Based on your voice and expert advise that can only come from years of experience, I could have sworn you were a 70+ year gentleman, retired from being a master machinist for the RAF :-) I then see you on video and you are very young. Whatever method of learning you're using to gain your experience, keep it up, we're all benefiting from it.
You are doing a great job of showing the planning and steps needed to get a smooth running loco. I have started a pacific 4-6-2 locomotive from the early Fit Discover Live Steam magazines. I can't tell you how helpful these videos are to me. Thank you very much. Larry Ogle
Congratulations for winning the "What's In Your Box" sponsored by Keith Fenner of Turn Wright Machine Works. You are quite a talent and I wish you the best as you pursue this noble trade. Keep the "Old Way" alive. CNC has its place but it's like using a calculator to do all the math. Good Luck.
Hello MrCrispin, you do excellent work. Your attention to detail is wonderful. I'll be looking forward to future progress on your locomotive project. Congrats. on winning Keith Fenner's tool giveaway too.
Gary Ramsey Thanks, that joke came from the RR training school, every time an apprentice said 'repeat' or 'repetition' or 'repetitive' certain instructors would say 'what was that sorry?' or 'pardon?' - pretending not to hear and seeing how many times they could get the apprentice to repeat them self's!
NICE JOB! You are quite adept with those hand tools too. You are very good at explaining things--keep it up. In America, we call those gages---GAGE BLOCKS--or sometimes JO BLOCKS. For the wonderful SWEDE by the name of Johansson who developed them.
mrpete222 Thank you very much. Yes I remember in your sine bar video you referred to gauge blocks. Interesting to hear the history of the name, I have never heard them called any thing except slip gauges or slips over here.
Nice video as usual. Before seeing your video for What's in Your Box I didn't even realize that building small ride-on locomotives was a hobby. I'm looking forward to seeing you fabricate and assemble this thing.
*LOVE* the Health and Safety demo in the video, and the cork at the end of the file. Awesome! :) I also love your craftsmanship and attention to detail, so you have earned yourself another subscriber! Keep up the excellent work and show them that good stuff *CAN* be made by men in sheds! ;)
Hello Mr Crispin, I admire your skill and your beautifully appointed workshop. I make model trains too, though mostly by eye and to far cruder tolerances. you have an incredible amount of work to do before this engine moves an inch under its own power, but it will be worth it. I, for one, am looking forward to the journey.
The HSE would be so proud 😂, on a serious note, I'm finding your locomotive construction videos extremely helpful, Im also a apprentice engineer, I've just started a project , I'm going to have a go at a 7 1/4 inch gauge Pannier tank locomotive, as a beginner with no experience in modal making, you can imagine how useful your video are. Cheers James
if you look at full size engines its why you use a split bearing and you pour and scrape the bearings to fit nice looking frame good bearings are easy to make keep reading and you will find the answers, just found you through Keith Grins
Evening Mr Crispin 🤠 How young you look on this video 🤣🤣 Absolutely fantastic video making and explaining the side frames and axle side blocks 👍🏻 Your wearing a COVID mask 😷 back then lol 😂 take care cheers Stevie 😎
Hi Crispin, New subscriber here from Tubalcain's plug, really enjoyed your videos - I'm only an "armchair machinist" but I enjoy watching and learning. I especially like the way you think "outside the box". Looking forward to future videos.
I do find all the handwork on the bearing blocks interesting the filing and fitting things by hand is just as important to learn as running a machine like a lathe Etc,
Thank you for another informative video! One suggestion I would make is to record your audio levels higher as you are a bit hard to hear. Keep up the great work!
david sanderson Hi. I removed it before I riveted them on, I just didn't get round to mention it in the previous video. If you look closely in part 1 the middle fabrication on each frame has the corner removed. I did it with a hack saw and mill.
10:15 I disagree - I'd be totally happy with a bit of stiffness. If you don't have to bray the axle boxes in with a hammer, they're loose enough. In use, they're really going to get hammered - and a month of running time they'll be free enough to fall out and still be an excellent fit.
8:40 Stack of 27·1mm - that's a mistake. You should have gone to 27·5mm and depending the result of that, either 27·7 or 27·3mm. Then, from there, use 0·1mm increments. This reduces the number of wasted measurements to a minimum.
Donner PartySupplies Thanks, yes I need to make sure the work I am carrying out does not present a hazard to all the other people working in that busy workshop.
I really think a more intelligent approach, would be to take the drawings, understand the features - and then reinvent them. For example, not use bronze bearings but replace them with roller bearings. Make the boiler either oil or gas fired. And many more tweaks like that.
13:49 Allowing the axle boxes to rock a little, is not the correct solution for this problem. One solution would be to have your bearing mounted in a ball, like seen here: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Cat_I_and_II_ball_closeup.jpg/1280px-Cat_I_and_II_ball_closeup.jpg
As you may be aware I am copying a steam locomotive. On traditional steam locomotives the axel boxes are designed to rock in the fashion I have shown. Cheers.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises "copying" - that's the mistake ! Start a new project - but no copying this time :) Steam powered loco to run on ?? gauge track. Maybe start with a 0-4-0. Gas fired. One control lever for speed - the position of which is compared with a governor and appropriately applies power or brakes ! I'm happy for you to rule out electronics but also happy for you to include some electric componentage.
I loved the response to the safety nazi Q, what you really need is a complete NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, CHEMICAL suit, just in case some post's a negative comment. This is brill,!!! keep it up.....
Nice to see you have hand skills, but what’s the point of having a milling machine when you destroy the fine finish the end mill created by filling. Hand filing inevitably leaves curved surfaces of at least 5 to 10 thou even from the best of us. Understandably you didn’t have a long enough End Mill to do the job as you said. try thinking outside the box and use a boring tool if you have one. Yet better still, post ‘a hard luck story’ as the likes of Abom97 who recently had views send in thousands of $ worth of tools to him in sympathy. :)
Mr. Crispin - when you feel safe, I feel safe. Thank you so much!
:)
Based on your voice and expert advise that can only come from years of experience, I could have sworn you were a 70+ year gentleman, retired from being a master machinist for the RAF :-) I then see you on video and you are very young. Whatever method of learning you're using to gain your experience, keep it up, we're all benefiting from it.
I am a late bloomer to your channel, but I am enjoying your build. Thanks for sharing.
Joe
It's great to see younger people getting involved with machining, keep up the good work.
ATB
Matt
Matthew Gischus Thanks
You are doing a great job of showing the planning and steps needed to get a smooth running loco. I have started a pacific 4-6-2 locomotive from the early Fit Discover Live Steam magazines. I can't tell you how helpful these videos are to me. Thank you very much.
Larry Ogle
Congratulations for winning the "What's In Your Box" sponsored by Keith Fenner of Turn Wright Machine Works. You are quite a talent and I wish you the best as you pursue this noble trade. Keep the "Old Way" alive. CNC has its place but it's like using a calculator to do all the math. Good Luck.
Rich206L Thanks
Hello MrCrispin, you do excellent work. Your attention to detail is wonderful. I'll be looking forward to future progress on your locomotive project. Congrats. on winning Keith Fenner's tool giveaway too.
Clever editing on the "repeat" ! Your doing some really nice work, enjoy seeing the level of detail your putting into this project.
Gary Ramsey Thanks, that joke came from the RR training school, every time an apprentice said 'repeat' or 'repetition' or 'repetitive' certain instructors would say 'what was that sorry?' or 'pardon?' - pretending not to hear and seeing how many times they could get the apprentice to repeat them self's!
NICE JOB! You are quite adept with those hand tools too. You are very good at explaining things--keep it up. In America, we call those gages---GAGE BLOCKS--or sometimes JO BLOCKS. For the wonderful SWEDE by the name of Johansson who developed them.
mrpete222 Thank you very much. Yes I remember in your sine bar video you referred to gauge blocks. Interesting to hear the history of the name, I have never heard them called any thing except slip gauges or slips over here.
Hey Crispin,
I agree more rock please! Look forward to watching your project develop.
All the best,
Tom
oxtoolco Thanks, Yes more filing required!
Another excellent video Crispin. Like the touch of humour.
Stephen Deakin Thanks, I try to make them enjoyable!
Nice video as usual. Before seeing your video for What's in Your Box I didn't even realize that building small ride-on locomotives was a hobby. I'm looking forward to seeing you fabricate and assemble this thing.
TheHouseBlog Thank you very much - yes it surprising what people can get up to in their back gardens!
Excellent video Crispin - very informative and enjoyable.
*LOVE* the Health and Safety demo in the video, and the cork at the end of the file. Awesome! :) I also love your craftsmanship and attention to detail, so you have earned yourself another subscriber! Keep up the excellent work and show them that good stuff *CAN* be made by men in sheds! ;)
I have enjoyed watching you develop.
It's taken a while!!
Hello Mr Crispin, I admire your skill and your beautifully appointed workshop. I make model trains too, though mostly by eye and to far cruder tolerances. you have an incredible amount of work to do before this engine moves an inch under its own power, but it will be worth it. I, for one, am looking forward to the journey.
Dr thrust, approves the quality workmanship 😉
Great job! I liked your little dig on the safety police....very funny.
The HSE would be so proud 😂, on a serious note, I'm finding your locomotive construction videos extremely helpful, Im also a apprentice engineer, I've just started a project , I'm going to have a go at a 7 1/4 inch gauge Pannier tank locomotive, as a beginner with no experience in modal making, you can imagine how useful your video are.
Cheers
James
Nice project and cool video style too. Enjoyed watching it. Thanks! Hope you will go to HD soon. Keep it up!
pitu72ger Thanks, I do all the filming on my iphone. I am no expert when it comes to filming. Perhaps it is time for an upgrade in equipment?
if you look at full size engines its why you use a split bearing and you pour and scrape the bearings to fit nice looking frame good bearings are easy to make keep reading and you will find the answers, just found you through Keith Grins
Hi Crispin
you should really have a full face visor, just in case those high speed filings hit your face!! lol Excellent video as usual.
Paul Reed Thanks, yes I really ought to do something about that potential hazard!
Evening Mr Crispin 🤠 How young you look on this video 🤣🤣 Absolutely fantastic video making and explaining the side frames and axle side blocks 👍🏻 Your wearing a COVID mask 😷 back then lol 😂 take care cheers Stevie 😎
Very nice work sir, had to visit after seeing you receive one of Keith Fenner's boxes. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the progress.
Hi Crispin, New subscriber here from Tubalcain's plug, really enjoyed your videos - I'm only an "armchair machinist" but I enjoy watching and learning. I especially like the way you think "outside the box". Looking forward to future videos.
I do find all the handwork on the bearing blocks interesting the filing and fitting things by hand is just as important to learn as running a machine like a lathe Etc,
A young looking lad.
Nice work young man
Tom Bellus Thank you
Thanks for posting your work on this project and I enjoy your work and your commentating! ;{)-----
Keith Fenner Thanks very much, your videos have had some influence of the way I show things i'm sure.
a good find Mr Fenner
Safety third. Well done.
nice work I am glad I watched your videos. I really like the set of tesa GAUGE Blocks
Andre Mausli Thanks, yes I like the TESA slip gauges allot.
You've got some real skill man! Were those Kevlar gloves? You can't be to careful with a sharp file...
JTZshokunin Thanks, no they were just rubber gloves, thats why i had fitted a cork to the end of the file!
Thank you for another informative video! One suggestion I would make is to record your audio levels higher as you are a bit hard to hear. Keep up the great work!
tzkelley Thanks, I am thinking about upgrading my camera. I currently use an iphone.
I see you are also subscribed to Colin Furze - he always wears his "safety tie" :) cheers, chuck
great work Crispin how did you cut away the horn block for boiler clearance did you have to remove it from the frames keep up the good work
david sanderson Hi. I removed it before I riveted them on, I just didn't get round to mention it in the previous video. If you look closely in part 1 the middle fabrication on each frame has the corner removed. I did it with a hack saw and mill.
14:45 You shouldn't have ear defenders on as they unnecessarily impair your hearing - a safety-critical sensory function.
10:15 I disagree - I'd be totally happy with a bit of stiffness. If you don't have to bray the axle boxes in with a hammer, they're loose enough. In use, they're really going to get hammered - and a month of running time they'll be free enough to fall out and still be an excellent fit.
8:40 Stack of 27·1mm - that's a mistake. You should have gone to 27·5mm and depending the result of that, either 27·7 or 27·3mm. Then, from there, use 0·1mm increments. This reduces the number of wasted measurements to a minimum.
keep going Crispin
MrToolsinbox Thank you
excelent video crispin , were is your hard hat !!!
Thanks. I think it was hidden under my high vis jacket, I must remember to out them both on in future.
Donner PartySupplies Thanks, yes I need to make sure the work I am carrying out does not present a hazard to all the other people working in that busy workshop.
I really think a more intelligent approach, would be to take the drawings, understand the features - and then reinvent them. For example, not use bronze bearings but replace them with roller bearings.
Make the boiler either oil or gas fired. And many more tweaks like that.
You'll have to show me how it's done then
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Please do tell me what your knowledge is as to what a 'live centre' is. It seems a lot of people get it wrong !
@@MrCrispinEnterprises That would be so much fun !
@@MrCrispinEnterprises If you can talk your employer into making road vehicles - with my modifications - we'll all be millionaires.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Arbor or mandrel - I can't distinguish between them !
13:49 Allowing the axle boxes to rock a little, is not the correct solution for this problem.
One solution would be to have your bearing mounted in a ball, like seen here: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/62/Cat_I_and_II_ball_closeup.jpg/1280px-Cat_I_and_II_ball_closeup.jpg
As you may be aware I am copying a steam locomotive. On traditional steam locomotives the axel boxes are designed to rock in the fashion I have shown. Cheers.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises "copying" - that's the mistake !
Start a new project - but no copying this time :)
Steam powered loco to run on ?? gauge track. Maybe start with a 0-4-0. Gas fired. One control lever for speed - the position of which is compared with a governor and appropriately applies power or brakes !
I'm happy for you to rule out electronics but also happy for you to include some electric componentage.
I loved the response to the safety nazi Q, what you really need is a complete NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, CHEMICAL suit, just in case some post's a negative comment. This is brill,!!! keep it up.....
dowserdude Thanks very much
Time to repeat
Nice to see you have hand skills, but what’s the point of having a milling machine when you destroy the fine finish the end mill created by filling. Hand filing inevitably leaves curved surfaces of at least 5 to 10 thou even from the best of us. Understandably you didn’t have a long enough End Mill to do the job as you said. try thinking outside the box and use a boring tool if you have one. Yet better still, post ‘a hard luck story’ as the likes of Abom97 who recently had views send in thousands of $ worth of tools to him in sympathy. :)