Intercooler Bleed and Fill | ATS-V CTS VSport CT6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- A lack of coolant in your intercooler can result in a loss of horsepower due to higher intake temps. Logging your car you can watch manifold air temps or IAT2 on the CTS VSport to see how hot the air is going into the engine. Shouldn't be much higher than 170 degrees C. Excessive bubbles will contribute to heat soak. This how-to covers the process of bleeding the system using the all-in-one kit from TapOut Tuning.
Get the kit here:
www.tapouttuning.com/product/...
Additional note, be sure to turn your bleed valve sideways before putting engine cover back on.
This procedure is very similar on. The 3.0TT engine of the CT6.
Other tools you may want:
Heat Gun: amzn.to/3gzFrWB
Step Drill Bit (Unibit): amzn.to/3hGvwzC
Hose Clamp Pliers Type 1: amzn.to/3lrbXgZ
Hose Clamp Pliers Type 2: amzn.to/3luyPMT
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Great vids as always. Thanks Danial!
Good video Daniel keep it going!
Excellent video!
Great video... Made install every easy
Thanks i will check out my Xts v
For extra thermal conductivity, one can add Water Weter or Royal Purple Ice. Also, make sure to wash coolant off of the rubber belts, they aren’t good friends.
Thanks!! Was thinking the very same thing
Daniel please show us how and what is the easiest way to clean the throttle body with amsoil power foam , CRC turbo cleaner, seafoam ect.
Sea foam got a good review on project farm. I haven’t tried it yet though!
Do not open the bleeder valves with the pump on. You're going to just suck air into the bleeder valves. Only start the pump with the shrader valve open and coolant in the funnel. Open the bleeder valve, open the shrader valve (with a funnel and coolant attached) and then shut them when coolant starts to leak out. Then you probably never have to touch them again.
SIncerely,
Someone who learned this the hard way.
Hmmm... Love the video. Love the pump switch. How about using it to assist with a heat soaked intercooler and add another switch to turn on the fans???
Agreed that’s a good use for it. Haven’t looked into the fan mod though.
Years back people were saying the coolant pump only runs when boost is detected and people were wiring up switches to activate it yourself.
Do we know what the case actually is? I know that in HP tuners there’s settings based on temperature so I figured that’s the likely element that determines pump ops.
@@JetFuelOnly Never heard what the answer was. I would think boost because if it was temp it would run all the time?
Do you feel a difference?
Just so you know, putting an expansion tank in the system will make the system self-bleeding. The parts cost $65 (there's a thread on the Cadillac Forum if you're interested), but if you've got more money than sense, Caddy Issues sells a kit for a $200 premium.
Haha thanks. I’m well aware. This was before people were doing expansion tanks on these cars.
@@JetFuelOnly Gotcha. Wasn't sure if you were staying up with the various Cadillac developments. You should check out the new carbon fiber seatbacks that Street Driven Performance just made! They're expensive, but they look sick.
@EliteMacFreak yeah they look nice, glad someone finally started making those.
Would be great to see a kit developed for the CT6-V BlackWing.. My car was 2 full quarts low on oil from the factory so wonder how low coolant might be.
Someone has reported back that the process is essentially the same. Buy the kit or put one together and make it happen!
I recently got a 2019 CT6 V Blackwing recently and I just came across this video, gotta look into this.
I have question Daniel .. the clear hose you installed.. i can see there is 2 hoses .. can i install the hose randomly in any one of these two hoses shown?
I’m going to say... it should be the front one because that’s the one that leads closest to the bleed valve.
Hey there, I just picked up a ats v a couple weeks ago and it has this kit installed. I saw in the clear hose that mine has foam like bubbles. Not sure if I have to bleed it?
Foam isn’t too bad but more than say a half inch to an inch of foam is just like a big bubble.
So i rigged up something that works good for keeping the swivel in check
But i cant post a pic???? Put large vise grips around it this tie strap to mount for air cleaner base
Yeah no pics here unfortunately. Thanks for the tip though!
So if I can hear my pump running, do I need worry about bleeding the intercooler??
Depends on what it sounds like an how long it runs. And empty intercooler will run the pump for awhile before stopping. Same with big air gaps. If you just have bubbles it will sound like mine, gurgling and the smooth running
It's odd that air bubbles seem endless in the system. I wonder if there is a design flaw where air gets trapped in the system. Why not replace the entire black hose with the clear one? Not sure why everyone uses Black hoses to begin with I'm assuming they hold their shape around corners when under heat and the clear ones kink or crimp in the same heat situations...
Yeah weird right? I think I just didn’t want to change the stock look much. It’s a cop out I know....
Will it be easier just to hook up a switch to the inner cooler fuse
That’s basically what we did right? Schmidty tuning can also program the ECU to run it in service mode.
Do you do your final burp with the pump on or off? When I burp it running vs off, I'm talking a couple ounces of fluid difference. If I close the bleeder while running, I'm sure it's packed full, but as it heats up am I putting undo pressure against every seal?
I recently found it would swallow the most fluid at the end with the valve half pressed and pump on.
@JetFuelOnly agreed, I'm worried on my CTSV if I pack it full, then it expands in stressing the intercooler bricks etc, since there's no expansion from. It's really a couple ounce difference only.
I doubt it’s an issue. Dealer would use a vacuum to get it completely air free
I’ve noticed that my boost comes and goes, when I left for work and I stepped on it I can get 70-80kpa, but then after a while of driving I’ll step on it and only get like 10kpa… does this sound like an intercooler problem? Literally every one of your videos has happened to my car so thanks for making them
Yeah it sounds like the car is warming up and not getting enough charge cooling. A large majority of owners have air in their intercooler loop. I would definitely check that first.
Does the installed kit affect the warranty?
You wire up something and that part fails the dealer isn’t going to warranty it. If you are worried about it, don’t install the switch the lid. Just plug it in and connect to power. Remove when done with procedure
Has anyone tried to go e85 with zzp flex fuel kit?
There's at least one that I know of at e40 right now, testing and may go up to e50 here soon. He's on all 3 Facebook CTS VSport groups
My fuse box looks different than yours. I have a 16 vsport premium and it says 53 for cool pump. Has anyone else seen this
If 53 works go ahead and use it!
So, I'm thinking you still have bubbles in the system at the end of the video because you are barely filling up that big funnel they give you. The reason it is so big is for liquid weight which equals pressure out (into the system).. The more coolant you have in it, the more weight it has to push (psi) into your system. Maybe try it again with someone to help hold the funnel the whole time so it doesn't tip over and spill out coolant everywhere, I recommend a turkey baster once you are ready to remove the funnel, you can get pretty much remove all the coolant out of the funnel before taking it off. If you decide to try this, please leave a comment after you do to let me know how it worked. I bought a cts v sport about 6 months ago with 75k miles and now it has 85k and I'm going through servicing/replacing with new parts, everything in the engine that I think the previous owner never did before and this is something I'm about to do here very soon. Thanks, enjoying your channel, liked and subbed.
I'll take a closer look about the bubbles next time. I've added a hole on the funnel to string it to the hood now. If you plug the funnel, you can remove it and leave the short bit of black tube attached to the bleeder. Then you can "tip" the tube and bleeder over and drain into a small cup. Only a couple ounces will remain in the blacktube/bleeder.
@@JetFuelOnly right on, thanks for the reply.
That's how much the reservoir is supposed to look filled correctly😱 aw man. Mine is half way not completely full. Should i top it off all the way???
Yes. Info in your owners manual. Top part full bottomed part half way (there’s a full cold line)
Any way to tell if this needs to be done or not?
Low boost usually or highly manifold air temps if you have a scanner
@@JetFuelOnly thanks for the reply, great video. Turns out the last shop I went to went ahead and bled it for me. Car runs great just wanted to be sure
Tips from others:
1. Turn bleed valve sideways before re installing engine cover.
2. ?
Nitpicking but there's tools made specifically for removing hoses. They look like funky bent picks. Channel locks can easily damage the rubber hose.
Thanks, the tools for those hoses are very hard to come by. Vendor suggests grinding down a fuel disconnect tool but the standard 90 deg pick was easiest and no damage.
LOL... that Bleed kit is $91... shipping to canada they said was $160. By the time I convert the money I'm essentially paying well over $300 for what is really just a dollar store funnel, $5 worth of hose, and $10 switch, and $1 wood stick. I'll make my own kit this summer I guess it's really a shame how in Canada even though we are next door to he USA the cost of US products is double for us.
Sorry about that! Yeah for us it is a convenience to just buy the whole kit but it’s certainly cheaper to just get the parts separately if you know what to get
I have a 16’ ats v. With the peddle to the floor right at 100mph the car studdars . I’ll left off the peddle and push back to the floor the car goes no problem… could this be the issue that cause the to do that?
I doubt it. Are you getting the full consistent boost you are supposed to?!8 think stock is 12 or 14 PSI.
How about medium throttle under boost. Any hesitation?
I’ll check soon. If I’m not getting the consistent 12-14 psi what could be the issue & how could I go about fixing it?
No hesitation under medium throttle. Only when I mash it to the floor.
@@YEAALAZ Try the bleed and it may help.
Okay. The bleed kit just came in I’m about to try it now.👍🏾
Riding around boost stay at 0… full throttle boost goes to 6-7
Do I have to disconnect the car battery for the fuse box installation ?
Not necessary but it never hurts for 30 seconds of your time
@@JetFuelOnly facts. Thank you.
@@JetFuelOnly do you have the car (on) but not start during the bleeding process or even in accessory mode ?
Accessory mode isn’t necessary when it’s hooked up this way. Justin can program the pump to come on in accessory mode though.
@@JetFuelOnly so basically will I need to hook up the bleed/fill kit (fuse box button ect? ) since the pump does come on in accessory mode but doesn’t stay on though. Assuming I have to keep turn on the accessory mode or will come on once all the bubbles are out ?
hey i am having an issue with the fill valve itself it is leaking
the schrader valve leaks from where it is attached to the intercooler
This has happened to a few people. Sometimes only when you put pressure on it. You can get a new one, some people report that they got the whole upper manifold and then just swapped out the valve.
@@JetFuelOnly do you know where I could by just the valve? Or will I have to replace the whole manifold?
Sorry I didn’t mean whole manifold but it’s a piece of the manifold. This is just how it comes but you can separate the parts. www.worldpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-intake-manifold-vacuum-fitting-12686826
@@JetFuelOnly thank you for the help!! Love the channel 🔥
So what happens in these sealed systems for coolant expansion from heat?
Yeah, not really sure where it’s going except possibly the bleeder valve. But it’s the first thing you want to check with loss of boost or high manifold intake temps.
I actually have an LSA blower on my 69 Chevelle and I was looking into changing my hose routing to help purge air.
@YZFoFittie you just need a reservoir if you don’t have one. A place where the air can go and stay out of the rest of the loop.
I was trying to avoid a reservoir due to space and clutter. I'm going to fab a simple motorcycle size radiator cap onto a piece of 3\4 aluminum pipe and add it to the brick outlet and see if that's enough.
Yeah that will be enough. The LT4 has a similar standpipe I believe
I’d love to buy a cts v sport man but they are so rare
Update I’m shopping Ats v now
I bought a 2014 CTS VSport and absolutely love it. Had it a year. Bone stock premium model and it’s plenty fast for my tastes. I want it to be reliable and last another 100,000 miles. It’s currently at 101,000, I’ve put on the last 10,000 miles.
Keep an eye out for timing issues as the chains stretch in the next 10-20k miles. Change your oil often but expect a $2-3k bill for that when it happens. It’s a flaw of the 3.6 engine
I have a 2017 CT6......does this pertain to that car?
If you have a 3.0 TT yes it does...
No it’s a 2.0t.
Not an issue I believe
Do you think i have to do it regularly?
And is this kit fit my XTS?
The kit should work fine for your car. Not too often but at least once. Then maybe yearly
@@JetFuelOnly thnx man you really help me out with my Cadillac with all your videos .. keep it up ... you are the one
@@JetFuelOnly hi daniel .... my XTS is 2014 vsport >>> as you told me this system will fit my car .. i didn't receive this kit yet but I'm looking at my engine cooling and i think its different >> any advice?
I see. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. Your car has a plug where the fill port is. Instead your car has a filler cap. See page 256 in the 2016 XTS owners manual. It says “charged air coolant bottle and pressure cap.” I would assume you just need to make sure this is at the right level and there’s no bleeding necessary. Wish I had that.
See page 259 for full procedure
Would/Can this apply to STS V ?
Sure!
On the ATS-V and VSpoet the reservoir is only for engine coolant. There is no reservoir for the intercooler’s separate system. On some GM intercooled engines there is a small expansion tube but not on theses two cars.
Oh nice.... glad it’s easier on the STS.
It absolutely baffles me that the XTS VSport comes with a tiny little self-bleeding reservoir (ZZP actually sells them for like $40 for the ATS V and CTS VSport) but the other cars do not, so an XTS Vsport that has proper fluid level will never have air in it. Its the lowest "performance" of the 3 LF3/LF4 cars and I just have to wonder why the other two don't have this.
What is it called on zzp website for the self bleeding reservoir because I can’t find it
@@tjsworld2338 search for "intercooler bleed kit"
Not sure… didn’t see it
I have a question for you. Not related to this video. Do you know how to remove the Shark Fin Antenna?? I want to paint mine Black Chrome but there is no videos on my certain year 2014 on how to remove it?? I don’t want to break it. There is nothing inside the car in the back to pop off and unscrew?? Know how? Have a link? Thank you. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I last heard that the headliner has to be dropped to access the screws holding it in (and the wiring). I can’t confirm first hand knowledge though
Jet Fuel Only yea that’s it. Omg what a pain in the butt! You have to fold your seats down & pop out the liner. I only popped out the back and got my head up there and got to the 10mm screw. It’s a pain holding the liner down and trying to release the two wire clips. But I got it out. Have to be carful you don’t bend your liner. I’m actually painting it now. Thx for looking into it. Appreciate it. If you do this job I highly recommend a light that attaches to your head. I didn’t want to take the whole liner out because of the side air bags back there. I just held it down and worked my head back there. Folding seats down made it a lot easier.
Just did my CTS-VS this morning. My pump sounds like yours, like a dishwasher at the end of a pumping cycle. So frustrating that it can be low on fluid/air trapped, and yet the resevoir shows it's full. I'm giving GM a fail for this design.
The reservoir is not connected to the inner cooler. The reservoir is for the engine coolant. Part of the problem with the inner cooler system is there is no reservoir for bubbles to escape to.