#688

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 31

  • @davidv1289
    @davidv1289 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you Scott for putting this information out, I'm sure it will help someone get their project completed. After seeing your review of that microscope I purchased one. I got the AD206 which has up to 8X magnification. This allowed me to add a bracket the raises the microscope 8 cm and moves it out 7 cm allowing me to view the center of 22 cm wide boards and improves the working room.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nice setup, this one is good for quick setup and obviously for showing a larger image of what I’m working on for the camera.

  • @scythascytha2849
    @scythascytha2849 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for this. This was the exact module that I plan on converting too. Wish me luck

  • @jameshanna5865
    @jameshanna5865 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Thank you very much for sparking an idea for my OLED. I have the exact OLED that you have. I bought 2 of them for a project. I followed your instructions and converted them to I2C with no issues. unfortunately, I've been searching for a way to change the I2C address for this screen. I read the data sheet for some of the screens. they say in I2C mode the DC pin sets the address. DC pin to ground or vcc. so, I went the safe route and went to ground. no change of address in the I2C scanner. so, I connected DC to vcc. dam near burnt out my ESP32. so, the DC pin is grounded. until I watched your video again and you said that R10 goes to the DC pin, that sparked the idea to remove the new jumper and solder a wire to the side of the R10 the connects to the DC pin. so, I tried ground and vcc. no sparking or smoke this time. if you connect R10 to vcc it changes the address to 0X3D. if you put the jumper in at R10, ground DC pin or leave open, the address will be 0X3C. so thank you again for a great mod. now I can use two of these OLED screens on one ESP32.

  • @allthegearnoidea6752
    @allthegearnoidea6752 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very useful information thanks for sharing

  • @SoddingaboutSi
    @SoddingaboutSi 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Clever stuff! Interesting Scott.

  • @AJB2K3
    @AJB2K3 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for this guide.

  • @brendanfurlong7868
    @brendanfurlong7868 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you ,,Couldn't find this info anywhere ..if only they put some more info on the back of these things ,would only take two or three words to make it clear what needs to be done to convert to I2C . Great job :-)

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I’m glad that it was helpful.

  • @nickfeva7390
    @nickfeva7390 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    sorry whats the default i2c address? i cant pick it up from the video

  • @encloudersunoftheearth5453
    @encloudersunoftheearth5453 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hello!
    What about controller? Arduino? What about library? Which pins are u used to connect?

    • @fenohikari
      @fenohikari 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@encloudersunoftheearth5453 i know i'm looking for that 😭 did u find any more resources? Please do tell me if you did and did it work for you?

  • @rogergoetty3701
    @rogergoetty3701 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for your video! My display is looks like your, only the pins are on the side and R11 is under the ribbon. Had put 4k7 resistors at R10,11 and 12, but the screen flickers a bit. Lets solder some 0 ohm and see what happens.

  • @Ne3M1
    @Ne3M1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you sir!

  • @chefbink61
    @chefbink61 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Leaded is all I use,,,,,, I'm already crazy so I'm not worried! Thanks for showing this info,,, good to know!!

  • @spleenware
    @spleenware 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for info, but I'm trying to figure out how to select I2C address 0x3D for these? Is it something to do with R12??

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I’ve not been in a situation yet that requires a change of address, so I haven’t had to do it myself yet.

    • @icarossavvides2641
      @icarossavvides2641 ปีที่แล้ว

      Read the Wiki on I2C!

  • @Hasitier
    @Hasitier 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I also got 2 of those displays and would like to try spi first before changing them to iic. But which is the mosi and miso pins? I don’t get it. Maybe you can help how to connect in spi mode which pins? Thanks a lot.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I haven't used one in SPI mode yet, pinout is GND (0V), VCC (3.3V-5V), SCK (Clock), SDA (MOSI), RES (Reset), DC (Data Control), CS (Chip Select)

  • @JohnPorsbjerg
    @JohnPorsbjerg 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Slightly embarassed to be a 4th semester electrical engineering major and not being able to figure out that the resistor terminals labelled IIC on the back of my oled screen is what needed to be connected for it to run in IIC mode, and having to look it up. But this video is super helpful and i feel more at ease going to work on this stupid tiny screen now lol.

  • @Daveyk021
    @Daveyk021 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    That ADONSTAR seems fast enough to really use. I will have to look it up.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Daveyk021 - I did a review on it late last year, with links to it, #665 Andonstar AD207 Digital Microscope Review - How Does It Compare To Eakins and Mustool G600 ? th-cam.com/video/s1Ou2YKXKcQ/w-d-xo.html

    • @chefbink61
      @chefbink61 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah the Adonstar seems to be pretty good, but at its $$ you can pick up a Swift S41-20 which is a pretty good binocular scope. SDG did a review on it if you want to take a look. th-cam.com/video/0hHRV0wV34E/w-d-xo.html

  • @GeekMustHave
    @GeekMustHave 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Forgive me for asking but what's the difference between a zero-ohm resistor and a jumper? I should probably know but I don't.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Note much difference really, the 0 Ohm resistor will act a bit like a fuse though if they are overloaded. They are used really just to make it easier to assemble by PnP machine.

    • @GeekMustHave
      @GeekMustHave 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TheDefpom Thank you, that makes perfect sense.

  • @zk_6312
    @zk_6312 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Why not just bridge the pads with solder instead of putting in 0 ohm resistors.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@zk_6312 solder bridges can be unreliable if the unit is exposed to vibration, yes you can do it, but I didn’t want the display to crap out at a random time in the future.

  • @mikebetz42
    @mikebetz42 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Solder blob would of worked as well as the 0 ohm jumper.

    • @TheDefpom
      @TheDefpom  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The gap between the pads was a bit big for that really.