Loved my Strike Slider FG, and the only reason I stopped using it on my belay loop was the aluminium. Steel is essential, and the Bulletproof construction also keeps the weight down.
On 1:49 you said about the flat side helping to mantain the carabiner position on guide mode. I´m searching this right now to choose if I buy the FG on not. There is a recomendation that the carabiner passes on the inside of the Jul to prevent the rope twisting, and on this position the rope will run on the carabiner´s spine, not the steel-reinforced region. Is it possible to use the FG this way? Is it necessary? Could I use, as I understood what you said, on the steel-reinforced region?
i tried the last slide gate problem with the older version was when using it with grigri or lifeguard the device could fairly easily slide down the biner unlocking the slide gate and slide off the gate - maybe the plastic piece would prevent fully unlocking but as for me mine is now used to rack my nuts
I agree, I personally would not using the Sliders with a Grigri or similar device for the very reason you mention. But I absolutely love them when using a tube-style device like the MegaJul. -Andreas
Damn when I saw the straighter top of the biner I thought it would make it perfect for a Grigri. But the sliding mech. really makes me not wanting to use this with my grigri
I don't trust those "auto-lockers", prefer screw locks always. Not as awkward to use, and they are SOLID when locked. Auto lockers get people comfy with bad habits, my buddy's autolocker got a bit of grit in that mechanism and now won't auto-lock. So we are back to checking on it, EXCEPT who knows how long it was doing that before I noticed that issue with it, and meanwhile he was belaying with basically a non-locking carabiner.
I would say that yes, auto lockers tend to breed complacency in people. Is that the carabiner's fault. I don't believe so. If your partner isn't checking his belay carabiner before belaying, that's user error, not carabiner error, unless you can't get it to lock when it is checked. That's just my hot take on the idea that certain pieces of gear "cause" people to not use the equipment correctly.
@@WeighMyRack He SHOULD be checking but the whole reason he bought the auto locker is to not have to worry about remembering to lock it. It sort of is a self defeating premise. It doesn't take much grit in the mechanism for them to stop fully auto locking again imo.
I'm sure some one will demonstrate how to open the gate with a rope and deem it unsafe as a belay carabiner. Same goes for the other twist lock carabiner, they are not allowed for that reason in our local climbing hall.. The only approved carabiner is the Belaymaster but that's incompatible with the Jul line up. A shame because the seem are very smooth and strong devices..
For climbing purposes, once you get beyond the minimum major axis strength requirements for certification, it's going to be virtually impossible to break a carabiner. So from a pure climbing perspective, whether a carabiner is rated to 20kN or 100kN has no real impact on the safety of your system. There are items in your system that will fail long before a 20kN load is reached - including your back. There are quite a number of tests people have done to determine the max loads that are realistically experienced in a very harsh fall and I have never seen a scenario where any of the forces applied to system, whether at the belay, the gear placement, or the climber exceeds 8kN. Now the minor axis and open gate ratings are actually much more critical in my opinion. That's my 2 cents. -Andreas
Strange to see this be belay specific as a slide lock only as slide locks are scarcely a two stage carabiner, and for belay use as the sole attachment point in the system which can be hard to monitor both screw or three stage would seem more secure. Do like my slide lock for gym belays, and thought the previous design was fine without the plastic which seems less ecologically friendly, but the slide lock is easy to unlock without effort, I have done this doing safety checks to show they are locked.
Everyone seems to have their own level of what they consider to be an acceptable level of security when it comes to locking carabiners. Some people refuse to use anything other than three stage auto lockers, while many others feel very comfortable using any of the other less secure options available. Personally, I feel more comfortable using a slidelock than a screw gate. I've had numerous screw gates come unlocked while belaying. It's rare, yes. And although I know it is possible for a slidelock to come unlocked, I've personally never experienced it and feel more secure with its autolocking that if/when it does unlock, it will relock. That's my opinion. And I have no doubt that many more experienced climbers would argue that I'm wrong about this. Just thought I'd throw out my 2 cents on the subject of using the slider as belay carabiner. -Andreas
@@WeighMyRack I essentially agree, as said I use the slide lock with belay gate in the gym, I just find this choice strange of being only in a slide lock rather than as an option. As long as the carabiner has some locking mechanism I would never think twice, I’ve just found it funny doing safety checks in new gyms and unlocking my slide lock in front of a staff member and having to assure them of the safety.
That's why for me the best belay carabiner is the DMM Belay Master, very simple design, very easy to see when it's not locked properly, once locked the plastic part makes it impossible for the gate to unscrew.
@@WeighMyRack I had a slider HMS with the belay keeper that I used for multipitch climbing for about a year, long enough to get used to it and hopefully trust it but ultimately it still made me uncomfortable as the only attachment point for the people I was belaying, especially as a hard leader fall can cause belay devices and carabiners to interact in violent ways. I stopped using it for belaying as I still had a bit of distrust lingering. Now I use it to hang my shoes on my backpack on the approach so they don't fall off. I've switched to the HMS bulletproof triple action for use with the Gigajul now.
I love how ignorant the "ECO" people are about how things get made..Whatever methods that were used to get the metals in the first place will cause the most ECO damage...A little bit of a specific salt and water with a certain amount of voltage passed through the carabiner will give you anodized aluminum or Titanium. If anything just say not anodizing it should keep the price point lower in the manufacturing process..Not much "ECO" about it.
While true the anodizing process is basically a nonissue environmentally, I imagine Edelrid is talking about the dyeing process via anodization which most folks think of when they hear anodizing. These do have a finishing process to them, and I would be surprised if this weren’t just anodization sans the dye.
Loved my Strike Slider FG, and the only reason I stopped using it on my belay loop was the aluminium. Steel is essential, and the Bulletproof construction also keeps the weight down.
A carabiner that lasts forever to be eco friendly with a closing mechanism that is prone to breaking. I like this humor.
On 1:49 you said about the flat side helping to mantain the carabiner position on guide mode. I´m searching this right now to choose if I buy the FG on not. There is a recomendation that the carabiner passes on the inside of the Jul to prevent the rope twisting, and on this position the rope will run on the carabiner´s spine, not the steel-reinforced region. Is it possible to use the FG this way? Is it necessary? Could I use, as I understood what you said, on the steel-reinforced region?
Now i am just wondering whether the anti rotation snapper makes the gate harder to open, kinda looks like that.
i tried the last slide gate problem with the older version was when using it with grigri or lifeguard the device could fairly easily slide down the biner unlocking the slide gate and slide off the gate - maybe the plastic piece would prevent fully unlocking but as for me mine is now used to rack my nuts
I agree, I personally would not using the Sliders with a Grigri or similar device for the very reason you mention. But I absolutely love them when using a tube-style device like the MegaJul.
-Andreas
Damn when I saw the straighter top of the biner I thought it would make it perfect for a Grigri. But the sliding mech. really makes me not wanting to use this with my grigri
I don't trust those "auto-lockers", prefer screw locks always. Not as awkward to use, and they are SOLID when locked. Auto lockers get people comfy with bad habits, my buddy's autolocker got a bit of grit in that mechanism and now won't auto-lock. So we are back to checking on it, EXCEPT who knows how long it was doing that before I noticed that issue with it, and meanwhile he was belaying with basically a non-locking carabiner.
I would say that yes, auto lockers tend to breed complacency in people. Is that the carabiner's fault. I don't believe so. If your partner isn't checking his belay carabiner before belaying, that's user error, not carabiner error, unless you can't get it to lock when it is checked. That's just my hot take on the idea that certain pieces of gear "cause" people to not use the equipment correctly.
@@WeighMyRack He SHOULD be checking but the whole reason he bought the auto locker is to not have to worry about remembering to lock it. It sort of is a self defeating premise. It doesn't take much grit in the mechanism for them to stop fully auto locking again imo.
I'm sure some one will demonstrate how to open the gate with a rope and deem it unsafe as a belay carabiner. Same goes for the other twist lock carabiner, they are not allowed for that reason in our local climbing hall.. The only approved carabiner is the Belaymaster but that's incompatible with the Jul line up. A shame because the seem are very smooth and strong devices..
Instead of “eco” why don’t they just advertise as “more profit margin”
The major axis strength hasn't been mentioned, where the new one resists to 20kN and the older model resists to 25kn.
For climbing purposes, once you get beyond the minimum major axis strength requirements for certification, it's going to be virtually impossible to break a carabiner. So from a pure climbing perspective, whether a carabiner is rated to 20kN or 100kN has no real impact on the safety of your system. There are items in your system that will fail long before a 20kN load is reached - including your back. There are quite a number of tests people have done to determine the max loads that are realistically experienced in a very harsh fall and I have never seen a scenario where any of the forces applied to system, whether at the belay, the gear placement, or the climber exceeds 8kN. Now the minor axis and open gate ratings are actually much more critical in my opinion. That's my 2 cents.
-Andreas
Strange to see this be belay specific as a slide lock only as slide locks are scarcely a two stage carabiner, and for belay use as the sole attachment point in the system which can be hard to monitor both screw or three stage would seem more secure. Do like my slide lock for gym belays, and thought the previous design was fine without the plastic which seems less ecologically friendly, but the slide lock is easy to unlock without effort, I have done this doing safety checks to show they are locked.
Everyone seems to have their own level of what they consider to be an acceptable level of security when it comes to locking carabiners. Some people refuse to use anything other than three stage auto lockers, while many others feel very comfortable using any of the other less secure options available. Personally, I feel more comfortable using a slidelock than a screw gate. I've had numerous screw gates come unlocked while belaying. It's rare, yes. And although I know it is possible for a slidelock to come unlocked, I've personally never experienced it and feel more secure with its autolocking that if/when it does unlock, it will relock. That's my opinion. And I have no doubt that many more experienced climbers would argue that I'm wrong about this. Just thought I'd throw out my 2 cents on the subject of using the slider as belay carabiner.
-Andreas
@@WeighMyRack I essentially agree, as said I use the slide lock with belay gate in the gym, I just find this choice strange of being only in a slide lock rather than as an option. As long as the carabiner has some locking mechanism I would never think twice, I’ve just found it funny doing safety checks in new gyms and unlocking my slide lock in front of a staff member and having to assure them of the safety.
That's why for me the best belay carabiner is the DMM Belay Master, very simple design, very easy to see when it's not locked properly, once locked the plastic part makes it impossible for the gate to unscrew.
@@WeighMyRack I had a slider HMS with the belay keeper that I used for multipitch climbing for about a year, long enough to get used to it and hopefully trust it but ultimately it still made me uncomfortable as the only attachment point for the people I was belaying, especially as a hard leader fall can cause belay devices and carabiners to interact in violent ways. I stopped using it for belaying as I still had a bit of distrust lingering. Now I use it to hang my shoes on my backpack on the approach so they don't fall off. I've switched to the HMS bulletproof triple action for use with the Gigajul now.
Grivel clepsydra S is espacially made for belay devices like grigri, very Good
Leave some bling out and you can call it "eco". Win win. Good design though.
WTF is that price
I love how ignorant the "ECO" people are about how things get made..Whatever methods that were used to get the metals in the first place will cause the most ECO damage...A little bit of a specific salt and water with a certain amount of voltage passed through the carabiner will give you anodized aluminum or Titanium. If anything just say not anodizing it should keep the price point lower in the manufacturing process..Not much "ECO" about it.
While true the anodizing process is basically a nonissue environmentally, I imagine Edelrid is talking about the dyeing process via anodization which most folks think of when they hear anodizing. These do have a finishing process to them, and I would be surprised if this weren’t just anodization sans the dye.
@@zacharylaschober That definitley makes more sense. They do have extremely bright and smooth colors.