you know what? Your video is one of the biggest help of modelling in youtube, so many bad quality tutorials here, but your video is fantastic, so amazed, so real effects, i am breathless........................... Greets from Germany
bonjour..pourquoi privilégier un vernis satin pour l usage des fondus à l l'huile ?...serait ce pour que ça glisse juste comme il faut? la mat accrochant trop le brillant pas assez ? d avance merci pour votre réponse
Très beau travail mon ami et très beau modèle J adore ta vidéo c est un plaisir pour les yeux 😎👍 Je suis abonné de FRANCE Et je serai fier de t'avoir comme abonné aussi 👍 Very good work my friend and very nice model I enjoy watching your video this is a pleasure for the eyes 😎👍 I am subscribed of France And I would be proud to have you as subscriber too 👍
Very good video. One suggestion, would be nice if the camera is zoomed in more (even from time to time) so we can really see the techniques, the very minimal movements youre making - again video is very good as it is, but it can be great 😆 keep 'em coming pls.
on the paint you have what looks to be another colour as well as grey what colours dod you use on the actual kit. i am hopeless at weathering and getting the realistoc look on my builds
7 ปีที่แล้ว
For the F-4 I use Navy grey + white. See my other video for more details: th-cam.com/video/ScL9zQGbUdA/w-d-xo.html Thank you. Fred
may i ask, did you diluted oil paint or use it direct out of the bottle ? . Also, can i use this technique, but instead with white or cream, i use a lighter shade than the original colour ?
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Use it direct out of the bottle but very little quantity. Yes you can use another color but associate to the base color.
@ i try the technique, no matter how much feathering i try, i still found it leave some brushmark,but if i moist the brush with enamel thinner, it kind of wipe out everything and turn it more into oil dot weathering (the whole panel got even out and very thing trail of oil paint than this,) i wonder did i do some part wrong. Maybe i should use a newer without split tip brush
5 ปีที่แล้ว
@@hl1796 If there are traces of brush, it is either because the paint is of poor quality or not enough fat, or you use too much paint. Try with less paint by spreading it well. Maybe your surface is too bright. The base color must absolutely be satin. Neither matte nor bright, it's very important.
thanks again for great techniques this is going to help.me a lot i best start to practice on some old models tganks again kutgw looking forward to the next video
7 ปีที่แล้ว
Phazzer- 758 thank you very much for your comments. Happy that my videos helps you.
A great tutorial, so I only need to buy 2 tubes of oil for everything black and white right?
7 ปีที่แล้ว +9
It depends of the base color. No pure black. For shadows you can always use Sepia, VanDijk brown & sometimes dark blue (for green base). For lights, always associate the right color. Ex: for green camo, use yellow.. If you use white, result will be an awfull gray. In general, use the same tone but lighter (for dark blue base: light blue / for brown base: light brown, ocher, buff / for greens: yellow, ocher, light green / for sand and very light base: pure white or white+ocher / for gray: white).
Looks fantastic. I really like the inner section of the phantoms wing where it looks a bit mottled - did you achieve that with the oils or through another method?
7 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Lord Cheezus . Thank you. it's another technic. it's the mottling technic. see my other video for this.
Unexpectedly came across this video. Super. As for the tank, the highlighting is clear. It is white. And with what color did you work on the shadow on the sand?
3 ปีที่แล้ว
Thanks. For shadows you can use Van Dijk brown or brown umber or sepia.
hello frederic, great video and many congratulations on your fantastic technique and how to explain it. it is possible to use the same technique to highlight a bare metal aircraft panels (for example, a sabre)? Many thanks
7 ปีที่แล้ว
Thanks mauro t ! Metallics surfaces are very delicate. I never try the oil technique on it, I think oil paint risk to mask the metallic effect. My technique is: masking each panel and paint (airbrush ) with another metallic tone (lighter or darker) .
Thanks, great tutorial. Two questions: do you put oil paint on paper to remove linseed oil? Do you use white spirit thinner and in what (roughly) ratio?
7 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Thanks! Oil paint is used pure and apply with very small quantity.
I hope you are still active in youtube.. your videos are very helpful and great quality. How do you sequence your build for base paint, gloss coat, decals, oil shadow effects amd streaking effects? You said that the surface must be satin, but we usually gloss before decals. Also, if i did streaking or a wash, wouldnt it remove the oil shadowing? Lastly, what if my model is a green and grey camouflage aircraft? What colours do i use?
4 ปีที่แล้ว +2
Hi. Sorry for my late response. Here is a step by step: 1. white or grey primer on model. 2. Base color + modulation and mottling. Paint camouflage. Chipping. 3. Thin layer of gloss varnish. 4. Apply decals. Paint panel lines. 5. Layer of gloss varnish and sand it slightly to remove relief and dust. 6. Layer of satin varnish. 7. Apply some techniques: a.contrasts with oil paint, b. Filters, c. streaking, . Let's dry 48 hrs between each or apply a thin layer of satin varnish to win time. 8. If necessary, apply pigments. the end ! For grey camo, use black, white and grey colors. For green camo, use zinc chromate, yellow or light green (for lighten) and dark green for shadows. You can use many colors it will give more nuances. I recommend this book: F.A.Q. from Daniel Zamarbide (AK interactive) or Encyclopedia of aircraft modelling technique (Mig Jimenez / Diego Quijano)
Bonjour Frédéric, Quand vous étalez la peinture à l'huile, est-ce que vous la dilué avant de l'appliquer, si oui, avec quoi, de la térébenthine ou white spirit ? Je tente pour la première fois cette opération car j'adore l'effet que cela fait sur le char. C'est plus substile et l'effet est plus réel. Merci et beau travail.
7 ปีที่แล้ว
Bonjour Benoit. Le peinture est utilisée pure mais en très très faible quantité. Au final cela doit rester transparent et donc très subtil et fondu. Ensuite je vernis le travail (vernis satiné à brillant en fine couche, surtout pas du mate)afin de le protéger et pour appliquer les étapes suivantes de vieillissement.
Est ce que vous avez un verni en particulier que vous utilisez qui donne un meilleur résultat que d'autre? Je sais qu'en étant au Canada et vous en Europe que nous ayons pas les mêmes marques. Moi normalement j'emploie le Tamiya ou Vallejo. Je pense essayer les vernis pour les artistes que j'appliquerais avec le airbrush ? Qu'est ce que vous en pensé ? Merci pour les fabuleuses démonstrations. Cela m'aide énormément.
7 ปีที่แล้ว
Le tamiya ou Gunze sont très bien. Je pense que le Vallejo aussi mais je n'utilise pas celui là. Du moment que se soit acrylique c'est bien. Ne surtout pas trop charger. Très fine couche recommandée!
I know its been ages since this video was uploaded, however i would very much like to try this color modulation on an Abrams too! My question would be though, at which stage do you apply this oil fading? I can see that washes are already applied, but in my case i would like to achive other results as well by adding streakings and oild dot filter. Would you recommend to apply this after all the other weatherings or before washes, streakings and such?
3 ปีที่แล้ว +3
Thank you for your message. I apply this technique after washes and oil dot filters but before streakings. It remains discreet and can be seen by transparency. But you can try your own style. Previous steps must be very dry and you can apply a protective varnish before the oil color modulation.
Bonjour, Je voudrais d'avoir s'il est possible de faire la même chose avec et sur de la peinture acrylique ? Aussi, faut-il passer une couche de vernis avant de passer à la phase de vieillissement de l'appareil pour éviter de dégrader les couches d'en dessous ou cela n'est pas nécessaire ? Merci par avance pour votre réponse, Votre travail est juste magnifique !
7 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Merci. Ce travail est toujours fait sur une base acrylique (peinture ou vernis). L'acrylique est solide et supporte le white spirit des couleurs enamel et huile. Pour un résultat optimal et un bon étalage de la couleur, la base doit être satinée. Sur du brillant la couleur à l'huile va trop glisser et pas bien adhérer. Et sur du mat, elle va adhérer et faire d'horribles taches difficiles à récupérer, ce qui empêche d'avoir un beau dégradé.
Ah d'accord merci pour les explications ! Je ne savais pas que l'on pouvait mélanger les différents types de peinture comme ça, grâce à la couche de vernis ! Et à la place de la peinture à l'huile, est-ce que vous pensez qu'il est possible de faire du "Weathering" à base de peinture acrylique fortement diluée ? Parce que je ne dispose actuellement que de peintures acryliques et pas de peintures à l'huile.
7 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Pour faire certains jus, l'acrylique très dilué à l'eau fonctionne aussi. Mais les enamels et les huiles sont mieux car leur texture et composition grasse permet de s'étaler et glisser sur la surface. Pour les effets fondus de cette vidéo, impossible avec de l'acrylique, cela sèche trop vite. C'est l'un des avantages de l'huile c'est de pouvoir la "travailler" afin d'obtenir de beaux dégradés. Toujours bien laisser sécher au moins 24h pour qu'il ne reste plus que les pigments et éviter une réaction avec le vernis que l'on mettra ensuite. Concernant le mélange des types de peintures, il faut utiliser du vernis acrylique à condition d'avoir une base acrylique aussi. Car de l'acrylique sur des enamels = réaction catastrophique. Mais enamels sur acrylique pas de problème.
I am going to put out my oil paints on a paper towel to allow the linseed oil to be taken out,After the linseed oil is out what should i use to thin them?
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Don't put paint on paper towel. Use it pure. That's important. Use very small quantity of paint.
@ If I don't use paper towels to absorb the linseed oil out of the oil paint and paint a plastic model ship with it, it will take for ever to dry,beings the plastic will not absorb the linseed oil as paper will.If I use a dark grey as the finally coat what color should i use as a primer and advice on that.please
WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER TO VOICE NARRATE. TEXT IS DISTRACTING TO THE ACTUAL VISUALS. DROP THE MUSIC, WE ONLY CAME HERE FOR THE INFORMATION AND VISUALS......TWO THUMBS DOWN.
you know what? Your video is one of the biggest help of modelling in youtube, so many bad quality tutorials here, but your video is fantastic, so amazed, so real effects, i am breathless........................... Greets from Germany
why are you not making videos anymore. these are amazing. soooo good
Just beautiful work. I really like the use of oils for shading weathering instead of just doing washes.
Your videos are fantastisch! I would encourage you to make more.
Good 👍
simple , and down to the point, thank alot of the technique, it quite different from using oil dot and wipe most of it using thinner,
Thanks for posting the video. Great technique, very realistic!
Great video thanks for the ideas
beautiful work
Astonishing and extra helpful video !!!
Great Tutorial !!
Super! I just got me a pack of Abteilung 502 and was thinking "now what???" and came across your video. Thanks!!! :-)
Awesome work, very nice indeed !!!
THIS IS A BIG HELP! IS THE PLANE CLEARED BEFORE THE DECALS ARE ADDED, AND BEFORE THE HIGHLIGHTS TO THE PANELS ARE PAINTED WITH BRUSH? THANK YOU, TODD
Thanks ! Highlights are painted on SATIN base (color or varnish). Next: clear coat before AND after decals.
Superb masterpiece. Love that music.
Beautiful tutorial. Subed. =)
A fantastic work! I like and will try it. TOP!
😍😍😍😍
bonjour..pourquoi privilégier un vernis satin pour l usage des fondus à l l'huile ?...serait ce pour que ça glisse juste comme il faut? la mat accrochant trop le brillant pas assez ?
d avance merci pour votre réponse
Bonjour. Oui c'est exactement ça !
@
merci Frédéric...
bien à vous
Thanks for sharing!
Très beau travail mon ami et très beau modèle
J adore ta vidéo c est un plaisir pour les yeux 😎👍
Je suis abonné de FRANCE
Et je serai fier de t'avoir comme abonné aussi 👍
Very good work my friend and very nice model
I enjoy watching your video this is a pleasure for the eyes 😎👍
I am subscribed of France
And I would be proud to have you as subscriber too 👍
Excellent Tutorial! Thank you!
Very good video. One suggestion, would be nice if the camera is zoomed in more (even from time to time) so we can really see the techniques, the very minimal movements youre making - again video is very good as it is, but it can be great 😆 keep 'em coming pls.
on the paint you have what looks to be another colour as well as grey what colours dod you use on the actual kit. i am hopeless at weathering and getting the realistoc look on my builds
For the F-4 I use Navy grey + white. See my other video for more details: th-cam.com/video/ScL9zQGbUdA/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. Fred
may i ask, did you diluted oil paint or use it direct out of the bottle ? . Also, can i use this technique, but instead with white or cream, i use a lighter shade than the original colour ?
Use it direct out of the bottle but very little quantity. Yes you can use another color but associate to the base color.
@ i try the technique, no matter how much feathering i try, i still found it leave some brushmark,but if i moist the brush with enamel thinner, it kind of wipe out everything and turn it more into oil dot weathering (the whole panel got even out and very thing trail of oil paint than this,) i wonder did i do some part wrong. Maybe i should use a newer without split tip brush
@@hl1796 If there are traces of brush, it is either because the paint is of poor quality or not enough fat, or you use too much paint. Try with less paint by spreading it well. Maybe your surface is too bright. The base color must absolutely be satin. Neither matte nor bright, it's very important.
@ thank you, maybe because i put oil on paper to absorb all of the oil first before use
@@hl1796 that's it. Use oil paint pure.
Thanks for sharing.
This is how it should look like!
thanks again for great techniques this is going to help.me a lot i best start to practice on some old models tganks again kutgw looking forward to the next video
Phazzer- 758 thank you very much for your comments. Happy that my videos helps you.
Thanks. Great tutorial.
A great tutorial, so I only need to buy 2 tubes of oil for everything black and white right?
It depends of the base color. No pure black. For shadows you can always use Sepia, VanDijk brown & sometimes dark blue (for green base). For lights, always associate the right color. Ex: for green camo, use yellow.. If you use white, result will be an awfull gray.
In general, use the same tone but lighter (for dark blue base: light blue / for brown base: light
brown, ocher, buff / for greens: yellow, ocher, light green / for sand and very light base: pure white or white+ocher / for gray: white).
Looks fantastic. I really like the inner section of the phantoms wing where it looks a bit mottled - did you achieve that with the oils or through another method?
Lord Cheezus . Thank you. it's another technic. it's the mottling technic. see my other video for this.
Awesome! Thanks!
Very good and informative :)
Unexpectedly came across this video. Super. As for the tank, the highlighting is clear. It is white. And with what color did you work on the shadow on the sand?
Thanks. For shadows you can use Van Dijk brown or brown umber or sepia.
Thx. Great video.
im new for oil paint, did you use it straight from the tube or need to be thin a little bit with oil before applying to the model,, thanks
rio nugroho . Use straight from the tube but very little bit quantity. Blend it with brush.
thanks for the answer and the tutorial.. looking forward to build one..
J'oubliais, est ce que vous appliquez un sealant par la suite pour protéger le tout ?
hello frederic, great video and many congratulations on your fantastic technique and how to explain it.
it is possible to use the same technique to highlight a bare metal aircraft panels (for example, a sabre)?
Many thanks
Thanks mauro t ! Metallics surfaces are very delicate. I never try the oil technique on it, I think oil paint risk to mask the metallic effect.
My technique is: masking each panel and paint (airbrush ) with another metallic tone (lighter or darker) .
Thanks, great tutorial. Two questions: do you put oil paint on paper to remove linseed oil? Do you use white spirit thinner and in what (roughly) ratio?
Thanks! Oil paint is used pure and apply with very small quantity.
Frédéric Mertès thanks it works !!
You mentioned that, the oil weathering works best in semi-gloss surface, did you seal the model with matt varnish after the weathering ? thanks!
Yes I did
Anyone knows the name of background music? Excellent video by the way.
I hope you are still active in youtube.. your videos are very helpful and great quality.
How do you sequence your build for base paint, gloss coat, decals, oil shadow effects amd streaking effects?
You said that the surface must be satin, but we usually gloss before decals. Also, if i did streaking or a wash, wouldnt it remove the oil shadowing?
Lastly, what if my model is a green and grey camouflage aircraft? What colours do i use?
Hi. Sorry for my late response. Here is a step by step:
1. white or grey primer on model.
2. Base color + modulation and mottling. Paint camouflage. Chipping.
3. Thin layer of gloss varnish.
4. Apply decals. Paint panel lines.
5. Layer of gloss varnish and sand it slightly to remove relief and dust.
6. Layer of satin varnish.
7. Apply some techniques: a.contrasts with oil paint, b. Filters, c. streaking, . Let's dry 48 hrs between each or apply a thin layer of satin varnish to win time.
8. If necessary, apply pigments.
the end !
For grey camo, use black, white and grey colors. For green camo, use zinc chromate, yellow or light green (for lighten) and dark green for shadows. You can use many colors it will give more nuances.
I recommend this book: F.A.Q. from Daniel Zamarbide (AK interactive) or Encyclopedia of aircraft modelling technique (Mig Jimenez / Diego Quijano)
@ thank you for sharing. I hope you do more videos!
Bonjour Frédéric, Quand vous étalez la peinture à l'huile, est-ce que vous la dilué avant de l'appliquer, si oui, avec quoi, de la térébenthine ou white spirit ? Je tente pour la première fois cette opération car j'adore l'effet que cela fait sur le char. C'est plus substile et l'effet est plus réel. Merci et beau travail.
Bonjour Benoit. Le peinture est utilisée pure mais en très très faible quantité. Au final cela doit rester transparent et donc très subtil et fondu. Ensuite je vernis le travail (vernis satiné à brillant en fine couche, surtout pas du mate)afin de le protéger et pour appliquer les étapes suivantes de vieillissement.
Est ce que vous avez un verni en particulier que vous utilisez qui donne un meilleur résultat que d'autre?
Je sais qu'en étant au Canada et vous en Europe que nous ayons pas les mêmes marques.
Moi normalement j'emploie le Tamiya ou Vallejo. Je pense essayer les vernis pour les artistes que j'appliquerais avec le airbrush ? Qu'est ce que vous en pensé ?
Merci pour les fabuleuses démonstrations. Cela m'aide énormément.
Le tamiya ou Gunze sont très bien. Je pense que le Vallejo aussi mais je n'utilise pas celui là. Du moment que se soit acrylique c'est bien. Ne surtout pas trop charger. Très fine couche recommandée!
I know its been ages since this video was uploaded, however i would very much like to try this color modulation on an Abrams too! My question would be though, at which stage do you apply this oil fading? I can see that washes are already applied, but in my case i would like to achive other results as well by adding streakings and oild dot filter. Would you recommend to apply this after all the other weatherings or before washes, streakings and such?
Thank you for your message. I apply this technique after washes and oil dot filters but before streakings. It remains discreet and can be seen by transparency. But you can try your own style. Previous steps must be very dry and you can apply a protective varnish before the oil color modulation.
@ thank you very much for your answer! :)
its a shame you dont upload anymore.
What color would I use to lighten the panels on my Abrams. It's a Darker green.
For green colors, use yellow (cadmium) for lighten and raw umber for shadows.
Bonjour,
Je voudrais d'avoir s'il est possible de faire la même chose avec et sur de la peinture acrylique ? Aussi, faut-il passer une couche de vernis avant de passer à la phase de vieillissement de l'appareil pour éviter de dégrader les couches d'en dessous ou cela n'est pas nécessaire ?
Merci par avance pour votre réponse,
Votre travail est juste magnifique !
Merci. Ce travail est toujours fait sur une base acrylique (peinture ou vernis). L'acrylique est solide et supporte le white spirit des couleurs enamel et huile.
Pour un résultat optimal et un bon étalage de la couleur, la base doit être satinée. Sur du brillant la couleur à l'huile va trop glisser et pas bien adhérer. Et sur du mat, elle va adhérer et faire d'horribles taches difficiles à récupérer, ce qui empêche d'avoir un beau dégradé.
Ah d'accord merci pour les explications ! Je ne savais pas que l'on pouvait mélanger les différents types de peinture comme ça, grâce à la couche de vernis ! Et à la place de la peinture à l'huile, est-ce que vous pensez qu'il est possible de faire du "Weathering" à base de peinture acrylique fortement diluée ? Parce que je ne dispose actuellement que de peintures acryliques et pas de peintures à l'huile.
Pour faire certains jus, l'acrylique très dilué à l'eau fonctionne aussi. Mais les enamels et les huiles sont mieux car leur texture et composition grasse permet de s'étaler et glisser sur la surface. Pour les effets fondus de cette vidéo, impossible avec de l'acrylique, cela sèche trop vite. C'est l'un des avantages de l'huile c'est de pouvoir la "travailler" afin d'obtenir de beaux dégradés.
Toujours bien laisser sécher au moins 24h pour qu'il ne reste plus que les pigments et éviter une réaction avec le vernis que l'on mettra ensuite.
Concernant le mélange des types de peintures, il faut utiliser du vernis acrylique à condition d'avoir une base acrylique aussi. Car de l'acrylique sur des enamels = réaction catastrophique. Mais enamels sur acrylique pas de problème.
More videos please!!!
I am going to put out my oil paints on a paper towel to allow the linseed oil to be taken out,After the linseed oil is out what should i use to thin them?
Don't put paint on paper towel. Use it pure. That's important. Use very small quantity of paint.
@ If I don't use paper towels to absorb the linseed oil out of the oil paint and paint a plastic model ship with it, it will take for ever to dry,beings the plastic will not absorb the linseed oil as paper will.If I use a dark grey as the finally coat what color should i use as a primer and advice on that.please
did you use thinner?
No thinner. Use pure oil paint. Very small quantity.
@ thank you so much! Hope you are well!
Yeah but it doesn't show his he got final result
Is this with oilpaint ore wather acril paint,thanks for this video😏👍
Oil paint for contrast. Base colors of models are acrylics.
@ how long draing the paint?my english is not so good, sorry .
@@maartendeklein7420 24h
@ thanks👍
Mereci....
WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER TO VOICE NARRATE. TEXT IS DISTRACTING TO THE ACTUAL VISUALS. DROP THE MUSIC, WE ONLY CAME HERE FOR THE INFORMATION AND VISUALS......TWO THUMBS DOWN.