You took what is one of the more difficult, complex effects to duplicate and broke it down into logical (I won't say easy) steps. Excellent tutorial!!!
Andy, I want to thank you for all the time and effort you have put into making your videos. Not only have your videos helped me to improve my modeling skills and brought me a great deal of joy, but you have also helped me to get really excited and passionate about modelling again. Your videos are so enjoyable to watch and you have such a wonderful personality and way of going about things. You would be an awesome guy to have a beer with! Keep up the great work and I'm sure your channel will continue to grow and grow! PS. I bought one of your "mediocre modelling club" tshirts! Can't wait to get it.
You see in real life during an ammunition fire, it gets hot enough to warp steel, everything would be a total loss, the hull mg would be a loss, and the crew would be everywhere, they’d probably just seal it up and push it aside to make room for other tanks.
Hi Andy!!! Thx a lot for your wonderfull job! Let's have a thankfull remembrance to all the tankers killed in their tanks, especially in Normandy, victims of the hidden 88's. Here in France, we don't forget them. Thx again.
I have wanted to learn these tips for modeling. I am building trumpeter's Waffenträuger so this could be used to make some details mimicking combat damage.
Great guide Andy. I've scene this technique demonstrated in magazines and model technique books before, but its great to see you perform the finish in realtime as it makes the process much easier follow.
Other modeling channels use rediculous compared to this, with the same results. I'm glad I came to your channel, I've learned many methods from these videos. Many thanks from Montana, keep it up Andy!
Hi Andy, well you have done another piece of Master Modelling, this is fantastic. I have said before I look forward to all your videos, well done mate. Les
14:55: "Because the paint was burned up, it starts to rust up", the fire in itself will cause the tank rusting. Fire is a kind of fast oxidation, which is rusting.
I just heated up a brass round out the Tamyia flak 36 88 kit and picking the surrounding edges with my needle nose tweezers, I used the extra thin tamyia glue to kinda melt up n soften the edges then picked them out it looks great
Hi Andy, luv you work. I have noticed that you do not paint the tail lights on AFV's. Would the view ports on the commanders hatch have rust etc as they are made of glass.
Fantastic videos you make. Could you perhaps make the new takom sturmtiger with full interior? Loved your Tamiya, it was great inspiration for my own build
What type of sponge do you use for adding the effects? There's so many different densities just amongst normal household products. What is your "go-to" sponge please?
Hi Andy. First of all I wish to thank you for sharing such informative and great videos. I'm a very bigginer of using airbrush. (To be exect last monday it was the first time) Can you please tell me how much I need to set air pressure to paint with Valleyo air paint?. I need to change air pressure setting if I need to paint fine lines or bigger surface? Once again, thanks a lot.
I just bought a 350 scale trumpeter Roma model, I haven't done models in like 7 years, but it's coming along nicely. I want to do a diorama of her in dry dock, but no idea how or where to start.
Just rewatched this tutorial and I noticed a little inaccuracy in the explanation of the "real" effects: The tank is not only rusted by sitting out in the elements after burning, but also because of the burning itself. Burning in itself is just one form of oxidation (one of the more agressive ones), so just from the fire and heat, the metal will begin to rust as well. Of course, as soon as the paint is burnt off, rain and snow will add to that, completing the effect. Anyway, a great tutorial for a usually fairly complex effect!
If only there were a fog machine small enough to fit in the Sherman to make it look like it’s smouldering. Even though it’s not the look your going for, I thought it would be cool to be recently destroyed
I would like to see a model, like let's say a KV-1 with many richochets marks on the turret or something similar like you see on photos. But richochets are in general is fine, battle damage just looks awesome.
What would have made this perfect is burn marks on the end of the barrel as the turret burning would have come out of the barrel. I also think lowering the barrel would have given a better "destroyed" look
Hey Andy, great video (as they always are!) Is there anyway in which I could contact you to send you a picture of a panzer model? I’m in need of some help / advice Cheers
A sabot round is about 30mm for a 120mm round so the hole would need to be only just over 1mm for 1:35 scale. That might actually be a bit difficult to see on the model so maybe go with a HEAT round which while still very small allows you to model damage around the entry hole such as burn scars, blasted stowage bins and molten streaks radiating away from the actual hole a bit like a 'wagon wheel'.
decal setting fluid, markfit or microset. apply decal, then decal setting fluid. paint clear matte overall before weathering. alternatively you can try painting the decal spot with clear gloss first, then decal, then clear matte. some of the shine is the decal not setting down on a matte color (silvering).
@@powertothebauer296 Thank you. I will try avoiding to soak the decals, I actually had a problem with decals on an older kit because the decals would not stick.
Cool rust. But flame from that hole, couldn't do so much fire damage to the turret. Usually the fire would go through commander copula, leaving small damage. Remember. Exteriors of tanks are flame resistant. It's only a steel. That stuff inside a tank is flammable.
That's not correct. Once a tank is fully involved with fire it actually glows cherry red, the steel armour is weakened and the tank is a complete write off. The fire is usually initially fuelled by the propellant in the ammunition it carries and this burns intensely hot but for a fairly short duration, it then causes the actual interior contents of the tank to burn, the fuel, oil, paint, grease and unfortunately the crew too, the HE ammo carried would also cook off and if this happened to enough HE rounds at the same time the result was totally disassembled tanks. The end result is a tank completely devoid of paint ,external stowage , wooden tool handles and rubber and glowing cherry red for quite some time after combustion. Tanks fitted with torsion bar or Christie type suspension often appeared to sit down on their bellies and this was due to the spring steel suspension arms and bars softening to the point they could no longer support the weight of the vehicle, this in conjunction with the loss of rubber off the roadwheel rims makes the destroyed tank appear much lower than normal, they were in essence almost sitting on their belly plates. British Sherman crews were dismayed to come across glowing tanks at night on the Goodwood battlefield in Normandy. Quite often there was no indication of the remains of the unfortunate crew, they had been reduced to ash which had mingled and coalesced with that of the internal fittings of the tank itself. A bloody horrible way to go and one of the reasons why lots of British tank crews preferred to go into action with all hatches actually ajar or even fully open, that way one even non penetrating hit and they were quite sensibly out of there because there's another round coming as soon as the enemy loader is "up".
![PANZER IV fighting in winter - Part 2 - 1/35 TAMIYA - Tank Model - [ Painting weathering ]](/img/n.gif)
Andy is the Bob Ross of scale modeling.
And I mean that it a totally positive light, I think Bob Ross is a bad ass
'Add a few happy little rust marks'
So is luke towan
No offense taken. I loved watching Bob Ross paint "happy little clouds"! Thanks for watching.
True enough. Different subject matter, but both are really good at just knowing what color, medium, and technique to use next!
You took what is one of the more difficult, complex effects to duplicate and broke it down into logical (I won't say easy) steps. Excellent tutorial!!!
Thank you
Always the best, Andy...No wasted time like some modelers do. No 15 minutes of useless chatter, just down to earth tutorials.
Andy, I want to thank you for all the time and effort you have put into making your videos. Not only have your videos helped me to improve my modeling skills and brought me a great deal of joy, but you have also helped me to get really excited and passionate about modelling again.
Your videos are so enjoyable to watch and you have such a wonderful personality and way of going about things. You would be an awesome guy to have a beer with! Keep up the great work and I'm sure your channel will continue to grow and grow!
PS. I bought one of your "mediocre modelling club" tshirts! Can't wait to get it.
Thank you I’m glad you enjoy the videos thanks again for watching.
Only thing i would change is to remove the tools and stuff, that would of been scavenged by someone. Same for the 30cal hull machine gun
Good point!
in a big fire like that it would have warped the weapon receivers. everything on it would be a total loss.
You see in real life during an ammunition fire, it gets hot enough to warp steel, everything would be a total loss, the hull mg would be a loss, and the crew would be everywhere, they’d probably just seal it up and push it aside to make room for other tanks.
@@pickle4422 also ammo would cook off causing the turret to fly off
I'd just put the Tracks of my Panther off
It were Plastic Tracks so i just gonna say someone has stolen them 🤷🏻♂️
Great video Andy, you have helped me get excited again at modelling after a 40+ year hiatus, thank you so much mate!
You are a real professional Andy! Thank you very much for sharing your art with us.
Hi Andy!!! Thx a lot for your wonderfull job! Let's have a thankfull remembrance to all the tankers killed in their tanks, especially in Normandy, victims of the hidden 88's. Here in France, we don't forget them. Thx again.
Great detailed paint job on the M4A1,as usual, thanks Andy.
I heard the crew was able to escape, so good news.
I have wanted to learn these tips for modeling. I am building trumpeter's Waffenträuger so this could be used to make some details mimicking combat damage.
Great guide Andy. I've scene this technique demonstrated in magazines and model technique books before, but its great to see you perform the finish in realtime as it makes the process much easier follow.
Very good model, always wanted to do a burn out tank, but I didn't know how until now.
Thanks Andy!
Another great job Andy! Love watching your builds. Your a master modeler.
Other modeling channels use rediculous compared to this, with the same results. I'm glad I came to your channel, I've learned many methods from these videos. Many thanks from Montana, keep it up Andy!
Brilliant tutorials Andy, particularly the rust effects
Hi Andy, well you have done another piece of Master Modelling, this is fantastic. I have said before I look forward to all your videos, well done mate. Les
That was pretty damn amazing sir. The only thing I would have done different is air brushed a black base from the intense carbon burn.
14:55: "Because the paint was burned up, it starts to rust up", the fire in itself will cause the tank rusting. Fire is a kind of fast oxidation, which is rusting.
I just heated up a brass round out the Tamyia flak 36 88 kit and picking the surrounding edges with my needle nose tweezers, I used the extra thin tamyia glue to kinda melt up n soften the edges then picked them out it looks great
Thank You, that was very informative.
I'm about to start a Burnt out T34.
Cheers. 😄🏴🇬🇧
You are the best model teacher ^^
I recently finished a Sherman and a put sandbags on the front of it. Sandbags were used as additional armor from panzerfausts
Looks good enjoyed the posting and hope to see what next is in store for this model I bet it will be something great .....
Hi Andy, luv you work. I have noticed that you do not paint the tail lights on AFV's. Would the view ports on the commanders hatch have rust etc as they are made of glass.
Awesome work! Love the result. Thank you Andy, it give me some helpful hints about some things i want to do.
excellent video. superb weathering effects
Nice tutorial. Thanks Andy.
thank you. we needed this
That is some serious food for thought, thank you as always Andy it looks fantastic
Makes me want to give that a try, Thanks Andy
Great tutorial of techniques, Andy. Being an old tanker I can't help but wonder about those two closed hatches on the bow-guess they didn't get out.
Wow. The multiple layers and techniques really look, well, realistic. I would char or remove the wooden handled tools.
Wowzers thanks for the new rust technique
You've inspired me Andy. Definitely going to try this technique!!!
As always, enjoyable vid, Full of useful tips. 👍
I love your channel it's really great
Great video thanks for the tutorial!
Very good Andy, looks real man! Good job 👍!
Nice job done! Andy. Quick question, do you need to put a layer of clear coat after all the job is done to protect the weathering effect?
Fantastic videos you make. Could you perhaps make the new takom sturmtiger with full interior? Loved your Tamiya, it was great inspiration for my own build
Thank you!! This Most be the first tutorial i have seen on how to destroy my model
What type of sponge do you use for adding the effects? There's so many different densities just amongst normal household products. What is your "go-to" sponge please?
Awesome topic. Much appreciated.
Hi Andy. First of all I wish to thank you for sharing such informative and great videos. I'm a very bigginer of using airbrush. (To be exect last monday it was the first time) Can you please tell me how much I need to set air pressure to paint with Valleyo air paint?. I need to change air pressure setting if I need to paint fine lines or bigger surface?
Once again, thanks a lot.
I just bought a 350 scale trumpeter Roma model, I haven't done models in like 7 years, but it's coming along nicely. I want to do a diorama of her in dry dock, but no idea how or where to start.
If i were you i would start with the building the drydock.
Why not to use a drill bit and Dremel? And before that you should add some thickness on armor at inside. Painting looks good.
I have dusted a fine dust on wet paint, with a wash it looked like blisters of paint
Just rewatched this tutorial and I noticed a little inaccuracy in the explanation of the "real" effects: The tank is not only rusted by sitting out in the elements after burning, but also because of the burning itself. Burning in itself is just one form of oxidation (one of the more agressive ones), so just from the fire and heat, the metal will begin to rust as well. Of course, as soon as the paint is burnt off, rain and snow will add to that, completing the effect.
Anyway, a great tutorial for a usually fairly complex effect!
I like it Andy,Thanks for the Tutorial, I gotta try That on SOMETHING, till next time, God Bless All
I made a home with my Cutter it also works. It also doesnt look too bad
If only there were a fog machine small enough to fit in the Sherman to make it look like it’s smouldering. Even though it’s not the look your going for, I thought it would be cool to be recently destroyed
i think small amount of dry ice coudl work for white smoke
I would like to see a model, like let's say a KV-1 with many richochets marks on the turret or something similar like you see on photos. But richochets are in general is fine, battle damage just looks awesome.
You're awesome Andy! Love your videos! Did you learn from a mentor or are you self taught? Keep up the excellent work!
Very nice! Question, what kind of paint rack is that in the background?
Absolutely amazing, just as always!
is the tank crooked? or is my impression? btw *Ottimo lavoro* :D
End result is stunning!! You make it look easy! Is that the old Italeri M4 a1 76w ? I just built the same 3 weeks ago!!
To me it looks more like the morw recent Tamiya Israeli M1 sherman. Look at te covered headlight at the front. And the later commanders hatch.
Tiger/88mm would've been firing APHE at shermans so unless the fuse failed it certainly wouldn't have gone through the other side :3
You made that look easy.
how would i do it if i were to make an active burn?
Awesome job 👍
Nice burned out vehicle! Would love to see the same on a German armored vehicle too!
What a coincidence youre doing this subject, as our modelling group just started a group build for a destroyed vehicle
It would be awesome to have a diorama of this destroyed tank on a road as a tiger goes around
What would have made this perfect is burn marks on the end of the barrel as the turret burning would have come out of the barrel. I also think lowering the barrel would have given a better "destroyed" look
Where the best place to get a buildable rc tank like the panther you built
At 13:00, is pure awesome.
Excelente trabajo ⚒
looks very good !!!
Can u do ricochet damage on modern MBTs?
looks great! did you apply a clear coat over the acrylics before you added the thinner?
Love the videos my dude
Outstanding!!!
Hey Andy, great video (as they always are!)
Is there anyway in which I could contact you to send you a picture of a panzer model? I’m in need of some help / advice
Cheers
*Hey Andy!* would be awesome if you make a "Destroyed" Maus, with burn marks, bullet roles and exploded parts, but the Maus is still operational!
Maus after completing HT mission 15 :)
It is debated that only one ever saw combat defending the factory it was built in, it was blown up by the crew. (some of that might not be true)
no their large size got it stuck in the trenches
@@modeltankfilms9315 how is this relevant?
Trenches? The Maus is waay bigger than a trench and also... why they would drive over a trench?
On modern day armor would the hole be smaller, since they would use a SABOT round. I'm just wondering,been waiting to knock out a T-72.
yes I think it would be smaller hole
A sabot round is about 30mm for a 120mm round so the hole would need to be only just over 1mm for 1:35 scale.
That might actually be a bit difficult to see on the model so maybe go with a HEAT round which while still very small allows you to model damage around the entry hole such as burn scars, blasted stowage bins and molten streaks radiating away from the actual hole a bit like a 'wagon wheel'.
this channel is great
That Maus in the display.... *me drools*
What was that Sherman hit by that is a neat hole 😆👍
Very good. Andy. I like your video. On this. I'd like to learn more on this. If you will great job
How did you figure out what size of screwdriver to use I’m looking for a 37mm anti tank shell hit into a tank please help
37mm / 35= Xmm
so you'd need a screwdriver around that diameter. If you are working with 1/35 tanks anyway
nice, good job man
Also, what can I use to make a decal matte because I put decals on the vehicle and there is a shine left over from putting the decals on.
decal setting fluid, markfit or microset. apply decal, then decal setting fluid. paint clear matte overall before weathering. alternatively you can try painting the decal spot with clear gloss first, then decal, then clear matte. some of the shine is the decal not setting down on a matte color (silvering).
Thank you, I will be sure to try that.
Paint the vehicle gloss (preferably with a spray or airbrush) apply decals with decal solution let it dry and coat it matt.
@@powertothebauer296 Thank you. I will try avoiding to soak the decals, I actually had a problem with decals on an older kit because the decals would not stick.
A bit sad that you were not able to open the driver and bow gunner hatches......Im pretty sure they would had been eager to get out of a burning tank
There was an escape hatch in the belly, useful if under fire...
I would like to see you build the trupeter 1/35 IS-7.
I understand the American army recovered a lot their knocked out tanks where possible and repaired from parts of other damaged tanks
You could put this in a diorama with a panther driving past on a Normandy road.
Shoot for the stars they said...
I have an addiction and this is my drug
Check out the "Damage & Destruction Modelling Group" on Facebook for more tips and inspiration facebook.com/groups/1838558596360916/
If you look in the display case behind him there is what looks like a panzer viii maus
Any news on the R2D2?
Learned a lot from watching you. Keep it up
just amazing
how a bout a diorama with tiger tank and the German crew examining the damage they did.
Cool rust. But flame from that hole, couldn't do so much fire damage to the turret. Usually the fire would go through commander copula, leaving small damage. Remember. Exteriors of tanks are flame resistant. It's only a steel. That stuff inside a tank is flammable.
Well if the turret gets knocked a bit off then fire might leak out from the turret ring while the ammo is cooking off.
That's not correct.
Once a tank is fully involved with fire it actually glows cherry red, the steel armour is weakened and the tank is a complete write off.
The fire is usually initially fuelled by the propellant in the ammunition it carries and this burns intensely hot but for a fairly short duration, it then causes the actual interior contents of the tank to burn, the fuel, oil, paint, grease and unfortunately the crew too, the HE ammo carried would also cook off and if this happened to enough HE rounds at the same time the result was totally disassembled tanks.
The end result is a tank completely devoid of paint ,external stowage , wooden tool handles and rubber and glowing cherry red for quite some time after combustion.
Tanks fitted with torsion bar or Christie type suspension often appeared to sit down on their bellies and this was due to the spring steel suspension arms and bars softening to the point they could no longer support the weight of the vehicle, this in conjunction with the loss of rubber off the roadwheel rims makes the destroyed tank appear much lower than normal, they were in essence almost sitting on their belly plates.
British Sherman crews were dismayed to come across glowing tanks at night on the Goodwood battlefield in Normandy.
Quite often there was no indication of the remains of the unfortunate crew, they had been reduced to ash which had mingled and coalesced with that of the internal fittings of the tank itself.
A bloody horrible way to go and one of the reasons why lots of British tank crews preferred to go into action with all hatches actually ajar or even fully open, that way one even non penetrating hit and they were quite sensibly out of there because there's another round coming as soon as the enemy loader is "up".
did you know that metal could also rust from heat? (fire)
now make a 5+ tank diorama of burned out shermans and tigers
Like a lonely tiger crew just looking for anything they can use from the just destroyed shermans before dissapearing again into the unknown
This would look good in a diorama with an M32 recovery vehicle or a M26 "dragon wagon".