I own a 99 4Runner limited with e-locker. 128k on the odometer. Very little body rust but the undercarriage was looking like the titanic. I removed everything but the engine and transmission and sandblasted and rebuilt the entire undercarriage, frame, fuel tank, rear axle and many other things. Chassis saver on everything with all new bushings pinion bearings, wheel bearings, seals and much more. Ton of work, spent all my spare time the past 4 months under it. To me well worth it. It’s almost new again
If you have the time and ability to do the research, there are plenty of parts that are compatible not only between car models but also different Manufacturers . The price differences for the same part but under different car labels is criminal.
Peter ….. nice repair video and you have a methodical and non-rushed approach to your vehicle repairs. It’s nice and refreshing to watch a skilled technician take care of a customer’s vehicle. Thank you again!
I have TRD polyurethane sway bar bushings. The problem is polyurethane squeaks when driving over things like speed bumps. The grease wears off. One trick I learned was to wrap the sway bar with plumber's tape (just the area of the bar the bushing goes on). That works for about a year before the squeaks return.
I just installed these energy bushings yesterday on the front of my 01 sr5. The old inner bushings were so worn the had holes in them! Now I have poly bushings in all the rear control arms, shocks, swayer and links as well as the front sway bar and links. I plan on doing poly bushings on my front lower control arms as well. Drives excellent, I like a more sturdy ride.
I have found that Pollyurethane suspension parts can sometimes be an expensive mistake compared to good quality rubber parts. Polllyurethane does last longer but :- it can make the suspension harder giving a rougher ride, sometimes they cannot be fitted to sway bar drop links as you cannot compress them like you can with rubber when trying to refit the nuts, and they can tend to allow sway bars - torsion bars to slide side to side as the Pollyurethane Bushing too slippery to fit in the brackets.
Except for very extreme circumstances, I only use OEM parts on my Toyota. Think about how long the original OEM parts have lasted before you have replaced them with unknown aftermarket parts. Still great video, and understand you are just doing what the customer wants :)
It depends for me. Some of the OE Toyota stuff is priced well and other stuff is absurd. Great example from direct experience. I've got an '03 Tundra and OE control arm bushings are $140 a piece (just for a single bushing, not the pair). I can buy an entire aftermarket control arm set with the bushings already pressed in (upper, lower, both sides) for cheaper than I can get 2 Toyota bushings. Fuck that shit man. I'll just replace the control arms every few years if I have to, it's easy enough anyways.
talk to me about your decision making and what is extreme... as an example a crankShaft pulley for the 3.4 is 650$ MSRP... that is a TON of COIN for OEM compared to aftermarket... but the aftermarket is probably subPar quality to OEM... but HOW does anyone know??
Thank you once again Peter for another excellent walk through - I always drop by your channel for tips on how to maintain my Gen 3 1996 KZN185 Hilux Surf.
Excellent diagnosis! Excellent display of how you diagnose the problem and follow up to show how the actual part moves to fail. I’m not a mechanic but I want to learn. I can tell you would be a good teacher so I subscribed to your channel and gave you a thumbs up.
You might want to spray rusty stuff under a vehicle that you plan to unscrew with Blaster or WD-40, before you even start work. That can save you a lot of time and work fighting off dry, rusty nuts. That Blaster can be used to clean off greasy dirt, and cooked on decades - old gear oil deposits off small engines, and inside transmissions too. WD-40 will actually dissolve some rust, if you use multiple applications, and let it soak a while. So you might want to do the spraying first, and hit the nuts a few times with the spray before you get to the next ones. Those low end code scanners are worth it, so you can tell what is wrong, and can't get scammed by crooked mechanics. You start quoting error codes, and they know that you know something about vehicle repairs. They can't sell you stuff you don't need. Those bushings were totally gone on my old Expedition. I got to use my 3/8 inch drive Milwaukee impact gun. It had the nut unscrewed before I realized what was happening. I was like, wow, that was easy! Unless you are working on big trucks or heavy equipment, the 3/8 drive brushless Milwaukee impact is all you need. It fits in small spaces too, which is nice. Adjust the power for tightening because the impact can break small bolts on higher power. The little sucker is powerful.
I had an old Toyota Pickup with a body lift from the previous owner. The original body bushings were shot. I used that exact brand to replace them when I removed the body lift. Was a night and day difference. Its a more firm material than the factory rubber. It felt nice and tight on the road, but it was probably a bit noisier than it would have been if I went factory parts.
I have had some of those to install on the sway bar bushings for a while but need the metal brackets too and have been putting it off lol they are rusted af I got some for the sway bar end links but they were too wide to fit..
Polyurithane is a hard material so it won't flex as a rubber. I used OEm rubber bushings and TOYOTA still never use polyurithane bushings in any of their new models because those are really not functioning as a rubber bush.The 4WDaction youtube channel also showed broken ears on a rear axle of a toyota with polyurethane bushings.
I found sway bar bushings and end links for my 2010 Tacoma that had grease fittings. Also found wheel alignment adjusters with them when they wore out or were frozen. The rust was so bad they were cut off.
Use rubber bushings for better ride quality... I installed polyurethane bushings last week. Horrible. terrible and way too rough to handle bumps. First pothole I hit, the sound was so rough) loud that I thought someone slammed the car with a steel baseball bat.. Go rubber.
i do not understand how the sway bar bushings have a thing to do with making banging noise on broken roads?? I am trying to learn here, please educate me on the workings of this noise effect please thanks!
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I own a 99 4Runner limited with e-locker. 128k on the odometer. Very little body rust but the undercarriage was looking like the titanic. I removed everything but the engine and transmission and sandblasted and rebuilt the entire undercarriage, frame, fuel tank, rear axle and many other things. Chassis saver on everything with all new bushings pinion bearings, wheel bearings, seals and much more. Ton of work, spent all my spare time the past 4 months under it. To me well worth it. It’s almost new again
that is awesome to save yer old '99 T4R... i would love to see pics & video of yer handiwork restoring it 👀
Nice to see different parts getting used on different vehicle to see if they are worth buying for my Toyota
If you have the time and ability to do the research, there are plenty of parts that are compatible not only between car models but also different Manufacturers . The price differences for the same part but under different car labels is criminal.
Peter ….. nice repair video and you have a methodical and non-rushed approach to your vehicle repairs. It’s nice and refreshing to watch a skilled technician take care of a customer’s vehicle. Thank you again!
I have TRD polyurethane sway bar bushings. The problem is polyurethane squeaks when driving over things like speed bumps. The grease wears off. One trick I learned was to wrap the sway bar with plumber's tape (just the area of the bar the bushing goes on). That works for about a year before the squeaks return.
so stick with the pricey Toyota rubber bushings?? or try the MOOG brand rubber?
I have the same problem. Going back to oem.
@@itsmenotyou5799 OEM bushings and sway bar or just OEM bushings?
@@rkgsd I changed both. Too much trouble to keep greasing.
i just turn the radio up
I just installed these energy bushings yesterday on the front of my 01 sr5. The old inner bushings were so worn the had holes in them! Now I have poly bushings in all the rear control arms, shocks, swayer and links as well as the front sway bar and links. I plan on doing poly bushings on my front lower control arms as well. Drives excellent, I like a more sturdy ride.
i always wrap the bar with teflon tape and lube it with silicon grease. never squeak for decades
I have found that Pollyurethane suspension parts can sometimes be an expensive mistake compared to good quality rubber parts.
Polllyurethane does last longer but :- it can make the suspension harder giving a rougher ride, sometimes they cannot be fitted to sway bar drop links as you cannot compress them like you can with rubber when trying to refit the nuts, and they can tend to allow sway bars - torsion bars to slide side to side as the Pollyurethane Bushing too slippery to fit in the brackets.
or you got the wrong size and or didn't install them correctly
Except for very extreme circumstances, I only use OEM parts on my Toyota. Think about how long the original OEM parts have lasted before you have replaced them with unknown aftermarket parts. Still great video, and understand you are just doing what the customer wants :)
It depends for me. Some of the OE Toyota stuff is priced well and other stuff is absurd.
Great example from direct experience. I've got an '03 Tundra and OE control arm bushings are $140 a piece (just for a single bushing, not the pair). I can buy an entire aftermarket control arm set with the bushings already pressed in (upper, lower, both sides) for cheaper than I can get 2 Toyota bushings. Fuck that shit man. I'll just replace the control arms every few years if I have to, it's easy enough anyways.
Parts shortage.
Polyurethane will OUTLAST any sort of rubber but for poly you do have to grease at least once a year or 2.
@@OgreMoto exactly. I got OEM inner/ outer tie rods. For this kind of stuff though, I’ll go aftermarket. They’re easy to switch out.
talk to me about your decision making and what is extreme... as an example a crankShaft pulley for the 3.4 is 650$ MSRP... that is a TON of COIN for OEM compared to aftermarket... but the aftermarket is probably subPar quality to OEM... but HOW does anyone know??
Thank you once again Peter for another excellent walk through - I always drop by your channel for tips on how to maintain my Gen 3 1996 KZN185 Hilux Surf.
Excellent diagnosis! Excellent display of how you diagnose the problem and follow up to show how the actual part moves to fail. I’m not a mechanic but I want to learn. I can tell you would be a good teacher so I subscribed to your channel and gave you a thumbs up.
Thanks for sharing this video, I have found through my experience that red energy suspension chip and crack after a few years sway bar bushings.
You might want to spray rusty stuff under a vehicle that you plan to unscrew with Blaster or WD-40, before you even start work. That can save you a lot of time and work fighting off dry, rusty nuts. That Blaster can be used to clean off greasy dirt, and cooked on decades - old gear oil deposits off small engines, and inside transmissions too. WD-40 will actually dissolve some rust, if you use multiple applications, and let it soak a while. So you might want to do the spraying first, and hit the nuts a few times with the spray before you get to the next ones.
Those low end code scanners are worth it, so you can tell what is wrong, and can't get scammed by crooked mechanics. You start quoting error codes, and they know that you know something about vehicle repairs. They can't sell you stuff you don't need.
Those bushings were totally gone on my old Expedition. I got to use my 3/8 inch drive Milwaukee impact gun. It had the nut unscrewed before I realized what was happening. I was like, wow, that was easy! Unless you are working on big trucks or heavy equipment, the 3/8 drive brushless Milwaukee impact is all you need. It fits in small spaces too, which is nice. Adjust the power for tightening because the impact can break small bolts on higher power. The little sucker is powerful.
just did my sway bar bushings today. good video!
I love your channel!! Keep up the good work
That lube Is Silicone Grease
Just what I was thinking about buying.
As always another helpful video thank you sir
I had an old Toyota Pickup with a body lift from the previous owner. The original body bushings were shot. I used that exact brand to replace them when I removed the body lift. Was a night and day difference. Its a more firm material than the factory rubber. It felt nice and tight on the road, but it was probably a bit noisier than it would have been if I went factory parts.
Peter why are you still using the old Harbor Freight light and not the new Milwaukee one you got? Thanks for another perfect video my friend 👍
I have had some of those to install on the sway bar bushings for a while but need the metal brackets too and have been putting it off lol they are rusted af I got some for the sway bar end links but they were too wide to fit..
Old bushings were still okay looking to me, if it ain’t broke.....
Can you replace the bushings without completely removing the sway bar?
Can I replace them one by one ?
Can you replace bushings without jacking the car up or do you have to jack it up?
Awesome video. Do you have a link to buy the same parts you installed in this video.
Wow!!!!!!! 120k miles!!!!
Can I do this with the 4 runner on the ground or do I have to hack it up
You do good work
Polyurithane is a hard material so it won't flex as a rubber. I used OEm rubber bushings and TOYOTA still never use polyurithane bushings in any of their new models because those are really not functioning as a rubber bush.The 4WDaction youtube channel also showed broken ears on a rear axle of a toyota with polyurethane bushings.
Great video super helpful
Torque the nut for the end link bushings. Don't go by the number of threads.
👍👍👍 good work
I found sway bar bushings and end links for my 2010 Tacoma that had grease fittings. Also found wheel alignment adjusters with them when they wore out or were frozen. The rust was so bad they were cut off.
👍
Use rubber bushings for better ride quality... I installed polyurethane bushings last week. Horrible. terrible and way too rough to handle bumps. First pothole I hit, the sound was so rough) loud that I thought someone slammed the car with a steel baseball bat.. Go rubber.
i do not understand how the sway bar bushings have a thing to do with making banging noise on broken roads?? I am trying to learn here, please educate me on the workings of this noise effect please thanks!
WOW very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
This guy does not have a torque wrench! How could you call yourself a mechanic?
Don't need one if you're an experienced mechanic lol.
Would be great if everyone watched how to tighten those links properly!