I’m glad you made this video. After replacing the discs and springs in my clutch, it wouldn’t disengage . I thought I had done something wrong until I watched this and saw that you took up all the slack in the cable afterwards, so I did that and the clutch worked like it’s supposed to again. Thanks.
I was wondering... since the clutch was out, how come you didn't go ahead and remove the clutch basket to access and upgrade those notoriously troublesome, neutral sending unit bolts (if you haven't already)? Overall, it looks like you did a good job to me. "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
Kentucky Justice they fixed the problem in like 2012 or 13 or something( you should check the year). Mine being newer (2015) I was told it isn’t an issue anymore.
@@FcDominick Yeah, that makes sense. My DR is a 2011, so you can see why I mentioned that. Thanks for straightening me out. I either didn't know, or forgot about the factory fix. Thanks again.
Just got this bike as my first bike with only 3k mi. Burnt clutch soo bad that part of a friction plate fused together with the pressure plate and the rest of it shattered inside. The oil had 900 mi and when i drained it, it smelled really bad, dark brown and you could hear bits of metal falling out. All discs were black and pressure plate warped. Just....wow.
I've got 3500 miles on my dr, not driving hard, but I'm a big guy. Thank you for documenting this process. Side question what tires are you running and do you recommend them?
linebacker it's the weight, I have a friend that has a 2014 with roughy the same miles as you. He needs a clutch also. He's also bigger and travels with gear. It'll do it. I beat the ever living snot out of my bike and it makes way more power then stock. I run mefo tires. There 50/50s this is my second set and I'll be ordering set 3 soon. I have a guy that imports them from Germany to me. There last pretty good. Hang on the street in the back roads and handles are muddy rocky terrain. Not the best for loose coal/sand in my opinion
I'm tearing my clutch apart and I was just wondering if the thing you called a friction washer is completely flat or is mine supposed the be pushed outward almost like a cone shape. It's #14 in the clutch parts breakdown.
@@FcDominick thanks man, I'm about to put it all back together once my new gasket comes in and just wasn't sure based on the drawing if that was normal :p
I’m glad you made this video. After replacing the discs and springs in my clutch, it wouldn’t disengage . I thought I had done something wrong until I watched this and saw that you took up all the slack in the cable afterwards, so I did that and the clutch worked like it’s supposed to again. Thanks.
I was wondering... since the clutch was out, how come you didn't go ahead and remove the clutch basket to access and upgrade those notoriously troublesome, neutral sending unit bolts (if you haven't already)? Overall, it looks like you did a good job to me. "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
Kentucky Justice they fixed the problem in like 2012 or 13 or something( you should check the year). Mine being newer (2015) I was told it isn’t an issue anymore.
Thanks for the positive feedback
@@FcDominick Yeah, that makes sense. My DR is a 2011, so you can see why I mentioned that. Thanks for straightening me out. I either didn't know, or forgot about the factory fix. Thanks again.
Just got this bike as my first bike with only 3k mi. Burnt clutch soo bad that part of a friction plate fused together with the pressure plate and the rest of it shattered inside. The oil had 900 mi and when i drained it, it smelled really bad, dark brown and you could hear bits of metal falling out. All discs were black and pressure plate warped. Just....wow.
Josh G id get a lot of oem parts from the dealer to fix that. And flush out that motor. Who knows what’s in there
My bike makes a continuous clunking so after replacing the clutch. Can you tell me what I might have done wrong?
Is it really necessary to use torque wrench for all the screws? Plus is the procedure for DR600 similar? Thanks!
I've got 3500 miles on my dr, not driving hard, but I'm a big guy. Thank you for documenting this process. Side question what tires are you running and do you recommend them?
linebacker it's the weight, I have a friend that has a 2014 with roughy the same miles as you. He needs a clutch also. He's also bigger and travels with gear. It'll do it. I beat the ever living snot out of my bike and it makes way more power then stock. I run mefo tires. There 50/50s this is my second set and I'll be ordering set 3 soon. I have a guy that imports them from Germany to me. There last pretty good. Hang on the street in the back roads and handles are muddy rocky terrain. Not the best for loose coal/sand in my opinion
Are you using the correct oil? Car oils will make bike wet clutches slip.
I'm tearing my clutch apart and I was just wondering if the thing you called a friction washer is completely flat or is mine supposed the be pushed outward almost like a cone shape. It's #14 in the clutch parts breakdown.
Zaquiri its kinda cone shaped
@@FcDominick thanks man, I'm about to put it all back together once my new gasket comes in and just wasn't sure based on the drawing if that was normal :p
Burnt clutch