Great video and never thought of that of using a skewer for uncoupling. I've put this on my "TO DO" list 😂 Thanks again Ron and hope all is well your way! Cheers from Laurel, Delaware
Silly question... what is it exactly that you are doing with the point? As in how do you get the couplers apart? I tried to get my freight cars apart but failed.
I was wondering the same - something flat actually works better to put between the couplers and twist to uncouple them. Not sure how something round would work.
Those dudes are Dooby Doo Cool Ron but for me I'd probably add a Vinal Red Vacume Cap bought at Autoparts house they'd fit snug as does the Wire Nut 🥜 but I'm Partial to Red 😊 Take Care & the Rain is dropping Around us here Kansas Nice & Soaking Allen D
Super. My railroad currently has eight different types of couplers in use. Kadee knuckle and radial knuckle couplers, X2-f hornhook and factory made radial X2-f hornhook couplers, factory made link and pin, Maerklin Relex, Proto 2000, dummy knuckle, four fully functional (Factory applied) european screw couplings, (I don't uncouple these much. Crane car + one boom car and one work caboose with Kadees on the other ends.) and the Mantua loop coupler. (+ one small chain with hooks on both ends. I can couple to any HO rolling stock in the world. Bwahahaha.) I even have a railroad track junction that has three different types of electrically operated uncouplers, none of which will operate or uncouple any other coupler in use on my pike except their own. I may also have the only Kadee knuckle to Maerklin Relex coupler conversion Train Miniature boxcar in the world, as well as the only two coupler conversion Athearn tank cars EVER that have a Kadee radial knuckle coupler on one end, and an X2-f hornhook radial coupler on the other end. (Took the dealer three weeks to convert each of the two tank cars, and longer on the SW-7s.) It was his thing, (Thanks Bob at Mizell's Trains, and the Caboose Hobbies guys, your handywork lives on 30 years later. I'm glad that I found you. $120.00 spent on 12 radial coupler conversions over two years, when Athearn SW-7s were $12.99 each, was incredibly expensive, but well worth it. It would easily be $100.00 per car to get that done now.) The X2-f radial couplers are factory made and mounted on Athearn Bluebox SW-7 cow and calf units, two boxcars, two tank cars, and one flatcar thanks to my local hobby shop, ($10.00 per coupler, any mount. I spent more on couplers than on rolling stock.) and allow my railroad to follow the trolley track to the sugar mill. (4 3/4 inch radius curved paved trolley trackage.) However, the twenty six 34 foot beet hoppers, three 40 foot gondolas, one 40 foot stock car and a couple of the railroads cabooses have Kadee radial knuckle couplers.) This makes for some interesting operation, and even a little mirth and intelligence questioning coming at the expense of the General Manager, (Me) the car repair shop, (Me) the locomotive repair shop, (Me) and the parts acquisition and accounting office. (Me) Model railroading is fun. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
True! Been using them for decades. I like the addition of the plastic wire nut.
Great video and never thought of that of using a skewer for uncoupling. I've put this on my "TO DO" list 😂
Thanks again Ron and hope all is well your way! Cheers from Laurel, Delaware
I also painted mine orange so you don't lose them
Hey, Joe. Yes, they do hide from you otherwise. 👍🏼👍🏼
Absolutely BRILLIANT!
I find that a Phillips head Jewelers screwdriver works the best for me, and it works well in both HO and N scale.
Nice trick with the wire nut Ron!
Silly question... what is it exactly that you are doing with the point? As in how do you get the couplers apart?
I tried to get my freight cars apart but failed.
I was wondering the same - something flat actually works better to put between the couplers and twist to uncouple them. Not sure how something round would work.
You def have to twist. But I use a small Phillips or flat head screw driver
You still insert between the couplers and twist. Friction does the trick with these.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thanks Ron.
Those dudes are Dooby Doo Cool Ron but for me I'd probably add a Vinal Red Vacume Cap bought at Autoparts house they'd fit snug as does the Wire Nut 🥜 but I'm Partial to Red 😊
Take Care & the Rain is dropping Around us here Kansas Nice & Soaking Allen D
Nice video 😊
Good idea👍🏼
Perfect, thanks Ron! Dollar Store here I come….
Any large-scale grocery store sell skewers at any home improvement hardware store sells wire nuts
Thanks for the tip, but should have told us where we could get bamboo skewers and wire nuts.
Nice tip!
I've got mine wrapped with a bit of bright orange tape, but the wire nut is a great idea
The cap is a great idea.
Neat info!
Simple and good! 😊
Thats awesome
Personally I use dentistry equipment!
What about the Micro-Trains in track magnetic uncouplers? Do people use those?
I use a combo of electro magnets and permanent magnets, if that qualifies?
Some people do, but they are not my preference.
Toothpicks could work too?
What are some other options aswell?
Rix uncoupling tools
Wait! What? You’re not supposed to just rip them apart or pick up the car you want to uncouple? Lol. Nice tip, Ron.
HO guys use these all the time it is the devil to get them durn couplers apart. The best is the Rix Pick with the spade end.
Yes, but the are costly and prone to break easily.
Super. My railroad currently has eight different types of couplers in use. Kadee knuckle and radial knuckle couplers, X2-f hornhook and factory made radial X2-f hornhook couplers, factory made link and pin, Maerklin Relex, Proto 2000, dummy knuckle, four fully functional (Factory applied) european screw couplings, (I don't uncouple these much. Crane car + one boom car and one work caboose with Kadees on the other ends.) and the Mantua loop coupler. (+ one small chain with hooks on both ends. I can couple to any HO rolling stock in the world. Bwahahaha.) I even have a railroad track junction that has three different types of electrically operated uncouplers, none of which will operate or uncouple any other coupler in use on my pike except their own. I may also have the only Kadee knuckle to Maerklin Relex coupler conversion Train Miniature boxcar in the world, as well as the only two coupler conversion Athearn tank cars EVER that have a Kadee radial knuckle coupler on one end, and an X2-f hornhook radial coupler on the other end. (Took the dealer three weeks to convert each of the two tank cars, and longer on the SW-7s.) It was his thing, (Thanks Bob at Mizell's Trains, and the Caboose Hobbies guys, your handywork lives on 30 years later. I'm glad that I found you. $120.00 spent on 12 radial coupler conversions over two years, when Athearn SW-7s were $12.99 each, was incredibly expensive, but well worth it. It would easily be $100.00 per car to get that done now.) The X2-f radial couplers are factory made and mounted on Athearn Bluebox SW-7 cow and calf units, two boxcars, two tank cars, and one flatcar thanks to my local hobby shop, ($10.00 per coupler, any mount. I spent more on couplers than on rolling stock.) and allow my railroad to follow the trolley track to the sugar mill. (4 3/4 inch radius curved paved trolley trackage.) However, the twenty six 34 foot beet hoppers, three 40 foot gondolas, one 40 foot stock car and a couple of the railroads cabooses have Kadee radial knuckle couplers.) This makes for some interesting operation, and even a little mirth and intelligence questioning coming at the expense of the General Manager, (Me) the car repair shop, (Me) the locomotive repair shop, (Me) and the parts acquisition and accounting office. (Me) Model railroading is fun. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
how did you just screw it on there's no thread or anything
Th inside of the wire nut is a spring designed to screw into electrical wire. It grabs the skewer and screws into it, no threads needed.
@@RonsTrainsNThings oh lol
Nah use a wago connector 😂
Ha, lets see you actually do a uncoupling.