17th May is the deadline for pulling out of the event so someone else has time to get their car ready, which is fair. It is now the 13th which is why I am pushing hard right now! Would be good to drive 3 feet forward and 3 feet back, without overheating, before the 17th, but it will be close.
Supposedly soldered joints will brake overtime of exposed to the vibration of a car. But i crimp and solder mine with a high grade leader solder so they should be fine.
I usually support the wire somehow a few cm from the joint/connector so the whole weight of the wire is not on the connector and it does not flap about which presumably would fatigue the metal strands eventually.
A properly crimped connection shouldn't need soldering. Guides for military and aerospace wiring usually forbid doing that. You also shouldn't tin wires before crimping. If you do the crimp starts tight but then the solder 'creeps' over time and it can come loose. Also tinning causes solder to move up the wire into the insultation through capillary action causing a stress point at which the wire can break. But to get a good crimp you need decent connectors and the correct crimping tool and those aren't cheap unfortunately. A good crimp is actually a mechanical weld so should be perfectly reliable over time. Of course we aren't building spacecraft or military jets so usually we get away with slightly dodgy practices! Have you tried your electronics with the engine running yet to check for interference?
Looking forward to watching this. But for now: great video description, John!
Very cool to see those antique gauge come to life. Are you starting on the wiring then? Maybe a engine start soon?
17th May is the deadline for pulling out of the event so someone else has time to get their car ready, which is fair. It is now the 13th which is why I am pushing hard right now! Would be good to drive 3 feet forward and 3 feet back, without overheating, before the 17th, but it will be close.
@@XenonJohnD good luck! I'm sure you can make it happen
Supposedly soldered joints will brake overtime of exposed to the vibration of a car. But i crimp and solder mine with a high grade leader solder so they should be fine.
I usually support the wire somehow a few cm from the joint/connector so the whole weight of the wire is not on the connector and it does not flap about which presumably would fatigue the metal strands eventually.
A properly crimped connection shouldn't need soldering. Guides for military and aerospace wiring usually forbid doing that. You also shouldn't tin wires before crimping. If you do the crimp starts tight but then the solder 'creeps' over time and it can come loose. Also tinning causes solder to move up the wire into the insultation through capillary action causing a stress point at which the wire can break. But to get a good crimp you need decent connectors and the correct crimping tool and those aren't cheap unfortunately. A good crimp is actually a mechanical weld so should be perfectly reliable over time. Of course we aren't building spacecraft or military jets so usually we get away with slightly dodgy practices! Have you tried your electronics with the engine running yet to check for interference?
Not yet but wiring up ignition system is coming fairly soon......