Great install, and a good video! I have 2 things to add for folks looking for 6.2 info. I am not sure of the break year, but the older 6.2's had a spin on filter mounted in that location. My 83 has the spin on, my 86 has the box style filter...so the break is in between there somewhere. If you can find one, you could crib the parts out of it. Just a thought. 2nd. I got tired of swapping the mechanical fuel pumps, got a rash of bad ones a few years ago. So, I went and found the frame mounted electric fuel pump they used for the 1st couple years of the 6.5 Litre. It is ACDELCO EP158. It is a 3/8" in and out. I wired it in using a fuse and a relay so that it kicks on when the key is in Run only. I mounted it on the frame, toward the front of the cab, and re routed the fuel lines from it to the inlet side of the STANADYNE filter housing. Now, when I change the fuel filter, I crack the bleeder and turn on the key. After a few seconds, the fuel comes spurting out and I turn the key off, close the bleeder and everything is bled up. The 1 time I ran it out of fuel, I then pulled the return line off of the injector pump and turned the key back on until fuel came out of it. Reinstalled the return line and cranked it over with the pedal on the floor for 10-15 seconds and she lit right off. I am going to be doing this to my 83 as well, because it is SOOOO worth it! Cheers!
The original GM fuel filter bracket has a bleeder valve on the top. It also has a sticker that says: NOTICE. REPLACEMENT FILTER MUST BE FILLED WITH CLEAN DIESEL FUEL BEFORE INSTALLATION OR ENGINE WILL STALL OR WILL NOT EVEN START
I have a racor 500fg2 fuel filter setup on my 6.2, starts up 1 1/2 cranks any weather either when it’s 30 degree out or 70 always a solid starting motor
Thanks for the info love it. I have a 89 surburan 6.2 4x4. That has been in my family since it was brand new. It was rolled over in mileage and has 80k again on it. Love this truck.
great video, love my 6.2 89 suburban, loss of the water in fuel sensor would not bother me but loss of the fuel heater i would think would make it harder to start in the winter, maybe not in a garage, but my never sees the inside of a garage, i do use the block heater. Home Depot has a screw on heating oil filer with a gauge and bleed screw someone else used, also thinking about upgrading to an electric pump but would probably have to regulate the pressure down to the 5 psi region
So I have an 86 blazer. I never have a hard time trying to start it, but once it's warmed up and been driven more than 30 minutes and then turned off, it's a living nightmare to get it started again. My battery will literally almost die before it starts. I usually have to let it completely cool down before trying to start it again. Any possible idea whata going on?
About 3:03 ya said after pressurized the fuel tank 3-4lb psi, cranked it over about 10 seconds and "sputtered a little bit"- Where did it sputter fuel? Did ya have the bottom of the filter cracked or is that to release condensation water? Could ya replace filter without the pressuring the tank? Good tip on green wire, glow plugs ⚡👍⚡ thanks for sharing
Nice job! I also had lots of issues with the stock Standadyne fuel filter system so I replaced mine with a new Stanadyne FM100 around three years ago. It has a hand primer that works wonderfully. Also has a heater option that plugged right to the stock connector. Probably cost more but works great.
+Jack Lope No it doesnt since that part of the harness is unplugged. This filter has a water drain petcock on the bottom of it so you could drain off water if you wanted to, but I havent had a problem with it at all
+Brsndon Autry Theres only two hoses you have to deal with. The bigger one in the old cartridge filter goes to the tank and then the smaller one goes into the valley to the injection pump
Ryan, I just wanted to know what you did with the electrical that went to the organial canister filter housing. It had a water sensor , heater among other things. Did you just abandon the old electrical? If you can send me a Email I would like to chat a bit about this.
+Alan Curtis I do not know the part numbers for the fittings. They should be readily available at home depot lowes or any auto parts stores, theyre just barb fittings with a NPT thread
Did you keep it in the stock hybrid 12/24 volt system or did you just convert to 12 volt? It sounds like its best to keep it in the hybrid 12/24 than converting over just to save the hassle. Nice restore on this old CUCV by the way.
Ratkill9000 I cant seem to find a 24v starter that will last more than a couple months. I think im going to convert it to 12v so I can use a more reputable starter.
disconnected glow plugs so that it would just crank over easy. Glow plugs are a large electrical load, I didnt want to fry my starter running low voltage. At that point i just wanted the system to prime but not try and start
Great install, and a good video! I have 2 things to add for folks looking for 6.2 info.
I am not sure of the break year, but the older 6.2's had a spin on filter mounted in that location. My 83 has the spin on, my 86 has the box style filter...so the break is in between there somewhere. If you can find one, you could crib the parts out of it. Just a thought.
2nd. I got tired of swapping the mechanical fuel pumps, got a rash of bad ones a few years ago. So, I went and found the frame mounted electric fuel pump they used for the 1st couple years of the 6.5 Litre. It is ACDELCO EP158. It is a 3/8" in and out. I wired it in using a fuse and a relay so that it kicks on when the key is in Run only. I mounted it on the frame, toward the front of the cab, and re routed the fuel lines from it to the inlet side of the STANADYNE filter housing. Now, when I change the fuel filter, I crack the bleeder and turn on the key. After a few seconds, the fuel comes spurting out and I turn the key off, close the bleeder and everything is bled up. The 1 time I ran it out of fuel, I then pulled the return line off of the injector pump and turned the key back on until fuel came out of it. Reinstalled the return line and cranked it over with the pedal on the floor for 10-15 seconds and she lit right off. I am going to be doing this to my 83 as well, because it is SOOOO worth it!
Cheers!
Nonn
a UdBidness 84 must be the first year, my '84 had a box filter.
Can you add a fuel pump like fass 150
@@FCFordLord my '84 is box...why all the cucv was box(84-86) then factory went back to spin on.
@@williamwimberly9901 no, the pressure and flow is too high.
Man keep them coming I have 84 k5 that I love and just now getting where I can work on it. This video help a lot thanks for the part numbers
please keep making videos on 6.2s like this its super great and helpful
Thanks buddy! I'll be making a video on changing the starter pretty soon. Any suggestions for future videos are much appreciated!
Ryan Boyce Awesome, will do
Ryan Boyce By any chance do you know anything about putting the 6.5 TD injector pump and injectors into a 6.2?
The original GM fuel filter bracket has a bleeder valve on the top.
It also has a sticker that says:
NOTICE. REPLACEMENT FILTER MUST BE FILLED WITH CLEAN
DIESEL FUEL BEFORE INSTALLATION OR ENGINE WILL STALL OR
WILL NOT EVEN START
the problem is that the original filters always leak air
@@RyanBoyce57I think mine is leaking in air. One of the nipples broke off in the housing. Will take make it smoke?
Gotta give this a shot hate having to crank it so much
I have a racor 500fg2 fuel filter setup on my 6.2, starts up 1 1/2 cranks any weather either when it’s 30 degree out or 70 always a solid starting motor
Does it have the fuel heater hooked up and water in oil light??
for future reference the part numbers for the fittings at napa are
2- 3220x8x4
1-90542
1-90546
Thanks for the info love it. I have a 89 surburan 6.2 4x4. That has been in my family since it was brand new. It was rolled over in mileage and has 80k again on it. Love this truck.
great video, love my 6.2 89 suburban, loss of the water in fuel sensor would not bother me but loss of the fuel heater i would think would make it harder to start in the winter, maybe not in a garage, but my never sees the inside of a garage, i do use the block heater. Home Depot has a screw on heating oil filer with a gauge and bleed screw someone else used, also thinking about upgrading to an electric pump but would probably have to regulate the pressure down to the 5 psi region
Ive had no issues starting down to about 15 degrees with this setup
So I have an 86 blazer. I never have a hard time trying to start it, but once it's warmed up and been driven more than 30 minutes and then turned off, it's a living nightmare to get it started again. My battery will literally almost die before it starts. I usually have to let it completely cool down before trying to start it again. Any possible idea whata going on?
Sean, from what I have heard, it's just a bolt on procedure and they should be completely interchangeable.
What about the drain Hose What did you do to it?
About 3:03 ya said after pressurized the fuel tank 3-4lb psi, cranked it over about 10 seconds and "sputtered a little bit"- Where did it sputter fuel? Did ya have the bottom of the filter cracked or is that to release condensation water? Could ya replace filter without the pressuring the tank? Good tip on green wire, glow plugs
⚡👍⚡ thanks for sharing
I got ya "sputtered" as in running rough idle 🤘
Nice job! I also had lots of issues with the stock Standadyne fuel filter system so I replaced mine with a new Stanadyne FM100 around three years ago. It has a hand primer that works wonderfully. Also has a heater option that plugged right to the stock connector. Probably cost more but works great.
+triumphrider9396 Does it work with the "water in fuel" light?
+Jack Lope No it doesnt since that part of the harness is unplugged. This filter has a water drain petcock on the bottom of it so you could drain off water if you wanted to, but I havent had a problem with it at all
+Jack Lope On my FM100, I ordered it with the WIF sensor and the factory harness plugs right into it.
triumphrider9396
Hey, good to know. Thanks!
I know this is a old video but what is the filter housing number and the fuel filter number
I need some help on my k5 blazer it’s got 6.2L in it
Way easier way, just fill the fuel filter up with fuel screw it on and it fires right up.
What did you do with all the wires and stuff that went to the original factory filter?
when you did this what hoses go where im lost im bought the the parts to do it but my hoses are small
+Brsndon Autry Theres only two hoses you have to deal with. The bigger one in the old cartridge filter goes to the tank and then the smaller one goes into the valley to the injection pump
+Ryan Boyce i figured it out thanks im glad you posted this cid veey helpful and with posting the part numbers
I changed my fuel filter on my 1988 Chevy 6.2 engine and the new one leeks I put the old one on don't leek why how do I stop leek?
Dawn davis Thats why I made this video. the cartridge type fuel filters are prone to leaking. Follow the instructions in the video
Ryan,
I just wanted to know what you did with the electrical that went to the organial canister filter housing. It had a water sensor , heater among other things. Did you just abandon the old electrical? If you can send me a Email I would like to chat a bit about this.
+william lodato Just unplug it and zip tie it up out of the way.
I know this is old but do u know the part number for the hose fittings
+Alan Curtis I do not know the part numbers for the fittings. They should be readily available at home depot lowes or any auto parts stores, theyre just barb fittings with a NPT thread
+Alan Curtis just buy your filter and base and just go to the store and try and find the ones that will screw in
so what is the part # for the fuel filter base and filter want to do this on my 95, 6.5
4309
Unrelated but, where did you get the wiring harness? I wanna rewire my 84 and it's hard finding wiring harness replacements for a diesel
Might need a new lift pump if it's that weak
Nice CUCV
hi I have the same problems how much is it
less than 40 bucks if i recall
Did you keep it in the stock hybrid 12/24 volt system or did you just convert to 12 volt? It sounds like its best to keep it in the hybrid 12/24 than converting over just to save the hassle. Nice restore on this old CUCV by the way.
Ratkill9000 I cant seem to find a 24v starter that will last more than a couple months. I think im going to convert it to 12v so I can use a more reputable starter.
Hey have you installed a High amp alternator? 90amp?
Be careful with the napa system when your in cold country . Those lines will freeze your diesel very quickly
nice paint and body work! what color is that?
MAACO
MAACO painted it? Werr there lots of body work needed to paint it? How much for thre entirr paint/body if u dont mind?
Just put one of the squeeze pumps from a boat in easiest way starts instantly
Let me get this straight. You disconnected your glo plugs, to make it start easier!? Funny stuff. "Am I on Candid Camera?" LOL
disconnected glow plugs so that it would just crank over easy. Glow plugs are a large electrical load, I didnt want to fry my starter running low voltage. At that point i just wanted the system to prime but not try and start
Gut-cha. Now I understand. Makes sense.
Manual glow plug switch is the way to go
what did you do with the wires
from the stock housing ?
Tuck em away
What's the name of your spin on filter at the auto store?
Do not run your truck low on fuel. Never run outta fuel you wont need to bleed the system.
pressureing up your tank didn't do much since the whole system had that pressure on it
+Ethan Sherman It did make a difference. I cranked it for a minute before trying to pressurize and it wouldnt fire. Pressurized it, fired right up.
+Ryan Boyce you got me there i gave the fuel system a thought and the pressure would bleed the injection lines themselves
why not just fill the fuel filter up before you install it?
Todd Hayslett I did
Wow, all that time and $ and all you needed to do was replace a couple of O rings...😂😆😅...don't do this fellas, this is amateur hour stuff
What what did you do with the drain line from the original fuel filter housing?