Looking good! I agree, it's a lot of work, but well worth it. The first 1050 that I restored on my channel had a shorted tantalum cap on the flat amplifier board. Also, the 2sc1313 and 2sc1312 transistors on the control amplifier and filter amplifier boards are known to fail. You can replace them with KSC1845 or BC337. All the other transistors in these amps seem to be pretty reliable. The board under the tuner board is the phono stage (A.K.A. equalizer amplifier). The cap values and types are a bit more critical on that board than on the others. Those orange electrolytics are low leakage types. The best replacement for those is the Nichicon UKL series. Feel free to e-mail, if you have any questions, but it's looking like you won't need any help! Love your channel!
My first thought when I see this amount of wiring is that it can't be "well laid out". It must be a sign of that things could have been placed differently to reduce wiring. Also they shield units like the Phono stage and other things, but then wires with signals from those stages runs from those shielded cases and all around the unit. Well on the positive side, this is more serviceable than many of the other "Monster receivers" :-) And eating the elephant one bit at the time as you do is probably the only sensible way to do it. Well done.
No, I wouldn’t do that. If I had to unwrap any, I’d then solder it in. If they are original, these wire wraps last much better than any solder connection.
Actually, I did! I’m rather embarrassed to admit that my two guitars have been hanging on the wall more than they should. I took the acoustic down yesterday and gave it a new home on the sofa. so I have been doodling on and off as the mood takes me. Driving my wife nuts 😊
One thing I didnt see was the "glue" damage to the board, most of the equipment from this era has corrosion on the board cause by glue used to secure the capacitors. over time it dries up and becomes corrosive. That unit seems to be in really good condition. Shame we cannot hear it through YT.
Looking good! I agree, it's a lot of work, but well worth it. The first 1050 that I restored on my channel had a shorted tantalum cap on the flat amplifier board. Also, the 2sc1313 and 2sc1312 transistors on the control amplifier and filter amplifier boards are known to fail. You can replace them with KSC1845 or BC337. All the other transistors in these amps seem to be pretty reliable. The board under the tuner board is the phono stage (A.K.A. equalizer amplifier). The cap values and types are a bit more critical on that board than on the others. Those orange electrolytics are low leakage types. The best replacement for those is the Nichicon UKL series. Feel free to e-mail, if you have any questions, but it's looking like you won't need any help! Love your channel!
Thanks Tony. I really appreciate your comment and offer of help. Keep well, and stay safe.
that is the cleanest testing machine I have ever seen on you-tube nice
👍
Great vid, thanks. Peter
Pleasure
Very well done!
Thanks
My humble thanks for great video!
My pleasure
I have the same unit .... My volume pops in and out ... Didn't think I would even find anyone working on this vintage unit ...thanks
Good luck 🤞
My first thought when I see this amount of wiring is that it can't be "well laid out".
It must be a sign of that things could have been placed differently to reduce wiring.
Also they shield units like the Phono stage and other things, but then wires with
signals from those stages runs from those shielded cases and all around the unit.
Well on the positive side, this is more serviceable than many of the other "Monster receivers" :-)
And eating the elephant one bit at the time as you do is probably the only sensible way to do it.
Well done.
Yes, after many many elephant steaks, I can honestly say that I’m full but satisfied 😊
Pacific Stereo on Tapeheads hates tantalums so he always replaces them with film caps if possible or electrolytics.
"Brilliant"
thanks
To improve reliability would you consider soldering all of the wire wrap connections?
No, I wouldn’t do that. If I had to unwrap any, I’d then solder it in. If they are original, these wire wraps last much better than any solder connection.
Quality Japanice mechanics.
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All these quality caps must be worth a lot of euros ! :-}
That are well worth it.
nice you have a list of all them caps you used ill gladly donate fer a list lol or link to list you used
I’m afraid I did not keep track. Just followed the schematic.
Hi Manuel. Are you keeping all of the replaced parts so we can see them at the end of your restoration?
Some. Others get chucked. I don’t make a point of lining up the dead guys 😊
I bet that's the healthiest it's been for a couple of decades.
I don’t doubt it.
That's all looking fine so far. My real question is: did you practice guitar today?
Actually, I did! I’m rather embarrassed to admit that my two guitars have been hanging on the wall more than they should. I took the acoustic down yesterday and gave it a new home on the sofa. so I have been doodling on and off as the mood takes me. Driving my wife nuts 😊
That's the spirit! But be careful there. Happy wife, happy life :)
😊
One thing I didnt see was the "glue" damage to the board, most of the equipment from this era has corrosion on the board cause by glue used to secure the capacitors. over time it dries up and becomes corrosive. That unit seems to be in really good condition. Shame we cannot hear it through YT.
No glue damage at all, thankfully.
And don’t forget, it’s not only corrosive it’s also conducive that bad glue.
👍
Good tour and diagnostics, love it. Thanks.
Pleasure