Hello again Rob, i forgot to mention that when it comes to oil tanks, i always remove them and i get my friend to put his boot on the tank and i put in a lance in the tank and steam clean the oil tank out with truck wash and then a hot rinse with the heat at about 140F. If he doesn't put his boot on the tank, the pressure of the lance will blow the oil tank away. The crap that comes out of some of the oil tanks i have cleaned was unreal. When you steam clean with very hot water, the oil tank will dry itself. I always shine a flashlight in the tank to check all the crud has gone and i always lance from the top and bottom of the oil tank to make sure all dirt and crud has been removed. Cheers.
That sounds like a good idea, but I don't have access to stuff like that. I have used Kerosene to clean out my oil tanks for years and it works great. Kerosene eats that sludge right up and the tank is spot less when I am done with it. I am meticulous with cleaning stuff like this, I get it until I can drink the water that comes back out of it, then i dry it out with a heat gun and air hose, and then fill it back up with oil. Has worked for me for over 25 years now.
Hello Rob, That gas tank of yours is off a 1967 BSA B44Victor Roadster as they were called in England or Shooting Star as they were known in America. Different decals for different markets. The plastic gas tank badges with one screw hole were for 1967 C25 250 Barracuda as well as the Victor Roadster/Shooting Star 441. 441 gas tank and side panels were gel coated peony red for 441 and gel coated Nutley blue for the 250 models. It looks like you have the side panel off a 1967/68/69 441 and a oil tank side cover off a 1969 441. The 1969 models on the side panels were gel coated Bushfire orange for 1969 and in 1970 a steel side panel painted black and a short oil neck and no outer cover at the oil tank which was also painted black and both the side panel and oil tank had decals on them. BSA would not have fitted a gas tank from two years earlier than the bike and my guess is the dealer swopped these parts out before the bike was sold so he could grab a new steel tank or it was a customer request and he had the parts. In 1968 the gas tank is still fibreglass and is basically the same tank as a 1967 but the tank badges on a 1968 model on both 250 and 441 get the new two screw die cast badges and neither badge will fit the other tank. On the steel tank for 1969 and 1970 the two screw die cast badge was retained but the color scheme on the badge was changed every year i.e. 1968/69/70. I have stripped many of those brake plates down and before stripping, i undo the two brake cam nuts which are 9/16 unf as it is easier to undo them while they are still on the bike. I scribe T on the top shoe and B on the bottom shoe so that the shoes go back as took off. I degrease and clean the shoes in degreaser and a hot wash and dry in the over and a bead blast and they are good to go. What i do with the cam spindles is to wash the plate and then in the oven and crank it right up, and you can usually draw them out from the back side. If you do press out, screw the nut back on so that it protects the end of the spindle as it is hollow and is easily flattened. If you need to remove the air scoop gauze, DO NOT screw the very small BA screws out cold as they will snap, when the plate is in the oven and it is very hot, they usually will screw out. If you do break one, the only way to remove it is to spark erode it out. When setting up the front brake, push both brake levers so that they are on with the rod off and then adjust the rod so it fit's with both levers on and that's how you set up the front brake. I hope this info was of some use to you and me writing all this makes me think i need to get out more. Happy new year from England U.K. Cheers.
Thank for all the information, but I have to disagree with you on some points. My research show (and the 1969 parts book backs up what other "experts" have told me), that I have the correct stuff for my bike including the single screw tank badge. I do know that my tank and side covers were repainted at one time by the original owner because he did not like the orange color. I am probably just going to leave it the color it is for now, maybe I'll repaint it in the future. As I have learned over the many years of restoring British bikes, there were no hard and fast rules of how these things were built, and/or year switch overs to other parts. Happy New Year from USA and I hope you and your family had a Merry Christmas.
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I had a blue 68 Starfire 50+ years ago. I remember it as a pretty nice bike.
Thanks for posting, very enjoyable. My original center cases (DC 146xx B25S) were black. Never knew if it was factory or not.
Hello again Rob, i forgot to mention that when it comes to oil tanks, i always remove them and i get my friend to put his boot on the tank and i put in a lance in the tank and steam clean the oil tank out with truck wash and then a hot rinse with the heat at about 140F. If he doesn't put his boot on the tank, the pressure of the lance will blow the oil tank away. The crap that comes out of some of the oil tanks i have cleaned was unreal.
When you steam clean with very hot water, the oil tank will dry itself. I always shine a flashlight in the tank to check all the crud has gone and i always lance from the top and bottom of the oil tank to make sure all dirt and crud has been removed. Cheers.
That sounds like a good idea, but I don't have access to stuff like that. I have used Kerosene to clean out my oil tanks for years and it works great. Kerosene eats that sludge right up and the tank is spot less when I am done with it. I am meticulous with cleaning stuff like this, I get it until I can drink the water that comes back out of it, then i dry it out with a heat gun and air hose, and then fill it back up with oil. Has worked for me for over 25 years now.
Hello Rob, That gas tank of yours is off a 1967 BSA B44Victor Roadster as they were called in England or Shooting Star as they were known in America. Different decals for different markets.
The plastic gas tank badges with one screw hole were for 1967 C25 250 Barracuda as well as the Victor Roadster/Shooting Star 441. 441 gas tank and side panels were gel coated peony red for 441 and gel coated Nutley blue for the 250 models. It looks like you have the side panel off a 1967/68/69 441 and a oil tank side cover off a 1969 441.
The 1969 models on the side panels were gel coated Bushfire orange for 1969 and in 1970 a steel side panel painted black and a short oil neck and no outer cover at the oil tank which was also painted black and both the side panel and oil tank had decals on them.
BSA would not have fitted a gas tank from two years earlier than the bike and my guess is the dealer swopped these parts out before the bike was sold so he could grab a new steel tank or it was a customer request and he had the parts.
In 1968 the gas tank is still fibreglass and is basically the same tank as a 1967 but the tank badges on a 1968 model on both 250 and 441 get the new two screw die cast badges and neither badge will fit the other tank.
On the steel tank for 1969 and 1970 the two screw die cast badge was retained but the color scheme on the badge was changed every year i.e. 1968/69/70.
I have stripped many of those brake plates down and before stripping, i undo the two brake cam nuts which are 9/16 unf as it is easier to undo them while they are still on the bike.
I scribe T on the top shoe and B on the bottom shoe so that the shoes go back as took off.
I degrease and clean the shoes in degreaser and a hot wash and dry in the over and a bead blast and they are good to go.
What i do with the cam spindles is to wash the plate and then in the oven and crank it right up, and you can usually draw them out from the back side.
If you do press out, screw the nut back on so that it protects the end of the spindle as it is hollow and is easily flattened.
If you need to remove the air scoop gauze, DO NOT screw the very small BA screws out cold as they will snap, when the plate is in the oven and it is very hot, they usually will screw out.
If you do break one, the only way to remove it is to spark erode it out.
When setting up the front brake, push both brake levers so that they are on with the rod off and then adjust the rod so it fit's with both levers on and that's how you set up the front brake.
I hope this info was of some use to you and me writing all this makes me think i need to get out more.
Happy new year from England U.K. Cheers.
Thank for all the information, but I have to disagree with you on some points. My research show (and the 1969 parts book backs up what other "experts" have told me), that I have the correct stuff for my bike including the single screw tank badge. I do know that my tank and side covers were repainted at one time by the original owner because he did not like the orange color. I am probably just going to leave it the color it is for now, maybe I'll repaint it in the future. As I have learned over the many years of restoring British bikes, there were no hard and fast rules of how these things were built, and/or year switch overs to other parts. Happy New Year from USA and I hope you and your family had a Merry Christmas.
Ahh, the classic only-lock braking system.