just repaired mine. but I did not need vice grips. after putting on the wire on the smaller part of the rollers and running it up and down it snapped into place :)
do you mean the rubberised finish they put on the electric window switch block? I tried a few different things, neat acetone scrubbed onto the part seemed to lift it although it required quite a lot of scrubbing. As it happens the 406 uses the same switch unit but they never had the crappy rubberised finish so sourcing the same part from a 406 will tidy up the interior.
It is pain in the azz to get rid of that rubberised finish. I have a facelift 607 so the connections of the 406 window switch block is different. Do you have any ideas what to do next?
This one took a fair bit of elbow grease to remove the finish and even at that it wasnt perfect. Perhaps some sort of vinyl wrap would hide it, or a mild form of sandblasting might get it off, sandpaper and possibly then paint it again. This 607 was only a £200 banger i was using last year so its aestetics were never a huge concern but can understand how looking at something like this in a nicer model can be unpleasent. Im not sure but does the switch block itself look different in the facelift car? perhaps if its just the wiring and connectors then it might be possible to still get a 406 unit and transfer the facelift 607 electronics into the housing of a 406 unit.
You snapped the aluminum rails with pliers and damage the surface, no, no, no...! Second, I would never put the pop rivets on speaker holder, I would put the screws or bolts and put some locktite bolt glue.
If this is the bit at around 12:42. The rails are steel not aluminium, a significantly harder metal with different mechanical properties, one being that its less likely to crack or get damaged under such circumstances. While there may have been some light marking on the rail from the pliers it in no way affected the operation of the window mechanism. The window continued to function as long as i owned the car, ive also done this on my daily driver 406 which has no issues. The window goes up and down smoothly and quietly. Regarding the speaker, they were held on from the factory with rivets. Mainly because access around the back to get a nut on is limited. A rivnut would be a good idea but given how infrequently the speaker has to be removed its not really necessary. That would mean buying rivnuts and the proper tool to install them.
I don't think silicone is good for lubricating the windshield guide. This item should simply be washed and dried. Likewise, silicone is not suitable for lubricating the mechanism rail.
I find silicone spray on the rubber track helps to reduce friction and unlike wd40 will not damage the rubber. It has never done the mechanism any harm. That has been my experience, never had any issues with it.
No i will totally disagree with that comment. What was broke? The video started with a window that did not function correctly in the end it worked, and continued to work for a long time after. Even the evaporation barrier was carefully removed and reinstalled. Where is this damage that you speak of?
Thanks for this Video !!!!!! Many many thanks !!!!!! It helps a lot for me to do it by myself !!!!!!
Thank you very much for the comment great to read the video has helped.
just repaired mine. but I did not need vice grips. after putting on the wire on the smaller part of the rollers and running it up and down it snapped into place :)
Superb, i think i might have got the cable into a bit of a bind and needed the grips suppose doing it enough times it would get a bit more efficent.
grear vidéo, great job. hope to see you again. ☺
Thanks for the video. Will also get the repair kits and have my technician fix it. Great saver on costs.
How do you get that black wax of from switch box? It looks terrible.
do you mean the rubberised finish they put on the electric window switch block?
I tried a few different things, neat acetone scrubbed onto the part seemed to lift it although it required quite a lot of scrubbing.
As it happens the 406 uses the same switch unit but they never had the crappy rubberised finish so sourcing the same part from a 406 will tidy up the interior.
Yes that was what i was mean. Thank you. I shall try that acetone first...
It is pain in the azz to get rid of that rubberised finish. I have a facelift 607 so the connections of the 406 window switch block is different. Do you have any ideas what to do next?
This one took a fair bit of elbow grease to remove the finish and even at that it wasnt perfect. Perhaps some sort of vinyl wrap would hide it, or a mild form of sandblasting might get it off, sandpaper and possibly then paint it again. This 607 was only a £200 banger i was using last year so its aestetics were never a huge concern but can understand how looking at something like this in a nicer model can be unpleasent. Im not sure but does the switch block itself look different in the facelift car? perhaps if its just the wiring and connectors then it might be possible to still get a 406 unit and transfer the facelift 607 electronics into the housing of a 406 unit.
great video imo, have faulty one myself to look at soon.
Where did you buy the refurbished kit?
I bought it on ebay, although i have now scrapped this 607 and kept this window regulator for the drivers side.
peugeotCitroen2CV ok thanks
impressed geezer well done
You snapped the aluminum rails with pliers and damage the surface, no, no, no...! Second, I would never put the pop rivets on speaker holder, I would put the screws or bolts and put some locktite bolt glue.
If this is the bit at around 12:42. The rails are steel not aluminium, a significantly harder metal with different mechanical properties, one being that its less likely to crack or get damaged under such circumstances.
While there may have been some light marking on the rail from the pliers it in no way affected the operation of the window mechanism.
The window continued to function as long as i owned the car, ive also done this on my daily driver 406 which has no issues. The window goes up and down smoothly and quietly.
Regarding the speaker, they were held on from the factory with rivets. Mainly because access around the back to get a nut on is limited. A rivnut would be a good idea but given how infrequently the speaker has to be removed its not really necessary. That would mean buying rivnuts and the proper tool to install them.
I don't think silicone is good for lubricating the windshield guide. This item should simply be washed and dried. Likewise, silicone is not suitable for lubricating the mechanism rail.
I find silicone spray on the rubber track helps to reduce friction and unlike wd40 will not damage the rubber. It has never done the mechanism any harm.
That has been my experience, never had any issues with it.
Nice!
Супер!!!
Thanks for the comment
Wow :)
Has to be one of the worst cheapest nastiest systems ever devised
Because it broke after working for 15 years and was entirely fixable DIY for under £20? Yeah really that's the worst system🤷♂️
You made more damage than fixing it very very bad worker
No i will totally disagree with that comment.
What was broke?
The video started with a window that did not function correctly in the end it worked, and continued to work for a long time after. Even the evaporation barrier was carefully removed and reinstalled.
Where is this damage that you speak of?