Wish I knew the trick for countering smearing 40 years ago when I was building dogs with nerikomi slabs. What a mess I made! Aside from the annoyance with myself over this, the video was comforting to watch.
Good tip for the steel wool! I’ve avoided doing stuff like this on my grogged clay because I want it smooth and burnishing smears the colors. Thank you!
Hi Nadja, Thank you for watching. It is a very simple and old technique which I am sure you can do on your work. What makes my work very expensive is my experience, story and quality of work. If you incorporate mishima into your work and keep at it, your work will be very expensive too. Good luck and take care
This is a detailed explanation for you if you want consistent and repeatable results. The simplest way is to just add either metallic oxides like iron or cobalt to your slip by the spoonful, like when you are cooking. Slips are opaque so they need a higher percentage of colorant than a glaze does to get the color you want. Think food coloring in water vs. a milkshake. (note that food coloring is organic and will burn away in the firing so do not use it to color your slips or glazes) Brighter colors or primary colors can be achieved with commercial stains which are expensive and introduce more challenges from temperature and atmospheric changes in the kiln. They look great in the raw state and often will fire out white if you have not done your homework. The easiest way to start is to use other successful potters recipes and techniques. The problem is the results are unpredictable without testing by firing. Slips should be designed for your clay body and temperature that you are firing to. The simplest slip is one made from the clay body that you are using (best if it is white or off white or your pallet of colors will be limited). Dry some of your clay (I use trimmings), the smaller the pieces the better. Break it up and crush the dry clay into small pieces and weigh out some and add your metallic oxides like iron, cobalt and chrome for color. Slips require more colorant than glazes so you can add up to 10%. Mix and add to clean water and allow the clay to slake. Dry clay breaks down to a nice smooth slip in a few minutes (faster the finer the particle size). When the clay has settled and made a smooth slip, pour off the excess water off of the top and stir. Adjust the slip to the thickness that you want by adding a little water at a time and stirring. If there are lumps, run it through a tea strainer then use it in good health. Robin Hopper, a Canadian potter, developed a slip recipe that he called a Universal slip because it would work on any clay at any temperature. I have adjusted and changed it to a new improved slip which I have used on pots fired from cone 06 to 11 successfully.This is the decorating slip that I use now. Try experimenting with different colorants and stains and let me know how it works for you. New Universal Slip: Cone 06-10 (Current GCC Decorating Slips) OM-4 Ball Clay 750.0 EPK/Kaolin 100.0 Custer Feldspar 25.0 Frit 3134 25.0 Silica 100.0 1000.0
1. For Dark Iron add: Red Iron Oxide 160 2. For Dark Blue add: Cobalt Carbonate 50 Manganese Dioxide 20 3. For Green add: Chrome Oxide 40 Cobalt Carbonate 10 4. For White add: Zircopax 200 5. For Black add: Mason 6600 Stain 150 Good luck and have fun experimenting and creating your personal pallette.
Thank you again for this video. I so appreciate your patient manner and all the experience and knowledge you pass on.
Thank you, keep sharing with others, it is a good part of life and important to keep alive.
Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. I have found this very helpful
Thank you for watching, I am very happy to share.
Thank you. This is a completely new technique for me.
You are welcome! Make some beautiful pieces!
Thank you so much for this very informative video. You explain everything so warmly and clearly.
Thank you Lynn for your kind comment.
Keep squeezing clay with a smile on your face.
Wish I knew the trick for countering smearing 40 years ago when I was building dogs with nerikomi slabs. What a mess I made!
Aside from the annoyance with myself over this, the video was comforting to watch.
It took me about 40 years to find the steel wool trick too. I was taught to never work the clay dry so smearing was part of the process.
@@richardmccoll9297 Do you use fine steel wool or the stuff we use to clean our RevereWare pans?
@@laidman2007 I use steel wool (I had it already).
I can just add my thank you to all the others here for such clear teaching.
Thank you
Good tip for the steel wool! I’ve avoided doing stuff like this on my grogged clay because I want it smooth and burnishing smears the colors.
Thank you!
Glad to help!
Thanks for showing the technique. Very nice!
You are very welcome. I am glad to be able to share with you.
Thank you for such a great demonstrative video of the technique. I'm going to try it tomorrow.
Good luck and have fun.
@@richardmccoll9297 Thank you! I tried it, but will try again. I'm not sure my carved lines were deep enough.
@@sharonatseanicstudios9970 Hi Sharon,
Keep practicing and with your experiences the clay will reward you.
Great video!
Thank you and happy holidays ❤
I still like this guy :)
This is the technique I dream of. But it makes your pottery very expensive.
Hi Nadja,
Thank you for watching. It is a very simple and old technique which I am sure you can do on your work.
What makes my work very expensive is my experience, story and quality of work. If you incorporate mishima into your work and keep at it, your work will be very expensive too.
Good luck and take care
Perdonate non conosco bene l inglese...ma l impasto che.mette è ingobbio? Grazie per la.bellezza dei suoi video e la sua generosità ❤❤❤
Beginner here…how do you add color to the slip?
This is a detailed explanation for you if you want consistent and repeatable results. The simplest way is to just add either metallic oxides like iron or cobalt to your slip by the spoonful, like when you are cooking. Slips are opaque so they need a higher percentage of colorant than a glaze does to get the color you want. Think food coloring in water vs. a milkshake. (note that food coloring is organic and will burn away in the firing so do not use it to color your slips or glazes)
Brighter colors or primary colors can be achieved with commercial stains which are expensive and introduce more challenges from temperature and atmospheric changes in the kiln. They look great in the raw state and often will fire out white if you have not done your homework.
The easiest way to start is to use other successful potters recipes and techniques. The problem is the results are unpredictable without testing by firing. Slips should be designed for your clay body and temperature that you are firing to. The simplest slip is one made from the clay body that you are using (best if it is white or off white or your pallet of colors will be limited). Dry some of your clay (I use trimmings), the smaller the pieces the better. Break it up and crush the dry clay into small pieces and weigh out some and add your metallic oxides like iron, cobalt and chrome for color. Slips require more colorant than glazes so you can add up to 10%. Mix and add to clean water and allow the clay to slake. Dry clay breaks down to a nice smooth slip in a few minutes (faster the finer the particle size). When the clay has settled and made a smooth slip, pour off the excess water off of the top and stir. Adjust the slip to the thickness that you want by adding a little water at a time and stirring. If there are lumps, run it through a tea strainer then use it in good health.
Robin Hopper, a Canadian potter, developed a slip recipe that he called a Universal slip because it would work on any clay at any temperature. I have adjusted and changed it to a new improved slip which I have used on pots fired from cone 06 to 11 successfully.This is the decorating slip that I use now. Try experimenting with different colorants and stains and let me know how it works for you.
New Universal Slip: Cone 06-10
(Current GCC Decorating Slips)
OM-4 Ball Clay 750.0
EPK/Kaolin 100.0
Custer Feldspar 25.0
Frit 3134 25.0
Silica 100.0
1000.0
1. For Dark Iron add:
Red Iron Oxide 160
2. For Dark Blue add:
Cobalt Carbonate 50
Manganese Dioxide 20
3. For Green add:
Chrome Oxide 40
Cobalt Carbonate 10
4. For White add:
Zircopax 200
5. For Black add:
Mason 6600 Stain 150
Good luck and have fun experimenting and creating your personal pallette.
🌹🙏👍🤗