Excellent video. Some audio fade in a couple of places but didn't impair understanding. Great tip on using a bolt to knock loose the stubborn side. One other commenter remarked on your video angles and he was right: very well done one side back and forth. So many TH-cam auto videos skip critical disassembly. Your editing was excellent showing the entire procedure with great time efficiency for video length.
Pleasure to watch a good mechanic; a well thought through process, detail oriented and efficient, smart use of air and hand tools. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for making this video. Changed mine and although I changed the wrong side and have to do other side (oh well, new parts never hurt) this video helped me every step of the way. Ps. Having to beat on a rusted wheel bearing SUCKS
Thank you for the step by step how to. I'm getting ready to change mine on a 08' C. T & C. I'm expecting a bit more cursing, seeing how I live in Michigan and we love our salt on the roads!!
How did your bearing change go ? I think mine are bad and i live in michigan also. what noise did you have? what brand bearings did you go with? Thanks
@@The_Squad_1967, I started hearing a low humming at lower speeds that would get louder the faster I went. Also, periodically when it gets real cold I would hear a much louder hum (especially backing up) that would gradually go away. Just a little FYI, make sure you have at least one new brake rotor on hand as my driver's side was sooo rusted that it had become part of the hub!! I actually used it to my advantage as I removed the 4 bolts on the back of the hub and used the caliper mounting holes on the knuckle and a couple 1/2 x 4.5" grade 5 bolts, couple washers and double nuts as a press and pushed the hub, bearing and rotor all off at the same time. I used Mevotech's hub/bearing combo from RockAuto, (2 of them were 152.00 plus shipping ,7.99). All in all it wasn't to bad. Good luck!!
My 03 caravan and my 01 chrysler t&c both have splines that make it impossible to get either a socket or box end wrench on the 15mm bolts holding the bearing assembly on. I have watched several videos and none show transaxle with these splines on the outside end. Ideas?
I have a 08 town and country I m going to give it a shot. Never did this job before but I have to have faith and belive I can do it in Jesus Christ name.
How do you feel about putting in a Power Steering line filter? A good or bad idea? I'm going to be in the process of replacing the power steering & transmission lines (slight leakage) anyways?
How difficult is it to replace the front cross member (at the back of the motor), mine is rusting out and may be contributing to my CV axle problem? Thank you.
I would first check the area where your rear springs attach to the frame. They're known for rotting out there, making the car unsafe to drive on the road. It will be difficult to replace your front cross member even with the proper tools and a hoist. If it's that rusty hopefully all your bolts don't break as you try to remove them. So yes it's doable, it just depends on if the van is worth the time and effort.
I replaced my control arms (pre-assembled from Advanced Auto), Outer Tie Rod Ends, Sway Bar End Links, Struts again (Gabriel from RockAuto, under warranty) and ended up replacing the drivers side knuckle because it would not separate. Now, I'm getting the clicking sound (especially in reverse tuning the wheel left) that a bad CV Joint would make, I've replaced it twice in the last 2 months. I've also had a front end alignment. I'm not sure what is left to do??
Tough to say. I would check to make sure the sway bar links are properly tightened, and then I would check the bushings on the sway bar. If that's not it, maybe it's worth taking it in to have it properly diagnose, that way you're not chasing it for six months.
Apply plenty of lubricant and then you can put the nut back on the shaft making sure that it’s flush with the end of the shaft and then hit it with a hammer to hopefully break it loose. Make sure the nut is flush with the end of the shaft so you don’t screw up the threads. If you have air tools you can use an air hammer with a pointed tip to apply pressure to the center of the axle. Both ways have been very successful for me!
Excellent video. Some audio fade in a couple of places but didn't impair understanding.
Great tip on using a bolt to knock loose the stubborn side.
One other commenter remarked on your video angles and he was right: very well done one side back and forth.
So many TH-cam auto videos skip critical disassembly. Your editing was excellent showing the entire procedure with great time efficiency for video length.
Glad it helped!
Pleasure to watch a good mechanic; a well thought through process, detail oriented and efficient, smart use of air and hand tools. Thank you for sharing.
You’re welcome!
I used you tube to do my rear bearings on my Town and Country. But this video is much better , thanks . I like it when the socket sizes are given.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for making this video. Changed mine and although I changed the wrong side and have to do other side (oh well, new parts never hurt) this video helped me every step of the way. Ps. Having to beat on a rusted wheel bearing SUCKS
You're Welcome.
Thank you for the step by step how to. I'm getting ready to change mine on a 08' C. T & C. I'm expecting a bit more cursing, seeing how I live in Michigan and we love our salt on the roads!!
You're welcome. We're in the midwest as well, so I can relate to the rust!
How did your bearing change go ? I think mine are bad and i live in michigan also. what noise did you have? what brand bearings did you go with? Thanks
@@The_Squad_1967, I started hearing a low humming at lower speeds that would get louder the faster I went. Also, periodically when it gets real cold I would hear a much louder hum (especially backing up) that would gradually go away. Just a little FYI, make sure you have at least one new brake rotor on hand as my driver's side was sooo rusted that it had become part of the hub!! I actually used it to my advantage as I removed the 4 bolts on the back of the hub and used the caliper mounting holes on the knuckle and a couple 1/2 x 4.5" grade 5 bolts, couple washers and double nuts as a press and pushed the hub, bearing and rotor all off at the same time. I used Mevotech's hub/bearing combo from RockAuto, (2 of them were 152.00 plus shipping ,7.99). All in all it wasn't to bad. Good luck!!
@@wolfeee2426 Thank you
Did you replace the axle nut with a new one ?
Great video, Nice angles and explainations, om about to change one on my moms car, this will help alot, thanks for your effort! ☺️🙏
You’re welcome, glad it helped!
Much better than the first video about torging with your hands first and then a tourking
Man!! What an excellent video! Helped me out alot! Thank you! Liked and Subscribed!!!
Thank you! Glad it helped
the washer always behind the hub does that need to be put back on thin flat washer ?? thanks!
Yes it does!
My 03 caravan and my 01 chrysler t&c both have splines that make it impossible to get either a socket or box end wrench on the 15mm bolts holding the bearing assembly on. I have watched several videos and none show transaxle with these splines on the outside end. Ideas?
You have to have the correct extensions and sockets and push the spindles back to be able to access the 15mm that hold your wheel bearing on.
I have a 08 town and country I m going to give it a shot. Never did this job before but I have to have faith and belive I can do it in Jesus Christ name.
Good luck!
Nice video but there’s no rust on anything Is this from California or Arizona?
It's actually from the midwest!
Will this video work for my 2008 t&c ?
2008 they changed the body style, but the basic concept should be the same.
Well illustrated thanks
You’re welcome!
THANKS SO SO VERY MUCH 😊😊!!!
You’re welcome!
How do you feel about putting in a Power Steering line filter? A good or bad idea? I'm going to be in the process of replacing the power steering & transmission lines (slight leakage) anyways?
It's really not beneficial or needed , if it's not something that was actually engineered or suggested by the manufacturer I wouldn't recommend it.
@@TheAutoTeacher, okay, thanks.
How difficult is it to replace the front cross member (at the back of the motor), mine is rusting out and may be contributing to my CV axle problem? Thank you.
I would first check the area where your rear springs attach to the frame. They're known for rotting out there, making the car unsafe to drive on the road. It will be difficult to replace your front cross member even with the proper tools and a hoist. If it's that rusty hopefully all your bolts don't break as you try to remove them. So yes it's doable, it just depends on if the van is worth the time and effort.
@@TheAutoTeacher, thank you.
I replaced my control arms (pre-assembled from Advanced Auto), Outer Tie Rod Ends, Sway Bar End Links, Struts again (Gabriel from RockAuto, under warranty) and ended up replacing the drivers side knuckle because it would not separate. Now, I'm getting the clicking sound (especially in reverse tuning the wheel left) that a bad CV Joint would make, I've replaced it twice in the last 2 months. I've also had a front end alignment. I'm not sure what is left to do??
Did your control arms come with new ball joints?
@@TheAutoTeacher, yes, and new bushings.
Tough to say. I would check to make sure the sway bar links are properly tightened, and then I would check the bushings on the sway bar. If that's not it, maybe it's worth taking it in to have it properly diagnose, that way you're not chasing it for six months.
@@TheAutoTeacheryeah, I have a appointment Friday....tired of just throwing money at it.
The kit you used to clean the rust of the surface?
You can see what we used in the video description!
Good teacher i like it
Glad it helped!
Never new about the lube on the spindle
It helps if you need to take it apart down the road again
What do you do if the half shaft doesn’t push back?
Apply plenty of lubricant and then you can put the nut back on the shaft making sure that it’s flush with the end of the shaft and then hit it with a hammer to hopefully break it loose. Make sure the nut is flush with the end of the shaft so you don’t screw up the threads. If you have air tools you can use an air hammer with a pointed tip to apply pressure to the center of the axle. Both ways have been very successful for me!
Thanx
You’re welcome!
Awesome!
Thanks for watching!
I change my left front wheel bearings and it is still shaking someone told me I have to bounce the tire
Check the tire pressure, next check for broken belts or tire imperfections. If everything checks out have the tire balanced.
How nm moment
Sorry, not sure what you mean.
@@TheAutoTeacher how torque Newton meter 🤭😀bearing
It’d be about 183 NM
@@TheAutoTeacher thanx 👍👊😀