I just restored one of these that had been in a barn with no roof for the last 40 years. It was completely frozen up. It took me 2 months of soaking in diesel and then wire brushing then rust remover to get it apart so I could just get starting to restore it. Great job on your restoration. I plan on putting my restoration on my you tube channel shortly. Thanks for posting
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship You're welcome, because you bring so much warmth into your workshop that we all look at you with admiration. We also deal with the same things, where tools come first. Greetings from Serbia.
I did one of these a few years back that was rusted to hell and back and seized up solid. I put the whole thing into an electrolytic tank and let it brew for about ten days, lifting it [and the sacrificial bar] out for wire brushing, by hand, every couple of days to remove loose material. It gave amazing results, removing only the rust and none of the metal, and even penetrated into rusted threads, freeing them off. once it came apart, I stripped down to component parts and but them back in the tank. It all looks black as night when it comes out, but wire brushing gives a great 'old metal' finish. Under all the crap was a vise in great working condition.
Great job. But, not to detract from you fabulous work, you where removing parent metal. Any process to remove the iron oxide is removing the metal. Rust is not “on” the metal, iron oxide IS the metal. Rust is the metal, it’s in the metal. Rust is not some foreign thing that attaches itself to the iron, it is the iron attacked by / converted by oxygen in the air. But don’t feel bad, the choices are: leave the oxidation process continue by leaving the metal to continue to oxidize into iron oxide… or remove the iron that’s been converted to iron oxide and try to slow down the conversion to iron oxide via use, oil, wax, paint ( yuk), or some other coating to help temporarily keep the oxygen from converting the iron into iron oxide. So, the rust you removed, was once the actual iron of the vise. Wish there were more young people who honored past industrial objects that built their great world as is theirs to continue keeping.
@@thatsthewayitgoes9 Quite so! Once the original iron has changed chemically into rust you cannot magically get it to change back into iron and get it to 'stick back on'. My point is that removing the rust by electrolysis does not result in any further loss of original metal. All acidic rust removers such as hydrochloric, citric, vinegar etc. will remove rust, but are equally voracious at eating away at the parent metal. Every time you take a flap disc, grinder or sand blaster to the piece your are removing metal as well. It may be that you want to get to a smooth or polished finish, then abrasives are probably your best bet. If you wish to conserve a tool to show original markings from the manufacturing process, or from many decades of use or perhaps to find 'invisible' makers names, calibration marks and the like; then Electrolysis is the way to go. It is a bit of a messy process, but it is also dirt cheap to do. Commercial rust removers are ridiculously expensive to buy, but are based on cheap chemicals... quite a ripoff in my view. There is also a 'halfway house' where you remove some of the rust, but leave some in the pitting and in surface micro cracking which can then be converted into a substance that is very resistant to rust formation. My favourite method is to treat the item in hot tannic acid. This is a weak acid that is not very active in steel but will convert any remaining rust into Ferric Tannnate a durable substance that will not rust. This method is widely used by museum conservators. It stabilizes tool rusting, while leaving a pleasant grey/black 'antique' look. Subsequent coating with oil/wax mixtures will go a long way towards keeping the item in good condition. You can buy commercial 'rust convertors', many based on tannic acid, or so called 'specially engineered' anti rust oils, but once again these are way overpriced. ..... or you could just paint it lol .... but then I'd have to shoot you ! ;
True - I have gathered up copper hammers from 2 ounce to 7lb and a good selection of copper drifts over the years. I would surprise many folks how often they get used, and how much damage they have prevented.
Another great work from the Workshop Master......Dusty!! I hope you enjoy that vise the same time that gear is living.... Nice work. I will remind you next Wednesday because I’ll go to my Archery Club.... it is sunny in Spain now and I have to practice after the pandemy, I have a little oxide in my arms. Greetings a lot from Spain, Dustin. Be safe and take care.
Dustin, Devon, I am absolutely Loving your Channel. Discovered you during the lockdowns here in Leeds, UK over the last year. Your podcsst is crushing it as well!! Currently converting my old chicken run into a green woodworking shop. Then will come the forge. Thanks for the great content. You guys are inspiring.
Manufacturers had screw cutting lathes in the early 19th century, someone else may comment they had them quite a bit before. Which wouldn’t surprise me. Most small screws ( of which this vise screw is definitely not a small screw) where formed using a screw plate and later dies that cut. Your vise screw was made on a lathe that could cut screw threads. Same for the internal threads in the box nut
Great video on a post vise restoration with a couple of wrinkles thrown in there. Looks good, I'm glad you're going to get some use out of that nice old piece.
Cool project. I have done similar restorations. I use a white vinegar and salt solution to remove the rust. Just soak it overnight. I’m sorry I don’t have the exact salt to vinegar ratio. I just add about three or four tablespoons of salt to 1 gallon of vinegar. Works pretty good. I don’t care the chemicals. Also liquid wrench or knocker loose is better than w d40. Great job thanks for sharing
Just stared attempting to restore leg vise that looks exactly like yours, Mine has the spring but the nut on the pivot bolt that hold the bottoms of jaws is missing and bolt is stuck. There is also a small section of the bottom on the leg missing and slight bend at point of break.
Only thing missing is a mirror polish on all the surfaces and re-ordering a new spring from Fischer. (I am teasing beyond belief) I am envious of you with that vice! Good job and presentation. If you learn anything further about the Fischer name on the vice, be sure to bring it up in future videos. Eric with Hand Tool Restoration channel seems to be a master at locating old patent drawings.
Son....may I suggest that you consider saving your back. There were quite a few moments in which you were more then 90 degrees bent at the waist. Take it from an old goat that gets a twinge in his sciatica whenever he considers picking up something from the floor. Bring the work UP TO YOUR LEVEL. The extra time and effort will pay dividends in your old age.
I have one of these awaiting restoration. This is informative. I'm getting my engineering vices up to standard first, which will give me something to hold the "leg vice" (as they are known in the UK) in when its turn comes.
I just found one of these shoved away in the back corner of the granary at my wife's family farm. It's probably been forgotten there for 80 years or more. I had to look it up in a book to even know what it was as I have never seen this style of vise before. Super excited to mount it up and put it back to work.
What a beautiful vise. I have one very similar waiting to be restored, can't wait! Also, Slaysman seemed like a cool dude and what an awesome name. I bet he can make a sword that slaysmen... I'll let myself out
for this purpose, mild steel will do the job. The jaws on these vises are rarely opened very far, so the spring itself is not bent much and it will 'recover' If you wanted a more powerful spring action, then use hi carbon steel, harden and temper to blue .... but remember the stronger the spring, the more work you have to put in to tighten the vise every time you use it
Do yourself a favor. Use boiled linseed oil all over. I used it on my leg vice anvils and hammers. Just restored mine ....still looking for a mounting plate. Great video.🛠
I wanted to clean off a railroad bracket I wanted to paint on.... I put it in a icecream Pail with vinegar. Took thevrustvoff right down to the metal. Best deruster I have ever used. Could even read the printing on it after which was totally covered in rust... Beautiful piece now.
i use plain white distilled 5% vinegar for my Rust it works well just have to let set for days on really bad rusted parts plus help it out by cleaning here and there in the process of derusting parts.
my sister gave me one like yours and had no idea why the vise had a long leg extension now i think ive learned something new today from a workman's antique vise i could not figure why extra metal to vise metal or wood but now i understand why .
"PB Blaster" is a hundred times better than WD as a rust remover. It was invented around 1957 when I was a motorhead kid and I still use it to this day. Have removed many a broken exhaust manifold stud with it.
1863 was when that vice was finally patented as the "Solid Box" leg vice, but had been made with a key that was solid forged with the main thread/housing as 1 piece. The fact that yours has a key that's wielded on means that it's from the original design created about ~1820.
Nice restoration, you may want to add some screw on jaws that would take the gap instead of the thick spacer. Steel, Aluminum and Copper versions could be added by tapping the fixed jaws.
Hey Vlad. I am still sending it to you, just need to finish prepping the handle scales so all you have to do is glue and screw the corby bolts and shape the handle. I’ll reach out to you later this week when I send it.
Didn’t look through all the comments. There was a fisher company in Sheffield uk. Made Metal tools of every kind. Would have been there peak back then.
it is a tool that was meant to be pounded on, and most likely has been for a hundred years or so, you can hit it harder and it will be fine. this will become your go to vise just because it will hold up to the abuse.
There is no way I could hold the two halves of my post vice in one hand like you did this one after wire wheeling it outside. I have a 6" post vice though
OK, I did the same thing but no chemical rust remover. A bench grinder and angle grinder with wire wheels did a great job of getting it to bare metal THEN.......Heated every piece and used boiled linseed oil and HOLY MUFFIN STRUTS!!!!!! It's beautiful!. Why the chemical stripper at all? the wire wheels worked better... great old vice.
I really enjoy this intro not like my intro its very creative and mine is all edited lol🤣🤣🤣 And be careful with those metal pieces you could really get hurt😵 But besides all that your channel is probably better than mine ngl. I only have 27 subs lol but dont feel bad im gud. And yas this is Lindy
Restoring tends to be used for getting something back into good working order .. and renovating is 'making as new again' ... and making everything a mirror finish is some 'pointless artform'.
You got a vice to work with for the next 200 years😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
where i work in Sheffield England we still use these kinds of vises every day for knife making
Cheers!
This gives me some real This Old House Vibes
Thank you for showing us what it probably looked like back in the day instead of turning it into an odd-shaped mirror.
Great work, thanks
Man, that's a good looking vise! Always good to see new life breathed into a piece of history!
Thanks brother
I just restored one of these that had been in a barn with no roof for the last 40 years. It was completely frozen up. It took me 2 months of soaking in diesel and then wire brushing then rust remover to get it apart so I could just get starting to restore it. Great job on your restoration. I plan on putting my restoration on my you tube channel shortly. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching Mickey!
That's amazing.
Very impresive.
Thanks Marko.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship
You're welcome, because you bring so much warmth into your workshop that we all look at you with admiration. We also deal with the same things, where tools come first. Greetings from Serbia.
I did one of these a few years back that was rusted to hell and back and seized up solid. I put the whole thing into an electrolytic tank and let it brew for about ten days, lifting it [and the sacrificial bar] out for wire brushing, by hand, every couple of days to remove loose material. It gave amazing results, removing only the rust and none of the metal, and even penetrated into rusted threads, freeing them off. once it came apart, I stripped down to component parts and but them back in the tank. It all looks black as night when it comes out, but wire brushing gives a great 'old metal' finish. Under all the crap was a vise in great working condition.
Great job. But, not to detract from you fabulous work, you where removing parent metal. Any process to remove the iron oxide is removing the metal. Rust is not “on” the metal, iron oxide IS the metal. Rust is the metal, it’s in the metal. Rust is not some foreign thing that attaches itself to the iron, it is the iron attacked by / converted by oxygen in the air. But don’t feel bad, the choices are: leave the oxidation process continue by leaving the metal to continue to oxidize into iron oxide… or remove the iron that’s been converted to iron oxide and try to slow down the conversion to iron oxide via use, oil, wax, paint ( yuk), or some other coating to help temporarily keep the oxygen from converting the iron into iron oxide. So, the rust you removed, was once the actual iron of the vise. Wish there were more young people who honored past industrial objects that built their great world as is theirs to continue keeping.
@@thatsthewayitgoes9
Quite so! Once the original iron has changed chemically into rust you cannot magically get it to change back into iron and get it to 'stick back on'. My point is that removing the rust by electrolysis does not result in any further loss of original metal. All acidic rust removers such as hydrochloric, citric, vinegar etc. will remove rust, but are equally voracious at eating away at the parent metal. Every time you take a flap disc, grinder or sand blaster to the piece your are removing metal as well. It may be that you want to get to a smooth or polished finish, then abrasives are probably your best bet. If you wish to conserve a tool to show original markings from the manufacturing process, or from many decades of use or perhaps to find 'invisible' makers names, calibration marks and the like; then Electrolysis is the way to go. It is a bit of a messy process, but it is also dirt cheap to do. Commercial rust removers are ridiculously expensive to buy, but are based on cheap chemicals... quite a ripoff in my view.
There is also a 'halfway house' where you remove some of the rust, but leave some in the pitting and in surface micro cracking which can then be converted into a substance that is very resistant to rust formation. My favourite method is to treat the item in hot tannic acid. This is a weak acid that is not very active in steel but will convert any remaining rust into Ferric Tannnate a durable substance that will not rust. This method is widely used by museum conservators. It stabilizes tool rusting, while leaving a pleasant grey/black 'antique' look. Subsequent coating with oil/wax mixtures will go a long way towards keeping the item in good condition.
You can buy commercial 'rust convertors', many based on tannic acid, or so called 'specially engineered' anti rust oils, but once again these are way overpriced.
..... or you could just paint it lol .... but then I'd have to shoot you ! ;
Very Cool restoration !!!!!!!!!!!
Glad to see you know better than to hammer on a bolt with a hardened steel hammer unlike many other "restoration" channels. 👏👏
Thanks! The last thing I wanted to do was damage a piece of this vise. Some things just seem like common sense .
True - I have gathered up copper hammers from 2 ounce to 7lb and a good selection of copper drifts over the years. I would surprise many folks how often they get used, and how much damage they have prevented.
Another great work from the Workshop Master......Dusty!! I hope you enjoy that vise the same time that gear is living.... Nice work. I will remind you next Wednesday because I’ll go to my Archery Club.... it is sunny in Spain now and I have to practice after the pandemy, I have a little oxide in my arms. Greetings a lot from Spain, Dustin. Be safe and take care.
Thank you my friend! Happy shooting!
Lovely bit of old kit👍
It is, and I’m excited to put it back to work.
Nice job. Looks great.
Dustin, Devon, I am absolutely Loving your Channel. Discovered you during the lockdowns here in Leeds, UK over the last year. Your podcsst is crushing it as well!! Currently converting my old chicken run into a green woodworking shop. Then will come the forge. Thanks for the great content. You guys are inspiring.
Thanks for comment and compliments brother! Glad you’re enjoying what we’ve got to offer.
That thread in the vise is just beautiful. It's hard for me to imagine how the blacksmiths accomplished that 150 years ago
I agree. I was a bit shocked at how nice it is.
Manufacturers had screw cutting lathes in the early 19th century, someone else may comment they had them quite a bit before. Which wouldn’t surprise me. Most small screws ( of which this vise screw is definitely not a small screw) where formed using a screw plate and later dies that cut. Your vise screw was made on a lathe that could cut screw threads. Same for the internal threads in the box nut
@@thatsthewayitgoes9 The internal threads are not cut but are a spiral brazzed in the forge welded tube.
Anybody who can make a beautiful thing with a Harbor Freight angle grinder must be good.
Awesome restore. I like how you made the washer/spacer and spring yourself. Inspirational
Thanks
Great video on a post vise restoration with a couple of wrinkles thrown in there. Looks good, I'm glad you're going to get some use out of that nice old piece.
Thanks Jeff!
Well done nice to see you kept it well used.
Cool project. I have done similar restorations. I use a white vinegar and salt solution to remove the rust. Just soak it overnight. I’m sorry I don’t have the exact salt to vinegar ratio. I just add about three or four tablespoons of salt to 1 gallon of vinegar. Works pretty good. I don’t care the chemicals. Also liquid wrench or knocker loose is better than w d40. Great job thanks for sharing
Thanks for the suggestions.
Ready for another 150 years.
Hope so!
Just stared attempting to restore leg vise that looks exactly like yours, Mine has the spring but the nut on the pivot bolt that hold the bottoms of jaws is missing and bolt is stuck. There is also a small section of the bottom on the leg missing and slight bend at point of break.
Only thing missing is a mirror polish on all the surfaces and re-ordering a new spring from Fischer. (I am teasing beyond belief) I am envious of you with that vice! Good job and presentation.
If you learn anything further about the Fischer name on the vice, be sure to bring it up in future videos. Eric with Hand Tool Restoration channel seems to be a master at locating old patent drawings.
Haha thanks for watching! We will share any findings.
Mirror finish would be cool
Beautiful work.
Great video! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Philip!
That is a beautiful piece of equipment.
Son....may I suggest that you consider saving your back. There were quite a few moments in which you were more then 90 degrees bent at the waist. Take it from an old goat that gets a twinge in his sciatica whenever he considers picking up something from the floor.
Bring the work UP TO YOUR LEVEL. The extra time and effort will pay dividends in your old age.
Thanks Dad.
very nice, wish i had one of these!
I have one of these awaiting restoration. This is informative. I'm getting my engineering vices up to standard first, which will give me something to hold the "leg vice" (as they are known in the UK) in when its turn comes.
I want one to.That was a good video.
I just found one of these shoved away in the back corner of the granary at my wife's family farm. It's probably been forgotten there for 80 years or more. I had to look it up in a book to even know what it was as I have never seen this style of vise before. Super excited to mount it up and put it back to work.
What a beautiful vise. I have one very similar waiting to be restored, can't wait! Also, Slaysman seemed like a cool dude and what an awesome name. I bet he can make a sword that slaysmen... I'll let myself out
Good looking vice! I’m hoping to find one soon!
Thanks Justin! Good luck sir!
Excelente trabajo!
I’ve got a huge old Columbia Vice I’ve been putting off setting up, might have to soon
Do it.
That is vintage. Mine is probably 1900 and needs a spring. Does spring steel survive after being heated red hot
for this purpose, mild steel will do the job. The jaws on these vises are rarely opened very far, so the spring itself is not bent much and it will 'recover' If you wanted a more powerful spring action, then use hi carbon steel, harden and temper to blue .... but remember the stronger the spring, the more work you have to put in to tighten the vise every time you use it
Do yourself a favor. Use boiled linseed oil all over. I used it on my leg vice anvils and hammers. Just restored mine ....still looking for a mounting plate. Great video.🛠
I wanted to clean off a railroad bracket I wanted to paint on.... I put it in a icecream Pail with vinegar. Took thevrustvoff right down to the metal. Best deruster I have ever used. Could even read the printing on it after which was totally covered in rust... Beautiful piece now.
i use plain white distilled 5% vinegar for my Rust it works well just have to let set for days on really bad rusted parts plus help it out by cleaning here and there in the process of derusting parts.
my sister gave me one like yours and had no idea why the vise had a long leg extension now i think ive learned something new today from a workman's antique vise i could not figure why extra metal to vise metal or wood but now i understand why .
Did you temper the spring? Or as is? Greetings from Holland, like your video's.
I left it as is. I read a few places that it didn’t need to be. It’s worked perfectly so far. Thanks.
"PB Blaster" is a hundred times better than WD as a rust remover. It was invented around 1957 when I was a motorhead kid and I still use it to this day. Have removed many a broken exhaust manifold stud with it.
Buen trabajo yo ya he arreglado varios y son herramientas para toda la vida in saludo
The old timers as a group sure took pride in their craftsmanship.
Hi Dustin, have you tried soaking the parts in vinegar? If you soak rusted parts over night you can wipe the rust off.
Nice Job by the way!
Nice little vice , I'm looking for one but it's very hard to find one in reparable condition in Australia . :)
Good luck Douglas!
1863 was when that vice was finally patented as the "Solid Box" leg vice, but had been made with a key that was solid forged with the main thread/housing as 1 piece. The fact that yours has a key that's wielded on means that it's from the original design created about ~1820.
Nice restoration, you may want to add some screw on jaws that would take the gap instead of the thick spacer. Steel, Aluminum and Copper versions could be added by tapping the fixed jaws.
Did you re-harden the spring off camera?
No. Thanks for the question. This will be featured in the next 5 Questions video.
Just discovered your channel and subscribed, great work! What anvil is it you have? Thanks.
Hi! It's me, the one who won the Journey Knife. It's been 3 months already and I haven't got the journey knife yet... Are you still giving it?
Hey Vlad. I am still sending it to you, just need to finish prepping the handle scales so all you have to do is glue and screw the corby bolts and shape the handle. I’ll reach out to you later this week when I send it.
Wow I donated one of those to the Park Ridge Historical society in N.J. Last year
Didn’t look through all the comments. There was a fisher company in Sheffield uk. Made Metal tools of every kind. Would have been there peak back then.
Dang!!! Thanks so much. I’ll look them up.
... and a lot of vices were exported to the US back then.... Peter Wright, a maker from Dudley in the Black country, was a case in point
it is a tool that was meant to be pounded on, and most likely has been for a hundred years or so, you can hit it harder and it will be fine. this will become your go to vise just because it will hold up to the abuse.
There is no way I could hold the two halves of my post vice in one hand like you did this one after wire wheeling it outside. I have a 6" post vice though
when you step up to a 6 inch from 4 inch, the weight trebles - if my two are anything to go by ...
OK, I did the same thing but no chemical rust remover. A bench grinder and angle grinder with wire wheels did a great job of getting it to bare metal THEN.......Heated every piece and used boiled linseed oil and HOLY MUFFIN STRUTS!!!!!! It's beautiful!. Why the chemical stripper at all? the wire wheels worked better...
great old vice.
Drink when he says "forge welded"!
Penetrating oil and a little heat works wonders rather than WD40. Kroil is one of the best.
Thank Larry
'Plus Gas' was the best I found - if they still make it ?
Check out this thread.. www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/blacksmith-vise.php It looks like the Fischer #3 or #4 Blacksmith's Post vise. Great work.
I really enjoy this intro not like my intro its very creative and mine is all edited lol🤣🤣🤣 And be careful with those metal pieces you could really get hurt😵 But besides all that your channel is probably better than mine ngl. I only have 27 subs lol but dont feel bad im gud. And yas this is Lindy
Thanks Lindy. Keep up the work, and you’ll get there.
It gives in Germany a Karl Fischer GmbH that Malkes Schraubstöcke aber keine Ahnung wie alt die Firma ist
fisher price :)
Back before his switch over to the toy business.
What would those old boys say about America today. Fear of God and Dads seem to sort most things out.
4th comment
in my poor english i dont know that restoring = cleaning
Restoring tends to be used for getting something back into good working order .. and renovating is 'making as new again' ... and making everything a mirror finish is some 'pointless artform'.
You literally did everything so wrong holy crap. Wire wheeling is supposed to be done dry. You were spraying wd40 on it like a nimrod lmao
Not sure which “rule book” you are basing this information off of. 🤷🏼♂️😂
Hey could you cut out the mouth breathing?