idle, driving straight, turning. If im going over 40 most of the time it will back fire then die. Then normally takes a little while to get running again once I was stuck for 30 minutes. Im not very knowledgeable in mechanics and everything I have done has been from videos and reading forms. This was kinda my last resort but I got hit with a foot of snow so this morning I tried this method as well as shorting the screws, something I saw on another video, and it fired right up! Just took it to the mountains for a 2 hour snow romp. I could not have had the confidence with out this detailed video thank you.
Great explanation. I'm not a mechanic at all. You're right about the longer screw thing. If I apply pressure it works but my 96 Grand Cherokee kills when I hit a bump or something similar. Thank you very much for the explanation. I'm going to do what you said this weekend.
Thank you!!!! I watched ur video last week. I pulled the ECM from my 96 and soldered everything and BAM! I got my keep back! I had a lot of people check it out and no one could fix it! GENUIS! Thanks again so much! U just saved me a ton of money. :)
Dude, ur a freaking champ. U rock. Very knowledgeable and I thank u. Screw all the haters in here, and anyone who says the video sucked.because of no close.ups. if ur smart enough u don't need the close ups. Ur.giving a free lesson as it is awesome man. Thank u and God.bless!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This fixed it. I soldered in those few spots and put it back together. you saved me 300 dollars for a new one! Just a bad solder can ruin everything.
I just did this solder trick myself on my 98 GC with the 4.0 and surprisingly it fired right up. Felt like doing a jig I was so thrilled but I'm sure the neighbors would have called the men with the straight jackets on me.
2:57 On the left of the board in that shot is an IGBT that fires the ignition coil. It supplies a ground to the ignition coil to fire it and that ground is looped through a shunt resistor so the computer can see the current which is analyzed by the adc next to it.
I bet you that's what's wrong with mine mine is getting no fire I ran a jumper wire from pin number 3 to ground on the battery and the truck now runs but it runs awful it's idle's at like 2500 RPM Is bucking an hesitation I just disassembled my computer I'm about to resault or all the pins on the whole board
@@jasonmurdoch9936 The ground is switched on/off to create the spark so adding a jumper might not help... Replace the two big electrolytic caps on it with new low ESR, long life, automotive grade caps with a large temperature range. Any electrolytic caps on the board will be well outside their normal life of about 5 to 10 years especially in the abusive automotive environment under the hood. The caps and maybe reflow the solder on every pin of every connector... But if the problem is the PCM, get a newer one programmed ASAP... The older jtec computers are usually garbage anyway.
@@thefatman2103 I wish I could tell you. I don't have the old PCM anymore to check. I just bought a cheap PCM online form one of the repair shops like flagship one and what I got was a generation newer that works so much better on that engine.
Awesome video! My Jeep is having the same problem and is sitting at the mechanic shop rite now so i think ill just pay him for what he's done for my other issue Fix my PCM and be on my way! Thanks for saving me $400!
Code 12 only means the codes were recently cleared. Oddly, this PCM issue does not normally set a code since it's like pulling the plug on the system before the system can realize there is an issue. A shutter can be a number of problems but here is a quick list Jeep owns must be aware off: Idle Air Control Valve -Dies when stopped Crankshaft Position sensor - Poor idle, won't start, no code Fuel pump - No return line so bubble may form in the line. Shutters or backfire. More so on low fuel.
I have found the terminals on the 3 connectors are also quite a loose fit and provide little pin retention tension. I found replacement terminals (tyco) and re-crimped all new ends to the wires (no fun at all BTW) and the pin tension is MUCH better. Sadly didn't stop the stalling problem. Seemed like an internal solder joint problem but never wanted to open a working ECM to investigate this flexing problem. I will be pulling mine apart this evening and trying your fix. The refurb I had was junk.
Hi all, A big THANKS to you all for posting your videos on TH-cam or your comments on the countless forums to help people out with their problems. I'm posting this to possibly help others out there that may need it, because I found that everyone had slightly different issues around the stalling problem. Mine was different also. I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that had a stalling issue. It's fixed now, but I'll let you briefly know what happened. My Jeep was fine when it was a cold or cool temperature but would always stall when it got to a normal heated operational temperature and stopped at lights or backed up traffic at idle. It wouldn't start for at least another 30 minutes until it had cooled enough. I then realised it was always in D-drive when it stalled, so I tried flicking it to neutral every time I was stopped and it wouldn't stall until I got to my destination and tried to start it straight away. Again i would have to wait for it to cool and then it would start. After stalling I checked the diagnosis codes by turning the ignition to the 2nd position 6 times and waiting for the codes to flash. That told me to replace the coolant temperature sensor, the crankshaft positon sensor, take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and the completed diagnosis code 55. I disconnected the ground battery terminal from battery and started with the cheapest of options which was the coolant temperature sensor. After replacing the coolant temperature sensor and connecting the battery, I then checked the stalling issue by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it stalled and wouldn't start for 30 minutes. I then decided on the crankshaft option so I disconnected the ground battery terminal, changed the crankshaft position sensor and tested it also by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it didn't stall. Problem fixed. I then checked the diagnosis codes again and no codes came up, besides the code for less than 50 key starts since the battery was last disconnected and the completed diagnosis code 55. Regards Kurtis
Tara S My problem is fixed. It hasn't come back. I did buy an authentic expensive crank position sensor $300 Aust dollars. Try a search for how to get diagnostic codes for 96 Jeep. It explains that you have to put your key into the ignition and turn it to 2nd position 6 times and leave it in 2nd position and then you count the flashes of the check engine light. Example, if it flashes twice then pauses and then once it means 21. If it flashes 4 times then pauses and then another 4 times that means 44. I got those codes then I bought a Haynes 1996 jeep manual and it explains all the codes. That really helped me. Let me know how you go.
I have an OBD2 scanner ... I've had zillions of codes already which I have replaced ... crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ignition coil, etc. Each time things seemed to be fixed and then I'd get a stall
Thanks for this video. Pulled my PCM apart and threw some solder on there and BLAM! Jeep is running again. That panel is a real bear to get off though.
thank you so much for the info I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo every things fine when driving But when jeep is in park about a minute goes by it stalls out Starts right back up after though
Great Job, I fixed the problem by using Electronics Cleaner spray (available at parts store) and spraying on all connections on the main cable. Did not have to remove it. remove all cables, spray both the Cable assembly connectors and also the pins inside the housing. Allow a good time to dry or blow out with air. The cleaner is an evaporant, so will dry quickly. plug everything back together and try it out. If this does not work, then maybe a connection internal is oxidized or broken as he indicates in the video. Folks....keep in mind this is just a deeper fix if the external sensors have been proven "OK".
A blanket fix is fine but It's better to determine if an actual issue is present. If you do not have a DMM a test light with a battery will do the same job in this case.
My Jeep Grand Cherokee stops running occasionally. It just quits while I'm driving or at a light. It usually starts again sometimes in 2 minutes sometimes it take 30 minutes. HELP!
I really hope this is my problem. I bought a 96 limited 5.2L for my stepdaughter because she wanted a 4wd SUV. It's been nothing but problems since. I drive it no issues she drives it and it randomly starts backfiring, chugging as she says and has no power. Then I drive it again all good! New alternator 2 year old battery and system tests good but sometimes it says good battery - recharge. I'm assuming the pcm voltage regulator is randomly disconnecting. Ordered new computer before seeing this video but for $200 I'm hoping this fixes it.
I've only tried soldering electrical wires together or soldering the wire ends so that they don't fray when attached using a twist tie Marrette. Do you need a special mini electronics solder gun to fix the contacts? Thanks
hey buddy I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee.knew my truck used to be a county truck..found out from mechanic, he couldn't find my computer anywhere cause it is a police computer..only option he offered me was sending out my pcm to Illinois which would take 10 days..had him put computer back in jeep and took it back..since got back..computer on tight..truck hasn't stalled..and radio stays on..even got sent belt guy back lol also saw somewhere that computer even affects gas gauge..went to radio shack and bought everything I need to fix..my question is if I fix it, will it have to be reprogrammed? right now have a running truck..also can work be done on circuit board without having to reprogram it?
i found this very helpful, thank you gene... anyway i open my pcm and why i found out its different than yours its more like a sandwich type 1 whole board squeeze into a plate , damn i guess i will find another way
Got a 2012 dodge advenger I put a voltage regulator on car to by pass the charging system to computer.Still have problems and cant get new pcm for it.The part is obsolete. What do I need to do.
Thanks, I am BSEE Seattle Pacific University. Just wanted to ask about pin replacement in the connector, not on the ECM. I'm just a bit afraid of toasting the ECM. A Mech friend said that disconnecting the battery caused a spike and toasted the first ECM. Thanks
I've got a 96 jgc and replaced everything like everyone else has here on TH-cam. I want to try what you're doing but you didn't show or say what your multimeter setting was. Can you recap please.
Really important thing to remember, if you pull the computer out of your 96 Jeep, expect your issues to "go away" for the next 6 or 7 times you drive it... and then come back. After disconnecting the PCM for a while, it has to 're-learn' from all of the sensors, and once it's done doing that, you're back to square one. I had random stalling issues and in my particular case, the "two-screw" fix worked great, for a week. Eventually I replaced the crank position sensor and that "fixed" the problem for about a month. Love my Jeep, don't get me wrong... but... what a PITA!!!!
My 98 had major stalling problems and I found 2 clips broke on 2 of the PCM connectors but all the sensors where bad too. I changed 9 sensors and now it runs like new.
I have a 2007 JGCL . . . . same problem. I had the problem back in September/October. the idiot engine light came on. I took it to the local Goodyear service shop. Codes came back with random misfire. Changed plugs. a week later - same issue. returned to Goodyear to find multiple misfire on 2, 4 & 6. referred to dealership. took to dealership and they could not duplicate it since the code was not active. after 2 days they gave it back without charging the service fee (after I let them know how upset I was). I noticed through the winter here in Georgia that as soon as we would have a slightly warmer day it would begin to sputter but no engine light. Now here we are with temps in the 60's and 70's and the engine light came back on today. It hasn't stalled on me yet this time but it's coming. I'm babying the gas to ease the acceleration but if I drive normal I know I will stall it. Here are a couple blogs I found to get some answers that apparently the dealership doesn't know about without replacing the whole PCM at $800+. www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/jeep-grand-cherokee-stalling-fixed-248386/ www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/2000-jeep-grand-cherokee-stalls-when-warm-324812/ My question is . . . . did this fix it completely? Mine is a 2007 . . . any reports of similar issues up through this year? Is there a class action lawsuit on this I need to know about? I'm a novice at this kind of stuff. More mechanically inclined than electric/electronic. Any advice before I dig into this?
bikedawg69 Can you show us how to open one of the remanned computers? They are a different style. It appears as though there is one piece of aluminum that wraps all the way around the pcm (top to bottom cover) Look at pics when you search for ecu model # 9-1172? I have no idea how to open this thing. Thanks!
I have a 1997 Jeep ZJ 5.2 with a different PCM marked 417AB. I have no idea how to open this unit as it looks different than the one in the video.. Need help!
Looking for info about the issue on my jeep I found your vid. I did the same welding on all the pins my jeep is been working with out dying for about 2 weeks now, now I have to replace the catalytic
Crank Position Sensor more likely candidate, so multimeter test first and strength of magnet isn't necessarily going to be the issue. , My defective CKP actually had a stronger magnet than the new one that worked.
Also my battery gauge is almost up to 14V..but check engine light still comes on..know for a fact it's computer cause would have to shake it to get truck started
I have a 98 grand Cherokee that I think is having pcm issues. I had a mechanic look at it and he said it was the plug end that goes connected to the pcm. Changed the plug but the issue is still there. He is indicating its the whole harness but when I move harness going down to the transmission it does not shut off but when I move the harness next to the plug she shuts off. I am mechanically challenged and don't trust this mechanic already( new in town). How hard is it to take out the Pom and just have it replaced?
I would like to try this fix, but I'm not exactly clear what I'm supposed to be re-soldering. Can you possibly go into more details, or maybe do another video of you actually doing the re-soldering, maybe with a close up video shot? Or maybe just show me some pictures of what I'm supposed to be re-soldering. Also, I haven't read about putting longer screws in, but rather shorter screws as the longer, original screws are shorting out the board. Is there any merit to this?
I have a question. I'm looking at buying a '96 grand cherokee. the guy said that he was told it was the PCM so he replaced it and it ran fine for a day. the next day, nothing. My question is, could the problem be a short in the wiring of the vehicle?
I have a 1996 Grand Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4.0 V6 and the PCM looks completely different than this one, can someone explain to me how I would test it? And fix it if possible.
place a jumper wire on blue wire second row pin #3 to ground, (fuel pump ground) if you don't want to open up the computer. The computer grounds the FP to FP RELAY.
93 jeep grand Cherokee limited 5.2l. My PCM don't look like that. So how do I fix it? And what issues does the pcm braking in this manner cause? No one ever says
I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with intermittent power getting to fuel injectors 3 and 5. I took it to a shop and they said they pin tested the PCM and it was bad. That's all the information I got from them. Is that a fixable problem with soldering?
I have 97 jeep. Have put 2 new alternators on and I am still getting low volts. Someone told me could be little black box on back of alternator. Then was told pcm. any ideas what or how to fix. THANKS
Thanks for the video. I have a 2000 Jeep GC 4.7L with an intermittent problem. The engine suddenly stops running. It seems heat related. The gauges stop working, cranks fine but no restart until it cools down, then the gauges start working and it fires right up. Does that sound like a PCM issue? I am going to open mine up for a look see.
Could you reprogram a 1995 dodge diesel PCM ? Looking for a way to use Original PCM to control lock up on a 47rh transmission. Looking for a reprogram that computer on requires TPS,VSS ,Trans Temp sensor
Your question/comment is kind of two-part and not-so-solid itself, i'll do my best to answer it. A "not so solid" ecu would be one like a Yugo EFI ECU: No sealant, looks like the inside of an AM radio, very low quality electronic components used. A "pretty solid" ECU would be ones made by chrysler, mercedes-benz' newer stuff, ABS computers in some older Volvos, TCMs in some GM vehicles, etc. The most "solid" ones I seem to be those made by BMW, Honda, Nissan, and Toyota. All electronics are "prone to failure". Remember an ECU/PCM/TCM/BCM/whatever you want to call it is a COMPUTER, complete with microchips and software. The design/quality of the components used on some make them MORE prone, or "not so solid". Does that make sense? If your looking for "solid" and not "prone to failure" I'd either buy a kia with a 10 year warranty so your covered, buy an old car with no electronics period, or start using those getaway sticks and walk everywhere. ALL computers and mechanical systems are prone to failure.
Hi I just got a 1996 Grand cherokee, it had new cap rotor crank sensor plugs and wires installed the day before I brought it home. First time I went to shift from 2wd to 4wd and she stalled. I replaced fuel filter has good fuel pump, no spark from the coil and it is draining battery as well. I came across your video and was wondering would a bad PCM/ or as you have shown the actual connection cause a battery to drain along with not starting? (tries but just will not crank over) Andrea
Caps are also a major reason failure for ECU's. The automotive industry uses a high grade, high temperature type which has a lower probability of failure but anyone in the repair business know all caps can fail. I have replace caps an ECU (not jeep) before but obtaining the proper replacement type was a challenge. Also, if one goes, they all should go.
Sure. Anything can be the problem but not probable. Have you replaced the CPS with an aftermarket? Is your Jeep randomly shutting down or during specific situations? Does it take time to start back up or is it within the first couple of times? Can you shake the wiring and cause a shuttering?Have you checked fuel pressure? One major issue I have seen is the connection of a new sensor or actuator will have a weak connection since the old part had slightly larger pins. The CPS is sensitive to this.
i own a 1998 grand cherokee laredo, sometimes it turns off, the fuel clock goes crazy up and down. i have replaced the fuel pump, injectors, a so many spares, do you think the computer is failing ? it does not show any error message when it is connected to a tester.
hey i junt want to ask, i have a 96 jeep grand cherokee and i have a same problem, i need your help how to fix my ECU, i been try to fix but still not work's please help me
ck the wire by the brake cylinder housing...its better to ck it at nite to see a spark by pushing up n down on the jeep...it may be very small but that is your propblem...mine done it when i went around curves or hit potholes
Are you familiar with GM BCMs from 2000 to 2005 ? You are familiar with the dreaded no start conditions with many GM vehicles with the passlock and BCM problems ?
I thank you for the video. I am going to give it a try right now. However if you don't mind I would like to offer a little criticism. And this is coming from a grown man with an ADD mind so hands on and visual is where our focus strengths are. If you had your cam facing down on the work I could get it on the 1st watch but it took me 7 watches maybe 8 because I lost concentration and went straight into this comment. Hahaha. Never the less thanks for the tip.
Thank you... maybe I can fix the next one myself instead of $180 to a rebuild shop... the PCM on my 97 zj seems to fail reliably every three or four years.
Awesome, man. I replaced the crank and cam sensor. $120. Then the alternator went out. $110. I have a 96 GCL. Ready to shoot it. It cut out on me last night 3 miles from home. Threw a P0351 for the coil. Pulled it back home and it cranked up. WTF? Saw your vid. Soldered all the connections. My turn signals work now. So does my horn-previously disconnected for alarm related issues? Running great now. Will update if change.
nice----------- I just finished a rebuild and drop in of a 4.0 bored 30 over cam and crank ...ect to much to list drove it for 600 miles runs smooth and strong just redid intake gasket had a leak and now all sealed up no noise but it runs but sputtery and takes a few cranks to get'er fired.. Detroit home of jeeps and creeps its a safe place to live---
Hey man great video thanks for sharing, just have a quick question onto witch setting you put the multimeter to test the pins. Really appreciate what you did. Fixed a lot of things and it was this the whole time.
Great video, bd. I am a newbie at electronic repair, fixing several motherboards and video cards. Have you seen any PCM's with the dreaded bad capacitors? I've replaced some bad caps in mobos and high end video cards. Also I wonder if putting the broken board in the oven and reflowing the solder would work? I recently resurrected a bad GPU card, following instructions found on some YT videos. I wonder if the reflowing technique could become a fix. Any thoughts appreciated. -RF
I have a 96 gc and if driven more than a few miles it will stall at a red light - stop sign or a pause in traffic then I have to wait about 90 minutes before it will restart..i have changed the thermostat..alternator,,,,,now what...please help
Obviously it can be several issues. For me the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS) was the culprit. Intermittent stalling when at a red light but would start up again most of the time. Within a few years I've had to replace it twice and Jeep is notorious for it. On the 96 in particular the plug/harness for CPS is on the passenger engine compartment below the distributor and PCM, however sensor itself goes into the top of the auto trans bell housing driver side.
Katrina, I have a 96 as well. At least it's not leaving you stranded. Autozone will usually check for any tripped OBDII codes free of charge. If it is the CPS(crankshaftPositionSensor) the aftermarket part cost around 60.The 1st time the shop replaced it for me and went bad after 2 years. I did the 2nd myself in 2012 using the autozone aftermarket part and haven't had starting nor stalling issue since. Unfortunately when the problem is intermittent it can be moe difficult to isolate. Please let me know how you make out with it.
Do you think a bad PCM could cause a battery to over charge or over heat? I replaced my fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, oil pressure sensor, battery terminals, and Ive gone through 3 batteries within a month... All my batteries start bubbling and hissing.. Whats your thoughts? I also think I could have a short some where..
12 years later this has saved me. THANK YOU !
He’d be happy to know that. He’s a very modest, but brilliant guy.
What was your jeep doing? Mine had a bad ignition coil code so i replaced that and nothing changed. Runs fine until it get warm and then starts wanting to cut off when coming to a stop
Ive been trying to fix my 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 for about 6 months now I've replaced the crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, ignition coil, purge valve, fuel filter, idle air valve, and a full tune up. It runs like a champ but just dies sometimes at random times like at an idle, driving straight, turning. If im going over 40 most of the time it will back fire then die. Then normally takes a little while to get running again once I was stuck for 30 minutes. Im not very knowledgeable in mechanics and everything I have done has been from videos and reading forms. This was kinda my last resort but I got hit with a foot of snow so this morning I tried this method as well as shorting the screws, something I saw on another video, and it fired right up! Just took it to the mountains for a 2 hour snow romp.
I could not have had the confidence with out this detailed video thank you.
Finally, somebody has an answer to this very common problem! You are a hero to Jeep owners.
1997 Jeep GC Limited
Great explanation. I'm not a mechanic at all. You're right about the longer screw thing. If I apply pressure it works but my 96 Grand Cherokee kills when I hit a bump or something similar. Thank you very much for the explanation. I'm going to do what you said this weekend.
Thank you!!!! I watched ur video last week. I pulled the ECM from my 96 and soldered everything and BAM! I got my keep back!
I had a lot of people check it out and no one could fix it! GENUIS! Thanks again so much! U just saved me a ton of money. :)
Dude, ur a freaking champ. U rock. Very knowledgeable and I thank u. Screw all the haters in here, and anyone who says the video sucked.because of no close.ups. if ur smart enough u don't need the close ups. Ur.giving a free lesson as it is awesome man. Thank u and God.bless!
This worked on my 96 now runs like a top 4wd. Drove 835 miles from Oklahoma to Indiana. Averaged 18.5 mpg @ an average speed between 75 to 80 mph.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This fixed it. I soldered in those few spots and put it back together. you saved me 300 dollars for a new one! Just a bad solder can ruin everything.
I just did this solder trick myself on my 98 GC with the 4.0 and surprisingly it fired right up. Felt like doing a jig I was so thrilled but I'm sure the neighbors would have called the men with the straight jackets on me.
Was it easy to do I am very mechanically inclined but don't wanna mess this up
2:57 On the left of the board in that shot is an IGBT that fires the ignition coil. It supplies a ground to the ignition coil to fire it and that ground is looped through a shunt resistor so the computer can see the current which is analyzed by the adc next to it.
I bet you that's what's wrong with mine mine is getting no fire I ran a jumper wire from pin number 3 to ground on the battery and the truck now runs but it runs awful it's idle's at like 2500 RPM Is bucking an hesitation I just disassembled my computer I'm about to resault or all the pins on the whole board
@@jasonmurdoch9936 The ground is switched on/off to create the spark so adding a jumper might not help... Replace the two big electrolytic caps on it with new low ESR, long life, automotive grade caps with a large temperature range. Any electrolytic caps on the board will be well outside their normal life of about 5 to 10 years especially in the abusive automotive environment under the hood. The caps and maybe reflow the solder on every pin of every connector... But if the problem is the PCM, get a newer one programmed ASAP... The older jtec computers are usually garbage anyway.
Is the first connector pin on the left a ground?
@@thefatman2103 I wish I could tell you. I don't have the old PCM anymore to check. I just bought a cheap PCM online form one of the repair shops like flagship one and what I got was a generation newer that works so much better on that engine.
Thanks for the video! Was about to buy a new one but figured I'd try doing your thing. Worked great and no more issues. You the man!
I will be trying this tomorrow as our Jeep has been acting up in & out of Mechanics for 9 months now. Thank you for the insight!
This is exactly what i I needed. I resoldered my PCM and stalling has stopped. Thank you very much!
Thank you on your tip on my 96 Grand Cherokee . Did exactly what you said on the PCM problem fixed!! Again thanks a lot
Thank you for helping fix my pcm, working fine now.
Awesome video! My Jeep is having the same problem and is sitting at the mechanic shop rite now so i think ill just pay him for what he's done for my other issue Fix my PCM and be on my way! Thanks for saving me $400!
Code 12 only means the codes were recently cleared. Oddly, this PCM issue does not normally set a code since it's like pulling the plug on the system before the system can realize there is an issue.
A shutter can be a number of problems but here is a quick list Jeep owns must be aware off:
Idle Air Control Valve -Dies when stopped
Crankshaft Position sensor - Poor idle, won't start, no code
Fuel pump - No return line so bubble may form in the line. Shutters or backfire. More so on low fuel.
I have found the terminals on the 3 connectors are also quite a loose fit and provide little pin retention tension. I found replacement terminals (tyco) and re-crimped all new ends to the wires (no fun at all BTW) and the pin tension is MUCH better. Sadly didn't stop the stalling problem. Seemed like an internal solder joint problem but never wanted to open a working ECM to investigate this flexing problem. I will be pulling mine apart this evening and trying your fix. The refurb I had was junk.
Thanks man. Haave a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee I tried this and it seemed to work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me $$
Hi all,
A big THANKS to you all for posting your videos on TH-cam or your comments on the countless forums to help people out with their problems. I'm posting this to possibly help others out there that may need it, because I found that everyone had slightly different issues around the stalling problem. Mine was different also.
I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that had a stalling issue. It's fixed now, but I'll let you briefly know what happened. My Jeep was fine when it was a cold or cool temperature but would always stall when it got to a normal heated operational temperature and stopped at lights or backed up traffic at idle. It wouldn't start for at least another 30 minutes until it had cooled enough. I then realised it was always in D-drive when it stalled, so I tried flicking it to neutral every time I was stopped and it wouldn't stall until I got to my destination and tried to start it straight away. Again i would have to wait for it to cool and then it would start. After stalling I checked the diagnosis codes by turning the ignition to the 2nd position 6 times and waiting for the codes to flash. That told me to replace the coolant temperature sensor, the crankshaft positon sensor, take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and the completed diagnosis code 55.
I disconnected the ground battery terminal from battery and started with the cheapest of options which was the coolant temperature sensor. After replacing the coolant temperature sensor and connecting the battery, I then checked the stalling issue by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it stalled and wouldn't start for 30 minutes. I then decided on the crankshaft option so I disconnected the ground battery terminal, changed the crankshaft position sensor and tested it also by driving around for an hour and leaving it in drive and it didn't stall.
Problem fixed. I then checked the diagnosis codes again and no codes came up, besides the code for less than 50 key starts since the battery was last disconnected and the completed diagnosis code 55.
Regards
Kurtis
I replaced the crank position sensor (twice!) and I still have the problem. Just want to ask if your problem ever came back?
Tara S
My problem is fixed. It hasn't come back. I did buy an authentic expensive crank position sensor $300 Aust dollars.
Try a search for how to get diagnostic codes for 96 Jeep. It explains that you have to put your key into the ignition and turn it to 2nd position 6 times and leave it in 2nd position and then you count the flashes of the check engine light. Example, if it flashes twice then pauses and then once it means 21. If it flashes 4 times then pauses and then another 4 times that means 44. I got those codes then I bought a Haynes 1996 jeep manual and it explains all the codes. That really helped me.
Let me know how you go.
I have an OBD2 scanner ... I've had zillions of codes already which I have replaced ... crank position sensor, cam position sensor, ignition coil, etc. Each time things seemed to be fixed and then I'd get a stall
Tara S well done. You tube vids really do help with the courage aspect hey? Good luck with it all.
Thanks for this video. Pulled my PCM apart and threw some solder on there and BLAM! Jeep is running again. That panel is a real bear to get off though.
Thank you very much. This is a very helpful information about the PCM. Great video!
thank you so much for the info
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
every things fine when driving
But when jeep is in park about a minute goes by it stalls out
Starts right back up after though
Thank you very much for making this video. The best video I've seen regarding this problem.
Good work dud. Thanks a bunch for the insights , knowledge is wisdom.....thanks dud
When I went to take out my PCM, I notice the mounting bolts were EXTREMELY loose. I just tighten them up and my problem went away.
the mounting bolts go to plastic clips
Great Job, I fixed the problem by using Electronics Cleaner spray (available at parts store) and spraying on all connections on the main cable. Did not have to remove it. remove all cables, spray both the Cable assembly connectors and also the pins inside the housing. Allow a good time to dry or blow out with air. The cleaner is an evaporant, so will dry quickly. plug everything back together and try it out. If this does not work, then maybe a connection internal is oxidized or broken as he indicates in the video. Folks....keep in mind this is just a deeper fix if the external sensors have been proven "OK".
Thank you G it all sounds plausible sure it will fix my 2001 Cherokee's problem...Pine SA.
Great Video! I will try this one and see if it fix my PCM. I am not getting signal between IAC and Computer. Problem P0505. Horrible stalling!
A blanket fix is fine but It's better to determine if an actual issue is present. If you do not have a DMM a test light with a battery will do the same job in this case.
My Jeep Grand Cherokee stops running occasionally. It just quits while I'm driving or at a light. It usually starts again sometimes in 2 minutes sometimes it take 30 minutes. HELP!
I really hope this is my problem. I bought a 96 limited 5.2L for my stepdaughter because she wanted a 4wd SUV. It's been nothing but problems since. I drive it no issues she drives it and it randomly starts backfiring, chugging as she says and has no power. Then I drive it again all good! New alternator 2 year old battery and system tests good but sometimes it says good battery - recharge. I'm assuming the pcm voltage regulator is randomly disconnecting. Ordered new computer before seeing this video but for $200 I'm hoping this fixes it.
Is the first connextor on the header for the voltage regulator side a ground?
Thanks for the video and info. I think I'm going to pick up a spare at the yard before removing and cracking it open.
Genius.
I've only tried soldering electrical wires together or soldering the wire ends so that they don't fray when attached using a twist tie Marrette. Do you need a special mini electronics solder gun to fix the contacts? Thanks
hey buddy I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee.knew my truck used to be a county truck..found out from mechanic, he couldn't find my computer anywhere cause it is a police computer..only option he offered me was sending out my pcm to Illinois which would take 10 days..had him put computer back in jeep and took it back..since got back..computer on tight..truck hasn't stalled..and radio stays on..even got sent belt guy back lol also saw somewhere that computer even affects gas gauge..went to radio shack and bought everything I need to fix..my question is if I fix it, will it have to be reprogrammed? right now have a running truck..also can work be done on circuit board without having to reprogram it?
i found this very helpful, thank you gene... anyway i open my pcm and why i found out its different than yours its more like a sandwich type 1 whole board squeeze into a plate , damn i guess i will find another way
Excellent video -- Thanks!
Got a 2012 dodge advenger I put a voltage regulator on car to by pass the charging system to computer.Still have problems and cant get new pcm for it.The part is obsolete. What do I need to do.
Thanks, I am BSEE Seattle Pacific University. Just wanted to ask about pin replacement in the connector, not on the ECM. I'm just a bit afraid of toasting the ECM. A Mech friend said that disconnecting the battery caused a spike and toasted the first ECM. Thanks
I've got a 96 jgc and replaced everything like everyone else has here on TH-cam. I want to try what you're doing but you didn't show or say what your multimeter setting was. Can you recap please.
Really important thing to remember, if you pull the computer out of your 96 Jeep, expect your issues to "go away" for the next 6 or 7 times you drive it... and then come back.
After disconnecting the PCM for a while, it has to 're-learn' from all of the sensors, and once it's done doing that, you're back to square one.
I had random stalling issues and in my particular case, the "two-screw" fix worked great, for a week. Eventually I replaced the crank position sensor and that "fixed" the problem for about a month.
Love my Jeep, don't get me wrong... but... what a PITA!!!!
Lucky bastard! ;]=
Good afternoon, I'm repairman UCE here in Brazil, I have a dodge dakota 2.5 petrol problems in UCE, you have internal diagram of this UCE.
My 98 had major stalling problems and I found 2 clips broke on 2 of the PCM connectors but all the sensors where bad too. I changed 9 sensors and now it runs like new.
I have a 2007 JGCL . . . . same problem. I had the problem back in September/October. the idiot engine light came on. I took it to the local Goodyear service shop. Codes came back with random misfire. Changed plugs. a week later - same issue. returned to Goodyear to find multiple misfire on 2, 4 & 6. referred to dealership. took to dealership and they could not duplicate it since the code was not active. after 2 days they gave it back without charging the service fee (after I let them know how upset I was). I noticed through the winter here in Georgia that as soon as we would have a slightly warmer day it would begin to sputter but no engine light. Now here we are with temps in the 60's and 70's and the engine light came back on today. It hasn't stalled on me yet this time but it's coming. I'm babying the gas to ease the acceleration but if I drive normal I know I will stall it. Here are a couple blogs I found to get some answers that apparently the dealership doesn't know about without replacing the whole PCM at $800+.
www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/jeep-grand-cherokee-stalling-fixed-248386/
www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/2000-jeep-grand-cherokee-stalls-when-warm-324812/
My question is . . . . did this fix it completely? Mine is a 2007 . . . any reports of similar issues up through this year? Is there a class action lawsuit on this I need to know about? I'm a novice at this kind of stuff. More mechanically inclined than electric/electronic. Any advice before I dig into this?
bikedawg69 Can you show us how to open one of the remanned computers? They are a different style. It appears as though there is one piece of aluminum that wraps all the way around the pcm (top to bottom cover) Look at pics when you search for ecu model # 9-1172? I have no idea how to open this thing. Thanks!
I have a 1997 Jeep ZJ 5.2 with a different PCM marked 417AB. I have no idea how to open this unit as it looks different than the one in the video.. Need help!
Hey what issues were you having when you first did this?
Bikedawg69 thank you for this video. Very easy to understand and so useful when I needed help bad. I appreciate ya doing this
Looking for info about the issue on my jeep I found your vid. I did the same welding on all the pins my jeep is been working with out dying for about 2 weeks now, now I have to replace the catalytic
Still no problems 8 months later?
What if the connector pad looks like it's peeling up? Ima splash some sodder around and hope for the best.
Crank Position Sensor more likely candidate, so multimeter test first and strength of magnet isn't necessarily going to be the issue. , My defective CKP actually had a stronger magnet than the new one that worked.
my pcm in 1999 GC is a rap around aluminum
cover so very difficult to disassemble
+Fred Waskosky same problem here on my 1998 Cherokee
Also my battery gauge is almost up to 14V..but check engine light still comes on..know for a fact it's computer cause would have to shake it to get truck started
Also I should add that removing vac line from PCV valve corrects all of these issues and introduces a 1500rpm idle.
My AirCon not sending 5v to the relay to pull clutch in. Could this be issue? As think wires go into this control box.
Wanting to know if there is a certain fuse I need to change that controls the lighter,and if so,where is it at?
I have a 98 grand Cherokee that I think is having pcm issues. I had a mechanic look at it and he said it was the plug end that goes connected to the pcm. Changed the plug but the issue is still there. He is indicating its the whole harness but when I move harness going down to the transmission it does not shut off but when I move the harness next to the plug she shuts off. I am mechanically challenged and don't trust this mechanic already( new in town). How hard is it to take out the Pom and just have it replaced?
I would like to try this fix, but I'm not exactly clear what I'm supposed to be re-soldering. Can you possibly go into more details, or maybe do another video of you actually doing the re-soldering, maybe with a close up video shot? Or maybe just show me some pictures of what I'm supposed to be re-soldering. Also, I haven't read about putting longer screws in, but rather shorter screws as the longer, original screws are shorting out the board. Is there any merit to this?
I have a question. I'm looking at buying a '96 grand cherokee. the guy said that he was told it was the PCM so he replaced it and it ran fine for a day. the next day, nothing. My question is, could the problem be a short in the wiring of the vehicle?
I have a 1996 Grand Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4.0 V6 and the PCM looks completely different than this one, can someone explain to me how I would test it? And fix it if possible.
place a jumper wire on blue wire second row pin #3 to ground, (fuel pump ground) if you don't want to open up the computer. The computer grounds the FP to FP RELAY.
93 jeep grand Cherokee limited 5.2l. My PCM don't look like that. So how do I fix it? And what issues does the pcm braking in this manner cause? No one ever says
I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with intermittent power getting to fuel injectors 3 and 5. I took it to a shop and they said they pin tested the PCM and it was bad. That's all the information I got from them. Is that a fixable problem with soldering?
WAIT A SEC,. HERE WHAT U MEAN BY A TEMPER RESISTANT SCREW.....? CAN U GET THEM OUT W/ A REGULAR SCREW DRIVER ( POWER OR NON POWER ... )....?
I have 97 jeep. Have put 2 new alternators on and I am still getting low volts. Someone told me could be little black box on back of alternator. Then was told pcm. any ideas what or how to fix. THANKS
Thanks for the video.
I have a 2000 Jeep GC 4.7L with an intermittent problem. The engine suddenly stops running. It seems heat related. The gauges stop working, cranks fine but no restart until it cools down, then the gauges start working and it fires right up. Does that sound like a PCM issue? I am going to open mine up for a look see.
I know this video is old but I really need a question answered. My PCM does not have that board in the back cover. Is an
Could you reprogram a 1995 dodge diesel PCM ? Looking for a way to use Original PCM to control lock up on a 47rh transmission. Looking for a reprogram that computer on requires TPS,VSS ,Trans Temp sensor
What's a "pretty solid PCM" vs a not-so-solid PCM? If it's prone to failure, it's not solid!
Your question/comment is kind of two-part and not-so-solid itself, i'll do my best to answer it. A "not so solid" ecu would be one like a Yugo EFI ECU: No sealant, looks like the inside of an AM radio, very low quality electronic components used. A "pretty solid" ECU would be ones made by chrysler, mercedes-benz' newer stuff, ABS computers in some older Volvos, TCMs in some GM vehicles, etc. The most "solid" ones I seem to be those made by BMW, Honda, Nissan, and Toyota. All electronics are "prone to failure". Remember an ECU/PCM/TCM/BCM/whatever you want to call it is a COMPUTER, complete with microchips and software. The design/quality of the components used on some make them MORE prone, or "not so solid". Does that make sense? If your looking for "solid" and not "prone to failure" I'd either buy a kia with a 10 year warranty so your covered, buy an old car with no electronics period, or start using those getaway sticks and walk everywhere. ALL computers and mechanical systems are prone to failure.
TYVM
My 96 XJ keeps randomly dying. Gonna have to try this! TY.
Hi
I just got a 1996 Grand cherokee, it had new cap rotor crank sensor plugs and wires installed the day before I brought it home. First time I went to shift from 2wd to 4wd and she stalled. I replaced fuel filter has good fuel pump, no spark from the coil and it is draining battery as well. I came across your video and was wondering would a bad PCM/ or as you have shown the actual connection cause a battery to drain along with not starting? (tries but just will not crank over)
Andrea
Caps are also a major reason failure for ECU's. The automotive industry uses a high grade, high temperature type which has a lower probability of failure but anyone in the repair business know all caps can fail. I have replace caps an ECU (not jeep) before but obtaining the proper replacement type was a challenge. Also, if one goes, they all should go.
Sure. Anything can be the problem but not probable. Have you replaced the CPS with an aftermarket? Is your Jeep randomly shutting down or during specific situations? Does it take time to start back up or is it within the first couple of times? Can you shake the wiring and cause a shuttering?Have you checked fuel pressure? One major issue I have seen is the connection of a new sensor or actuator will have a weak connection since the old part had slightly larger pins. The CPS is sensitive to this.
i own a 1998 grand cherokee laredo, sometimes it turns off, the fuel clock goes crazy up and down. i have replaced the fuel pump, injectors, a so many spares, do you think the computer is failing ? it does not show any error message when it is connected to a tester.
HEY JEEPERS,, WOULD THIS BE THE SAME FOR A WRANGLER 4 CYL ? THANKS!!
hey i junt want to ask, i have a 96 jeep grand cherokee and i have a same problem, i need your help how to fix my ECU, i been try to fix but still not work's please help me
ck the wire by the brake cylinder housing...its better to ck it at nite to see a spark by pushing up n down on the jeep...it may be very small but that is your propblem...mine done it when i went around curves or hit potholes
Is there any way you can send me pictures of you putting that pin in , sorry I couldn't see to good . And what you soldier please ! Thank you !
Do you need to replace the gel coating on the motherboard? If so, what is it and where do you purchase it. Thanks
Dude, How did you soldering? its dificult for the dissipator.
Thanks I did this today started up its running ok. 98 jeep grand cherokee loredo
Are you familiar with GM BCMs from 2000 to 2005 ?
You are familiar with the dreaded no start conditions with many GM vehicles with the passlock and BCM problems ?
I thank you for the video. I am going to give it a try right now. However if you don't mind I would like to offer a little criticism. And this is coming from a grown man with an ADD mind so hands on and visual is where our focus strengths are. If you had your cam facing down on the work I could get it on the 1st watch but it took me 7 watches maybe 8 because I lost concentration and went straight into this comment. Hahaha. Never the less thanks for the tip.
The PCM on mine 1996 Grand Cherokee 5.2 has a different model PCM, this wont work for all the them
I need help I got a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee it is in theft mode I cant do nothing with it I try the door key thing didn't work
Thank you... maybe I can fix the next one myself instead of $180 to a rebuild shop... the PCM on my 97 zj seems to fail reliably every three or four years.
Awesome, man. I replaced the crank and cam sensor. $120. Then the alternator went out. $110. I have a 96 GCL. Ready to shoot it. It cut out on me last night 3 miles from home. Threw a P0351 for the coil. Pulled it back home and it cranked up. WTF? Saw your vid. Soldered all the connections. My turn signals work now. So does my horn-previously disconnected for alarm related issues? Running great now. Will update if change.
Forgot - the rear wiper came back to life. Great fix, dude.
nice----------- I just finished a rebuild and drop in of a 4.0 bored 30 over cam and crank ...ect to much to list drove it for 600 miles runs smooth and strong just redid intake gasket had a leak and now all sealed up no noise but it runs but sputtery and takes a few cranks to get'er fired.. Detroit home of jeeps and creeps its a safe place to live---
Jason, still good after 10 months?
Excellent video, very helpful. What's a PCM by the way?
Man thank you very much for sharing this video
I just posted but I have a 1998 will that make it different ?
Great video. What codes did your jeep give while this was an issue for you?
Hey man great video thanks for sharing, just have a quick question onto witch setting you put the multimeter to test the pins. Really appreciate what you did. Fixed a lot of things and it was this the whole time.
Great video, bd. I am a newbie at electronic repair, fixing several motherboards and video cards. Have you seen any PCM's with the dreaded bad capacitors? I've replaced some bad caps in mobos and high end video cards.
Also I wonder if putting the broken board in the oven and reflowing the solder would work? I recently resurrected a bad GPU card, following instructions found on some YT videos. I wonder if the reflowing technique could become a fix.
Any thoughts appreciated.
-RF
Is it the same on a 2006 model?
I have a 96 gc and if driven more than a few miles it will stall at a red light - stop sign or a pause in traffic then I have to wait about 90 minutes before it will restart..i have changed the thermostat..alternator,,,,,now what...please help
Katrina Crawford It is so good to read that I am not the only one. This is driving me crazy.
Obviously it can be several issues. For me the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS) was the culprit. Intermittent stalling when at a red light but would start up again most of the time. Within a few years I've had to replace it twice and Jeep is notorious for it. On the 96 in particular the plug/harness for CPS is on the passenger engine compartment below the distributor and PCM, however sensor itself goes into the top of the auto trans bell housing driver side.
Awesome thanks so much
Katrina, I have a 96 as well. At least it's not leaving you stranded. Autozone will usually check for any tripped OBDII codes free of charge. If it is the CPS(crankshaftPositionSensor) the aftermarket part cost around 60.The 1st time the shop replaced it for me and went bad after 2 years. I did the 2nd myself in 2012 using the autozone aftermarket part and haven't had starting nor stalling issue since. Unfortunately when the problem is intermittent it can be moe difficult to isolate. Please let me know how you make out with it.
IAC IDLE AIR CONTROLLER KNOWN AS A IAC VALVE. REPLACE IT
Do you think a bad PCM could cause a battery to over charge or over heat? I replaced my fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, oil pressure sensor, battery terminals, and Ive gone through 3 batteries within a month... All my batteries start bubbling and hissing.. Whats your thoughts? I also think I could have a short some where..
Alternator diodes or bad on the inside of the alternator
pardon the ignorance but whats sauder lol and how do we do that, i have a jeep grand cherooke 97 and it sounds like the same problem
So how do you take off the gel?
Great Information. Thanks