Have a small motorcycle 12 volt battery, which can be trickle charged off anything.. alternator. 24 to 12v..Solar charge hardwire it do not add anything else to the system, yes three way switch is good as sometimes water level won't turn float on so you can manually test system and empty bilge
Thanks, wondering about that as you said, most of the system is 24 volt and to run 12 volt either needs an investment in a converter to avoid flattening one battery or a separate system as you suggested...worthy of further investigation
I have fitted those automatic pumps in several boats in the last ten years and report no issues. In my opinion you don’t need any sort of switch. Just hard wire it to a battery and let it do its thing. The manual function is unnecessary if you think about it logically. The only check I do is the test knob on the pump to make sure it’s working from time to time but have had no failures to date. KISS. Keep it simple stupid.
I did wonder why we need a manual other than to quickly turn on to clear an bilge water but I guess the obvious things is if there was sufficient water in the bilge to need that then the float-automatic system should have dealt to it anyway...thanks for the advice
That is certainly my experience. I have two automatic pumps hard wired one forward and one aft and the biggest pump I could find on a manual switch so if I need to shift water all three will run independently giving me a fighting chance at least. I will be up your way at the end of of the month and would be interested to have a look at your project. Regards Peter.
Have a small motorcycle 12 volt battery, which can be trickle charged off anything.. alternator. 24 to 12v..Solar charge hardwire it do not add anything else to the system, yes three way switch is good as sometimes water level won't turn float on so you can manually test system and empty bilge
Thanks, wondering about that as you said, most of the system is 24 volt and to run 12 volt either needs an investment in a converter to avoid flattening one battery or a separate system as you suggested...worthy of further investigation
I have fitted those automatic pumps in several boats in the last ten years and report no issues. In my opinion you don’t need any sort of switch. Just hard wire it to a battery and let it do its thing. The manual function is unnecessary if you think about it logically.
The only check I do is the test knob on the pump to make sure it’s working from time to time but have had no failures to date.
KISS. Keep it simple stupid.
I did wonder why we need a manual other than to quickly turn on to clear an bilge water but I guess the obvious things is if there was sufficient water in the bilge to need that then the float-automatic system should have dealt to it anyway...thanks for the advice
That is certainly my experience. I have two automatic pumps hard wired one forward and one aft and the biggest pump I could find on a manual switch so if I need to shift water all three will run independently giving me a fighting chance at least. I will be up your way at the end of of the month and would be interested to have a look at your project.
Regards Peter.
Id go for all 12volt frew out ? KISS
Yes, maybe 24 volt as the engine starter, gauges, etc are all 24 volt currently but certainly agree about KISS