Easy fix when you don't have the way to do it like the original setup, I remember back in the day with my 93 lincoln 4.6 I had the same problem, I actually saw the remaining tube out, made a thread and put a nipple with a hose all the way to the back, had the car for 7 more years, no problem came back with the issue, hope my comment helps, thank you.
Great video boss. I just started doing my own Mecanic work with all the great people posting helpful videos. I have a old f-150 with over 400 thousand miles and still kicking ass.
Really contemplating just going the same route they did with the rubber hose and clamps. I'm switching mine out because I'm in the middle of swapping to pi heads.
Very helpful. Getting ready to replace the intake manifold (again) and just want to have all my ducks in a row in case I run into this rotted situation. I have the part numbers now, and can make sure they're in stock before I start. Plus now I won't have to figure out how things come out! Thanks!
The main problem comes from not changing the antifreeze every 5 yrs as recommended. The antifreeze will break down and turn corrosive. It will slowly eat away at intake and head gaskets and that tube. Antifreeze is no different than oil....if u don't change them u will pay down the road.
Yes, that certainly is an issue. The other issue is people using tap water instead of coolant or distilled water when they are topping off their system.
The main problem is electrolysis in the coolant system. Check the grounds. Ground the heater core if you ever replace it. Add a ground strap from the alternator/engine to battery neg. Test for electrolysis in coolant. Videos on yt.
Question. Does this heater pipe that you are replacing get plugged up? Asking because I recently had to replace the heater core in my 1998 Ford Expedition 4.6l and the cost was substantial, considering the age of the truck. I replaced it because I the heater core got plugged up because I wasn’t changing the coolant like I was suppose to. Long story short, it was causing all sorts of engine over heating issues. I could always tell when my engine was about to overheat. The coolant gauge needle would barely move even though I had been driving for 5-6 minutes. The engine would start to ping. Then the coolant gauge needle would go hot. Anyway, got my heat back after the repair. Replaced the water pump 3 months prior because of failed bearings. Several months later, on a 30°F morning, the random engine overheat came back. Had to pull over on the highway. Noticed that coolant was leaking down the front of the engine. Thinking either the rubber o-ring seal is busted, the new water pump is leaking thru weep holes, or that heater tubing got plugged up causing the coolant to back out from the water pump.
I’ve never seen one get plugged, and I don’t think it would cause an overheat it if ever did. It would be similar to having a heater control valve stuck (you just wouldn’t get any heat). Your issue sounds more like it’s losing coolant somewhere. I’d pressure test it and see if you can find a leak.
@@RedeemedMechanic used the break in freezing temps to check the water-pump. It was hemorrhaging from the weep hole. There was no signs of coolant leaking from the engine/water-pump mounting surface. Water-pump failed after 6 months (Bought it new). Replaced it with a Motorcraft part. Should last a bit longer than 6 months. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
I have a 98 4.6 liter, so, the coolant is flowing forward? Sorry, but I want to get this right so I can put the restrictor in the hose just before it goes into the heater core. My radiator shop says that the restrictor is to 1) reduce the pressure and 2) slow down the coolant in the heater core so it can warm up faster and be more efficient. Makes sense to me. I plan to install a heater core bypass valve as well. @@RedeemedMechanic
@@timgiles9413 the input to the heater core is the other hose. So the one attached to the tube running under the manifold should NOT be the restricted one.
Hi John. That hole is not used on the passenger side. It’s the same hole that lines up with a water passage on the drivers side front of the engine block. It’s not needed on the passenger rear, but because left and right side heads use the same casting, the hole is still there.
How is it holding? I'm in the middle of the same process, except my 'nipple' was in better shape than yours, and I noticed that when I drove it out (pushed mine out the front), it had some sort of glue or epoxy flaking off inside the lip/flange... wondering if we are supposed to be using some sort of sealant, and if so, what..?
It’s still doing great. I’m not adding coolant and I have not indication of any leaks. Didn’t use any sealant when installing, just a bit of silicone lubricant to assist driving it in. If you want to use a thin layer of RTV black silicone sealant as added insurance I can’t see how it would hurt anything.I wouldn’t put any on the o-ring area, just a touch on the base.
After 2004 they have a different pipe. It doesn’t have the extra small-diameter nipple at the back of the head. But it goes in the same area and it’s essentially the same otherwise.
@@Christopher_R the long one that goes through the valley to the heater hoses is called the heater hose tube, there are a couple different ones depending on your model. The short stubby piece behind the water pump is just called a hose and it can be found using Dorman part number 626-571
It’s a 13mm bolt that has a stud extension on it. You remove the nut, then the pipe, then the bolt. (As long as it was assembled correctly by the last guy, lol).
I just recently changed the water pump radiator thermostat and reserve coolant tank and it started leaking from manifold area.. anyone knows what I might have done wrong
I have researched and worked on Non PI and PI intakes on the 4.6 engines. Why they routed a nipple and a metal heater tube under a plastic intake is beyond my comprehension. It is a big turd sandwich to fix and it is compounded by the fact that people put WATER in their coolant system. NEVER EVER put water in a radiator or coolant system. NEVER EVER. Did I mention NEVER NEVER EVER put water in a vehicle EVER. Water does not go in modern vehicles anywhere. DO NOT PUT WATER IN YOUR CAR. BTW Great Video.
Stupid design. Just had the same problem on a 2002 5.4 l e250. Live in Florida, heat not a concern. Pulled the water pump, drove a wine cork in the hole. Cut the other side near the heater core, put a bolt in the hose and secured with a hose clamp.
Depends on where it’s leaking. If you notice, the new one I installed has two O-rings on it. If it’s leaking between the heater pipe and the nipple, I’d change those (or replace the nipple). If it’s leaking between the nipple and the engine block, I would coat a new nipple with Permatex RTV on the very base of it and drive it in.
These were bad design from the factory. Ford covered their azz by labeling these intake manifolds "consumable parts". Which they certainly are. Expect to change one every 60k or so. If you're losing coolant and don't know where it's going, check the drivers side spark plug wells. They're probably full of coolant. I have a 2005 grand marquis with 225k and have replaced the intake 4 times, once under warranty. The next one was a Dorman and the one I just finished today was an ATP. (The Motorcraft part is no longer available) so we'll see how long that one lasts. It's not a bad job really. You can do one in a morning once you're good at it.
Hi Jay, I looked at the website I used for the heater pipe (RockAuto.com), but they didn’t have the Motorcraft part any more. They do have a Dorman part. If your pipe looks like mine with the extra little pipe tee’ing off of it, you’d need Dorman 626-567 If you don’t have that extra bit of pipe on there, it takes the Dorman 626-222. Both were in stock
You got more problems than that Dude! You have two different cylinder heads on your engine! One round port pre 99 year head on the passenger bank… A PI - Performance Enhanced rectangular port head in the drivers bank … That’s funny ….
Easy fix when you don't have the way to do it like the original setup, I remember back in the day with my 93 lincoln 4.6 I had the same problem, I actually saw the remaining tube out, made a thread and put a nipple with a hose all the way to the back, had the car for 7 more years, no problem came back with the issue, hope my comment helps, thank you.
Great video boss. I just started doing my own Mecanic work with all the great people posting helpful videos. I have a old f-150 with over 400 thousand miles and still kicking ass.
Thanks for videoing this for all us doomed to follow. We know what awaits.
Really contemplating just going the same route they did with the rubber hose and clamps. I'm switching mine out because I'm in the middle of swapping to pi heads.
Very helpful. Getting ready to replace the intake manifold (again) and just want to have all my ducks in a row in case I run into this rotted situation. I have the part numbers now, and can make sure they're in stock before I start. Plus now I won't have to figure out how things come out! Thanks!
Thanks. I wasn't sure which way that came out.
As Warren Zevon would say…
My Shits Fucked Up
The main problem comes from not changing the antifreeze every 5 yrs as recommended. The antifreeze will break down and turn corrosive. It will slowly eat away at intake and head gaskets and that tube. Antifreeze is no different than oil....if u don't change them u will pay down the road.
Yes, that certainly is an issue. The other issue is people using tap water instead of coolant or distilled water when they are topping off their system.
The main problem is electrolysis in the coolant system. Check the grounds. Ground the heater core if you ever replace it. Add a ground strap from the alternator/engine to battery neg. Test for electrolysis in coolant. Videos on yt.
That engine also has a npi head on the passenger side and a pi head on the driver side so one of the heads had been replaced before.
Yes, and it wreaked havoc during intake gasket selection. 🤣
Good catch!
First thing I noticed. Lol
run a heavy ground cable from the alternator mounting bolt to the battery negative to stop electrolysis (rust) in the coolant.
Thank you very much for a video that helped me a lot. wonderful
Question. Does this heater pipe that you are replacing get plugged up? Asking because I recently had to replace the heater core in my 1998 Ford Expedition 4.6l and the cost was substantial, considering the age of the truck. I replaced it because I the heater core got plugged up because I wasn’t changing the coolant like I was suppose to. Long story short, it was causing all sorts of engine over heating issues. I could always tell when my engine was about to overheat. The coolant gauge needle would barely move even though I had been driving for 5-6 minutes. The engine would start to ping. Then the coolant gauge needle would go hot. Anyway, got my heat back after the repair. Replaced the water pump 3 months prior because of failed bearings. Several months later, on a 30°F morning, the random engine overheat came back. Had to pull over on the highway. Noticed that coolant was leaking down the front of the engine. Thinking either the rubber o-ring seal is busted, the new water pump is leaking thru weep holes, or that heater tubing got plugged up causing the coolant to back out from the water pump.
I’ve never seen one get plugged, and I don’t think it would cause an overheat it if ever did. It would be similar to having a heater control valve stuck (you just wouldn’t get any heat).
Your issue sounds more like it’s losing coolant somewhere. I’d pressure test it and see if you can find a leak.
@ Will do. Thank you.
@@RedeemedMechanic used the break in freezing temps to check the water-pump. It was hemorrhaging from the weep hole. There was no signs of coolant leaking from the engine/water-pump mounting surface. Water-pump failed after 6 months (Bought it new). Replaced it with a Motorcraft part. Should last a bit longer than 6 months. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
What was the parts and part numbers tube and nipple thing. I can’t find them no where and you didn’t put it in description
Never mind you said it in the video
Which way does the coolant flow from that fitting? Thanks
It flows into the pump from the heater core.
I have a 98 4.6 liter,
so, the coolant is flowing forward?
Sorry, but I want to get this right so I can put the restrictor in the hose just before it goes into the heater core.
My radiator shop says that the restrictor is to 1) reduce the pressure and 2) slow down the coolant in the heater core so it can warm up faster and be more efficient. Makes sense to me.
I plan to install a heater core bypass valve as well. @@RedeemedMechanic
@@timgiles9413 the input to the heater core is the other hose. So the one attached to the tube running under the manifold should NOT be the restricted one.
@@RedeemedMechanic sounds good and many thanks 👍
On the left side near the where the intake gasket will sit its a whole that leaks down in the valley and on the floor. What goes in or over the hole
It's rear back area, it kinda looks like a water outlet for thermostat would sit their but I know the water thermostat housing is in the front
@redeemedmechanic
Hi John. That hole is not used on the passenger side. It’s the same hole that lines up with a water passage on the drivers side front of the engine block. It’s not needed on the passenger rear, but because left and right side heads use the same casting, the hole is still there.
Thanks
How much would you charge for labor on that type of job
I think it ran about $325 in labor last time I did one.
How is it holding? I'm in the middle of the same process, except my 'nipple' was in better shape than yours, and I noticed that when I drove it out (pushed mine out the front), it had some sort of glue or epoxy flaking off inside the lip/flange... wondering if we are supposed to be using some sort of sealant, and if so, what..?
It’s still doing great. I’m not adding coolant and I have not indication of any leaks. Didn’t use any sealant when installing, just a bit of silicone lubricant to assist driving it in. If you want to use a thin layer of RTV black silicone sealant as added insurance I can’t see how it would hurt anything.I wouldn’t put any on the o-ring area, just a touch on the base.
What yr is this engine? Is 2004 4.6 have a tube under the intake or hose ?
Great video
Thank you! The engine in the video is a 2002. I just looked up the part for a 2004 and the same part (Motorcraft KT19) is listed.
Thanks for the video. Do you know if this is the same for a 2010?
After 2004 they have a different pipe. It doesn’t have the extra small-diameter nipple at the back of the head. But it goes in the same area and it’s essentially the same otherwise.
What is that tube called? I can’t find it to order one…
@@Christopher_R the long one that goes through the valley to the heater hoses is called the heater hose tube, there are a couple different ones depending on your model.
The short stubby piece behind the water pump is just called a hose and it can be found using Dorman part number 626-571
What size is the stud that's hold the pipe on? There is a nut on there and I've gotten that off.
It’s a 13mm bolt that has a stud extension on it. You remove the nut, then the pipe, then the bolt. (As long as it was assembled correctly by the last guy, lol).
@@RedeemedMechanic thank you. I finally figured it out. Just a pain in the butt to get too.
Does this work for first inception modulars? I have a 93 with 4.6
If you mean the replacement nipple behind the waterpump, I don't think it will. The part only shows to fit 97 and up 4.6 engines.
Thank you so much
I just recently changed the water pump radiator thermostat and reserve coolant tank and it started leaking from manifold area.. anyone knows what I might have done wrong
Cracked manifold? Mines is leaking from the hose in this video but yours might have a crack .
Does the hard end towards firewall connect to heater core?
Yes, but there is a heater hose connecting the two.
I have researched and worked on Non PI and PI intakes on the 4.6 engines. Why they routed a nipple and a metal heater tube under a plastic intake is beyond my comprehension. It is a big turd sandwich to fix and it is compounded by the fact that people put WATER in their coolant system. NEVER EVER put water in a radiator or coolant system. NEVER EVER. Did I mention NEVER NEVER EVER put water in a vehicle EVER. Water does not go in modern vehicles anywhere. DO NOT PUT WATER IN YOUR CAR. BTW Great Video.
Poor people without easy access to coolant: th-cam.com/video/i2k8jhGFJDA/w-d-xo.html
I finally got the leak. Its from the rear of the engine . Heater is already deleted, Im betting its going to be this same rotted pipe.
i know this is an old post but YOU HAVE 1 PI AND 1 NON PI HEAD??! How does that even work?
It doesn’t. It ended up getting one head replaced to fix that issue. It definitely was a strange situation!
Yeah that’s crazy!! Did it run decent before you fixed the mismatch head issue??
Stupid design. Just had the same problem on a 2002 5.4 l e250. Live in Florida, heat not a concern. Pulled the water pump, drove a wine cork in the hole. Cut the other side near the heater core, put a bolt in the hose and secured with a hose clamp.
That’s actually pretty intriguing with the cork idea. Wonder how long the back of it will hold up to the flow of the impeller right behind it?
Does coolant only run through/ leak when heater is on?
Unfortunately, no. That will leak whether or not the heater is on or even connected.
Is this the same motor for the 2007 4.6 ?
Yes. The 2007 has the same setup with the pipe running under the intake.
Thank you big help for me thank you
The nipple was leaking on me. Any advice on how to fix that? Maybe with silicone?
Depends on where it’s leaking. If you notice, the new one I installed has two O-rings on it. If it’s leaking between the heater pipe and the nipple, I’d change those (or replace the nipple). If it’s leaking between the nipple and the engine block, I would coat a new nipple with Permatex RTV on the very base of it and drive it in.
These were bad design from the factory.
Ford covered their azz by labeling these intake manifolds "consumable parts". Which they certainly are. Expect to change one every 60k or so. If you're losing coolant and don't know where it's going, check the drivers side spark plug wells. They're probably full of coolant.
I have a 2005 grand marquis with 225k and have replaced the intake 4 times, once under warranty. The next one was a Dorman and the one I just finished today was an ATP. (The Motorcraft part is no longer available) so we'll see how long that one lasts.
It's not a bad job really. You can do one in a morning once you're good at it.
I’m having trouble finding that part . Can anyone help me out?
Hi Jay, I looked at the website I used for the heater pipe (RockAuto.com), but they didn’t have the Motorcraft part any more. They do have a Dorman part.
If your pipe looks like mine with the extra little pipe tee’ing off of it, you’d need Dorman 626-567
If you don’t have that extra bit of pipe on there, it takes the Dorman 626-222.
Both were in stock
You got more problems than that Dude!
You have two different cylinder heads on your engine!
One round port pre 99 year head on the passenger bank…
A PI - Performance Enhanced rectangular port head in the drivers bank …
That’s funny ….
Cant help to notice 1 PI head and 1 none PI
@@porfiriosalas2800 yup. I didn’t notice until I was putting the manifold back on. Kinda threw me for a loop, idk why someone would do that.
you have a pi head and non pi head
Crazy right?? 😂😂